image from creativecaincabin.com

      ​Question: The state for the untidy. (Abbreviation of a U.S. state)  I got this one.  You give it a try.
Weather is awesome out.  Blue, clear sky. Temperature at 11:00 AM is 41 degrees with a low tonight of 24 and a high of 44 degrees.  I have to tell you in the greenhouse yesterday afternoon it was over 90 degrees.  We need to take one of the plastic walls so we can get the cool air into the greenhouse.  See what Friday brings.  With the rule of thumb of planting radishes.  4-6 weeks before our last killing frost which is May 15th.  So April 1st we can plant radishes.  Spring is coming I promise.  Stay safe. 
PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING RADISHES  By The Editors
Radishes are a hardy, very easy-to-grow root vegetable that can be planted multiple times in a growing season. Plus, radishes can be harvested as soon as three weeks after planting! Here’s our full guide on how to grow radishes in your garden.
Radish seeds can be planted in both the spring and the fall, but growing should be suspended in the height of summer, when temperatures are typically too hot. (Hot temperatures may cause radishes to bolt, making them essentially useless.)
Otherwise, radishes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow.
PLANTING
SELECTING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE
Plant in a sunny spot. If radishes are planted in too much shade—or even where neighboring vegetable plants shade them—they will put all their energy into producing larger leaves.
Like carrots, radish plants are primarily grown for their roots. Though the soil needs to be rich in organic matter, it should not be compacted. If your soil is more clay-like, mix in some sand to loosen it and improve drainage.
If your soil isn’t rich in organic matter, incorporate a few inches of aged compost or all-purpose fertilizer (see packaging for amount) into the planting site as soon as the soil is workable.
Till your garden bed to remove any rocks or dirt clods before planting.
Practice three-year crop rotation. In other words, only plant radishes in the same spot every third year. This will help prevent diseases from affecting your crop.
HOW TO PLANT RADISHES
For a spring planting, sow seeds 4–6 weeks before the average date of last frost.
It’s best to plant radish seeds directly in the garden so as not to disturb their roots. Directly sow seeds outdoors ½ to 1 inch deep and 1 inch apart in rows 12 inches apart.
Plant another round of seeds every 10 days or so—while weather is still cool—for a continuous harvest of radishes in the late spring and early summer.
Plan on a fall planting. You can plant radishes later than any other root crop in late summer or early fall and still get a harvest. Sow seeds 4–6 weeks before the first fall frost.
CARE
HOW TO GROW RADISHES
Thin radishes to about 2 inches apart when the plants are a week old. Crowded plants do not grow well.
Consistent, even moisture is key. Keep soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. A drip irrigation system is a great way to achieve this.
Putting a thin layer of mulch around the radishes can help retain moisture in dry conditions.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbage Root Maggot
Clubroot
Weeds: Weeds will quickly crowd out radishes, so keep the bed weed-free. See a list of common garden weeds here.
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW AND WHEN TO HARVEST RADISHES
Radishes will be ready to harvest quite rapidly, as soon as three weeks after planting for some varieties.
For most varieties, harvest when roots are approximately 1 inch in diameter at the soil surface. Pull one out and test it before harvesting the rest!
Do not leave radishes in the ground long after their mature stage; their condition will deteriorate quickly.
Cut the tops and the thin root tail off, wash the radishes, and dry them thoroughly. Store in plastic bags in the refrigerator.
Radish greens can be stored separately for up to three days.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
‘French Breakfast’: a late-maturing variety that does OK in moderate heat.
‘Watermelon’: a mild, sweet radish with white skin and a pinkish center.
‘Burpee White’: spring variety, white skin.
‘Daikon’: A white, Japanese, “winter radish” that gets large (up to 16 inches long). Best grown in cooler climates or during the cooler ends of the growing season.
‘Rat’s Tail’: These radishes are grown for their seedpods rather than their root. The pods offer a tangy, spicy flavor stronger than your usual radish.
‘Dragon’s Tail’: Like ‘Rat’s Tail’, these radishes are grown for their seedpods. The pods of this variety are thinner and turn a lovely purple color.
WIT & WISDOM
Radish seeds have a fairly long shelf life. Don’t be afraid to plant radish seeds that are up to five years old. All may not germinate, but you’ll have plenty that will.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/radishes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
Answer: Wash

image from Farmers alamanac.com   Christmas Rose

image from Farmers alamanac.com   Lenton Rose  

​Here is today’s word puzzle.  I can’t figure them out but I am having a few do that.  GOOD FOR YOU!!!!
Question: Read from the left, I shall be found a portion of all things that are; but change your hand and turn me ‘round, I then am nothing but a snare.
(What word fits the first clue, but when read backwards, fits the second?)
CLEAR, BLUE sky.  Temperature is at 33 degrees at 7:30 AM.  AWESOME.  We are above the normal temperature which is good.  But for the average to come out for the month of March at some point we will have to be below normal.  BUT enjoy these temperatures, the sun while we have it. Slowly our snow is melting.  I am glad it is slow because then it will not flood the greenhouse.  Larry and I have been working together on how to get more growing space in our greenhouse.  We are trying to use what we have and not have to build or buy new tables.  I do think we have it figured out.  Yes I am planting and enjoying every minute of it.  Hard to get other things done that I have done in the winter, but working that out.  Stay safe and enjoy the sun. 
GROWING HELLEBORES: THE CHRISTMAS ROSE AND THE LENTEN ROSE
ENJOY THESE CRITTER-RESISTANT, EARLY-BLOOMING SHADE PLANTS  By Robin Sweetser
Hellebore Plant
The earliest plants to blossom in my garden are the snowdrops. While they are a welcome sign of spring, the hellebores really steal the show as they poke through the last of winter’s snow. Learn more about growing these perennial flowering plants, specifically the varieties of Christmas rose and Lenten rose.
ABOUT HELLEBORES
Hellebores bear glossy, evergreen leaves and rose-like flowers which bloom in winter or early spring. Though they are commonly called a “rose,” they are not in the rose family! Actually, they are more closely related to peonies, since both belong to the Ranunculus family.
Aristocrats of woodland gardens in Europe, hellebores most enjoy a shady or partial-shade location—at the entrance of your home, near your back porch, or under the shade of large shrubs or trees. Often coupled with ferns, the plants work well as a ground cover, too.
Importantly, hellebores are resistant to deer and voles!
A TALE OF TWO PRETTIES
This is a tale of two pretty hellebores:
Christmas Rose: This white-flowered hellebore (Helleborus niger) blooms in December in warmer climates.
Lenten Rose: This pinkish-purple hellebore (H. orientalis) generally blooms arounds Lent (late February into early March).
THE CHRISTMAS ROSE
In my chilly Zone 5 garden, the Christmas rose actually waits until March to emerge from the last remnants of snow. Their evergreen leaves look a little ratty after a long winter but they are soon replaced with fresh new ones.
Tiny new buds emerge early in the spring as soon as they can break through the soil.
Their five-petaled, ivory-white blossoms are about 3 inches across and resemble large, single roses.
A well-established Christmas rose will stand about 12 to 15 inches tall and bear 20 stems of flowers. Some blossoms turn pink as they age but mine mature to a yellow shade.
Their species name refers to the roots, which are black—and poisonous. In fact, the word hellebore in Greek means “food to kill,” so be cautious when working around them. Some experts recommend wearing gloves when cutting back the leaves, and be sure to keep any plant-munching pets or children away from them.
THE LENTEN ROSE
The Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis) blooms in April in my northern garden, so most years it technically does blossom during at least part of Lent. It is a little larger than the Christmas rose, standing about 24 inches tall and produces up to 30 stems, each topped with 2 or 3 nodding blossoms. The flowers are about 3 inches across but since it readily crosses with other species of hellebores, it comes in a wide array of interesting colors from white to pinks, maroon, lilac, and deep purple.
Many of the Lenten Rose’s blossoms have freckles, blushes of contrasting colors, or even stripes and there are single and double forms. Let your plant go to seed and in a few years you will be able to harvest the hybrid seedlings that come up underneath the plant’s protective leaves.
CARING FOR HELLEBORES
Hellebores like the same conditions as many other early bloomers—cool, dappled shade, and most but well-drained, humus-y soil. Take care to amend the soil with plenty of organic matter, such as well-aged leaf mold and/or compost.
They look great as understory plants with rhododendrons and azaleas, planted along a woodland path, or in a shady mixed border.
I grow mine near the back porch so that I can keep a close eye on the progress of these eagerly awaited blossoms. The flowers make up for their lack of fragrance by being long-lived, remaining on the plant into early summer.
Slow to become established, hellebores take a few years to settle in before they bloom, so you need to be patient. Like peonies, hellebores are long-lived and will eventually develop into large clumps with extensive root systems. Cold hardy to Zone 4, they are more susceptible to loss if grown in a hot, humid environment. They are not heavy feeders; a yearly application of well-rotted manure or compost early in the spring will keep them satisfied.
At a time of year when every blossom is precious, you’ll find that there is nothing boring about hellebores!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/hellebores
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
Answer: Part - trap

image from NC State University 

      ​All I can say is WOW…  Temperature right now at 7:30AM is 23 degrees but the high today will be 42 degrees with a low tonight of 25.  Sunny, warm, breezy today.  Looks like for the next 10 days high in the 40’s to the 50’s and lows will be in the 30’s.  Enjoy while we have it, it is still March so we could still get snow, cold but below zero might be harder to get.  Stay safe and enjoy the sunshine and warmth.  I am enjoying as I am planting. 
Question: When does maple sugaring usually start?
Question: An animal and a symbol of liberty.
We can’t plant the daffodils now, but here is the care for the ones you have planted this season. 
GROWING DAFFODILS
HOW TO PLANT, GROW, AND CARE FOR DAFFODILS  By Catherine Boeckmann
The bright yellow blooms of daffodils are a wonderful sign of spring—but do you know how and when to plant them properly? Here are tips on planting daffodil bulbs, caring for daffodils, and what to do after they flower.
ABOUT DAFFODILS
Daffodils are a hardy and easy perennial that grows in most regions of North America, except in the hottest, wettest areas, such as South Florida. Daffodils are a fall-planted bulb, so plant them in autumn and they will bloom in late winter or early spring.
The traditional daffodil flower may be a showy yellow or white, with six petals and a trumpet-shape central corona, but many cultivated varieties (“cultivars”) exist today. Leafless stems bear between 1 and 20 flowers; sometimes the flowers need to be staked so that they don’t weigh down the stems.
Daffodils are suitable for planting between shrubs or in a border, or for forcing blooms indoors. They look wonderful in a woodland garden and in large groves. You’ll find that many gardeners plant the bulbs not just by the dozens but by the hundreds! Daffodil flowers also make for great springtime cut flowers.
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT DAFFODILS
Plant daffodil bulbs in the fall—about 2 to 4 weeks before the ground freezes. See local frost dates and get more tips on planting fall bulbs.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE
Select a site that offers full sun or partial sun, at the least. Daffodils will bloom best when given adequate exposure to early spring sunshine!
Most daffodils tolerate a range of soils but grow best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is kept moist during the growing season. They are susceptible to rot when kept too wet, so make sure that you plant them in a well-draining spot.
Many of the popular species prefer neutral to acidic soils, but some prefer slightly alkaline soils, so consult the supplier of your bulbs to see which is best for your daffodil variety.
Over time, daffodils will produce new, “daughter” bulbs that are attached to the main bulb which you planted originally. This results in nice little clumps of daffodils that stay relatively contained to where you planted them.
HOW TO PLANT DAFFODILS
Select high-quality daffodil bulbs that have not been dried out. The larger the bulb, the better.
Plant with the top or pointy end up about 2 to 3 times as as deep as the bulb is high. For example, the top of a 2″ bulb is at least 4″ deep (measuring from the bottom of the bulb) while a 3-inch long bulb should be planted 5 inches deep.
Daffodils will tolerate some crowding, but they prefer to be spaced about 3 to 6 inches apart.
It may help to sprinkle a little bulb fertilizer in the hole during planting. Learn more about preparing soil for planting.
Where winters are severe, make sure there are at least 3 inches of soil covering the bulb.
Resist the temptation to uncover spring-flowering plants such as daffodils and tulips. You can loosen mulch, but the shoots will still benefit from protection against cold, drying winds in early spring.
Daffodils contain something called oxalic acid—a substance that makes them unpalatable to most rodent pests. However, if yours are being bothered, consider adding sharp sharp pieces of shells or a pelleted rodent deterrent into and around each planting hole.
CARE
HOW TO GROW DAFFODILS
Apply a low-nitrogen, high-potash (potassium) fertilizer after flowering if bulbs are not performing as desired. Learn more about preparing soil for planting and soil amendments.
Water late-flowering daffodils in dry spring weather (flowers may abort in dry conditions).
Deadhead plants as flowers fade (for neater garden appearance) and allow leaves to remain for at least 6 weeks.
Lift and divide the clumps when flowering becomes sparse or the clumps congested.
After daffodils bloom in the spring, allow the plants to grow until they die off. Do NOT cut down earlier. They need time after blooming to store energy in the bulbs for next year’s bloom.
To remove the dead plants, either snip them off at the base, or twist the leaves while pulling lightly.
Once daffodils and tulips have gone by, add bonemeal to the soil for next year’s blooms.
PESTS/DISEASES
Daffodils are both deer-resistant and rodent-proof, as these animals do not like the taste of the bulbs in the Narcissus family.
Daffodils can also be toxic to pets, so make sure your animals don’t munch on them.
The most common problems include large narcissus bulb fly, bulb scale mite, narcissus nematode, slugs, narcissus basal rot and other fungal infections, and viruses.
HARVEST/STORAGE
USING DAFFODILS AS CUT FLOWERS
When cut, daffodils should be kept alone in a vase, as their stems secrete a fluid that promotes the wilting of other flowers. If you must combine them, soak them by themselves for as long as possible, then rinse them and add them to the arrangement last. Learn more about keeping cut flowers fresh.
Note that contact with the sap of daffodils may irritate skin or aggravate skin allergies.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
‘Golden Ducat’ is a double daffodil with pure yellow petals. It blooms in mid- to late season and grows 12 to 16 inches tall.
‘Petit Four’ is a good choice for a partially shady site. The flower has white petals with a double cup of apricot pink and grows 16 inches tall.
‘Rip van Winkle’ is a miniature double daffodil that grows 6 to 8 inches tall and looks great in a grove with many others of its kind.
Daffodils with white and orange.
WIT & WISDOM
Daffodils are a March birth flower.
Daffodils symbolize regard for someone
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/daffodils
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
Answer: Although maple sugaring sometimes starts as early as the second or third week of February, it usually begins about the first week of March
(Use these clues to find the two words that, when combined, form the name of a flower.)
Answer: Answer: Harebell

image from libraything.com 

​Today’s question is Question: What is a good substitute for cannellini (white kidney) beans in a recipe?
Clear, blue sky at 8:30 AM on Monday March 1st.  Coming in a like a lamb I would say.  Cooler today as the temperature now is 23 degrees with a high of 28.  Tonight another night of low in the teens, but that looks like it for the next ten days.  Going to be spring like, but don’t get your hopes up too high that it is spring yet.  Here is what the Farmers’ Alamac says about our spring. 
SPRING WEATHER FORECAST 2021: RAIN OR SHINE? FROST OR FLOWERS?
SEE OUR PREDICTIONS FOR THE START OF SPRING AND BEYOND!  By Michael Steinberg
Believe it or not, spring is just around the corner! The season starts with the spring equinox on Saturday, March 20. Will we be graced with a warm spring season or will cooler weather hang around? And what about rain? Read on for weather predictions from Old Farmer’s Almanac meteorologist Michael Steinberg!
THE ALMANAC’S SPRING WEATHER FORECAST
While winter may still have our attention for several more weeks, that doesn’t mean that we can’t start looking toward the season ahead. After all, that is what The Old Farmer’s Almanac has been doing for 229 years!
The next season officially begins, of course, with the spring equinox, which arrives on Saturday, March 20, at 5:37 A.M. Eastern Time. At this time, the Sun stands directly over Earth’s equator, and we can wake up knowing that we are inching ever closer to the longest day of the year, the summer solstice.
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves dreaming of summer weather just yet. First, let’s talk about what to expect for spring.
WHAT WEATHER WILL SPRING BRING ACROSS THE UNITED STATES?
This spring, we’re expecting to see warmer-than-normal temperatures across much of the northern United States, from the Northeast through the Midwest and into the High Plains. Warmer-than-normal temperatures are also predicted for parts of the Intermountain region, Desert Southwest, Alaska, and Hawaii.
From the northern half of the Intermountain region to the Pacific coast, as well as across much of the southern U.S., we’re predicting that near-normal to cooler-than-normal temperatures are in store for the spring season.
Hopefully, by the time Easter arrives on April 4, we’ll have left winter weather far behind us!
Spring Showers to Bring Plenty of Flowers
Rainfall will be above normal in the Northeast, Southeast, Florida, and eastern Great Lakes; from the High Plains into Oklahoma and Texas; and in the Desert Southwest and southern California and below or near normal elsewhere in the country. Watch for a tropical storm threat in Florida in mid-May, too.
SPRINGTIME IN CANADA
In Canada, spring temperatures will be above normal from the Prairies northward into Yukon and Northwest Territories. Elsewhere in the country, near to below-normal temperatures are expected.
Precipitation will be near to below normal in Atlantic Canada and the Prairies and near to above normal elsewhere.
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, START YOUR… SEEDS!
Good news! Warmer-than-normal spring temperatures in the North could mean an early start to the gardening season, while cooler-than-normal temperatures in the South could give gardeners a chance to get things growing before summer’s heat kicks in! No matter where you are, be sure to consult our
Mike Steinberg is Senior Vice President for Special Initiatives at AccuWeather Inc in State College, Pennsylvania. He is also a member of the National Weather Association and the Canadian Meteorological and Oceanographic Society.
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-9365 
Answer: Great Northern or navy beans may be substituted for cannellini beans. The black and white calypso beans, which take less cooking time than the cannellini beans, are also a good choice

image from freestockphotos

      ​I don’t know if you will get this puzzle or not.  I didn’t that is for sure.  BUT word puzzles aren’t my best. 
Question: I am a word of four letters; in me may be found a verb, an animal, a viscid liquid, a science, a conjunction, and a preposition.
Unbelievable out.  Temperature is at 27 degrees at 9:00 AM.  Blue, clear sky and going to warm up to 34 degrees which average temperature is 39 so it is getting to be more seasonable.  Only going to get warmer, a little snow predicted for Friday night into Saturday but don’t think it will be very much for very many of us.  Enjoy and be safe.
Want to start your first vegetable garden? How hard can it be? Just stick a few seeds in the ground and stand back, right? If only it were that easy! Here are 10 garden planning tips to consider before you dig in.
10 TIPS FOR STARTING A GARDEN
1. Pick the right location—ideally, a sunny site! Most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sun a day. Some crops such as lettuce and spinach, and other greens will grow well in your partially sunny spots, but sun-loving plants like tomatoes and peppers need as much light as possible.
2. Keep it close to home. A location near your house will make it easier for you to tend your plot regularly and will also make it convenient to run out and pick what you need for a meal.
3. Only grow things your family likes to eat.There’s no sense in spending all your time and energy (and money) growing things you won’t enjoy or that will go to waste! Browse our library of Growing Guides to find veggies that spark your eye.
4. Water needs to be readily available. Nothing burns out a beginning gardener faster than having to lug water to thirsty plants during a heat wave. Consider investing in a quality hose with a sprayer attachment or, even better, a drip irrigation system.
5. Good soil is the key to a successful garden. Plants depend on the soil for nutrients, stability, and drainage. To grow your best garden, start with well-drained, sandy loam and add as much organic matter as possible.
6. Amend your soil.Compost, leaf mold, or well-aged manure will increase the ability of your soil to both drain well and hold moisture—the sponge factor. However, never use fresh manure! It can harbor dangerous pathogens and will burn tender plant roots. Compost it for at least 6 to 12 months.
7. Seeds or plants? Most garden vegetables can be directly seeded where they are to grow—lettuce, beans, carrots, beets, chard, spinach, peas, cucumbers, and squash. Things that take longer to produce an edible fruit do better with a head start. Purchase transplants for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and melons or start your own indoors 6 to 8 weeks before planting them outside. See seed-starting dates here.
8.Choose varieties that will mature in your growing season. See the Almanac Planting Calendar for planting dates based on the first and last frost dates and length of the growing season in your area.
9. Keep your garden productive by staggering plantings of fast-maturing veggies such as beans and lettuce and replanting other areas as they are harvested. Don’t plant all at once!
 
10. Use raised garden beds or containers if you don’t have much space to work with. If you have impossibly rocky soil or solid clay, consider building some raised beds that you can fill with good soil. Growing vegetables in containers is another option. If you want an instant garden, try grow bags.
Alternatively, lay down large bags of potting soil in your sunniest location, poke drainage holes in the bottom, make some slits in the top and pop in your transplants. I had a friend who lined her driveway with bags every spring since it was the only sunny spot she had. Her tomato plants were beautiful and she grew luscious peppers, too!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-tips-beginner-gardeners
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
Answer: Star - sat - rat - tar - art - as - a

image from austenauthors.net

      ​Question: What is the little squiggly line on the keyboard called? It looks like this: ~.
Weather forecast for March is really not clear, we can read into it whatever we want with good weather, bad weather and everything else.  But it is fun to see what the Almanac’s says. 
THE ALMANAC’S WEATHER FORECAST FOR MARCH  By Michael Steinberg
Let’s talk weather predictions for March 2021. According to weather folklore, if March “comes in like a lion, [it] goes out like a lamb.” Let’s see what sort of weather March has in store for us this year.
MARCH 2021 WEATHER FORECAST
“Spring forward,” indeed! Overall, March will feature above-normal temperatures on average in most areas, with cooler-than-normal readings limited to the western United States, Quebec, and British Columbia. Expect below-normal precipitation in most areas in the western states, with near- or above-normal precipitation elsewhere.
On March 14, we “spring forward” with the start of Daylight Saving Time. While this means that we have an extra hour or so of sunlight in the evening, it also means that we lose about an hour in the morning until we “fall back” in the fall.
Most of the United States and Canada will experience springlike temperatures on the 14th, with the only exceptions being the Upper Midwest, Pacific Northwest, and Canadian Maritimes, Prairies, and North, where more winterlike temperatures will prevail.
Mild or perhaps even warm temperatures will be the rule in most places on March 17, St. Patrick’s Day, although rainy periods may dampen celebrations in the Appalachians and Deep South, from Texas to the Heartland and High Plains, from Montana to the Pacific Northwest, in Hawaii, from western Ontario into Quebec, and in southern British Columbia. Colder temperatures and snow showers will add a flurry to parades in Alaska, the Canadian Maritimes, and northwest Ontario and from northern British Columbia into and across Yukon and the Northwest Territories.
Springlike weather will appropriately occur in most areas at the spring equinox on March 20, although snow showers will remind us more of winter in the High Plains, Intermountain region, Alaska, Canadian Maritimes, and many central, western, and northern swaths of Canada.
On March 28—both Palm Sunday and the first day of Passover—sunny, mild weather will predominate, with rainy periods limited to Texas, the Intermountain region, California, and Hawaii, and snow showers possible in northern Alaska and from Quebec into the Canadian Maritimes.
“IN LIKE A LION, OUT LIKE A LAMB”
Now back to this proverb. If you think about it, the proverb makes sense for March. It’s a transitional month starting with winter, ending with spring.
Where did this proverb come from?
It’s appeared over the centuries. John Ray (1627–1705) was a naturalist who wrote, “March hack ham [hackande = annoying] comes in like a lion, goes out like a lamb.” This is published in the “Catalogue of English Proverbs” in 1670. The phrase “March came in like a lion” shows up in Ames Almanac in 1740.
A favorited theory (which fits the Almanac) is that the proverb is based on astronomy and the positions of the constellations. At the beginning of the year, we have Leo the Lion (eastern horizon); by the end of March, it’s Aries the Ram (western horizon).
There have also been religious associations: Jesus arrives as the sacrificial lamb at Easter, but will return as the Lion of Judah. Weather-wise, this means a false spring.
Of course, the Almanac has many other March proverbs in its archives. Here are a couple that have lasted the ages:
So many mists in March you see, So many frosts in May will be.
March comes in with adders’ heads and goes out with peacocks’ tails.
They aren’t quite as memorable as the lion and the lamb!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/march-weather-forecast
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
Answer: It’s called a tilde. Around the 12th century, Spanish scribes, in part to save paper, placed the tilde over a letter to indicate that it was doubled. As time passed, the mark was only used over the letter “n”; eventually, the ñ became an actual letter of the Spanish alphabet. In Portuguese, the tilde is used over vowels to indicate nasality. In other languages, it can indicate rising or falling tones. The tilde is also used in mathematics to indicate negation.

image from blogspot.com

     ​Question today
Question: What is the difference between pastrami and corned beef?
Answer:  on the bottom of this writing…..
We got snow yesterday between 4-5 inches, but Larry said it is easy to move as it is fluffy not heavy and wet like they predicted.  Blue sky, so it will be good with the snow and the temperature is 23 degrees at 8:00 AM.  HEAT wave for us.  Enjoy, stay safe, and stay warm.   
We will have cherry trees here for your spring planting.  A variety that is sweet and another one that is sour. 
PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING CHERRIES  By Catherine Boeckmann
Cherry trees are a sight to behold in the spring, when they’re covered in white or pink blossoms. After that, they produce the delicious cherries most people know and love. Here’s how to grow cherry trees in your own garden!
Sweet cherries are the variety most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plumb-like texture. Sweet cherries grow in hardiness zones 5 to 7; they are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You’ll need at least two or three trees, as they’ll need to pollinate each other. If space is limited, consider the dwarf, self-pollinating cultivar ‘Stella’.
Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in zones 4 to 6.
Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts.
Plant cherry trees in early spring or late fall (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content) in a sunny site with good air circulation and deep, well-drained soil. Apply mulch and water well. After flowering in a fruiting year, you’ll need to drape trees with wildlife-safe netting to protect the fruit from birds.
PLANTING
Plant cherries in the late fall or early spring (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content).
For sweet cherries, make sure the different varieties will pollinate each other.
Plant in a sunny site with good air circulation; avoid planting near trees or buildings that shade.
Cherry trees need deep, well-drained soil.
Space sweet cherries 35 to 40 feet apart; dwarfs, 5 to 10 feet apart.
Space tart cherries 20 to 25 feet apart; dwarfs, 8 to 10 feet apart.
Set trees on standard rootstocks with the graft union a few inches below the soil level. Set trees on dwarf rootstock with the graft union several inches above the soil level.
When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting. Plant fans only 12 to 15 feet apart.
For bareroot trees, place the rootstock on a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away, trying not to bend the roots. Backfiill with soil.
For container-grown trees, first remove the rootball and on its side; cut through the roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball.
CARE
There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries.
Apply mulch to retain moisture.
Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds.
Water routinely in dry areas.
Thinning the fruit is not necessary for cherry trees, as they typically thin naturally in early summer.
Prune trees every year in late winter to encourage the growth of new fruiting wood. Don’t prune in the fall.
Fertilize each spring until trees start to bear, then fertilize only after harvest each season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Caterpillars
Brown Rot
Black Knot
Bacterial Canker (cut out any branches with signs of black knot or bacterial canker as soon as possible)
Birds
HARVEST/STORAGE
Pick fruits only when FULLY ripe (dark red, black, yellow); the sugar content rises the few days before fully ripened.
Be ready to harvest within a week’s time. Eat or cook immediately.
Pick fruits when firm if they are to be frozen.
Be sure top pick with the cherry stem so you do not tear into the fruit, however, take care to lead the fruit spur to produce fruit next year.
Hand-picking may injure the shoots and cause infection; Cut the stalks with scissors.
Remember that cherry trees do not bear fruit until their fourth year. Thereafter, they should produce about 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Sweet Cherries
Early - ‘Black Tartarian’
Midseason - ‘Bing’
Late - ‘Stella’
Sour Cherries
Early - ‘Early Richmond’
Midseason - ‘Montmorency’
Late - ‘Meteor’
WIT & WISDOM
A cherry year, a merry year.
There is a famous myth that President George Washington cut down a cherry tree and then admitted his wrongdoing to his father. This myth was invented by a biographer of President Washington, who hoped to display his honesty. We still think it’s a great idea to commemorate President’s Day with a delicious cherry pie recipe!
Taken from  https://www.almanac.com/plant/cherries
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
Answer: Both are usually made from a beef brisket and are cured in brine. But pastrami is smoked after being cured, and corned beef is not. 

image from maylindstromskin.com 

​Question: What do we often return but never borrow?  I love this answer.  Did you figure it out?  I don’t so I have to look at the answer which is at the bottom of this blog writing.
      Sun is shining with a clear blue sky.  Temperature is at 14 degrees at 11:30 AM.  It is warming up.  We will feel like going outside now won’t we.  Still tonight below zero but then there is a warm up.  After 14 days of this, we all will say thank you.  I will feel like working in the greenhouse next week. 
WHAT IS WITCH HAZEL?
Witch Hazel in the Garden and for Healing  By George Lohmiller
Our witch hazel started blooming in February. Its yellow to orange-red flowers add a slash of color to drab winter landscapes. Learn more about this wonderfully hardy, fragrant plant—which also has therapeutic qualities. It tells us that spring is around the corner!
WHAT IS WITCH HAZEL?
Witch hazel is a genus of flowering plants in the family Hamamelidaceae.
For much of the year, witch hazel, or winterbloom, is a shrub that grows mostly unnoticed along shaded stream banks and in damp woods from Georgia to southern Canada. Its light gray bark and rounded green leaves blend in well with its surroundings. Even when the leaves turn a dazzling clear yellow in the fall, their beauty is often lost in the colorful tangle of other plants.
Witch hazel blossoms not in the spring or summer when most flowers bloom! Rather, most species bloom from January to March. The fragrant, tasseled yellow blossoms often appear against a background of early snow. Other types of witch hazel flower in late fall or even December. As the shrub blooms, its previous year’s fruit matures. The seed capsules explode with an audible pop, shooting their two hard, shiny black seeds several yards from the parent plant.
Witch hazel not only pops with color, but also has blooms with a wonderfully spicy fragrance. They’re very hardy and are not prone to a lot of diseases.
WHY IS IT CALLED WITCH HAZEL?
The plant’s name does not refer to witchcraft, but comes from the Middle English word wych or wyche, meaning pliant or flexible, which is a reference to the plant’s very flexible branches. The “hazel” in the name comes from the plant’s similarity to the common hazelnut.
WITCH HAZEL IN THE GARDEN
If for no other reason than its time of winter bloom, witch hazel is a valuable landscaping plant—but it’s also attractive in the spring and summer with its dark green leaves and graceful, spreading vase shape.
Choose its planting site carefully, because most varities grow 25 feet tall and just as wide. Witch hazels can be kept smaller with pruning once they are finished blooming. However, they really do best in large planting areas for normal growth. With their shallow, slow-growing root systems, it’s best you have plenty of room.
Being shade tolerant, witch hazel is often used for naturalizing wooded areas, but these plants actually perform best in full sun (or, filtered shade in hot zones) and develop brighter fall foliage when planted in the open.
They prefer well-amended soil and regular water, and are tolerant of both acid or alkaline conditions. Its extreme cold hardiness and resistance to insects and disease make witch hazel a good choice for an easy-care planting.
WITCH HAZEL AS A NATURAL REMEDY
Native Americans used the plant’s springy wood to make bows. They also valued the shrub for its medicinal qualities, using the astringent leaves and bark to control bleeding and take the sting out of insect bites, and drinking the tea as a mild sedative.
Its leaves, bark, and twigs are still used to make astringents for treating certain skin inflammations and other irritations; the plant contains tannins which help decrease swelling and fight bacteria.
The witch hazel that we find in the medicine cabinet today is made by distilling the bark of twigs and roots with alcohol, which creates a soothing lotion that reduces swelling and relieves aching joints. More than a million gallons of witch hazel are sold each year in the United States, making it one of the most popular natural remedies. Find out more about using witch hazel as a natural remedy.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/extra/what-witch-hazel
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone  641-903-9365
 
Answer: Thanks

image from blogspot.com

      ​Question: My first is a color; my second is an agreeable exercise; my third is an article of clothing; my whole is a celebrated character.
(What is the phrase? Here are clues to each word!)
Here is your question for today from the Farmer’s Almanac.  Answer at the end of the blog writing. 
We had another cold night, one more night and then it will be a warm up.  Looks like we have had 2 weeks of this.  But our heat and electricity has stayed on, so we have to be thankful.  Feel for the many that don’t have heat or electricity in Texas.  Wonder how our fellow greenhouse owners are doing?????  Prayers are with all of them.  Hope they get some relief soon. 
The aloe vera plant is an easy, attractive succulent that makes for a great indoor companion. Aloe vera plants are useful, too, as the juice from their leaves can be used to relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Here’s how to grow and care for aloe vera plants in your home!
Aloe vera is a succulent plant species of the genus Aloe. The plant is stemless or very short-stemmed with thick, greenish, fleshy leaves that fan out from the plant’s central stem. The margin of the leaf is serrated with small teeth.
Before you buy an aloe, note that you’ll need a location that offers bright, indirect sunlight (or, artificial sunlight). However, the plant doesn’t appreciate sustained direct sunlight, as this tends to dry out the plant too much and turn its leaves yellow, rendering them subpar for use.
Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for periodic use but avoid having the sun’s rays hit it directly.
Please note: The gel from aloe vera leaves can be used topically, but should not be ingested by people or pets. It can cause unpleasant symptoms such as nausea or indigestion and may even be toxic in larger quantities.
PLANTING
BEFORE PLANTING
It’s important to chose the right type of container. A pot made from terra-cotta or a similarly porous material is recommended, as it will allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings and will also be heavy enough to keep the plant from tipping over. A plastic or glazed pot may also be used, though these will hold more moisture.
When choosing a container, be sure to pick one that has at least one drainage hole in the bottom. This is key, as the hole will allow excess water to drain out. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting, which is easily the most common cause of death for this plant.
Select a container that’s about as wide as it is deep. If your aloe plant has a stem, choose a container that is deep enough for you to plant the entire stem under the soil.
Aloe vera plants are succulents, so use a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Do not use gardening soil. A good mix should contain perlite, lava rock, chunks of bark, or all three.
A layer of gravel, clay balls, or any other “drainage” material in the bottom of the pot is not necessary. This only takes up space that the roots could otherwise be using. A drainage hole is drainage enough!
(Optional) To encourage your aloe to put out new roots after planting, dust the stem of the plant with a rooting hormone powder. Rooting hormone can be found at a local garden center or hardware store, or bought online.
HOW TO PLANT (OR REPOT) AN ALOE VERA PLANT
If your aloe plant has grown leggy, has gotten too large, or simply needs an upgrade, it’s time to repot it. Here’s how:
Prepare your pot. After giving the new pot a quick rinse (or a good scrub, if it’s a pot you’ve used before) and letting it dry thoroughly, place a small piece of screen over the drainage hole; this will keep the soil from falling out the bottom and will allow water to drain properly. A doubled-up piece of paper towel or newspaper can also work in a pinch, though these will break down over time.
Prepare your plant. Remove the aloe vera plant from its current pot and brush away any excess dirt from the roots, being careful not to damage the roots.
If your plant has any pups, remove them now. (See the “Care” section of this page for instructions on removing and potting pups.)
If your plant has a very long, spindly stem that won’t fit in the pot, it is possible to trim the stem off partially. Note that this is risky and could kill the plant. To trim the stem: Cut off part of the stem, leaving as much as possible on the plant. Next, take the bare plant and place it in a warm area that gets indirect light. After several days, a callous will form over the wound. At this point, continue with the repotting instructions below.
Plant your plant. Fill the pot about a third of the way with a well-draining potting mix, then place your plant in the soil. Continue filling in soil around the plant, bearing in mind that you should leave at least ¾ of an inch of space between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot. The bottom leaves of the aloe plant should rest just above the soil, too. Do not water after planting.
Ignore your plant (temporarily). After you’ve placed your aloe in its new pot, don’t water it for at least a week. This will decrease the chance of inducing rot and give the plant time to put out new roots. Until the plant seems to be rooted and happy, keep it in a warm place that receives bright but indirect light.
CARE
HOW TO CARE FOR AN ALOE VERA PLANT
Lighting: Place in bright, indirect sunlight or artificial light. A western or southern window is ideal. Aloe that are kept in low light often grow leggy.
Temperature: Aloe vera do best in temperatures between 55 and 80°F (13 and 27°C). The temperatures of most homes and apartments are ideal. From May to September, you can bring your plant outdoors without any problems, but do bring it back inside in the evening if nights are cold.
Fertilizing: Fertilize sparingly (no more than once a month), and only in the spring and summer with a balanced houseplant formula mixed at ½ strength.
Repotting: Repot when root bound, following the instructions given in “Planting,” above.
WATERING ALOE VERA
Watering is the most difficult part of keeping aloe vera healthy, but it’s certainly not rocket science! The aloe is a succulent plant that’s accustomed to arid environments, but its thick leaves still need sufficient water nonetheless.
Water aloe vera plants deeply, but infrequently. In other words, the soil should feel moist after watering, but should be allowed to dry out to some extent before you water again. If the soil stays overly wet, the plant’s roots can rot.
To ensure that you’re not overwatering your plant, allow the top third of potting soil to dry out between waterings. For example, if your plant is kept in 6 inches of potting soil, allow the top 2 inches to dry out before watering again. (Use your finger to test the dryness of the soil.)
Generally speaking, plan to water your aloe plant about every 2-3 weeks in the spring and summer and even more sparingly during the fall and winter. One rule of thumb for fall and winter watering is to roughly double the amount of time between waterings (as compared to your summer watering schedule). In other words, if you water every two weeks in summer, water every four weeks in winter.
When watering, some excess water may run out the bottom of the pot. Let the pot sit in this water so that the soil absorbs as much as possible. Wait 10-15 minutes, then dump any remaining water.
REMOVING & REPLANTING ALOE VERA OFFSETS (PUPS)
Mature aloe vera plants often produce offsets—also known as plantlets, pups, or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant (a clone of the mother plant, technically).
Find where the offsets are attached to the mother plant and separate them using pruning shears, scissors, or a sharp knife. Leave at least an inch of stem on the offset.
Allow the offsets to sit out of soil for several days; this lets the offset form a callous over the cut, which helps to protect it from rot. Keep the offsets in a warm location with indirect light during this time.
Once the offsets have formed callouses, pot them in a standard succulent potting mix. The soil should be well-draining.
Put the newly-potted pups in a sunny location. Wait at least a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
HOW TO GET YOUR ALOE VERA TO FLOWER
Mature aloe vera plants occasionally produce a tall flower spike—called an inflorescence—from which dozens of tubular yellow or red blossoms appear. This certainly adds another level of interest to the already lovely aloe!
Unfortunately, a bloom is rarely achievable with aloes that are kept as houseplants, since the plant requires nearly ideal conditions to produce flowers: lots of light, sufficient water, and the right temperature range. Due to these requirements (mainly lighting), aloe flowers are usually only seen on plants grown outdoors year-round in warm climates. 
To give your aloe the best shot at flowering:
Provide it with as much light as possible, especially during spring and summer. Aloes can be kept outdoors in full sun during the summer, when temperatures are above 70°F (21°C). If nighttime temps threaten to drop below 60°F (16°C), bring the aloe inside.
Note: Don’t move your aloe from indoors to full sun right away; it needs time to adjust to the intense light or it may sunburn. Allow it to sit in partial shade for about a week before moving it to a brighter location.
Make sure the plant is getting the right amount of water—enough to keep it from drying out completely, but not enough to drown it! If the plant’s being kept outdoors, make sure that it’s not getting consistently soaked by summer rains.
Give your aloe a proper dormancy period in the fall and winter. Aloe tend to bloom in late winter or early spring, so giving them a period of rest consisting of less frequent watering and cooler temperatures may encourage them to flower.
Don’t be surprised if it still doesn’t flower. Despite our best efforts, indoor conditions just aren’t ideal for most aloes, so don’t be surprised if yours simply refuses to bloom!
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are most susceptible to the usual indoor plant pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Common diseases include:  Root rot, Soft rot, Fungal stem rot, Leaf rot,Avoid overwatering to keep these conditions from developing or worsening.
HARVEST/STORAGE
ALOE VERA GEL
To make use of the aloe vera plant’s soothing properties, remove a mature leaf from the plant and cut it lengthwise. Squeeze the gel out of the leaf and apply it to your burn, or simply lay the opened leaf gel-side–down on top of the affected area. Learn more about aloe vera’s healing properties.
Do not ingest the gel, as it can cause nausea and other unpleasant symptoms.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Especially attractive Aloe include:
Tiger or Partridge-Breasted Aloe (Aloe variegata) – A compact aloe characterized by short, smooth leaves with uneven white stripes.
Lace Aloe (Aloe aristata) – A small plant with white-spotted, finely sawtoothed leaves.
Blue Aloe (Aloe glauca) – A larger aloe species with silver-blue leaves.
WIT & WISDOM
Aloe vera will decorate a kitchen shelf with quiet grace while doing double duty as a self-regenerating first-aid kit. Read more about the natural health benefits of aloe vera.
One of aloe’s most famous uses is to soothe sunburnt skin, and it can be also used for cold sores.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/aloe-vera 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
Answer: Red Riding Hood

image from hdwalle.com

     ​Feb. 16, 2021
Larry and I are wondering how everyone is doing with another day of below zero weather.  Sounds like it will warm up which will be great.  Also wondering about the greenhouses in Southern United states with this really cold temperature we are having.  I know that the greenhouses in Texas at this time of year are starting to get set up to sell plants.  Our thoughts and prayers go out to them what it must be like.  Hope all is ok????
Our tulips will be a few weeks yet from coming up, but here is the care of them when they do and also so interesting facts about tulips.  Spring will come I promise.
HOW TO PLANT, GROW, AND CARE FOR TULIPS  By Catherine Boeckmann
Long live the tulip! This brightly colored jewel brightens our days in early spring. We truly look forward to seeing those blue-green leaves start to emerge as the Earth awakens from its winter sleep! Here are our tips on how to plant and care for tulips.
Tulips normally begin emerging from the ground in late winter or early spring. If mild winter weather causes premature growth, the danger is not as great as it may seem. Tulips (and daffodils) have braved these cold temperatures before and are quite tolerant. If winter temperatures return, it may delay growth. The snow is helpful, discouraging additional growth and protecting the foliage from extreme cold.
Plant in the Fall for Spring Blooms
Tulip bulbs are planted in the autumn before the ground freezes. By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors and most are excellent for use as cut flowers, too.
Tulip flowers are usually cup-shaped with three petals and three sepals. There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders. The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet. One tulip grows on each stem, with two to six broad leaves per plant.
ARE TULIPS ANNUAL OR PERENNIAL BULBS?
Although tulips are a perennial from a botanical perspective, many centuries of hybridizing means that the bulb’s ability to come back year after year has weakened. Therefore, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in the western mountain region of the U.S. come closest to this climate, and may have more success perennializing their tulips.
HOW TO GROW TULIPS
If it rains weekly, do not water. However, if there is a dry spell and it does not rain, you should water the bulbs weekly until the ground freezes.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed unless in a drought. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or any other rough material to the soil to foster swift drainage.
Apply compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
In the spring, when leaves emerge, feed your tulip the same bulb food or bone meal which you used at planting time. Water well.
Deadhead tulips as soon as they go by, but do not remove the leaves!
Allow the leaves to remain on the plants for about 6 weeks after flowering. The tulips need their foliage to gather energy for next year’s blooms! After the foliage turns yellow and dies back, it can be pruned off.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold,Slugs,Snails,Aphids,Nematodes,,Bulb rot,Squirrels, rabbits, mice, and voles are especially fond of tulip bulbs.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Tulip flowers may be single, double, ruffled, fringed, or lily-shaped, depending on the variety.
Wild—or “Species”—tulips are small in size, ranging in height from 3 to 8 inches. They are tougher than hybrids. They also bloom in the South and look best when planted as a carpet of color. One of our favorites is ‘Lilac Wonder’.
Triumph hybrids are the classic single, cup-shape tulip that make up the largest grouping of tulip types. Top varieties:
‘Cracker tulip’ is a midspring bloomer with purple, pink, and lilac petals.
‘Ile de France’ is a midseason bloomer, with its intensely red blooms on stems to 20 inches tall.
‘Calgary’ is a midspring bloomer with snowy-white petals and blue-green foliage.
Though tulips tend be planted as annuals, the Darwin Hybrid tulips are known to act as perennials, blooming for several years.
There are so many beautiful varieties of tulips. Explore catalogs and experiment in your garden!
WIT & WISDOM
Did you know: If you dig up a tulip bulb in midsummer, it’s not the same bulb you planted last fall. It’s her daughter. Even while the tulip is blossoming, the bulb is dividing for the next generation.
To get the longest vase life, cut tulip stems diagonally, then wrap the upper two-thirds of the flowers in a funnel of newspaper and stand them in cool water for an hour or two. Then, recut the stems and the tulips will last at least a week.
In 17th-century Holland, the new tulip was such the rage and fashion that a handful of bulbs was worth about $44,000.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/tulips
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  641-903-9365