images from pinterest.de 

      Good morning:  We had white ( snow) on our roads and on the grass.  The sun is out but the temperature is only 21 F ( -6C).  Only melting where the road crews put out sand.   But better than 8 F (-13 C) on Sunday morning.   Dec 2nd and we are having a touch of winter.  We burn wood for the house, shop and greenhouse so Larry has been working up wood since we got back from Australia.  He has cut lots of big logs into big rounds. Then from the big rounds he will put them in the splitter.  We have three outdoor wood burning stoves.  One at the shop also burns waste oil that heats up the water that goes thru a radiator for shop heat, then the water is pumped to the greenhouse wood stove to heat up water with wood and then pumped thru the greenhouse back to waste oil outdoor furnace to heat up with waste oil and starts the rotation again thru the 2nd outdoor stove. By adding the waste oil outdoor furnace he has cut down the amount of wood by 1/3, so that is helpful.    We have one at the house that heats up our hot water and the house with hot water that the outdoor stove heats up. So yes, it takes lots of wood for this project.  As he would say it is his exercise program. 

What I just learned from this article is  After repotting, don’t water the plant for a week or so. Wait at least a month before fertilizing so as not to burn fresh roots accidentally.  I have many to repot and I would love to be out in the greenhouse doing that now, but still working on plant plug order.  With the snow on the ground, cold temperatures and the sun is out the temperature in the greenhouse is at 60F.(15.5C). 
If you have a jade at home, here is how to grow more of them and it is really easy. 

Growing Jade Plants: Lighting, Watering, Repotting, Propogation, and Pests  by Catherine Boeckmann
Jade plants are succulent houseplants, which makes them fairly resilient. Plus, they’re capable of living a long, long time with proper care. See how to care for your jade plant as well as how to easily propagate a jade plant from a spare leaf.
About Jade Plants
With their thick, woody stems and oval-shaped leaves, jade plants have a miniature, tree-like appearance that makes them very appealing for decorative houseplants. They live for a very long time, often passed down from generation to generation, and reach heights of 3 feet or more when grown indoors.
Jade plants adapt well to most homes’ warm, dry conditions. Keeping the plant watered during the growing season (spring, summer) and drier during the dormant season (fall, winter) is essential. However, even during the growing season, the soil should be allowed to dry out thoroughly between waterings, as jade is very susceptible to rot.
Jade plants may be grown outdoors as landscape plants in areas with a mild, dry climate year-round (typically Zone 10 and warmer). They are very susceptible to cold damage, so in locations where temperatures get to freezing or below, it’s best to grow jade in containers and take them indoors when it gets below 50°F (10°C).
Jade plants also make fantastic bonsai!
How to Plant Jade Plants
Choose a wide and sturdy pot with a moderate depth, as jade plants tend to grow top-heavy and fall over.
Use soil that will drain thoroughly, as excessive moisture may promote fungal diseases like root rot. An all-purpose potting mix will work, though you will want to mix in additional perlite to improve drainage. A 2:1 ratio of potting mix to perlite is great. Alternatively, use a premade succulent or cacti potting mix.
After planting a jade plant, don’t water it right away. Waiting anywhere from several days to a week before watering lets the roots settle and recover from any damage.
How to Start a Jade Plant from a Leaf or Stem-Cutting
As a succulent, jade plants are very easy to start from single leaves or cuttings. A stem cutting is a great method when a branch of your jade plant happens to fall off. Just put that cutting in the soil, and you have a new baby plant or a gift plant! If you have time, however, you can propagate from a single leaf!
Propagate before the weather gets cool. And make sure you start with a well-established plant.
For a stem cutting, ensure you’re using clean clippers or scissors to take your cutting, which must be 3 to 4 inches long. If you’re using a leaf, it must be the complete leaf, that includes the small pointy bit that breaks off from the stem.
Once you have your leaf or cutting, allow it to sit for several days in a warm place; a callous will form over the cut area, helping to prevent rot and encourage rooting.
Gather your pot and a well-draining potting mix. Use soil that is slightly moist but not wet.
Lay the leaf on top of the soil horizontally, covering the cut end with some of the soil. If you have a stem cutting, place it upright in the soil (prop it up with a few small rocks or toothpicks if it won’t stand on its own).
Place the pot in a warm place with bright, indirect light. Do not water.
After a week or two, the leaf or cutting will start sending out roots. Give the plant a gentle poke or tug a week or so after that to see if it has rooted itself in place. If it hasn’t, wait a bit longer, testing it (gently!) every few days.
Once the plant seems to be firmly rooted, water it deeply and carefully. Use something like a turkey baster to gently water the plant without disturbing the roots too much. Make sure that you don’t just get the surface layer of the soil wet, as you want to encourage the roots to grow downward for water, not towards the surface.
Let the soil dry out between waterings and keep the plant out of intense direct sunlight until it is well established.
Jade plants should receive at least 6 hours of bright light each day. Young plants should be kept in bright, indirect sunlight; large, well-established jade plants can handle more direct sunlight.
Kitchens and offices with south-facing windows are typically great spots with just enough light, as are western-facing windows.
Jade plants that are kept in low light can become leggy and top-heavy, making them susceptible to damage if they fall over, or become unable to support their own branches!
Temperature
Jade plants grow best at room temperature (65° to 75°F / 18° to 24°C), but prefer slightly cooler temperatures at night and in the winter (down to 55°F / 13°C).
Note: Jade plants are not frost tolerant, so if you keep yours outdoors during the summer, be sure to bring it inside once temperatures fall to around 50°F (10°C) in autumn.
During winter, move jade plants away from cold windows and keep them out of drafty areas. If exposed to cold temps, jade plants may drop their leaves.
Watering
Watering jade plants correctly is very important! Improper watering is the number one issue that most people experience with their jade plants.
When the plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it will require more water than at other times of the year. Water jade plants deeply (meaning that the soil gets sufficiently moistened throughout—not just at the surface), then wait until the soil has mostly dried out before you water it again. This means that you could end up watering it once a week or once a month—it depends entirely on how quickly the soil dries out in the environment where you keep your plant.
The plant may go dormant in the fall and winter, causing it to slow or pause growth entirely. During this time, it won’t need much water. Water it less often than in the spring and summer, allowing the soil to dry out fully between waterings. Large, well-established jades may not need more than one or two waterings throughout their entire dormancy period.
Try to avoid splashing water on the leaves while watering, as this can expose them to rot in a humid environment.
Jade plants can be sensitive to salts in tap water, so water with filtered or distilled water if your tap water is not ideal.
If the plant starts to drop its leaves, if the leaves look shriveled, or if brown spots appear on the leaves, it indicates that the plant needs MORE water.
If leaves become squishy and waterlogged, the plant is getting TOO MUCH water.
Fertilizing
Jade plants don’t require high levels of nutrients and should be fed sparingly. Use a diluted mix of a standard liquid houseplant fertilizer or a fertilizer made for cacti and succulents.
If you prefer using your own fertilizer, you can use our Organic Homemade Plant Fertilizer.
Repotting Jade Plants
Jade plants don’t mind being root-bound in a small pot. In fact, keeping them root-bound will keep the jade smaller and more manageable.
Repot young jade plants once every 2 to 3 years to encourage growth. With older jade, repot once every 4 to 5 years or as necessary.
Transplant in the early spring, just before the growing season begins.
After repotting, don’t water the plant for a week or so. Wait at least a month before fertilizing so as not to burn fresh roots accidentally.
Wit and Wisdom
To persuade a jade plant to flower, keep it root-bound in a small pot and hold back water. Cooler temperatures in the winter promote blooming, too.
Jade plants are one of several plants with the nickname “money plant” and are seen by some as a sign of good luck and prosperity.
Due to their long lifespans and resiliency, jade plants make fantastic gifts that can last a lifetime and be passed from generation to generation.
Susan Mahr of the University of Wisconsin–Madison tells us, “The Khoi and other Africans used the roots for food, grated and cooked, eaten with thick milk. They also used the leaves for medicinal purposes.”
Pests/Diseases
Mealybugs or scale may hide under stems and leaves. To remove the pests, use a spray bottle of water or wipe the insects off gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or cotton swab. Repeated applications will be necessary to remove the pests’ offspring. If the plant is too heavily infested, it may be better to take a clean cutting from it and start anew.
Powdery mildew can be a problem but is fairly uncommon indoors.
Root rot is caused by excessive moisture in the soil. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Shriveled or wrinkled leaves are signs of a thirsty plant in need of more frequent or deeper waterings.
Waterlogged and squishy leaves indicate that the plant is getting too much water.
Leaf drop is a symptom of watering issues, too.
Taken  from https://www.almanac.com/plant/jade-plants till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365   

image from schoolphotoproject 

Here we go Thanksgiving week.  Temperature is 31F.(-.55 C)  high today of not much warm up 32F( 0C), low tonight of 19F(-7.2C).  Looking ahead to Thanksgiving high will be 27F(-2.7C) with a low of 9F( -12.7C).  We were fine as the temperature was at the lowest only 25F ( -4.4C), when we were in Australia.   Now for the ones that are looking at my posting from Australia now you realize we didn’t consider that cold.  But 10 days after we left Australia, it was 100F (37.8C).  So quickly it got warm for them.  They are at the end of their spring and summer will be starting.  All in perspective.  Stay warm, stay safe, and for some stay cool. 

Are Sweet Potatoes the Healthiest Vegetable?  By Catherine Boeckmann
Twenty years ago, our Almanac declared sweet potatoes to be the “healthiest vegetable of them all.” This fleshy root vegetable is indeed highly nutritional and low in calories, and, for the chef, it is easier than pie to use.
Sweet Potato Facts and Health Benefits
Did you know that before George Washington became a general and the first U.S. President, he was a sweet potato farmer? These tasty tuberous vegetables are native to the Americas and are a great addition to your diet. Here are just a few fun facts about the sweet potato and its myriad benefits:
A Sweet Potato is not a Potato … Nor a Yam
“There is one thing that a sweet potato is not. And that is a potato.” A sweet potato is a root. Potatoes are tubers. Since sweet potatoes are unrelated to white potatoes, the two should not be used as substitutes when cooking.
The orange-fleshed sweet potato is often called a yam. Again, the two are unrelated. True yams are starchy, underground tubers that likely originated in Africa.
#1 Most Nutritious Veggie?
Sweet potatoes are the #1 most nutritional vegetable, with more nutrients than even spinach or broccoli!
Benefits of the sweet potato include high levels of Vitamins A and C, iron, potassium, and dietary fiber.
Especially important is the high percentage of beta-carotene found in sweet potatoes. This is converted into Vitamin A, which has the ability to reduce the risk of certain cancers.
Sweet potatoes have almost no fat, which also makes them great for those watching their weight. With their low carbohydrate content and high fiber content, sweet potatoes keep you full for longer and give you all the essential nutrients.
Easy to Grow in the Garden
Sweet potatoes aren’t just nutritious but also fairly easy to grow and harvest.
The tropical origin of the plant means that it is drought- and heat-tolerant and susceptible to very few pests and diseases. Sweet potatoes grow best in the southern United States or other warm parts of the country, as the crop cannot tolerate the cold.
However, sweet potatoes can be cultivated in northern climates if planted after the soil has warmed in the spring and harvested before the first frost in the fall.
Sweet Potatoes in the Kitchen
Do NOT refrigerate sweet potatoes unless they have already been cooked. Refrigeration prior to cooking will harden the core of the vegetable, create sunken spots, and create an off taste. This will lead the vegetable to spoil much faster than at if it had been at room temperature.
Store sweet potatoes in a dry, cool place (55–60°F). They can keep for weeks. Do not wash sweet potatoes until you plan to use them; any moisture promotes spoilage.
Sweet potatoes taste best when baked. They can be scrubbed, poked with a fork, and baked at 400°F for 35 minutes to an hour, until they give a little when you squeeze them.
Our Favorite Sweet Potato Recipes
Sweet potatoes are not only delicious but also easy to cook and very versatile. Turn sweet potatoes into fries or chips. Bake or boil them to make a side for meat dishes. Sauté them along with other vegetables.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/sweet-potato-facts-and-health-benefits
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337   cell 641-903-9365

This is a gum tree in Evelyn and Tom's block (which to us it is an acreage). She planted it in the 30 years that they have lived there.  

Gum tree that is older.  Noticed that the bark is coming off.  That is what I noticed thinking the tree was dead, but it is well.  

This is a gum tree in the Sale Botanical Garden.  Favorite place for kids to play on and it is still alive.  

​What the sign says at the botanical garden.
Southern Blue Gum Eucalyptus Globulus
This stately eucalypt is widespread from Tasmania to Southern New South Wales coast. In the mid-19th century it was believed that plants Blue Gum in swampy areas had beneficial effects of the reduction of fever’s and  malaria, which was very serious and could be fatal conditions in those times. The hardwood of the Blue Gum also found its way overseas to be used in the expansions of the railroads.
It is estimated that this specimen was planted around 1870’s when it was popular to use indigenous trees alongside pines and other exotic trees.   

      To remove bark, the Aboriginal people cut an outline of the shape they wanted using stone axes or, once Europeans had arrived, steel axes. The bark was then levered off. Sometimes the axe marks made by Aboriginal people are still visible on the sapwood of the tree, but usually the marks will be hidden because the bark has grown back. The amount of bark regrowth may help you tell the age of the scar. Sometimes, if the scar is very old, it will be completely covered by regrowth.  This scarred tree is a canoed scarring on trees at the Murray River. 
I looked up the Murray River and this is what I found.  The Murray River is located in south-eastern Australia, and is the longest river in Australia, at 2,508 kilometers. Starting in the Australian Alps, it passes from the province of South Australia and then forms the border between Victoria and New South Wales. It is also generally considered the third longest river on earth, behind both the Amazon and the Nile rivers.  image from government photo 

​The canoe picture is from South Australia with Aboriginal men in a bark canoe 1870.  Harry Godson collection 

           Here is my weekly writing about our “Our Trip Down Under” Today I want to talk about trees, Southern Blue Gum tree.  It was the first tree that we noticed as they were big, and the bark was off of them, so you thought they were dying.  But that is far from what they are.   “Blue Gum Tree” Southern Blue gum the stately eucalypt is widespread from Tasmania from southern New South Wales.

In the mid-19th century, it was believed that planting Blue Guma in swampy areas had beneficial effects of the reduction of fevers and malaria which were serious and could be fatal conditions in those times    The hardwood of the Blue Gum also found it way overseas to be used in the expansion of the railroad. Information from Sale Botanical Gardens. It is estimated that this specimen was treated planted around the 1870’s when it was popular to us indigenous trees alongside pines and other exotic trees.

Eucalyptus globulus subsp. globulus, commonly known as the Tasmanian blue gum, southern blue gum, or blue gum,[2] is a subspecies of tree that is endemic to southeastern Australia. It has mostly smooth bark with some persistent slabs of old bark at the base, juvenile leaves with one glaucous side, glossy, lance-shaped adult leaves, warty flower buds arranged singly in leaf axils, white flowers and hemispherical to conical fruit that is more or less square in cross-section.

Eucalyptus globulus subsp. globulus is a tree that typically grows to a height of 70 m (230 ft) and forms a lignotuber. The bark is mostly smooth, shedding in long strips to leave a white or greyish surface. There is sometimes rough, partially shed bark at the base of the trunk and ribbons of shedding bark in the upper branches.

Flowering occurs between May and January and the flowers are white. The fruit is a woody, sessile, hemispherical to conical capsule, square in cross-section, 10–15 mm (0.39–0.59 in) long and 14–27 mm (0.55–1.06 in) wide with four longitudinal ridges and the valves at about rim level.
Tasmanian blue gum was first formally described in 1800 This blue gum grows in woodland and forest in moist valleys in Victoria and Tasmania, including on Flinders and King Islands. It is common in lowland areas of Tasmania but is only found in the far south of Victoria, including in places like Port Franklin and Wilsons Promontory.

Tallest specimens in 2021 and 80 metre tall specimen, regarded as being the largest known remaining Tasmanian blue gum and estimated as being 500 years old, was discovered in the Huon Valley, in a coup originally slated for logging in 2023.
 
These trees have such a history for the Aboriginal’s.  They are old trees that need to be realized what they have done for this area of Australia. 

We went to an Aboriginal Museum to see how they lived.   We saw pictures of these trees. We went on a boat tour at Sale, and we saw the trees that they called Scarred tree.
A scarred tree or scar tree, also known as a canoe tree and shield tree, is a tree which has had bark removed by Aboriginal Australians for the creation of bark canoes, shelters, weapons such as shields, tools, traps, containers (such as coolamons), or other artefacts. Carved trees may also be created as a form of artistic and spiritual expression by some Aboriginal peoples, to mark sites of significance such as burial sites. Trees in some areas are culturally modified in other ways that change their form, including "trees-in-trees".

Bark was removed by making deep cuts in a tree with a stone pickaxe or other similar tool. The area of bark removed is typically regular in shape, often with parallel sides and slightly pointed or rounded ends, and the scar usually stops above ground level. Australian native Eucalypt species such as box and red gum (especially in Victoria), swamp mahogany, river box, or whichever species are native in the area. Scars remain in trees that are often over 200 years old. Sometimes there is exposed sapwood at the base or at the top of the scar, showing axe cuts.

Aboriginal people removed bark from trees to make things like canoes, containers and shields, as well as to build temporary shelters. Sometimes they cut toe holds for ease of climbing, with the trees used as lookouts or to hunt for bush foods.[1] Wrapping meat or seafood in layers of moistened paperbark (melaleuca) and nestling it into the hot coals is one of traditional aboriginal way of cooking.

Bark canoes were mainly used for fishing or crossing rivers or lakes rather than long journeys. They were usually propelled by punting with a long stick.
To remove bark, the Aboriginal people cut an outline of the shape they wanted using stone axes or, once Europeans had arrived, steel axes. The bark was then levered off. Sometimes the axe marks made by Aboriginal people are still visible on the sapwood of the tree, but usually the marks will be hidden because the bark has grown back. The amount of bark regrowth may help you tell the age of the scar. Sometimes, if the scar is very old, it will be completely covered by regrowth.  This scarred tree is a canoe scarring on trees at the Murray River. 

I looked up the Murray River and this is what I found.  The Murray River is in south-eastern Australia, and is the longest river in Australia, at 2,508 kilometers. Starting in the Australian Alps, it passes from the province of South Australia and then forms the border between Victoria and New South Wales. It is also generally considered the third longest river on earth, behind both the Amazon and the Nile rivers.

The canoe picture is from South Australia with Aboriginal men in a bark canoe 1870. 
What history of these trees are for the area.  Something you didn’t realize that the Aboriginal’s needed canoes.  Most of Australia is desert and barren, but where Evelyn and Tom live it is so different with water around them in rivers, creeks, lakes and then the ocean.  
information from Scarred tree - Wikipedia
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from mydomaine.com

      Good morning, the sun is out, and it was reported we would have clouds all day.  It makes being outside a little better with the sun but….it is cold with the wind and the lower temperatures.  The temperature at 9:15 AM is 31F( -5.5C) but windchill makes it feel like 17F (-8 C), tonight a low of 27F ( -3C), high today of only 33F ( -5.5C).  Below normal temperatures and gives us a taste of what winter will be like.  Dress warm, stay warm, and stay safe. 

I have seen this Palm houseplant.  Looks like one I would like because of the low watering.  Finding these houseplants is another hard thing to do.  Good luck finding one and enjoy if you have one. 

Growing Ponytail Palm Houseplants: Watering, Lighting, Repotting, and Pests by Catherine Boeckmann
Ponytail palms, or elephant foot palms, are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are straightforward to grow—provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.
About Ponytail Palms
Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true “palm.” In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).
The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed “stump,” which tapers off into a thinner stem. As the plant ages, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop from the top of the stem. Indoors, the leaves can reach up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.
In its native environment (eastern Mexico), the entire plant has been known to reach up to 30 feet in height! However, ponytail palms grown in gardens as landscape plants don’t usually reach more than 10 feet tall.
Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet. However, as Susan Mahr of the University of Wisconsin-Madison explains, “In containers, ponytail palms will grow slower than if in the ground, and the plants will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Moving it to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. They can be very long-lived and can easily outlive their owners. However, older plants may be difficult to manage because of sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.”
Care of this plant is generally simple; the most common difficulty is adapting your watering habits to its needs!
Choosing Soil and a Pot
Use a fast-draining soil, such as a cacti and succulent potting mix. If you already have potting soil, sand, and perlite on hand, you can create your own desert soil mixture: Mix 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part sand.
Select a pot with a hole in the bottom so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moist soil for very long.
Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the soil more quickly (a good thing for cacti and succulents).
How to Care for Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms prefer to have as much light as possible, so place the plant in a bright location. Bright, indirect sunlight is best.
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry completely before re-watering. During the winter, only water occasionally.
To water, soak the soil and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.
Fertilize in the spring with a cacti/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.
Average room temperature is acceptable for most of the year, but to replicate the natural dormancy cycle, keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50-55°F / 10-13°C).
Don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night during winter, as freezing temperatures can severely damage it.
Repotting a Ponytail Palm
Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm need.
Moving the plant to a larger pot will allow it to grow in height and girth. However, older plants may become challenging to manage due to their sheer size and weight if they are not kept at a smaller size.
When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the pot’s rim.
Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.
Propagation
Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a tiny baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply some rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root.
Wit and Wisdom
The plant’s unusual shape and coloration have granted it another strange nickname: the Elephant’s Foot Palm.
Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach.
Pests/Diseases
Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.
Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.
Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of overfertilizing or underwatering, so adjust your husbandry practices appropriately. They can also indicate that the plant is getting too much direct sunlight and too little water.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/ponytail-palms
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

First picture is Easter, second picture is Christmas, third picture is Thanksgiving image from thegardeningcook.com 

      Good morning, cloudy and there was fog earlier this morning?  Temperature is 37 F (3 C) at 8:30 AM high today of 60F (16 C) and low tonight of 38F (4 C) Australia over the weekend was having 34C so that would 94 F.  They are warming up during their spring as we are cooling down as our fall. 
On Thursday afternoon, I had carpel tunnel surgery on my right hand at Belmond through Iowa Specialty Hospital.  It was done as a local, so I was awake, but it was a good experience. Glad I didn’t have to wake up in the recovery room which is always hard.   I am only taking Tylenol now after just one pain pill.  I don’t like the effect of pain pills. It is sore at times, but I think it is a sign of healing.   2 weeks I get the stitches out so should be a fast recovery.  I hope to continue to work on bookwork, cleaning and cooking.  I was having lots of tingling in my fingers and in the last week the whole hand was hurting.  It will be good.  Thanks to the staff for help to fix this.   Now here is information about holiday cactus?  Which ones are you growing? 
​
What is the difference between holiday cactus varieties?  By Robin Sweetser
Did you know that there are Easter, Thanksgiving, AND Christmas cacti? How can you tell the difference among these holiday cacti?
Holiday cacti such as the Christmas cactus, Thanksgiving cactus, and Easter cactus are all hybrids of Brazilian forest cacti.
Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are members of the genus Schlumbergera.
Easter cactus is in the genus Rhipsalidopsis, which grows in drier forests.
The holiday designations reflect when the different cacti bloom in North America.
Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is the long-lived plant our grandmothers grew. I have a plant that came from one my mother-in-law grew from a cutting she received over 70 years ago! They are the ultimate pass-along plant since they are so easy to root. Just pinch off a “Y” shaped piece from one of the branches and stick it in a pot of sterile soil or vermiculite. It will root in no time.
Thanksgiving Cactus
Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) typically blooms between mid-November and late December, sometimes through January. Its leaf segments are square-shaped with pointed hooks on one end and pincer-shaped along the sides, giving rise to its common name, “crab cactus.” It is native to Brazil, where its 2- to 3-inch–long flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds.
Easter Cactus
If you find that your holiday cactus has spring flowers, it may very well be an Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri), which blooms in late winter and spring, often from March until May.
Also called a “Spring Cactus,” the Easter cactus has flared, trumpet-shaped flowers with pointy petals, which are usually pink, but can also come in red, orange, and other cherry colors. Their star-shaped petals open at sunrise and close at sunset, lasting for several weeks. They bear flat, succulent leaf segments.
More Ways to Tell a Christmas Cactus from a Thanksgiving Cactus
Many of the available plants are hybrid crosses of Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, such as S. x buckleyi (a hybrid of S. russelliana x S. truncata), and come in a rainbow of exotic colors, including orange, purple, yellow, red, pink, white, and two-tones.
Look at their bloom color and the way the flower blooms:
The Christmas cactus has hanging flowers in shades of magenta and blooms, of course, near Christmas. The flowering range is late November through early February.
The Thanksgiving cactus has flowers that face outwards, and the plant comes in various colors. This plant blooms nearer to Thanksgiving than the Christmas cactus. It can start flowering in very late October or in November.
They also have different stems:
The true Christmas cactus has a flattened stem segment with smooth, scalloped edges.
The Thanksgiving cactus has a very toothy stem with two to four pointed teeth.
While the Christmas cactus stems hang down like a pendant, the Thanksgiving cactus has stems that grow upright at first and then arch.
Most nurseries and stores actually sell the Thanksgiving cactus (not the Christmas cactus) because it blooms around American Thanksgiving. The Christmas cactus is also more difficult to ship as the stems are more fragile and often break.
Caring For Your Holiday Cactus
The holiday cactus is not your typical cactus. We are all familiar with the desert cactus, but the holiday plant is a forest cactus—an epiphyte that lives in decomposing leaf litter found in the forks and on the branches of trees in tropical rainforests of South America.
The conditions in our houses are nothing like their native rainforest homes, but still, they do fine in normal household temperatures of 65–70°F, with a drop at night to 55–60°F. They will need protection when temperatures drop below 40°F.
They like their forest floor, so give acidic, well-draining soils to these cacti. Use a cactus mix and add perlite, vermiculite, and orchid bark.
They like bright light but not direct sun; an east or west window is perfect. If the leaves turn yellow, it means they are getting too much light. If put outdoors in the warmer months, keep them under a shade tree or patio. Not in full sun.
Let the plants dry out between waterings by watering them when the top 2 inches of the soil feels dry. Do not overwater; this is the number one reason for their demise in our homes. Neglect is better than overwatering! You could get a hydrometer to help you know when to water. Don’t let them sit in water because they will rot if they get too waterlogged!
Misting the plants frequently helps increase humidity.
Optional: Fertilize them with an all-purpose fertilizer such as a Miracle Grow Tomato water-soluble fertilizer (1 tablespoon to a gallon of non-chlorinated water). Feed two times a month while the plant is actively growing (usually spring and summer).
How to Keep Holiday Cactus Blooming
Short days and cool nights are the keys to getting your holiday cactus to blossom. They need 13 hours of darkness and nights at 50–55°F for at least 1 to 2 months before they will set buds. I put some of my plants outside all summer and wait until the nights drop below 50°F before bringing them in for the fall and winter. They usually bud right up and start to bloom after that. The plants that grow in my kitchen get no special treatment and blossom just as well. Go figure!
The plants flower best when slightly potbound, so only repot them if they are really crowded. Unlike many holiday plants, they are nontoxic to cats and dogs, so don’t be afraid to bring one home for the holidays!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/christmas-cactus-thanksgiving-cactus-or-easter-cactus
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from austraila247.info

image from gpb.org

bakery at Sale, Victoria, Australia 

image of my lemon tart 

      It is cloudy, windy and rain coming in this afternoon.  So not as nice as the last couple of days.  I have more to clean up front of the greenhouse, and then put in black tables.  I got the last of the wagons unplanted yesterday.  Moved in white tables and while cleaning up the front.  For some reason, the floor gets dirt in the greenhouse.  Larry is busy cutting up those huge logs that were on the east side of the greenhouse.  The plan is to get them cut up into chunks and then the splitting can begin.  We are so thankful that this fall has been on the mild side so we can get these things done. 

I am sharing today about another shop we went to “bakery”.  They are in many of the small towns and villages.  Hours are from 7-2, They have baked goods but also, they are a sandwich and coffee shop.  Some have a few tables and chairs to sit at.  These businesses probably get a few tourists but most of their business would be with the residents.  So, you see working guys coming in to eat and locals having coffee time together.  Just a general place to meet and have that coffee and something sweet. 
The counters were very full of different kinds of sweets, and it was always hard to pick which one to try.  For Tom it was always something chocolate.  Evelyn always had something different, but her favorite was carrot cake.  Larry would pick something out that was kind of plain but still looked good.  I just picked out something different each time.  I can’t say which is my favorite but all of it was good.  We would have coffee or sometimes we would have tea.  The bakery would have coolers of cold drinks alongside of the coffee and tea.  They were nice places to stop while we were traveling. 
The last picture is of a lemon tart I made.  While we were there, Karen (a daughter in law) made this, and I wanted to try it.  Not quite like she had hers, but I will try again. 
Now we have been home for a month, this all seems like a dream.  But in sharing with you about the trip it helps with the memories.  Again, we must thank Evelyn and Tom and all their family and friends for showing us such a good time.  They were lovely hosts.  I have had a few friends ask why Australia to vacation?  This is the reason why family and their friends.  I will write more. Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337   cell 641-903-9365

image from everyday-delicious.com 

      It is a lovely morning.  Cool as temperatures are still in the 30’s F (  C.) We have a clear, blue sky. Wind SE 16 mph.  High today of 48F ( C) . Low tonight of 36F ( C)
I came across this article about pumpkin spice and that lead to me about a documentary that we watched with Evelyn in Australia.  It was about the nutmeg spice, Dutch East India Company and how they discovered nutmeg.  This was between 1602-1799.  This is a whole story about how they had plantations and slaves harvesting nutmeg.  How it was devastating to the natives of the Spice Islands. So along with the article about pumpkin spice and what spices are in it, it is interesting on how it all started.  The spices are plants and how these spices changed the cooking and baking over the years. This is food for thought. 
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Pumpkin Spice and Everything Nice!  By Melissa Spencer
There’s pumpkin-spice everything in stores this time of year. Who invented pumpkin spice? Or, where did this spice blend come from?  We’re sure you’ve observed that the flavor of pumpkin spice has infiltrated foodstuffs up and down each and every aisle of the supermarket, our coffee shops, bakeries, and even the local brewery. Sometimes it works, and sometimes is doesn’t! But the main question we get is …
Does Pumpkin Spice Contain Pumpkin?
No! It’s a bit of a misnomer to call it “pumpkin” spice when it contains absolutely NO pumpkin. The traditional ingredients of pumpkin spice can vary depending on the recipe though most will consist of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and clove or allspice. All of these spices are considered aromatic and warming.
Cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove are all spices that originated in the East Indies, while ginger originates from China. Allspice is the lone spice from this side of the hemisphere, Jamaica. However, many pumpkin spice-flavored products on the market may not contain any of these pure ingredients. Instead, they can be made with artificial ingredients that mimic the flavor along with a whole bunch of sugar.
With a few steps and a few ingredients, you can make your own pumpkin spice blend to be sure you are using the purest ingredients in your baking.
Who Came Up with Pumpkin Spice?
Though it seems to have all started with the Pilgrims, to whom pumpkins were considered a valuable food source. Pumpkins were introduced to the settlers by the Natives of America. The pilgrims quickly adapted to this new fruit and found various ways to incorporate it into their diet. They would cut the top off of the pumpkin, scoop out the seeds, and fill it with cream, honey, eggs, and spices. Then, they would place the pumpkin top back on and cook it in the ashes of a hot fire. When finished cooking, they remove it from the ashes and scoop out the contents along with the cooked flesh of the shell. It was like a custard or pudding. Pies were common in Europe as were the use of the warming spices that made their way to the ports of America along with the colonizers. It didn’t take long for these cooks to mate the two and create pumpkin-spiced puddings, pies, and other baked goods.
The Marketing of Pumpkin Spice
While the origin of spices mixed together to flavor pumpkin baked goods evolved organically based on the resources that were available to the colonizers, the introduction of a pre-measured pumpkin spice mix in a tin was a marketing angle aimed at easing the workload of the busy cook. It offered a more calculated attempt at selling this pumpkin pie spice. In one 1916 October, edition of the Bakers Review we see an ad for “Something New from the House of Quality and Service, a Reliance Pumpkin Pie Spice blend for ‘uniformity of flavor”. 
About 30 years later, McCormick introduced its own Pumpkin Pie Spice, which quickly became a pantry staple that helped cooks create delicious pies and cakes for their families and communities.
100 Years Later and Pumpkin Spice is a Cultural Craving!
Fall offers up a certain comfort in the crispness of the air and the act of bundling up in a warm sweater. The vision of sunrays falling on an ever-changing palette of autumnal hues and feasting on fresh apples and squashes, as well as warming, aromatic food and drink. We begin to move into a reflective space and a period of coming together with family and friends for gatherings. We often reflect upon our gratefulness. It’s as if autumn offers a brief state of heightened sensory input while transitioning from summer to winter.
Our senses are piqued, particularly our olfactory sense. Smell is the only sense that has a direct link to the deeper parts of our brain, the amygdala and the hippocampus. These areas are directly related to memory and emotion. The pervasive use of aromatic spices like cinnamon, ginger, and clove means that with just one whiff of something, a memory can be created or retrieved, and an emotional response invoked.
By flavoring everything with pumpkin spice, the hundred-year-old blend of cinnamon, clove, allspice, and ginger, creative marketers might be tapping into our sense of nostalgia that abounds this time of year. Combine that with a “limited time offer,” and it has become a marketer’s delight. Either way, the trend is real, from pumpkin-spiced beer to coffee, cat food, and cereal.
Are you a fan of the pumpkin spice craze, or does it drive you crazy?
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/century-long-passion-pumpkin-spice

How to Make Your Own Pumpkin Spice by Catherine Boeckmann
This homemade pumpkin spice recipe takes just minutes to mix up—with several ingredients that you may already have in your pantry! Then add this fragrant mix to pies, pancakes, roasted fall veggies, lattes, oatmeal—and even your carved pumpkin!
Oddly enough, “pumpkin” spice doesn’t contain any trace of actual pumpkin! Rather, it’s a combination of several spices that, together, bring to mind the foods of autumn: pumpkin pie, pumpkin seeds, and so on.
Why is it so delicious? It’s no secret, really. We all associate those spice scents with homemade goods and warm memories of family gatherings and happy, cozy moments.
Pumpkin Spice Mix Recipe
To create pumpkin spice mix, combine the following:
1/3 cup ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon ground nutmeg or mace
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
1-1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
Looking for an easy autumn gift? Make a gift jar of spice and add a tag with these instructions: “For pumpkin pie, add 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoons of spice mix to your other ingredients.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/homemade-pumpkin-spice-mix-recipe
 Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from cleaningtipschicago.com 

Here we go…another day.  It is Thursday and what a great day it is.  Sun is shining, little wind, few clouds and temperature at 8:45 AM is at 43 degrees, high today of 55.  Today and tomorrow…perfect fall days.  This is good for this greenhouse grower.  I am having help to get the greenhouse ready for winter.  We need to put up 2 walls of plastic to only heat 1/3 of the greenhouse.  Hope to do some weed pulling as weeds grow in the greenhouse.  I have one rack to clean up, but those flats will go inside on tall racks, and I will work on them inside.  Getting a little too cold to do it outside.  This work is never done for sure.
​
Just like yours.  Gardening is never done.  Now that the burn ban is lifted you will have to work with your leaves, and maybe mow your lawn.  Here are some food for thought about the fall clean up and how to handle those things.   
Fall clean up with pollinators in mind   by Catherine Boeckmann
There are good reasons to cut back or slow up your fall cleanup. Spare a thought for the beneficial bugs and birds who need shelter over winter and are our garden allies. Here are seven ways to strike a better balance—and make our fall cleanup a bit easier on our backs as well!
1. Leave Some Leaves
We rake, mow, and leaf blow away every leaf and bit of nature. Do we really need to rake every leaf? The answer to this question is NO. Here are tips:
Leave a few out-of-the-way leaf piles in the corners of your yard and allow leaves to remain under shrubs as a natural insulator. You may not realize it, but you provide safe harbors for overwintering pollinators. Butterflies will overwinter in a chrysalis hanging from a dead plant, native bees will “hibernate” in the hollow stem of a bee balm plant, birds will flit around spent sunflowers, and caterpillars will roll into the seedpod of a milkweed plant. Frogs and other wildlife also need fall leaves for insulation the way we need a winter coat.
The only area of leaf cleanup that matters is turfgrass. Tree leaves can fall but should not cover a significant portion of turfgrass. Don’t cover more than 20% of your lawn, nor allow leaves to mat in layers. This inhibits growth, invites mold disease, and encourages turf damage from rodents.
What to do with the leaves? Mulch with a mower. This has many benefits, from adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil to reducing weed seed germination. This requires more frequent mowing in the fall and possibly several passes with the mower to mulch the leaves into small pieces.
Or, if you have a lot of leaves on your lawn, why not rake them up and make leaf mold with them?! See how to make leaf mold.
Add some of the shredded or whole leaves to your garden beds or other areas of your property where they can serve as a mulch and break down over time.
Definitely do take the time to fish out leaves that have landed in ponds. If they sink to the bottom and rot, they will reduce water quality and impact wildlife.
2. Compost Leaves (If You Don’t Already)
Of course, you can compost the leaves. Fall is the perfect time to start a compost pile in the corner of your yard to make free, nutrient-rich fertilizer for the spring. Layer your “brown” leaves with “green” materials to mix high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials for faster composting. Keep the pile slightly moist and turn it occasionally to aerate and mix the material. See how to build a compost heap to keep it cooking.
3. Clean Up Perennial Flowers
In general, consider leaving most perennials uncut through the winter. Native bee species like small carpenters, mason, and leaf-cutter bees nest in hollow stems. Many butterflies pupate and spend the winter on these plants as well. We can preserve these pollinating insects by leaving this plant material in the landscape for next year. There’s no real need to cut back until early spring, when new growth begins to push through. If you crave tidiness, you can always leave just one area uncut.
Many perennials such as coneflowers, sedums, black-eyed Susan, Joe-Pye weed, and marigolds can be an important food source for seed-eating birds, like finches, during the winter. Allow their seed heads to ripen until they turn brown and split open. These seed capsules are like salt shakers full of tiny seeds. They’ll self-sow to create more native flowers! Discover 20 self-sowing flowers.
 On the other hand, some plants should be cut back to avoid issues. Such plants as peonies, bearded irises, and lilies can be cut back to a height of 3 to 5 inches. Iris borers overwinter in/on the foliage, so removing it in the fall is a good idea. Learn which perennials to leave and which to cut back.
Of course, remove any diseased plants at once. This removes overwintering fungi and insects that can attack plants in the spring.
4. Clear Away Vegetable Crops
It’s important to clear away diseased plants and any dead or rotting plant material. Pest insects, like squash bugs, and diseases will overwinter, bridging the gap between this year’s crops and the next. Cover the ground with an organic mulch to protect it from winter weather or plant a cover crop.
For fruit trees and berry bushes, we prefer to delay mulching until the end of winter. This means that once all the leftover leaves are raked up, frost will have a clear run, penetrating down into the top layers of soil and cleansing it of overwintering pests lurking there.
Take this opportunity to remove canes and other plant supports. Wipe or wash off any soil, leave it to dry off, and then store it inside or somewhere at least sheltered from the worst of the weather.
Also, weed! You may have thought that the weeding was over, but experienced gardeners know that fall is the most important time for weeding—even if frost has killed your flowers and veggies. Winter annual weeds like henbit, common chickweed, and shepherd’s purse will germinate in the fall and resume growth in spring. Managing them in the fall prevents weed problems in the spring!
5. Leave Grass Long
Just as we leave some perennials longer, you’re best leaving the grass to grow a little longer over the winter. Soil-enriching caterpillars and other bugs bury right down into the thatch; a close-cropped lawn doesn’t do them any favors.
For this reason, set your mower blades fairly high for the season’s final cut. This will help protect the soil and make your turf healthier. You can also take the opportunity to give your lawn a neat, crisp finish. Also, if you mow your lawn, use a shredding mower, as it’s actually healthier to return that leaf litter to the soil.
6. Support Wildlife
One of the fall tasks we enjoy is gathering shrub clippings and creating brush piles in the yard’s corners. Think of this as creating little safe houses for birds and little mammals (as well as frogs and reptiles). Place tree and shrub branches on the top of the pile for warmth and protection.
Be proactive and do all you can to help garden wildlife. Keep bird feeders topped up. Birds particularly appreciate fatty, high-energy foods during the cold months. Establish a feeding routine, offer water, and regularly clean feeders and bird baths to maintain good hygiene. See more about feeding garden birds in winter.
Fall is also a good time to plant new wildlife-friendly hedges. Include berry-producing species like hawthorn or shrubs like pussy willow that will support butterflies. See the best shrubs for the birds.
7. Plant Bulbs for Pollinators
Remember that those spring-flowering bulbs provide early nectar for pollinators like bees. Daffodils, crocuses, grape hyacinths, and the stunning snake’s-head fritillary are a few good choices. See our list of fall-planting bulbs for spring flowers.
Plant by late October into early November. Larger bulbs are best planted 8 inches deep; smaller bulbs, 4 inches deep. Bulbs are best planted in groups or beds of the same color, but you can also scatter bulbs across your perennial beds for pops of color in early spring. If deer are a problem in your area, avoid tulips. Stick to daffodils, alliums, and crocuses.
Speaking of bulbs, be sure to dig up tropicals such as cannas, dahlias, elephant ears, caladium, and gladiolus before a hard freeze arrives!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-fall-cleanup-tips-better-spring-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

     ​Good day as they would say in Australia. Cloudy and mostly cloudy today.  Temperature at 7:30 is 38 F(4C) with a high today of 48 F.(5C)
     The pictures I have posted are the one thing we went to in Australia were cafes.  Every little village and town had them for coffee, sandwiches and lunch.  Many were open from 7 till 2.  They were family owned. They all were very lovely and special things to serve.  Our first one, I couldn’t understand what the specials were till he said Reuben sandwiches and chips (French fries) were with it.  Now their sandwiches are very big and filling.   The other sandwich is Larry’s burger and look at the size of it. Also, there were chips with it. 
     All the cafes were decorated differently and had lots to look at.  Water was chilled in glass bottles and put on the tables to share with all.  They look like what we would serve wine in, or salad dressing.
    Now we didn’t give tips like we do here In America.  I had one salesman that said he would be upset to come here with the tipping and the sales tax, which they don’t have either.   All of these are just memories now.  Evelyn told me it would seem like a dream, and she is so right.  It was an awesome vacation and trip for us.  I will have more coming.  Stay safe, stay warm
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Evelyn at Stoney Creek Trestle bridge

image from Tom at Seaspray beach 

images from mediastorehouse.com 

WOW the weather has changed.  Windy outside, cooler temperatures and cloudy. 39 F ( 4 C) feels like 28 degrees F. ( 2C) at 12:00 Noon.   So, it is getting colder out as it was 40 at 10:00 AM.  Low tonight at 26 f (2 C) As I have been writing people, it seems like Halloween today. Cold, windy, and gloomy.  This is how I remember Halloween’s in the past.  Stay safe for trick and treating but enjoy if you can. 

I am just giving you a couple of pictures of Larry with his sister Evelyn and brother-in-law Tom.  You see before we got there, Evelyn’s grandchildren couldn’t figure out that she had a brother. Even though she talked about the family, they just couldn’t believe that grandmother would have a brother.  Her friends when they saw Larry wondered what happened to Evelyn with her height.  It is all in the genes.  Their grandmother Elsie Litterer was little, and Evelyn looks like her.  Larry’s genes come from grandfather Theophil and some of his uncles.  They have a brother Jerry who is just as tall. Jerry has a son Jake that is tall at  6’3” or more.  Larry is the oldest, and then it is Evelyn 2 years younger. Picture with Ev is taken at Trestle bridge at Stoney Creek and the one with Tom was at Seaspray.  I had to check with Ev that I got this right.  So many pictures, so many memories and they all run together.  Evelyn and Tom were great hosts, taking within 2 hours of Sale to see a lot.
​
Australia’s are just now starting to celebrate Halloween.  We have seen pictures of the grandchildren all dressed up.  Very nice to see. What are your Halloween customs?  I am sending out cards, ecards, and letters to many.     
Here is information about Seaspray.
Seaspray is a small coastal town in the Gippsland region of Victoria, Australia. The town is located on the Ninety Mile Beach, about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) off the South Gippsland Highway, in the Shire of Wellington, 242 kilometres (150 mi) east of the state capital, Melbourne.  At the 2016 census, Seaspray had a population of 322.Seaspray's main recreational features and tourism attractions focus around swimming, surfing and other watersports, as well as fishing on the Ninety Mile Beach. There is also fishing in the creek, walks, tennis, picnic and playground facilities, and regular markets.
In winter, people are likely to see southern right whales cavorting close to shore. The town is home to a Surf Life Saving Club and hosts annual Surf Life Saving Carnivals.[3][4] In 2015, the Seaspray Surf Life Saving Club underwent a $2.6 million rebuild after the previous club rooms had been badly damaged by violent storms in 2007. This first stage of the rebuild included better operational control facilities, a first-aid centre, equipment storage, and a function area with views across the town and beach. Future stages will include a patrol tower, extensive outside decking to expand the function area, and larger storage facilities. Taken from en.wikipedia.org
The Stony Creek Trestle Bridge was built in 1916 when the existing rail line from Melbourne to Bairnsdale was extended to Orbost. This 97km Bairnsdale to Orbost extension through rugged terrain was reputed to have been the most difficult rail project undertaken in Victoria. In service for over 60 years the bridge was damaged by bushfire in 1980, with the last train crossing in 1987.
At 247m long and 20m high, it is the largest standing bridge of its kind in the State, and is listed on the Register of Historic Sites. Built of red ironbark and grey box timber, it is a fine example of the early engineering skills that utilised the resources and materials found on site.
Due to its poor condition the bridge itself is fenced off. There are two viewing areas, one close to the top of the bridge height. the other at the base.
The sign post is on the Princes Highway between Lakes Entrance and Nowa Nowa (about 5km from Nowa Nowa). After you turn off from the Princes Highway there is about a 3km drive into the bush to the bridge. The road is suitable for all cars.
Taken from https://www.visiteastgippsland.com.au/stony-creek-trestle-bridge
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365