image from homesandgardens.com

Monday morning in Dougherty with an overcast sky.  BUT it is going to be warm today high of 47F(7C). A mix of clouds and sun during the morning will give way to cloudy skies this afternoon.  Winds out of the S at 10-20 MPH. This will be the warmest day of the week. Enjoy and take it all in as it is still Feb. and we could have lots of winter yet.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Tuesday Feb 10 will have a high of 78F(26C) and I do believe they would say this is a good summer day.  But it looks like it is going to warm up for them again on Wed.  I need to get a report if they have rain this weekend. Hope so because of all these high temperatures they are dry.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
I am adding more of the gardening myths.  The one about watering in the full sun I found interesting.  I water all day with the outside plants so watering in the full sun I do.  All food for thought.

Sometimes, gardening advice gets passed around like gossip. It could be gardening tips from your grandfather on your mother’s side or a neighbor’s anecdotal vegetable garden evidence. It’s easy to hear something a few times, begin to believe it, and then adopt it into your own gardening practice. Here are some gardening myths that I’ve heard passed around and how they are based on misinformation or outdated methods.

 You must plant your vegetables in neat rows
If you’re growing crops on a farm, it makes sense to grow everything in neat tidy rows that allow you to use heavy-duty machinery to till, sow, and harvest your crops. But in your backyard vegetable garden, you can decide the layout for your plants based on personal preference. There’s even an argument for mixing up your vegetables as a way of using companion planting to ward off pests and disease.

Potting soil needs to be changed out regularly
If you’re working with a container garden or even a small windowsill herb garden, you may think you need to swap out the soil regularly in order to reintroduce nutrients to your herbs and vegetables. The truth is that once a year will do just fine.
​q
Watering during a sunny day will burn plants because water droplets magnify the sun’s rays
This is one of those gardening myths that falls into the “old wives tales” category. The pseudoscience is that if you water during a sunny day, water droplets will act as mini magnifying glasses and concentrate the sun’s rays onto your garden, scorching the leaves. This is just false and has been disproven many times over. There is a risk, however, that by watering during the hottest point of the day, that much of that great water will evaporate into the air instead of nourishing your vegetables. For that reason, it may be worth watering in the morning or later afternoon instead.
Taken from https://foodgardening.mequoda.com/daily/vegetable-gardening/gardening-myths-busted
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from freepk.com 

Afternoon now in Dougherty Iowa at 1:45 PM 29F(-1.6C) which is our high for today.  I thought it was going to feel warmer out, but we have a south wind so that makes it feel colder because the air is very damp. Clouds are moving in but still see some sunshine.  Enjoy how you can.  Roads are all good, there is still some snow on the side roads so be careful as they are melting it will become slippery.  I have such a fear of that ice and snow.   Enjoy and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Sunday Feb 8th will have a high today of 82F(28C) and they have 70% of rain.  It is so needed, I hope they get some rain.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
I am going to post off and on different gardening myths.  Doing one at a time, to make it a quick read for you.  If you don’t agree with these myths let me know. 
​
Gardening Myths Busted There’s a lot of misinformation out there when it comes to vegetable gardening. By Amanda MacArthur
​
Sometimes, gardening advice gets passed around like gossip. It could be gardening tips from your grandfather on your mother’s side or a neighbor’s anecdotal vegetable garden evidence. It’s easy to hear something a few times, begin to believe it, and then adopt it into your own gardening practice. Here are some gardening myths that I’ve heard passed around and how they are based on misinformation or outdated methods.
Composting smells terrible
Of all the gardening myths out there, this is the one I run into any time I mention composting. “But it’s going to stink up the place!” The truth is, if your compost pile is smelling like anything but earthy dirt, something isn’t right. There are some composting basics that will help you keep your compost pile smelling fresh, like making sure there’s enough oxygen in your pile. Regularly turning your compost incorporates more oxygen allowing for a more even breakdown of organic matter.
Taken from https://foodgardening.mequoda.com/daily/vegetable-gardening/gardening-myths-busted
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

Cloudy overcast sky morning.  Maybe some blue sky will peak through.  Wasn’t yesterday just an awesome day.  Clear, blue sky so lots of sun and it was warm out.  36F(2C) and that is our high of the day. Wind is coming out of the NNW and getting stronger, so that will keep the temperature where it is.  We are having more sunlight with cumulus clouds.  Again, enjoy this temperature, and sunshine. 
 
Australia family and friends for Feb 7 Saturday will see 79F(26C) mostly clear, so they look like a great summer day for them.  The humidity is high so it might feel warmer for them.  Stay cool, stay safe. 
 
I am posting several pictures from the Sale Botanic Gardens of Sale, Victoria, Aust.  It is so enjoyable to see color, green and how about the birds.  ENJOY 

These beautiful clusters of yellow flowers are found on Roldana petasitis, also known as Velvet Groundsel or Californian geranium.
The plant can grow in full sun to part shade, survives droughts and here, frosts as it grows under the shelter of a tree. It is probably 122cm or 4’ tall here and is pruned each season.
Have you noticed the large velvety textured leaves which can grow as big as 30cm or 11”?

Hiding behind a veil of seeds is the Eastern Rosella    (Platycercus eximius).
This native Australian bird can be found throughout the south eastern parts of Australia and along the eastern seaboard to Brisbane.
This bird was feeding on the Dianella plant (Flax Lily) which is a popular, hardy Australian native known for its strappy leaves and bright blue berries.
​
It is also know as blueberry lily, blue flax lily or black anther flax lily and is another hardy, drought resistant plant that can grow in full sun or shade.
Plants can tolerate salty air, mild frosts and many types of soil conditions but don’t like wet feet.
Good to see the Woody Meadow responding well to its coppicing from a few months ago.
Taken from the Friends of the Sale Botanic Gardens
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image form pixabay.com 

Morning in Dougherty we finally going to be above freezing high today of 37F(3C).  It is going to be overcast but warmer.  ENJOY, stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Friday Feb 6th. You ask what time it is there now.  Here it is 7:36AM Thursday morning for them it is 12:36 AM Friday morning.  I will hear from them this afternoon when it is their morning time.  There high today will be 79F(26C) which is 4 degrees warmer.  Again, I think it would be a nice summer day for them.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
The Power of Flowers: How Growing Blooms Boosts Health, Happiness & Hope Written By:  Melissa Spencer Flower Farmer
I think we all know that flowers can be mood boosters and hope givers but this is a interesting read about it.  With Valentine’s Day coming, the flowers will be enjoyed. 
 Imagine a riot of colors, scents, and shapes bursting from every patio pot and garden bed—spring has arrived! Flowers aren’t just pretty faces; they’re tiny therapists, mood boosters, and hope-givers all rolled into one. From the first daffodil cracking through winter’s frost to a lavender-scented afternoon in your backyard, flowers remind us that life is full of beauty, renewal, and a little magic waiting to bloom.
Flowers Mark the Milestones of Our Lives
Special birthdays, anniversaries, births, and deaths or transitions into parenthood and marriage are all occasions marked with special flowers. A walk down the aisle is incomplete without a beautiful bouquet of flowers in hand. They become a fragrant talisman held close to bring good luck as we traverse over the thresholds in our lives. It doesn’t always require a major life transition either to experience or appreciate the value that a posy of fragrant flowers can provide. They can simply just make any moment that much brighter and memorable. Flowers are infused with such power that we keep them close during the vulnerable moments in our lives.
The “Power of Flowers” isn’t just a throwback to the tie-dye era of peace and love and nonviolence. Though I won’t discount the relevance of those values today or the need for them in our lives. What it reflects is that flowers can provide an important symbol of unity that helps gather a group of people and weave them together around a shared sense of purpose.
Each state, for example, has its own state flower, and a sense of pride is often associated with that flower. Often, the flower is chosen to represent the people or a meaningful value that relates to their combined history, such as resilience or longevity. A flower that has evolved to thrive within a particular landscape and weather pattern is a good symbol to claim as representation. New Hampshire’s state flower is Syringa vulgaris, Purple Lilac. After much debate, it was chosen for its beauty and its hardiness, and served as an appropriate reflection of a people who endure the harsh winters of the Northeast.
Flowers as symbols can convey a language all their own and sometimes it’s quite valuable. In fact, it was the humble Tulip, in the early 17th century, that stirred passions and created a buzz of buying and selling the heavily sought-after bulbs that eventually became known as “Tulipomania.” According to Mike Dash in his book by that name, the height of the mania united various Turks, Dutch, French, and others vying for relevance in the exotic-flower frenzy surrounding what would later become the first futures market in history.
Planting Flower Seeds Grows Hope
Winters can be very long, especially in northern climates. For months, the white and gray-covered landscape offers a beauty all its own, and colorful it is not. Green growth is at a standstill while Mother Nature takes a much-needed rest. The first flowering signs of spring to show in the landscape here can include yellow forsythia, fragrant daffodils, and tri-petaled trillium. After almost 6 months of whiteness, anything yellow, pink, purple, peach, or green is a very welcome sight. To watch a daffodil bud crack through the thawing earth and make daily progress towards blossoming into a fragrant bloom can be thrilling. Planting a small handful of seeds into the soil and awaiting their emergence and growth fills us with anticipation and a sense of hope.

”Though I do not believe that a plant will spring up where no seed has been, I have great faith in a seed. Convince me that you have a seed there, and I am prepared to expect wonders.” 
–Henry David Thoreau

Flower Fragrance Roots Us in Relaxation
Scent is the most direct of all of our senses. When we pick up a daffodil, violet, or a sprig of lavender and take a whiff, the fragrance molecules enter our nasal cavity and are carried from the olfactory bulb directly to the limbic system, that mysterious and primal section of our brain where memory, emotion, and feelings live. It completely skips the chatty part of our minds.
In this way, the fragrance of a flower can immediately transport us back to childhood memories of being in the garden with grandma or walking along a border of lilac bushes. With each breath we take, we inhale and each inhalation becomes a scent carrier.

Working outdoors amongst fragrant flowers or simply strolling past flowers set upon the kitchen table can provide an opportunity to use the carrying power of scent to root feelings of calm, relaxation, joy and peace deep within. In her book, A Natural History of the Senses, Diane Ackerman describes this,
 ”Unlike other senses, smell needs no interpreter. The effect is immediate and undiluted by language, thought, or translation. A smell can be overwhelmingly nostalgic because it triggers powerful images and emotions before we have time to edit them. What you see and hear may quickly fade into the compost heap of short-term memory, but, as Edwin T. Morris points out in Fragrance, “there is almost no short-term memory with odors. It’s all long-term.”
Each spring, I look forward to sitting next to the patch of daffodils, the flower of renewal and new beginnings, just to take in their airy, jasmine- and vanilla-tinged, sweet scent. I encourage you to try this and, as you breathe them in, give yourself a few quiet moments to breathe deeply and calmly, trusting that as you do, you are making future memories via scent that will root future you in relaxation.
Flower Beauty is a Revolution
Flowers stir our sense of beauty, and oh, how we desperately need more beauty in our lives. It doesn’t take a scientific study to show that fresh flowers around the home and workplace greatly improve our moods and soothe our anxiety and stress.
 Flowers can increase levels of positive feelings with the same visual features that attract a bee to the healthiest bloom for its nectar or pollen. Seeking out beauty is an act of evolution and is based on survival. According to Michael Pollan in his book, The Botany of Desire, “Through their colors and symmetries, through their most elemental principles of beauty (that is, contrast and pattern), flowers alert other species to their presence and significance. Walk among them, and you see faces turned toward you (though not only you), beckoning, greeting, informing, promising—meaning.”  To spend even the briefest moments appreciating the colors, shapes, fragrance, and often imperfect beauty of a bloom is to see for a moment a reflection of the beauty of life.

Everything that slows us down and forces patience, everything that sets us back into the slow circles of nature, is a help. Gardening is an instrument of grace. –May Sarton
​
More Flowers, More Food
A flower power garden that helps out the butterflies, birds, and bees whenever possible is being a good steward of nature. Different pollinators prefer different plants, and having a variety that blooms throughout the length of the season can offer them the variation they need to thrive. These little buzzing dynamos become the carriers of pollen from one plant to the next, and this work of diligence is what helps our fruit and nut trees, flowers, and vegetables to reproduce and produce. According to the Pollinator Partnership, one out of every three bites of food we take is thanks to the industriousness of these small yet mighty flower lovers.
And, adding flowers amongst your vegetables has the added benefit of attracting the predators that will feed off the pests attacking your garden. It is a more-is-less type of situation. More of the good guys and fewer of the pests. Providing flowers ultimately helps the pollinators, which in turn helps to ensure that we have food to eat.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/flower-power-surprising-healing-benefits-flowers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from urbangardeningspace.com 

Morning here in Dougherty Iowa, at 9:30 AM the temperature is at 9F(-11C) Weathermen saying this is the coldest morning we will have for this week and next.  It is going to be cloudy, so it will not be as nice as it was yesterday.  But it looks like clouds come with warm temperatures.  I suppose the moisture from the snow is going into the air, which will lead to the clouds.  High today of        20F(-7C).  At least it is above zero and no wind chill below zero.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Thursday Feb 5 Evelyn wrote yesterday “It's very warm out there today, do I'll be doing inside jobs this afternoon.”  There high today will be 79F(26C) and that is only 3 degrees warmer than their average.  So, I would say it would be a day to be outside.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
I thought you might like to see what pollinators would like in the garden.  What I found interesting is that
Fun Fact        Not just bees! Butterflies, bats, beetles, flies, hummingbirds, and even moths are all pollinators.  Give some thought to planting these in your garden if you don’t all ready. 

Native and seasonal flower garden design to feed pollinators from early spring to late fall.  Written By:  Catherine Boeckmann
Our Pollinator Paradise Flower Garden Layout is both beautiful and purposeful. This garden design focuses on open, native flowers that are easy for pollinators to access for a vibrant garden—like lavender, echinacea, and borage. Attract bees, butterflies, and hoverflies while providing colorful blooms from early spring to autumn!
Plants That Attract Pollinators (By Gardening Zone)
Fun Fact        Not just bees! Butterflies, bats, beetles, flies, hummingbirds, and even moths are all pollinators.
The Pollinator Paradise Garden Plan
This pollinator garden layout includes common pollinator-friendly flowers in a variety of shapes, heights, and colors—from tubular foxgloves and lavender for long-tongued bees to flat-flowered yarrow and coneflowers for easier access. Blue, purple, and violet flowers are emphasized, as these colors are highly visible to pollinators and signal rich nectar sources.
Early-season blooms like crocus and pulmonaria help pollinators emerging from hibernation, while late-season plants like borage and dahlias sustain species flying into autumn. The center “lawn” is allowed to grow long, providing structural diversity with daisies and clover that supplement pollen and nectar for bees and hoverflies.
The Pollinator Plant List
Plant  Bloom Time  Height            Notes for Pollinators
Lavender      Mid–Late Summer 18–24”          Tubular flowers attract long-tongued bees
Alyssum        Spring–Fall   6–12” Great for hoverflies; small florets accessible to many pollinators
Echinacea     Mid–Late Summer 24–36”          Flat-topped; attracts bees and butterflies
Pulmonaria  Early Spring 12–18”          Early nectar source for emerging pollinators
Yarrow          Summer        18–24”          Flat clusters; accessible for many bee species
Agastache     Mid–Late Summer 18–30”          Tubular flowers for bees; fragrant
Crocus           Early Spring 4–6”   Early-season pollen and nectar
Borage           Summer        18–24”          Attracts bees; edible flowers
Poached Egg Plant Spring–Summer     18–24”          Ideal for hoverflies and small pollinators
Foxglove       Summer        36–48”          Tubular; preferred by long-tongued bees
Dahlia Late Summer–Fall  24–48”          Simple flower forms accessible to pollinators
Monarda (Bee Balm)         Summer        24–36”          Tubular flowers; attracts hummingbirds and bees
 
Provide continuous blooms from early spring to late fall by planting a mix of early, mid, and late-season flowers.
Plant taller tubular flowers (foxgloves, lavender, agastache) toward the back or center for structure.
Place flat, open flowers (yarrow, coneflowers) in clusters for easy access.
Group early bloomers (crocus, pulmonaria) to support early pollinators.
Allow the center lawn area to grow long, with daisies and clover for habitat and additional nectar.
Some species, like borage and dahlias, are great for late-season pollinators.
Keep soil consistently moist, especially during establishment.
Mulch around plants to retain moisture and reduce weeds.
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage succession and extend flowering.
Gardener Spotlight: Alex’s Experience
“I planted this pollinator garden in my backyard last spring and was amazed at the activity. Early in the season, I spotted bumblebees on the crocuses and hoverflies on the alyssum. By summer, lavender, echinacea, and foxgloves were buzzing constantly. The garden not only looked gorgeous but also felt alive—every day I saw new pollinators exploring different flowers.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/pollinator-garden-design
 Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from asktheman.xyz

Good morning at 9:30 Am.  Clear, blue sky  let us see what the temperature is 14F(-7C).  It is warming up.  High of 21F. A heat wave is coming, and this is the start.  The weatherman is saying next week we could have highs in the 40’s. We will take this and enjoy it.  You know, if this was November and the low was 21F we would be saying that it is so cold.  But in Feb. after we have had that long cold spell, we are excited for that temperature.  ENJOY, Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Wed Feb 4th.  One of my friends commented that the daylight is getting shorter, and a little more crispness in the air. It might feel like fall, but she knew that they could have some hot days right up to March and April.   This might be one of those days as their high today is 93F(33C).  I do believe that will be warm.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
The Old Farmer’s Almanac has our long-term prediction for this spring.  Have a read and see what you think.  Just saying for us they predicted that our winter would be mild.  Maybe for snow, but not for the temperature and that wind that blew.  We can give this some hope for our spring. 
​
Spring is a time of renewal across the country. Seasonal weather patterns play a key role in everyday planning—from agriculture and gardening to travel, outdoor projects, and events. Understanding temperature and precipitation trends over time can help individuals and communities prepare for the months ahead.

What is a Long-Range Forecast?
The 2026 Old Farmer’s Almanac predicts weather conditions over a period of time—a seasonal outlook, not a specific daily forecast. This makes long-range forecasts especially useful for planners, including farmers, gardeners, landscapers, homeowners, travelers, event organizers, and many others.
Temperature and precipitation levels are compared to historical averages to determine expected departures from normal.

Spring 2026 Temperatures
The spring outlook predicts warmer-than-normal temperatures across much of the United States, with a few exceptions. Parts of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and areas of Montana and Colorado are expected to see temperatures closer to or below seasonal averages.
Spring 2026 Precipitation
Much of the country is forecast to experience drier-than-normal conditions. However, wetter conditions are expected in:
Regional Highlights for April and May
Our long-range weather predictions for April and May are divided into 18 U.S. regions.
Northeast (Region 1):
Temperatures will be warmer than average, especially in May (3°F above normal). Precipitation is expected to be below average in both April and May. No significant snowfall is forecast.
Atlantic Corridor (Region 2):
From Boston to Richmond, temperatures will be warmer than usual, with the northern region expected to be 3°F above average in May. Rainfall will be below normal in April and normal in May.
Appalachians (Region 3):
Spring temperatures in this mountainous area will be slightly warmer than usual, and precipitation will range from below-normal rainfall in the north to above-normal in the south.
Southeast (Region 4):
Along the Carolinas and Georgia, temperatures will be warmer than usual. April will be drier than usual, while May will be slightly wetter than normal.
Florida (Region 5):
Florida will be warmer than normal in April and average in May. Rainfall will be below average in April but should return to normal levels in May.
Lower Lakes (Region 6):
Temperatures will be warmer than normal overall across Michigan and the surrounding Great Lakes states. Rainfall will be below normal in the east and above normal in the west.
Ohio Valley (Region 7):
In April and May, the region will experience above-average temperatures. Precipitation will be above normal in the east and below normal in the west.
Deep South (Region 8):
The Deep South will see warmer-than-normal temperatures, with April 4°F above average and May 1°F below average. Precipitation will be above normal in the north and below normal in the south.
Upper Midwest (Region 9):
During April and May, it will be cooler and drier than normal in the east, while the west will be warmer than normal, with above-normal precipitation.
Heartland (Region 10):
In Iowa, Missouri, and eastern Kansas and Nebraska, expect a warm spring (5°F above average in April). Rainfall will be below normal in the north and above normal in the south.
Texas-Oklahoma (Region 11):
April will bring warm temperatures (5°F above average), while May will cool off slightly (2°F below average in the north, 1°F above average in the south). Rainfall will be above normal. Watch for a tropical storm in late May.
High Plains (Region 12):
The Plains, from Bismarck to Amarillo, will experience warmer-than-normal temperatures, especially in April (5°F above average). Expect periods of extreme heat through the summer. Rainfall will be below normal in the east and above normal in the west.
Intermountain (Region 13):
From Spokane to Reno, east to Salt Lake City, and south to Flagstaff, temperatures will be cooler and wetter than normal in the north, and warmer and drier than normal in the south.
Desert Southwest (Region 14):
April will be warmer than usual in the desert areas of New Mexico, Arizona, and southeastern California, and May will have average temperatures. Rainfall will be above normal in the east and below normal in the west.
Pacific Northwest (Region 15):
From Seattle to Eureka along the coast, temperatures will be average in April. May will be cooler than normal in the north and warmer than normal in the south. It will be drier than usual.
Pacific Southwest (Region 16):
Temperatures will be above normal in April and May. Rainfall will be below normal.
Alaska (Region 17):
Spring will bring warmer-than-normal temperatures and above-normal precipitation in the north. The South will see below-normal precipitation.
Hawaii (Region 18):
Expect warmer-than-usual temperatures for the state this spring. The east will see below-normal rainfall, while the central and western regions will see above-normal amounts of rainfall.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/spring-weather-forecast
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from Lushome 

     Good morning.  It is warmer out by the thermometer so that is good.  It is cloudy out, but it looks like the clouds are getting less so we will see that sun. At 8:30 AM the wind still has a feeling of -3F. There still is dampness in the air. High today is 23F(-5C).  stay warm for sure. 
 
Australia family and friends for Tuesday Feb 3 will have 81F(27C) with higher humidity. So, it is still summer for them.  Stay cool, and I am sure you are watering your gardens.  
 
I found this article about waiting.  With all the snow, cold and winter we are having the idea of working outside in the gardens is such a great thought.  Feb. is a month we know it will be spring soon, but still, it is winter.  For me the waiting will be in the planting and taking care of the little plants are they grow.  If you saw the greenhouse today, you would wonder how that is going to happen.  I have lots of cleaning and organizing to do.  When Larry had to rebuild the north end of the greenhouse last fall, I moved lots of stuff.  Now I need to finish where to store it and get ready for the planting of the plug trays.  I am getting the first plug trays next week.  The temperature is going to get warmer so that will help.  It is the extreme cold temperatures at night that is hard on the growing cycle.  I will start this week, and work on the cleaning and organizing.  Here we go.  But for you, the gardener you are still waiting but I promise you spring will come. 
​
The Work of Waiting
February reminds us that rest, planning, and trust are essential parts of every successful garden.
February settles over the garden like a long, patient pause. Snow still blankets the beds, the ground remains firm with cold, and bare branches stand quietly against a pale winter sky. At first glance, it may seem as though nothing is happening at all. But February is not empty—it is expectant. This is the month when the garden teaches us how to wait, how to trust that rest itself is a form of work.
As gardeners, February asks for a different kind of attention. The flurry of New Year’s possibility has softened into something steadier and more deliberate. Beneath the frozen soil, roots are holding fast, microorganisms are quietly at work, and the earliest hints of spring are already being arranged out of sight. This is the season of patience, when progress is measured not in growth you can see, but in faith that the cycle is still moving forward.
February evenings invite reflection: a simmering pot on the stove, seed catalogs within reach, and the reassuring knowledge that every garden begins long before the first seed is sown.
Though winter still holds the landscape in its grip, February carries a quiet promise. The light lingers just a bit longer at day’s end. The garden, like the gardener, is gathering strength. And in this waiting—this steady, hopeful pause—we are reminded that growth does not rush. It arrives exactly when it’s ready, and it will be worth it when it does.
Taken from the food gardening network
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

We are now into Feb., and the temperatures are to be warming up.  At 3:00 PM the temperature is 4F(-4C) but feels like 14F with the wind and no sun out.  BUT it is above zero.   It looks like this week no below zero temperatures and some highs even into the 30’s.  This will be a nice week. See how this feels.
 
Australia family and friends for their Feb 2nd Monday will have a high of 69F(20C).  So I would think it would be a very pleasant day for them.  I will find out later if that is the case. Stay cool, stay safe.
 
I am posting some flowers from Evelyn’s garden.  For us it is a treat to see color, green and plants when all we see is white snow, cold and brown grass.  Thank you, Evelyn, for sharing with us.  I will have to write an article on the wicking gardens you see.  It is something new for us when we visit them.    
 
 Here's a few photos from my garden. My Abraham Derby just has a few buds left in this round of flowering. (the rose) I should get another flush in 6 weeks. It's such a great rose bush with prolific flowering.
My wicking beds with green beans BD pumpkin in one, raspberries in another and tomato plants in the other two red kangaroo paw which is just behind the climbing frame near the sand pit.
​
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

snapdragons, image from Melissa Spencer-Ribble cut flower farm

Amaranthus image from Melissa Spencer Ripple Cut flower farm

I looked at the clock, and it is good afternoon.  I just finished my radio show, so now time to write and post today’s writing.   We have lots of sunshine which is nice to have.  At first, the weather said no sun, but we have it now. Temperature is 11F (-11C) but wind is blowing out of the north at 16 mph, so wind chill makes it feel like -6F. Bitterly cold again tonight with a low of -1 with the wind out of the NNW.  Tomorrow looks warmer and every day next week we will be warmer.  It will seem like a warm track with temperatures in the high 20’s and even some 30’s.  January will be in the past, and hopefully February will have warmer temperatures.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Now Australia family and friends for their Jan 31, Saturday are to have 86F(31C) and still in the alert for extreme heat.  Humidity is at 91% and we know how that feels.  No rain in the future with that high humidity.  That is taking all out of the soil, and area around.   Looks like their temperature is coming down for a couple of days, so hopefully relieve from the extreme heat.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Yesterday I shared about starting vegetable seeds.  Here is a gardener that starts flower seeds.  I thought it would be fun to share this.  Great flowers for cut flowers.  Spring will come, I promise. 

A flower farmer’s guide to the most cheerful, hardy flowers you can start from seed—plus sowing tips.
Written By:  Melissa Spencer Flower Farmer
As a flower farmer, I’ve discovered that some of the easiest flowers to start from seed are also some of the most cheerful and hardy! That’s good news for all gardeners, especially beginners. Follow along to learn about my ten favorite flowers to sow from seed, along with helpful tips and a reference chart.  
Seed starting can feel mysterious and daunting, but when you find success with even just one flower, then it becomes a true source of joy and pride. As you will soon find out, it is addictive in the best of ways!
I recommend, if you are a beginner, to grow slowly and start small, with maybe 1 or 2 flowers first, until you have success. Soon after, you will have every windowsill painted green with the promise of color happily growing in the sun. After years of trialing wide varieties of flowers, I have come to rely on certain ones year after year that I can easily start inside and transplant out when the time is right.
1. Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
Fragrant, ruffly blooms that remind me of the citrusy scent of the old-time Fruit Stripe gum of childhood and the first flower that I fell in love with seeding, despite it being the tiniest seed I had ever seen! I doubted myself through the whole process and continued anyway. It reminded me that actions speak louder than words, and just to have some faith. I was rewarded with the most lovely, fragrant, billowy blooms that first spring and have grown thousands since.
Sowing Tip: These annuals are cold and hardy, and their seeds are extremely tiny, the size of a speck of pepper. If you sprinkle generously on top of your soil or container, the seedlings can be thinned or pricked out and spread out as they grow.
2. Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)
There isn’t a seed that could be easier! The majestic, sun-faced sunflowers are one of the most important and oldest native flowers of North America. A source of food, oil, and beauty, they have also been known to clean and aerate the soil with their incredibly deep taproots. Sunflower varieties are exploding these days, with individual growers choosing and selecting for certain color strains to isolate and breed. Tall, short, branching, red, yellow, white, and brown, the variety for growing sunflowers is endless!
Sowing Tip: When sowing, be sure to bury your seed about 1/2 inch deep. If direct seeding, keep seeds protected with a little covering until they germinate and the seed head has fallen off,  as the birds love the seeds and will feast upon them!
3. Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)
It may be the second-easiest seed to start ever, next to sunflower. Zinnia is a real pleasure to grow and super easy to maintain. It is a summer annual that comes in a variety of shades and colors, with the Queen Series above being a customer favorite. Keep deadheaded, and it will keep on throwing up blooms. If pinched when young, they will branch out and offer even more blooms.
Sowing Tip: While you can plant directly into the soil, I often start these ahead of time and get them quickly growing by sprouting hundreds of them on paper towels first and then pricking them out and placing them into the soil to grow on. See the Almanac’s Guide to Growing Zinnias.
4. Celosia (Celosia spicata)
Wispy, wavy, and spiky, Celosia in all its diversity is a treat for the eyes. This is a fun flower that loves the summer heat, adds texture and color to the garden, and makes a beautiful cut flower when added to bouquets. Also known as an everlasting, it dries really well and can be used in crafting autumn wreaths or other holiday décor.
Sowing Tip: The tiny seeds can be sown using the “toothpick method.” Pour seeds into a bowl and lick the toothpick or dip it into water. Pick up one seed at a time and place it on top of the soil to sow. Or, simply sprinkle between your thumb and pointer fingers onto the soil surface.
5. Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
These graceful beauties always make me wish I had started more and planted more of them, especially when the wind picks up, and they dance around at the change of the seasons. It is a great seedling to grow and plant with young children because of its prolific root system that makes the seedling hardy, and it’s so easy to handle and tuck into the earth for smaller hands. They are foolproof! If you have kids, sow Cosmo seeds and let them at it!
Sowing Tip: Bury the seed about 1/4 inch into the soil. See the Almanac’s Cosmos Growing Guide.
6. Amaranthus (Amaranthus caudatus)
For bouquets and fall adornment, amaranth can’t be beaten. ‘Love Lies Bleeding’ might be my favorite, and the color options, en masse, complement each other so well. Starting these lovelies indoors is easy, and they will easily self-sow if left to go to seed! Tuck a sunflower and some yarrow into a bouquet with amaranth, and you have a bountiful autumn centerpiece.
Sowing Tip: Cover very lightly with vermiculite or soilless mix after sowing and mist well. See the Almanac’s Guide to Growing Amaranth.
7. Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Along with Sunflower, Calendula is one of the quickest-growing flowers to bloom from seed in just about 2 months! A beautiful, heat-loving annual that holds up well as a cut flower or plant for a lively pop of color in the garden, Calendula will keep on blooming if you keep them deadheaded. We cut and dry the flower heads to use as an everlasting in dried arrangements, and this bright light also has excellent medicinal properties.
Sowing Tip: Seeds germinate easily, covered or uncovered. Keep moist until germination. See the Almanac’s Guide to Growing Calendula.
8. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
A cold-hardy workhorse on the farm, yarrow offers durability, productivity, and a beautiful range of pastel hues to choose from and is a favorite for bees and butterflies! Yarrow is versatile in its qualities in the garden. It is a great cut flower with medicinal properties that feed our pollinators and easily self-sows.
Sowing Tip: Seeds are started easily indoors about 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. See the Almanac’s Guide to Growing Yarrow.
9. Gomphrena, aka Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena haageana)
Once I started growing Gomphrena, I didn’t miss a season and added additional colors each year. The impact that these colorful orbs of beauty add to the landscape or a bouquet is invaluable—planted en masse in flowerpots would be just as stunning. As a flower, they work great as a filler and offer a great vase life. They dry well and can be used in floral wreaths or crafts.
Sowing Tip: Sprinkle vermiculite or light covering of soilless mix and mist after sowing.
10. Bachelor’s Button, aka Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)
Sweet as a button and with so much more color! This is a hardy annual flower that is cold-tolerant and will benefit from starting early indoors before the season really gets going and planted out as soon as the soil can be worked. Loved by pollinators, bachelor’s button comes in edible varieties and is a beautiful cut flower; it’s a great addition to your flower sowing routine. Seeds are large and easy to sow and tend to germinate prolifically.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-easy-flowers-grow-seed
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from storagegooleapis.com

       Sun is out, looks awesome out, and the temperature at 2:00 PM is 12F(-10C) so it feels a little bit warmer.  Again, tonight we are having below zero temperatures.  Yes, this is getting old.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Friday Jan 30 is having 84F(29C) and they are in the extreme heat, but I think it is a lot warmer other places then it is for them.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
I will be working with the Franklin Co 4-Hers in March during this, starting seeds.  I can’t say it enough don’t start too early.  That is all we are seeing in gardening is start your seeds.  It is very fun and awesome to see the little seed start to grow into a plant.  But we need to wait a little bit longer for that.  There is a chart in this article to start with the last frost date.  Have a look.  And enjoy this starting plants.   Sorry, this is lots of information but really no other way to let you know how to do this.  

Starting Seeds Indoors: How and When to Start Seeds Written By: Catherine Boeckmann
When do you start your seeds indoors? Sow too early, and the plants may be ready to leave their pots before it’s warm enough outside. Sow seeds too late, and they won’t have enough time to reach maturity. We’ll provide some tips, as well as a chart on how many weeks to sow indoors before the last spring frost.
The Hindi word for seed is bija, meaning containment of life. This is an apt description of these tiny miracles that contain everything needed to make a new plant. This time of year, we are up to our elbows in dirt, starting more seeds indoors each week!
Why We Start Seeds Indoors
There are many benefits to sowing seeds indoors:
You get a head start on the growing season, which can lead to more fruitful harvests. It’s truly necessary for a number of plants. Warm-season vegetables—such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant—can’t be planted too early in the spring, as the soil is too cool. In many regions (including New England and the Midwest), there are not enough growing days for those plants to get to harvest if they’re started outside. Starting seeds indoors allows you to gain a few precious weeks of growing time, which can make a difference. In warmer regions, starting seeds indoors can allow you to get in an extra round of crops (especially cool-season crops) before summer heat stifles growth.
When to Start Seeds Indoors
As a general rule, seeds are started indoors about 6 weeks prior to your last frost date.  During a cold spring, it’s better to delay sowing to ensure the soil temperature is warm enough than to be hasty and get disappointing results. 
Here are three tools to determine the best date to start your seeds where you live.
Read your seed packet. Most will list when the seeds should be started indoors (or outdoors). For example, it may say, “Start indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.” You can simply count back from your frost-free date.  NOTE from Becky:  Most frost-free dates for us are May 1st, but with my many years of doing this I used May 15th.  More than ½ of the time, we have that killing frost on May 15th. 
Which Seeds to Start Indoors?
Not all seeds should be started indoors. Most vegetables grow perfectly well when started outdoors and even prefer not to be transplanted. Ultimately, it’s important to consider how each type of vegetable grows in addition to where it will be growing.
 Crops best started indoors include broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and tomatoes.  Those with slower root development, like cauliflower, celery, eggplant, and peppers, should also be started indoors.
Tender vegetables like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers are very susceptible to the cold temperatures of spring, so it’s best to start them indoors and keep them safe from unpredictable weather.
Some plants truly resist transplanting. Root vegetables, like carrots, turnips, and beets, don’t like having their roots disturbed, so it’s safer to start their seeds outdoors in the ground rather than transplant them later on. Plants with long taproots also dislike being transplanted; examples include dill and parsley.
Finally, plants like radishes and peas are fast-growing and cold-tolerant, so putting them right in the ground makes sense!
Seed-Starting Preference by Plant
Plant  Start Indoors (prior to       
frost-free date)      
Artichoke      8 to 10 weeks         
Broccoli         4 to 6 weeks
Brussels Sprouts     4 to 6 weeks
Cabbage        4 to 6 weeks
Cauliflower  4 to 6 weeks
Celery            10 to 12 weeks      
Collards         4 to 6 weeks
Cucumbers   3 to 4 weeks
Eggplant        8 to 10 weeks         
Leeks          8 to 10 weeks
Lettuce          4 to 5 weeks
Peppers         8 weeks        
Tomatoes     6 to 8 weeks
How to Start Seeds: 3 Steps
For starting seeds, you only need a seed-starting mix, containers, and a strong light source
1. Choosing a Potting Mix
Let’s start with the potting mix. Generally, you will have no trouble using an all-purpose potting mix. Drainage is good, but if your potting mix seems to have a lot of big chunks of wood or rocks, we recommend sifting it through a screen before using it for seed starting. Seedlings’ roots will struggle in medium that’s not fine enough.
For very small or delicate seeds, we recommend using a seed-starting mix, which is a potting mix designed especially for starting seeds. We also like seed-starting mixes because they’re low in nutrients; the seed itself is already full of nutrients. Avoid peat-based mixes, if possible. Use more sustainable alternatives, such as coconut coir.
Do NOT use soil from outdoors. It’s often too heavy or compacted for seedlings’ roots and may contain pests or diseases!
2. Choosing a Container
You can sow into pots, plug trays, or recycled containers. Each has its advantages:
Sowing many seeds into a large pot is space efficient, as the young seedlings take up less space initially. It’s a more efficient use of seeds, too, because you can germinate many seeds in a pot and then transfer every seedling into its own pot or plug. Sowing into a single container can also be useful for sowing very tiny seeds such as basil or easy-to-transplant flower seeds. For easy, cool-season crops—everything from onions to celery to cabbage—you can sow multiple seeds in the same container.
 Plug trays, on the other hand, are flatter containers with individual pockets (or “cells”) for each seed. They remove the need to transfer seedlings as often, minimizing root disturbance. Simply sow seeds into the plugs, then grow them until it’s time to plant, though they may need transplanting into bigger plugs or pots if the roots fill their plugs before it’s time to plant them outside. Two or more seeds are usually sown per plug, and then the germinated seedlings are either left to grow as a cluster or thinned out to leave the strongest seedling in each plug. Trays with smaller plugs suit most leafy greens and radishes, especially if they will be transplanted promptly (within 3 or 4 weeks of sowing). We also like this method for cluster-grown crops such as beets, beetroot, and salad onions.
 Recycled containers: We often repurpose food containers such as yogurt cups, sour cream containers, or plastic muffin trays as seed-starting containers. Clean them out and poke a few drainage holes in the undersides. They are generally large enough to house one or two small seedlings for a few weeks. Eventually, seedlings will need to be transplanted into their own pots.
Well-made containers and trays of rigid plastic can potentially last for many years, but if you want to avoid plastic, look for alternatives made of biodegradable fiber.
3. Sowing in the Pot
If sowing in a pot, fill it to the brim with potting mix, then tamp it down to a firm level. It’s hard to over-firm, and seedlings prefer plenty of potting mix to sustain them. If you are using plug trays, fill the plug trays right to the top, then tamp down to settle. Top with a little more of the mix, then brush off the excess.      
 Use your finger or the eraser-end of a pencil to poke planting holes in the mix. Be sure to sow the seeds at the depth listed on the seed packet. Many seeds can be gently pressed into the medium with your fingers, too. When choosing which seeds to plant, choose the largest, healthiest-looking seeds in the packet for the best chance at germination. Many vegetables, including common crops such as salad greens, onions, beets, peas, and radishes, may be sown in pinches of three to five seeds per plug for planting as a cluster of seedlings (to be later thinned as they grow). Larger seeds, like beans, are sown individually into deeper holes made with a finger, pencil, or dibber (a special seed-sowing tool).       
 Once done with sowing, cover the seeds with potting mix so that they’re at the right depth (as listed on the seed packet).       
 Label your sowings, especially different varieties of the same type of plant. This is important! You might think you’ll remember, but it’s easy to get confused, particularly if you’ve got seedlings with similar leaves (such as multiple varieties of tomatoes). Note the date of sowing and the variety.       
 Water the pots or trays carefully using a watering can fitted with a fine sprinkling rose or a clean turkey baster. A pitcher may let the water out too forcefully, dislodging the seeds. A mist sprayer is gentle but can take a long time to actually get the potting mix properly saturated. After watering, leave the medium to drain through from the surface and then repeat. You really want to wet the mix at the beginning so that seeds are woken up from their slumber! Don’t worry; if it’s a good mix, it’s hard to overwater; any excess will just drain out of the bottom.
Tips to Speed Up Germination
We all want to see those seedlings push through quickly! The best way to achieve that is to give your seeds as close to ideal conditions as possible, which usually means a little warmth.
The seed packet should indicate the ideal germination temperature. In most instances, a tucked-away corner of a warm room should work just fine.
To further speed up germination, you could use a heating pad to warm the medium under your seedlings. Just leave enough space between it and your seedlings so you don’t bake them!
Keep the potting mix from drying out and conditions warm by loosely covering the plug tray or pot with plastic wrap; poke a few holes in the plastic with a toothpick for ventilation; mold growth can occur if containers are not allowed to “breathe.”
After about half of the seedlings have sprouted, remove them from the humidity dome or take off the plastic covering; then move the seedlings to somewhere with good, strong light.
Hang the lights so they can be adjusted to keep them 4 inches above the plants as they grow.
Add Grow Lights
Poor light levels are often the killer in wintertime, rather than cold, at least for cool-season crops. So, if it’s early in the season and you don’t have a suitable outdoor protected structure such as a greenhouse or cold frame, it might be worth investing in full-spectrum grow lights.
Placing seedlings on a windowsill rarely gives the same light as outdoors. You can try turning seedlings daily to help them grow more upright, but more often than not, the result is leggy seedlings that are bent in all directions and will struggle to recover.
Grow lights don’t need to be anything fancy. An LED or fluorescent light fixture that’s “full-spectrum” (i.e., produces light in the full range of the visible spectrum—like the Sun) can usually be found for under $40 at a local hardware or department store.
The lamp unit can be raised up and down with inexpensive grow lights. Ideally, you want the lights to be about 4 to 6 inches above the canopy of the seedlings. That’s far enough above not to be too warm but to give a good, strong light. Move the lamp unit up as the plants grow and need more space.
Up to 16 hours a day of light is fine. In fact, in most cases, the longer you leave them on, the quicker seedlings will grow, so this is a good way to catch up on growth early in the season. (Note that plants do need a period of darkness, too, so don’t leave your lights on 24/7!) Many gardeners switch lights on when getting up in the morning and then switch them off when heading to bed, which means they’re on for around 15 to 16 hours. Or, you could put your grow lights on a timer.
Plants can move from grow lights to outdoors or under protection outside when it’s either warm enough or, more usually, for cool-season crops once the outdoor light levels have improved slightly.
Next Step: Transfer Seedlings
After you start your seedlings, and they have two pairs of leaves, you’ll often need to transplant them into their own pots. Don’t delay transplanting your seedlings, as you don’t want them to become overcrowded, which can cause issues, such as legginess or disease.
To transplant seedlings, fill new pots with potting mix; at this stage, an all-purpose or multipurpose potting mix is ideal. Make your planting holes, then carefully remove the seedlings from their nursery pots. If you aren’t transferring all the seedlings, lift out only what you need.
Separate the seedlings, then transfer them to their planting holes. Only ever handle seedlings by their leaves; if you damage or crush the fragile stem or roots, the seedlings are done for!
Try to avoid damaging the roots as much as possible, too. One way to do this is to bring along as much of the potting mix that’s around the roots as you can. This is one reason, in fact, why working with really young, small seedlings is often better: They are really quick-growing, and their roots are nowhere near as extensive as more established seedlings, so there’s less root to damage.
You can set seedlings deeper than they had been growing, especially if they are slightly leggy. This helps support their stems and get them back on track.
Firm in around seedlings. Once you’re done, gently water the seedlings with a watering can. Don’t worry if the seedlings get a little flattened; they’ll soon recover.
Check your seedlings and plants regularly for moisture. Push a thumb into the potting mix or simply lift the pot up to gauge how heavy it is. You’ll get a feel for this with more experience, but the heavier it is, the more water it will contain and the less likely it needs watering.       NOTE from Becky:  At this point, when the seeds are growing, I want some time for them to have a cooler time to grow like at night.  That is what makes for that thick stock. You need to move the plants to an area that is 50-55 degrees, not the 70-75 in your house.  This hint isn’t ever talked about.  We keep a cool greenhouse at night, and many years ago Larry Swift( grower of many kinds of wholesale plants, Swift’s Greenhouse, Gilman, Iowa ) stopped in with a delivery, and he noticed the tomatoes with the nice thick stock.  He said that is because you have it cool at night.      
Ready for Outdoors? Harden Off!
Seedlings of tender crops must be gradually introduced to outdoor conditions before they are planted in the garden, a process known as “hardening off.” Suddenly moving plants from a stable indoor environment to one with wide variations in temperature, light, and wind can seriously weaken—or kill—plants!
 For most plants, start hardening off about 7 to 10 days before the final frost date for your area. Check our Planting Calendar for safe dates to plant outside and work back from there. Withhold fertilizer and water them a little less often during this period.
Here’s how to harden off your seedlings:
About 7 to 10 days before transplanting, set the seedlings outdoors in dappled shade for a short time each day. Make sure the spot is sheltered from winds.
Start with an hour a day, then gradually extend the amount of time that plants are outside until they’re staying out all day.
Keep the growing medium moist at all times during this period. Dry air and spring breezes can result in rapid transpiration. If possible, transplant on overcast days or in the early morning when the Sun won’t be too harsh.
Cool-season crops don’t really need as much hardening. Crops such as lettuce, onions, beets, or peas can go straight outside as soon as the ground is ready, meaning that the soil is no longer cold and wet and has reached around 50ºF (10ºC). But warm-season crops such as tomatoes and peppers will need to acclimate.
A great way to toughen up plants—whether indoors or under cover in a greenhouse or cold frame—is to run your fingers lightly over the foliage. This mimics wind to create sturdier plants. Indoors, you could also use a fan.
If outdoor conditions allow, plant seedlings while they are still quite young—sometimes as soon as 3 to 4 weeks after first sowing. Younger seedlings tend to establish quicker than those that have become root-bound in their containers.
If you’re not able to be around to bring your seedlings back and forth from the outdoors, another option is to place your seedlings into a cold frame and gradually increase the amount of ventilation by opening vents progressively wider each day. Make sure to shut them down completely before dark. (See how to make a cold frame for cold-weather protection.)
Final Thoughts and Tips
Be seed-savvy. Obtain seed catalogs from several companies and compare their offerings and prices. Some of the regional companies may carry varieties that are better suited to your area.
Make a list of what you’d like to grow. A good rule of thumb is to imagine your garden one-quarter the size that it really is. This allows for good spacing practices!
Experienced gardeners are always prepared for some losses. Successful gardening depends on so many factors. Is the season unusually warm or cold this year? Are your first seedlings going to be eaten by pests like slugs, birds, or rabbits? That’s why it’s a good idea to sow seeds in small batches a few weeks apart.
If you’re starting out, it’s worth beginning a little early because losing those seedlings doesn’t matter so much; you can always sow more!
If you have extra seeds that you’ll be pouring back into the packet, do this over the pot you’ve just sown. That way, if you drop any, they’ll end up sown with the right batch of seeds rather than being wasted or mixed up in the spare potting mix!
Many quick-growing crops are harvested throughout the growing season. Take lettuce or radishes as an example. Sow seeds every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, and that way, you can look forward to a succession of harvests rather than them all coming at once. That’s smart garden planning!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/starting-seeds-indoors
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse