image west of our house in Dougherty 

Sailor's delight sunset good weather coming.  It is starting to clear up.  

Finally getting to this post.  IT is 7:30 PM.  I was walking to the shop and saw this lovely sunset.  Sailors delight so we should have a good day tomorrow.  Rain is moving out of here for us, and tomorrow for eastern Iowa.  1.6 inches we got through all this rain.  Some got 3 inches or more.  Drier week next week is what they are predicting.  Then the combines, and semis will be moving.  Enjoy the evening as it is cool out.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Friday Oct 2nd will have 100% rain and a temperature high of 59F(15C)   It looks like rain all weekend long.  We will have similar temperatures, but our nights will not get so cool.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
Just going to write to you to have a good evening.  Better weather is coming for us here in Iowa.  Fall is like tonight, but it is the first of October.  I just can’t believe that.  Day time is getting shorter.  So here we go. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image west of our house in Dougherty 

image from ar.inspiredpencil.com 

Now it is time to plant your garlic 

​Hi this Wed afternoon.  I am posting at this time of the day as I need my mornings to get other things done.  Bookwork, and still have some canning to do.  Plus I am cleaning up or unplanting the wagons.  We had rain showers this morning so stayed in the house.  We haven’t had much rain today.  Looks like tonight we might get some more, but it also looks like around Interstate 80 they are getting lots of rain.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Thursday Oct. 1st looks like rain too but they are warming up for spring and the rain will be good to come every week for them.  As for us, we need to have it stop raining so the farmers can get into the fields to harvest.  Soybeans, and corn are ready when it dries up.  Stay dry, stay comfortable with your temperature, stay safe.
 
I had a gardener ask about growing her own garlic.  It is an easy one to grow and now is the time to plant it.  I suggested Johnny’s Seeds,  and Park Seeds catalogs which you can order online to get some coming.  Both of these company I know growers like me are getting their seeds. 
 
Planting Garlic in the Fall: When, Best Times, and How  Written By:  Robin Sweetser
Do you have your cloves in the ground yet? Garlic is incredibly useful in the kitchen and surprisingly easy to grow in the garden. The best time to plant these tasty bulbs is in the fall. Learn how and when to plant garlic to maximize your harvest!
When to Plant Garlic in the Fall
Fall is traditionally the optimal time to plant garlic in most regions. Planting in the fall—about 3 weeks before the ground freezes—gives the roots a chance to establish without the shoots poking through the soil before winter. A good rule of thumb is to plant after the autumnal equinox in late September, though this can vary slightly based on your local first frost dates. Garlic, like other allium crops, is sensitive to day length and develops underground over the winter, so planting in the fall gives it a head start on the growing season. Come spring, it will be one of the first things to emerge in your garden.
Fall is traditionally the best time to plant garlic in most regions. A good rule of thumb is to wait to plant garlic until after the autumnal equinox in late September.
Garlic Growing Timeline
Season / Month           What to Do
Fall (Sept–Nov)            Plant garlic cloves 2 inches deep, pointy side up. Mulch 5–8 inches deep.
Winter (Dec–Feb)       Garlic stays dormant underground, roots continue to develop.
Early Spring (Mar–Apr)           Shoots emerge through mulch; begin light fertilizing.
Late Spring (May–Jun)            Garlic grows rapidly; water regularly. Cut off scapes to boost bulb growth.
Mid–Summer (Jul)      Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest; watch for leaves turning brown.
Late Summer (Jul–Aug)           Harvest when 1/3 to 1/2 of leaves are brown. Cure bulbs in a shady, ventilated spot.
Fall (Next Year)           Save largest cloves to replant for another harvest cycle.
Planting Garlic in the Fall
Selecting Bulbs
Choosing the right garlic cloves is key to a successful harvest. There are two main types to consider: Hardneck and Softneck.
Hardneck garlic produces a stiff central stalk and typically grows best in cooler climates. It has a more complex flavor and produces larger cloves that are easy to peel. Varieties include Rocambole, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain. Hardneck types also produce scapes, edible flower stalks that can be harvested in late spring.
Softneck garlic is the type most commonly found in grocery stores. It thrives in warmer climates, stores well for longer periods, and is the type usually braided for decorative purposes. Popular varieties include Silverskin and Artichoke garlic.
Avoid using garlic from grocery stores for planting, as these are often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry diseases.
The best source for planting garlic is seed garlic from reputable garden centers, local nurseries, or online suppliers specializing in garlic varieties. Look for disease-free, certified cloves suited to your climate for the best results.
How to Plant Garlic
Garlic is extremely easy to grow, but good soil preparation is necessary if you want to produce the best and biggest bulbs.
Use quality seed garlic and plant several varieties just in case one does poorly. The largest cloves will produce the biggest bulbs. Plant individual cloves, peels intact, pointy end up, 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart.
Mulch 5 to 8 inches deep with seedless straw. Your garlic will form roots but little or no top growth before the ground freezes solid.
Early next spring, your garlic will be ready to grow, sending up tiny green shoots as soon as the ground thaws.
Caring for Garlic Plants
Feed the plants every other week with a liquid fish emulsion fertilizer from when shoots emerge in early spring until approximately June 1. Water is critical during the bulb-forming stage in early summer, so give your plants 1 inch per week, including rainfall.
If you are growing hardneck garlic—the best type for the Northeast—around the summer solstice, your garlic will send up a scape (seed stalk). This should be cut off to encourage the plants to put all their energy into bulb formation.
Leave one or two flower stalks standing to help you decide when to harvest your garlic. About 4 weeks before harvest, the outer wrappers on the garlic bulbs start to dry, so stop watering in July. Too much water at that stage can stain the wrapper or even cause mold.
Garlic Pests and Diseases
Not too many pests bother garlic, but don’t plant it where you have had trouble with wireworms or nematodes. Disease is more of an issue in poorly draining soils. See our Pest & Diseases Pages for more information.
How and When to Harvest Garlic
Harvest your garlic around the end of July or early August, when the lower third to half of the leaves have turned brown and wilted, but the upper leaves are still green.
It can be tricky deciding exactly when to harvest, which is where the flower stalks can come in handy. If the leaves start turning brown and the scapes uncurl and stand up straight, it is time to harvest. Learn more about harvesting garlic.
Storing Garlic
Hang bunches of newly harvested garlic to dry in a cool, well-ventilated, shady spot for 3 to 4 weeks to cure. After the leaves, roots, and outer wrappers are completely dry, brush off any loose soil, trim the roots to 1/4 inch, and cut the tops back to an inch or two above the bulb before storing. Under optimum conditions of near-freezing temps and 65 to 70% humidity, hardneck garlic will keep for 5 months and softneck for 8 months.
Save your biggest cloves to replant for next year. Old-timers say garlic “learns” because it adapts to your growing conditions and improves yearly. Go ahead—plant some garlic this fall!
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to plant garlic?
Garlic is typically planted in the fall, about 4–6 weeks before the first hard frost. This timing allows the cloves to establish roots before winter without producing top growth. In most regions, this means planting garlic in late September through November.
How deep should I plant garlic in the fall?
Plant garlic cloves about 2 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. Space cloves 4–6 inches apart in rows that are 12–18 inches apart. Cover with soil and mulch to protect them from cold temperatures.
When should I harvest garlic planted in the fall?
Garlic planted in the fall is usually ready to harvest in mid- to late summer, around July, depending on your local climate. Harvest when the lower leaves start to turn brown, but the upper leaves are still green. This ensures bulbs are fully developed and will store well
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/planting-garlic-fall
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from inspiredpencil.com 

wagon looks like this when I start

Wagon gets more off of it

plants go into a loader bucket

plants are taken out of the pots and trays 

Finally, you have an empty wagon 

This is what I mean by unplanting or composting the plants.

Happy afternoon.  We had some rain but mostly sprinkles. How about you?  Weather app says lots of rain tonight, Wed. and Wed night and Thursday.  See what happens.  At 5:30 PM the weather map shows green coloring as rain, but it isn’t raining here yet.  Some places will get heavy rain, and there is flood watch in order.  Stay dry, stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Wed. Sept 30th will have a high of 78F(26C) compared to our temperature of64F(17C).  They are warming up and we are cooler down.  Evelyn shared about her peonies. “I have 2 planted and one has a flower for the first time. The other is younger, so might not flower this year.”
Evelyn talked about her blooming roses. “There are lots of rose blossoms on my bushes. They'll be pretty when they open up.”    Spring in the air.  Enjoy your day, stay safe.
 
I have posted pictures of what I mean when I say I am unplanting.  I am taking the plants out of the plastic containers, and we will compost them.  I will have the containers to use for the next season so they will be put into boxes.  Plants don’t look nice, so it is easier to compost them.  When they were nice and green and still growing it was hard to put then into the bucket.  I finished up a wagon this morning.  See how the rain goes for the next couple of days and start on the next wagon.  This still isn’t my favorite thing to do, till I get a wagon emptied then it is a good feeling. 
1. I start off with a full wagon.  They plants don't look so good, so it is easier to clean them up.  When they are green, blooming and growing it is harder.
2. Then the wagon gets more emptied.
3. The plants are put into a loader.  Then Larry will take them over to the compost pile and dump them.
4, I will pull the plants out of the pots and containers.  I will reuse the plastic and the flats.  
5.  Finally, I have an empty wagon.  
How is work coming in your garden?  Always so much clean up and still weeding to do in the fall.  Good luck with all of the fall work. 
Images from Becky Litterer
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from Becky Litterer

image from hyanniscountrygarden.com

spring bouquet from Evelyn McAdam's garden 

When can I transplant my peony?
​
Good evening.  I am changing the time I do my post.  I need to use the time in the morning when I would write these to finish up canning, bookwork, and working out in the greenhouse.  This morning that is what I did, if I post that takes about an hour and more to do this.  So try doing it at early in the evening.  This afternoon worked outside unplanting plants or composting plants.  But I was getting annoyed by those no seems.  They are nasty.  Almost have another wagon emptied,  If it doesn’t rain in the morning, I should get that one done.  Then there are 3 more to do.  Slowly I am getting that done, which isn’t my favorite job.  It was warm out and a little humid temperature being around 70F(21C).  It is forecasted to have Tuesday through Thursday with rain and some of it will be heavy.  There is a flood watch out.  Here we go again.  Rain.  Stay cool, stay dry and of course stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends are enjoying warmer weather as it is spring.  Today is there Sept 29, Tuesday morning at 9:30 AM. High today for them will be 74F(22C) and Evelyn said they are warming up and we are cooling down.  It rained, so spring blooms are coming out.  You see what she picked to bring into the house.  Stay cool, stay safe, and enjoy Spring. 
 
Here are one of the perennials that can be and should be divided or moved in the fall. It goes with the saying do the dividing in the opposite season that it blooms.  If you want to divide peonies fall is the time. 
Signs Your Peony Needs Dividing or Moving
I have a pair of old-fashioned ‘Festiva Maxima’ peonies planted on either side of the entrance to a small fenced-in garden. One blooms happily every year, but the other one hasn’t produced any blossoms for quite a while!
 
Each spring, I scrape away some excess soil from its base, thinking that it may be buried too deeply, but still, no flower buds have formed. Over the years, a tree planted nearby has grown up enough to cast shade on it for a good part of the day. The only way to know what the problem might be is to dig it up.
Was it too deep? Too shady? Too crowded? If only plants could talk…
It does not seem to be overcrowded, and the buds were not buried too deeply, so that just leaves a lack of sunlight as the problem. It needs a new home.
When to Transplant Peonies
September and the fall are the best times to transplant peonies. By then, the peony plants have died back and stored enough food reserves in their roots for the following year. Additionally, moving a peony in early fall allows the new divisions to establish themselves before winter’s cold arrives.
Many folks ask if they can move the peony in the spring. Technically, you can transplant the peony in the spring just as new growth occurs, but it may not bloom well that season.
Quick Steps to Transplant Peonies
Choose a sunny, well-draining location
Dig up the peony carefully, keeping roots intact
Divide roots if desired, ensuring 3 to 5 buds per section
Plant with buds 1½ to 2 inches below soil
Water well and mulch after planting
Gives you some ideas of gardening chores to do this fall.  Good luck with if you have peonies to transplant. 
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/when-and-how-transplant-peonies
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse
 image from hyanniscountry garden.com   also from Evelyn McAdam 

image from fity.club

How do I plant the spring blooming bulbs in the fall?  Here is how. Buy quality bulbs is worth it.

I see a little sun light from behind the clouds.  Will it last?  It was so lovely yesterday with the sun and mild temperatures.  I must tell you, I worked outside but I also just sat in the chair and enjoyed the outdoors.  I am unplanting plants or composting them, and it isn’t my favorite job so helps when I can just sit and enjoy the outdoors.  Hope all of you get a chance to just sit or go for a walk and enjoy the fall weather we are having.  High today of 65F(18C) Enjoy, stay dry as rain is coming in tonight, Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Sept 25 Friday will have a high like ours 65F(18C) but they too will have rain.  Isn’t that something that far away, and still the same.  Stay warm, stay dry, stay safe.
 
I am going to finish up how to plant your spring bulbs you plant in the fall.  Quality of the bulbs is very important.  I personally think that is why some of your bulbs don’t come up in the spring.  Give this a read to help with that. 
Now that you know which bulbs grow best in your region, the next step is choosing healthy, high-quality bulbs that will thrive and bloom year after year. Picking the right bulbs can make all the difference in your spring display.
Choosing Bulbs: What to Look For
Size matters: Larger bulbs produce stronger plants and more abundant blooms.
Freshness counts: Select bulbs that are fresh and firm, not brittle, rotted, or moldy. Avoid shriveled bulbs.
Protective skins: Intact “tunics” shield bulbs from pests and disease.
Storage tips: Plant bulbs promptly, or keep them cool (60°–65°F) until ready. Avoid heat above 70°F.
If wildlife like squirrels, deer, or voles are an issue, consider wire cages or pest-resistant varieties like daffodils. For more on protecting bulbs, explore rodent-proof bulbs.
Where to Buy Bulbs for Fall Planting
For the best selection and quality, shop with trusted nurseries or local garden centers rather than big-box stores. Specialty online suppliers offer wider variety and expert guidance. Order early—most nurseries ship bulbs September through October. Plant extra bulbs for cutting and indoor color!
How to Plant Fall Bulbs
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task—unless you’ve ordered hundreds! Still, a few key tips will help you get it right:
Choose a sunny spot: Bulbs need at least partial sun in spring. They thrive under trees, in drifts, or in containers with spring annuals.
Ensure good drainage: Add compost or organic matter to prevent rot. In sandy soil, plant a little deeper; in clay, plant slightly shallower.
Plant point-side up: Always set bulbs with the tip facing upward and roots down.
Plant at the right depth: Generally, plant bulbs three times as deep as their width. See our planting chart for specifics.
Stagger bloom times: Mix early-, mid-, and late-season bulbs for continuous spring color.
Positioning: Place shorter bulbs toward the front of beds for visibility.
Plant generously: Some bulbs may not sprout or could be eaten. Plant in clusters or en masse for dramatic displays.
Tools: Hand-planting works fine; use a shovel for multiple bulbs.
Planting Depth vs. Flower Height: Taller bulbs like daffodils and tulips go deeper; smaller bulbs like crocuses stay closer to the surface.
Caring for Bulbs After Planting
Fertilize if needed: Use a low-nitrogen formula (like 9-6-6) applied around the bulbs, not in the hole.
Water deeply: Soak to the full planting depth, then again before the ground freezes.
Mulch: A 2- to 3-inch layer retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and prevents frost heave.
Spring watering: Water weekly during dry spells while flowers are growing.
Fertilize rebloomers: Top-dress again when shoots appear for bulbs you hope to return.
See our article on what to do with flower bulbs after they bloom.
Troubleshooting Common Bulb Problems
Even the most foolproof bulbs can run into a little trouble. Here’s how to head off the usual suspects before they ruin your spring show.
No blooms: Planting too shallow, crowded beds, or too much shade can prevent flowering.
Wildlife losses: Squirrels and voles may eat bulbs; choose resistant varieties or use cages.
Rot: Bulbs in soggy soil can rot; amend soil and mound beds if needed.
Frost heave: Mulch protects bulbs from freeze-thaw cycles.
Happy Bulb Planting!
Whether tucking daffodils under trees or dreaming of tulips by the mailbox, planting bulbs in fall is a little act of faith—and a big reward come spring. Give them good soil, a cozy bed, and a bit of patience, and they’ll surprise you when winter fade.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/planting-fall-bulbs-spring-flowers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from fity.club

images from publicdomainpictures.net, pixabay.com,ar.inspirepencil.com,

What bulbs can I plant this fall for spring bulbs?  Here is a quiz to see if you recognize the flower from the bulb it came from.  Answers at the end.  

​The sun is out with a clear blue sky.  Chilly this morning but going to be a great day with the sun out.  Temperature will warm up to 67F(19C) but now it is 49F(9C).  WOW that is a typical fall day.  Stay warm, then just enjoy the sun, and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Sept 24th Thursday as they too are having chilly mornings at 43F(6C) and a high of 70F(21C)  Stay warm, then enjoy the day, and stay safe.
 
When to plant fall bulbs for spring bulbs?  What should I plant? 
Craving color after a long, gray winter? Plant your bulbs this fall and let spring surprise you! From cheerful daffodils and crocuses to showy tulips, fragrant hyacinths, and striking alliums, autumn-planted bulbs sleep through the cold and wake up just in time to dazzle.
Key Points
Plant fall bulbs when soil drops below 60°F, roughly 6 weeks before your first hard frost—September/October in northern regions, October/November in the South, and by Halloween if unsure; set bulbs point-up at a depth about three times their width, in well-draining soil with full sun to partial shade.
Best Time to Plant Bulbs in Fall
Fall-planted bulbs need time to grow roots before the ground freezes. The best time to plant is when soil temperatures drop below 60°F (typically about 6 weeks before your first hard frost):
 
Northern regions: Plant in September or October
Southern regions: Plant in October or November
Very warm climates: Some bulbs may need to be pre-chilled before planting
Fall bulbs aren’t one-size-fits-all.
Best Flower Bulbs to Plant in Fall
Below are some of the most popular and reliable spring-blooming bulbs.
1. Alliums (Ornamental Onions)
Deer-resistant bulbs with dramatic spherical flowers in late spring. Prefer loose, sandy soil and full sun. Great for cutting gardens and pollinators. [Allium guide →]
2. Crocuses
One of the earliest spring bloomers, crocuses grow 4–6 inches tall and prefer full sun or partial shade. Not recommended if deer are a problem. Plant 3 inches deep. [Crocus growing tips →]
3. Daffodils
Deer-resistant and easy to grow, daffodils come in many colors and thrive in well-draining, amended soil. Plant 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart. [Learn more about daffodils→]
4. Hyacinths
Fragrant clusters that bloom alongside daffodils and tulips. Best grown as annuals for consistent blooms. Plant in well-draining soil. [Hyacinth care →]
5. Irises
Though technically rhizomes, fall is the best time to plant irises. They need excellent drainage and sun to attract pollinators. Plant early in the fall for strong root establishment.
6. Snowdrops
Deer- and vole-resistant, snowdrops bloom late winter to early spring and prefer moist soil and partial shade. Plant 3 inches deep and spaced 3 inches apart.
7. Tulips
Known for vibrant colors, tulips need well-draining, fertile soil and often act as annuals in many areas due to critter damage. Plant 4–6 inches deep. [More on tulips →]
 
Tulip tip: You can plant tulips later than most fall bulbs—sometimes even into winter—if you can still dig into the soil.
Tomorrow I will post on quality of bulbs and how to plant. 
1. allium
2.crocus
3.daffodil
4.hyacinth
5.irises
6.muscari
7.snowdrop
8.tulip

Taken from https://www.almanac.com/planting-fall-bulbs-spring-flowers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  
images from publicdomainpictures.net, pixabay.com,ar.inspirepencil.com,

image from plantsaddicts.com 

image from Robin Sweetser Endless Summer 

image from Robin Sweetser Strawberry Vanilla

image from Robin Sweetser Annabella

image from fity.com Oakleaf 

  Hydrangea What Kind do you have in your garden?  You will need to know to help when you prune them. 

Good morning.  Cloudy and overcast even deary for our first day of Fall.  Can you believe it?  I am not ready for this season at all.  Rained last night again, and weathermen are saying showers today.  Must see what happens.  Today’s temperature will be 59F(15C)  wasn’t it just a couple of weeks ago it was heat index of 90F.  How time when we go around the sun can change the weather with our seasons.  Stay warm, drier till the weekend, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Sept 23rd Wed will have the temperature warming up after chilly mornings.  High for them today will be 70F(21C) Enjoy, stay warm, and then stay cool. 
 
I hope this article along with the pictures will help you with your hydrangea.  This species is so important for you to know what variety you have.  I see so many hydrangeas in the landscape.  Good luck with this. 
​
When do you prune your hydrangea? It depends. If your hydrangea blooms on “old” wood, you should NOT cut back in the fall, or you will sacrifice next year’s flowers! See our handy chart on when to prune common types of hydrangeas.
​
When to Prune Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas should be pruned based on whether they bloom on old or new wood. Bigleaf, oakleaf, mountain, and climbing hydrangeas bloom on old wood and should be pruned after flowering in summer. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood and should be pruned in late winter or early spring.
Hydrangea Pruning Chart
Use this hydrangea pruning chart to determine the correct pruning time for each variety.
Hydrangea Type                                             When to Prune    Where Flowers Appear
Mophead and Bigleaf (H. macrophylla)         After flowering (summer)       On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia)                        After flowering (summer)      On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata)               Late winter/early spring, before spring growth       On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens)        Late winter/early spring, before spring growth         On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata)                          After flowering (summer)       On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris)         After flowering (summer)       On old growth
Both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are considered bigleaf or macrophylla hydrangeas, so they can be pruned right after flowering by cutting back the flowering shoots to the next bud. If you have older plants that aren’t blooming well, you can cut up to a third of the stems off at the base in late summer to encourage new growth.
Mophead and Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
There are hydrangea hybrids that grow on both old and new wood. My ‘Endless Summer’ mophead hydrangea (hardy from Zones 4 to 9) has the wonderful ability to bloom on both old and new wood. ‘Endless Summer’ hydrangeas thrive with sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. You do not have to prune your ‘Endless Summer’ since they bloom on both old and new growth, but if you need to cut back, do so immediately after blooming. Remove only dead stems in the spring.
I
My other blue hydrangea is a lacecap type, called ‘Let’s Dance Starlight’, but instead of the huge, mophead type of flower cluster that ‘Endless Summer’ has, the lacecap hydrangea bears a flat blossom made up of many small, fertile flowers surrounded by a few showy, sterile flowers. It is hardy from Zones 5 to 9 and blooms on both old and new wood.  As with ‘Endless Summer’, pruning is generally not needed, but it may be trimmed lightly after the first flowering.
Bottom line: Mophead and Bigleaf hydrangeas should only be pruned just after the flowers have faded and no later.
The hydrangeas grown most often in cooler climates are the panicle types, since they are not only beautiful but also very hardy, surviving Zone 3 winters with no problems. One of the oldest and most reliable favorites is ‘Grandiflora’, also known as Pee Gee hydrangea. Native to China and Japan, it was the first Asian hydrangea cultivar introduced to the United States in 1862. They were a big hit during the Victorian era. The flowers start out a creamy white and turn a rosy pink as they age. They can be dried and look lovely in a winter arrangement. Find out how to dry these lovely hydrangeas here.
There are many panicle types to choose from. I have one called ‘Pinky Winky’ that has long, cone-shaped white and pink flowers, and also ‘Vanilla Strawberry’, which has panicles that color from white at the tip to pink in the middle and red at the base. For something different, try ‘Limelight’, which has chartreuse flowers that gradually turn pink in autumn.
Bottom-line: Panicle-type hydrangeas should be pruned in late winter or early spring. While they could be pruned in fall, we highly advise waiting until late winter/early spring to reduce the risk of injury.

Smooth Hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
Smooth hydrangeas are North American natives, originally found growing wild in Pennsylvania. They tolerate light shade, begin to bloom in June, and continue to blossom until fall. Their white flowers are round and can reach 12 inches in diameter.
The popular cultivar ‘Annabelle’ grows to be 3 to 5 feet tall and can be used to light up a shady path or as a mass planting at the edge of the woods. It is hardy to Zone 3.
Bottom line: Smooth hydrangeas can be pruned back to the ground in late winter or early spring. While they could be pruned in fall, we highly advise waiting until late winter/early spring.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
Oakleaf hydrangeas are another North American native, having been discovered in Georgia in 1773.
Also called swamp snowball, it is hardy to Zone 5, and though it prefers full sun, it can take some shade and still blossom well. It blooms a little later than the other hydrangeas, beginning in August. Its flowers are large panicles that start out white and turn dark pink as they age. The leaves, which are deeply lobed like an oak leaf, turn a rich maroon red in the fall.
Bottom line: Oakleaf hydrangeas, which bloom on old wood, should only be pruned just after the flowers have faded and no later.  images from Robin Sweetser, backyardboss.net, fity.com 

 Taken from https://www.almanac.com/when-prune-different-kinds-hydrangeas
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from fity.club

Boy it feels like fall this morning.  Fall officially starts on Tuesday Sept 22, 2026 

Wet morning.  It is raining again this morning.  I think it was dry on Sunday here, but I could be wrong.  I have a window open, but I am thinking about closing it as it is chilly out.   Feels like fall temperature is at 52F(11C)  but feels like 48F and only a high today of 56F(14C)  Definitely sweatshirt weather.   Grandkids homecoming week for both St. Ansgar and Charles City.   Sorry to say the week looks cool and wet.  See what happens.  Stay dry, stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends wrote and told me they have had some nice spring weather but the last few days it has been cooler.  Looks like the mornings have been cool.  This morning Tuesday Sept 22nd will be a low of 37F(3C) but the daytime temperatures will go up t0 60’s and 70’s (15C-20C) It looks dry for their week.  Stay warm, then stay cool, and stay safe. 
 
Time to look at what is happening in your yards, and gardens with fall here.  Things are changing and here we go we are into fall.
 
September 21 stands at one of the year’s great turning points. Across the temperate Northern Hemisphere, daylight is approaching its autumn balance, leaves are beginning to reveal hidden colours and gardens are quietly shifting energy from flowers and fruit towards roots, seeds and winter survival. South of the equator, the same light signals spring and a fresh surge of growth.
What to Observe Right Now
Take a slow circuit of the garden and look for transitions rather than tasks:
Which tree colours first – and is the change even across the crown?
Where does dew reveal webs that were invisible the day before?
Flowers still attract bees during the warmest hour of the afternoon?
Are birds feeding on berries, seeds or insects before moving on?
After rain, where does water soak in, collect or run away with soil?
These small observations create a useful record. Repeated from year to year, they can reveal changing flowering times, persistent dry spots, wind exposure and the plants that offer the greatest value to wildlife at the edge of the season.
Garden Science – Why are some leaves changing colour already?
As days shorten, many deciduous trees reduce chlorophyll production and begin withdrawing useful nutrients from their leaves. With the dominant green pigment fading, yellow and orange pigments that were present all along become visible; red pigments may be produced in some species under suitable conditions. Temperature and moisture influence the display, but day length is the dependable seasonal signal.
Very early colour can also indicate stress rather than an early autumn. A tree affected by drought, root damage or disease may begin shutting down leaves ahead of its neighbours. Compare plants of the same species nearby, check the soil below the surface and look for dieback or damaged bark before assuming the colour is purely seasonal.
Taken from https://garden-guide.com/garden-almanac-for-september-21-hurricane-forests-stone-walled-fields-and-a-garden-for-peace/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from fity.club

Nanticoke is a rare heirloom winter squash, originally grown by the Nanticoke people of what is now Delaware and Maryland

Nanticoke squash have you heard of this?  Heirloom winter squash originally grown by the Nanticoke people. 

​Good morning.  It is a cloudy, foggy and deary day.  We are having sprinkles off and on this morning.  We had heavy rain last night, but it didn’t last too long.  I haven’t heard from Larry had much we did get.  Damp and it is humid out.  Fronts are moving in and out this weekend for rain, and more rain tonight.  Stay dry. 
 
Australia family and friends for their Sunday Sept 20th is having high of 81F(27C) which is really warming up for them.  Stay cool, stay safe. 
 
I wasn’t going to post today, but as I was writing on a postcard to say thank you to the shop customer, I came across this squash and had to find out more about it.  I am wondering if you are from or live in Maryland if you are familiar with this kind of squash.  I will look up the seeds and see if I can grow some for next year which would be fun to see the grown squash with this heritage. 
 
Nanticoke squash is a culturally significant, heirloom winter squash (Cucurbita maxima) associated with the Nanticoke people, known for its remarkable diversity in color, shape, and flavor, and valued for culinary versatility and long storage potential.
Origins and History
Nanticoke squash, also known as Mahkahkw in the Nanticoke language, is a landrace of Cucurbita maxima, a species that originated in South America, particularly in Argentina, over 4,000 years ago
 It is believed to have arrived in North America in the 1500s, where it was cultivated by the Nanticoke people of southern Delaware and the Eastern Shore of Maryland, forming one of the few surviving Native American winter squashes from the Eastern Woodlands
This squash is named after the Nanticoke people, reflecting their agricultural traditions and cultural legacy
In modern times, initiatives like the Experimental Farm Network and the Native Roots Farm Foundation have been working to rematriate Nanticoke squash to Nanticoke communities, ensuring the preservation of both seeds and cultural knowledge
Characteristics and Diversity
Nanticoke squash is highly diverse in appearance:
Colors: blue, pink, grey (most common), orange, coral, white, green, gold, and red
Shapes: some fruits are small and round, others large and flat, some pointed, with occasional “turban” features or prominent warts
Size: typically 3–8 pounds, though other sizes may occur.
Flesh: dense, golden-orange, and sweet, with a fine-grained texture; flavor deepens with storage
Its rich diversity arises from decades of careful hand-pollination and seed selection to maintain both taste and vigor while preserving the open-pollinated landrace characteristics
Culinary Uses
Nanticoke squash is prized for cooking due to its sweet, tender flesh when roasted, baked, or mashed:
Can be used in soups, stews, pies, gnocchi, custards, and roasted vegetable dishes
Flavor note: mildly sweet with a subtle tannin-like complexity, often described as a balance of sweet and slightly sharp
Storage: long-lasting at room temperature for several months, making it a valuable winter food
Growing Information
Life cycle: annual; grows on large, sprawling vines that can cover several feet
Spacing: plant 30–36 inches apart in rows 5–6 feet apart for optimal growth
Climate: thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 3–9, preferring warm soil and full sun
Planting: direct sow after soil warms (typically May-June), or transplant seedlings
Harvest: approximately 100–110 days from sowing; stocks should be cured in a warm, dry place for 10–14 days to toughen the rind
Cultural Significance
Nanticoke squash represents more than food; it is a symbol of cultural resilience and heritage, bridging past and present for the Nanticoke tribe. Seed rematriation efforts reconnect communities with ancestral crops, restoring traditional agricultural practices and culinary knowledge while reinforcing food sovereignty and identity
Growing Nanticoke squash today offers both biodiversity in the garden and an opportunity to honor Native American history and agricultural wisdom. The seeds used by modern growers are often sourced responsibly, and some programs donate seed proceeds to the Nanticoke Lenni-Lenape Nation
In summary, Nanticoke squash is a unique, heirloom winter squash with rich diversity, both culinary and cultural. Its cultivation preserves genetic heritage and maintains a living connection to the Nanticoke people and their historic agricultural practices.
Taken from AI
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

images from Evelyn and Tom McAdam South Australia 

Sharing with you an adventure that Tom, Evelyn McAdam are in South Australia 

​  I am doing this with permission from Evelyn McAdam Larry’s sister from Australia.  They are on a houseboat with 2 other couples.  The houseboat pictures were taken  at Morgan on the Murray South Australia.  I was amazed at the size of the houseboat, so different from the houseboats on the Mississippi when I was growing up.
If you noticed the flowers Evelyn took are in sand  and she took the pictures when they were on a walk.  How they can grow in that sand.  Interesting.  It is a wide river and looks pretty calm.  They are having a great time.  Enjoy and stay safe McAdam’s.  
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse