image from dognews.com

       ​      I got this letter from the Old Farmers' Almanac and found it very true.  Enjoy their thoughts on gardening.
 
Of all the things that have been canceled or postponed as of late, gardening is not one of them. There are lots of reasons to garden—exercise, self-sufficiency, personal satisfaction, to name a few. Along with the fresh food and other rewards, we love the unexpected lessons that come from gardening. Here are a few we’ve learned over the years:
 
Beauty is everywhere. You just have to look. A well-maintained and -curated garden is a sight to behold, but don’t fuss to perfection so much that you miss the opportunity to delight in the untamed and wild.
 
Good things require hard work. Like so much in life, there are few shortcuts in gardening, but all that sweat and toil is its own reward. Sometimes, failure is necessary. No gardener is perfect. Setbacks come with the territory. It’s natural to be disappointed when things don’t work out, and it’s a chance to grow something new.
 
There’s more than one way. While there are rules essential for success, so much about gardening is trial, error, and a desire to learn. If something isn’t working, step back and look again with fresh eyes. You might be surprised to learn that the answer was right in front of you all along.
 
A healthy dose of optimism goes a long way. Pessimistic gardeners don’t last very long! If you aren’t already, we would like to suggest you stay calm and plant something!
 
 How about tomatoes? They’re a popular addition to any vegetable garden, and there’s a variety for every taste, climate, or landscape.
 
 With retail varieties in short supply these days, now is a great time to start a compost pile.
 
 Finally, for our U.S. readers, today is Memorial Day. Don’t forget to raise the flag and, no matter where you are, kick off the unofficial start to summer with a feast fit for a family picnic.
 
 Your Friends from The Old Farmer’s Almanac
taken from the Old Farmers almanac. com
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from Becky's Greenhouse

      ​Becky do you have peppers?  Yes we have peppers from sweet bell to Ghost peppers and all in between.  We have tomatoes.  What else in the garden plants?  Broccoli, cabbage, pak cho cabbage, early Jersey cabbage, lettuce ,kohlrabi, cauliflower, spinach, sweet peas, kale, swiss chard, celery, rhubarb, and eggplant.  Hours tomorrow Monday 9-6, Sunday 11-4.  Stop in if you need some plants for your garden.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from littlethings

      ​      Sunday of Memorial Day weekend.  We had rain, clouds early morning, but around 2:00 PM the sun came out and it is lovely out.  BUT noticeable more humidity.  Farmers have been in and they are glad that it is getting warmer out.  The crops were planted a month ago in some great weather and tillage of the soil worked up great.  BUT then it turned cold and now wet.  BUT the crops will grow enjoying the moisture and the warmer temperatures.  That will also go for your gardens.  Most of the plants have been just sitting there ready to get some moisture and heat to grow.  I am thinking your radishes should be up, peas should be growing, cabbage and broccoli will love the cooler weather we have had.  Now the tomatoes and peppers will be happier with the temperature and the moisture.
      Now I know what else will grow but the weeds.  With the warmer temperatures and the moisture they will be coming up like crazy.  Here is going to be the challenge with gardening and keeping up with the weeds.  I will suggest this technique and you can do it after you weed for the first time.  You will put layers of newspaper down. Don't use the glossy paper as that will not decompose.  Then put something down to hold the newspaper down between the rows like grass clipping, leaves, or mulch.  If it is a dry year, it will  help keep the moisture in, and also help with the weed control.
 
      Here I found this article about newspapers.  They suggested using mulch but I will go one step further and say you can use grass clippers or leaves anything to hold down the newspaper. Now none of this can be done till the ground is dried up.  If you do it now, when the ground is wet you will create lots of lumps and they will stay with the garden all season lone. I know lots to understand about gardening but I want you to be successful especially if this is your first garden.
 
How to Use Newspaper in the Garden for Weed Control
Once gardeners have planted a garden and the tender young vegetables begin to emerge from the soil, most gardeners turn their attention to weed control. Weeds cannot grow amongst the desired vegetation because they will eventually choke out the good growth and take over. Weed prevention is a wise course of action, with mulch being a gardener’s most effective tool for accomplishing this. Choose newspapers as an affordable and effective mulch to control weeds in a vegetable garden.
 
Hoe the soil area between the growing plants to break up the soil and break loose weeds that may be growing.
 
Lay down a thick layer of newspapers around the plants and between the rows. Stack approximately 10 pages of newspapers so that the layer is at least 1/4 inch thick; cover all of the soil areas between plants and rows with layers of newspaper. Fold or cut the newspaper layers to fit into smaller areas, if necessary.
 
Use the hose and the spray nozzle to spray all of the newspaper layers after laying them down. This will keep the newspapers from blowing away before you apply the mulch.
 
Apply the shredded mulch over the newspaper to cover the newspapers completely. The shredded mulch serves to hide the newspaper and make the garden more attractive. It also holds down the newspapers and hastens the decomposition of the newspapers.
 
Work the newspapers into the soil in the autumn after harvesting all of the vegetables. Use a rototiller or a garden spade to break up the newspapers into smaller chunks. The next spring the newspapers will be sufficiently decomposed and the soil will be ready for planting again
taken from https://www.gardenguides.com/81359-use-newspaper-garden-weed-control.html
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

images from Becky's Greenhouse

    Here we are Saturday of Memorial day weekend.  This weekend has came quickly on the calendar.  It is earlier this year but May has gone quickly.  Larry and I want to thank all that has come out to the greenhouse.  It has been a great time seeing all of you.  BUT we still have lots of plants. This morning another order of perennials from Swifts' greenhouse Gilman Iowa.  Lyle and Ann have been planting more plugs so we have a great variety of annual plants here.  Memorial day planters we have in 3 different sizes for you to take to the cemetery.  Hanging baskets are available. 
     It sounds like next week will be warmer even with rain predicted each day for the first part of the week.  BUT it will be all the things we need to keep on gardening and the plants will grow.  Warm air temperatures, warming soil temperatures and moisture.  All the things we need to have our gardens, flower beds and lawns grow into a great areas. 
     We have all the vine plants growing as in squash, melons, cucumbers, and the warming temperatures will be time to plant them.  This is my advice with planting vine plants.  Plant them from June 1st to the 15th will be the best time to plant these.  The vine plants don't like cool night, and if you wait the first round of bugs are gone.  Just some food for thought.  Another garden vegetable to wait till it is warmer soil is the eatable sweet potato plant.  So soon it will be time to plant them.  Again they like warm soil and warm air temperature especially at night.  We have them planted so they are growing well.  Easy for you to plant in your garden.
     We have a selection of bushes on sale for $15.00 they are nice but need to be planted in your garden so that is why we have lowered the price to see that happens.  We still have apple peach and cherry trees.  Our landscaping trees are looking good, and we have many new bushes and shrubs that look great for that area you want to plant them.  Peony bushes on sale and they are good size.  But looking for peony plants that will grow in your garden we have them for $10.00.  Outdoor ferns are growing and fun to see them come up with their little fronds stems.
      Large selection of lilies ranging in price from $4.00 to $10.00.  Daylilies are looking good to be planted in your garden beds.  We have some iris here to add to your cut flower garden beds. 
     Herbs selection is good.  AND we still have tomatoes plants along with many different kinds of peppers.  We have bulk garden seeds with the popular bush green beans. 
    Hours today from 9-6 and Sunday 11-4.  I will be at the greenhouse all day Monday from 9-6 to start another week of gardening.    

​till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image frompepperjoe.com

      ​I wanted to share with you some information about planting peppers.  As I am learning there is a time to plant and not everything can be planted at the same time.  When I talk about different times to plant some of the gardeners look at me, like what are you thinking?  Like they never have heard this before.  I found this out very interesting a bout peppers.  LOOK at the soil temperature should be.  I don't know what our soil temperature is, but with the cool nights and cooler days it can't be very warm.  So what this is saying you have time to plant your peppers.  If they don't grow very fast or well this is one of the reasons.  Hope you find this interesting. 
 
•Soil temperature should be at least 65°F, as peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/bell-peppers
 
Did you know the pepper is a nutritional powerhouse? A serving of the most popular type in the USA–the sweet bell–contains more vitamin C than the average orange, a generous amount of vitamin E, and many antioxidants with only 29 calories. Peppers have high nutrient levels at any stage but are the most beneficial when eaten fully ripe. The few colors of bell peppers in the average supermarket are only the beginning–blocky shaped bell peppers can ripen to many colors; ivory, pink, purple, red, yellow, orange, and chocolate. Sweet peppers come in many shapes as well; the elongated banana, the blocky bell, the oblong or “half-long” bells, flat “cheese” shapes, and smooth cherry types.
We asked our NGB breeder members to answer 15 of the most often asked growing peppers questions we receive. We hope that these answers will bring a delicious pepper season to you.
 
1. I started bell pepper seeds indoors and they looked great. Hardened them off and transitioned outside. Still great, just zero growth in 3 weeks. Is that normal?
Peppers thrive in warm weather and really struggle under cool, wet conditions. If the soil temperatures are too cool and/or too wet, peppers grow very slowly. So when the weather warms up, the pepper will grow more quickly.
 
2. My peppers were nipped by frost, I cut the damaged leaves off and they are showing new growth. Will they be stunted?
The amount of re-growth will depend on the severity at which they were damaged. If only slight damage, then they will recover. If more severely injured remove and start with fresh plants as it is most likely still early in the season. Plants that are damaged and experiencing slowed growth are more susceptible to plant diseases
 
3. I am growing/planting sweet and hot peppers! It’s still a little too cool to plant. Should I chance it and plant it? Should I take the blossoms off?
I would pinch off the blooms and if your plant is too tall and lanky pinch back the terminal bud on top and let it grow out from the side nodes. But see notes above…do not plant when it’s too cool.
 
4. How do I plant my pepper plant in the garden?
Bury them a bit deeper than the root ball to encourage additional root growth that will make them sturdier.
 
5. Is it better to trim or pluck flowers off pepper plants?
It is not necessary to remove flowers from pepper plants. Peppers will abort flowers in instances where the plant is under stress thus avoiding excessive fruit loads.
 
6. Do I need pollinators like bees to fertilize my pepper flowers?
Peppers have perfect flowers, meaning each flower has both male and female parts and the plants can self-pollinate. Bees and other pollinators are not absolutely necessary for fertilization and fruit production.
 
7. About how many peppers does one plant produce?
This varies by type of pepper you are growing. Most large bell peppers will produce fewer fruits, like 8-12. AAS Winner Cornito Giallo produces 25-35 6″ long sweet yellow peppers. Emerald Fire jalapeno pepper produces 25-30 3 1/2″ peppers per plant. Aji Rico pepper produces between 50 and 75 3-4″ long peppers! The smaller the fruits, typically the more peppers per plant. Newer varieties, like these AAS Winners, are bred for productivity, taste and disease resistance so you can count on more fruits per plant.
 
8. My pepper plants do not produce a lot of peppers and the ones I get are small. What am I doing wrong?
Remember peppers, in general, like a lot of sun and heat. Make sure they are getting at least 8 hours of sun per day. A general use of garden fertilizer is helpful to the plant’s health and can help keep the plant producing all season. Also, peppers can handle a little stress so watch your watering and don’t overwater.
 
9. What is the typical root pattern for pepper plants? I’m experimenting growing some in large flower boxes this year to see how it works out but generally, if the container volume is the same is it better to have something deep but less surface area or shallow but more surface area?
Deeper pots would be preferred. Peppers do grow deep. Pepper plants grown in containers are often small but usually mature earlier. Each plant should have a 2-gallon or larger container, deeper than it is wide. The baby plant will look a little lonely at first but will grow to fill the container quickly.
 
A benefit of container growing is that the plant can be introduced to cool nights or warm days gradually to avoid shock. In the spring, bring plants indoors when nighttime temps are below 55 degrees. Introduce the plants to warm days (over 85 degrees) a few hours at a time until they are acclimated to their final location. Once plants are established, water every few days (or when soil is dry and pulling away from the side of the pot). Fully soak the soil and avoid spraying water on the leaves. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package or add mature compost as flowers are setting. Taper off on fertilizer, especially nitrogen after plants flower. Nitrogen encourages the plant to put its energy into the leaves and not setting fruit.
 
10. Can you plant peppers in a garden with other vegetables?
Some plants are allelopathic releasing compounds that can inhibit the growth of other plants. Though peppers can produce allelopathic compounds, these will not be at the level to impact other vegetables in the garden. So yes, peppers can grow with other vegetables in the garden.
 
11. Do I have to worry about pests on peppers?
Pepper plants are fairly hardy and not as attractive to insects as other vegetables in the garden. To avoid conditions spread by water it is best to keep the leaves as dry as possible by drip-line watering or giving the plants time to dry in the sun if they are watered from overhead.
 
12. My pepper leaves look a bit pale, why is that?
Pale leaves can indicate that the plants need fertilizer. Big, healthy plants that fail to bloom can indicate over-fertilization. Space plants as instructed by the plant tag or seed packet. Plants that are planted too close will lack air circulation. Proper air circulation improves pollen distribution which is needed for fruit set. Crowded plants are disease-prone and do not set as well as those that have been properly spaced.
 
13. When should I harvest my peppers?
Sweet peppers can be harvested at any stage of maturity. Less mature green peppers will generally be green or pale yellow, smaller, crunchy, and have thin walls and a slightly tart flavor. A benefit of harvesting early is that it triggers the plants to produce more fruit. Mature peppers will change color, have thicker walls, and a mild sweet flavor. No matter the stage of harvest cut the peppers from the plant with clean pruners or kitchen shears to avoid damaging the plant.
 
14. Growing green bell peppers in zone 8 Pacific Northwest is it possible? Or do peppers need a warmer climate? Sun or shade? Do they need a trellis for support?
Bell peppers can be grown in the Pacific Northwest. To maximize harvest potential, start indoors 8 – 10 weeks before the last frost date or purchase plants from a garden center. Plant peppers in full sun as they need at least 8 hours of sunlight per day. They may require light staking as the fruit matures.
 
15. We live in Florida, what’s the best variety of peppers since we have direct Florida sunlight all day long. We also have an afternoon rain every day.
Peppers thrive in warm weather so the direct sunlight is great. Look for varieties that have resistance to multiple races of Bacterial Leaf Spot (BLS) as it is one of the most common and destructive pepper plant diseases in Florida
taken from https://ngb.org/2020/05/14/growing-peppers/
 
Planting Day  Our frost date is May 15th just saying
Two to three weeks past the last spring frost is the target date for planting outdoors, but the real test is whether the soil has warmed to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. To give the seedlings or nursery transplants the best start, plant during a spell of warm weather. In mild-summer regions, you can add warmth by planting in a protected place in front of a south-facing wall. Before planting, cut 4-inch circles in landscape cloth, spaced about 18 inches apart, so you can set the plants in the ground within the holes. This promotes good air circulation and provides protection from weeds and diseases. Water the plants well with a mild fertilizer solution before setting them out. For the first month, remove any flowers that appear, so the plants can concentrate on developing strong root systems.
 
Harvesting for a Long Season
Depending on the cultivar, bell peppers mature in 60 to 95 days. Early in the summer, when the first green peppers show up, you can begin picking the ones low on the plants. This will ward off fruit rot and force the plants to keep setting fruit for later harvests. After August 1, if you stop picking immature green peppers, the rest will mature to their true colors. When a pepper achieves maturity, its texture is smoother and sugars in the fruit fully develop. Harvesting can continue until fall's first frost.
taken from https://homeguides.sfgate.com/time-plant-bell-peppers-57449.html
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

jessicagavin.com

       ​    I have been asked what kinds of peppers we have here at Becky's Greenhouse.  So  here is a list.  Today I will work on the tomato list.  We have many of both of these for your gardening needs.  It is cool out again and without the sun really feels cool.  How is your gardens doing?  We have the moisture now with the nice rain over the weekend, now we need some heat for the plants to grow.  Sounds like later this week that will happen.  That will be nice.  We have 9 racks full plus many tall racks of plants.  We are still growing as gotten in 9 plug trays last week.  Wave petunias, marigolds, inpatients are being planted this week and they are growing.  Soon out to your gardens.  We will be getting in moss roses and more zinnias this week to plant.  We have tomatoes growing on for the 4th crop this season.  Peppers also for the 5th crop.  It is good as we are growers so when we need more plants we will just grow them.  I have two great people that are planting for me.  I can't do it when the retail part of the greenhouse is open.  I am it for the retail part so you will always get to see me.    We have been getting orders each week for perennials.  We have two racks of perennials.  So you remember perennials, trees and shrubs we buy in, and one part rack of annuals but all the rest that you see we have grown out of this greenhouse.  Hope all is well with you and gardens are growing.
Peppers we have here at Becky's Greenhouse
 
Anaheim chili    Poblano pepper that are relatively mild ,  Mature pepper pods are somewhat to a length of 3-6 inches, becoming dark red.
 
Ancho 101 tapered to blunt end, 2 x 4", 3000 sco, 77 days
 
Banana Sweet  a prolific bearer of long, sweet peppers that mature from yellow to red.  Matures in 75 days
 
bell pepper orange Blocky bright orange 3 1/2" x 4", 3-4 lobe, thick flesh, very sweet, heavy yield 75 days
 
bell pepper purple  green to purple, thick wall, fine for patio, 74 days
 
bell pepper yellow  Classic tasty yellow pepper, thick wall, 4 1/4" to 5 1/2" 70 days
 
California pepper  Sweet pepper glossy green fruit is blocky and think walled.  Matures re, in 72 to 75 days
 
Fatalii Super Chili pepper  Habanero  compact plant for patio, crinkled 1 x 3" lime to gold, intense fruity fragrance for fruit salsa, super hot 95 days
 
Ghost Bhut Jolokia  One of the hottest! Clusters of 2-3" orange red fruit.  Maturity 85-100 days, plant 18-24 inches apart in rows.
 
Gualjillo Guajillo chilies are bright, tangy and spicy sweet.  They are popular Chile pepper to meat marinades, mole sauce, Chile con carne, tortilla soup, and homemade salsa. 
 
Habanero red  Hot pepper Ultra hot pepper can be used fresh or dried maturity 90 days Plant in full sun 18" apart
 
Jalapeno sausage shape, blunt end, thick wall, green to red, 1 x 3 1/2: 30" tall plants, long bearing, popular in Mexican foods, 400 sco, 73 days
 
Jalapeno Emerald Fire Jalapeno pepper, high yields of flavorful hot, 3" dark green peppers, matures to red in 90 days
 
Jalapeno Nacho Macho  F1, Jumbo Jalapeno, 4" heavier, milder thatn others, green to red, virus resistant, fine for patio, 69 days
 
Jamaican Red  Hot pepper Fiery hot flying saucer shape, high yield maturity in 90-100 days plant in full sun 18" apart
 
Marconi Italian Red  3 lobed, green to red, sweet, thin skin, 1 1'2" x 8", 80 days
Pepperoncini hot pepper  Smooth mild flavor for picking or fresh use.  Use green or red ripe 65 days. Plant in full sun 18" apart.
 
Poblano produces mildly hot fruit, rips from dark green to red.  in 65-70 days
 
Shishito Japanese sweet prolific plant bears shiny green peppers with sweet mild flavor matures in 70-80 days.
 
Sriracha Pepper Chili Produces large, unifromly green, thick walled fruit with good heat content.  Matures in 65-70 days
 
Trinidad Scorpion  Hot pepper fiery hot at 800 to 1000K SH ripesn to bright red, salsa, hot sauce maturity 110 days . Plant in full sun 18" apart
taken from Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from longfellowsgarden.com

​     What a beautiful day we are having. Many of you are out and about working in the yards and the garden. We have been working in the greenhouse and moving plants out.  Question asked are you out of plants?  No we are not.  Plus we are planting each day plants so they can grow in this miracle house.  Sweet potatoes that you eat have come in today, so they are planting them.  We don't get them from the grower in South Carolina this late because they don't want you to plant before the May 15th and even later if the temperature is at all cool.  They are a long growing potato here for us in North Iowa.
Here is information about growing sweet potatoes that we eat.  Looking at the article one month after frost date and that is May 15th for us.  But June 1st will work fine.  I know some of you will raise those eyebrows and say WHAT but I am just saying.   
 
Sweet potatoes are grown more often in southern regions because they require at least four months of warm temperatures, though there are varieties that will grow in northern gardens, too. They are surprisingly easy to grow and just a few plants can produce a generous harvest. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest delicious sweet potatoes in your garden.
 
In warm climates, many gardeners plant sweet potatoes about a month after the last spring frost, when both the air and soil are dependably warm. There are bush types and vining types.
 
Sweet potatoes aren’t started by seed like most other vegetables, they’re started from slips—small rooted pieces of tuber which are sliced right off the sweet potato.
 
Not only are sweet potatoes very easy to grow, they are also drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is very nutritious and relatively low in calories.
 
PLANTING
HOW TO PLANT SWEET POTATOES
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also create your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One sweet potato should yield about 12 plants.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution (a liquid fertilizer) that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
 
CARE
HOW TO GROW SWEET POTATOES
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the plants watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season, as it could cause cracking of the tuber’s skin.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf diseases (Alternaria leaf spot and blight, Botrytis)
Stem rot
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW TO HARVEST SWEET POTATOES
You can start digging up the potatoes as soon as they are big enough for a meal. Often, this is 3 to 4 months from when you planted the slips (most varieties take at least 100 days to reach maturity).
Usually, sweet potatoes are ready to harvest when the leaves and ends of the vines have started turning yellow, but you can leave them in the ground up until the fall frost.
Since the roots spread 4 to 6 inches deep in the soil, a spade fork is useful when digging up the potatoes. Loosen the soil around the plant (18-inch diameter) so you do not injure the tubers. It’s fine to cut some of the vines away.
Pull up the primary crown of the plant and use your hands to dig up the tubers. Handle the sweet potatoes carefully, as they bruise easily.
After digging up the tubers, shake off any excess dirt, but do not wash the roots.
 
You must cure sweet potatoes or they will not have that delicious, sweet taste. Curing the potatoes allows a second skin to form over scratches and bruises that occur when digging up the potatoes. To cure, keep the roots in a warm place (about 80°F/27°C) at high humidity (about 90%) for 10 to 14 days. A table outside in a shady spot works well. For best curing, make sure that the potatoes are not touching one another.
 
After curing, throw out any bruised potatoes, and then wrap each one in newspaper and pack them carefully in a wooden box or basket. Store the sweet potatoes in a root cellar, basement, or other place with a temperature of at least 55°F/13°C. 
If stored at a temperature range of 55–60°F (13–15.5°C) with high humidity, the tubers should last for about 6 months. When removing the potatoes from storage, remember to be gentle; do not dig around or else you will bruise the potatoes.
.
WIT & WISDOM
Sweet potatoes will retain their color better if cooked with a slice of lemon.
Sweet potatoes are a very healthy root vegetable, and they provide many benefits.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/sweet-potatoes
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image of bok choy cabbage

       ​    We got some Ghost peppers and also habanero peppers.  Have any of you grown pak Choi?    I have transplants here for you to try.  
 
    I want to tell you for the first time gardeners if you lost plants  because of the freeze please just pull them up and replant.  Don't feel like you made a big mistake.  I have had experience gardeners have the same thing happen to them.  The weather was very good at the end of April, first part of May I get it why you wanted to plant them. It just happens with nature it will play with our best plans.  Just go with it, and continue with gardening.  Please don't feel like you have failed, just replant it will be ok.  As I have said I told one of my experienced gardeners he should have known better.  Weather plays a big part in our gardening from this freeze, to the extreme heat, to all the rain, to no rain.  All out of your hands just work with what you have.  I do have plenty of tomatoes yet, peppers are growing and ready for next week.  We are planting the 3rd crop of these things so they will continue into June.  I am getting more plug trays to grow annuals.  Seed trays are getting planted with the 4th crop of vegetables.  It helps when I can grow new crops of annuals and vegetables.  Also we are planting lilies, daylilies, hostas, iris for your perennial bed.  Here is interesting article about growing bok choy cabbage. 
 
Growing bok choy (Brassica rapa) is an excellent way to extend the gardening season. As a cool-season crop, planting bok choy in late summer allows gardeners to utilize garden space which is freed up when earlier crops are done for the year. Bok choy is frost hardy, so it continues to grow after cold weather has eliminated insects and pests.
 
How to Grow Bok Choy
As a fall crop, bok choy care is simple. It can be direct-seeded ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 13 mm.) deep in rich, fertile garden soil. In areas where rains create saturated conditions, good drainage is recommended. Fall crops can be planted in full sun. Planting bok choy in small batches every two weeks will supply a steady and continuous harvest.
 
Planting bok choy for a spring crop is more challenging. As a biennial, bok choy is extremely prone to bolting . This occurs when exposure to frost or extended temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) is followed by a rise in temperatures. Winter conditions, followed by a warm spell, triggers bok choy into its second-year flowering stage.
 
To prevent spring crops from bolting, try starting seedlings indoors 4 weeks before the final frost date . Use a quality seed starting soil mix  into which bok choy seeds can be sowed to a depth of ¼ to ½ inch (6 to 13 mm.). Then hold off transplanting bok choy into the garden until all danger of cold weather has passed. Space plants 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm.) apart and mulch to keep soil cool and moist.
 
To further discourage bolting when growing bok choy as a spring crop, try planting bok choy in partial shade and keep it well-watered. Growing the smaller or “baby” varieties of bok choy can also help as they mature 10 to 14 days sooner than the standard size.
 
Additionally, growing bok choy as a spring crop leaves it more vulnerable to pests, such as cabbage loopers , flea beetles and aphids. Row covers may be necessary in order to harvest blemish-free leaves.
When to Harvest Bok Choy
The mature size of bok choy depends upon the variety. The standard varieties can reach 12 to 24 inches (30 to 61 cm.) tall, while baby bok choy matures under 10 inches (25 cm.). However, harvesting bok choy  can begin as soon as usable leaves have developed.
 
Young, tender plants which were culled when thinning bok choy can be used in fresh salads or tossed in stir fries. Some standard-size varieties can also be picked young and resemble baby bok choy plants.
 
It’s best to monitor spring crops for early signs of flowering. If plants begin to bolt, harvest immediately to prevent total loss of the crop. Fall crops can often be held in the garden until needed and remain usable even after frosts and light freezes. To harvest, use a knife to cut the plant at ground level.
 
Whenever possible, plan to harvest bok choy in usable amounts, as it has a much shorter shelf life and is more difficult to preserve than other members of the cabbage family. When stored unwashed in a plastic bag, bok choy lasts about 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator.
Article printed from Gardening Know How: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty iowa beckmall@netins.net

images from Ann Chambers

       ​    This year I have purchased some full sized peony bushes.  So if you want some for your landscape we have them here.  I don't know if you can tell by the picture but they are good size.  They will be on sale this week.  Regular price $50.00, sale price $42.00  4 colors  Coral Charm, Festiva Maxima, Raspberry Sundae, and Sarah Bernhardt. 
 
One of the most magnificent mainstays of the garden is the common herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora). Peony plants are virtually pest-free—deer and rabbits don’t like their bitter taste—and peonies in containers can be planted almost any time!
 
Showy and fragrant, peonies will make excellent cut flowers—and the plants are so long-lived that it is commonly said that peonies will outlive the gardeners who plant them! If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention.
 
Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a Zone 2 winter (that’s a low of -50 degrees F).
Even when they are not in bloom, their dark green, glossy foliage and shrub-like appearance make them handsome focal points in the garden.
 
Plant Peonies Any Time
While September is the best time to divide or plant bare root peonies (since they are dormant in the fall), container-grown peonies can be planted at any time. If you are looking longingly at your neighbor’s peonies and wishing you had some right now, go for it!
 
Many nurseries offer early, midseason, and late blooming varieties, making it possible for you to stretch out the peony season over many weeks. There are 6 flower types to choose from: anemone, single, Japanese, semi-double, double, and bomb. The colors range from pristine white to pink, peach, yellow, magenta, deep reds, and even bi-colors.
Fragrances vary as well—some plants such as ‘Festiva Maxima’ and ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ have intoxicating rose-like scents while others are lemony or have no scent at all. If fragrance is important to you, give them the sniff test before you buy.
 
Tips for Planting Peonies Properly
•In choosing a spot for your new peony to grow, make sure it will get lots of light—6 to 8 hours of full sun is best for producing a profusion of flowers but it will still perform well in a location with morning sun and light afternoon shade.
•Peony plants will need well-drained, neutral soil away from competing tree roots. This plant will grow to cover an area about 3 feet in diameter so make sure you give it plenty of room. Once planted it can remain undisturbed for many years as long as it is flowering well.
•Planting depth is critical; if planted too deeply it won’t bloom. When planting a container-grown peony, cover it no deeper than it grew in the pot.  Which is only 2" from the top of the soil.
•Try not to disturb the rootball or damage the feeder roots. A newly planted peony can take up to 3 years to reach its full flowering potential but once established, this plant likes to be left alone.
 
Seeing ants on your peony buds? Don’t worry! Ants love to harvest the sweet sap covering the flowers buds but are harmless and may even keep other insects away.
•Peonies plants are virtually pest-free; deer and rabbits don’t like them very much.
•The only serious problem peonies ever get is “botyrtis,” a fungal disease can be avoided with good air circulation around the plant. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (in the trash, not in your compost pile). If you plant properly and avoid crowding, you shouldn’t have this problem.
 
Caring for Peonies
Peonies need support while growing due to their heavy flowers and brittle stems of the larger flowering varieties. Peony rings were invented for just this purpose or you can use a wire tomato cage. Placing the support around the plants early in spring is ideal so you don’t accidently pierce the crown.
 
Many of the newer hybrids are being developed with stronger stems to eliminate this problem and single, anemone, or semi-double flowering varieties usually don’t need staking.
•Deadhead peonies after they finish flowering. The petals will brown which isn’t attractive. Cut the stem underneath the old bloom, leaving the foliage alone.
•Wait until the fall to cut back the foliage to discourage overwintering of pests. Mulch new plants with evergreen boughs or salt marsh hay after the ground freezes.
•Peonies can be susceptible to powdery mildew in late summer. Don’t worry. The white, powdery mildew fungus may not be pretty but it seems harmless. Better air circulation can avoid mildew.
 
If you share my passion for peonies, get out there and enjoy them! Pick lots of of bouquets to perfume the house! Like all good things, peony blossoms won’t last forever and you don’t want to miss a minute!
 
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/how-grow-peonies-peony-care-tips
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

images from Ann Chambers

      ​      I have worked many of Mother's Day and shared with the mother's that have come in.  I want to wish each one of you a Happy Mother's Day.  Again this year all is different than we have had before.  One to remember. 
     For my devotionals I use the book by Joyce Meyer, The Power of being Thankful.
I just can't believe with each devotional on the day that it is to be read how meaningful it is for that day. 
The Gift of Right Now
So do not worry or be anxious about tomorrow, for tomorrow will have worries and
anxieties of its own.  Matthew 6:34
 
     There is an anoiting ( God's presence and power) on today.  In John 8:58, Jesus referred to HImslef as "I AM".  If you and I , as his disciples, try to live in the past or the future, we are going to find life hard for us because Jesus is always in the present.
     Jesus has plainly told us we don't need to worry about anyting.  All we need to do is seek HIm and his ways, and He will add to us whatever we need, whether it is food or clothing or shelter or spiritual growth.  We don't need to be concerned about tomorrow.  Insted, we can concentrate on today and thank God for today's blessings.
     Calm down and lighten up!  Laugh more and worry less.  Don't ruin today by worrying about yesterday or tomorrow, neither of which you can do anything about.  Enjoy today while you still can!
    Let us pray.  I am grateful, Lord, for this day that You have given me.  With Your help, I'm going to live in the present, not in the past or in the future.  I thank You for what you ahve in store for me today.  In your name we pray AMEN
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net