image from ciker.com 

           Good morning, and it is wet out from a little shower last night, but the biggest is how warm it is out and humid.  62 degrees at 8:30.  WOW and then the dreaded cold moving in tomorrow.  Enjoy today if you can outside.  I have just a little more work to clean off the blacktop, so I hope I can this afternoon.  Stay safe.  I have been asked how to take care of a peace lily.  Hope this helps. 
​
How to Care for a Peace Lily Plant  by Catherine Boeckmann
About Peace Lilies
Peace lilies are not true lilies. They are tropical, evergreen plants in the Arum family, native to tropical Central and South America. These plants thrive on the forest floor, receiving dappled sunlight and consistent moisture and humidity. Replicating these conditions in the home is the key to keeping your peace lily happy and healthy.
With enough light, peace lilies produce white to off-white flowers starting in the early summer and continue to bloom throughout the year in the right conditions.
Most household varieties of peace lily grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger outdoor cultivars can have leaves up to 6 feet tall. Peace lilies are not cold-hardy, so they can only be grown outdoors in warm, humid climates (USDA Zones 10, 11).
Is the Peace Lily Toxic to Cats and Dogs?
Yes, peace lilies are mildly toxic. All parts of the peace lily plant contain calcium oxalate, which may cause stomach and respiratory irritation if ingested in large amounts. Keep peace lilies out of reach of small children and pets who might chew on the plant. Common plants containing calcium oxalate also include philodendrons, daffodils, true lilies, and hyacinths.
PLANTING
How to Plant, Repot, and Divide Peace Lilies
Plant or replant your lilies in a container twice as large as the root ball with well-draining, all-purpose potting soil. The soil should be able to hold moisture and dry out slowly over time. Peace lilies don’t like to dry out entirely, but they also won’t do well if kept in soil that’s constantly wet, as this fosters root rot fungus.
Repotting the plant every few years in the spring is suitable for the peace lily, as it will appreciate the refreshed soil.
Eventually, the peace lily may grow too large for its pot, at which point it can be divided. Remove the plant from its pot and split it into smaller plants, being sure to leave several leaves per clump. Peace lilies grow from rhizomes, so they can tolerate a bit of tough treatment during dividing.
Can Peace Lilies be Grown in Water?
Yes, peace lilies can grow in water alone; they are often sold in vases without any soil. Ideally, the base of the plant should be suspended above the water line, either by a specially-made vase insert or a layer of small river stones. This allows the roots to grow down into the water but keeps the base of the plant and its leaves from being constantly wet, which can cause rot.
Lighting
Place peace lilies in indirect but bright sunlight. An east-facing window is perfect, as the plant will be exposed to the bright morning sun. A north-facing window would also be a good choice for a peace lily.
Keep peace lilies out of areas where they’ll get direct sunlight all day (such as in a south-facing window), as it may dry them out too much.
Watering
How often should you water your peace lily? It’s not the number that matters but the dryness of the soil that counts. Keep the soil lightly moist to the touch but not overly saturated. Peace lilies can tolerate short periods of dry soil, but their leaves will start to develop brown tips if they don’t have enough water or humidity.
Tip: One nice thing about peace lilies is that they will tell you when they’re thirsty: the plant’s leaves start to droop. When the plant starts to look less “perky” than usual, test the soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water again. They can be a bit dramatic; don’t panic if they start to wilt.
Peace lilies are sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as fluoride, which may cause brown leaf tips. Use filtered, room-temperature water, if possible.
Humidity
Peace lilies enjoy high humidity. Misting their leaves or placing their pot atop a moistened tray of gravel can help to increase humidity around the plant.
Fertilizing
Peace lilies are not heavy feeders, so fertilize only occasionally. To encourage spring and summer growth, fertilize every 6 weeks or so with a balanced houseplant fertilizer starting in late winter.
Temperature
Peace lilies are a tropical plants; they do best in temperatures between 65°F and 75°F degrees (18 to 23°C) during the day and about 10° cooler at night.
Keep these plants away from the furnace or a drafty window or door.
Other Care
The large leaves of peace lilies tend to collect a lot of dust in the home. Gently wipe them down with a wet paper towel occasionally; a thick layer of dust can inhibit photosynthesis.
How to Get Peace Lilies to Flower
Most often, if no flowers appear, the plant is not getting enough light. Peace lilies are very tolerant of low light, but “low light” doesn’t mean no light! To encourage flowering, move the plant to a brighter location, where it will receive bright, indirect light for at least a few hours each day.
Green flowers, weak-looking flowers, or a general lack of flowers can also be caused by improper fertilizing. In the case of green flowers, cut back on fertilizing, as the plant may be getting too much nitrogen. In the case of weak-looking flowers or a lack of flowers, try switching to a fertilizer made for flowering plants. This type of fertilizer will have a higher amount of phosphorous, which plants need for blooming.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/peace-lilies
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Becky's Greenhouse 

       ​     Good morning….what awesome weather we had on Monday, Tuesday  and again today.  Larry and I are working hard to get the greenhouse work done and ready for winter. 

1. Pulled weeds in the greenhouse, which I am excited about because we usually do it in the spring, and I look at it all winter long dreading to do it. Now it is done.
2. Move tall racks into the heated 1/3 of the greenhouse, so I can work on the succulents this fall and winter.
3. We worked to get the areas cleaned up to be able to hang the plastic.  I usually fill in all areas with stuff during the season.
4. Wanda and Larry put up the plastic walls up.  That way we just heat 1/3 of the greenhouse and use it as a growing area. 
5. Shade cloth down and put away
6. Hose put on reels for storage
7. Water tank drained for winter
8. Trees moved to the east greenhouse

Now today work on cleaning up what is on the blacktop.  I have plants to put on tall carts and move into the greenhouse.  Shrubs to put away.  Wagons to move where they will not be in the way of moving snow. Put away the pump that we use for watering outside.  If all goes well, I should have the blacktop emptied.  That will be good with the rain and cold weather coming. 

​       I am listing what we do, as you see the work at the greenhouse is all season long. Some of them are more enjoyable than others.  For Larry and I when this is all done, that is the enjoyable part.
I know you are working on getting your things in for the winter, taking care of your gardens, doing your hoses, lawn furniture put away.  Some of you will be trimming bushes.  Some of you will be mulching.  Many of you will be racking and taking care of the leaves on the lawn.  All the end of the season work, and then time for rest in the winter for gardening work.  Enjoy this unseasonable warm weather we are having.  It will change and get us into the realization that fall is ending and winter is coming.  Stay safe. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

After you have programmed the time to pressure can, the canner will tell you to insert jars to warm up.  

If you look closely, it will say warm jars. It will look like this for the different steps.

The canner will tell you to fill the jars with what you are processing.  Heat up the water without the regulator.  The canner then will tell you to put on the regulator.  Every step you will ok the step with clicking on the x.  After 10 minutes of letting out steam, the canner will have you put on the regulator, then that is it.  It will process for the time you set, it will tell you it is done, then the canner will cool down which could take up to 2 hours.  After it has cooled down, the canner will say take out the jars.  

Here is the completed tomato soup.  

​      Here we go with cloudy skies, and a bit feeling damp out.  Not as nice as it was when the sun was out this week. But it is getting to the end of October.  How are you doing with your garden clean up chores.  I have 8 big pots to clean up and move.  Then I will work on getting the plastic containers out of the east greenhouse.  Someone is asking for his space back. 
I finished up 9 pints of tomato soup.  The pictures you see are the steps I used with the electric pressure canner.  I just love that piece of equipment. I am making another batch today.  Soup is really good.  Tomorrow I will make vegetable soup. 
Hope you can see what the steps are with the electric pressure canner.  I start it all at the beginning for the time to process with the pressure and heat.  Jars warm up, fill the jars, heat for 10 minutes, and then the pressure starts.  It quits after the time you program in to pressure can, and then cool downs.  It will tell you when you can take the jars out.  Easy and just let it do it work. All stay safe and enjoy this fall like weather we are having. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Becky Litterer

      ​Sunny afternoon with the temperature at 65 degrees at 1:00 PM.  This morning cloudy and a little chilly.  But it is awesome fall day out.  I cleaned up big pots and move some yesterday.  I have 16 to do, so will clean up and move 8 today.  Then I will unplant some more flats.  Tomorrow hope to finish the big pot moving.  They are big, heavy and hard to move. 
Teresa that does my web page designing, told me I should post about all the canning I am doing.  Today, I am making tomato soup.  That is the picture of the pot as I am cooking all the vegetables, and the tomatoes down.  I will use a food processor to make a puree, warm up again, and then pressure can it.  I will take pictures of those steps too for another day.  The recipe came from the complete guide to pressure canning.  I am using an electric pressure canner that is all digital.  You set it up, after you put the jars in to warm, you will put the time you need to pressure can.  It will walk you through all the steps for warming jars, to filling,  to the pressure building up, and the cooling down time.  No regulating the heat to make the pressure stay at 10 lbs.  It doesn’t heat up the house. 
So this is the first step to preparing the ingredients to make the tomato soup.  It takes 8 cups of chicken broth, so I made some of mine own to use in it.  Then I pressure canned the chicken.  Now I can use the broth and make the soup.
I will post the pictures of the rest tomorrow.  Stay safe, and enjoy the fall weather we are having. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from clipartcraft.com What kind of weather will we have?  

      ​     Good morning, the temperature is 33 degrees at 7:30 AM, with a high 66, low of 34 tonight.  Clear, calm day…sounds like it will be like yesterday, and for working outside almost perfect weather at least in the afternoon.  I started working on greenhouse work again.  I have to move and clean up the rest of the plants out on the blacktop.  It isn’t my favorite job but with the weather being so pleasant  it is easier. How are you doing with your fall work?  I found this article about November weather.  Sounds like rain and of course it will get colder.  Sounds like Thanksgiving will be good for our area.  Have to see.  Here we go with all the holiday seasons.  Stay safe and enjoy this mild weather. 
November 2023 Forecast—Plus, Thanksgiving Day Predictions
What is in store for November weather? What will the weather be like on Thanksgiving 2023? It’s a busy travel time! Will it rain or snow? Will it rain or snow on Thanksgiving?
In 2023, this all-important American feast occurs on Thursday, November 23, with many Americans getting Thursday and Friday off from work for the holiday. This often means travel; Thanksgiving is one of the top times of the year to travel by road—over the river to grandmother’s house, we go!
On Thanksgiving, we expect rain along parts of the East Coast, dampening some football games. It may even be cold enough for some early-season snow to slow the trek in the interior parts of New England.
Odds favor a sunny Thanksgiving and Black Friday from the Great Lakes, Ohio Valley, and Upper Midwest down through the Deep South and Southern Plains—good weather if you prefer to deep-fry your turkey!
There will be some rain and snow showers from the northern Plains to the Rockies, while sunshine is expected across the Desert Southwest.
Some rain could dampen travel plans and shopping trips in the Pacific Northwest.
Veteran’s Day Weather
For Veterans Day in the U.S. on the 11th, rain showers could dampen parades and celebrations across the eastern part of the country. The Sun will shine in the Deep South and much of the Great Lakes, Ohio Valley, and southern Plains regions.
Rain and snow showers may occur from the northern Plains into the Rockies, and some rain is expected in the Pacific Northwest. The Southwest looks sunny but cool.
Overall November 2023 Forecast
Throughout November, colder-than-normal weather is expected in northern New England. However, we expect a warmer-than-normal month in much of the eastern third of the U.S. Temperatures will likely be near or below normal from the Upper Midwest to the northern Plains and over into the Rockies.
 November also looks to be a chillier-than-average month along the West Coast, while much of Alaska and Hawaii will be on the warmer side. Most of Canada will likely be on the colder side, with the best chances for near- to above-normal temperatures in southern parts of Ontario and in the Yukon.
We look for the month to be drier than average across the interior Northeast, while the I-95 corridor will be stormier. Above-normal precipitation is likely in the Ohio and Tennessee Valleys, western Great Lakes, Upper Midwest, and Plains. The central Gulf Coast and much of the Southeast will also be on the wetter side, although much of Florida will be drier than usual.
November will be on the wetter side from the Southwest up through the Rockies, while it will tend to be drier in the Pacific Northwest. In Canada, near- to below-average precipitation is expected from the Maritimes into Quebec and British Columbia. Above-normal precipitation looks likely from Ontario and the Prairies northward to the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
And remember Winter is just around the corner.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/november-weather-forecast
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from draye.com

       Good morning.  It isn’t cold out at 7:30 AM, the temperature is at 55 degrees.  But it is very windy out and cloudy, so might feel colder.  Rainy weather today, high of 60 degrees with a low of 46 degrees.  I just got in from feeding my cats and temperature isn’t too bad.  Warmer than yesterday.  Day by day it is always changing.  Stay safe. 
​
How to Keep Rosemary Alive During the Winter  by Robin Sweetser
Every fall, at least one person heading south for the winter will come to me with plants that they can’t bear to let die. I am a sucker for a beautiful plant, so if I have the room I usually say yes. I have gotten some remarkable plants that way—jasmine, streptocarpella, orchids, geraniums, begonias, and rosemary.   (remember this is the writer, Robin Sweetser.)
How to Overwinter Rosemary
The rosemary I have now is several years old. Last year, it spent the winter on a cold windowsill at the library. The heat was on the fritz there last winter, but this plant sailed through the 50ºF nights with no problem. Occasionally, I would wrestle it into the sink and spray water over the needles, but it usually just got watered when we noticed the lanky new growth drooping. I brought it home, and it spent the summer outdoors, enjoying the bright sunshine, heat, and rainfall. Now, it is back inside for the winter. by the writer Robin 
The three most important things to consider when overwintering your rosemary are light, temperature, and water.
Temperature
In the past, I have had success wintering rosemary in a south-facing window in an unheated upstairs bedroom. Now, we are lucky enough to have a greenhouse attached to the house. We keep it fairly cold; the heat only comes on out there if it drops below 40ºF, and sometimes plants too near the glass freeze at night. And yet, the rosemary is thriving.
Watering
It can get a messy sprinkle of water on its needles weekly, along with regular watering when the soil feels dry. Rosemary hates wet feet, so do not let yours sit in water. It needs well-drained soil, and a clay pot can help keep the roots from rotting. Many people make the mistake of letting their rosemary dry out too much, but a dry rosemary is a dead rosemary. Water when the soil feels dry.
Light
That brings us to light. Rosemary needs the brightest light you have. I have had the best luck with south-facing windows, but many people resort to supplementing with grow lights. If you don’t have access to a nice south-facing window, a western or eastern one will do. North-facing windows won’t get enough sunlight, but if it’s all you have, it’s better than nothing!
If you are very lucky and your plant is very happy, it may even reward you with some blossoms!  Frequent clipping keeps it from getting too leggy, and when new growth starts this spring, it will make for a bushier plant.
Growing Rosemary Indoors
The best part about keeping rosemary in the house is that you can stroke it every time you walk by and release that lovely fragrance into the air. Smelling it supposedly enhances cognitive function—clearly, I’m not smelling enough of it! Rosemary can even reduce anxiety and stress and repel bugs.
Cooking with it is a treat also. Fresh rosemary goes well with potatoes, chicken, vegetable soup, and we stuffed our Thanksgiving turkey with it. Plus, if your indoor rosemary doesn’t make it and dries up—free dried rosemary! Try delicious recipes like Corn Bread with Rosemary and Pine Nuts and Rosemary Chicken with Spinach.
Rosemary is said to symbolize “remembrance,”
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/overwintering-rosemary-growing-rosemary-indoors
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from purevega.com They are called pups.  

      Rainy day today is.  BUT it is nice to have rain showers and has been all day rain.  Almost 1” of rain, and still more coming.  It is cooler out at 47 degrees and tonight a low of 45.  See what happens with the temperature.  Rain predicted till Saturday morning.  It will help with next year’s soil for sure.  Stay safe. 
Interesting that this came up about aloe vera plants.  I have several plants and many of them have pups growing.  You ask what are pups? 
Aloe vera pups are small aloe vera plants that grow from the base of the mother plant. They are essentially clones of the mother plant and share its root system until they grow large enough to develop their own roots.  Pups are the offsets or offshoots of a fully grown aloe plant and can be found emerging near the base of the parent plant.
Here is some more information about aloe vera. 
Aloe Vera Plant Care: How to Take Care of Aloe Vera  by Catherine Boeckmann
Learn all about aloe vera plant care—from how to care for aloe vera to how to grow this succulent outdoors and indoors in your home. Aloe vera is so rewarding! The juice from their leaves has medicinal purposes, and can be used to relieve pain from scrapes and burns.
About Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is a succulent plant species of the genus Aloe. The plant is stemless or short-stemmed with thick, greenish, fleshy leaves that fan out from the plant’s central stem. The margin of the leaf is serrated with small teeth.
Before you buy an aloe, note that you’ll need a location that offers bright, indirect sunlight (or artificial sunlight). Direct sunlight can dry out the plant too much and turn its fleshy leaves yellow, so you may need to water more often if your aloe lives in an exceedingly sunny spot.
Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for periodic use.
WARNING: The gel from aloe vera leaves can be used topically but should NOT be eaten by people or pets. It can cause unpleasant symptoms such as nausea or indigestion and may even be toxic in larger quantities.
PLANTING
Before Planting Aloe Vera
It’s important to choose the right type of container. A pot made from terra-cotta or similar porous material is recommended, as it will allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings and will also be heavy enough to keep the plant from tipping over. A plastic or glazed pot may also be used, though these will hold more moisture.
When choosing a container, pick one with at least one drainage hole in the bottom. This is key, as the hole will allow excess water to drain out. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting, which is easily the most common cause of death for this plant.
Select a container that’s about as wide as it is deep. If your aloe plant has a stem, choose a container deep enough to plant the entire stem under the soil.
Aloe vera plants are succulents, so use a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Do not use gardening soil. A good mix should contain perlite, lava rock, chunks of bark, or all three.
A layer of gravel, clay balls, or any other “drainage” material in the bottom of the pot is not necessary. This only takes up space that the roots could otherwise be using. A drainage hole is drainage enough!
(Optional) To encourage your aloe to put out new roots after planting, dust the stem of the plant with a rooting hormone powder. Rooting hormone can be found at a local garden center or hardware store or bought online.
How to Plant (or Repot) an Aloe Vera Plant
If your aloe plant has grown leggy, has gotten too large, or simply needs an upgrade, it’s time to repot it. Here’s how:
Prepare your pot. After giving the new pot a quick rinse (or a good scrub if it’s a pot you’ve used before) and letting it dry thoroughly, place a small piece of screen over the drainage hole; this will keep the soil from falling out the bottom and will allow water to drain properly. A doubled-up piece of paper towel or newspaper can also work in a pinch, though these will break down over time.
Prepare your plant. Remove the aloe vera plant from its current pot and brush away any excess dirt from the roots, being careful not to damage the roots.
If your plant has any pups, remove them now.
If your plant has a very long, spindly stem that won’t fit in the pot, it is possible to trim the stem off partially. Note that this is risky and could kill the plant. To trim the stem: Cut off part of the stem, leaving as much as possible on the plant. Next, place the bare plant in a warm area that gets indirect light. After several days, a callous will form over the wound. At this point, continue with the repotting instructions below.
Plant your plant. Fill the pot about a third of the way with a well-draining potting mix, then place your plant in the soil. Continue filling in the soil around the plant, bearing in mind that you should leave at least 3/4 of an inch of space between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot. The bottom leaves of the aloe plant should rest just above the soil, too. Do not water after planting.
Ignore your plant (temporarily). After you’ve placed your aloe in its new pot, don’t water it for at least a week. This will decrease the chance of inducing rot and give the plant time to put out new roots. Until the plant seems to be rooted and happy, keep it in a warm place that receives bright but indirect light.
GROWING
How to Care for an Aloe Vera Plant
Lighting: Place in bright, indirect sunlight or artificial light. A western or southern window is ideal. Aloe that are kept in low light often grow leggy.
Temperature: Aloe vera does best in temperatures between 55 and 80°F (13 and 27°C). The temperatures of most homes and apartments are ideal. From May to September, you can bring your plant outdoors without any problems, but do bring it back inside in the evening if nights are cold.
Fertilizing: Fertilize sparingly (no more than once a month), and only in the spring and summer, with a balanced houseplant formula mixed at 1/2 strength.
Watering Aloe Vera
Watering is the most challenging part of keeping aloe vera healthy, but it’s certainly not rocket science! The aloe is a succulent plant accustomed to arid environments, but its thick leaves still need sufficient water.
 Water aloe vera plants deeply but infrequently. In other words, the soil should feel moist after watering but should be allowed to dry out to some extent before you water again. If the soil stays overly wet, the plant’s roots can rot.
To ensure that you’re not overwatering your plant, allow the top third of potting soil to dry out between waterings. For example, if your plant is kept in 6 inches of potting soil, allow the top 2 inches to dry out before watering again. (Use your finger to test the dryness of the soil.)
Generally speaking, plan to water your aloe plant about every 2-3 weeks in the spring and summer and even more sparingly during the fall and winter. One rule of thumb for fall and winter watering is to roughly double the time between waterings (compared to your summer watering schedule). In other words, if you water every two weeks in summer, water every four weeks in winter.
When watering, some excess water may run out of the bottom of the pot. Let the pot sit in this water so that the soil absorbs as much as possible. Wait 10-15 minutes, then dump any remaining water.
Removing & Replanting Aloe Vera Offsets (Pups)
Mature aloe vera plants often produce offsets— plantlets, pups, or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant (a clone of the mother plant, technically).
Find where the offsets are attached to the mother plant and separate them using pruning shears, scissors, or a sharp knife. Leave at least an inch of stem on the offset.
Allow the offsets to sit out of the soil for several days; this lets the offset form a callous over the cut, which helps to protect it from rot. Keep the offsets in a warm location with indirect light during this time.
Once the offsets have formed callouses, pot them in a standard succulent potting mix. The soil should be well-draining.
Put the newly potted pups in a sunny location. Wait at least a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
How to Get Your Aloe Vera to Flower
Mature aloe vera plants occasionally produce a tall flower spike—called an inflorescence—from which dozens of tubular yellow or red blossoms appear. This certainly adds another level of interest to the already lovely aloe!
Unfortunately, a bloom is rarely achievable with aloes that are kept as houseplants, since the plant requires nearly ideal conditions to produce flowers: lots of light, sufficient water, and the right temperature range. Due to these requirements (mainly lighting), aloe flowers are usually only seen on plants grown outdoors year-round in warm climates. 
To give your aloe the best shot at flowering:
Provide it with as much light as possible, especially during spring and summer. Aloes can be kept outdoors in full sun during the summer when temperatures are above 70°F (21°C). Bring the aloe inside if nighttime temps threaten to drop below 60°F (16°C).
Note: Don’t move your aloe from indoors to full sun right away; it needs time to adjust to the intense light, or it may cause sunburn. Allow it to sit in partial shade for about a week before moving it to a brighter location.
Ensure the plant is getting the right amount of water—enough to keep it from drying out completely, but not enough to drown it! If the plant’s being kept outdoors, make sure that it’s not getting consistently soaked by summer rains.
Give your aloe a proper dormancy period in the fall and winter. Aloe tends to bloom in late winter or early spring, so giving them a period of rest consisting of less frequent watering and cooler temperatures may encourage them to flower.
Don’t be surprised if it still doesn’t flower. Despite our best efforts, indoor conditions just aren’t ideal for most aloes, so don’t be surprised if yours simply refuses to bloom!
HARVESTING
Aloe Vera Gel
To make use of the aloe vera plant’s soothing properties, remove a mature leaf from the plant and cut it lengthwise. Squeeze the gel out of the leaf and apply it to your burn, or lay the opened leaf gel side–down on top of the affected area.
Do not ingest the gel, as it can cause nausea and other unpleasant symptoms.
Aloe vera cut open to expose the aloe vera gel.
WIT AND WISDOM
Aloe vera will decorate a kitchen shelf with quiet grace while doing double duty as a self-regenerating first-aid kit.
One of aloe’s most famous uses is to soothe sunburnt skin, and it can be also used for cold sores.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are most susceptible to the usual indoor plant pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/aloe-vera
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image fromthrivingyard.com 

Good morning.  Here in Dougherty, it doesn’t look like we had any frost, this Wed morning.  Temperature at 9:00 AM is already at 47 degrees.  Blue clear sky, but rain in the forecast for tonight, tomorrow and Friday.  We could have up to 2”.  Now we need that as it is really dry out.  Moisture in the ground will help the freezing this winter, not go down as far.  So, you have tomatoes out in the garden here is a couple of ideas to do with them, and what not to do with ripening them.
​
HARVESTING
Leave garden tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
Place mature, pale green tomatoes, stem up in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen. They may rot before they are ripe!
You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties.
How to Store Tomatoes
Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.
We all will miss this lovely vegetable or fruit.  There is nothing like home grown tomatoes. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365