image from thehypetufagardener.com 

      ​It is feeling more warmer out as the sun still has some heat.  We are at 80 degrees at noon. With a high of 79 wow it is all ready 82 at 2:00 PM.  Looks rain around here at 5:00 PM.  Small area so see what happens.  I watered today, so of course it is going to rain.  WE need it. 
Here is a way of continuing growing plants by taking cuttings.  Whole kind of different ways to do these.  Any of you do these for making new plants? 
Growing New Plants from Softwood, Semi-Hardwood, and Hardwood Cuttings by Robin Sweetser
Late summer and fall is the ideal time to take cuttings of many plants! Many of our favorite tender plants (such as coleus and geraniums) may not survive winter. It’s fun and quite satisfying to multiply your favorite plants—for free! Learn how.
One of my favorite aspects of gardening is plant propagation. Whether it’s from seed or from a cutting, I love seeing a new plant emerge and grow. Taking stem cuttings is an easy way to propagate your favorite garden plants in order to enjoy again next year, fill in empty garden space, or share them with friends.
Even with a greenhouse, we don’t have enough room for all the plants we want to save and it’s even more difficult if you are trying to fit them all on a sunny windowsill. Instead of lugging in large containers and digging up entire plants, you can easily take herbaceous, softwood, or semi-hardwood cuttings of your favorites and start new plants.
Almost any garden plant that produces stems can be be propagated via stem cuttings. Perennial flowers, vines, shrubs, and even trees are all great candidates!
Tender Plants
Around September, as temperatures cool, it’s time to take care of your tender container plants such as coleus and geraniums. They are at their peak in mid-summer, but when the weather turns colder, they will be lost unless you bring them inside. One way to ensure that they last through winter is to take a few cuttings and keep them indoors until spring.
Iresine is a good candidate for propagation.Iresine is a great candidate for propagation.
You can truly take stem cuttings from any houseplant or herbaceous plant (those with non-woody stems) any time during the growing season (spring to late fall). Many root so easily that they will even root in a glass of water. (If you try this, keep the water clean and put the glass out of direct sunlight. Once roots form, transfer to soil.)
As well as coleus and geranium, tender plants include African violet, some ivies, iresine, mints, and impatiens.
Coleus are extremely easy to propagate, rooting readily from their stems. Coleus are extremely easy to propagate, rooting readily from their stems.
Semi-hardwood Cuttings
With semi-hardwood plants (those with woody bases but soft growth at top), cuttings can also be taken in late summer to early fall. In autumn, hormone levels are high, so plants should root and grow well.
Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken from woody evergeens include arborvitae, boxwood, holly, rhododendron, and yew, as well as other woody shrubs, like rose, lilac, hydrangea, and forsythia.
Herbs such as lavender, bay, rosemary, sage, and thyme also grow well from semi-hardwood cuttings.
Many varieties of fuchsia, saliva, and penstemon won’t take severe weather so taking cuttings is a good precaution.
The new growth on this lilac shows the ripening wood at the base and soft wood at the top.The new growth on this lilac shows the ripening wood at the base and soft wood at the top. Perfect for taking a semi-hardwood cutting from!
Hardwood Stem Cuttings
After a good frost, you can start taking hardwood cuttings. These cuttings are taken only when the plant is fully dormant (through early spring). Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature growth produced in the last season or the season before. These cuttings are slower to grow roots, but can still be grown successfully with a bit of patience!
Hardwood cuttings can be taken from most deciduous shrubs such as forsythia, rose, viburnum, deutzia, Rose of Sharon, and weigela.
Softwood Cuttings
Then back in the spring, plants begin to grow again. Softwood stem cuttings are taken in the spring and early summer—between April and July—from the tender new growth. These cuttings tend to grow new roots the fastest.
Softwood cuttings can be taken from plants such as clematis, lilac, forsythia, weigela, hydrangea, Rose of Sharon, and spirea, to name a few.
How to Take Cuttings: Supplies
Before you start taking cuttings, take time to gather all the materials you’ll need. If you are organized, you’ll be able to prepare a lot of cuttings in a short time. You’ll need:
 
clean plastic pots or boxes
a bag of sterile potting soil and perlite or vermiculite
powdered rooting hormone (optional, but recommended)
a sharp knife, clippers, or razor blade
rubbing alcohol to sterilize your cutting tool
As a rooting medium, you can use a mix of potting soil (soilless mixes are best) and perlite or vermiculite to make it drain faster. I have had success using straight vermiculite as well.
How to Take Cuttings: Guidelines
Taking cuttings is easy, but the methods used for propagating softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood cuttings differ slightly. The techniques are listed below, but first, here are a few general tips to keep in mind:
Cuttings taken from the base of a plant will typically root faster than those taken from the top.
Thin cuttings root better than thick ones.
Plants grown in shade root more quickly than those grown in full sun.
How to Take Herbaceous and Softwood Cuttings (Spring to Early Summer)
Herbaceous cuttings can be taken throughout the growing season (spring to late fall), while softwood cuttings should be taken in spring or early summer. Cuttings can be taken as long as the parent plant is healthy and in active growth. This method can be used on tender and hardy perennials such as verbena, mint, and petunias, as well as shrubs such as hydrangeas and fuchsia.
Fill your containers with a potting mix and water so that the mix is moistened.
Look for new, vigorous side shoots or tip growth and prune off a 3- to 4-inch piece just below a leaf node.
Remove the lower leaves and any flowers or buds, moisten the stem in water and dip it into a little pile of rooting hormone (not directly into the jar because you could contaminate the whole container).
Make a hole in the soil with a pencil, stick your cutting into the hole, firm the soil around it, and gently water it.
Take more cuttings. Twelve plants fit nicely in a rectangular box. Always take more cuttings than you need because some are likely to fail.
Be sure to include a label with any pertinent info on it!
How to Take Semi-Hardwood Cuttings (Mid-Summer to Early Fall)
Take semi-hardwood cuttings from mid-summer to early fall. A healthy semi-hardwood cutting includes a bit of both old and new growth. This technique works well on broadleaf evergreens such as holly, boxwood, and rhododendrons; deciduous shrubs such as lilac; woody herbs such as lavender, rosemary, and thyme; and even some conifers.
Fill your containers with a potting mix and water so that the mix is moistened.
Take a cutting that is 4 to 6 inches in length.
Remove the bottom-most leaves and the growing tip. If the remaining leaves are large, cut them in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture loss.
Dip the base of the cutting into a rooting hormone and stick it into a container of potting mix.
Place the container in a plastic bag and blow in some air to puff it up before tying it shut. Put the pot in a bright spot out of direct sunlight so you don’t cook the cuttings. Open the bag weekly to add fresh air and to check the plants for mold or new growth.
It can take 4-5 weeks or up to 6 months for roots to form, so don’t get discouraged. The firmer the wood, the longer it takes to root.
Another type of semi-hardwood cutting is called a “heel cutting.” Heel cuttings are pulled off the plant rather than cut (see photo, below). They will have a piece of old bark from the original stem still attached, which often aids in rooting.
Heel cutting is made by pulling the stem away from the branch rather than cutting it off.
A heel cutting is made by pulling the stem away from the branch rather than cutting it off.
How to Take Hardwood Cuttings (Late Fall to Winter)
Take hardwood cuttings in late fall or winter, when plants are dormant. These cuttings can also be taken in early spring before new growth appears. Generally, this method works great for deciduous shrubs such as forsythia, dogwood, viburnum, willow, mock orange, yew, and privet.
Fill your containers with a potting mix and water so that the mix is moistened.
Find a healthy-looking hardwood stem or branch that you can take a 6- to 8-inch cutting from.
Make the cut just below a bud (aka, a leaf node).
Trim off any softwood growth from the top of the cutting, making an angled cut right above a bud. Having an angled cut at the top of a cutting helps to prevent rot and also allows you to identify which end should be facing up!
Dip the base in rooting hormone. Stick the cutting in a container of potting soil, leaving only the top 2 to 4 inches exposed.
If you are making a lot of cuttings, stick them 4 to 6 inches apart in a nursery bed outside and cover with floating row cover.
If using pots, put them in a protected but unheated place (like a cold frame or shed) where they get some light.
Keep the soil on the dry side during the winter and start to water more as the temperatures warm up. Move the pot outside to a shady spot after the last frost of spring. You should see some new growth by mid-spring.
Where to Keep Cuttings
Many people use a sunny windowsill as their temporary nursery, but if you wish to create lots of pots with cuttings, here’s any easy way to create a mini-greenhouse …
Place the box or pot of cuttings in a large plastic bag, blow in it to inflate it, and seal the end. Big zip-lock bags work great.
Place this in a warm spot out of direct sun: 65 to 75°F is optimum. Bottom heat helps cuttings root faster, but is not necessary.
Open the bag every few days to check for mold or wilted cuttings and to add fresh air. This helps to prevent mildew from forming in this humid atmosphere.
After a week or two, if the plants look lively, you can peel back the bag and move them into indirect light. Check for rooting by giving them a gentle tug. If they resist being pulled out, roots have begun to form.
Soon you’ll be able to move your new plants into their own pots filled with fresh potting soil. After a few weeks you can fertilize them and move them to their new indoor locations!
Cuttings in their new home. Hopefully they will root!Cuttings in their new home. Hopefully they will root!
When spring comes around and the threat of frost has passed, plant your rooted cuttings outdoors as you would a young plant. Keep an eye on them for a few weeks, watching that they get enough water and don’t get burnt up by the sun or bitten by frost.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-propagate-plants-cuttings till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

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Good morning, it is a lovely morning.  The temperature is at 69 at 8:00 AM with a high today of 81.  Humidity is low, so feels like fall.  Whisky clouds on a blue background.  No rain today or tomorrow,but looks like the weekend we could get measurable rain fall.  A farmer told me that would help the beans lose their leaves if we had rain.  Then they could combine.  I am getting help to clean up a rack or two this week.  I need to start taking in tall racks from the blacktop.  Where did spring and summer go?  NOW fall and have to spend the time getting ready for winter.  Cleaning up the flats is my least favorite job, but has to get done. 

What do you think about insects and spiders forecasting our winter weather?  Food for thought. 
Insects, Spiders, and Other "Creepy-Crawly" Bugs That Forecast Weather  by Catherine Boeckmann
​
Can insects predict the weather? Next time you see an insect, spider, or other “creepy-crawly,” check out what it’s doing! It could let you know something about the upcoming weather, especially the winter months. Here is a listing of some of the more well-known weather folklore about insects and weather!
Is there some truth to it? You decide!
Insect Weather Folklore
Observe ants, bees, hornets, crickets, houseflies, and other insects. Their activity tells us whether the weather will be cold, warm, windy, or fair!
Wasps, Bees, and Hornets: What’s the Difference?
See how high the hornet’s nest, ‘twill tell how high the snow will rest.
If ant hills are high in July, the coming winter will be hard.
When cicadas are heard, dry weather will follow, and frost will come in six weeks.
If ants their walls do frequently build, rain will from the clouds be spilled.
When bees to distance wing their flight, days are warm and skies are bright; But when their flight ends near their home, stormy weather is sure to come.
Flies gather in houses just before the rain.
The early arrival of crickets on the hearth means an early winter.
The more quickly crickets chirp, the warmer the temperature.
Bald-faced hornets make nests in trees at varying heights. How high or low may predict snow.
Spider Folklore
Of course, spiders are arachnids, not insects, but we are including these creeply-crawlies here! Can spiders predict winter weather? What do you think?
Observe spiders and their webs closely to gauge the weather:
Spiders spinning larger than usual webs is a sign of a cold winter to come.
When spiders’ webs in air do fly, the spell will soon be very dry.
When spiderwebs are wet with dew that soon dries, expect a fine day.
Spiderwebs floating at autumn sunset; bring a night frost, on this you may bet.
Spiders move down from their webs before rain.
glistening spider web
Large spider webs in autumn indicate a frost.
The Woolly Worms’ Bands
Certainly, many of you may have heard of the woolly bear caterpillar’s ability to forecast winter weather. These caterpillars have black and brown bands; according to folklore, more black than brown indicates a harsh, cold winter, while more brown than black points to a mild winter.
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from pngarts.com 

       ​I am posting this article about Rosh Hashanah, Jewish New Year.  What I just realized Jesus would have celebrate this with his Jewish upbringing.  It is very interesting how it is celebrated.  One of the foods is apples and honey. 
I am posting this in memory of a very good friend, Ruth Newman, who followed all the faith of the Hebrews.  I wish I could say this but “Shana Tova”  Miss you my dear friend. 
The traditional way to wish someone a Happy New Year in Hebrew is by saying “Shana Tova.” In Hebrew this means “A Good Year.”
Rosh Hashanah Date, Meaning, and Traditions  by Catherine Boeckmann
Rosh Hashanah is the beginning of the year according to the traditional Jewish calendar. In 2023, Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on Friday, September 15. Learn more about how Rosh Hashanah is celebrated with traditions and sweet symbolic foods—and listen to the sound of the shofar!
What Is Rosh Hashanah?
Rosh Hashanah, literally “Head of the Year” in Hebrew, is the beginning of the Jewish new year. It is the first of the High Holidays or ”Days of Awe,” ending 10 days later with Yom Kippur.
This two-day festival marks the anniversary of human creation—and the special relationship between humans and God, the creator.
Rosh Hashanah begins with the sounding of the shofar, an instrument made of a ram’s horn, proclaiming God as King of the Universe, just as a trumpet would be sounded at a king’s coronation. In fact, Rosh Hashanah is described in the Torah as Yom Teru’ah, a day of sounding (the Shofar).
The sound of the shofar is also a call to repentance—to wake up and re-examine our commitment to God and to correct our ways. Thus begins the “Ten Days of Repentance” which ends with Yom Kippur, the “Day of Atonement.”
When Is Rosh Hashanah?
In 2023, Rosh Hashanah starts at sunset on Friday, September 15, and will run through nightfall on Sunday, September 17.
Note that the Jewish calendar differs from today’s civil calendar (the Gregorian calendar). It is a “Luni-Solar” calendar, established by the cycles of the Moon and the Sun, so the lengths of days vary by the season, controlled by the times of sunset, nightfall, dawn, and sunrise. Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, occurs on the first two days of Tishrei, the seventh month of the Hebrew calendar.
Rosh Hashanah Traditions
The traditional way to wish someone a Happy New Year in Hebrew is by saying “Shana Tova.” In Hebrew this means “A Good Year.”
There are many traditions associated with Rosh Hashanah, including the following:
Attending synagogue and spending time with family and friends.
Reflecting on the year before and repenting for any wrongdoings and then reflecting on the year ahead to start afresh.
Wear white and new clothes, symbolizing purity.
As mentioned above, there is the sounding of the ram’s horn (shofar) on both mornings.
Every evening, candles are lit. Candles are often a symbol of remembrance.
On the first day of Rosh Hashanah, the Tashlich ceremony is performed. This involves visiting a body of fresh water to symbolically cast past sins away.
Spicy, sharp, or sour foods are avoided in favor of sweet delicacies, representing wishes for a sweet and pleasant year (not a bitter year). Nuts are also avoided.
pomegranate, honey and apples on a white table.
Rosh Hashanah Foods
Food plays a large role in Rosh Hashanah tradition. Some of the symbolic foods include:
Apples dipped in honey (eaten on the first night)
Round challah (egg bread) dipped in honey and sprinkled with raisins. Try our delicious challah recipe.
A new seasonal fruit (on the second night).
Pomegranates (as its many seeds symbolize the hope that the year will be rich with many blessings).
The head of a fish (or ram) asking God that in the coming year we be “a head and not a tail.”
Apples Dipped in Honey and Nuts
Make this simple Rosh Hashanah dish of apples dipped in honey and nuts!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/when-is-rosh-hashanah
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from fhsplants.co.uk

      Here we go what a perfect fall day.  Clear, blue skies, Temperature is 59 at 9:00 AM with a high today of 81.  Low tonight of 55.  Rain in the forecast but don’t look for much.  Now that the harvest is starting, all be safe.  Hope field fires don’t happen.  Stay safe.. 

Now it is time to think of getting plants ready for the fall and winter. Here is how to take care of elephant ear plants.  Right now, that is all I am doing is thinking about that, need to start to work on that next week.  Work never ending at the greenhouse.  I have been canning and doing bookwork catch up.  Like I said work never ending. 
​
How to Care for Elephant Ear Plants  by Catherine Boeckmann
The dramatic elephant ears plant is a large, tropical foliage plant with magnificent, heart-shaped or arrow-shaped leaves. In colder regions, they need to be dug up and stored before winter arrives. Here’s how to grow and care for elephant ears in your garden.
About Elephant Ears
Elephant ear belongs to the genus Colocasia, which are tuberous, frost-tender perennials from tropical Asia. You may be familiar with one species, Colocasia esculenta, by its other name: taro. Taro is an edible root vegetable enjoyed in much of tropical Africa and Asia.
These plants are accustomed to wet areas with the filtered sun of a tropical forest. Therefore, they prefer moist soils and also partial shade. They are good for wet areas along creeks, rain gardens, or low-lying areas.
If you grow elephant ears in a garden bed, that’s perfectly fine as long as they receive regular moisture and don’t dry out (especially in hot summers)! Elephant ears look great in a container with other summer bulbs and/or annuals.
 In USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 11, elephant ears can be left outside year-round and are treated as perennials. In colder climates, they are typically treated as annuals and discarded at the end of the growing season. However, you could also dig up the tubers after the first fall frost, store them indoors, and replant them next year after the last spring frost.
Elephant ear leaves can reach lengths of 3 feet on top of 3- to 7-foot stems. The leaves usually have prominent veins, and their colors range from lime green to almost black.
How to Care for Elephant Ears
Don’t let the soil dry out during the active growing season.
Water the plants in the morning and water from below to keep water off the leaves.
Apply a slow-release fertilizer once a month.
Cut off faded or browning leaves as needed. Make the cut as close to the tuber as possible.
Tubers may be left in the ground year-round in Zones 7 to 11. Add a layer of mulch around the plants in late fall to protect from frost.
In cooler regions, tubers should be planted in the ground in mid-spring and dug up in fall after the first frost.
Cut back foliage and allow the tubers to dry for a few days.
Overwinter in an open container (paper bags work well) with peat moss or dry potting soil in a cool dry location (above 45°F).
The plant may be divided in winter or early spring.
You can grow the upright elephant ears (Alocasia) indoors as houseplants in bright, indirect light. Grow in a 5-gallon container with rich, moist soil.
Elephant ear is grown as a food crop in much of the tropical world and the traditional Polynesian dish poi is made from the tubers. However, note that all parts of the plant are poisonous, unless it is cooked first!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/elephant-ears
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from outsidepride.com 

    Isn't this cooler weather just great to be outside and work.  It makes you appreciate it more after last week of 90 degrees, and it makes all of us feel better with it being cooler.  It looks like all week will be seasonable.  We could use rain, but that doesn't look like in the forecast.  Harvest is starting so all be safe.  
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How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Astilbe  by Catherine Boeckmann
Astilbes are small flowering plants with feathery plumes in pink or white atop fern-like foliage. They add color and texture to a shady garden. Planted in the fall or spring, these deer-resistant perennials will flower from late spring into late summer. Learn how to grow and care for astilbe.
About Astilbe
Deceptively delicate in appearance, this moisture- and semi-shade-loving perennial is hardy to Zone 4. Astilbe will provide blooms from late spring to late summer, depending on the variety. A few selections are even fall flowering. With proper moisture, the foliage remains attractive throughout its blooming period. They prefer a soil pH of slightly acidic to neutral.
Astilbes (Astilbe spp.) are clump-forming perennials that belong to the saxifrage family and arise from a stout rootstock. The upright stems bear fern-like green foliage and feathery plumes extending above the foliage in shades of pink, red, purple, or white. The flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet, and the plant height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet, depending on the variety.
 They’ll add a splash of color to perennial borders, wet sites, containers, and groundcovers. The plant attracts butterflies and is resistant to rabbits and deer. The showy flowers are excellent for floral cuttings or use in a dried arrangement.
PLANTING
Where to Plant Astilbe
Astilbes prefer light to moderate shade, but deep shade will result in few and/or poor flowers; full sun will burn the tender foliage. These plants demand moist, damp soil, but also it must drain well and not puddle, which would ensure their failure. Amend the soil with compost or aged manure (especially in clay types) to increase fertility; astilbe is a heavy feeder. Add perlite and coarse sand to improve drainage.
When to Plant Astilbe
Astilbe is usually planted as small plants purchased from garden stores in spring or fall.
Starting from seed is very difficult for the home gardener; astilbe can be difficult to germinate, and resulting plants tend to be short-lived.
Division is recommended to create new plants at home. Divide existing astilbe plants in early spring as soon as you see new growth.
How to Plant Astilbe
Plant purchased plants about 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type. Dig the hole and loosen the soil to about 10 to 12 inches deep. Mix in a handful of compost. Set the crown (where roots and plant connect) just below the soil line. Backfill with the soil removed from the hole. Water well after planting.
If setting bare-root plants, dig holes twice as wide as the plants’ roots and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the plants so the roots are fanned slightly and pointing downwards, with the crown planted 1 to 2 inches below the ground level. Cover the roots with soil and press firmly.
Water well and keep consistently moist (not soaked).
GROWING
Check that astilbes are moist. If rain does not occur, water deeply and regularly. Do not sprinkle frequently.
Astilbes are heavy feeders. Fertilize twice a year. Apply a balanced organic compound in spring and a high nitrogen fertilizer in fall.  (Learn more about soil amendments here.)
Astilbes are a bit slow to establish but then spread quickly, forming broad clumps with crowns that rise about the soil as they grow. Cover the crowns with compost-rich soil—or, lift and replant.
Divide overgrown clumps every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Either replant the divisions immediately or put them in pots to be planted out in the early summer.
After the bloom period, clip off any spent flower stems. The foliage will hold visual appeal until fall.
After the first frost, the leaves may be yellow. Trim them, if desired. Fresh growth will return in spring.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Popular astilbe hybrids include …
‘Fanal’, for its dark green foliage and dark crimson flowers; about 1-1/2 feet tall.
‘Irrlicht’, for its dark green foliage and elegant white flowers; up to 2 feet tall.
‘Venus’, for its bright green foliage and bright pink flowers; up to 3 feet tall.
‘Visions’ has strong stems, green leaves, thick raspberry flowers, and is more drought tolerant.
HARVESTING
Cut astilbe flowers and leaves for beautiful arrangements. Vase life is 4 to 12 days. Or, astilbe flowers can be dried.
Note: Removing flower heads (deadheading) will NOT promote continued flowering.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/astilbe
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from clipartbest.com

golden rod from Old Farmer's Almanac

image of ragweed from Old Farmer's Almanac

     Good morning, and what a lovely morning it is.  The temperature is at 55 degrees, clear blue sky, no wind.  High today is 77 with a low tonight of 51.  ALMOST perfect day. ENJOY.  I will be watering today.  I will be making salsa also.  I do love to can and preserve all of fruits from the garden.  I have a good friend that grows the plants, harvests them for me, and I just have to do the canning.  I do grow the plants he uses, so it works well for me.  Thank  you, good friend.  I couldn’t do it have a garden with all the work at the greenhouse.  All of you have a great Friday and the weekend looks awesome too.  ENJOY, and Stay safe.
The Good Side of Goldenrod (It's Not Ragweed!)
No, goldenrod does not cause allergies.  By Robin Sweetser
In late summer and fall, goldenrod appears! Don’t blame this golden beauty for allergies (that’s ragweed!). See what goldenrod looks like, why this amazing American native is so important for pollinators, and its role in the Boston Tea Party. Goldenrod is a true American native. After the Boston Tea Party, goldenrod tea became known as “liberty tea” and was imbibed by the colonists instead of traditional tea to protest British taxation.
Would you be surprised to find that goldenrod was once so popular that it was in the running for America’s national flower? In 1918, a survey found that Americans’ favorite contenders were clover, columbine, daisy, and goldenrod. This was before native goldenrod got the completely erroneous reputation of being a cause of allergies. (Today, the rose is our national flower.)
A common misperception is that goldenrod (Solidago species), a perennial flowering herb, is the cause of hay fever—it’s actually wind-pollinated plants that are the source! The major culprit, ragweed (Ambrosia species), happens to look similar and also shares the same flowering period as goldenrod, plus both flowers appear in open fields and backyard gardens, so goldenrod is often labeled guilty by association.
 Ragweed’s drab flowers often go unnoticed. The flowers do not contain any nectar and have no need to be attractive to insects because the wind does the work of spreading its lightweight pollen for miles. Seen under a microscope, these tiny granules are studded with hooks. No wonder they cause so much discomfort to our itchy eyes and runny nose! A single plant can produce over a billion pollen grains.
Goldenrod puts on a show to attract pollinating insects, which then spread its pollen. Consequently … Its pollen grains are large, heavy, and sticky so that they will attach to the insect bodies.
This means that the grains weigh too much to become readily airborne, so it’s not goldenrod pollen that’s floating in the air toward your nose and eyes. Conversely, ragweed’s pollen tends to be small and buoyant so that it can be carried airborne by the gentlest breeze.
But since it’s often goldenrod’s flowers that we see through our watery eyes (in between sneezes!), this beautiful flower gets the blame. Many allergy-prone gardeners unnecessarily go to great lengths to avoid goldenrod. What a shame for this beneficial plant!
Goldenrod usually flowers from August or September through frost, carrying the garden from summer to fall. It’s late-season bloom is one reason why it’s such an asset to the garden, adding golden color when many other flower colors have faded.
An important source of nectar for so many pollinators—such as butterflies and native bees—goldenrod is especially crucial to the winter survival of many honeybees. Its pollen adds considerable amounts of protein, fats, and minerals to the late-season diet of the bees. Goldenrod also hosts a huge variety of insect herbivores, such as beneficial spiders and insect predators like praying mantids, lacewings, assassin bugs, and ambush bugs.
 Goldenrod also produces seeds that are beloved by birds, including goldfinches, grosbeaks, and nuthatches. Other birds—especially chickadees and downy woodpeckers—like the energy-rich larvae hidden in goldenrod galls (which are also hosts to other insects, from moths to flies).
Not only is goldenrod good for wildlife, but also it’s good for us humans. Some Native American tribes used the fresh or dried flowers in tea to cure different ailments. Today, it’s often used as a medicinal herb to relieve colds, fevers, and the flu. Modern pharmacists acknowledge that the herb’s power as a diaphoretic (perspiration inducer) is one of several reasons why it helps to “sweat out” illness.
A member of the Composite family, which includes daisies and sunflowers, goldenrod has panicles of tiny yellow flowers. If you look at the flower up close, you can see that they resemble tiny yellow daisies. This beautiful wildflower is an underappreciated asset.
It is a treasure to be enjoyed, like finding buried gold. In fact, the stiff stems of goldenrod were once used as divining rods to locate not only water but also, according to legend, deposits of silver and gold.
In the language of flowers, goldenrod symbolizes treasure and good fortune. It is thought that planting goldenrod beside the door to your house will bring unexpected good fortune your way. It’s worth a try!
These are tough, drought-tolerant plants that thrive in a wide range of soil, moisture, and pH conditions. Most appreciate full sun to light shade, but woodland natives like blue-stemmed goldenrod (S. caesia) and zigzag goldenrod (S. flexicaulis) will bloom in fairly deep shade.
Goldenrod grows from clumping or spreading rhizomes and can be propagated by division, seeds, or cuttings. It is an excellent addition to any garden border, wildflower meadow, or butterfly garden. There is a goldenrod for almost any situation—and that is nothing to sneeze at!
 Most often, the flowers are in arching sprays, but some are arranged in flat-top clusters or like upright candles.
For good fall color that reflects the late-summer sun, add some goldenrod to your garden. The brilliant yellows combine well with other late-summer bloomers like white boltonia, purple liatris, pink coneflowers, blue asters, and rosy Joe Pye weed. They also blend well with their Composite cousins, including coreopsis, gaillardia, and helenium!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/good-side-goldenrod-its-not-ragweed
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from bbxgoodfood.com 

           WOW it has been a week since I have posted.  We had that really hot weather of 90 degrees till yesterday Sept 6 and today it is cool.  Back to wearing jeans.  Unbelievable how much cooler it is and it does feel like fall, not summer temperatures just a couple of days ago. We had our annual Ice Cream Social at West Fork United Methodist Church  and it was warm, but went very well.  Thanks to all that stopped in at our small rural church. 
     NOW instead of worrying about all the watering to do, with this cooler weather and feeling like fall.  I am going to have to put my work into working on the plants that I want to move back into the greenhouse.  Before I do that, I will repot, redo and replant what it there to have it ready for the next gardening season.  I still have plants to unplant.  My greenhouse work is never completed.  BUT it will be more enjoyable doing it in the cooler weather than when it was so DARN HOT. 
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      I am noticing pumpkins are now coming for sale.  With the cooler, fall like weather that makes so much sense.  Here are some hints on keeping the pumpkins last longer. 
How to Make Carved (and Uncarved) Pumpkins Last Longer  by Catherine Boeckmann
There are ways  you can do to keep your pumpkin from rotting too soon. We’ll share harvest, storage, and carving tips so you can extend the life of your pumpkins!
How Long Do Pumpkins Last?
Freshly harvested pumpkins or store-bought pumpkins can last 1 month at room temperature and 2 to 3 months if stored in a cool, dark, dry place. When it comes to carving a pumpkin, don’t carve too early! It only lasts 3 days to 1 week before rotting, depending on the weather conditions! Why? Pumpkins are 90% water!
If you wish to carve a pumpkin earlier, consider a surface carving instead of hollowing out the pumpkin or cutting all the way through the rind. A jack-o’-lantern with more of a surface carving will last longer than one that is cut all the way through. Try just drawing your design first onto the pumpkin’s surface and then following that line, carving beneath the line to dig out a feature… you can also use a pumpkin carving stencil!   Or, paint your pumpkin instead of carving it, especially if you want to decorate the home or office earlier in the month.
We prefer to harvest pumpkins when they are fully mature with a deep, solid color. The shell should be hard and not easily punctured by a fingernail.That said, pumpkins DO ripen off the vine if they’re stored correctly. We’d only harvest early if we were expecting a hard freeze as a pumpkin can’t survive more than a light frost. Ideally, harvest on a dry and sunny day.  Pick a pumpkin with a solid stem and no soft spots on any side (be sure to check the opposite end from the stem!). Find a pumpkin from a farm or local nursery if possible, as it will be fresher than pumpkins trucked in from far away. Also, do NOT pick up a pumpkin by its stem, which can break easily; the stem continues to feed nutrients to the fruit after cutting it from the vine.
Here are some ideas to help keep your carved pumpkins last longer.
Before carving, cooperative extensions recommend washing the pumpkin with cool, soapy water, and then rinsing in a 10 percent bleach solution and letting it dry completely.
This level of bleach shouldn’t hard wildlife.
After carving, submerge your pumpkin again in a 10 percent bleach solution for at least 8 hours. This can be helpful in killing off bacteria that can cause mold to grow and the pumpkin to rot faster.  

When you are hollowing out the pumpkin, do a very thorough cleaning of the pumpkin’s inside, removing not only the seeds, but also scraping out every strand of stringy pumpkin flesh and gooey moistness to slow down microbial growth. This is a great time to save the pumpkin seeds for planting as well.
You can seal any cuts by lining the inside of the pumpkin with petroleum jelly, which can prevent moisture loss. If you do this, do not use a real candle, but use a battery-operated candle instead since petroleum jelly is flammable. 
In general, we do not advise real candle. Their warmth accelerates the rotting process. Keep the pumpkin cool when not on display if the temperature is still warm outside. Of course, in freezing weather, the pumpkin must be brought inside or it will disintegrate.
Another way to help carved pumpkins last longer is to preserve them. Here are suggestions from Almanac readers:
Wipe down all surfaces of the pumpkin with a vinegar-water solution (1 part vinegar to 1 part water) to kill bacteria and fungal spores. You can then spray the pumpkin daily with this solution. If you’re only going to apply one treatment, this is the one to choose.
Place a packet of silica gel inside the pumpkin to absorb moisture.
If your pumpkin is starting to degrade early on, try dumping it in an ice bath. However, you can only do this once. Pumpkins don’t respond well to too many temperature changes.
Bottom-line: we’d advise that you wait to carve your pumpkin as close to Halloween as possible!
Here are some pumpkin-carving tips from a master. “Farmer Mike” Valladao has been carving pumpkins ever since he saw a 612-pound pumpkin at a festival.
When carving out the top of the pumpkin, be sure to angle the blade of the knife toward the center of the pumpkin to create a shelf for the top to rest on; otherwise, the top will fall straight into the pumpkin.
You don’t have to carve out the top! You can hollow it out from a hole in the back instead of the top, so that the look of the face isn’t affected. (Do not use a live candle if you’re hollowing out a hole in the back.)
Outline your design or face on the surface first. Farmer Mike first draws a line down the center to establish symmetry. Then he sketches the nose, the approximate center of the face.
Don’t use a serrated blade! Use a paring knife or a standard steak knife that’s not going to bend. Use two hands at all times: one to control the blade and the other to control the pressure with which you cut (and thus the depth).
Try a three-dimensional face!
For the more adventurous carver, try making a 3D pumpkin face. You will need more than a knife. It helps to have a clay loop tool, which you can buy at a crafts store.
 Peel the pumpkin’s skin off where you want to carve a face. Peel off that surface just as you would peel a carrot. Then draw your design on the pumpkin. Follow the lines, carving beneath the line, digging out the feature. For example, cut a line for a mouth and carve below. Exaggerate the features. (If you aren’t sure what teeth really look like or how the gum line works, smile and look in the mirror.) Take care not to jab the blade into the pumpkin; you don’t want to cut all the way through the rind—except to determine its depth.
Hope you have fun carving pumpkins this year? We sure did with our kids!
To dispose of your pumpkin, add it to the compost pile as a good use of the leftover organic matter for future gardening.  If the pumpkin shell is still intact, and non-toxic decorative materials have been used, you can process and eat it. See our favorite pumpkin recipes. Pumpkins can also be fed to livestock or local wildlife if no toxic decorative materials have been used.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/5-tips-keep-pumpkins-rotting
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

thanks for all the congratulations about my award.  Greatly appreciated and a little overwhelmed.  Just posting the picture of this honey bee because I love the picture.   Taken from Old Farmer's Almanac 

image from publicdomainpictures.net

Good morning.  First, I want to thank all that sent congratulations on my honor of getting inducted into the 4H hall of Fame.  I am very humble about all that has been written.  Thanks for the texts, phone calls, cards, and posts from all of you.
We all have been enjoying this very almost perfect weather with cooler temperatures, and lower humidity.  It is going to change, they say for this weekend, and next week. Noticed one thing abut cracked tomatoes.  I didn’t know….
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Ripen those tomatoes faster and more tomato harvest tips by Robin Sweetser
It’s tomato harvest time! See my tips on how to encourage ripening of tomatoes, rescue imperfect tomatoes, and what to do with all those tomatoes—from roasting to other delicious ways to enjoy!
Rescuing Imperfect Tomatoes
Tomatoes do not need to be those perfect, round (and often tasteless) specimens you find in the grocery store. Don’t throw a tomato because it’s “wrinkly” or a weird shape.
Don’t throw away cracked tomatoes, either! If you’ve had a lot of rain and your tomatoes have cracks or blight or blossom-end rot, it’s perfectly fine to cut around the cracks and eat in salads, sandwiches, salsas, and sauces. (However, do not use these tomatoes for canning!)
Taste it! If the tomato doesn’t taste good (sometimes the case with blight), that’s another issue; just toss it in the compost. But rest assured that it won’t harm or kill you. Also, if any pests or larvae are inside the fruit when you cut it, then discard that tomato.
When to Pick Tomatoes
We like to keep our tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. However, don’t let those tomatoes get too soft! Pick them and don’t waste your bounty. A tomato that’s ready to eat will feel slightly tender to the touch. Give it a tug. If a tomato doesn’t want to separate from the stem, leave it a little longer.
Encourage Faster Ripening
Tomatoes will keep ripening on the vine until a freeze. To accelerate ripening on the vine, reduce watering, pick off extra blossoms, harvest smaller fruit, and shift the roots a bit to encourage tomatoes to ripen.
If you pick green tomatoes, you can help them ripen more quickly artificially. Place them in a paper bag, wrap them in newspaper, and set them on a rack in the garage or basement. See how to ripen your green tomatoes both on and off the vine—and also when it’s your cue to remove those tomatoes from the vine.
If you get a local warning for an overnight freeze, pick your green tomatoes and bring them in.
Ripening Tomatoes Indoors
Tomatoes are one of the edibles that do continue to ripen off the vine. If you want to pick a little early because you’re afraid of tomatoes getting overripe or eaten by pests or cracking, then you can pick the tomatoes as soon as they have more red than green. To ripen tomatoes, simply place them on a countertop at room temperature. Yes, you can ripen them even faster in a brown bag with a banana, but it doesn’t take more than a few days for them to ripen naturally.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/what-do-all-those-tomatoes?
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from lines-davies.net

      GOOD morning, and what a lovely day it is.  Low humidity, full sun but the temperature is only 79 degrees at 10:00 AM, high today of 83 with a low tonight of 60. Looks like till Saturday we will have the 90’s again, which for Labor Day the last hurrah of summer that will be ok.  I hope to get that last wagon unplanted before it gets hot again.  Not my favorite job so I have to really push myself to clean up the flats.  We all have jobs like that, I know. 

I hope to start canning this week.  HOW about you?  With having a garden, hope of produce so you can process it is such a great accomplishment. 
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I have been waiting for this small report about our winter from the Old Farmer’s Almanac.  Here is what they wrote for our winter in our zone. 
Heartland (Region 10)
The Big Chill continues in Iowa, Missouri, and the heartland of our country. However, this region won’t experience the above-normal snowfalls of its eastern and northern neighbors.
Will There Be Snow?     
Precipitation and snowfall will be slightly above average. In fact, December will be 1 inch below average, with the snowiest period being late in the month. Also expect snow dumps in early to mid-January.
How Cold Will It Get? 
Winter will be colder than normal. The coldest periods fall in early and late December, early and late January, and early February.
I don’t want to think about this cold winter weather, but it will come if we want it or not.  Enjoy this great weather this week.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/winter-extended-forecast-farmers-almanac
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365