image from blogs.cornell.edu

      ​    We are back to warmer temperatures which is great for the harvest has started here in Northern Iowa.  It is going to be dry this week, which will lead to lots of watering of our plants.  How is your gardens doing?  I know some of them are at the end of the season.  We have mums to add to your garden color.  Larry just went to get another load of them.  25 plants, and 2 are sold out of this bunch.  So I guess come when you can this week to get your mums.  I am open till 9-6 Monday thru Friday.  I will stay open on Saturday to help with the sales.  Also, we have fall planting bulbs to add color for your spring garden.  Lots of time to plant these bulbs so stop and pick them up also.  It is amazing how well the mums are selling but price for the size is what is helping.  $12.00 per mum or buy 3 or more for $10.00 each. 
PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING SWEET POTATOES  By The Editors
Are you growing sweet potatoes? With their deep orange flesh, these edible roots have a naturally-sweet flavor and are a top source of beta-carotene. Thriving in warm soil, unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes will be ready to harvest just as the ends of the vines begin to turn yellow, or just before frost. Perfect timing for autumn foods and the holiday table!
The sweet potato is a large, sweet-tasting root of the morning glory family. (Regular potatoes belong to the nightshade family). This is a very undemanding crop to grow; sweet potatoes are drought- and heat-tolerant and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and relatively low in calories. In addition, we think that the sweet potatoes’ lush vines make a lovely ground cover for beds.
The only major requirement for sweet potatoes is sun and warm soil; this is a tropical plant.
Though traditionally more of a Southern crop, there are many short-season varieties of sweet potato today which will grow in the North (even Canada!) as long as they have several months of warm weather. Mulching planting beds with black plastic warms soil in northern regions.
Sweet potatoes aren’t started by seed like most other vegetables, they’re started from slips—small rooted pieces of tuber which are sliced right off the sweet potato.
Sweet Potatoes vs. Yams
True yams” are rarely found in U.S. grocery stores and are starchy, dry tubers from Africa. They are related to lilies and have a cylindrical shape with blackish or brown, bark-like skin and white, purple, or reddish flesh. You can often find them in specialty stores.
In U.S. grocery stores, you’ll often find two different type of sweet potatoes: “firm” and “soft.” Groceries stores will often call the “firm” type a “sweet potato” and the “soft” type a “yam” to differentiate the two, even though neither is a true yam. To add to the confusion, it’s the “soft” sweet potato with the deep orange flesh and copper skin that we usually plant and eat. Even if stores call it a yam! Just look carefully at the flesh and skin to confirm which is which.
HOW TO HARVEST SWEET POTATOES
You can start digging up the potatoes as soon as they are big enough for a meal. Often, this is 3 to 4 months from when you planted the slips (most varieties take at least 100 days to reach maturity).
Usually, sweet potatoes are ready to harvest when the leaves and ends of the vines have started turning yellow, but you can leave them in the ground up until the fall frost.
Since the roots spread 4 to 6 inches deep in the soil, a spade fork is useful when digging up the potatoes. Loosen the soil around the plant (18-inch diameter) so you do not injure the tubers. It’s fine to cut some of the vines away.
Pull up the primary crown of the plant and use your hands to dig up the tubers. Handle the sweet potatoes carefully, as they bruise easily.
After digging up the tubers, shake off any excess dirt, but do not wash the roots.
You must cure sweet potatoes or they will not have that delicious, sweet taste. Curing the potatoes allows a second skin to form over scratches and bruises that occur when digging up the potatoes. To cure, keep the roots in a warm place (about 80°F/27°C) at high humidity (about 90%) for 10 to 14 days. A table outside in a shady spot works well. For best curing, make sure that the potatoes are not touching one another.
After curing, throw out any bruised potatoes, and then wrap each one in newspaper and pack them carefully in a wooden box or basket. Store the sweet potatoes in a root cellar, basement, or other place with a temperature of at least 55°F/13°C. 
If stored at a temperature range of 55–60°F (13–15.5°C) with high humidity, the tubers should last for about 6 months. When removing the potatoes from storage, remember to be gentle; do not dig around or else you will bruise the potatoes.
Sweet potatoes will retain their color better if cooked with a slice of lemon.Sweet potatoes are a very healthy root vegetable, and they provide many benefits.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/sweet-potatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

reblooming iris Sugar BLue

reblooming iris Summer Olympics 

           I will be around on Saturday if you want to come and pick up mums or any fall planting bulbs. I will be closed on Sunday.  I will be working at the house, but will see you drive up and come over to the greenhouse.  Becky Litterer
     Here are the rest of the bulbs I have in for your fall planting season.
Muscari Blue Spike Grape Hyacinth 9/+                                                 
Crocus  Remembrance  9/10
 Daffodil Dutch master 14/16
 Daffodil Ice follies 14/16
 Tulip Blood Red
 Tulip Big Smile
 Tulip Tom Pouce
Tulip
 Narcissi Tete a tete 12/+
 Narcissi February Gold 14/+
 Hyacinth Blue Eyes  16/17
 Hyacinth Pink Pearl  16/17
Hyacinth Carnegie  16/17
 Allium christophii 
 Allium Gladiator
 Allium sphaerocephalon
 Chionodoxa Luciiae
Bearded iris Sugar Blues Rebloomer
Bearded Iris Summer Olympics Rebloomer

  Stop in Monday thru Friday 9-6.  Tomorrow Sept 19th I will be open from 9-5.  Thanks hope that helps.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365 

image from Pinterest 

      ​Chilly this morning, temperature after sunrise was 40.  But it is going to warm up.  High today of 67 with a low of 44.  Looks like the next 10 days the temperature will just get warmer, and no moisture predicted.  Fall starts next week, so it looks good, no frost yet.  I have mums, fall planting bulbs, succulents, house plants for your gardening needs.  I will be here tomorrow Saturday if that helps with you coming to get plants.  But I will be closed on Sunday. 
I sometimes wonder why I am in the climate business. According to folklore, those leaves you have to rake up will tell you all you need to know about winter.  Are your chrysanthemums really pretty? Get out the mittens. The birds and bees are not only into living apparently, they are weather forecasters as well.
Here is a sample of rodent wisdom: Squirrels gathering nuts in a flurry,  Will cause snow to gather in a hurry.
In addition, a tough winter is ahead if squirrels’ tails are very bushy. (Are you polishing the snow shovel yet?)
Weather folklore claims squirrels know about winter! Source: National Park Service
Birds and bees are giving you hints as well. When birds migrate early or bees build their nests high in the trees, the winter is going to be a Old Farmer's Almanac
Did you know that bird behavior can help us predict the weather? Closely observe nature and your feathered friends—and you might be surprised by what you learn!
Look up one of these days.  Watch birds in flight. Birds flying high in the sky usually indicate fair weather. As the adage goes …
Hawks flying high means a clear sky. When they fly low, prepare for a blow.
Geese fly higher in fair weather than in foul.
Air pressure does indeed affect birds. For example, swallows have sensitive ears; when the barometric pressure drops, they fly as close to the ground as possible, where air density is greatest. Generally, low-flying birds are signs of rain; high flyers indicate fair weather.
Migrating birds can fly more easily in dense, high pressure conditions. Therefore, geese may fly high when a high pressure system moves to the area. High pressure systems are associated with fair weather.
Birds tend to stop flying and take refuge at the coast if a storm is coming. They’ll also fly low to avoid the discomfort of the falling air pressure.
When seagulls fly inland, expect a storm.
When fowls roost in daytime, expect rain.
Petrels gathering under the stern of a ship indicates bad weather.
Birds tend to get very quiet before a big storm. If you’ve ever been walking in the woods before a storm, the natural world is eerily silent! Birds also sing if the weather is improving.
Birds singing in the rain indicates fair weather approaching.
Here are more bird proverbs and prognostics. Enjoy!
If crows fly in pairs, expect fine weather; a crow flying alone is a sign of foul weather.
The whiteness of a goose’s breastbone indicates the kind of winter: A red of dark-spotted bone means a cold and stormy winter; few or light-colored spots mean a mild winter.
Partridges drumming in the fall means a mild and open winter.
When domestic geese walk east and fly west, expect cold weather.
If birds in the autumn grow tame, the winter will be too cold for game.
When the rooster goes crowing to bed, he will rise with watery head.
When the swallow’s nest is high, the summer is very dry. When the swallow buildeth low, you can safely reap and sow.
See how insects predict weather.  A narrow band of brown on a woolly caterpillar means the same thing.
Plants are in the weather business as well. When leaves drop early, autumn and winter will be mild; but if they fall late, winter will be severe. Other signs of a bad winter are Flowers blooming in late autumn,  Cornhusks are thick and tight,  Apple skins are tough, Onion skins are tough and Berries and nuts are plentiful. (That might be why the squirrels are so busy.)
Some of these are based on old-fashioned observation. La Niñas tend to be dry in summer and cold in winter, so if birds leave early, the leaves fall quickly, onions and apples are tough, and caterpillars are short, it may be due to the La Niña drought. A miserable La Niña winter will follow.
Some folklore is warning of a cold La Niña winter.
Other folklore is just based on the idea that you shouldn’t let your guard down. Lots of berries, nuts and flowers may be the sign of a lovely warm November. However, look out, winter will probably be awful.
As for the squirrels—ignore them. They’re just squirrelly!

      ​  Cool for the next 3 days, then the temperature will warm up for next week.  Still we can’t complain about this weather.  I am posting pictures of the fall planting bulbs we have here.  They are high quality bulbs from Holland.  I am really impressed with them and I know you will love them to plant this fall, and what they look like next spring.  Also we have the mums here so you can still do gardening at Becky’s Greenhouse.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

     What a lovely day out.  Sun is shining and a little cloudy but not too bad with the smoke from the west yet. A little breeze  but temperature is 80 degrees.  Feels so much better than last week when it was rainy and cold.  Still a touch of summer….but Larry went and got the third load of mums yesterday.  We are ready for your fall decorating.  9” potted mums with full blooms ready to be blooming.  For $12.00 each of 3 or more for 10.00 each.  I am here from 9-6 Monday thru Friday and if it will help, I will be open on Saturday for your shopping needs.  Also got the fall planting bulbs in and that will be in the next post about what we have. 
I am going to just show you 6 pictures of the mums.  Stop in and pick yours up.  I had lots of success at the Geneva Market with these mums all were very pleased with the price and the size of them.  Enjoy! And we know that fall is coming. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.ent 641-797-3337 cell 641-903-9365
​

image from Pinterest 

     ​      I had a busy weekend.  Being at the Geneva Market Friday and Saturday.  Friday was my birthday and it wasn’t a very nice day for weather.  Rainy, windy, cold so outside sales were not the best, but Saturday made up the difference as being a awesome day for selling at the Geneva Market.   But with getting ready for the market with a 10-page newsletter, and packing up all the stuff to take, that took most of last week to do that.  That is the reason I have not written on this blog.  But now we are unpacked, and things are going back into the greenhouse.  Mums were very popular only brought one back.  I am getting more today.  I do not raise them I do buy these in. One of the few things I do buy in.  Also today got the fall planting bulbs in.  Greenhouse will be open from 9-6 Monday thru Friday.  I also will be around on Saturday for sales if that helps you to come and pick up mums, fall planting bulbs, succulents, irises, peonies for planting this fall.  House plants look great if you are in the market for them.  Tomorrow I will have the mums on the rack so plan on coming after today for your mums.  They are in a 9” pot and are very full.  They sell for $12.00 each or 3 or more for $10.00 each.  I will show you a picture tomorrow of how they look and the size they are.  Here is an article about what else to plant in that fall arrangement.  What I have listed is the plants I have here.  I have flowering Kale and flowering cabbage to use in your fall.
Many of the same fall-flowering plants grown in the garden make fine specimens for containers and hanging baskets. Good candidates for fall containers include any flowering plant that has a genetic disposition to fall blooming or has a long-lasting bloom period that extends into fall. Good tolerance for the cooler temperatures of fall is also essential; heat-loving species don't make good fall flowers.
Traditionally, containers and hanging baskets are planted with vigorous-blooming annual flowers, but increasingly, gardeners are using traditional garden perennials for their containers. While plant species have varying soil needs when planted in garden settings, most plants do quite well in containers filled with an ordinary general-purpose potting soil.
Here are good ornamental plants to consider for your fall container gardens.
Coral Bells (Heuchera cultivars)
Coral Bells, a long-favored species for gardens, has also become a favorite container plant. These perennial plants come in a huge range of colors and leaf textures, and they are almost impossible to kill. Coral bells is a mounding plant and it looks great on its own their own or paired with plants that either contrasting plants or offer varying shades of the same color. Coral bells can work especially well with gourds, mums, and ornamental grasses. Choose a dark, almost black leaf, like 'Dolce, Licorice' or choose the lighter 'Dolce, Peach Melba' for a terrific fall plant that works well with many fall decorations. They also look lovely when paired with pumpkin planters.  USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 8
Color Varieties: Red, white, coral, pink  Sun Exposure: Full sun to partial sun  Soil Needs: Moist, loamy soil  Soil Needs: Acidic soil
Oxalis or Shamrock (Oxalis regnellii)
A warm-weather perennial generally grown as an annual, oxalis is elegant and cheerful. It is exceedingly easy to grow and likes partial shade to full shade. Oxalis is a mounding plant and grows to be 12 to 18 inches high, making it a good plant to use in filling out a container. It comes in several colors including a nearly black, ‘Charmed Velvet', and a burgundy color called ‘Charmed Wine'. Another plus about oxalis is that you can bring it inside to overwinter.
USDA Growing Zones: 8 to 11  Color Varieties: Mauve, lavender  Sun Exposure: Partial shade
Soil Needs: Well-draining soil Ornamental Cabbage and Kale (Brassica oleracea)
Ornamental cabbages are delightfully chubby and cheerful plants, while the kales are spiky. However, both of these plants will take you well into fall with style and beautiful sage greens blended with pinks and purples. As a bonus, the colors of flowering cabbage and kale only intensify as the weather gets colder, especially after a frost. Cabbages are wonderful grouped in either rustic garden planters or low baskets. They also can bring some great color and texture to mixed container gardens. Kales can look great in funky shallow baskets, window boxes, or modern metal planters with clean lines. These are bold plants, so don’t be afraid to put them in unusual containers or combine them with unlikely plants.
USDA Growing Zones: 2 to 11  Color Varieties: Ornamental leaves in purple, rose, cream
Sun Exposure: Full sun to partial shade  Soil Needs: Loamy soil
Sedum (Sedum, Hylotelephium spp.)  Stonecrop
 The very large Sedum genus recently was split, with 33 species reassigned to the Hylotelephium genus). This included some standard favorites, such as 'Autumn Joy, now known as Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude' AUTUMN JOY. However, they are all still generally known by the common name of sedum, or stonecrop.
Many of the fall-blooming Sedum (or Hylotelephium) species are classic plants for fall container gardens. Blooming in late summer to early fall, sedum is easy to grow in containers, and there is a vast array of species and cultivars with different textures and flowers. Sedum is a particularly good choice of plant for a fall container that you want to leave out all winter because the dried flowers can look beautiful, especially covered with snow or frost. Some varieties can get pretty tall and are great to use in the center or back of a container.  USDA Growing Zones: 3 to 10 Color Varieties: Pink to mauve Sun Exposure: Full sun  Soil Needs: Average soil with good drainage Garden Mums (Chrysanthemum morifolium)
Garden Mum
The potted garden mums that are sold so prevalently for fall display are typically forced into late bloom by commercial growers, who keep them closely pruned back until late July, waiting until early fall to put them out for sale at nurseries. If you are growing your own potted mums from transplants purchased in spring, they will be likely to bloom in mid to late summer unless you pinch off all buds and keep the shoots pruned back. If you stop pruning in early July, the plants will likely flesh out and begin blooming in September.
Although they are perennials, mums are more typically grown as annuals, discarded after blooming ends with the frost of late fall. But potted mums can sometimes be overwintered if you cut back the shoots and place them in a sheltered location over the coldest months. Put the pots back into a warm sunny location in spring, and keep them closely pruned again until mid-summer.
USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 9  Color Varieties:  Lavender, white, yellow, red, and orange Sun Exposure: Full sun Soil Needs: Moist, well-drained soil
Fountain Grass
Although not a flower, this ornamental grass makes a good centerpiece for large mixed containers, presented best when surrounded by cascading plants. The stalks are topped with attractive bristling seed heads in late summer, which last well into fall. The plant has an arching, clumping growth habit and grows up to 5 feet tall. Purple fountain grass is a warm-weather perennial often grown as an annual, since it grows quickly from seeds.
USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11  Color Varieties: Burgundy red Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
Soil Needs: Medium-moisture, well-drained soil
Tip
To keep your garden interesting even in winter, choose plants like sedum that can overwinter with continuously interesting flowers and foliage. 
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/five-great-plants-fall-container-gardens-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

     ​     Cool, wet morning again. Now afternoon it is still cool but stopped raining so that is good.  We moved the wagons and set up the awning at Geneva Market this morning.  We will be bringing all the plants and stuff tomorrow morning.  We will be there.  Here are the mums we are taking over to Geneva.  $12.00 or 3 or more for $10.00 each.  Some of the fall planting bulbs made it so will be bringing them.  Along with lots of succulents from .50 to $10.00.   I will have peonies, and irises that can be planted now for the spring.  House plants, ferns for the house, miniature gardening stuff starting at $1.00.  I will have some bulk vegetable seeds there for the garden now to plant.  Market is from 10-7 on Friday, Saturday from 10-4.  Hope to see you there.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image from clipground

    ​      GOOD morning, and what a different morning this is.  Rainy, but the big surprise is the temperature. 48 degrees at 8:00 AM feels like 43 with the wind.  But the high is only 55.  Compared to the 90 degrees we had on Sunday.  Seems like western US is experiencing the same thing.  In fact, Jennifer sent a video of snow in Wyoming on Monday.  Fall not here yet but sure feels like it.  Stay safe.
PICKING, STORING, AND PROCESSING APPLES TO ENJOY ALL YEAR
It’s apple season! Find out when apples are ready to be picked, how to properly pick an apple, how to store apples to keep as long as possible, and what to do with a glut of apples—from freezing apples, drying apples, making apple juice, and more apple treats!
WHEN AND HOW TO PICK APPLES
There are some clues to look out for when checking if apples are ready to harvest. The skin color will become deeper. Fruits at the sides and top of the tree will usually ripen first because they receive the most sunlight. Finding windfalls on the ground below the tree is a good sign that apples are ready to harvest. If in doubt, pick and taste one!
Never tug an apple from the tree. Instead, cup it in the palm of your hand, lift it up and twist it gently. A ripe apple will come away easily, complete with its stalk. Apples on the same tree will ripen at different rates, so harvest regularly. Handle apples carefully to avoid bruising them, and take care when using a ladder to pick apples from higher up on the tree.
STORING APPLES
Early season varieties don’t store well, so eat them as soon as possible after picking. Mid-season varieties should keep for several weeks, and late season varieties will store for up to six months.
Stored correctly, most varieties of late-season apples should safely keep to the end of the year, and some as long as next spring!
Only store apples with no bruises or blemishes.
Ideally, pick apples in the morning while it’s still cool, and slightly under-ripe so they don’t over-ripen in storage.
Store apples in a dark, well-ventilated, cool but frost-free place, such as a garage or shed. Check your stored apples regularly and remove any that show signs of damage or rotting.Store apples in slatted boxes or racks.
Ideally, stored apples do not touch. They should be on slatted trays or racks or slatted boxes to allow air to circulate. You can also store them wrapped in newspaper. Keep different varieties separate, and eat those that won’t store as long first.
Make sure there is good air circulation, and prevent apples from touching in storage so that if one goes bad it won’t spread to the others. In cooler areas it’s worth insulating boxes with hay, straw or shredded paper over winter.
Large apples are likely to begin to go bad faster than small ones, so eat those first. Check on stored apples regularly and use up or compost any that are going bad. Alternatively, feed them to your garden birds.
PROCESSING APPLES
Fall brings an abundance of juicy apples. But what to do with them all?
Freeze Apples
Freeze apples for use in baking, smoothies, jam, jelly and applesauce.
Core and peel your apples. Cut them into slices and coat them in lemon juice to prevent discoloring. One lemon should provide enough juice to treat slices from up to ten apples.
Place your apple slices onto a cookie sheet, then put them into the freezer. Once frozen, transfer them into freezer bags or containers. This prevents the slices from freezing into a single lump. Alternatively, simply freeze them in portion-sized containers.
You can also prepare ready-to-bake apple pie fillings for the freezer.
Make Apple Rings
Wash and core your apples, and peel them if you wish. Cut them into very thin slices up to a quarter-inch thick, then place them onto oven racks or dehydrator trays so they’re not touching. Set your dehydrator temperature to 135ºF, or set your oven as low as it will go. Your apple rings are ready when they’re dry and leathery to the touch; this takes between six and 12 hours. Or why not dry them further for crispy apple chips?
Once your apple rings have cooled, pack them into airtight bags or containers. Store somewhere cool, dark and dry for up to six months.
Make Apple Juice
Apples can be juiced without any specialist equipment. Core and chop apples, then place them in a large stewpot. Cover with water, bring to the boil, then place the lid on and simmer on a low heat until the apples turn mushy. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, working a spoon back and forth over it to extract the juice.
If you wish, filter your juice through cheesecloth or coffee filters to make it less cloudy. Taste and adjust sweetness. Add more water if necessary.
Refrigerate your juice and use it within a week, can hot juice in sterilized jars, or freeze in airtight containers for up to six months.
(I have canned apples sauce all ready, so don’t forget about apple sauce.  Becky said)
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/how-pick-store-and-process-apples-winter
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9635

image from allisamazingblogspot.com 

     ​  It is back to cool temperatures after Sunday of hot and humid.  It does feel like fall, and looks like all this next week.  Enjoy today and stay safe.  Monday Labor day last of the summer. 
    Just asked this question why aren’t my hollyhocks I planted this spring blooming?  I didn’t know so I looked it up.  I was surprised with the answer.  Do you know why they aren’t blooming?  Give us your thoughts in the comments. Then read the article.
If you’re looking for a way to dramatize your landscape at the height of summer, you can’t do better than hollyhocks (Alcea rosea). Perfect in cottage gardens and borders, hollyhocks add height and charm to any setting. They are also one of midsummer’s showiest bloomers, but be aware that they do not bloom until their second year.
Identification
Sometimes growing to a height of 8 feet, hollyhocks are a dramatic garden plant. They spread to a width of 1 to 2 feet, and their large, heart-shaped green leaves offer a pleasing background to the showy flowers. Though some varieties may only grow well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, most hollyhocks grow in USDA zones 2 through 10.
Blooms
Hollyhocks have large, bell-shaped flowers that range from 4 to 5 inches across and are open throated and colorful. Traditionally, the flowers come in red, white or a range of pink hues, but they can also be yellow or violet. Flowers can be single or double and grow upward along the stem.
Because hollyhocks are biennial, flowers do not appear until the second year of growth. Blooms first appear in June and continue flowering through the summer, usually finishing in August.
Culture
Hollyhocks appreciate well-draining soil in full sun. Although they like a medium amount of moisture and grow in a range of soil types, they prefer their soil mostly dry. Wet winter soil usually has negative effects on hollyhocks, and they may die. Although they are technically a biennial, growing vegetatively their first year and flowering their second, hollyhocks readily self-seed and thus may be treated as perennials.
Garden Uses
Their dramatic height makes hollyhocks perfect for plantings along walls and fences, especially as they appreciate wind protection. hollyhocks can be grown without support, provided they are not knocked down by strong winds. They do well as border plants or when planted in masses for a cottage garden appeal. Large blooms and tall stalks add pleasing contrast with other summer plants.
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/hollyhocks-bloom-first-year-71638.html
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image fromextension.mstate.edu

     ​       Cool front is north of us like at the Minnesota border, but it is affecting our weather as the clouds are moving in and a cool wind.  Looks like rain but it isn’t for us.  How far the weather reaches is amazing.  I will be getting in mums for next week.  It isn’t every year I have them, but this year is one of them.  I will be taking them to the Geneva Market next weekend but will continue to have them here for sale for your fall decorating.  I just can’t believe I am getting plants for the fall.  I just planted the spring plants it seemed like.  The beginning of this pandemic we were busy in the greenhouse planting and we are still at that point with taking care of the virus.  I have had and will have again next spring, mum plants that are perennial so you can plant them in the spring and they will continue to come back.  One of my gardeners said how big hers is this fall after only planting the plant 2 years ago.  I will remind you next spring about this perennial.  Take a look at the article about fall mums being only annuals.  Enjoy the Labor Day weekend, and stay safe. 
GROWING CHRYSANTHEMUMS  By The Editors
Chrysanthemums or “mums” are associated with autumn, appearing in jewel colors in garden centers in September and October. However, if you are growing mums, they are hardy perennial plants best planted in the early spring. Discover how to plant, grow, and care for these colorful members of the daisy family!
WHAT IS A MUM?
The Chrysanthemum is a member of the Asteraceae (Compositae) family, related to dahlias, sunflowers, marigolds, zinnias, and cosmos.  Each bloom is made of hundreds of tiny flowers called florets. The plant ranges in size from a common small cushion mum to the giant spider mums, and they bloom in almost every color of the rainbow:  yellow, lavender, pink, purple, red, bronze, orange, and white. They leaves are a lovely blue/green.
A BRIEF MUM HISTORY
The chrysanthemum was first cultivated in China as a flowering herb back in 15th century B.C. Based on early illustrations, it appeared as more of a daisy-like flower. Since then, the mum has been bred in so many shapes, sizes, showy styles and a multitude of colors that don’t always resemble its humble beginnings.
According to the National Chrysanthemum Society, “the genus Chrysanthemum once included more species, but was split several decades ago into several genera, putting the economically important florist chrysanthemum in the genus Dendranthema.  The placement of the florist chrysanthemum in this genus was very contentious.  A ruling of the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature in 1999 changed the defining species of the genus Chrysanthemum to C. indicum, giving the florist mum back its prized generic name.” The National Chrysanthemum Society divides bloom forms into 13 classes.
DECORATIVE MUMS
Mums that are sold in garden centers in the autumn should be treated as annuals. They are decorative gift plants which are not bred to be hardy; it’s their color, size and form that are prized. If these plants are put in the ground in late summer, many won’t make it through the winter in cold regions.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/chrysanthemums
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365