​    Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
       So yesterday was an interesting day.  We had a storm go thru around 10:00 AM and it was a strong cold front against the warm front.  So we had wind, rain and more wind. I sat in our booth area and a couple of times wonder why I decided to do that.  I made sure that the things on the tables were staying put.  The tent stayed in place and just had a few pots of plants on the ground. BUT the popcorn people were watching what I was doing.  EMT's were watching and the church ladies were making sure I was ok.  So no worries I was in good hands.  We had a couple of more rain showers so the crowd was really slow during the day.  Tonight is was a nice evening so the fair goers came out.  I worked on getting things organized, deadheaded and rearranged.  So this was good. 
      Today there will be lots of judging of livestock, free shows, free beef burgers and Grandpa's Farm is to have their demonstration start with old time farming.  There is a whole page of things going on, so it should be a busy day at the Franklin Co Fair. 
 
Gardening advice from the Men's Garden club 1975
Epsom salts can help correct a magnesium deficiency in the soil, which is one of several reasons that can cause tomato blooms to drop.  Buy the course type found at drug stores.  Use about a  handful around plants, scratch not the surface.  Water after application. Some gardeners us Epsom salt in planting holes for tomatoes, peppers an eggplants, others mix a teaspoon with about a pint or so of Lukewarm water and spry it on foliage of pepper and other plants.  
 
Peas in a pillow case.  Shell peas fresh from the garden no blanching, cooking and place loose in a pillow case closed with a twister.  Plop pillowcase in the freezer. Pease freeze individually since they've dry.  When you're ready for some just dip in the pillow case with a measuring cup.  Use different colored pillow cases to separate varieties.  Harvest too punky for a pillow case.  Substitute a plastic bag.
 
In closing about green thumb, you can bet that if you have a green thumb you have a busy thumb as well as a callused palms. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

     ​      Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
Yesterday was set up day and we are ready at Becky's Greenhouse now at the Franklin Co Fair.  LOTS of color, lots of variety and all to help with your gardening needs.  Here are the pictures of set up. I take what I could this year to decorate the fair grounds.  I so enjoy seeing them around the fair.  I have been doing this for 20 years. 
 
Larry is involved with the Grandpa's farm at the fair.  They had their annual tractor ride.   For the day it was a good one for the tractor ride, and all had a good time.  If you see Larry ask him about the break down.  Here is a picture of one of the steam engines, that will be used in the  demonstrations but they  don't start till Thursday morning at 9:00 AM. 
 
With the help of Wanda and Pam we got the booth area organized and up.  Lots of things to do in there and look at.  The carnival games and the Gardening You program will be happening when I get that finished up.  It looks like Mason City will get rain this afternoon and tonight, so see if it gets to Hampton which is south of Mason City.  Looks tonight will be a massive rain storm.  Up to 1-2" of rain so see what happens.  Just be safe, and the fair will go on. 
 
Hints from the Men's Garden Club of America  1975 
Because cucumbers are heaviest feeders, you'll increase production if you give the cucumber its only compost pile in the center.  Fill with grass clippings, mature etc as compost decomposes it feeds the close planted cucumbers
 
Give cucumbers plenty of water during the growing season they're 96% water, keep mulched to retain moisture . Sink Large coffee or shortening can with nail holes punched in bottom at the time of planting for easy watering.
 
Pick regularly to keep plants producing.  IF you over look a giant that's too big for salad or pickling peel it, slice in 1/2" slices, dip into eggplant type batter and fry.  DELIICIOUS.
 
Spotted and striped cucumber beetles can cause bacterial wilt overnight and completely destroy the crop.  Try covering young cucumber plants with hot caps or cheese cloth netting and plant radishes, onions and French marigold around plants.
 
So take time in the garden, work in the morning or later in the evening to keep cool.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

     Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
So off to the fair.  Today is the tractor ride that Grandpa's farm puts on, 4-Hers will be bringing in their projects to be judged.  Vendors will be setting up.  AND the Franklin Co Fair parade will start at 5:00.   After the parade then the fair will begin.  This year there will be a band in the beer tent area of the grandstand, plus the food vendors will be open.  
 
Wednesday morning will be the start of a full day of fair. 
 
We have the booth area for us working on setting it up.  We have perennials, we have annuals and they are looking awesome and full of color.  Tomatoes in container pots that are ready to ripen. Succulents and more succulents.  Air plants and carnivorous plants.  Fairy garden stuff.  If you want to try growing vegetables for the fall we have broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, peppers, cauliflower, malabar spinach. We have a sampling of the bushes we carry here at the greenhouse and all of them are for sale.  If you want something we go home every night and I could bring it back the next day.  
 
I will be having 2 activities for the fair goers to do.  I will talk about gardening hints for Gardening and YOU.  You will receive a gift.  You can play a couple of carnival games for more prizes and fun to have at Becky's Greenhouse.
 
Just stop in and say you read my blog or you listen to my radio show. That will so tickle me.  It will be hot, humid but there are buildings on the fairgrounds that has A/C so you can go into them to cool off.  Take you time, drink plenty of water and come to the fair and ENJOY.
 
      This week I will give you suggestions that I I have taken from the Men's Garden Clubs of America complied in 1976, 
 
Cucumber hints don't despair if the first blossoms don't set fruit, cucumbers develop only from female flowers and the first 10- 20 plug flowers are male.  Cucumbers are space grabbers, so try growing cucumber vines up chicken wire, posts or trellises.  Best bet a cucumber tree, plant seeds an inch deep every 6-8 inches around 3-4 foot diameter  of 5' high reinforcing wire with 6" mesh, plenty big enough to pick through, don't substitute small mesh wire for many cucumbers will be trapped inside.  Might have to remember this for next year.  I am sure some of you are having cucumbers all ready. ENJOY....
 
  See you at the Franklin Co Fair, Hampton Iowa a Blue Ribbon Fair... Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from  nelsonsherbs.word

     ​Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.  I need some of these herbs to calm my anxiety as we have been getting ready for the fair the last few weeks, and today moved some of the stuff down. 
 
Herbs and natural remedies can help calm anxiety and stress. Here’s a list of ways to relieve anxiety naturally.
 
First, attempt to calm thyself. If gardening or another relaxing activity doesn’t calm your nerves and make you sleep well, you’ll have to try some of these other tips involving herbs for anxiety and anxiety remedies. If gardening does help, you can grow some of these herbs (try our Herb Growing Guide) so that you can beat your anxiety in two ways.
 
Insomnia can often be caused by stress or anxiety, or insomnia can lead to anxiety. For this reason, we include some natural remedies for insomnia here as well. If these don’t help, try these tips for insomnia and sleep deprivation.
 
Herbal Teas
•Teas of chamomile, basil, marjoram, sage, or mint help ease stress. Use about 1 ounce fresh herbs (half of that if dried) for every 2 to 3 cups water.
•A tea of elderberry flowers is considered relaxing to the nerves and is sleep-inducing, too. (Caution! Avoid if pregnant.)
•For insomnia, drink bee balm. It acts as a mild sedative, calming the nerves and aiding sleep. Take an infusion of 2 teaspoons chopped leaves in 1 cup boiling water.
•Drink rosemary tea to alleviate melancholy or depression.
•Native American tea ingredients for insomnia included lady’s slipper (decocted), yarrow, mullein, hops, and purslane (decocted).
•Valerian tea (or capsules) is a natural sleep aide. In infusions, 1 ounce of the roots in 1 pint boiling water is a common recipe, consumed by wineglass as needed. (Caution: Too high a dose may lead to negative side effects!)
 
Home Remedies for Anxiety: Food
•First, do not eat your final meal late in the evening, and keep the meal light.
•Eating lettuce with your dinner is supposed to be calming, helping you to sleep and have pleasant dreams. Some say you should not have vinegar with your lettuce.
•Mandarin oranges are soporifics, so consider adding them to your evening meal to help insomnia.
•Native Americans reportedly ate raw onions to induce sleep. (They also used a variety of herbal syrups and poultices, but they’re a bit too complicated for most of us today.)
•Trying to remain relaxed but alert? Some studies suggest that the smell of apples, apple cider vinegar, or spiced apples have this effect. The right smell can make all the difference.
•Adding some calm-inducing foods to your diet can also be helpful. Try this collection of herb recipes to see if you can incorporate beneficial herbs into your meals.
 
Natural Anxiety Relief: Massages and Rubs
•Massage your temples with lavender oil. See more about the benefits of lovely lavender for the health and home.
 
lavender-oil-anxiety-relief.jpg
•A warm bath with a couple of drops of chamomile oil aides sleeping. Add a splash of lavender oil for a relaxing aroma.
•For a relaxing body rub, soak equal parts finely chopped dandelions, burdock (roots and/or aerial parts), yellow dock, and lobelia in a mason jar of vodka for two weeks. Apply externally (and avoid the temptation to drink the solution).
 
How to Relieve Anxiety at Bedtime
•Strew lavender in the linen closet to scent your bed sheets with this mildly narcotic herb.
•Try putting a few drops of lavender oil in or right under your nose—gently, with a cotton swab (Q-tip).
•Sprinkle infusions of dill on your pillowcases and quickly iron them dry or fluff them in a clothes dryer.
•Dill will also lull cranky babies to sleep. Add dill infusion to the bath, sprinkle on a baby’s blanket, or use as a hair rinse. (We all know babies can cause stress—if they can sleep, maybe you can sleep, too!)
•Sage is considered a “ghost medicine,” used to prevent stressful nightmares. Strew it on the floor or in the bed.
•Keep in mind: Not every fragrant herb is suitable for a good night’s sleep. Some can have the reverse effect. You may wish to consult an herbalist.
 
A good laugh and a long sleep are the best cures in the doctor’s book.
–Irish proverb
taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/natural-remedies-anxiety-and-stress
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture of clipart.panda.com

     ​Everyone can help Somebody
1 Thessalonians 5:15  See that none of you repays another with evil for evil, but always aim to show kindness and seek to do good to one another and to everybody.
 
Wishing for something does not produce the results we desire.  Whatever God leads you to do, aggressively pursue what needs to be done to achieve those results.
 
I once heard a story about four people named Everybody, Somebody, Anybody and Nobody.  There was a n important job to be done and Everybody was sure Somebody would do it.  Anybody could have done it, but Nobody did.  Somebody got angry about that because it was Everybody's job.  Every body thought Anybody could do it, but Not Nobody realized that Everybody wouldn't do it.  In the end, Every body blamed Somebody when Nobody did what Any body could have done. 
 
The moral of the story is simple If you see that something needs to be done and you have the ability to do it, be thankful for the opportunity God has given you and go by the change that everyone else is waiting for it.
 
Lord I am so thankful for the strengths and gifts You have given me.  Show me what You want me to do and help me to after it with all my heart.  With Your help, I know that I can make a difference.  In your name we pray AMEN
taken from The Power of Being Thankful by Joyce Meyer
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckamll@netins.net

picture from baileysbuddyblogspot.com

      ​     I think you will be surprised at some of these plants that bees like.  I knew about butterflies but it makes sense that bees would like them also. 
 
Bees are essential to a garden. Without their help in pollinating plants, there would be few flowers or vegetables. There are many things we can do to make our gardens more attractive to bees. One of the simplest is to grow plants that are rich in nectar and pollen. Not all plants provide these two basic needs. Many modern hybrids are sterile and don't offer any sustenance to bees. That doesn't mean you can't have a beautiful garden and still encourage bees to visit it. The following plants are both lovely and offer a food source for bees.
 
Anise Hyssop (Agastache Foeniculum)
 Not only is anise hyssop rich in nectar, but it also blooms for weeks and keeps several species of bees busy feeding. The honey from bees that forage on anise hyssop is very sweet.
 
Aster (Aster)
 Asters - fall Blooming Flowers
  Stick with native asters, like Michaelmas, or New England, daisies. Since they bloom late in the season, they help bees stock up on energy, before winter.
 
You will need to resist harvesting and allow some of your basil plants to flower. If you do, stand back; they will be covered with hungry, happy bees.
 
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
 These garden staples are part of the aster family. There are many good species of Rudbeckia, in a variety of heights. Their yellow color will help attract bees to your garden.
 
California Lilac (Ceanothus)
  Ceanothus is a genus with over 50 species, most of which are native to North America. The blue varieties in particular, like the California lilac, are magnets for all types of bees, including honeybees.
 
Clover (Trifolium)
 Bee pollinating on white clover
  Both white and red clover are excellent flowers for bees. Scatter seed in your lawn and allow them to forage. The clover will do double duty, providing your lawn with a source of nitrogen.
 
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster) 
Cotoneaster is a favorite of native bumblebees. If you can plant more than one variety, there will be flowers for them to visit all season.
 
Red currant plant
  Currents and their cousin, gooseberries, are early bloomers and provide a food source before a lot of other flowers are open. They appeal to a wide variety of bees. Gooseberries are great for smaller bees and are also popular with hummingbirds.
 
Elderberry (Sambucus)
Look for the less cultivated varieties of Elderberry. Many of the more ornamental hybrids on the market now, are not good food sources for bees. Bumblebees will seek out the wilder varieties.
 
English Lavender (Lavandula)
 Purple lavender flowers
  Lavender flowers are rich in nectar and bloom in mid-summer when bees are most active. The honey from bees who feed on lavender has a wonderful floral flavor.
 
Globe thistle flowers
  Although its common name suggests a thistle, Echinops is actually in the aster family. Its purple-blue color calls out to many species of bees and butterflies, too.
 
Goldenrod is yet another member of the bee-friendly aster family. These plants are some of the last bloomers of the season and provide much-needed food, before the onset of winter.
 
Joe-Pye-Weed (Eupatorium)
  This tall, eastern North American native is yet another late-blooming member of the aster family. Joe-pye weed is very easy to grow, in full sun or partial shade.
 
Lupine (Lupinus)
 The white spot in the center of the flowers, on the reflexed banner petal, changes to purple after it is pollinated, telling hungry bumblebees not to waste precious time there.
 
Many herbs are attractive to bees if you allow them to flower. Oregano is a favorite with honeybees. They will cover the plant and make it impossible to harvest from it, but they'll move on soon enough when the flowers fade.
 
Full of nectar and pollen, native penstemon plants are tubular flowers that several types of bees are happy to squeeze into and feast on. The lines on their petals act as "nectar guides", so the bees waste no time finding dinner.
 
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea)
Honeybees flock to coneflowers. It's not uncommon to see more than one bee foraging on a single flower. They provide both nectar and pollen and bloom throughout most of the season and well into fall.
 
Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub. When it blooms in early spring, the blue flowers call bees from far and wide. You will have to wait, to harvest from your rosemary bush, but rosemary honey is a treat worth waiting for.
 
Sage (Salvia)
Both culinary sage and many of the ornamental salvias are popular foraging plants for bees. Since the flower stalks bloom from the bottom of the stalk upwards, they are worth repeat visits.
 
As with clover, Phacelia is most often grown as a cover crop. However, the beautiful blue flowers are magnets for many types of bees. Find a space outside of your garden, to grow some.
 
Stonecrop (Sedum)
 It doesn't matter what type of sedum you plant, whether the short ground covers or the tall, garden plants if you plant them, bees and butterflies will come.
 
Both the perennial and annual varieties of sunflowers rely on bees for their pollination. The center disk is dense with individual flowers that can keep a bee busy for quite a while until it is covered in pollen.
 
 Wallflower (Erysimum) 
Wallflowers start blooming extremely early in the season, waiting for bees to arrive. The variety 'Bowles’s Mauve' is particularly attractive to all kinds of bees.
 
Wild buckwheat (Eriogonum)
The buckwheats are native to the west coast of North America and a handful of them are suitable for the landscape. If you prefer not to plant them in your garden, at least let them be when you find them along the road.
 
These summer stalwarts are intense bloomers and bees will make many repeat visits. Zinnias are popular flowers for vegetable gardens, where they lure bees to visit and pollinate vegetables with less showy flowers, like tomatoes and beans.
taken from  https://www.thespruce.com/best-plants-to-attract-bees-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
Cilantro (Coriander) Plant Profile
Cilantro is a delicious herb to eat but a fickle plant to grow. Also known as coriander or Chinese parsley, cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) can be grown outside in a garden, but it also does well when grown in containers. No matter which way you grow it, though, once it sprouts, the race is on to harvest leaves before the plant flowers and the flavor profile changes. Expect your individual cilantro plant to live only for a few months before it flowers.
 
■ Botanical Name: Coriandrum sativum
■ Common Name: Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
■ Plant Type: Annual herb
■ Mature Size: 20 inches tall
■ Sun Exposure: Part sun, indirect sun
■ Soil Type: Loamy
■ Soil pH: 6.5 to 7.5
■ Bloom Time: Spring
■ Flower Color: White, pale pink
■ Hardiness Zones: 3 to 11
■ Native Area: Southern Europe, Northern Africa, Southwestern Asia
 
How to Grow Cilantro 
Cilantro an annual herb and does not easily root from cuttings, but it readily produces seeds and self-seeds. Therefore, it's best to grow cilantro from seeds rather than transplanting it. If you allow your plant to mature, you can harvest the seeds for next season. Because it's a short-lived plant, if you want a steady supply of cilantro, sow seeds every few weeks to keep a fresh supply of young plants.
 
 Light 
Cilantro likes bright indirect light but dislikes intense, direct sunlight. The best option for container gardens is morning sun in an east-facing window or a very bright sill that doesn't get too much direct sun.
 
Soil 
Cilantro does best in airy, light, fast-draining soil with plenty of perlite or sharp sand mixed in to increase drainage. If the cilantro is in a garden, add mulch around the plants as soon as they've grown enough to be visible. In a container, use a premium potting mix rather than a garden soil, which is too heavy.
 
Plant the cilantro seeds between 12 and 18 inches apart in the fall in zones 8 and higher or in the spring about a month before the last frost in the lower zones.
 
Water 
Keep the soil regularly moist, but not soaked. Good drainage is essential, as cilantro has deep roots. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week.
 
 Temperature and Humidity 
Cilantro bolts easily, especially in warm weather. Keep your plants around 70 degrees F to you'll extend the ​harvest time. Once cilantro bolts, the flavor changes. Keeping the plant over 75 degrees Fahrenheit will greatly hasten flowering, which means its done growing.
 
 
 Fertilizer 
Use liquid fertilizer, or supplement the soil with controlled-release pellets. For organic cilantro, use organic fertilizer or fortify soil with compost. Feed the herb once a month.
 
 Potting and Repotting 
Cilantro is an annual that grows with a deep taproot. As a result, it dislikes repotting and will often bolt at the slightest provocation. It's best to repot your garden-center cilantro only once after bringing it home, then keep the plant in that container for the rest of its life.
 
Seed-grown cilantro can transition from your seed-starting pot to its permanent home pot. Because cilantro is an annual, mature plants should never need repotting. A fully mature flowering cilantro plant can hit 24 inches tall, including flower stalks.
 
 Varieties of Cilantro 
■ Calypso: Full plants that are slowest to bolt
■ Cruiser: Large leaves and full stems with an upright plant habit
■ Leisure: Standard type of cilantro that attracts beneficial insects
■ Santa: Slow-bolting plant with bushy leaves
 
 Pruning Cilantro 
As the plant grows, pinch back the cilantro about an inch to encourage fuller plants. To extend your cilantro harvest, regularly snip soft stems, rotating the plant as you harvest to encompass the whole plant.
 
 Harvesting 
From the time of sowing seed, cilantro leaves can begin to be harvested in about three to four weeks. Cilantro seeds can be harvested in about 45 days or when the plant is 3 to 4 inches tall. Cut the leaves at the bottom of the plant, if possible, and avoid harvesting more than one-third of the plant at the time. Cutting off too much can weaken the plant.
 
If you're harvesting the seeds, known as coriander, clip the seed heads and put them upside down in a paper bag. Give it a couple of days, and the husks will dry, split, and drop out the seed that's inside.
 
 Common Pests and Diseases 
Cilantro can suffer from some common diseases and pests, though both can be managed easily. Diseases that regularly affect cilantro include bacterial leaf spot, soft rot, carrot motley dwarf, damping-off, and powdery mildew. You can reduce the possibility of disease by avoiding overhead irrigation and not working with the plant while it's wet.
 
Pests to watch out for include aphids, including willow-carrot aphid, armyworm, cutworms, and root-knot nematode. If infestations are minor, prune out the pests. Otherwise, turn to additional management tactics, such as solarizing the soil to reduce nematodes or applying the appropriate insecticides to the infested areas.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/grow-cilantro-inside-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

     Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
Predict the Temperature with Cricket Chirps
 Learn to Use a Cricket as a Thermometer! By Catherine Boeckmann
Did you know that you can tell the temperature by counting the chirps of a cricket? It’s true! Here’s the formula…
 
The Cricket as a Thermometer
 
Back in 1897, a scientist named Amos Dolbear published an article “The Cricket as a Thermometer” that noted the correlation between the ambient temperature and the rate at which crickets chirp.
 
The formula expressed in that article became known as Dolbear’s Law. It’s surprisingly simple:
 
To convert cricket chirps to degrees Fahrenheit:
 Just count the number of chirps in 14 seconds, then add 40 to get the temperature.
 
The number you get will be an approximation of the outside temperature.
 
Example: 30 chirps + 40 = 70° F
 
To convert cricket chirps to degrees Celsius:
 Count the number of chirps in 25 seconds, divide by 3, then add 4 to get the temperature.
 
Example: 48 chirps /(divided by) 3 + 4 = 20° C
 
Why Do Crickets Chirp?
 
So, how and why do crickets make that chirping sound, anyway? Chirping is a cricket’s way of communicating. Male crickets use chirping to attract females, scare off other males, or warn of danger.
 
Contrary to popular belief, crickets do not use their legs to chirp! In fact, crickets produce the iconic sound by rubbing the edges of their wings together. The male cricket rubs a scraper (a sharp ridge on his wing) against a series of wrinkles, or “files”, on the other wing. The tone of the chirping depends upon the distance between the wrinkles.
 
There are several reasons why crickets chirp. They may be:
•Calling to attract a female with a a loud and monotonous sound
•Courting a nearby female with a quick, softer chirp
•Behaving aggressively during the encounter of two males
•Sounding a danger alert when sensing trouble
 
Crickets are part of the family Orthoptera (grasshoppers and katydids). Enjoy more cricket facts and how to take care of pet crickets.
 
Next time you hear a cricket, test out its temperature-telling prowess and let us know how it goes
taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/predict-temperature-cricket-chirps
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

​picture from britannia.com 

     ​Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering and warmth. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
  
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
 
Bush cucumbers, however, are nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
 
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
 
 
Planting
When to Plant Cucumbers
•Cucumber plants should be seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after the last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost and cold damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
•To get a head start, sow cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
 
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
•Select a site with full sun. Cucumbers need warmth and lots of light.
•Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy and compacted.
•Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of around 7.0.
•Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost, or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring. See our guide to soil amendments.
 
How to Plant Cucumbers
•Plant seeds 1 inch deep and about 2 to 3 feet apart in a row, depending on variety (see seed packet for details). For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
•Cucumbers can also be planted in mounds (or “hills”) that are spaced 1 to 2 feet apart, with 2 to 3 seeds planted in each mound. Once plants reach 4 inches in height, thin them to one plant per mound.
•If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
•After planting, mulch around the area with straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
•A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground. See how to build a trellis and support for vining vegetables.
•Cover freshly planted cucumber seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
 
How to Grow Cucumbers
•The main care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need at least one inch of water per week (or more, if temperatures are sky-high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
•Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t encourage leaf diseases that can ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
•Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
•When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
•When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are at least 1½ feet apart.
•If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
•If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
•If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
•Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
 
Spacing for Cucumbers
Pests/Diseases
•Little or No Fruit: ◦If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
◦Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
◦Remember, gynoecious hybrids require companion pollinator plants.
 
•Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
•Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
•Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
•Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
 
How to Harvest Cucumbers
•Don’t let cucumbers get too large or they will taste bitter.
•At peak harvesting time, you should be picking cucumbers every couple of days. They’ll grow quickly! ◦Harvest regular slicing cucumbers when they about 6 to 8 inches long (slicing varieties).
◦Harvest dills at 4 to 6 inches long and pickling cucumbers at 2 inches long.
◦The large burpless cucumbers can be up to 10 inches long and some types are even larger.
 
•Cucumbers are best picked before their seeds become hard and are eaten when immature. Do not let them get yellow. A cucumber is of highest quality when it is uniformly green, firm, and crisp.
•Any cucumbers left on the vine too long will also get tough skins and lower plant productivity.
•How to pick? Using a knife or clippers, cut the stem above the fruit. Pulling the fruit may damage the vine.
•Keep them picked. If you don’t, as plants mature, they will stop producing.
 
How to Store Cucumbers
•Cucumbers are over 90 percent water. Store wrapped tightly in plastic wrap to retain moisture.
•They will keep for a week to 10 days when stored properly in the refrigerator.
 
Recommended Varieties
•‘Burpless Bush Hybrid’ is a popular bush form of cucumber.
•‘Boston Pickling’ is our favorite heirloom variety bred especially for pickling.
•We also recommend disease-resistant ‘Sassy’ or ‘Calypso’ for early yields.
•Long, thin ‘Parisian Pickling’ is great for making gherkins or cornichons.
•Lemon cucumber is a smaller cucumber many folks find reliable.
 
 
Wit & Wisdom
•Plant cucumbers while you are wearing your pajamas, on the first day of May, before sunrise, and no bugs will eat them.
•If you’re pickling, consider growing dill, a favorite pickling herb! Plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply. See our Growing Guide for Dill.
•Don’t forget that cucumbers aren’t just for eating. When puréed in the blender, cucumbers make a great summer facial for toning the skin. Check out other great and unexpected uses for cucumbers.
•With special molds, you can grow cucumbers in different shapes like hearts and stars!
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/cucumbers
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

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taken from dundesouthdoors.blogspot.com 

      I had this ready to go this morning, but I was trying to get a picture I took of a butterfly to use on this page, but couldn't figure it out.  I will be thought I better get this one posted.  I will post the picture when I get it figured out.  

      Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
      I am including this article about attracting butterflies.  I have been having lots flying around the garden racks which I call my garden.  They love the zinnias, and the marigolds, plus we have most of these perennials and if they are blooming they are enjoying them also.  So you might want to plant some to have the enjoyment of seeing the butterflies. 
 
How to Design a Garden to Attract Butterflies and Hummingbirds   By Marie Iannotti
 
You don't need to go out of your way to attract butterflies to your garden. If you plant enough flowers, they will find them. However, there are a few tricks you can apply to your garden design to make your garden border more tempting. Butterflies are attracted to bright colors and butterflies and hummingbirds both like high-nectar plants such as the ones featured in this garden design.
 
Another consideration is providing plants for all stages of the butterfly's short life. For instance, adding a water feature such as a birdbath and rocks for sunning on.
 
The design illustrated here is for a curved border, 30-feet long by 10-feet wide. Most of the flowers selected are suitable for a range of hardiness zones, but alternatives are also listed. Keep in mind that local nurseries usually stock varieties that are uniquely adapted to your area.
 
Different species of butterflies prefer different plants, but you can be sure of attracting your share of butterflies with the plants in this garden design. The border is meant for full sun, which will also help in attracting butterflies since their wings need to be warm for them to be able to fly.
 
Most of the plants are suitable for a range of hardiness zones, but alternatives are listed. Specifics about each plant follow on successive pages.
01Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed)
02Panicum virgatum (switchgrass) 'Shenandoah'
03Scabiosa columbaria (pincushion flower) 'Pink Mist'
04Coreopsis verticillata (tickseed) 'Zagreb'
05Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower) 'Karat'
06Veronica spicata (spike speedwell) 'Sunny Border Blue'
07Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower)
08Asiatic lilies
09Agastache x 'Ava' (hummingbird mint)
10Eupatorium maculatum (Joe-Pye weed ) 'Gateway'
11Glandularia canadensis (rose verbena) 'Homestead Purple'
 
Butterfly weed is high in nectar and attracts butterflies and pollinating bees. You'll probably even get some swallowtail caterpillars snacking on the leaves, since Asclepias is in the milkweed family, which is a host plant for the swallowtail butterfly. But Asclepias tuberosa behaves much better than common milkweed.
 
Butterfly weed is one of the last plants to emerge in the spring, so be patient. It has a long taproot and doesn't like to be moved once it's established. But you get a handful of volunteers each year to keep your garden fresh or to give to friends.
 
Asclepias is extremely drought tolerant because of its taproot. It also doesn't need deadheading to keep blooming. You might want to deadhead to keep it tidy, but like its cousin the milkweed, butterfly weed will develop attractive green seed pods that are nice in arrangements.
■ Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed). USDA Zones 3–9, 2–3' x 2', orange blooms, repeat bloomer.
Alternatives:
■ Asclepias tuberosa 'Gay Butterflies.' USDA Zones 4–9; 2–3' x 2'; orange, red, and yellow blooms; repeat bloomer.
■ Kniphofia spp. (red hot poker). USDA Zones 5–9; 3–4' x 3'; orange, red, and yellow blooms; repeat bloomer.
 
Butterflies, like most flying creatures, look for sheltered places to rest now and then. Tall grass in your butterfly garden would be just the ticket.
 
Switchgrasses are airy clumps of thinned leaved grasses that sway in the breeze. They are tolerant of just about any type of soil and can become a nuisance self-seeding if you don't stay ahead of them. But most are valued for their tight clumping habit, airy nature, and the hazy flower and seed heads that form late in the season. Many such as the 'Shenandoah' have red fall color. Both Shenandoah's leaves and plumes turn a burgundy red.
■ Panicum virgatum (switchgrass) 'Shenandoah.' USDA Zones 4–9, 4' x 3', red foliage in the fall.
 
Alternatives:
■ Miscanthus sinensis (maiden hair grass) 'Gracillimus.' USDA Zones 5–9, 5–6' x 3', green foliage with copper-red plumes.
■ Pennisetum setaceum (purple fountain grass) 'Rubrum.' USDA Zones 9–11, 2–3' x 2–3', maroon foliage.
 
Delicate Pink Pincushion
Scabiosa is such an awful name for such a pretty little flower. The common name, pincushion flower, is far more descriptive. The button-like flowers are held high above the plant on sturdy stems. There is a variety called 'Butterfly Blue' that is very pretty, but not so hardy as 'Pink Mist.' However, none of the Scabiosa are particularly long-lived and may need replacing after a few seasons.
 
Deadheading keeps the plants blooming, and it's effortless to do because of the long flower stalks.
■ Scabiosa columbaria (pincushion flower) 'Pink Mist.' USDA Zones 3–9, 24" x 18", pink blooms, repeat bloomer, tends to be short-lived.
 
Alternatives:
■ Dalea purpureum (purple prairie clover). USDA Zones 3–9, 18" x 18", violet blooms, repeat bloomer, a legume and tolerant of most soil.
■ Achillea 'Appleblossom.' USDA Zones 3–9, 24" x 18", soft pink blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Coreopsis Verticillata Is an Edging Plant and a Lure
The threadleaf foliage of coreopsis verticillata makes a nice edging plant for this garden of soft colors. While coreopsis 'Zagreb' is a bolder yellow than the popular 'Moonbeam,' it's a much hardier plant, and it likes to spread out. Butterflies look for large swaths of color. They want to know it's worth their time to fly down and land.
 
The threadleaf coreopsis is very easy growing. They set an abundance of flower buds along their wispy flower stems. It's easiest to let the plants bloom themselves out and then shear back the whole plant by 1/3, rather than trying to deadhead. The plants will rally and rebloom in a matter of a couple of weeks.
■ Coreopsis verticillata (tickseed) 'Zagreb.' USDA Zones 3–9, 24" x 18", gold blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Alternatives:
■ Coreopsis verticillata (tickseed) 'Creme Brulee.' USDA Zones 4–8, 20" x 18", gold blooms, repeat bloomer.
■ Coreopsis verticillata (tickseed) 'Moonbeam.' USDA Zones 4–9, 20" x 18", pale yellow blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Annual sunflowers get all the attention. There's no denying they can be showstoppers, but the annual sunflowers and their cousins, the false sunflowers or Heliopsis, are no slouches either.
 
Heliopsis is a smaller, clumping plant with yellow, daisy-like flowers that bloom in great abundance and for up to three months. Deadheading improves the plant's overall appearance but doesn't seem to matter much for some blooms you get. The major maintenance required with Heliopsis helianthoides is periodic division every three to five years to keep the clump in control ad blooming freely. They can also tend to flop, especially after a rain, and staking keeps the clump tighter.
■ Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower) 'Karat' oxeye sunflower. USDA Zones 3–9, 3–4' x 2–3', yellow blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Alternatives:
■ Helianthus salicifolius (willowleaf sunflower). USDA Zones 3–9, 3–5' x 3–4', yellow blooms, mid- to late summer.
■ Rudbeckia fulgida (black-eyed Susan, orange coneflower) 'Goldsturm.' USDA Zones 3–9, 2' x 2', yellow blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
No garden should be without some spiky purple/blues. Veronicas have the nice feature of dense, compact foliage offset by tall flower spikes that start blooming from the bottom and work their way up to the tips. This makes the long period of bloom stretch even longer. And it makes deadheading quite simple, too.
 
The recent cultivars of Veronica such as 'Sunny Border Blue' and 'Goodness Grows' are worth seeking out for their wide adaptability, tolerance to drought, pest resistant foliage and, of course, their ability to repeat bloom throughout the growing season.
■ Veronica 'Sunny Border Blue.' USDA Zones 3– 8, 24" x 18", violet-blue blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Alternatives:
■ Salvia nemorosa (meadow sage) 'May Night.' USDA Zones 4–9, 18" x 18", deep purple blooms, repeat bloomer.
■ Lavandula augustifolia (English lavender) 'Buena Vista.' USDA Zones 5–10; 24" x 18"; fragrant, purple and violet blooms; mid- and late summer.
 
Echinacea deserves a spot in your garden just because it's a great performer. But it is also a butterfly favorite, and you'll find them sitting on the petals, taking in the sun and nectar. There's been a surge in coneflower breeding recently, 'White Swan,' 'Harvest Gold,' 'Orange Meadowbrite,' and 'Sunset,' making the term 'Purple' coneflower almost obsolete. But having other options doesn't mean the old standbys should be discarded and a butterfly garden is a perfect spot for some of the proven performers of the species.
■ Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower). USDA Zones 2–10, 3–4' x 3', magenta blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Alternatives:
■ Echinacea tennesseensis (Tennessee coneflower). USDA Zones 3–9, 18" x 18", magenta blooms, repeat bloomer.
■ Echinacea pallida (pale or tall coneflower). USDA Zones 5–9, 3-4' x 18", magenta blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Both of these plants have thinner petals than purpurea, and the tall coneflower is more swept-back.
 
As if you need an excuse to plant lilies. Daylilies (Hemerocallis) have become so ubiquitous that true lilies are more exotic than ever. But they're still just as easy to grow as ever. Give them a well-draining spot with at least a half day of sun, and you'll be fighting the butterflies for bouquets. It's always wise to plant extra lilies because they are hard to resist as cut flowers. But leave some for the butterflies. You're not the only one who can't resist the fragrance.
■ Lilium (Asiatic lily) 'Red Velvet.' USDA Zones 3–11, 3–4' x 1–2', scarlet blooms, June–July.
 
Alternatives:
■ Zauschneria arizonica (hardy hummingbird trumpet). USDA Zones 5–9, 3' x 2', red-orange blooms, repeat bloomer, loves heat, but not clay.
■ Monarda didyma (bee balm)' Jacob Kline.' USDA Zones 3–8, 3–4' x 3', red blooms, July–August.
 
Most gardeners know Agastache as anise hyssop, the spiky, blue-flowered plant that smells like anise or licorice. Anise hyssop is a versatile plant that will attract plenty of butterflies in its own right, but there is more variety out there in the world of Agastache.
 
'Ava' belongs to a group of Agastache commonly called the Hummingbird Mints. The pinkish red flowers start blooming in late summer and stay blooming for weeks. They even seem to get more intense in color as the season progresses. The Agastache pictured here was labeled something like 'Root Beer,' but David Salman, the plantsman who bred Agastache x 'Ava,' that it is Agastache rupestris (licorice mint hyssop), a wildflower species from Arizona and northern Mexico.
 
Agastache are hardy, drought tolerant, low-maintenance plants, but they need to get acclimated before they take off. They like rich soil and seem to overwinter better if you don't cut them back until spring. Once established, you'll become an addict and want every new Agastache that comes on the market. Once the butterflies are done with them, you can cut them for dried flowers, as well.
■ Agastache x 'Ava.' USDA Zones 5–10, 4' x 2', rose and red blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Alternatives:
■ Centranthus ruber (Jupiter's beard) 'Coccineus.' USDA Zones 4–9, 30" x 30", rose-red blooms, repeat bloomer.
■ Knautia macedonica. USDA Zones 5–10, 2' x 2', dark purplish-red blooms, repeat bloomer. Note: 6.6 to 8.0 (neutral–alkaline soil) Knautia is a tall, floppy plant, but will weave between other flowers easily. Gets large fast.
 
Native plants are often mistaken for weeds. As the saying goes, "You don't appreciate what you don't pay for." Joe-Pye has been dressing up roadsides for years. But the butterflies notice and if you turned your head as you drove past, you'd see them flitting about.
 
Joe-Pye Weed can be weedy. The species grows very tall and spreads eagerly. But it's been tamed, and there are several excellent cultivars out there now. Perhaps the best and most widely grown is 'Gateway.' Gateway has been scaled down to garden size, but it still makes an impact. This late-season bloomer will carry your butterfly garden well into fall.
 
The one catch with growing Eupatorium is that it prefers a moist environment. However, if you can keep it well watered the first season, it can handle a little less than ideal conditions in future years.
■ Eupatorium maculatum (Joe-Pye weed) 'Gateway.' USDA Zones 4–8, 6' x 6', mauve blooms, August–September.
 
Alternatives:
■ Buddleia davidii (butterfly bush) 'Potter's Purple.' USDA Zones 5–9, 4–6' x 3–4', purple blooms, repeat bloomer.
■ Salvia uliginosa (bog salvia). USDA Zones 6–10, 4–6' x 4', light blue blooms,k repeat bloomer.
 
Glandularia Canadensis 'Homestead Purple'
Glandularia is another pretty, evocative plant name. Rose verbena tells you why gardeners came up with common names in the first place. Despite the tag 'canadensis,' cold climate gardeners may see this plant offered as an annual and an inexpensive one at that. But it's worth a shot at overwintering outdoors.
 
Rose verbena starts blooming early in the summer and keeps going if you deadhead it. It also spreads out nicely, making it a good choice for edging. It has kind of a cascading habit, which has made it popular for growing in pots.
 
If Glandularia canadensis doesn't ring a bell with too many of you, it's because this plant is so easy to propagate that plant sellers can push it each year as a bedding plant. But it deserves a spot in the front of your butterfly garden, because the mounded clusters of flowers not only give the butterflies a place to land, they offer multiple nectar sources.
■ Glandularia canadensis (rose verbena) 'Homestead Purple.' USDA Zones 6–9, 12" x 9", lilac blooms, repeat bloomer.
 
Alternatives:
■ Eupatorium coelestinum (hardy ageratum) 'Wayside.' USDA Zones 3–8, 15" x 20", lavender-blue blooms, repeat bloomer.
■ Nepeta (catmint) 'Blue Wonder.' USDA Zones 3–8, 12" x 18", lavender blooms, June and August.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/attracting-butterflies-and-hummingbirds-
   till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net