image from blogspot.com 

I am posting this as we have had the first day of fall.  Larry and I have really noticed the amount of sun has decreased a lot.  Dark in the morning, and dark earlier in the evening.  Found some of these signs of fall happening, and it is time for fall season.  Soon the combines will be in the fields for us in Iowa that is another sign of fall.  Hope all be safe during the harvest.
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What are the first signs of fall? What happens to nature in the fall?  By Catherine Boeckmann
Every year, we observe nature for the signs of the seasons. In our neck of the woods, the signs of fall are acorns falling and squirrels scurrying about. Hawks and hummers are starting to migrate. What are the signs of fall where you live? Let’s use all five of those senses.
The signs of fall start much earlier than the autumnal equinox, even if the weather still feels summery. Look around you. Observe the birds, the plants, the sunrise and set. Here are some signs of fall that you might notice.
Sunlight
Have you noticed that it’s darker now in the mornings? The sun is rising later—and setting earlier, too. The days get noticeably shorter as it gets dark earlier each night. (See your local sunrise/sunset times and length of day.)
If you closely observe the Sun’s path across the sky, you’ll see the arc is shifting south. Did you know that birds and butterflies migrate along with the path of the Sun?
Autumn Air
Breathe in. The outdoors begins to smell a bit different. Do you smell the air changing? Perhaps you smell the plants’ leaves browning or the fallen leaves on the ground?
Insects
Listen at night. You’ll hear the insects singing slower on cool evenings. In fact, did you know that you can tell the temperature by a cricket’s chirp? Find out how.
As the days get shorter and nights get longer, the garden spider spins its web at night, giving it more time to build a larger web during the fall months. (A garden spider does not find food inside your house; in fact, she helps eat insects and prevents them from entering your home!)
Migrating Birds
Listen. Do you hear the calls of geese flying overhead? Hawks, geese, and swallows are migrating south for the winter.
Many readers report that their hummingbirds have left or are leaving for warmer climates as early as mid-August.
Some butterflies migrate while others stay closer to home and begin to seek shelter for the cooler months. Try to leave some leaf litter for your beneficial insects!
Bears
Birds aren’t the only creatures hinting that cold weather’s coming. Our Almanac publisher saw a bear crossing the road in the middle of her walk! Late August to mid-September is prime time for blackberries. Bears are gorging to build up their fat stores before they hibernate.
Folklore says …
It is going to be a tough winter if bears are seen berrying.
Squirrels
If you take regular walks outdoors, you’ll see that the squirrels are busy. They’re collecting ripe brown acorns for their winter stash. Lots of seeds are falling now. Watch for squirrels hiding nuts.
According to folklore … 
If the oak bear much mast [acorns], it foreshadows a long and hard winter.
Other Life
Of course, another way we know autumn’s approaching is to observe the plants and fungi. 
Squash, pumpkin, nuts, and apples are ready for harvest. The other vegetables in the garden are slowing down, ending their cycle of growth. 
Acorns, pinecones, and sycamore “helicopters” fall to the ground. Mushrooms and other fungi pop up everywhere.
Grass doesn’t grow as fast. You’ll also see morning dew. Fall flowers such as asters and goldenrod are blooming.
When you’re walking outdoors, seeds will stick to your jacket or socks.
Some trees’ leaves are already falling. And the leaves on many of the trees are starting to change color. Observe the reds, oranges, yellows, and browns of falling leaves. Interestingly, leaves do not change because of cooler temperatures alone. Learn why autumn leaves change colors.
Weather
It’s not just the tree’s colorful clothing that changes. It’s our own! Shorter days means cooler weather’s coming. The air begins to feel crisper, especially in the morning.
The direction of the wind changes and windy days become more common. Hurricanes and tropical storms begin to happen.
Get ready to add a layer of clothes for a walk in the woods! Add a soft blanket to the sofa. Get cozy!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/signs-autumn-birds-leaves-and-fading-sunlight
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365 

image from 27east 

​This week is the beginning of fall, so here we go.   What a hot and humid day on Tuesday.  NOW today, Wed. it has changed more fall like.   I am working at getting things ready to put back into the greenhouse.  I can’t believe that.  I am also doing lots of canning with tomatoes.  I am very lucky for I give the plants to a gardener he grows them , picks the produce and deliveries them.  BEST of the world for me to do.  I just don’t have time to plant that garden with my garden always on the blacktop on racks.  I just got an electric hot water bath canner.  DO I LOVE IT.  It is awesome.  I think I need to grow more of these for cut flowers, as I love to cut and bring in the house.  How about you? 
 
What is the best way to keep cut flowers fresh and alive longer? Here’s advice from flower farmers to better understand how long different kinds of cut flowers last, how to cut flower stems for a vase, whether cut flowers need sunshine, and more about cut flower care.
When to Cut Fresh Flowers
Cut garden flowers in early in the morning or early evening, when temperatures are cool and the stalks are filled with water. Midday heat is stressful to plants, causing them to wither more readily when cut.
For most flowers, avoid picking when in full bloom or they won’t last as long; pick when they are just starting to show color. (Note: This isn’t true of roses, which do not continue to develop.)
How to Cut Flower Stems for Vase
Always use a sharp knife. Avoid scissors, which can pinch the water channels of the stalks.
Place the stems straight into a bucket of clean, tepid water (not cold water) as soon as possible after cutting.
If possible, leave the flowers in their bucket of water in a cool, dark spot for a few hours to let them stabilize before arranging. Even better, leave them overnight.
Keep flowers as cool as possible, but avoid putting them in your fridge, if you can. Florists’ coolers range from 33° to 40°F, so your fridge likely won’t be cool enough and any fruit or vegetables could emit ethylene gas, which shortens the life of cut flowers.
Flower bouquet
Selecting a Vase
Use a vase that’s large enough to provide plenty of room for all the stems, with a mouth that’s wide enough to allow for good air circulation.
Always use a thoroughly clean vase as bacteria can survive in dirty vases and your flowers may not last as long.
10 Tips on How to Cut Flowers for a Vase
Strip all the leaves from the bottom half to two-thirds of each stem. Do not leave any leaves below the water line, as they could rot and ruin the quality of the water.
Re-cut the stems at an angle. A slanted cut helps if you are using floral foam; a stem with a point is easier to insert. Cut flower stems at an angle also prevents the stem resting on the bottom of the vase and sealing itself over. Angular cuts also great a larger surface area for water uptake.
Cut stems underwater if you wish to shorten the stems on cut flowers before arranging them; otherwise, the stem can take in too much air, causing a blockage that keeps water from the flower. (This is especially true of roses.) Floral supply companies sell underwater cutters; or you can cut a flower in the garden, immediately submerge the stem in warm water, and cut it again in the house while holding it below the water line.
Poppies, milkweed, and other flowers with milky stems should be held in a flame for about 15 seconds immediately after cutting. This seals the latex in the stem but keeps the water-conducting vessels open. Without searing, the latex substance can leak into the water and cause it to spoil quickly. It can also affect the life of other flowers in the vase.
Don’t crush the stems. If you have a woody stem—on lilacs, for example—just cut above the stem. For years, flowers use to use mallets to crush the stem; In fact, pounding the stems makes the stems rot faster in the water. If you can’t cut above the woody stem, submerge the entire stem in water for 20 minutes to an hour before cutting.
Don’t use cold water. Flowers like to be warm and prefer water that is 80° to 110°F. The water in the vase does not need to be maintained at that temperature, but always start cut flowers in warm, not cold, water. Cold water has a higher oxygen content, which can cause air bubbles to form in the stems of your flowers, blocking their water uptake. Spring bulbs such as tulips and daffodils are the exception to this rule as they prefer to be placed in cold water.
Add a tablespoon of sugar to nourish flowers. Some florists use a splash of bleach to inhibit bacterial growth (just ¼ teaspoon per litre of water). Both extend the life of the flowers.
Do NOT put cut flowers in full sun. Display the bouquet away from direct sunlight, heat, or hot and cold drafts. Also, position vase away from fruit bowls.
Check the vase each day. Remove any dead or fading blooms to prevent bacteria damaging the healthy flowers.
Change the water every few days, refreshing any flower feed as well.
Gerberas flowers
How Long Do Cut Flowers Last
Dianthus (including Carnations, Pinks and Sweet Williams) are some of the best known of all cut flowers. They last 14 to 21 days!
True Lilies such as Oriental Lilies last 8 to 10 days and add dramatic flair. When cutting lilies in the garden, leave a third of the lower stem. Note: Daylilies (which not true lilies) are not cutting flowers; they don’t last more than one day.
Sunflowers and gladiolus both have a vase life of 7 to 10 days, and both make great cut flowers.
Chrysanthemums last for a week or more.
Tulips have a vase life up to 7 days; they continue to grow after you arrange them.  (Some flowers, such as daffodils, contain a type of sap that will shorten the vase life of other flowers. Tulips don’t mix with daffodils.)
Peonies last 5 to 7 days. (Note: Take no more than a few blooms from each peony plant and avoid cutting stems from plants that are less than three years old.)
Sweet peas last 3 to 7 days and add nice height to a flower arrangement. The more you cut your sweet peas in the garden, the more they will bloom!
Here are reader favorites from the flower cutting garden:
In May to July: Narcissus, Tulips, Peony, Snapdragon, Butterfly Ranunculus, Salvia.
July to September: Sunflowers, Zinnia, Cosmos, Rudbeckia, Dahlias, Stock, Asters, Statice, Amaranthus
We hope these tips help you extend the lives of your cut flower arrangements.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-keep-cut-flowers-fresh-and-alive-longer
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from lawnstarter.com 

I just feed the cats and it feels cool but at the same time warm.  Hope you know what I mean?  Summer like temperatures today and humidity coming back.  Rain this weekend.  Days are getting shorter, trees are turning, plants are slowing down growing, songbirds are gone, hints that fall is coming.  Next week is the first day of fall.   ENJOY what we have. 
NOW here is when you need to plant those tulips, and daffodil bulbs and also the allium bulbs.  I have so many gardeners want them in the spring and come looking for them at the greenhouse.  NOW is the time to get the bulbs and plant them.  Some information about fall planting bulbs for spring blooms.

Planting Fall Bulbs for Spring Flowers
If you haven’t planted bulbs before, fall is the perfect time! We’ve listed the best, most reliable fall bulbs for a glorious springtime display—including which bulbs are deer-resistant. We also have a wonderful chart that shows which flowers bloom in early, mid-, and late spring, providing color all season!

What Are Fall Bulbs?
Fall bulbs don’t flower in the fall. They’re planted in the fall to then bloom gloriously in the springtime! Think crocus, snowdrops, daffodils, tulips, and hyacinth, among others.  This is in contrast to summer-flowering bulbs such as dahlias, elephant ear, caladium, gladiolus, and cannas, which are planted in the spring. 

Why do we plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall? These spring beauties are what we call “dormant perennial.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show.
If you’re a beginner gardener, bulbs are so easy to pop in the ground (and spark your interest in gardening)! They’re foolproof to plant and really lift the spirits, not to mention feed the early pollinators such as the drowsy queen bumblebees.
When to Plant Fall Bulbs
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 60°F in the late fall or about 6 weeks before a hard frost is expected. This is usually during September and October in the North. (Halloween is a good deadline to set.)  In the South, bulbs are generally planted a little later—in October and November. (Tulips are one exception—you can plant tulips as late in winter as you can get them into the soil.)

In the warmest parts of the South, you may need to pre-cool some bulbs. Most fall bulbs require a 12 to 16 week cold period in ventilated packages in the bottom of your refrigerator at 40° to 50°F before planting. Check with your bulb supplier to determine whether the bulbs you purchase have been pre-cooled or whether you may need to give them a cold treatment.
Also, in warmer climates, note that some bulbs will only bloom once and then they’re done for the season. For example, you will have to plant tulip bulbs again each year. Still, they are a beautiful sight to behold and well worth the effort! Other fall bulbs, such as daffodils, will act as perennials and come up year after year.

How to Plant Fall Bulbs
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task (unless you’ve ordered hundreds of them), but there are some things that you want to make sure to get right. Here are tips to keep in mind:
Bulbs need at least part sun throughout the spring. They look beautiful growing beneath trees (before the trees leave out) as planted en mass or in drifts, amidst wildflowers, and mixed witih spring annuals in containers.

Bulbs need a spot with good drainage or they may rot. Work a few inches of compost or organic matter into the soil before planting for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soils. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
Of course, the first tip is to remember to plant bulbs with the point facing up! Examine bulbs carefully before placing them in the planting hole, being sure to set them with the roots facing downward.

The general rule is to plant bulbs at a depth of three times the width of the bulb. Consider bloom time for each bulb (early spring, mid-spring, late spring) and plant bulbs with different bloom times so that you have flowers throughout spring! Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.

 Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout (or are devoured by hungry squirrels). Plant them in random order and spacing for a more natural appearance. Or, if you love groves of daffodils and blanketed landscapes of tulips, be prepared to buy and plant a large quantity of bulbs together!

 You can use a special bulb-planting hand tool to assist you, but if you are planting en masse by the dozens, just use a shovel and make a wide hole for planting many bulbs at once.
After planting, apply fertilizer that’s fairly low in nitrogen, such as a 9-6-6 formulation.
Water bulbs deeply after planting—and remember, if your bulb was planted 6” deep into the soil, that water needs to soak in 6” deep to benefit the bulb. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting.

Water again before the ground freezes — the wintertime is when they are developing roots. Don’t overwater which can lead to bulb rot. Gardeners in southern locations can water again in late December or early January if it’s been an unusually dry winter.

Apply mulch to the planting area to keep the weeds down, hold in moisture, and avoid heaving from wintertime thawing and freezing.
Note: You will not need to start watering again until the flower buds first appear on the plant in the spring. Once bulbs start growing in the spring, water once a week (if you haven’t had any measurable rain) — this is especially important while they’re flowering. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom.

 Choosing Bulbs
Generally speaking, higher-quality bulbs are bigger (for their type) and will flower more profusely. Second-rate bulbs don’t germinate as often, have smaller blooms, and often don’t return year after year.

Good bulbs should be fresh and firm, not brittle or rotted or moldy. Also, choose bulbs with intact husks to better fight any disease. When you receive bulbs, plant immediately or store in a cool, dark, dry place at around 60° to 65°F. Temperatures above 70°F. may damage the flower buds.

Do you have voles or squirrels or deer? We would consider the beautiful tulip and the delicate crocus off your list. Or, consider planting your bulbs in a “cage” fashioned with chicken wire. Also, see our article on rodent-proof bulbs.
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Buying Bulbs
We suggest you buy bulbs from reputable nursery or local garden centers versus a generic big box store. But also it’s easy to order online; there are many wonderful high-quality online nurseries including Dutch suppliers. Another advantage to ordering from a bulb specialist is picking unusual varieties or colors; there are many more choices.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/planting-fall-bulbs-spring-flowers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from geneationgenius.com 

     ​Weather update:  overcast, it seems cooler out right now at 9:00 AM with the breeze coming thru the windows.  The humidity is to come up this afternoon, and then the next 7 days it will be above normal temperatures, summer like.  First day of fall, there will be a change is what I am reading about.  Enjoy….middle of September and here we go getting things ready for that wintertime.  For me, so much to do yet.  I will work on it every day and see how it goes.  I am also canning which I love to do.  A friend grows the produce for me, I give him the plants, and then he picks them for me.  That is awesome.  Just like all of you so much to do.  Enjoy this weather, I am.  The sunsets are coming earlier and earlier so fall is here soon.  Be safe. 
Here is something I haven’t never even done, propagate from cuttings.  How about you?  Let us know what works. 
Growing New Plants from Softwood, Semi-Hardwood, and Hardwood Cuttings  by Robin Sweetser
Fall is the ideal time to take cuttings of many plants! Many of our favorite tender plants (such as coleus and geraniums) may not survive winter. Why not try taking cuttings to enjoy your plants next year?! It’s fun and quite satisfying to multiple your favorite plants—for nothing!
One of my favorite aspects of gardening is plant propagation. Whether it’s from seed or from a cutting, I love seeing a new plant emerge and grow. Taking stem cuttings is an easy way to propagate your favorite garden plants in order to enjoy again next year, fill in empty garden space, or share them with friends.
Even with a greenhouse, we don’t have enough room for all the plants we want to save and it’s even more difficult if you are trying to fit them all on a sunny windowsill. Instead of lugging in large containers and digging up entire plants, you can easily take herbaceous, softwood, or semi-hardwood cuttings of your favorites and start new plants.
Almost any garden plant that produces stems can be be propagated via stem cuttings. Perennial flowers, vines, shrubs, and even trees are all great candidates!
Tender Plants
Around September, as temperatures cool, it’s time to take care of your tender container plants such as coleus and geraniums. They are at their peak in mid-summer, but when the weather turns colder, they will be lost unless you bring them inside. One way to ensure that they last through winter is to take a few cuttings and keep them indoors until spring.
You can truly take stem cuttings from any houseplant or herbaceous plant (those with non-woody stems) any time during the growing season (spring to late fall). Many root so easily that they will even root in a glass of water. (If you try this, keep the water clean and put the glass out of direct sunlight. Once roots form, transfer to soil.)
As well as coleus and geranium, tender plants include African violet, some ivies, iresine, mints, and impatiens.
Coleus are extremely easy to propagate, rooting readily from their stems.Coleus are extremely easy to propagate, rooting readily from their stems.
Semi-hardwood Cuttings
With semi-hardwood plants (those with woody bases but soft growth at top), cuttings can also be taken in late summer to early fall. In autumn, hormone levels are high, so plants should root and grow well.
Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken from woody evergeens include arborvitae, boxwood, holly, rhododendron, and yew, as well as other woody shrubs, like rose, lilac, hydrangea, and forsythia.
Herbs such as lavender, bay, rosemary, sage, and thyme also grow well from semi-hardwood cuttings.
Many varieties of fuchsia, saliva, and penstemon won’t take severe weather so taking cuttings is a good precaution.
The new growth on this lilac shows the ripening wood at the base and soft wood at the top.The new growth on this lilac shows the ripening wood at the base and soft wood at the top. Perfect for taking a semi-hardwood cutting from!
Lilac, rose, and wiegela cuttings ready for root powder.Semi-hardwood cuttings of lilac, rose, and weigela ready for rooting powder.
Hardwood Stem Cuttings
After a good frost, you can start taking hardwood cuttings. These cuttings are taken only when the plant is fully dormant (through early spring). Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature growth produced in the last season or the season before. These cuttings are slower to grow roots, but can still be grown successfully with a bit of patience!
Hardwood cuttings can be taken from most deciduous shrubs such as forsythia, rose, viburnum, deutzia, Rose of Sharon, and weigela.
Softwood Cuttings
Then back in the spring, plants begin to grow again. Softwood stem cuttings are taken in the spring and early summer—between April and July—from the tender new growth. These cuttings tend to grow new roots the fastest.
Softwood cuttings can be taken from plants such as clematis, lilac, forsythia, weigela, hydrangea, Rose of Sharon, and spirea, to name a few.
How to Take Cuttings: Supplies
Before you start taking cuttings, take time to gather all the materials you’ll need. If you are organized, you’ll be able to prepare a lot of cuttings in a short time. You’ll need:
clean plastic pots or boxes
a bag of sterile potting soil and perlite or vermiculite
powdered rooting hormone (optional, but recommended)
a sharp knife, clippers, or razor blade
rubbing alcohol to sterilize your cutting tool
As a rooting medium, you can use a mix of potting soil (soilless mixes are best) and perlite or vermiculite to make it drain faster. I have had success using straight vermiculite as well.
How to Take Cuttings: Guidelines
Taking cuttings is easy, but the methods used for propagating softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood cuttings differ slightly. The techniques are listed below, but first, here are a few general tips to keep in mind:
Cuttings taken from the base of a plant will typically root faster than those taken from the top.
Thin cuttings root better than thick ones.
Plants grown in shade root more quickly than those grown in full sun.
How to Take Herbaceous and Softwood Cuttings (Spring to Early Summer)
Herbaceous cuttings can be taken throughout the growing season (spring to late fall), while softwood cuttings should be taken in spring or early summer. Cuttings can be taken as long as the parent plant is healthy and in active growth. This method can be used on tender and hardy perennials such as verbena, mint, and petunias, as well as shrubs such as hydrangeas and fuchsia.
Fill your containers with a potting mix and water so that the mix is moistened.
Look for new, vigorous side shoots or tip growth and prune off a 3- to 4-inch piece just below a leaf node.
Remove the lower leaves and any flowers or buds, moisten the stem in water and dip it into a little pile of rooting hormone (not directly into the jar because you could contaminate the whole container).
Make a hole in the soil with a pencil, stick your cutting into the hole, firm the soil around it, and gently water it.
Take more cuttings. Twelve plants fit nicely in a rectangular box. Always take more cuttings than you need because some are likely to fail.
Be sure to include a label with any pertinent info on it!
How to Take Semi-Hardwood Cuttings (Mid-Summer to Early Fall)
Take semi-hardwood cuttings from mid-summer to early fall. A healthy semi-hardwood cutting includes a bit of both old and new growth. This technique works well on broadleaf evergreens such as holly, boxwood, and rhododendrons; deciduous shrubs such as lilac; woody herbs such as lavender, rosemary, and thyme; and even some conifers.
Fill your containers with a potting mix and water so that the mix is moistened.
Take a cutting that is 4 to 6 inches in length.
Remove the bottom-most leaves and the growing tip. If the remaining leaves are large, cut them in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture loss.
Dip the base of the cutting into a rooting hormone and stick it into a container of potting mix.
Place the container in a plastic bag and blow in some air to puff it up before tying it shut. Put the pot in a bright spot out of direct sunlight so you don’t cook the cuttings. Open the bag weekly to add fresh air and to check the plants for mold or new growth.
It can take 4-5 weeks or up to 6 months for roots to form, so don’t get discouraged. The firmer the wood, the longer it takes to root.
Another type of semi-hardwood cutting is called a “heel cutting.” Heel cuttings are pulled off the plant rather than cut (see photo, below). They will have a piece of old bark from the original stem still attached, which often aids in rooting.
Heel cutting is made by pulling the stem away from the branch rather than cutting it off.
A heel cutting is made by pulling the stem away from the branch rather than cutting it off.
How to Take Hardwood Cuttings (Late Fall to Winter)
Take hardwood cuttings in late fall or winter, when plants are dormant. These cuttings can also be taken in early spring before new growth appears. Generally, this method works great for deciduous shrubs such as forsythia, dogwood, viburnum, willow, mock orange, yew, and privet.
Fill your containers with a potting mix and water so that the mix is moistened.
Find a healthy-looking hardwood stem or branch that you can take a 6- to 8-inch cutting from.
Make the cut just below a bud (aka, a leaf node).
Trim off any softwood growth from the top of the cutting, making an angled cut right above a bud. Having an angled cut at the top of a cutting helps to prevent rot and also allows you to identify which end should be facing up!
Dip the base in rooting hormone. Stick the cutting in a container of potting soil, leaving only the top 2 to 4 inches exposed.
If you are making a lot of cuttings, stick them 4 to 6 inches apart in a nursery bed outside and cover with floating row cover.
If using pots, put them in a protected but unheated place (like a cold frame or shed) where they get some light.
Keep the soil on the dry side during the winter and start to water more as the temperatures warm up. Move the pot outside to a shady spot after the last frost of spring. You should see some new growth by mid-spring.
Where to Keep Cuttings
Many people use a sunny windowsill as their temporary nursery, but if you wish to create lots of pots with cuttings, here’s any easy way to create a mini-greenhouse …
Place the box or pot of cuttings in a large plastic bag, blow in it to inflate it, and seal the end. Big zip-lock bags work great.
Place this in a warm spot out of direct sun: 65 to 75°F is optimum. Bottom heat helps cuttings root faster, but is not necessary.
Open the bag every few days to check for mold or wilted cuttings and to add fresh air. This helps to prevent mildew from forming in this humid atmosphere.
After a week or two, if the plants look lively, you can peel back the bag and move them into indirect light. Check for rooting by giving them a gentle tug. If they resist being pulled out, roots have begun to form.
Soon you’ll be able to move your new plants into their own pots filled with fresh potting soil. After a few weeks you can fertilize them and move them to their new indoor locations!
Cuttings in their new home. Hopefully they will root!Cuttings in their new home. Hopefully they will root!
When spring comes around and the threat of frost has passed, plant your rooted cuttings outdoors as you would a young plant. Keep an eye on them for a few weeks, watching that they get enough water and don’t get burnt up by the sun or bitten by frost
Take from https://www.almanac.com/how-propagate-plants-cuttings
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  

​All the weatherman is saying less humidity this weekend. So there fore I am thinking it is going to be humid on this Friday.  Cold front coming thru for tomorrow, so rain in the forecast.  We were to be up to 3” of rain, now the front is moving faster so we are at ½”  I am back to watering plants, but that ½’ will help so don’t have to do it this weekend.  Stay cool today. 
Question and a picture sent about cucumber plants having white spots.  So here is what I found out.  Some of you can tell right away what the problem is.  Experience I am sure. 
What Causes White Spots on Cucumber Leaves – and How to Prevent It  btGraham Pierrepoint
We’re here to help! Wild Yards is a completely free website that is 100% dedicated to helping you create a wildlife-friendly, sustainable yard. Read more
Cucumbers are some of the tastiest crops you’ll grow in your home vegetable patch – but sadly, they’re at serious risk from a few nasty pests and diseases. For example, if you find white spots on cucumber leaves, it’s important to take action.
Cucumber leaves with white spots are suffering from powdery mildew. This common ailment can spread from plant to plant, stunting growth and potentially killing some vegetables outright.
What exactly is powdery mildew?
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that typically arises from two species – Erysiphe cichoracearum and Podosphaera fuliginea. These parasitic fungi cause tiny, white spots to appear flecked across your cucumber leaves.
This fast-spreading disease doesn’t just affect leaves – it can spread to branches and stems and may even sprout across the surface of your cucumbers. It can look a little gross – it makes your cucumbers look moldy. It’s rare for the mildew to spread to fruit and vegetables outright, but if left to persist, it can take over the whole of your crop.
There are other ways to spot if your plants are infected – for example, if your cucumber leaves turn yellow, it may be powdery mildew, or you may need to adjust your watering schedule.
Where does powdery mildew come from?
Powdery mildew spores are very easy to spread and can infect both plants and soil. If prevalent, spores can even carry on the breeze and linger briefly on dead leaves or other organic matter. Normally, mildew needs a living host to survive.
This type of mildew can also spread through invasive insects. For example, the leafhopper, which feeds on cucumber plants frequently, may spread spores to your crops. Their feeding – nibbling at and drinking sap and juice from inside cucumbers – may also leave your plants lightly flecked in white.
Other pests that visit cucumber plants – which may carry mildew with them – include aphids, cucumber beetles, spider mites, and wireworms.
What causes powdery mildew to grow?
Powdery mildew thrives in very dark, humid, moist conditions. If your cucumbers are growing with very little access to sunlight, and if you don’t allow your soil to drain clearly, mildew is likely to appear. Treating your cucumbers this way can also cause further problems, such as wilting, yellowing of leaves, and even premature death. Before worrying about the threat of mildew, make sure you’re watering yor plants adequately.
Powdery mildew can also grow wildly in spots where plants and foliage grow thickly together and leave little room for air to flow. This helps to contribute to moisture and humidity. In which case, it’s best to give your cucumbers room to breathe!
Fungi can thrive in cool and warm temperatures – typically from 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, though it can also start to cluster on cucumber plants if the temperature drops below 55 degrees. Dropping below 68 degrees can also put your cucumbers at risk of diseases such as stem rot, which can kill your plants (especially if they’re already weak and spotted with mildew).
Cucumber plants are sensitive by nature and can experience stress, whether through lack of water, sunlight, or continued insect attacks. Stress and shock will lower your cucumber’s defenses, making it weaker to mildew.
Believe it or not, your watering schedule plays a large part in mildew’s growth – as it’ll thrive for as long as your cucumber’s leaves are damp. This means it’s a good idea to water your plants in the morning, rather than doing so late on and risking dew clinging to their leaves. Once it passes midday, it’s no longer wise to water your cucumbers – they’ll get more of a drink earlier in the day, too, as temperatures will be lower (and evaporation is less likely).
What does powdery mildew do to cucumbers?
Powdery mildew spreads thickly across leaves and stems to cover your cucumbers’ photosynthesis cells – they effectively shade your plants from the sun. This prevents them from creating chlorophyll, and thus they start to starve. This can cause wilting, stunted growth, and eventually the death of your plants.
Lack of photosynthesis (and, in turn, chlorophyll) can lead to quick defoliation and may result in poor growth in younger cucumbers. Leaves that succumb to powdery mildew may wither, die and drop altogether, leaving your vegetables at the mercy of full sunlight. Cucumbers themselves can burn in the sun – their leaves are like miniature solar panels, while also acting as parasols.
Does powdery mildew spread to other plants easily?
Typically, powdery mildew will affect and grow between specific plant families, with Cucurbitaceae being particularly vulnerable to the disease. This family consists of juicy, sensitive crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, and squashes.
Other highly susceptible plants and vegetables include begonias, peppers, roses, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, and parsley. The list goes on – which is why it’s prudent to restrict the spread of powdery mildew as much as possible.
Powdery mildew will spread in discarded leaves and other dead or decaying organic matter – as well as between plants in the same plot. A common mistake among gardeners is to go ahead and plant susceptible crops in the same soil as the cucumbers that were removed and destroyed for mildew! The fungi will likely still be alive in the growth medium – it’ll need thoroughly re-laying.
Some species are highly resistant to powdery mildew thanks to genetic experimentation – modern hybrids can stave off fungi without much intervention. In any case, it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Can I get rid of powdery mildew?
Powdery mildew spores are removable if the problem is caught early enough in its life cycle. It’s sometimes possible to simply treat your cucumber leaves, or you may need to remove your plants entirely to stop the spread.
Using a fungicidal treatment
Gardeners use fungicides – chemical or otherwise – to spot-treat powdery mildew as it arises. Within a day or two, white spots can start to cluster and take over leaves and stems – so it’s vital to check your cucumber plants at least daily and treat them when necessary.
Don’t choose chemical treatments if you can avoid them – as these may have adverse effects on your soil, other plants growing close by, and any helpful insects and animals in the vicinity. Some gardeners choose to break out the baking soda, mixing a tablespoon with around a gallon of water to gently spray on cucumber leaves.
Another method for treating cucumber leaves is to purchase plant oil and mix around 2.5 tablespoons to four teaspoons’ worth of baking soda with a gallon of water. It’s worth spraying leaves carefully, and not in extremely hot weather (i.e. above 85 degrees Fahrenheit).
Covering both sides of the plants’ leaves, the aim is to raise their pH and alkalinity – making conditions less desirable for fungi to continue growing. Alternatively, you may wish to use 10% milk to 90% water as a spray – this method can sometimes stave off mildew if you act quickly enough.
It’s vital to keep up treatments of your cucumber leaves daily for at least a week. If you’re using a store-bought product, always follow what the label tells you, and use gardening gloves for protection.
Use row covers
If you suspect visiting pests are helping to worsen the mildew, using row covers may be worthwhile to blanket your crops until they dissipate. This method may not work with all invasive insects, but it’s proven to help disperse leafhoppers, who can carry the disease and stress your cucumbers further by eating away at its flesh and foliage.
You’ll generally need to remove row covers when your cucumbers start to flower – and you can safely let them enjoy the sun once more. If powdery mildew continues, additional action will be necessary.
Grow cucumbers that are resistant to powdery mildew
There are several cucumber plant hybrids that are bred to resist powdery mildew, which you’ll commonly find noted with a small ‘PM’ on seed packets.
If buying from a garden center or online, look for hybrid varieties such as Hybrid 177 or Cool Breeze F1.
Decimating your crop
In some cases, powdery mildew will spread to the point where you may need to remove your crops and start again completely. You can avoid this situation with preventative care, but unfortunately, you’ll need to remove both your cucumbers and any similar plants (such as Cucurbitaceae) growing in the same soil. If in doubt, dig them up.
Carefully remove any affected plants and those growing around, and dig up any remaining soil. You’ll need to start a new growth medium from scratch, ideally with homegrown compost and rich topsoil. Well-aerated, well-draining soil as part of a layered garden bed may help prevent powdery mildew from appearing on fresh crops.
You can, hypothetically, compost any cucumber plants and/or leaves that you remove, but do so with caution. Powdery mildew won’t thrive for long on dead or dying matter, but it can take a long time to die out (even in a compost pile or bin). If you’re concerned, throw your infected crops away – particularly if you want to use your compost for other plants and crops in your garden.
How do I stop powdery mildew from growing?
Prevention of powdery mildew is relatively simple and takes much less effort than curing the condition outright  – here’s what to do.
Create lots of space
Cucumber plants generally need spacing of around four to five feet per row, with three feet between bushes also being adequate. When first sowing your cucumbers, measure around six inches between and thin or trim your seedlings further to create clearer airflow.
If your cucumber plants aren’t touching leaf to leaf, you’ll likely be protected against powdery mildew.
Choose the right spot
Full sunlight is ideal for evaporating water, dew, and other moisture that may catch on cucumber leaves. Cucumber needs its leaves to block the sun, though they’ll also need to make chlorophyll. Like all fungal diseases, powdery mildew adores growing in the dark – making bright, dry spots conducive to mildew-free growth.
Having found a spot that grants your cucumbers their minimum of six hours a day of sunlight, keep a close eye on the lowest leaves – are they damp? It’s here where powdery mildew will start to appear first, so check several times a week.
Water cucumbers properly
Consider setting up an irrigation system to water your cucumbers – as mentioned, morning watering is vital, and a drip system can automate the process, keeping your leaves as dry as possible. Ensure you water your cucumber plants at the base rather than above the leaves – to avoid unnecessary moisture.
If you wish to try irrigating your cucumbers, it’s worth trying to soak the top eight inches of their soil until it’s nice and moist. While moisture can breed mildew, providing your cukes grow in the sun, this water shouldn’t pool or puddle.
Deep watering of cucumbers on an infrequent basis (once per week is generally enough) will also help the plant’s roots to grow and dig deeper into the ground. This will help your crops stay resistant to certain stressors.
Grow companion plants
For sensitive crops such as cucumber, companion planting can help to prevent mildew, protect against pests, and to keep your vegetables growing strong and flavorsome. However, you’ll need to be careful about the companions you grow – basil and rosemary, for example, will prove highly competitive for nutrients and may stunt cucumber growth.
Alternatively, growing chamomile as a companion can help prevent the growth of certain diseases cucumber typically suffers with. Dill as a companion plant can also help prevent pests such as beetles munching away at cucumbers, potentially spreading powdery mildew.
Can I save cucumber plants with white spotted leaves?
White-spotted leaves are sadly common among cucumber plants that are stressed, thirsty, or lacking sunlight – but powdery mildew is easy to prevent and reasonably simple to cure, providing you act quickly. Cucumber succumbs to a lot of shock – which is why it’s prudent to consider companion planting, a firm watering schedule, and to position your seeds at least six inches apart.
Follow these rules, and you’ll be sure of a bountiful, tasty cucumber harvest – providing they’re growing somewhere bright, and you’re watering them once per week, it’s unlikely mildew will cause you many headaches.
Taken from https://wildyards.com/white-spots-on-cucumber-leaves/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from pinterset.co.uk

      ​      West Fork United Methodist Church had a very successful Ice Cream Social on the 6th.  Thanks to all that came, and thanks to all that worked it.  Donations will go to a local Vietnam Veterans group.  Now we are having a couple of days of warmth, but nothing like out west with temperatures in the 100’s.  Looks like rain for the weekend.  I am still working with plants in the greenhouse. Soon need to start moving some more in.  Work here with the greenhouse is never completed.  I will be getting tomatoes today to work on.  I am excited because I do love the art of canning.  I will let you know how it goes as I just got a new electric water bath canner.  Hope all of you are well, and busy with the garden produce.  Stay safe…. Now how about picking the right apples for the right cooking.  I have always wondered myself, so here it a good article on that. 
Choosing the Right Apples for Apple Pies and Other Recipes
Not all apples are ideal for cooking! In this article, we share some of best apples for baking and cooking—including the best apples for apple pies, best apples for making applesauce, best apples for apple cider, and best apples for apple butter. Hooray for apple season!
Choosing the Right Apple Variety
Ever eaten a mushy apple pie? Often, this is the result of the baker using a soft apple variety that doesn’t hold up in the oven. When you use the right kinds of apples in your recipes, your dishes can go from good to delicious!
Amy Traverso, apple expert and author of the award-winning The Apple Lover’s Cookbook, shares a couple important tips for apple pies:
For apple pies and crisps, use “firm” apples which hold their shape during cooking.
Ideally, bake a pie with more than one apple—an equal amount of 1. “firm-tart” and 2. “firm-sweet” apples for depth of flavor. (See chart below.)
The Best Apples for Baking
Below is a list of the best apples for baking and cooking. Note that some familiar apple varieties may be missing because they are best eaten fresh. If you have apple varieties in your region that aren’t listed here, please comment below and let us know what you prefer to use!
Best Apples for Pies and Crisps
Here’s a list of best apple varieties for pie and baked dessert, which has some good geographical diversity in it:
Name    Best Uses            Flavor Characteristics, Appearance
Firm-Tart                             
Arkansas Black   Pie          A favorite of many Southern cooks, with deep red skin that turns purple-black in storage. Aromatic, crisp, with a cherry-spice finish.
Calville Blanc d’Hiver         Pie, Tarts          A French apple that dates back to the 16th century, it is the classic variety used in tarte tatin.
Granny Smith              Pie                Classic “green apple” is slightly sour and a favorite apple for pie. Available in supermarkets everywhere.
Newtown Pippin              Pie          Sweet-tart flesh, crisp, greenish-yellow skin
Northern Spy     Pie          Our favorite apple variety for pie-making
Rhode Island Greening      Pie     Very tart, distinctively flavored, grass-green skin, tending toward yellow/orange
Roxbury Russet                 Pie          America’s oldest apple, it’s heavily russeted and tastes like honeyed lemonade. Flesh is dense and rather coarse. A great keeper.
Sierra Beauty Stayman Winesaps      Pie  Popular on the West Coast, Sierra Beauty is complex and tart-sweet with floral and spice flavors.
Firm-Sweet                        
Baldwin Pie          A New England favorite, this fruit is prized for both cooking and cider. Very aromatic, with spice and apricot flavors.
Ginger Gold               Pie, Muffins, Cakes  Sweet and crisp. Great for pie and light baking.
Golden Delicious              Pie          Fairly mild variety but easily found. Tastes best when paired with bolder apples.
Gravenstein             Pie   A California favorite, the Gravenstein ripens early. Sweet-tart with a hint of raspberry. Very juice and tender, but bakes well.
Honeycrisp                 Pie Crisp, with balanced sweetness and acidity. Doesn’t brown quickly when sliced.
Jazz                           Pie, Raw snacks            Exceptional taste and found in supermarkets year-round.
Jonagold                  Pie     Yellow top, red bottom. Tangy-tart-sweet combo. Cross between the Jonathan and Golden Delicious and could fill a pie on its own.
Pink Lady             Pie, Baking, Snacking      Balance of sweet and sour undertones and widely available in supermarkets any time of the year.
York                      Pie          A great all-purpose apple popular in the mid-Atlantic region. Honey and vanilla flavors dominate and the flesh is juicy and fine-grained.
Best Apples for Applesauce
Below is a list of apples which are best for sauces and fresh preparation. Softer apples tend to work best for sauces as well as baking dishes that cook quickly, like muffins. Use firmer apples (such as above) for dishes that cook 45 minutes or more.
Name    Best Uses            Flavor Characteristics, Appearance
Cortland                     Applesauce  Tender-sweet, these large purple-red apples with yellow streaks red-blushed apples are moderately juicy and fairly sweet compared to McIntosh.
Macoun                      Applesauce Striated green and red color, these tender apples have snow white flesh and a sweet tart flavor with a hint of strawberry and spice.
Empire                            Applesauce, Fruit Salad     Doesn’t brown quicky when sliced
Cox’s Orange Pippin        Applesauce        Lightly red-striped with an orange huge, this medium-sized apple has a spicy or nutty fragrance.
Davey                               Applesauce         Red with some light yellow striping and small dots, this Mac-type apple is sweet-tart, very juicy, and crunchy.
Jonathan                         Applesauce           Tart flesh, crisp, juicy, bright red on yellow skin
McIntosh                      Applesauce              Juicy, sweet, pinkish-white flesh with two-toned red and green skin. Slightly tart, and the most aromatic of all apples.
Liberty                          Applesauce              A popular apple for organic growers, it’s naturally resistant to disease and pests. Tender and sweet, great for sauces, with a wine-like flavor.
Best Apples for Cider
Name    Best Uses            Flavor Characteristics, Appearance
Baldwin                      Cider              Crimson red with coppery green skin, Baldwin’s cream-white flesh is crisp and juicy with a spicy, sweet-tart flavor that’s great for cider.
Gravenstein                 Cider          Heirloom apple with a thin skin and a juicy, sweet flavor
Esopus Spizenburg          Cider    
McIntosh                            Cider     Juicy, sweet, pinkish-white flesh with two-toned red and green skin. Slightly tart, and the most aromatic of all apples.
Cox’s Orange Pippin        Cider     Lightly red-striped with an orange huge, this medium-sized apple has a spicy or nutty fragrance that’s great for cider.
Snow Apple                     Cider      
Goldrush                           Cider     
Stayman Winesap            Cider     Very juicy, sweet-sour flavor, winey, aromatic, sturdy, red skin
Best Apples for Apple Butter 
Soft apples work best for apple butter because they cook down faster. Use any mix of apples.
Name    Best Uses            Flavor Characteristics, Appearance
Braeburn             Apple Butter     
Cortland               Apple Butter     
Fuji                     Apple Butter        
McIntosh             Apple Butter      Juicy, sweet, pinkish-white flesh, red skin
Liberty                Apple Butter
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/best-apples-baking-and-cooking
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from salisburylandscaping.ca 

        Here we go another month, this one leading into fall, and now Labor Day Weekend.  It sounds like great weather for all that are doing things this Labor Day.  Our church has an ice cream social on Tuesday, so I am working on helping getting things ready for that.  ALWAYS a good time.  Prediction for today, Friday is hot and humid, then a cold front moving in for a lovely weekend.  Stay safe, stay cool and just enjoy.  I am posting on the end of the garden to do list.  I can’t believe I am posting that, seems like we just started to garden.  Article talks about August but it applies to our September here. 
​
Your End-of-Summer Garden To-Do List  By ANGELA ENGLAND
Though you may only enjoy its bounty a few times a year, gardening is a year-round hobby, with almost every month providing a new opportunity to tend to your land and foster its success.
That means August, one of the hottest months of the year in North America, is no time to sit back and relax. While some gardeners are still near the height of the harvest season, others long for fall around this time, others are relishing in the bounty both a vegetable and flower garden can provide. Keeping up with your maintenance during this time will assure both the health of your garden in spring and a shorter maintenance list for fall.
Weed and Deadhead
Both novice and pro gardeners agree—weeds are most prolific in August1. As summer sets in, weed seeds become better established and can flourish in the hot, humid conditions that are less suited for vegetables and flowers. Staying on top of weeding—during this month especially—will deter new weeds from seeding themselves, ultimately allowing fewer of them to propagate next year. Keep your grooming on track and in a few years, the dreaded task of weeding will become noticeably more manageable.
Likewise, it's important to be consistent with your deadheading as well—doing so will help keep perennial gardens and annual pots looking their best. To deadhead your plants, pick off any old, spent flowers (most easily done by hand)t to allow healthy new growth and buds to form. Staying consistent with this task forces ever-bearing plants to channel their energy into producing new buds and flowers, and can help keep unruly plants from seeding and out-competing other varietals in your garden.
Harvest and Clear Space
Harvest is certainly the most rewarding occasion for vegetable growers, thanks to the surplus of goodness coming from your garden.  As you pick your above-ground plants, more vegetable flowers will form to be pollinated, and thinning your root vegetables allows those beside them to grow bigger, while also helping you get a jump on your food storage practices.
August can turn any landscape (edible or not) into a mess of falling, brown plants trying for one last round of blossoms. By removing the dying portions as the month progresses, you'll create less garden cleanup work later in the fall. And who knows, if cooler temperatures set in early, your healthy green plants may yield one more bonus round of flowers.
If whole plants need to be removed, make sure to fill in any empty spaces left behind. You can use mulch, layer gardening techniques, cover crops, or even fall plantings—just don’t leave the ground bare, which can act as an invitation to both weeds and pests.
Save What You Can
Utilize every last bit of your bounty by taking the time now to save what you can from your garden. Capitalize on successful plants by saving their seeds to sow next season, and pick any large batches of vegetables or fruits to create things like jams and canned goods. You can also harvest any leftover herbs for drying and use them in your cooking throughout the rest of the year.
Prepare Mulch and Compost
If you haven’t already created one, a DIY compost pile is a simple weekend effort that will yield excellent returns. Add organic materials like rotted vegetables, plant scraps, and leaves to create a mulch pile that can eventually become compost. By the time the last of the fall harvest is gone from your garden, your compost and mulch will be ready to spread, enhancing the growing spaces ahead of next year's planting season.
Maintain Shrubs and Trees
If you have any shrubs, trees, or other perennials in your garden or landscape, now is the time to give them a little TLC. Don’t plan on deadheading or fertilizing anything that won’t make it through the cold months ahead—now is not the time to encourage new growth. Instead, once the blooms are through, prune the plants back as needed. For shrubs and trees that are winter-hardy or still going strong, provide plenty of frequent deep waterings, especially in hot climates. The August sun will evaporate any light watering efforts, leaving little moisture to benefit the plant.
Most of all enjoy all of your hard work in your gardens. 
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/end-of-summer-to-do-list-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from thegardeningcook.com 

What a 10 out of 10 day.  Blue, clear sky, little breeze and the temperature is at 81 degrees with low humidity.  I am working outside replanting some succulents.  Favorite thing to do, PLANT…ENJOY…
I have had this question asked about their tomatoes.  Have to see what is happening in your garden for them not to produce.  Hopefully all of you are having good production of tomatoes.  IT IS time. 
Why Isn't My Tomato Plant Producing Fruit?
Lots of Flowers, But Not Enough Fruit on Tomato Plants  by The Editors
Are you seeing lots of flowers on your tomatoes but not enough red fruit? From poor pollination to extreme heat, there are many reasons why a lack of fruit happens. Thankfully, most are addressable! Read our article (with video demo) to find out how to get more tomatoes and reap the fruit of your labors.
Lack of Pollination
While other fruiting vegetables like squash produce separate male and female flowers, tomatoes have flowers with both male and female parts. This means they’re self-fertile and can pollinate themselves. But while that’s technically the case, you’ll get much better fruit set if pollinating insects – and especially bumblebees – enter the mix.
Bumblebees “buzz pollinate”: Their wings flap up and down at a frequency that creates their famous low, audible buzz–and it’s this buzz that produces a vibration, so that when they visit a flower the pollen is shaken free from the male part to drift down onto the waiting female stigma. We want more bumblebees, so make sure they can get at the flowers!
*If you’re growing under cover, open up greenhouse or tunnel vents, windows and doors. And encourage more pollinators into the area by planting nectar-rich flowers among your tomatoes!)
You can also improve fruit set by hand pollinating. Now you could go from flower to flower with a small artist’s paint brush like this – and that would work, but a far more practical solution to dislodge the pollen to fertilize the female parts of the flower is to simply twang or tap on plant supports. By vibrating the flowers, you are mimicking the actions of a bumblebee to greatly enhanced pollination success!
Extreme Heat
Many gardeners struggle with extreme summer heat–and so can our tomatoes. When it gets too hot pollen becomes sterile, especially if nighttime temperatures fail to drop below about 77 Fahrenheit or 25 Celsius.
All you can really do is hold out for temperatures to fall away again. If your plants are under cover help them keep their cool by leaving windows, doors and vents wide open and perhaps adding blinds, cloth or greenhouse shading paint to filter out some of the sunshine.
Be sure to grow varieties suited to your climate too. If it’s particularly hot where you garden, seek out a warm-climate tomato variety that can better withstand your sultry summer.
High/Low Humidity
If getting just the right temperature wasn’t enough to contend with, sometimes it can be a bit too humid… or dry for our tomatoes! Those close, uncomfortable conditions that come with high humidity can make pollen sticky, so that it clumps together and fails to drop onto the female stigma. Very dry conditions have the opposite effect–the flowers just aren’t moist enough for the pollen to properly stick, so it simply rolls off.
There isn’t much you can do about high levels of humidity other than ensure adequate ventilation and plenty of space between plants to help along airflow.
Pruning off some of the lower leaves can help air to circulate better too.
If bone dry air is your issue, however, be sure to keep plants properly watered and the humidity around your plants should remain more stable as excess moisture evaporates. Ensuring enough water will also give plants the resources required to fully swell their fruits, while reducing the risk of them simply dropping off.
If you’re growing under cover, splashing water onto paving– known as ‘damping down’–will also help increase humidity.
Not Enough Light
If your tomato plants have lots of lush foliage but few flowers then consider light levels. Tomatoes love a sunny spot and will only do their thing if they receive a minimum of six hours direct sunshine a day. Dull weather presents a temporary challenge, but if you’ve planted them in a less-than-sunny position you may be best moving your plants to somewhere sunnier, because more sunlight means more energy to grow those fruits.
Incorrect Nutrition
Finally, check what you’re feeding your tomatoes. Once the first flowers appear you need to be applying some sort of organic fertilizer that has a good level of both potassium and trace elements like magnesium. This will help to encourage exactly what we’re after: more flowers and better fruit set.
Use a product such as a liquid tomato feed or seaweed concentrate. This will help to promote healthier plants, reduce the risk of blossom end rot, and will up the final nutritional value of the fruits themselves. Most feeds are applied about once every two weeks by measuring out and diluting the concentrate according to the packet instructions, then watering it on at the base of the plants.
And don’t forget to aim for exemplary soil health anyhow, by incorporating plenty of well-rotted organic matter into your soil at least once a year. This will build up a thriving community of soil life, which in turn will help to support all your plants, including those lovely tomatoes!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/why-isnt-my-tomato-plant-producing-fruit
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

images from Marianne Folkerts 

            Wednesday all ready isn’t it?  Days, hours, weeks just go by so quickly.  ALWAYS something to do, and that is what makes the time goes so quickly.  I did one of my favorite things to do with a garden today.  I cut some zinnias to bring into the house for a bouquet.  How about you do you bring in flowers for a bouquet on your table? 

Here is another easy flower to grow with lots of benefits especially the bees like them.  I know I am posting plants that I should be letting you know in the spring to plant.  Like sunflowers, and like winter hardy mums and asters.  I will try to do that next spring.  Help me to remember!!!!  Enjoy the last days of summer as fall is around the corner.  School has started.  Everyone enjoy school, work hard and thanks to all the teachers, staff and administrators that work with the kids.  Important job you do.  Stay safe.
​
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Sunflowers  by Catherine Boeckmann
With bright blooms that go all summer, sunflowers are heat-tolerant, resistant to pests, and attractive to pollinators and birds. They make beautiful cut flowers, and their seeds (and oil) are a source of food for birds and people! See our Sunflower Guide for information on everything from planting to growing to harvesting.
About Sunflowers
The sunflower (Helianthus annuus) is an annual plant with a large daisy-like flower face. Its scientific name comes from the Greek words helios (“sun”) and anthos (“flower”). The flowers come in many colors (yellow, red, orange, maroon, brown), but they are commonly bright yellow with brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds.
Sunflowers are heliotropic, which means that they turn their flowers to follow the movement of the Sun across the sky east to west, and then returns at night to face the east, ready again for the morning sun. Heliotropism happens during the earlier stages before the flower grows heavy with seeds.
There are tons of varieties of sunflowers available today, so there’s bound to be one that fits your garden. Choose between those with branching stems or single stems, those that produce ample pollen for pollinators or are pollen-free (best for bouquets), those that stay small or tower above the rest of the garden, or those that produce edible seeds!  Learn more about why you should start growing these happy flowers in your garden.
–Robert Kelley Weeks (1840–76)
How Long Do Sunflowers Take to Bloom?
A fairly fast-growing flower for their size, most sunflower varieties mature in only 80 to 95 days. The largest sunflower varieties grow to over 16 feet in height, while smaller varieties have been developed for small spaces and containers and rarely grow larger than a foot tall! The flower heads can reach over 1 inch in diameter within the large seeded varieties.
PLANTING
First and foremost, find a sunny spot! Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sunlight (6 to 8 hours per day); they require long, warm summers to flower well.
Choose a location with well-draining soil. The planting spot shouldn’t pool with water after it rains. Otherwise, sunflowers aren’t too picky about soil, but for the best results, it shouldn’t be too compacted. They have long tap roots that need to stretch out; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across.They’re not too fussy when it comes to soil pH either. Sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline soil (pH 6.0 to 7.5).
Sunflowers are heavy feeders, however, so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil.
If possible, plant sunflowers in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building. Larger varieties may become top-heavy and a strong wind can be devastating.
Before choosing a planting site, decide whether or not you want to grow a sunflower tower—a fun project for kids!
When to Plant Sunflowers
It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the garden (or outdoor containers) after the danger of spring frost has passed anytime after soils have warmed to at least 50°F (10°C).
In the northern half of the U.S. and in Canada, this will fall between April and mid-June. In the South, this will probably occur in mid-March or early April.
Sunflowers dislike having their roots disturbed, which is why we recommend direct-sowing instead of transplanting.
Planting Sunflower Seeds
Sunflowers should be planted 1 to 1½ inches deep and about 6 inches apart after the soil has thoroughly warmed. If you wish, you can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall.
Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)
A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind.
Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms.
If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to keep birds away from your garden.
GROWING
While the plant is small, water around the roots, about 3 to 4 inches from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem.
Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water.
Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.
Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Everyone is familiar with those huge sunflowers that grow on towering eight-foot-tall stalks. But did you know that some varieties top off at a modest 15 inches? Sunflowers are a diverse bunch!
The towering ‘Mammoth’ variety is the traditional giant sunflower, sometimes growing to more than 12 feet tall. Its seeds are excellent for snacks and for feeding the birds, too.
‘Autumn Beauty’: One of the most spectacular cultivars, the ‘Autumn Beauty’ has many 6-inch flowers in shades of yellow, bronze, and mahogany on branching stems up to 7 feet tall.
‘Sunrich Gold’: A great flower for bouquets and arrangements, this sunflower grows to be about 5 feet tall and produces a single 4- to 6-inch flower. The big, no-mess, pollenless flowers have rich, golden-yellow rays and green-yellow centers.
‘Teddy Bear’: Just 2 to 3 feet tall, this small sunflower is perfect for small gardens and containers. The fluffy, deep-gold, 5-inch blossoms last for days in a vase.
HARVESTING
Cutting Sunflowers for Bouquets
For indoor bouquets, cut the main stem just before its flower bud has a chance to open to encourage side blooms.
Cut stems early in the morning. Harvesting flowers during middle of the day may lead to flower wilting.
Handle sunflowers gently. The flowers should last at least a week in water at room temperature.
Arrange sunflowers in tall containers that provide good support for their heavy heads, and change the water every day to keep them fresh.
Harvesting Sunflower Seeds
At the end of the season, harvest sunflower seeds for a tasty snack and or to replant or to feed the birds in the winter! Read all about harvesting sunflowers here.
Let the flower dry on or off the stem until the back of the head turns brown, the foliage turns yellow, the petals die down, and the seeds look plump and somewhat loose.
With sharp scissors or pruners, cut the head off the plant (about 6 inches below the flower head). Place in a container to catch loose seeds.
Lie the sunflower head on a flat, clean surface and grab a bowl to hold the seeds.
To remove the seeds, simply rub your hand over the seeded area and pull them off the plant or you can use a fork. Another way to remove them is to rub the head of the sunflower across an old washboard or something similar. Just grip the head and rub it across the board as if you were washing clothes.
If you are going to harvest the seeds for roasting, you can cover the flowers with a light fabric (such as cheesecloth) and a rubber band to protect the heads from the birds.
Alternatively, you can cut the flower head early and hang the heads upside down until the seeds are dry; hang indoors or in a place that’s safe from birds and mice.
Rinse sunflower seeds before laying out to dry for several hours or overnight.
If you’re saving seeds to replant, store them in an airtight container in a cool, dry place until you are ready to plant.
WIT AND WISDOM
Some people call sunflowers the “fourth sister,” in reference to the Three Sisters: corn, beans, and squash.
Some cultures see sunflowers as a symbol of courage.
Sunflowers were not only used for cooking by Native Americans, but also for healing (the oil was used to cure skin ailments) and making clothing (yellow dye was made from the flower petals and black or blue dye from the seeds).
Need a bird feeder? Save whole, dry sunflower heads and set them out in winter. Birds will gladly pick at the delicious seeds!
Save thick sunflower stems and dry them for winter kindling.
An anonymous buyer paid over $39 million in 1987 for Vincent van Gogh’s Sunflowers.
The tallest sunflower ever recorded was grown in Germany in 2014. It measured in at a stunning 30 feet and 1 inch tall!
Kansas is “The Sunflower State.”
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds and squirrels will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece.
If you have deer, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier. Curious deer may bite the heads off of young sunflowers.
Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants.
Downy mildew, rust, and powdery mildew can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide.
COOKING NOTES
Just one ounce of sunflower seeds contains about 6 grams of protein and 14 grams of oils. The fats are almost entirely unsaturated with 9g of polyunsaturated and 3g of monounsaturated fats per ounce (NSA). The oil is high in linoleic acid and is a good source of vitamin E.
Some varieties produce small black seeds that are used in cooking oil, margarine, cosmetics, and animal feed; they are the best sunflower seeds for attracting the greatest variety of songbirds.
The bigger, striped seeds are grown for snacking and as an ingredient in bread and health foods. They, too, are used for feeding birds, especially larger species, such as jays and mourning doves.
How to Roast Sunflower Seeds
Re-soak seeds overnight in salted water. Run through a strainer and dry on a layer of paper towels.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes at 325 degrees on a baking sheet. Seeds should be spread out in a single layer.  Stir frequently during the baking and remove seeds when they look slightly browned. Don’t burn!
That’s it!  You can all some olive oil, salt, spices to your roasted seeds if you wish.
Or, you can also make suet cakes for the winter birds! See how to make suet.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/sunflowers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from San Antoniaexpress 

      Monday Aug 22nd.  This is the week most Iowa Schools will start.  Teachers are back, kids start this week.  Iowa State Fair is over with, now school.  I just can’t believe it.  Summer is over with, and I thought I just started planting for the spring.  Now I need to get ready for fall, and then the wintertime.   I don’t have any time to plant a garden in the spring, so I am going to try these vegetables for the fall time.  Looking at the calendar it is time to plant, so add that to my list for this week.   See how they grow.  All I can say, I love planting…even in the fall.  Hope all of you are safe.  Good luck with going back to school.  Do any of you plant in the fall vegetables? 
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Quick-growing vegetables that are good for container gardening

It’s not too late to plant a few pots! Late summer provides plenty of time to grow in containers, which are perfect for small gardens. Find out which vegetables are best for container gardening during the summer and fall!
There’s all sorts of tasty produce many gardeners can still sow now—even this late in the season. Some vegetables are far more flavorful and successful in fall than spring, such as spinach which loves cold weather.
You can’t go wrong with leafy salads which will grow into fall. The will be far less likely to bolt in late summer and fall months. Also, you can plant beets and many roots now for for a late fall and early winter harvest. With beets, the greens are very tasty, too, similar to spinach!
There are some vegetables with are cold-hardy and don’t mind frost, such as kale.
Best Vegetables for Container Gardening
Here are a full list of quick-growing vegetables. Just go to the garden store, look at some seed packets, and back out the number of weeks from your first fall frost date, plus a few weeks for harvesting! Many of these vegetables need 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost. Look for faster-producing varieties as well as dwarf varieties which are perfect for containers.
Spinach
Collards
Bush Beans—Dwarf borlotti beans are a fave!
Radishes
Daikon (type of radish)
Beets/beetroot
Turnips
Carrots
Spring onions—plant from onions sets
Pea shoots
Lettuce
Endive
Arugula/rocket
Mustards
Cilantro/coriander
Swiss chard
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/best-vegetables-containers-late-summer-and-fall
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365