image from mfseedbank.in

A plant that you should try this season " Lemon Balm." 

Good morning.  We are having a blue, clear sky and reports say it is going to be a very pleasant day.  Highs in the 70’s(20C) All I can say is enjoy. 
 
Australia family and friends for their April 17th Friday will have also 75F(24C) today but they have wind gusts up to 23mph so it will feel cooler for them.  Stay warm, I am thinking as they stay safe. 
 
I love the smell when I rub the leaves of this herb lemon balm.  Also, I will have one called orange balm which is just as nice to have in your garden.  Give it a try.  It also helps as a pollinator plant.
Lemon balm from our garden Attracts Pollinators Attracts Bees
Written By:  Samantha Johnson
Are you familiar with lemon balm? If not, it’s time to discover this beneficial herb. Plant around the border of your garden to attract bees because lemon balm has a special relationship with these pollinators. Learn all about growing lemon balm—it’s easy to love!
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) likes to grow and isn’t shy about expanding its footprint in your garden; it IS a member of the mint family, after all! Thankfully, it is easily corralled, and the benefits lemon balm provides far outweigh any inconveniences caused by its exuberant growth.
Lemon balm is grown widely across the United States and is native to Europe and Africa. It’s generally hardy to about Zone 4. It tends to be a short-lived perennial, lasting a few years in the garden.
In looks, the leaves are not dissimilar to mint. When crushed, the leaves have a lovely lemon-like scent! An attractive, bushy herb, lemon balm reaches about 2 feet in height at maturity. Most varieties have green leaves, although some cultivars exhibit variegated or yellow leaves.
 Another thing you should know about lemon balm: bees absolutely love it. If you’re interested in attracting pollinators to your garden, lemon balm is a beautiful choice that will delight all the bees in your neighborhood.
Where to Plant Lemon Balm
Lemon balm prefers full sun, so aim for that if possible. Partial shade can also be okay, but even though lemon balm can handle a bit of shade, sunlight is important for top flavor. It performs best in rich, well-draining soil, and it also likes frequent watering. According to Cornell University, lemon balm prefers a soil pH of 4.5 to 7.6.
Try planting this herb around the border of any garden bed to attract pollinators and repel pests. With its spreading ability, it’s also a good ground cover, especially in rock gardens, and works well in a small pot or patio planter.
Avoid overwatering. Lemon balm is particularly sensitive to root rot.
Organic mulches like grass clippings, leaves, or compost can help keep the soil moist but not oversaturated, which can help avoid root rot.
Mulch can also act as a natural fertilizer, feeding the soil as it slowly breaks down.
Ready to harvest lemon balm? Here are a few tips:
When to Harvest
You can harvest lemon balm just about any time! It tolerates being cut back so you can harvest frequently and regularly throughout the growing season.
When your plant has reached 2+ inches tall, you can begin harvesting small amounts. As the plant continues growing, you can harvest larger portions at a time, but never more than one-third of the plant at a time.
How to Harvest
You can harvest lemon balm by pinching leaves by hand, or you can use pruners to snip entire stems.
Use fresh lemon balm when possible, but you can also dry lemon balm by hanging bundles of sprigs upside down to save for later. Freezing is also a fine option.
Store dried leaves in an airtight container.
Best Time to Harvest for Best Flavor
It’s said that lemon balm flavor peaks right before the plant begins flowering.
Harvest in the morning after the dew has evaporated.
For maximum flavor, select the youngest lemon balm leaves for fresh use. New growth has more flavor.
A bundle of freshly harvested lemon balm
It’s easy to harvest and dry lemon balm in bundles.
Mammals generally avoid lemon balm. Deer are resistant to the scent/taste of lemon balm, and rabbits usually aren’t interested either.
Some gardeners actually use lemon balm as a deterrent to keep deer away from the garden.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/lemon-balm
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

images from Charles City Iowa 

Spring storms are happening this week.  Stay safe!

​​Good morning, and what a change this morning.  I need to wear a jacket as it cools out.  High today of 68F(20C) lower humidity.  But there are storms again this afternoon and tonight.  This front is moving slowly so we are getting lots of storms and rain.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for April 16th Thursday will have similar temperatures that we have.  High today of 67F(19C).  Isn’t that something.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
There were severe storms in Iowa in the afternoon and last night.  It came within 10 miles of Dougherty south of us.  Hail, wind and heavy rain.  We didn’t get that yesterday but today is another round of storms.  Here are some pictures of hail that was in Charles City.  It would do some damage. Spring is here, and we have this weather every spring.  We still have the month of May that will give us more weather like this.  I will post more later about how we are planting for you today.  Have to love this process and gives us all the beautiful blooms and bountiful vegetables.   
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

Kennebec, Red Pontanic, Yukon Gold seed potatoes in 5" bags 

white onion sets sold by the lb

yellow onion sets sold by the lb

broccoli plants in a four pack

pansies in a four pack

We are here.  If you need some early garden stuff, we are here to help you. 

​Good morning.  We missed the severe weather last night.  But there was hail in Mason City, and the tornados in western Iowa.  We have another day of severe weather with the warm, humid weather we are having.  They are talking about a cap that is covering us, so that helps with not getting the storms.  I need to research what that is.  High today in 70’s(20C).  Stay safe and eyes to the sky
 
Australia family and friends for Wed April 15 will have high of 67F(19C) with wind so it will be a cool fall day for them.  Family members that are visiting are having an awesome time.  Evelyn and Tom are great hostesses.  Being with family is just the best.   Stay cool, stay safe.
 
I had a few gardeners yesterday stop in.  They called and asked if I am open.  I am there planting so yes, I am open.  Hours will be flexible and weekends will be one of my last ones to have time away from the greenhouse.  During the day we will be planting so we are there.  Seed potatoes, onion sets, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and collards are ready to go.  Bulk vegetable seeds for those radishes, spinach and peas can be planted now.  IF you want instant color to enjoy, the pansies are blooming and ready to give a smile on your face. 
We are in the ups and downs of spring.  Soil is slowly warming up for planting; air temperatures are up and then next week it will be cooler.  There are things we can plant and there are things we need to wait for. 
We will be getting our trees and shrubs, but it will be at the end of the month.  I must wait till they get here to see what we will charge for them.  I need to see what the freight charges will be.   We are wondering if the increase in fuel will raise their prices.  The nursery delivers, so just must see.  Hope you understand. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from Marthasteward.com 

Have you heard of foam flowers?  Do you have them in your shade garden?  

Good morning, we have fog, we have very warm morning temperatures and high of 79F(26C) with humidity.  Chances of storms all week long.  Here is the upswing of Spring.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Tuesday April 14 will have a high of 64F(17C) with wind gusts so making it feel like 51F(10C).  We are starting to warm up, and you are starting to cool down like fall weather does. Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
 
Do you know what Foamflower is?  This is a one I haven’t heard before. 
Get ready to fall head over heels for the heart-leaf foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): an easy-care perennial groundcover that’s perfect for shade gardens, pollinator habitats, and erosion control. Not only is this North American native plant well-adapted to low-light gardens, but it’s also naturally resistant to deer and rabbits and becomes tolerant of dry soil once its roots are established.
 
I’ve grown foamflowers in my woodland garden for years, and in this growing guide I’ll share everything I’ve learned about foamflower care—along with why I think these spring bloomers are some of the best shade plants money can buy.
What foamflowers lack in flashy foliage, they make up for with airy, foamy white to soft pink flowers that bloom from March to July and attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects.
I like to grow foamflowers in my shade garden with other plants that tolerate lower light conditions, like moss phlox, wild ginger, Solomon’s seal, and native ferns. I find these plants work particularly well when grown as sequential bloomers with earlier flowering ephemerals like bloodroot and trout lilies. That said, you can grow foamflowers with non-native annuals and perennials too, and they’re well adapted to container growing as long as you’re prepared to divide your plants every few years to give them more growing room.
When mature, foamflowers grow between 6 and 12 inches tall and spread gradually by creeping rhizomes that root wherever they touch the soil. This mat-forming growth habit makes foamflowers an excellent groundcover for weed suppression and erosion control, without the aggressive or invasive tendencies of many non-native groundcovers.
When to Plant Foamflower
Potted foamflowers grow best when they’re planted outdoors after the last frost of spring. Foamflower seeds can be directly planted outdoors in fall or started inside in spring about 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost date. However, the seeds germinate best if they’re cold-stratified before planting, which can be done by fall sowing or by keeping the seeds in a bag of damp sand in your fridge for about 90 days before spring sowing.
Where to Plant Foamflower
In the wild, foamflowers grow in moist forests and along shaded rocky outcroppings, but they also thrive in shade gardens, cottage gardens, woodland habitats, and wildflower beds. In the garden, these plants work well in borders or at the front of flower beds, and they can also be planted on hillsides to reduce soil loss and the need for mowing.
They grow best in dappled light and can tolerate full to part shade and morning sun. Shield this plant from bright afternoon light, though, as direct sun can cause leaf scorch!
Watering Foamflowers
Growing these plants in well-draining, moisture-retentive soil will help reduce their watering needs. Once established, foamflowers are relatively drought-tolerant, but they grow better if you water them about once a week in summer and less during winter. Just don’t water them too much or allow them to languish in soggy soil, as this can lead to rot.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/foamflower
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from marthasteward.com 

Have you heard of foam flowers?  Do you have them in your shade garden?  

​Good morning, we have fog, we have very warm morning temperatures and high of 79F(26C) with humidity.  Chances of storms all week long.  Here is the upswing of Spring.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Tuesday April 14 will have a high of 64F(17C) with wind gusts so making it feel like 51F(10C).  We are starting to warm up, and you are starting to cool down like fall weather does. Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
 
Do you know what Foamflower is?  This is a one I haven’t heard before. 
Get ready to fall head over heels for the heart-leaf foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): an easy-care perennial groundcover that’s perfect for shade gardens, pollinator habitats, and erosion control. Not only is this North American native plant well-adapted to low-light gardens, but it’s also naturally resistant to deer and rabbits and becomes tolerant of dry soil once its roots are established.
 
I’ve grown foamflowers in my woodland garden for years, and in this growing guide I’ll share everything I’ve learned about foamflower care—along with why I think these spring bloomers are some of the best shade plants money can buy.
What foamflowers lack in flashy foliage, they make up for with airy, foamy white to soft pink flowers that bloom from March to July and attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects.
I like to grow foamflowers in my shade garden with other plants that tolerate lower light conditions, like moss phlox, wild ginger, Solomon’s seal, and native ferns. I find these plants work particularly well when grown as sequential bloomers with earlier flowering ephemerals like bloodroot and trout lilies. That said, you can grow foamflowers with non-native annuals and perennials too, and they’re well adapted to container growing as long as you’re prepared to divide your plants every few years to give them more growing room.
When mature, foamflowers grow between 6 and 12 inches tall and spread gradually by creeping rhizomes that root wherever they touch the soil. This mat-forming growth habit makes foamflowers an excellent groundcover for weed suppression and erosion control, without the aggressive or invasive tendencies of many non-native groundcovers.
When to Plant Foamflower
Potted foamflowers grow best when they’re planted outdoors after the last frost of spring. Foamflower seeds can be directly planted outdoors in fall or started inside in spring about 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost date. However, the seeds germinate best if they’re cold-stratified before planting, which can be done by fall sowing or by keeping the seeds in a bag of damp sand in your fridge for about 90 days before spring sowing.
Where to Plant Foamflower
In the wild, foamflowers grow in moist forests and along shaded rocky outcroppings, but they also thrive in shade gardens, cottage gardens, woodland habitats, and wildflower beds. In the garden, these plants work well in borders or at the front of flower beds, and they can also be planted on hillsides to reduce soil loss and the need for mowing.
They grow best in dappled light and can tolerate full to part shade and morning sun. Shield this plant from bright afternoon light, though, as direct sun can cause leaf scorch!
Watering Foamflowers
Growing these plants in well-draining, moisture-retentive soil will help reduce their watering needs. Once established, foamflowers are relatively drought-tolerant, but they grow better if you water them about once a week in summer and less during winter. Just don’t water them too much or allow them to languish in soggy soil, as this can lead to rot.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/foamflower
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from treedrcom.au

image from ar.inspriedpencil.com 

There is a time to plant your garden and all in the timing for the seeds to germinate.  It isn't doing it all at once.  

Good morning:  Cloudy at now at 8:30 but supposed to be clear by noon.  Warm at 34F(1C) high today of 53F(11C) If we get the sun out in the greenhouse it will be easily at 80F(15C) which us as the planters will be happy alongside the plants will love the heat and the sun. But the calm before the next round of rain and thunderstorms for Monday.  This is another sign of spring.   Right now stay warm, maybe later stay cool, but stay safe.
 
 
Australia family and friends for Saturday April 11th   will have a high of 67F(19C) but with 80% chance of rain.  Family from Iowa is visiting there now, both Larry and I know they are having an awesome time.  Evelyn and Tom are great hostesses.  Stay safe and enjoy it all. 
 
Good advice about putting in garden seeds and being temperature aware of the ground when you plant these.
You wait for the same warm weekend to plant everything and lose half your growing season before it starts.
Seeds don’t wake up at the same temperature. Some germinate in cold wet ground that would rot a bean seed in days. Others need warmth that won't arrive for weeks. Planting them all together means half are late and half are struggling.
Four windows. Not one.
🌱 Window one — early spring, while the ground still feels cold:
Peas, spinach, radishes. These crops want cool soil. By the time warm weekends arrive, their best window has already closed and spinach is weeks from bolting. Get them in early.
Adding this note about potatoes:  The ideal soil temperature for planting potatoes is between 45°F and 55°F (7°C to 13°C), with growth thriving up to 70°F (21°C).
Optimal Soil Temperatures for Potato Growth
Germination: Potatoes require a minimum soil temperature of 45°F (7°C) to begin sprouting. Soil colder than this will keep seed potatoes dormant, delaying germination and reducing yield.
Window two — a few weeks later, once the ground warms past fifty degrees:
Carrots, beets, lettuce. They need workable soil but not warm soil. The window is narrow — too early and carrots rot, too late and summer heat makes germination patchy.
Adding this note about onion sets:  Between 50°F and 75°F
The ideal soil temperature for planting onion sets is between 50°F and 75°F (10°C to 24°C). Onions prefer well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Proper soil preparation, including adjusting the pH and adding organic matter, is crucial for optimal growth. Planting onion sets in the right temperature range will help ensure a successful harvest.
Window three — after last frost, soil above sixty degrees:
Beans, corn, squash. These seeds absorb cold moisture without metabolizing it. Patience here pays back in germination rate.
🌿 Window four — midsummer. The one almost nobody uses:
Once the longest days pass, the same cold-hardy crops from spring thrive again. Kale sown in July produces sweeter leaves than anything from April — frost converts the starches to sugars, which is why fall kale tastes different. Turnips and arugula fill beds vacated by spent spring crops and give you a second harvest from the same ground.
Count backward sixty to seventy days from your first fall frost. That's the resow date.
Four windows. Two harvests. The season is longer than most people use it.
Taken from GardenTiming #SeedStarting #FallGarden #GrowYourOwn #KitchenGarden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from petiligradencenter.com 

When should I divide my perennals?  Here are some suggestions. 

What a lovely morning.  Clear, blue sky with little wind.  For us working in the greenhouse it will be an awesome day, and the plants will love it.  High of 53F(11C) which is our normal season temperature.  ENJOY, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Friday April 10 will have a high of 67F(19C) but there is alerts in effect sheep glazier warning (which means lots of rain so watch your livestock) and severe weather.    Wind gusts up to 14 mph.  Stay warm, stay safe. 

I am sharing with you the publication from Iowa State Extension about dividing perennials. Some good information on when to divide perennials.  I know they are starting to come up.  Good luck if you want to do these with the perennials. 

When to Divide Perennials Herbaceous perennials are commonly divided for three reasons: to control size, to rejuvenate plants, and to propagate a prized perennial. Vigorous perennials may grow so rapidly that they crowd out neighboring plants in the flower bed. Other perennials decline in vigor if not divided at the appropriate time. One of the easiest ways to propagate a prized perennial is to divide the plant into two or more smaller plants.
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)—A taproot makes
division difficult. However, butterfly weed is easily propagated by seeds.    (Personal note.  I tried to do this transplanting and there is a long taproot.  It didn’t work.)  I should have left it.
• Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum × morifolium)—Divide
mums every 2 or 3 years in spring.
• Columbine (Aquilegia species)—Many species and
varieties are short-lived. Division is difficult, carefully
divide in late summer.
• Coral Bells (Heuchera species)—Divide in spring or late
summer/early fall.
• Coreopsis (Coreopsis species)—Divide in spring or late
summer/early fall.
The best time to divide perennials varies with the different
plant species. The appropriate times to divide widely
grown perennials are listed below.
• Aster (Aster species)—Divide every 2 or 3 years 
in spring.
• Astilbe (Astilbe species)—Divide every 3 or 4 years 
in spring.
• Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)—Division 
is difficult, carefully divide in spring or late 
summer/early fall.
• Basket-of-Gold (Aurinia saxatilis)— Divide in late
summer/early fall. Basket-of-gold also can be propagated
by stem cuttings in spring or late summer.
• Bee Balm (Monarda didyma)—Divide every 2 or 3 years
in spring.
• Blanket Flower (Gaillardia × grandiflora)—Divide 
in spring.
• Blazing Star (Liatris species)—Divide in spring.
• Bleeding Heart (Dicentra species)—Best done in spring.
Also can be divided in late summer/early fall.
• Cornflower (Centaurea species)—Requires division every
2 or 3 years. Divide in spring.
• Daylily (Hemerocallis species)—Divide in spring or late
summer/early fall.
• Delphinium (Delphinium species)—Usually short-lived,
division is seldom necessary.
• False Indigo (Baptisia australis)—Division is difficult
because of its long taproot. Plants can be started 
from seeds.
• Gooseneck Loosestrife (Lysimachia clethroides)—Plants
spread aggressively. Divide every 2 or 3 years in spring.
• Hardy Geranium (Geranium species)—Divide in spring
or late summer/early fall.
• Hardy Zinnia (Heliopsis helianthoides)—Divide every
other year in spring or late summer/early fall.
• Hosta (Hosta species)—Plants can be left undisturbed for
years. If additional plants are desired, divide clumps in
spring or late summer/early fall.
• Iris, Bearded (Iris hybrids)—Divide every 3 to 5 years in
July or August.
• Iris, Siberian (Iris sibirica)—Divide after blooming in
early summer.
 • Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis)—A rapidly
spreading groundcover, divide in spring.
• Lungwort (Pulmonaria species)—Divide in spring after
plants have flowered. 
• Obedient Plant (Physostegia virginiana)—Plants spread
rapidly. Divide plants every 2 or 3 years in spring.
• Oriental Poppy (Papaver orientale)—Divide when plants
die back in mid- to late summer.
• Orange Coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida)—Divide every 
3 or 4 years in spring.
• Ornamental Grasses—Spring is the best time to divide
ornamental grasses. Also can be divided in late summer/
early fall.
• Peony (Paeonia hybrids)—Peonies are long-lived and can
be left undisturbed for many years. If additional plants
are desired, divide clumps in September.
• Perennial Salvia (Salvia hybrids)—Divide plants 
in spring.
• Phlox, Garden (Phlox paniculata)—Divide every 3 or 4
years in spring or late summer/early fall.
• Phlox, Moss (Phlox subulata)—Divide plants in spring
immediately after blooming.
• Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)—Divide every
3 or 4 years in spring.
• Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum)—Tends to be
short-lived. Divide plants in spring.
• Speedwell (Veronica species)—Divide in spring or late
summer/early fall.
• Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana)— Spiderworts 
are rapidly speading plants. Divide every 2 or 3 years 
in spring.
• Stonecrop (Sedum species)—Divide in spring.
• Yarrow (Achillea species)—Many of the yarrows spread
rapidly. Divide every 2 or 3 years in spring.
In spring, divide plants just as new growth emerges. Most
perennials divided in late summer/early fall (mid-August
through September) should be mulched in November. A
4- to 6-inch layer of straw placed over the plants should
reduce the possibility of winter injury. Remove the mulch
in early April.
Takenfrom https://shop.iastate.edu/extension/home-garden/lawn-and-garden/gardening/rg319.html
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from davislandscapeky.com 

Spring Cleanup chores.  There are some chores we need to wait a little bit in doing them.  

​Good morning.  It is 40F(4C) at 8:00 AM.  I just came back from checking greenhouse, and it is warmer out, but that south wind isn’t very nice. It is a little chilly and there is lots of wind.  High today in the 60’s so with the little heat, and the wind the soil will dry out.  NOW it is getting closer to the 15th of April when will the farmers start planting?  It looks like more rain in the forecast, so April showers bring May flowers. Keep your hat on and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Thursday April 9th will have 80F(26C0 and 70% chance of rain.  Wonder if it will be humid also?  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Article about cleaning up your yard and flower beds.  Interesting some of the information and things to think about doing the work too early.  Here is what I learned something new.  Always learn something new, this is my new thing from this article.
Rake Away Thatch—Not Until Dry
Spring Yard Cleanup Checklist: Written By:  Catherine Boeckmann
No matter your weather, spring is peak time for yard cleanup! From pruning trees to crabgrass prevention, here are 10 tips to cover all you need to know now. There’s a right way to care for your yard, lawn, and garden beds in the spring months. Lawn and yard care is all about being proactive. We put a lot into our home and property, so it’s worth refreshing our memory about what’s next.
1. Prune in Late Winter and Early Spring
If you haven’t already done so, cut off any broken or badly disfigured branches caused by winter storms. Unwanted lower branches on all evergreen shrubs and trees should also be removed in late winter.
Most shrubs and trees are best pruned in late winter or early spring, but not all. Got flowering shrubs? When to prune a shrub depends mostly on when it blooms and whether it flowers on growth produced in the same or previous years.
Prune summer-flowering shrubs hard at the end of winter or very early spring BEFORE any new growth starts! They form their flower buds on “new” wood (i.e., wood that will grow this spring). Examples include butterfly bushes, smooth hydrangeas, panicle hydrangeas, and roses.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs after spring flowers fade. Since they bloom on the growth of the previous season (“old” wood), you will be cutting off their buds and flowers if you prune too early. Examples are azaleas, forsythias, mophead hydrangeas, lilacs, and wisterias.
2. Clean Up Leaves—Go Easy
Even if you cleaned up some leaves in the fall, there are many trees (such as oaks) that shed leaves (and broken or fallen branches) over the winter and well into spring. Now, let’s not go too crazy—it’s not like we have to pick up every single leaf from our lawn as though we are competing in a neighborhood beauty pageant. A little leaf litter actually helps our pollinators and wildlife survive the winter.
Remove any debris or heavy piles or layers of leaves. These invite mold, disease, and decay. However, avoid raking wet ground. It’s best to wait until temperatures are reaching the high 40s or 50s (°F). If you have a compost pile (or want to start one!), add those leaves to the pile. Otherwise, just mow any thin layers of leaves in with the season’s first cut, and they’ll also break down and add organic matter and nutrition to the soil.
If you have perennial beds, wait to cut down those spent perennial stems until the weather has definitely warmed and it feels like spring is here to stay. So many beneficial insects (ladybugs, native bees) and predators (lacewings, parasitic wasps)  “hibernate” in leaf litter or hollow plant stems. They will “wake up” as the weather warms and daylight increases. If you just can’t stand to wait, cut those spent plant stems and simply set them at the edge of your property or the woods. The native bees will thank you!
3. Address Aggressive Weeds—Early!
Deal with weeds in early spring. Invasive or aggressive weeds will only get worse as daylight hours increase during summer. As they grow, their roots will strengthen, and they will be very difficult to pull out.The best way to minimize weeds in your lawn is through good cultivation practices:
Do not mow too short
Allow mowed clippings to return to the lawn
Skip spring fertilization
Do not over- or underwater
Devote some of your lawn to wildflowers
4. Seeding Bare Patches—Carefully
Winter can reveal damage to your yard from pets, snow plows, and traffic. You may wish to reseed some spots.
Give seeds enough time to germinate and establish themselves. If this is not possible, don’t skip the pre-emergent weed control. It is better to take care of the bulk of your yard and wait until fall to perform any turf repairs.
5. Rake Away Thatch—Not Until Dry
Although it seems too early to talk about thatch, we need to do it now because many folks address it way too early. When we say “thatch,” we’re talking about the matted areas that have died out; they can harbor snow mold. You don’t want more than a half-inch of thatch on the ground. A good raking will promote airflow throughout the grass, prevent disease, and help germination. The ground and grass must be dry enough, however, or you will do more harm than good raking up grass seeds.
Rule of thumb: If footprints remain after walking, the grass is still too moist to de-thatch. That said, rake as soon as it’s dry and the grass is still brown; raking too late will harm healthy roots.
6. Do Not Fertilize Too Early
The best time for fertilizing is autumn; this helps build turf by giving grass plants the food they need to build up their root systems. However, many people also fertilize in the spring. Do not fertilize too early in the spring. This will divert the plant’s energy into leaf development too soon. Instead, the grass needs phosphorus for root development.  The best time for the first spring application in most regions is late spring (around May), just as the grass is beginning to grow green and you want to promote a lush, green lawn
7. Loosen the Soil—If It’s Compacted
Do you have flower beds? After the winter, the soil in your garden beds may be completely compact. Remove thick layers of leaves that cover evergreen groundcover beds. Thin layers of leaves in your beds can be left alone and simply mulched over later. They’ll break down and add organic matter to your soil. Then, loosen the soil to help oxygen reach the plants’ roots. You can use hand tools for small areas, but larger areas may benefit from tilling.
8. Redraw Beds—With a Garden Hose!
You may wish to redraw the boundary between your garden beds and grass in springtime. Wider beds mean less lawn care, too. Here’s a simple way to do it yourself: Use a garden hose to mark out a nice line for your garden beds. Then, along this bed line, take a sharp metal edger and drive it into the ground as deep as it will go. Dig all along the hose line and then remove the grass that’s there, creating a nice bed.
9. Mow Grass—But Not Too Soon
Mow the lawn when the grass level reaches 2 to 3 inches tall. The lawn needs time to recover after winter. However, one advantage of letting the grass grow too long is that it shades the roots, which allows fewer weed seeds to sprout.
10. Mulch—Carefully
As with leaf removal, don’t mulch too early. Be patient. There are also many beneficial insects and pollinators (e.g., soldier beetles, native bees, and hummingbird clearwing moths) who overwinter in your garden, and smothering your ground with mulch is not helpful. Just hold off on mulching chores until the soil dries out a little and the weather warms.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/10-tips-maintaining-beautiful-yard
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from The Spruce

When can I plant potatoes?  Check soil temperature and make sure the soil is dry enough. 
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Good morning, Blue clear sky, but temperature is still at 27F(-3C) high today of only 40F.  For us planting in the greenhouse it will be nice and warm with the sun coming out.  Plants will love that warmth and the light.  You stay warm, stay safe. 
 
Australia family and friends said they had a great weather day on Sunday for their Easter.  Wind picked up on Monday.  Now for Tuesday they will 66F(18C) it will feel like 47F(8C) this morning when they get up.  What a change for them this fall weather.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
I asked Evelyn about the price of gas as she said her family rode the train to Melbourne for a game. Evelyn wrote that their state Premier has made public transport in Victoria free for the month of April.  Are you ready for this?  Gas is 9.20 a gallon and diesel is 13.20.  They were higher than us before but now…
 
Highlights from article about planting potatoes

1. The soil temperature should be at least 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. However, pay more attention to the soil than the calendar to determine planting time.   As of today, from the Iowa State Soil temperature map, we are at 42F.  We need warmer days to get that soil up to 55F before you plant.

 

1. The soil should not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work. Let it dry out a bit first. If you have a late and wet spring, you can plant later, through April (depending on location) or even June, especially in containers.

 

1. Do not confuse seed potatoes with potato seeds or grocery produce.

 

1. You want to place the end with the most eyes facing upwards.

 

1. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water a week.

 

1. Practice yearly crop rotation with potatoes in order to avoid pests and diseases.

 
 
Planting and Growing Potatoes  Written By:  Catherine Boeckmann
Want to learn about growing your own potatoes that are fluffy and flavorful? Good news: Potatoes are one of the easiest and most rewarding crops for beginners and seasoned gardeners alike. Potatoes are a cool-season vegetable grown for their flavorful, versatile tubers. Gardeners value potatoes because they are productive, store well, and grow reliably in many home gardens. This guide covers the full gamut regarding planting and growing potatoes, including timing, soil preparation, and tips for a healthy crop.
Potatoes grow underground along buried stems, forming the tubers that are harvested later in the season. As the plants grow, gardeners mound soil around the stems—a process called hilling—which encourages more tuber development. In most regions, potatoes are planted in early spring for a summer harvest, while gardeners in warmer climates often grow them during the cooler winter months.
When to Plant Potatoes
Garden potatoes can be planted 2 to 4 weeks before the average last frost date. The soil temperature should be at least 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. However, pay more attention to the soil than the calendar to determine planting time. The soil should not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work. Let it dry out a bit first. If you have a late and wet spring, you can plant later, through April (depending on location) or even June, especially in containers.
In cooler regions, the early-maturing potatoes are usually planted early to mid-April. In warmer regions, planting times range from September to February; in central Florida, gardeners plant potatoes in January; in Georgia, they plant in February.
How to Plant Potatoes
Potatoes for planting are called seed potatoes and are usually sold in bags or netting. Use certified (disease-resistant) seed potatoes from which eyes (buds) protrude. Do not confuse seed potatoes with potato seeds or grocery produce.
When you get them, break them free, lay them out in a tray (such as an old egg carton), and pop them somewhere bright and frost-free to sprout, such as an indoor windowsill. This is a process called chitting. It’s not essential, but chitting helps speed things along so that by the time the potatoes are planted, they’ll be primed and itching to send out roots.
A great way to get more seed potatoes for free is to cut them in half. But only do this if they’ve got plenty of eyes, which appear as small dimples—the areas from which the sprouts emerge. For this reason, you want to place the end with the most eyes facing upwards.
At least 2 days before planting, use a clean, sharp paring knife to cut large potatoes into golf ball–size pieces, with one to two eyes each. This time allows the pieces to heal or form a protective layer over the cut surface, improving both moisture retention and rot resistance. Do not cut up seed potatoes that are smaller than a hen’s egg; plant them whole.
You’ll need a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight and fertile, loose, well-draining soil; hard or compacted soil leads to misshapen tubers. Ideally, the soil is slightly acidic (pH 5.8 to 6.5) and the soil temperature is at least 45º to 55ºF (7° to 13°C). In the fall, mix compost or organic matter into the soil. (Learn more about compost, soil amendments, and preparing the soil for planting.)
Outside, prepare the planting area by simply spreading compost across the surface to a depth of around an inch or 2.5 cm. Potatoes are fairly hungry plants, so this extra nourishment will help to support good soil fertility and a strong harvest.
4 Methods of Planting Potatoes
There are different approaches to planting potatoes:
Dig Holes: For each seed potato, dig a hole about 6 inches deep (16 cm). Add in a little slow-release organic fertilizer (e.g., chicken manure pellets) and then pop in the potato with sprouts pointing up and cover with soil. Space potatoes about 16 inches (40 cm) apart in both directions for early types. Main-crop potatoes need a bit more space to stretch their legs, so space them at 18 inches (45 cm) apart.
Dig V-Shaped Trenches: Dig 2- to 2.5-foot-deep (61- to 76-cm-deep) trenches. Lay a nourishing cushion of garden compost along the bottom and a few of those chicken manure pellets, then set your tubers into position about 1 foot (30 cm) apart. Then, just fill back in. I don’t think it makes a huge difference which way you plant, so do whatever’s easiest in the space you have.
Plant in Straw: Nestle seed potatoes down into the soil surface, then cover them with straw. See our article on planting potatoes in straw.
Plant Potatoes in Pots: If you don’t have the garden space, plant in large containers, old compost sacks, trash cans, or purpose-made potato sacks. Fill the bottom of your pot or sack with about 4 inches (10 cm) of potting mix, then lay one or two potatoes on top and cover. Once the foliage is growing, add in more potting mix, a bit at a time, to hill or earth them up until the soil level reaches the top, at which point the foliage almost seems to explode in size. See our article about container gardening with potatoes.
Growing
How to Grow Potatoes
First, water! This is really important because potatoes are lush and leafy plants, and those tubers take a lot of effort to swell. So if it’s dry, water thoroughly. Maintain even moisture, especially from the time after the flowers bloom. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Too much water right after planting and not enough as the potatoes begin to form can cause them to become misshapen. Stop watering when the foliage begins to turn yellow and die off.
If you’re growing potatoes in containers, take extra care to keep your plants really well watered, especially in warmer weather, as this really will make all the difference in achieving a good crop.
Hilling Potatoes
The potato flavor is improved by depth and darkness. As the potato plants grow above the soil surface, you’ll need to periodically “hill up” or mound up soil and compost around the plant so that only the top leaves stick out of the ground. When growing potatoes, it’s vital not to allow potato spuds to be exposed to sunlight, as this also causes them to turn green and produce solanine, a chemical that gives off a bitter taste and is toxic. Do the hilling in the morning, when plants are at their tallest. (During the heat of the day, plants start drooping.) Just draw up the soil with a hoe every time the stems get to around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) tall so that just the very tops are left poking out. Continue doing this in stages until you can no longer draw up any more soil or the foliage closes over in between the rows.
If you’re growing your potatoes in a smaller raised bed, it may be easier to simply top up with organic matter around the whole area.
Potato hills in the garden.
Hilling keeps potatoes from getting sunburned, which can cause them to turn green and produce a bitter, toxic chemical. Practice yearly crop rotation with potatoes in order to avoid pests and diseases.
Types
Despite the limited options in the grocery store, gardeners know there’s much more to potatoes than the traditional Idaho white potato. There are more than 100 types of potatoes, varying in skin color, flesh color, and size—from large to fingerling! Floury types are perfect for roasting or mashing, while firm, waxy potatoes are superb boiled or as salad potatoes. You can learn all about potato varieties in the section below.
Dry-fleshed, mealy potatoes are fantastic for baking, frying, and mashing. Russets and long white potatoes are a favorite for mashed potatoes, easily absorbing the butter and sour cream while maintaining that light and fluffy texture.
Moist, waxy, round potatoes are great in soups, curries, frittatas, and salads because they don’t fall apart when cooked. You can pan-fry leftover boiled potatoes. When you mash waxy potatoes, however, they can become sticky.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

cabbage plants 

broccoli, celery plants 

We are planting for you.  Labor of love.   
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​Good morning.  Hope all had a very good Easter Sunday.  We did everything at our church.  Great fellowship. I did another Easter Egg Hunt at the church and had a good time with the kids. I did one week earlier with the grandkids.  So, looking back over the years, this would be the 47th year of doing Easter Egg Hunts.  Started off for many years doing it with the Betterment Club of Dougherty for the community.  I know that dates me.  I went to the greenhouse and opened the door a little because the sun was out. Now it is getting cloudy, windy and only going to be 40F(4C).  When I go over to work this morning, I might be closing it.  Yesterday it was warm there with temperatures near 90F(32C).  We are having the up and down of spring.  Stay warm. Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Tuesday will have a 70% chance of rain and 70F(20C).  I am sure they are enjoying the rain.  Making everything nice and green.  Enjoy, stay warm, stay safe.
 
We are in full production of planting.  As you know, I am a grower, so we get as little plants in plug trays, and then we transplant them.  We plant; we water and keep the temperature at a growing stage.  Later today I will share with you some information about some of the plants we are growing. 
 
We are planting for you!  That is a labor of love we are giving to you the gardener. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse