image from pinterest 

     ​     IT is cold out this morning.  4 degrees but we do have a clear, blue sky so seeing the sun is good.  How about you?  Yesterday’s wind was hard to get around and looks like today it is calmer.  The article I am posting I have talked about one of the new plants all ready. But the vegetables look interesting.  I will see if I can get those.  That is what I am doing now, working on the orders and planting books for this spring.  I might clean out a cupboard today.  I know many of you have been doing that since March while you are home, but I haven’t been home that long and had lots of other things to do.  So will try to do some of that now.  I walk over and see Larry at the shop several times a day, feed my cats and walk to the mailbox.  That is my time out of the house.  I usually been leaving town once a week to get groceries.  Church is opened again, so will have that and Sunday School on Sunday.  I know many of you are going to work and limiting time out.  That is why gardening was being done so much this last season.  What do you think this next season will be?  Are you planning on gardening?  I promise you spring will come and here are some new plants to try. 
NEW AND NOTABLE PLANTS FOR 2021By Robin Sweetser
What’s new in the garden for 2021? Here are some suggestions of new and notable plants—both vegetables and flowers!  If you haven’t sent your seed order yet, here are a few new plants to add to your list.
These were some suggestions I gleaned from a recent panel discussion on new varieties for home gardeners:
DISEASE-RESISTANT BASIL
If downy mildew has been decimating your basil, look at the new downy mildew resistant basils in the Prospera series.
‘Prospera Compact’ is great for container growing, getting only 16 to 18 inches tall. Its dark green glossy leaves have that traditional Genovese taste and smell that we pesto lovers crave.
‘Prospera Italian Large Leaf’ produces lots of 4 inch long leaves on a 24 to 30 inch tall plant. The leaves are great wrapped around cheese for an appetizer, alongside mozzarella and tomatoes in a Caprese salad, or as a flavorful substitute for lettuce in a sandwich.
Both mature in 74 days and are slow to bolt but even if they do flower, just pinch off the blossoms and eat them too!
APHID-RESISTANT BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Do you love Brussels sprouts but have a problem with aphids camping out in the baby sprouts and ruining them?
Try ‘Divino’ which has tightly wrapped leaves making the developing sprouts less susceptible to insect damage. The tall stalks produce large, well-spaced, dark green sprouts in 105 days.
If you’d rather have earlier, huge sprouts on a more compact plant, try ‘Speedia’. Considered a half-tall Brussel it gets only 30 to 36 inches tall and matures in 98 days.
When you’re ready to plant, see the Almanac’s Brussels Sprouts Growing Guide!
SLOW-TO-BOLT SPINACH
Spinach is a spring or fall vegetable crop. It often grows quickly but one issue is that it will “bolt” (flower) once daylight increases over 14 hours. So, when growing spinach, the trick lies in making it last as long as possible, especially in the spring, when lengthening days shorten its life.
‘Equinox’ spinach is a fast-growing variety which is slow to bolt, making it perfect for spring or fall planting. Mature in only 29 days, it has dark green, savoyed leaves on tall stems, and can be harvested at baby leaf or full size.
When you’re ready to plant, see the Almanac’s Spinach Growing Guide!
TOMATO THAT TASTES LIKE AN HEIRLOOM YET DISEASE-RESISTANT
Heirloom tomatoes are known for their rich taste and meaty texture but often heirlooms are susceptible to disease and blight. However, Johnny’s Seeds in partnership with NCSU, has developed an organic heirloom that still delivers good yield.
‘Abigail’ tomato has been around for a few years but is worth a try if you are looking for an heirloom-type pink tomato that has high disease tolerance and is resistant to the dreaded late blight. Its one pound fruits are meaty and have all the flavor of an heirloom. They mature in 75 days on tall indeterminate plants.
When you’re ready to plant, see the Almanac’s Tomato Growing Guide!
THORN-LESS EGGPLANT
Many eggplant varieties have small prickly thorns, requiring caution and gloves when harvesting.
If you are tired of getting stabbed while trying to pick your eggplants, give ‘Gaudi’ a try. The dark purple, tear-drop shaped fruits have a totally thornless green calyx. The tasty 8-inch long fruits are ready to pick in about 75 days. I feel an eggplant parm coming on!
When you’re ready to plant, see our Eggplant Growing Guide!
NEW SHALLOT VARIETIES
The All-America Selections for 2021 are out and they have a few new varieties for you to consider:
‘Creme Brulee’ is the first shallot to be an AAS winner. It is a French banana echalion called a “cuisse de poulet” or chicken thigh due to its 4 to 5 inch long, cylindrical shape and peachy pink skin. (More like a drumstick than a thigh!) We grew a similar type last year called ‘Zebrune’ which did pretty well so I will probably give this one a try if I can find the seeds. They are already sold out at Johnny’s.
QUICK AND ZIPPY PEPPERS FOR POTS
Are you a fan of jalapeno peppers? Thanks to their compact habit, they are perfect for growing in containers and hanging baskets.
Pepper ‘Pot-a-peno’ is a compact 12 to 15 inch tall plant especially made for pots because of the way the fruit hangs down, making it easy to harvest without damaging the appearance or productivity of the plant. A dense foliage canopy makes for an attractive addition to your patio or balcony garden. It’s also earlier to mature than other jalapenos giving you a head start on your garden’s harvest.
It bears about 35 to 50, 3 to 4 inch long, mildly hot jalapeno-type peppers per plant, starting in about 60 days from transplanting. Hang one of these right outside the kitchen door and you’ll always have a bit of heat at hand.
THE PERFECT ACORN SQUASH
Acorn squash lovers are really going to like the sweet nutty flavor of ‘Goldilocks’. Its bright orange, one pound fruits are a perfect side dish for one or two. The 30-inch tall, bushy plants spread 4 to 5 feet and will start to bear in 85 days from seed producing about 10 fruits per plant! Disease-tolerant, vigorous, and high yield, this squash is just right! No curing is needed and they last 2 to 3 months in storage. The bright orange fruits with uniform shape and color double as an ornamental decoration.
STUNNING NEW FLOWERS TO TRY
Zinnias are a colorful annual flower, and the “Profusion” variety has been the “go to” zinnia for disease resistance. So, we were happy to see that there is a new color combo we can grow: ‘Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor.’ Check out this All-American Gold Medal Winner!
‘Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor’ is a double flowering, 2 1/2 inch wide zinnia with yellow petals and a dark red central eye! The 8 to 14-inch tall, mounded plants are covered with blossoms all season long. They are great for edging and hanging baskets.
This sweet zinnia starts the season with a bold vibrant red center ring surrounded by golden-yellow outer petals. As the season progresses, the aging flowers morph into soft, beautiful shades of apricot, salmon, and dusty rose to bring a plethora of color to the garden, all from one variety!
COLD- AND HEAT-TOLERANT SHATA DAISIES
Leucanthemums, also known as Shasta Daisies, are used for both cut flowers and garden highlights while also providing food and habitat for many kinds of pollinators.
Who needs another daisy you ask? Well this one is a winner! Leucanthemum ‘Sweet Daisy Birdy’ is perennial in zones 3 to 10, surviving Canadian winter and hot Texas summers. A Shasta daisy, it has 5 inch wide flowers on 18 to 24 inch tall plants and is pollinator friendly. Available only as a plant.
Enjoy this beauty in the garden as a medium-height bright spot (great for moonlight gardens) that will provide years of beauty with very little maintenance other than deadheading spent blooms if desired, but not necessary.
These are just a few of the new things that have caught my attention but I am sure there are even more out there. We all have our tried-and-true favorites but It is fun to try a few new things every year. Who knows, they might just become your future favorites!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/new-and-notable-plants-2021
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365

taken from HollandBfarms.com

          Article today is about how long your garden seeds last.  Many of us save seeds that we didn’t plant from last year.  Hopefully this will give you some information about that.  The temperature at 2:30 PM is still at 34 degrees but we do have wind so it feels colder.  Getting more clouds and tonight’s low will be 4 degrees with an arctic cold front moving thru.  Stay warm. 
How long do garden seeds last? How do you tell if your old seeds are still good? Let’s find out!
Wintertime is the season when these questions matter. The gorgeous seed catalogs arrive in the mail, tempting you with beautiful photographs.
But before you go crazy, it’s time to inventory your leftover seeds to avoid duplication and determine viability.
HOW LONG DO SEEDS LAST?
Some seeds have a longer life expectancy than others. Most last for a couple of years if stored in a dry, cool place.
I have learned from experience that onion seeds are not much good after the first year, but tomato, cucumber, and melon seeds can last 5 years or more.
Brassicas and squash seeds are good for 4 to 5 years.
Parsley, sweet corn, leeks, parsnips, shallots, and chives require fresh seeds every year.
Seeds are living things and their viability is affected greatly by the way they are stored. Most experts agree on dark, cool, and dry conditions as being the best. We keep some of our seeds in the refrigerator, but most are in open boxes in the dining room—probably not the best location.
HOW TO TELL IF YOUR SEEDS ARE STILL GOOD
If I have a question about the viability of some seeds—such as those beans that someone gave me back
This is as easy as placing ten seeds on a damp paper towel, folding it up, and placing it in a plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm spot and check after a week or so to see if any of the seeds have sprouted.
If 2 out of 10 germinate, that means a germination rate of about 20%—not too good, so I would either plant more of them than usual or buy fresh seeds altogether.
If 8 out of 10 germinate, that means 80%—not bad at all, and I can likely get away with using them for another season.
Once you have determined what you need, you can shop with a clear plan in mind and be less likely to overbuy.
 Have fun looking through this year’s seed catalogs and dreaming of your best garden ever. Summer is just a page away in a seed catalog! Speaking of which, check out our list of free garden catalogs and sites.
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-long-do-seeds-last
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image from blogspot.com

​      I love this article and I got to hear this writer at a   herbaceous perennial workshop at Iowa State in the 90’s.    Allan Armitage was one of the speakers.  He did such a fun job of introducing new perennials in the garden.  SO much information to take in.   I went as it was recommended by the Men’s Garden Club which I just had joined.  It was very well attended and very well done.  Iowa State Extension sponsored it.  Those were the days.  So enjoy the article about Monarda or beebalm.  It is the perennial of the year. 
Just Try It!
Spend the time. Learn by doing. Make mistakes.  Take chances.   ~Teresa Bunn
Grow what you enjoy. That may seem simplistic, but I have many conversations with home gardeners. 
I suppose one has to brain dead or living in a cave to not realize that the year 2020 was not quite normal. What with politics, storms, and a pandemic, it is not surprising, given the shutdowns and lockdowns, that we are exhausted and are raising the white flag of surrender. We crave for visits with grandchildren and we hunger for opportunities to get out and see friends. These times have resulted in a persistent feeling that there was little to look forward to. I too have feelings of melancholy and fear; however, I am one of the lucky ones. I am a gardener!
As a gardener, my entire DNA looks forward to the future. I have something to look forward to every time I plant a bulb, an annual, a perennial, or a tree. I have something to look forward to every time I see a catalog or a package of seeds. If gardeners can be defined by one characteristic, it is their absolute belief that things will get better. Even newer gardeners like my neighbors and daughters are asking questions about what they can plant next. Who knew that 2020 would see more millennials get to the garden than ever before and that 2020 would turn out to be such a bumper year for retailers, producers, and online sales of vegetables and ornamentals? Gardening provides hope!
There are so many parts of this thing we call gardening that fascinate me, and I love sharing my enthusiasm and knowledge with others. There is so much fun out waiting there in the garden patch, so many plants with stories, each raising their branches saying “Talk about me, talk about me” and yes, for those who want to learn, so much to discover!
Lately, I have been fascinated by some of the native plants in my garden. One that I am thinking about as I write this is an old-fashioned plant that is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Botanists know it as Monarda, some of you know it as beebalm. National Garden Bureau has declared 2021 to be the Year of the Monarda…YAY! Something to look forward to!
This native plant was named for Nicholas Monardes, a physician from Seville who wrote about new world plants in the publication Joyfull Newse out of the newe founde Worlde in 1577. While that is interesting, the fact that the plant was thought to soothe stings and bites from various insects resulted in that common name of beebalm. A balm for bee stings, right in our own gardens, who knew?
However, this red-flowered pasture species was also found to be useful for something very much in demand by the settlers of the 1700s. With the boycott of tea from England in the 1770s (remember that famous party of 1773), a substitute was badly needed. As mentioned in the NGB “Year of the Monarda” article, Monarda leaves had been used as a tea in the Oswego watershed area of upstate New York for many years, and as poor a substitute as it was, it became rather common and took on the name of Oswego tea.  I enjoy learning where names come from, and this is but one example of a story or two just waiting to be shared.
Try A New Monarda Variety
Monarda is a handsome plant in its native habitat, and when brought into the garden is still quite lovely, although it can be somewhat rangy and has flowers only available in red. Plant breeders have worked on improving vigor, compactness, and flower power and providing additional colors. Take a look at all the monarda photos that the breeders provided for the “Year of the Monarda” photo library.
Personally, I still love the tall, exquisite ‘Gardenview Scarlet’ and ‘Raspberry Wine’, but if they are a little rangy, try the more compact forms like ‘Balmy’ (in pink, purple, or rose) and ‘Bee Happy’. While gardeners have more choices than ever, two problems can occur. Powdery mildew is still an issue so try to buy the resistant varieties. Monarda can also be quite aggressive in the garden; this is not necessarily a bad thing but you may soon be sharing more than stories with your gardening friends.
Before I leave you, I would be doing a great disservice if I didn’t mention the oft-ignored annual form lemon balm, Monarda citriodora. I forget all about it, but then I come across some and I must have it.
Written By: Allan Armitage  Author, Garden Courses, and Garden Plants App
Taken from https://ngb.org/2021/01/14/thank-goodness-monarda/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone  641-903-9365

image from es.wikipedic.org

     ​     Wow wind has come up and with the snow we had this morning, there is blowing snow across the road almost a ground blizzard.  No fun so be safe.  I am posting a picture and see if you can guess what it is.  I will have the answer down on the page of this writing.  Give me your answer before you look.  Do you know what this plant is?  I love this plant.  It loves hot and dry.  It is open its blooms during th sunlight but closes them up at night and when it is cloudy out.  I used to know what that term was called and I don’t remember.  I GOOGLE it and doesn’t make sense the word they used.  So another question for you to help me with.  What is the term for the plants that open their bloom during the daytime and close the blooms at night?  This can be a perennial and also I sell them as an annual.  Put this on your garden list for this year. 
 
So did you know this plant bloom?  Here is the information on it. 
The gazania flower, named after the 15th-century Greek-Italian scholar Theodorus of Gaza, is a warm weather perennial native to South Africa that is usually grown as an annual. It is a low-maintenance flower that is excellent for brightening up hard-to-landscape spaces. The look-at-me color spectrum available in gazanias may not blend into the look of a Victorian cottage garden, but butterflies will flock to these prolific summer bloomers.
Gazania flowers are a member of the daisy family Asteraceae, genus Gazania. Also known as the treasure flower, gazanias will bounce back from light frosts. When grown in zones 9 to 11, they may perform as perennials.
How to Grow Gazanias
Gazania flowers are ideal for any gardener who is looking for a high-impact bloom that doesn't require much maintenance. Gazania plants don’t mind the heat that radiates off the pavement, so you can include them in your sidewalk garden or alongside your driveway.
Gazania is easy to grow to a fault: This ornamental is considered weedy in some parts of Southern California and Australia. Plant young gazania plants about a foot apart, allowing them to reach their eventual spread of 10 inches without the crowding that promotes mildew. Deadhead gazania flowers to extend the blooming time of the plants.
Gazanias are largely trouble-free, although overly moist soils can lead to root and stem rot. Leaf spot and powdery mildew can be a problem in humid environments, and mealybugs sometimes infest the plants.
Light
Gazania flowers thrive in full sun. Morning or afternoon shade may cause the flowers to stay closed for a portion of the day and may cause the plants to grow lanky, exceeding their normal height of 6 to 10 inches.
Soil
Gazanias do best in sandy, well-draining soil but will tolerate many soil types and conditions.
Water
The leathery foliage of gazania plants is a clue to the high drought tolerance of this flower. Let the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can lead to root rot and promote fungal diseases.
Temperature and Humidity
Gazanias like hot, dry conditions and work well with similarly adapted flowers, such as vinca, cosmos, verbena, or globe amaranth.
Fertilizer
In their native habitat of the rocky cliffs of South Africa, gazanias grow in soils of low fertility. Compost and supplemental fertilizer aren’t necessary.
Potting and Repotting
Gazania plants are adaptable enough to overwinter indoors so you won’t need to purchase new plants or seeds for the next growing season. You can dig up the plant at autumn's end while they are still in bloom, bringing the beauty of the outdoors inside. However, the plant won't be able to maintain its flower output indoors, so cut the plant back and keep it in a cool, sunny window. Water when the soil surface is dry. Check the plants regularly for pests like mealybugs that may proliferate on indoor specimens.
Growing in Containers
Gazanias shine in containers on your deck or patio, where they will attract butterflies for up-close observation. If desired, plant gazanias at the edge of the pot so their trailing habit softens the container's edges. Their preference for sharply drained soil makes them a natural choice for a rock garden, either in a container or on the ground. If your soil is heavy, plant your gazanias in containers with a companion planting of lantana, which has similar growing conditions and complementary colors.
Growing From Seeds
If you grow your gazania flowers from seed, start them indoors about 10 weeks before the last frost in your area. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil and keep them moist throughout the germination and transplant stage. Harden them off and set them outdoors two weeks after the average last frost.
If you prefer no-fuss seed starting, try sowing gazania seeds directly in the garden. After all danger of frost has passed, sprinkle the seeds in an area of raked soil. Scatter handfuls of soil to cover the seeds, as darkness helps to trigger germination.
Propagating Gazanias
Although normally grown from commercial seeds or nursery seedlings, it is possible to propagate gazanias by taking basal cuttings in fall and overwintering them indoors. Take several cuttings of areas around the base of the plant where new growth is forming (each with three to five shoots), and plant them in pots filled with good-quality potting soil. Keep the basal cuttings growing indoors in a bright location, then transplant outdoors in spring.
Varieties of Gazania
The daisy-like flowers of gazania come in a variety of hot hues on the color wheel— red, orange, and yellow. Many flowers feature solids and horizontal or vertical variegation on petals, sometimes with splashes of white and bright pink.
Gardeners who live in areas with short growing seasons should try gazanias from the Chansonette series, which flower very early.
Love the classic look of white flower gardens? The Creamsicle gazania cultivar sports ivory petals with a simple bronze center disk.
Another early performer is the Daybreak series, which yields large flowers quickly from seed in sunset colors or stripes.
Gardeners who work long daytime hours will appreciate that the paprika petals of Sunbather's Sunset stay open into the evening, rather than shutting up tight like most varieties do at twilight.
The monochromatic gold petals and disks of Sundrop gazanias will bring a ray of sunshine to any flower garden.
Some of the brightest gazania flowers grow in the Tiger Stripe Mix, which produce red or hot pink stripes on white or gold petals.
Kiss Bronze Star gazanias are a riot of color when they unfurl two-tone petals of orange and gold.
Get double the beauty when you plant Talent Mix, which has silver foliage that contrasts vividly against bright flowers.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/gazania-flowers-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

image from grinningplant.com 

     Interesting article about what NOT to do in the landscape.  I will post a couple of these and then wait and post a couple more.  LOTS to read.  Cooler out this morning.  Temperature at 17 degrees a high of 22 and then it will get colder.  We have a light dusting of snow. So the ground is white.  We don’t have to go very far south, and the grass is showing with less snow.  The weatherman said no sun coming out but looks like we might get for a little while.  Makes us all feel better when we have sunshine.  Stay safe and stay positive. 
 
GARDENING  LANDSCAPING
10 Landscaping Myths Busted
Have You Fallen Prey to Any of These Misguided Beliefs?  Written by David Beaulieu
These two trees are the same type (Bradford pear) and growing right next to each other, yet one has fall foliage and the other doesn't.  David Beaulieu
Are landscaping myths harmless? Well, that really depends on what category they fall into. That is, we can speak broadly of two different classes of misguided notions:
Those of a practical nature
Those of an aesthetic nature
Category #2 deals in the subjective realm, so it would not be right to term any landscaping myths of this sort "harmful." But when it comes to Category #1 (and it is mainly with this class that the present article deals), you can, in fact, do quite a bit of harm in some cases if you allow yourself to be guided by these misguided notions. So lest you fall prey to any of these mistaken beliefs, let's do some myth busting, shall we?
The More Sunlight a Plant Receives in Cold Climates, the Better
Why this is a landscaping myth:
Firstly, the "all" in the above statement is highly problematic. Some plants, such as peonies, actually have what is called a "chilling requirement," so you do not want them to get overly warm in winter.
Then there is the phenomenon of what is termed "winter burn," a type of foliar damage suffered by evergreen shrubs, such as arborvitae. It is not the cold that causes this type of damage, rather, it is excessive sun and wind during the winter.
My Tree Looks Like It's Dying, So I'll Fertilize It to Try to Put It Back on the Right Track
What is wrong with this line of reasoning:
If a tree is all of a sudden looking poorly (for example, it has brown leaves when it should have green foliage), the following are examples of possible causes that you should be exploring:
It has not been irrigated properly.
It has suffered mechanical damage.
It has been attacked by a pest or by a disease.
You will not solve any such problems by fertilizing the specimen in question.
Landscaping With Native Plants a Trend, So I'll let Wild Plants Grow
Guess again!
"Native plant" and "wild plant" are not synonymous. In the Western Hemisphere, the former is usually defined as a plant that was here in pre-Columbian times. Many plants that grow in the wild in the Western Hemisphere, such as dame's rocket (Hesperis matronalis), do not meet this criterion. They may have naturalized, but that does not make them native plants. Indeed, some are among the worst invasive plants; as such, they are on the "enemies list" of most native-plant enthusiasts.
Cutting the Grass as Short as Possible When Mowing Means I Won't Have to Do It Again for a While
Why this reasoning involves a landscaping myth:
There is more that's "short" in this statement than just a shortcut and short grass: it is also short-sighted. In the long run, mowing in this manner will not decrease, but increase the amount of care you have to put into your lawn. Why? Because it will harm your lawn, then you will have to put extra time, energy and money into repairing it. Learning how high to cut your grass is a critically important step in your lawn-care education.
You Have to Get All Your Planting Done in Spring or Wait Another Year
Here is what is incorrect about this:
At least subscribing to this landscaping myth will not cause any harm, but thinking this way does impose an unnecessary restriction on you, thereby diminishing the pleasure you can take in your landscaping. It is also an understandable misconception, in the sense that, indeed, planting in the summer's heat has been the death knell of many a plant.
But that still leaves fall. Late autumn is, in fact, a good time to plant trees.
​Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/landscaping-myths-busted-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

image from gurneys.com

​       We got SNOW.  Larry thought we had 5 inches.  He is out moving it all ready.  If we garden, we do love the nature it brings.  Butterflies are one of those insects that we love to see.  So you want to help the Monarch Butterflies, what should I plant?  Here is a plant you should have in your garden.  Fun to look for the caterpillars when they hatch out. 
BEST MILKWEED VARIETIES FOR MONARCH BUTTERFLIES  By Robin Sweetser
Monarch butterfly populations have declined by a shocking 90% over the past 20 years! One thing we can do is to plant native milkweed. It not only provides nectar for the adult butterflies, but also it is the only plant they will lay their eggs on. Learn more about which milkweed varieties are best for Monarchs!
THE MISSING MONARCHS
What has happened to our Monarch butterflies? Many factors have contributed to this horrific loss, including climate change, weather extremes, loss of winter habitat in Mexico, and widespread use of pesticides. While these are problems that will take years to change, one thing we can do in our own yards today is use less or no chemicals. A very easy thing we can do is to plant milkweed!
Not only will you help these valuable pollinators, but you’ll treasure the presence of fluttering friends in the garden!
Milkweed is the only food Monarch “babies” eat! It’s that simple. When the caterpillars hatch out, they can start feeding immediately on the milkweed leaves. Toxins in the plant make the adult Monarchs and their larvae taste bitter to predators, protecting them from hungry birds. It is such an effective deterrent that other butterflies, such as the similarly-colored Viceroy, are also avoided by predators just in case they are bitter too. If you decide to grow milkweed in your yard, be aware that the cardiac glycosides contained in the plants are toxic to pets and people also.
MILKWEED VARIETIES
The milkweed genus (Asclepias) is fairly large, with 73 species native to the US and over 100 in North America. They support 12 species of butterflies and moths, including the Monarch. Choose ones that are native to your region and are right for your situation. Here are a few to consider; they have wide native ranges and are frequently available as seeds or plants:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a hardy perennial that will thrive almost anywhere in the US, especially east of the Rockies and into Canada. It needs sun, reaches 2 to 6 feet tall with wide, gray-green, velvety leaves, and is an aggressive grower. Don’t plant this in your flowerbed or it will take over. It has a wide-spreading root system and needs an area all its own, where it can really stretch out. It has pale purple-pink flowers that are very fragrant and attract many pollinators in addition to Monarchs.
Butterfly weed (A. tuberosa) is less aggressive than its common cousin, growing only 1 to 2-1/2 feet tall. It is commonly grown in gardens, adapts well to moist or dry soil, and its orange flowers are very showy. It likes full sun and is hardy in Zones 3 to 9.
Swamp milkweed (A. incarnata) is also more well-behaved than common milkweed, forming clumps rather than spreading out. It grows 2 to 4 feet tall, has deep rose-pink flowers, and is shade tolerant. It will grow in wet soil near lakesides or damp marshlands, but also grows well in average garden soil and is hardy in Zones 3-9.
Showy milkweed (A. speciosa) is native from west of the Mississippi into California and north to Canada. It has pastel pink flowers on 2- to 4-foot tall plants. It is drought tolerant, making it a good plant for arid plains and prairie-lands, though it grows well in moist garden soils as well. It needs full sun and is hardy in Zones 3-9.
TWO NO-GROWS
There are some milkweeds that are not beneficial to Monarchs. Gardeners in southern states should avoid planting tropical milkweed (A. curassavica). It is a beautiful plant with bright yellow/red/orange flowers, but it hosts a parasite that infects the caterpillars and weakens the butterflies when they emerge from their chrysalis. Since the plants don’t die back until late into winter, the Monarchs stay there until it is too late to make their yearly trip to Mexico. Learn more about Monarch butterfly migration.
Another no-grow is climbing milkweed (Cynachum nigrum), also called black swallow-wort. It is an incredibly invasive twining weed in the milkweed family. If a Monarch lays her eggs on it, those caterpillars won’t grow large enough to turn into butterflies. It is a tough one to get rid of, since it spreads by wind-blown seeds and has a large root crown and deep roots.
BECOMING A WAY STATION
Planting milkweed and other native wildflowers, especially late season nectar plants such as goldenrod and asters, will add to the survival chance of visiting monarchs and other pollinators by acting as an energy source and a shelter for adults, as well as host plants for larvae.
You can create a Monarch Way Station in your backyard in a 100 sq. ft. sunny space with well-drained soil. Plant at least 10 plants of two or more flower species native to your region that flower at different times, including some milkweed. Once it is up and growing, register it at MonarchWatch.org. Over 31,000 gardeners across the country have done it so far!
One reader said, “Think of it as an Airbnb for butterflies!”
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/best-milkweed-varieties-monarch-butterflies
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from 1000flowers.com

image from gardeners.com 

      ​Still at 4:00 PM having a little rain, but no snow yet.  Sounds like tonight into tomorrow with wind we will have a winter blizzard. Tracking slower than they thought.  Winter blizzard warning for us starting at 6 PM till 6 PM Friday.  6 to 9 inches of snow for north central Iowa and the wind will be blowing.  Stay safe everyone. 
HOW TO MAKE A TERRARIUM | GARDENS UNDER GLASS
WHICH PLANTS ARE BEST FOR TERRARIUMS?  By Robin Sweetser
Why not try your hand at creating a terrarium? These miniature gardens under glass have been experiencing a revival—and we can see why. It’s a mini ecosystem at work. An entire forest in a jar! Learn how to make a terrarium in five steps—to bring joy all winter long.
WHAT ARE TERRARIUMS?
Originally popularized during the Victorian era, terrariums have made a big comeback. A terrarium is a miniature ecosystem made of soil, rocks, and plants arranged in closed glass jar or container. They are most suitable for ferns and tropical plants. A closed terrarium creates its own atmosphere and needs little from the outside except light. Think of a terrarium as a mini greenhouse!
As well as being low-maintenance, a terrarium adds a pleasing houseplant container to your home all year long.
WHO INVENTED TERRARIUMS?
A London physician accidentally invented the first terrarium in the early 1800s. Dr. Nathaniel Ward placed a cocoon in a covered jar so that he could observe the emergence of a sphinx moth. In time, several plants sprang up from soil in the bottom of the jar, including a thriving fern. This surprised Ward because he had unsuccessfully tried to grow ferns in his yard and blamed the failure on polluted air from city smokestacks.
After his discovery, Ward constructed several fern containers, later to be called Wardian cases. These early terrariums quickly became popular, especially with the affluent, who had large, ornate cases made to display houseplants, miniature gardens, and woodland scenes.
HOW DO TERRARIUMS WORK?
A terrarium is a great way to observe how an ecosystem works! Moisture that condenses on the glass runs down to remoisten the soil. Then the plants draw moisture from the soil and evaporate it through their leaves, in a process known as transpiration. Water droplets form and drip down the sides of the container, returning to the soil. This process mimics nature’s rain cycle, and sustains plant life! The glass protects the plants from insects and diseases as well as from the dry air associated with many homes.
There are two types of terrariums:
The traditional “closed” terrarium is covered with a pane of glass. This is great for creating a humid environment. Excellent for ferns.
However, you can also create an “open” terrarium which is really more of a dry environment for succulents, cacti and other desert plants which need very little water (but a lot of sunlight).
The Glass Container
Use almost any clear glass container, such as an aquarium or big fish bowl, to construct a terrarium. Even a cookie jar, a giant brandy snifter, mason-jar, light bulb, or wide mouthed bottle will work! If you are using an old aquarium, test it for leaks first; they can be fixed with silicone sealant to make it watertight.
Of course, you can certainly purchase closed glass terrariums online as well as display cloches more reminiscent of Victoria style.
Just a hint: Planting is easier if you have chosen a wide mouthed container!
HOW TO MAKE A TERRARIUM IN 5 STEPS
Supplies
A clear container of your choice
Pebbles, small river stones, or expanded clay balls used in hydroponics.
Charcoal (activated charcoal, horticultural charcoal, or lump charcoal will all work as long as the product does not contain any additives)
Potting soil (choose a well-draining soil to prevent it from getting compacted and waterlogged)
Decor (wood, rocks, or other decorations)
Plants (more on this later!)
Planting tools: a spoon, long-handle tweezers, or even chopsticks can come in handy when planting in thin-mouthed containers
Instructions
Start by covering the bottom of the container with a 1-inch layer of pebbles or crushed stone. This drainage layer is used to keep the soil from becoming waterlogged and swampy.
Add chunks of charcoal to the stone or cover it with a ⅛-inch-deep layer of crushed charcoal to cover the pebbles. This helps with filtration and any odors.
Next, add 2 to 4 inches of sterilized potting soil on top of the charcoal, depending on the size of your container and the size of the plants.
Now you get to be creative and design your miniature landscape. If your container is large enough, the soil can be molded into hills and valleys to add interest; add rocks and small logs for a natural-looking setting. You could even add lakes, paths, statues, and driftwood.
Finally, it’s time to plant. Look for dwarf or low growing plants that all have the same requirements for light, humidity, water, and temperature. Combine different sizes, shapes, colors, and leaf textures to make things interesting. Select plants that don’t mind wet foliage, such as moss, ferns, or prayer plants. Plant a woodland scene, use flowering alpines, get carnivorous, or go totally tropical.    
Once the terrarium is planted, cover its top with a pane of glass. If the sides fog up from excess humidity, leave the top open a crack so that some of the moisture evaporates from the container. A sealed terrarium will go for months, even years, without needing water. Place your terrarium out of direct sunlight to avoid overheating; fluorescent lighting is ideal.
You will want to display your terrarium where it is sure to be noticed because it may just give the room—as well as your plants—a little atmosphere!
WHICH PLANTS GROW BEST IN TERRARIUMS?
Most houseplants are tropical and make ideal residents for a terrarium. Miniature ferns, peperomias, African violets, and some orchids are all good candidates. Many woodland plants and mosses are also right at home under glass.
The two most important factors to consider when choosing plants for terrariums are their mature size and their ability to tolerate moisture. Some plants that grow well in terrariums are:
Ajuga
Aluminum plant
Artillery plant (Pilea)
Baby’s tears
Bird’s nest sansevieria (for open terrariums only)
Bloodleaf (Iresine herbstii)
Bromeliads (young plants only)
Button fern
Carnivorous plants: Venus fly traps, sundews, butterworts, cobra lilies, and tropical pitcher plants are all carnivorous plants that like humidity. However, most non-tropical species need to experience a period of colder weather (dormancy) to thrive.
Chinese evergreen (young plants only)
Creeping fig
Earth star (Cryptanthus)
Flame violet (Episcia dianthiflora)
Mosses
Oxalis
Pellionia
Peperomia
Polka-dot plant (Hypoestes)
Rabbit’s foot fern
Small-leaf ivies
Spike moss (Selaginella)
Strawberry begonia
Swedish ivy
Variegated aloe (for open terrariums only)
Most nurseries offer a wide variety of “terrarium plants,” though these are more often than not just young plants that will eventually grow too large for your container. In general, look for plants that like a tropical climate and that grow in a creeping, vining, or clumping manner.
Since cacti and succulents can’t tolerate humid conditions, they are not good candidates for a closed terrarium. Save them for an open dish garden, which can be created in the same fashion as a closed terrarium—just be sure to use a succulent soil mix for good drainage!
TAKING CARE OF YOUR TERRARIUM
Once established, your terrarium will be very low maintenance.
Don’t plant too closely, allow some room for growth. Your terrarium won’t look instantly lush; plants need time to adjust and settle in.
Water after planting; soil should be damp but not soaked.
Place your terrarium where it will get bright light but not in direct sun, which will cook your plants. Artificial light is excellent.
Leave the terrarium open for a few days while the plant leaves dry off, then put on the cover and keep a close eye on the plants.
Excessive condensation, moldy plants, and limp yellow leaves are signs of overwatering. Open the cover and let your terrarium dry out a bit if that occurs.
No condensation and plants with wilted leaves are signs of underwatering. Check the soil and water lightly if it seems dry.
Leggy growth is a sign that your terrarium is not getting enough light.
It’s normal to see small insects crawling around in your terrarium after a while. Usually, these are springtails, which are beneficial insects that help to break down dead plant material. They’re your terrarium’s clean-up crew!
Sit back and imagine yourself strolling through your mini-landscape, enjoying the greenery and humid air. Spring will be here before you know it!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-make-terrarium-gardens-under-glass
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

      ​      Temperature is 37 degrees at 10:45 AM all ready.  Cloudy sky so not seeing the sun.  BUT the temperature will get over 40 today.  Then we have moisture moving in, and have to see how much snow or freezing rain we will get.  That is for Wed night, tomorrow and into Friday morning.  Still can’t complain about our January winter weather.  Stay safe all, stay warm. 
I have had these clivias here at the greenhouse for several years.  They have been a pass a long plant from a friend.  When they bloom, they are just lovely because for me it is usually in March.  If they are still blooming when I open up I could sell them all but being a pass a long plant I want to keep them. 
GROWING CLIVIA
HOW TO CARE FOR A CLIVIA PLANT AND GET IT TO BLOOM  By Robin Sweetser
The sunny orange blossoms on my Clivia miniata plant contrast nicely with the bleak landscape outside the window this time of year and give hope for spring. They seem to arrive just when we need them the most, after the craziness of the holidays has settled down and the cold of winter has settled in. Learn more about clivia!
WHAT ARE CLIVIAS?
Most clivias are grown as interesting houseplants and, as far as houseplants go, there aren’t many that are tougher. Since they are drought tolerant, they can go for several weeks without water; in fact, they need a dry, cold period to initiate flowering.
A cousin of the amaryllis, clivia is native to sub-tropical South Africa, where it grows in the shade of trees. Semi-epiphytic, they don’t grow directly in soil, preferring the rich decomposing leaf mold found under the trees, between boulders, or on rotten logs. Their thick, fleshy roots store water like a sponge, enabling the plants to survive during the African dry season.
Their colorful trumpet-shaped blooms are similar to that of amaryllis but smaller—and they retain their foliage year round (unlike an amaryllis).
There are six species of clivia and many hybrids, but the orange-flowering C. miniata is most commonly grown. Yellow varieties are available, but they are very expensive—around $300! Plant breeders have introduced other colors, like red, white with green stripes or red edges, and yellow with orange tips. There are some clivia varieties with green and white striped leaves, too. All types send up a cluster of 12 to 20 small, trumpet-shaped flowers on a tall stem called a scape.
Clivia can be grown outdoors as landscape plants in Zones 9 and 10 (mainly parts of Florida and California), but in colder climates they love spending the summer outside and the winter indoors. Place them in the shade under a tall tree, as direct sunlight might burn the leaves. Be sure to bring them inside when frost threatens in the fall.
HOW TO GET CLIVIA TO BLOOM
To get them to flower indoors, stop watering and keep the plant in a bright, cool spot, below 50°F (10°C) for at least 40 days and up to 90 days. (If giving it the long 90-day rest, you might need to water if the leaves start to wilt.) After it has rested, put your clivia in a warmer spot, resume watering, and it will flower in about 60 days.
I brought mine into our cool greenhouse (where night temps often drop to 45°F) around October 1, stopped watering it, never moved it into the warmth, and it started pushing up a flower scape in mid-December. My plant is quite large—not something I could balance on a windowsill—so it stays in the greenhouse until spring when I can safely put it back outside again. It often re-blooms several times.
After they are done blossoming, start to fertilize the plants by watering weekly with a half-strength, water soluble fertilizer. Remember to water weekly. Keep fertilizing until bringing it back inside in the fall.
Sometimes, the flower scape doesn’t get tall enough to clear the leaves and the blossoms can’t fully open—disappointing after waiting a year for it to flower! This can happen for many reasons—too hot, too cold, too bright, too shady, not a long enough chill time—but usually the fertilizer is to blame. Look for one that offers more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen.
Clivia bloom best when they are pot-bound. Often, the roots will push up out of the soil at the base of the plant, which is okay. They can go 3 to 5 years without re-potting, but eventually your plant will outgrow its container, become crowded, and cease flowering. This is a good time to divide it and make some plants to share with friends. Once you knock it out of its pot, it is pretty easy to pull the fans apart without doing too much damage to the roots. Take this opportunity to remove any dead, brown, rotting roots. Be sure to use a light potting mixture that has about 50% organic matter and lots of coco coir or fir bark to aerate the soil. The fleshy roots could rot if kept in heavy, wet soil. Grow in bright indirect light indoors, like a north window.
Clivia can be grown from seed, but it takes a long time! The seeds take about a year to ripen and the plant needs to grow for 4 to 5 years to reach a blossoming size. It is much quicker to divide an existing plant.
Clivia contains the alkaloid lycorine which is poisonous to pets and people. If eaten, it can cause vomiting and diarrhea. The roots are the most poisonous part. If eaten in large amounts, they can cause convulsions, low blood pressure, tremors, and heart arrhythmias. Clivia was used medicinally by the Zulus to treat fever and snake bite, and to relieve pain.
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
https://www.almanac.com/growing-clivia
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

image from www.amleo.com

      ​       It is 40 degrees at 1:00 PM today.  Unbelievable with a clear, blue sky.  A day to remember and enjoy.  Garden posting is about garden tools.  If you have worked here or been around me, you know of a couple of garden tools I am very protective about.  You can use them, but I want them back.  A couple of clippers are my favorite, and a hoe.  I have had the hoe for a long time. Also my 3 wheeled cart is my favorite and you can use it but….I need it then you will use something else.   I know you are the same about some of your garden tools.  Let us know.  When you come to the greenhouse, I will have these favorite tools around the checkout table because I use them all the time.  Share your favorite garden tool. 
GARDENING TOOLS 101: WHICH TOOLS ARE ESSENTIAL?  CHOOSING THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB  By Benjamin Kilbride
Hand Pruners
Have you got the right tools to garden? Luckily, it doesn’t take much! There are some tools and supplies that can make gardening a lot simpler, though. Here’s an overview of common gardening tools.
Discover the wide range of tools, implements, and equipment that are essential to gardening successfully. When starting a garden for the first time (or the second or third time), you’ll need a few basic tools right away. Here’s where to start:
TOOLS FOR DIGGING AND PREPARING THE GARDEN BED
Garden Fork
A garden fork (similar in appearance to a pitch fork) is useful for turning over soil and compost, digging out root crops, and dividing perennials. Its long, metal tines allow it to easily penetrate the soil and avoid the smaller rocks that would get in the way of a shovel.
Garden Hoe
A hoe is used to remove shallow-rooted weeds. It is also used to create furrows for planting seeds and to break up clumps of soil. Hoe heads come in many different shapes and sizes. Make sure that the metal head is securely attached to the handle. A smooth wooden handle will resist splintering.
Garden Rake
A garden rake or ground rake has metal tines and is used for smoothing soil and clearing the garden of debris or small rocks.
Garden Shovel
A key tool in a gardener’s arsenal, a shovel has a pointed, rounded blade and is useful for digging holes and moving soil. A spade is a type of shovel that has a straight-edged, flat blade and is good for digging straight-sided holes, cutting roots, and making edgings. When choosing a shovel or spade, the longer the handle, the more leverage you will have. Look for forged metal with a sharp blade edge.
Hand Cultivator
A hand cultivator is like a mini garden fork. It’s useful for removing small weeds and roughing up the soil, both in the garden and in a container.
Hand Trowel
A trowel is a small shovel used for digging small holes for planting seeds, measuring depths in the soil, and digging up tough weeds. Look for a trowel with a narrow, sturdy blade that will cut into the soil easily, as well as one that has a comfortable grip. It’s a gardener’s best friend!
TOOLS FOR PRUNING, DEADHEADING, AND HARVESTING
Garden Scissors
Garden scissors are used for deadheading flowers, cutting herbs and flowers, and pruning delicate plants.
Gloves
A good pair of gloves can help to prevent blisters and cuts, and keep your hands clean. Though there is certainly something to be said about feeling the dirt between your fingers!
Hand Pruner
A hand pruner removes small branches from perennials, shrubs, and trees. Choose a bypass-style pruner with smooth operating blades and a comfortable grip. Hand pruners can also be useful for harvesting ripe vegetables without damaging the plant.
TOOLS FOR WATERING
Garden Hose
A garden hose carries water long distances. Attach two or more together to reach farther. Variable nozzles or sprayer heads adjust to deliver everything from a gentle sprinkle to a hard stream. Brass parts and fittings are more durable than plastic.
Soaker Hose
A type of garden hose, soaker hoses are meant to be laid out in the garden around crops. When the water is turned on, they leak water through their permeable material and water the garden slowly. They allow for a steady, consistent watering, which is important to producing healthy crops.
Watering Can
Able to evenly water plants anywhere, a watering can is best suited for small watering jobs. It should have a capacity of a least 2 gallons but be easy to carry when full. Select a plastic or metal model with a removable spout. It’s also often beneficial to keep a smaller watering can around, too—especially when it comes to watering around small container plants.
MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS & SUPPLIES
Padded Kneelers
Padded kneelers (aka kneepads) can help to lessen the pressure on your knees. Kneeling is actually easier on your back than squatting. If both positions are too painful, bring a stool out to the garden to sit on or simply sit on the ground.
Leaf Rakes
Rakes are purpose-built: The leaf rake is lightweight and used for raking up leaves and lawn clippings and for spreading mulch. Metal rakes will last longer and perform better than plastic or wooden ones. Buy a rake that is securely attached to the handle. None of the parts should wiggle.
Wheelbarrow or Yard Cart
No matter the size of your garden plot, a wheelbarrow always comes in handy. A wheelbarrow or yard cart is used for hauling soil or leaves, collecting debris, and countless other tasks. The sturdiest wheelbarrows are made of one piece of heavy steel for heavy loads, but heavy-duty plastic wheelbarrows are a better choice for home gardeners. A wheelbarrow is easier to maneuver than a two-wheel yard cart, but less stable. Using a wheelbarrow or yard cart can also help to preserve your back, which is always at risk of strain from constantly bending to plant and weed your garden
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/gardening-tools-101-which-tools-are-essential
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

taken from lynnspiro.com 

      ​     So posting after a couple of days off.  I have been trying to get that plant order in.  That needs to get completed.  BUT today is National clean off your desk day.  So that is what I am doing.  My desk doesn’t look like Einstein’s but it was piled on top of the computers.   There is so much paper work with the greenhouse book work this year and last year, Larry’s Garage bookwork with current customers and past, Sunday school teaching and mailing, church stuff and mailings, church ladies, township bookwork that I do, I am also working on New year’s letters to family, friends and customers.  So, I do have a reason to have lots of paper.  I can hear Kenny Weber, bless his heart and rest in peace.  When he built me a new desk in 1984, I told him that would stay organized and he said very quietly “I give you a week.”  Kenny, I have this stuff organize and see how long it last.  How about you? 
 Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net, 641-794-3337, cell phone 641-903-9365