image from Glow Plant Inc 

​      It is snowing out and getting a little heavier snowfall.   Not much wind so that is good.   Temperature at 10:15 AM is at 9 degrees with a low tonight of 1 degrees.  Alexa said we are to have a high today of 19 degrees.  WE will see.  Stay warm. Stay safe.
 
So found this article about something new.  Have you seen these?  They are interesting.  I will see if I can order them, but I am thinking they will be really pricey. 
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Bioluminescent Plants Are the Next Big Thing  By TAYLOR FULLER
Imagine being able to add glowing plants to your plant collection. It sounds a bit crazy, but it’s actually a possibility because bioluminescent plants are the next big thing. We've seen a lot of houseplant trends come and go, but it seems like it's just the beginning for glow in the dark plants. “Bioluminescence is (and always will be) an eye-catching spectacle. Check out some of the glowing algae blooms in the ocean, some glowing fungi in our forests, or a swarm of fireflies on a nice summer night. Now imagine a garden that is self illuminating at night. We strive to bring the wonder of living light to people's homes,” says Cameron Gotti, founder of Glow Plant Inc, a small biotechnology company located in Toronto, Ontario. It’s true, you can't find bioluminescent plants in the wild, but being able to add some to your home is pretty special (and a bit futuristic, too).
What Kind of Plants Are Being Made Into Bioluminescent Plants?
Most of the bioluminescent plants we’ve come across are air plants. And while these plants aren’t genetically modified, they’re coated to create that glow. “We developed a plant-safe phosphorescent coating specifically for tillandsia foliage. The trichomes help the glowing compound adhere to the surface of the foliage." explains Gotti. "It is made of silica-coated photo-luminescent nanoparticles. The silica bends the light around the nanoparticle and reduces its visible appearance. It is then mixed into a plant-safe sugar based liquid and is applied to the foliage. It then dries and sets to the leaf permanently." The coating was made to be slightly elastic to allow for stretching over new growth areas, though all glow plants sold by Glow Plant Inc. area already mature and won't get much larger.
Does the Glow Last Forever?
If you’re wondering how long that will make your new plants glow for, the answer is for the plant’s life cycle. All you have to do is expose your Glow Plant to UV for a few seconds. The plant will then glow for about three hours before needing more UV exposure to “recharge” the glow. It’s a pretty spectacular thing to see and it’s just really cool to be able to see your houseplants glow in the dark.
Imagine placing these glowing plants in your bedroom and using them as a nightlight. Or you could leave them in your living room and as the sun goes down, your plant will glow and create a relaxing ambiance, similar to lighting a candle. These are just some of the ways you could add bioluminescent houseplants to your home decor.
The Impact of Bioluminescent Plants
And while spectacular, it’s also a bit novel. It makes people wonder, why are bioluminescent plants having a moment? Aside from being pretty, Glow Plant Inc. believes there’s actually a practical use for this in the commercial and industrial world. Gotti told us that it can help identify pests and diseases on plants, allows us to understand how plants react to stress and stimulants, and so much more.
At home, bioluminescent plants add something special to your collection and are just as easy to care for as your other houseplants. Because the glowing compound is adhered to the plant’s surface, you can care for it the way you would a normal air plant. All you do is soak it in water every so often so it can rehydrate itself.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/bioluminescent-plants-next-big-thing-
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from jrpiercefamilyfarm.com 

     Good morning.  Clear, Blue, sky so the sun is out and it is lovely.  THEN you look at the temperature and it says 5 degrees.  Maybe a little breeze but not much so still a great day.  NOW Alexa says overcast today and high of 13 degrees and a low of 4 degrees.  So see when the clouds move back in. Stay warm, stay safe. 
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I thought this was a fun article about rabbits and here is a quiz right away about stories with rabbits. Match them, and answers at the end. 
Fun Facts About Rabbits That You Probably Didn’t Know!
Credit: Mike Long
Rabbit Quiz: Tails With Tales!
Rabbits have been featured in MANY childhood stories. Match each rabbit in the first list with the clue to its story in this second list. (Answers end)
1.    Brer Rabbit
2.    Peter Cottontail
3.    Peter Rabbit
4.    Thumper
5.    Uncle Wiggily
6.    Velveteen Rabbit
Match to:
a.    rabbit gentleman
b.    “creetur” known to Uncle Remus
c.    gift to a boy at Christmas
d.    friend to Jimmy Skunk, Johnny Chuck, Hooty Owl, and others
e.    was chased out of Mr. McGregor’s garden
f.    friend of Flower and the wobbly-legged fawn, Bambi
Happy Year of the Rabbit! How much do you know about our furry friends? Rabbits are an ancient source of folklore; in some Asian countries, they see a rabbit in the Moon, not a man in the Moon! Enjoy these rascally rabbit facts—and take a fun quiz matching rabbit tails to story tales!
Where Do Rabbits Come From?
Sure, rabbits have been around for thousands of years, but they were originally found only in Africa and Europe—and especially in Spain, where there was an early overabundance of the animal!
Get this: Spain’s name comes from the Latin word Hispania, which means “the land of rabbits!”
Until about 400 years ago, rabbits were kept for food and fur. Then people started to keep them as pets, too.
Where Do Rabbits Sleep?
Wild rabbits live in forests, thickets, meadows, prairies, and deserts, usually underground in clusters of burrows, called warrens, where they sleep. The warrens are dug by the does and also help to protect rabbits from their enemies. Rabbits are prey to numerous predators, such as foxes, hawks, owls, wolves, and even raccoons.  Also, rabbits usually give birth at night!
Twitchy Noses and Long Ears
To escape danger, rabbits use their keen sense of smell! They can twitch their nose up to 150 times per minute to smell out dangerous predators that they can’t yet see or hear.
What about those long rabbit ears? Rabbits also have excellent hearing because of these long, flexible ears which are their best defense. They can detect even the slightest sounds.
Rabbit eyesight is also excellent. They can see in the dark and long distances really well which helps with predator defence. Sometimes they sleep with their eyes open!
 
Hopping and Thumping
Rabbits’ hind legs, which are longer than their front legs, help them to hop up to 15 feet—and communicate. Fur padding on the bottoms of their hind feet helps to reduce the shock of landing after a leap.
When a rabbit is alarmed, it will warn other rabbits of the danger by thumping its hind feet. If a rabbit feels safe, it may lie on its stomach with its legs outstretched. If it screams or grinds its teeth loudly, it may be in pain, but quiet grinding usually signals contentment, much like a cat’s purr.
What Do Rabbits Eat?
Rabbits have sharp front teeth called incisors, plus peg teeth, which are additional incisors behind the front teeth. Peg teeth are used mainly for grabbing and cutting food.
Being herbivores, rabbits feast on plants for food, usually preferring their sprouts and stems. They like clover, dandelions, and other weeds, as well as brussels sprouts, celery, grass, hay, herbs, oats, peppers, and, of course, carrots.
In the winter, when food is in short supply, rabbits nibble on tender tree bark. After eating in the morning, rabbits produce mushy, partly digested droppings, which they eat. This provides them with extra nutrients.
Rabbits Versus Hares
Many people think that hares and rabbits are the same, but they are not. Hares are larger than rabbits and have longer legs and ears. When hare kits are born, they have a lot of fur and their eyes are open. When rabbit kits are born, they have no hair and their eyes and ears are sealed shut.
Confused? Here’s more news: Jackrabbits are hares and the Belgian hare is a rabbit!
Man—er, Rabbit—in the Moon?
Many countries have a tale about what images appear in the full Moon. In Japan, people see a rabbit making mochi (a sticky rice cake) with a big wooden hammer.
 
Rabbit, Rabbit
If someone wishes you “rabbit, rabbit, white rabbit” first thing in the morning on the first day of the month, say “thank you”. A common superstition holds that receiving this greeting bestows good luck for the rest of the month. The exact origin of the tradition is unknown, but it can be traced to 1420 in England.
Names for the Rabbit Family
A male rabbit is called a buck.
A female rabbit is called a doe.
Baby rabbits are called kits. When they are born, they weigh about 1 ounce.
Any rabbit can be called a bunny. (It’s like calling a cat a kitty.)
A group of rabbits is called a herd.
A group of baby rabbits is called a litter, or nest.
So, what about those rabbits in the garden? They sure love your garden goodies! We’re not trying to be mean but there are steps you can take if you like some carrots for yourself. See how to keep rabbits out of the garden.
Quiz Answers:
 
1.    b
2.    d
3.    e
4.    f
5.    a
6.    c
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/fun-facts-about-rabbits-you-probably-didnt-know
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from abundantminigardens.com 

      Good morning.  It is cloudy now at 8:00 AM and looks like we will have them all day.  But the temperature is good at 26 and no wind.  So I went on a walk yesterday which was perfect, sun out, clear blacktop and my kitties following me.  I will go again today, but it is warmer out so that will be good.  How about all of you?  Hope you are getting out and about.  Good for the spirit. 
I found this article about starting onions from seeds.  In gardening, when we do things I think it is because we have a memory of the gardeners before us did this.  My mom didn’t start onions from seeds.  She would pull the onions she planted early to have young onions.  Larry’s mom Yvonne would start the onions from seeds in the garden.  I thought that would take a long time, so no young onions, but she always had onions in the fall and for the winter storage. .  BUT weeding is important in the garden as they do grow slowly and weeds can over take them.   Give it some thought.  Especially if you enjoy starting plants from seeds, I do think these are easy to grow and fun to watch.   

How to Grow Onions From Sowing to Harvest
Plant Onions in the Spring!  By the editors
Onions are a must-grow vegetable—planted early in the spring! You can get a goodly harvest for a small area, onions will keep for up to 6 months, and they are exceptionally useful in the kitchen. We’ll show you all you need to know to grow your own trouble-free crop of beautiful bulb onions.
Onions usually come in yellow or red types, but there are white varieties, too, which are often bigger, milder and great thinly sliced into salads. Most gardeners like to grow a sweet onion.
In terms of a planting location, onions love a sunny and open site in well-drained soil enriched with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. If your soil is heavy and tends to remain overly wet then grow onions in raised beds or on mounds to improve drainage.
 
Starting Onions: Seeds, Sets, or Starter Plants?
There are several options for starting onions but, whichever method you choose, they all need the same garden care.
You can grow onions from seed, transplants, or small bulbs called “sets.”
If you are growing onions from seeds (which is what we do), they must be started indoors in most of North America and grown under lights for a couple months before you set them in the ground, or about 10 to 14 weeks before your last frost date.
If you do not want to seed indoors and prefer to plant immediately, then you can purchase “sets” from the garden center which are small dormant bulbs that they grew from seed for you. You would plant these sets into the ground about 1-1/2 to 2-1/2” deep.
Many mail order nurseries also sell “seedlings” to transplant immediately; these small plants were started from seed in the current season. You can purchase them in bundles or in multi-packs from garden centers. Because they are first-year plants, you can expect large bulbs.

Sowing Onion From Seed
If you are growing onion from seed, then sow seeds into plug trays or pots to transplant later as seedlings. This avoids the need for thinning out, encourages a more economical use of seeds and, given the protection of a greenhouse or cold frame, means sowing can start at least a month sooner in late winter.
Fill plug trays with seed-starting or general-purpose potting mix, pressing it down firmly into the cells. Sow a pinch of four to eight seeds per cell, then cover with more potting mix to a depth of a quarter to half an inch. Water with a fine spray.
Transplant the resulting seedlings while they’re still quite small to avoid disturbing the delicate roots. Make holes into prepared ground, planting each clump of seedlings about 4in (10cm) apart before firming in and watering.
​
Sowing Onions Outside
Direct sowings can commence in spring as soon as the soil is workable and has warmed up a little. Rake the soil level then mark out seed drills about half an inch deep and a foot apart. Sow the seeds very thinly, cover back over then water along the rows to settle them in. Thin the seedlings in stages until they’re about 2 inches apart for lots of smaller onions or 4 inches apart for fewer but bigger bulbs.
Covering early sowings or transplants with row cover or fleece helps to speed things along at the start of the season, and may help reduce the tendency to bolt.
Some especially hardy varieties of onion may also be sown in late summer to sit through winter and give an extra early crop in spring or early summer.
Planting Sets or Transplants
In many regions you may be able to buy onion transplants (small plants) for immediate planting. An alternative is to plant sets. Sets are part-grown onions that are super-easy to grow and save time sowing. On the downside, they don’t store as well as onions grown from seed or transplants, and they carry a higher risk of bolting (flowering) which makes the bulb too tough to eat. There are, however, heat-treated varieties available that are more resistant to bolting.
Nevertheless, sets are clear winners when it comes to convenience. Plant sets in mid-spring into prepared, weed-free ground once the soil is workable and has warmed up a little. Leave just the tips poking up from the ground and space them 2 to 4 inches apart, depending on the final size of bulb you’re after. Some sets may also be planted in early autumn, to give a harvest up to two months earlier next summer.

Caring for Onions
Onions transplanted from plug trays may be left as they are or thinned out once they’ve grown on a little to give bigger bulbs. You can enjoy the thinnings as green onions.
As shallow-rooted plants, onions must be kept watered in dry weather. Keep on top of weeds, hoeing carefully between rows then hand weeding within the rows so as not to damage the roots.

Harvesting and Storing Onions
Harvest time is approaching once most of the leaves have bent down towards the ground. Bulbs will continue to swell over the next few weeks before coloring up nicely in time for harvest.
When they’re ready, lift them up with a fork or trowel then move those destined for storing under cover to dry. Any form of cover, from an airy shed to a greenhouse is ideal. In warm, dry climates simply leave the onions where they are on the soil surface. Space bulbs out so there’s good airflow between them. Racks can help with this. This drying process, called ‘curing’, takes about two weeks and toughens up the outer skin of the onion so it will keep for longer.
Store onions suspended in nets, tied into bundles or woven into beautiful onion strings. Onions should keep until at least midwinter, and as long as spring.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/how-grow-onions-sowing-harvest
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from the artofdoingstuff.com 

      Good morning.  Looks like the clouds are getting less and less, so should see the sun again this morning.  We had sun yesterday morning and that was very nice to see.  The weatherman said it will be a calm day.  Intermittent clouds.  High today of 31 and low tonight of 10.  At 8:30 AM it is only 10 degrees.  There is no wind so that helps.  We will say this is warm when we get to next week.  Below zero predicted as the low, and the single digits for the highs.  We are still in January in Iowa.  Weather is always changing for sure.  Stay safe, stay warm. 

I have talked about these two different potting products.  I can’t say it enough when you buy.  BUY potting MIX for pots, baskets and use in your containers.  Don’t get “potting mix” confused with “potting soil” Potting soil or garden soil is heavy and includes sand, clay, and other cheaper additives that won’t work for containers. Some people will purchase bagged garden soil for in-ground use because their own soil is too compact or lacks fertility.
Ways to Use Less Potting Mix to Fill Pots and Raised Beds
Have you noticed the price of potting mix these days? Filling up containers isn’t cheap, and it can cost a small fortune to fill raised beds. Slash your biggest garden expense! See five ways to make your potting mix go much, much further and fill beds for a fraction of the price.
What is Potting Mix?
“Potting mix” is “soilless” and is the standard medium to fill up pots and raised beds, both indoors and outdoor. We also use soilless potting mix a the growing medium for seed-starting in pots and trays
Soilless potting mix is lightweight and fluffy because it has ingredients that help with aeration and moisture retention (which young roots need). Potting mix may also contain a slow-release starter fertilizer.
Difference Between Potting Mix and Potting Soil
Don’t get “potting mix” confused with “potting soil” Potting soil or garden soil is heavy and includes sand, clay, and other cheaper additives that won’t work for containers. Some people will purchase bagged garden soil for in-ground use because their own soil is too compact or lacks fertility.
Saving Money on Potting Mix
Potting mix is one of the biggest expenses in the garden. If you want to be more economical in the garden this year, learning how to use less potting mix for better results is essential.
1. Fill Pots for Less
It never ceases to amaze us how quickly we can go through bags of potting mix, especially early on in the growing season. But ask yourself: Do you really need to fill all of your containers with pricy potting mix?
Many shallow-rooted crops like lettuce, radish and strawberries can cope in soil depths as shallow as 6 inches (or 15 cm), so there’s little point in having expensive potting mix below this.
However, they do still benefit from having moisture stored at those lower levels, so we can start filling containers with free materials to bulk things out: chopped up sticks and twiggy material, part-decomposed leaves or leaf mold, or straw, or even old potting mix salvaged from elsewhere.
Use this table for an idea of the minimum depths of quality potting mix you should be aiming for, then cut corners on anything beneath these depths. Stop wasting mixes and save up to 50% or more!
Minimum soil depths for common crops
Min. 6in/15cm deep            Min. 8in/20cm deep                    Min. 12in/30cm deep
Basil                                         Beets/beetroot                            Broccoli
Cilantro/coriander               Cabbage                                        Carrots
Endive                                    Chard                                             Cauliflower
Lettuce                                  Cucumber                                      Chinese cabbage
Mustard greens                   Garlic                                               Corn
Radishes                               Peas and beans                               Eggplant/aubergine
Scallions/spring onions     Peppers                                           Kale
Spinach                                 Summer squash                             Onions
Strawberries                         Turnip                                            Pumpkin and winter squash
                                               Zucchini/courgette                      Tomatoes

 
 
There are some crops that do need plenty of deep fertile soil. For heavy feeders such as squash and cucumber a great option is to fill the deeper layers with especially nutrient-dense materials such as kitchen scraps or the freshly-cut leaves of nutrient accumulators like comfrey. Over the growing season, dead leaves and organic matter releases nutrients, making them available to searching roots.
2. Reuse Potting Mix
If you have old potting mix, it can be used to part-fill other containers, or we can rejuvenate it. There’s life in the old mix yet! Start by dumping out old potting mixes in to a wheelbarrow or onto a tarp or other surface to dry out a bit. Once it has, go through, and pick out any obvious bits of larger root and other plant debris then store in lidded containers or bags until you’re ready to use it.
To revive it, simply take your old mix and add the same volume of new mix. Then go in with a handful or two of organic fertilizer such as  blood, fish and bone. Give it all a thorough mix and you’re good to go.
 This is what you will have to be careful of….might have weed seeds in the old soil.  Reusing old potting mixes does carry the risk of passing on soil-borne diseases, but you can minimize this risk by using potting mixes you grew flowers in for growing edibles the second time round, and vice versa. And, of course, don’t reuse mixes if they contained heavily-diseased plants.
3. Stretch Potting Mixes
Both new and rejuvenated potting mixes can be made to go further using either garden-made compost, leaf mold or sand, depending on what you plan to grow in it.
Rich, dark compost is a fantastic source of goodness for our heavy feeders, so simply mix sieved compost with your potting mix to create an extra-rich growing medium for these hungry plants. Potatoes, squash-family crops, tomatoes, and brassicas such as cabbage are just a few examples of crops that will relish the moist, nutrient-heavy environment this should create.
Conversely, some other vegetables grow better in a less rich soil. Carrots, for example, will happily grow in potting mix cut with sand to create a very free-draining growing medium. You might be able to pick up sand for cheap, or perhaps you have an old sand pit that can be plundered. If you have to buy sand, horticultural/gardening sand is great, but builder’s sand is much cheaper and will work well too. Just mix the sand with equal parts potting mix for a fantastic root crop mix.
4. Make Compost Pits
Compost pits or trenches are a superb way to save on bagged composts, or to take the pressure off your own garden compost so it goes further. For example, in a zucchini bed, rather than add valuable compost on top of the soil surface, dig out and set aside some of the soil. Add a good layer of kitchen scraps into the bed, and then return the soil to cover it. The kitchen scraps will rot down over the course of the winter, leaving a deliciously rich, moist layer for the roots to grow down into. Same goes in any other veggie bed such as a green bean bed; dig out a trench, fill that with more kitchen waste,  then return the soil on top. Then plant the beans into the top layer of soil and they’ll race away!
5. Fill Beds for Free
And now for the best tip to save your hard-earned money: filling raised beds or building up new planting areas for free.
Instead of digging down, you can create instant raised beds that you can plant straight into in spring. Much like making compost trenches or pits, this method composts materials where they lie to produce a growing medium into which you can plant.
Start by dropping a pallet collar beds into position here to help keep it neat and tidy but also you could make a new bed without any sides.
Line bottom of the bed with a few layers of cardboard, which will help to kill off the grass. Give the cardboard a thorough water to wet it if it’s dry.
And then  layer up the ingredients. You want alternating layers of carbon-rich brown materials and nitrogen-laden green materials, starting with a 2 to 4 inch (or 5 to 10 cm) layer of browns such old straw. Then it’s in with a similar depth layer of greens such as old, spent crops and garden trimmings. Now another layer of browns and then more greens… and so on till we reach a depth of at least 18 inches (or 45 cm) and, ideally, deeper than that if you have enough materials to hand. If it’s dry, water regularly to help all that organic matter begin rotting down.
This might look a bit too piled right now, but it will slump down within a matter of weeks. Autumn or early winter is a great time to start off new beds this way, as the repeated freezing and thawing of winter should help break things down ready for planting in spring. If it hasn’t completely broken down by then, you can just finish off with a couple of inches of garden compost to cap everything then plant into that.
An alternative to the lasagna method is to build up a bed by progressively moving from larger pieces of organic matter to smaller pieces before finishing with a cap of compost or soil. So, for example, the bottom of the bed might be larger logs or bits of branches, then sticks, then twiggy material, before finishing off with plant waste such as dead leaves, and then compost or potting mix, part-filling the  beds with sticks and prunings to save on bagged compost. The other bonus of this is that as the woodier material slowly breaks down it releases back the nutrients it contains to feed your plants, much like a slow-release organic fertilizer.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/ways-use-less-potting-mix-fill-pots-and-raised-beds
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from br.pinterest.com 

     The sun is out and clear blue sky this morning.  It is great to see the sun.  Temperature is only 13 degrees at 10:00 AM but with the sunshine it feels warmer out.  High today of 20 tonight a low of 15.  Trees are frosty so looks really nice out.  With the snow we got last week, everything is nice and white.  January in Iowa…stay safe, stay warm. 
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How to fix yellowing leaves on houseplants  by Robin Sweetser
One of the most frequently asked questions by houseplant lovers is, “Why are my plant’s leaves turning yellow?” To determine what is ailing your plant, take a close look at those yellowing leaves.
The simple answer is that there is no simple answer. Houseplant leaves turning yellow can be caused by several things.
Random leaves that are yellow or have yellow patches on the window-side of the plant are probably being sunburnt. Too much sun can bleach out your leaves to a sickly yellowish-green. An easy fix is to move it to a less sunny spot.
With the leaves off the trees, now this hanging plant gets too much late afternoon sun in its west window and has had a few leaves bleach out.
Upper yellow leaves are a sign of lime intolerance or chlorosis. If your water is high in lime or calcium, collect and use rainwater on your plants instead. Also repotting in an acidic potting mix will help. Often the newest leaves on acid-loving plants such as gardenias, azaleas, jasmine, or dwarf citrus are light green with dark veins, another indicator of chlorosis. Lime keeps them from absorbing the iron needed in photosynthesis. To prevent this, water them with a chelated iron fertilizer formulated for acid-loving houseplants. It will also contain trace amounts of minerals and micro-nutrients that your plants will make good use of.
Lower yellow leaves can have several causes:
If the lower leaves are turning yellow and dropping off it can be due to natural aging and die-off of the oldest leaves. Some plants shed their leaves seasonally. Don’t fret! They will respond with new growth in the spring.
Yellow lower leaves can also be a sign of overwatering. Check the pot to see if the soil is soggy. If so, you have been over-watering, a common cause of death in houseplants. Let the soil dry out before watering again. Instead of watering on a schedule, test your plants by sticking your finger into the soil to see if they really are dry before watering.
Lower leaves that turn yellow, dry up, and fall off can also be a sign of under-watering. Drought stress will cause the older leaves to shrivel up and drop off. Again, check the soil to see if it is dry and compacted. If so, pay more attention to how often you are watering and try to get them a drink before they get too dry. You may need to do some repotting depending on the size of the plant in relation to the amount of soil in its container. Small plants in large pots tend to be over-watered so move them to a smaller container with less soil while large plants in small pots tend to be under-watered and will need to be moved into roomier quarters with more soil.
If lower leaves are yellow and a lot of leaves on the plant are pale, light green it is a sign of insufficient nitrogen in the soil. Repotting in fresh soil may perk it up or you can start fertilizing on regular basis. Nitrogen is good for foliage plants or for flowering plants that have yellow leaves and weak growth. Go easy on the fertilizer though, and always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Too much fertilizer won’t cure a problem overnight. In fact overfeeding is 2nd only to overwatering as the leading cause of houseplant death. One important rule of thumb is to fertilize only during times of active growth—usually spring through fall—and not when plants are resting—usually in the winter.
Older leaves on this streptocarpella are dropping off to make way for new growth.
Don’t expect totally yellow leaves to magically green back up again, they won’t! Time to remove them, wait, and see what the new growth looks like.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/why-are-my-indoor-plants-leaves-turning-yellow
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from centralvalley.com 

    ​Second posting about seed starting.  I could have shared with you the whole article but this is the most important part of starting seeds.  First don’t start too soon.  For most of our vegetables, January here in Iowa is too soon.  Now this article like many of them talk about warmth and light.  At least, they write to have some time of darkness. BUT what I have found out to be a good practice, you also need sometime for the seedlings to be in cool.  After they have their first leaves, I would have the seedlings in darkness and also have them in cooler environment.  I am meaning around 40 degrees at night.  That way and I don’t know why the stock will grow thicker and not get thin and lanky.  I don’t know of any place that tells you that.  We run a cooler greenhouse at night and that is how we get that thicker stock on our vegetables.  Give it a try. 
Provide Warmth & Lots of Light
Most seeds germinate best when the soil temperature is 65° to 75°F. In a cool home or greenhouse, put your seed-starting flats on seed heat mats. Once the seedlings are up and growing, they prefer cooler 60° to 65°F temperatures and good air circulation. A small fan on the lowest setting nearby will help keep them cool and discourage disease.
Starting seeds on a sunny windowsill just doesn't work--there is simply not enough light and seedlings will be weak, tall and spindly. You need grow lights, which you can find at your local hardware store. Hang the lights on chains so you can move them up as your seedlings grow, keeping them just an inch or two above the seedlings at all times for maximum light and warmth.
Put the lights on a timer so you don't forget to turn the lights on for 16 hours and off for eight for most seedlings. Warmth-lovers, like Eggplants, Peppers and Tomatoes, like 24-7 light until they become 'toddlers' able to handle cooler temperatures, so consider putting them on a different shelf without a timer so that the lights are on continuously.  ( if you read this carefully you can see words like cooler temperatures when they are toddlers.)
Hope this helps.
Taken from kitchengardenseeds@kitchengardenseeds.com
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from handyhometips.com 

      Good morning.  Woke up to a cloudy sky.  Maybe see some sun this afternoon.  Everything is white for sure with that 8 inches of snow.  Larry pushed snow all day and on the blacktop and road it has melted so that is good.  HOW about you?  Temperature at 8:30 AM is at 23 degrees with only a high of only 24.  Doesn’t look like it will warm up much.  Stay safe, stay warm.  You will see I am posting 2 today because of information I want to get out to you.  They both are on seed starting.  Have fun.
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How Long Do Seeds Last?
How to Know If Those Seeds Are Still Good  by Robin Sweetser
How long do garden seeds last? How do you tell if your old seeds are still good? Wintertime is the season when these questions matter. The gorgeous seed catalogs arrive in the mail, tempting you with beautiful photographs. But before you go crazy, it’s time to inventory your leftover seeds to avoid duplication and determine viability.
Seeds are living things and their viability is affected greatly by the way they are stored. Most experts agree on dark, cool, and dry conditions as being the best. We keep some of our seeds in the refrigerator, but most are in open boxes in the dining room—probably not the best location!
Some seeds inherently have a longer life expectancy than others, too. Most last for a couple of years if stored in a dry, cool place. Consult the table below to see how long some of the most common garden seeds last.
How Long Do Seeds Last?
Replace after…        Type of Seed
1 Year Lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnips, salsify
2 Years          Corn, leeks, okra, peppers
3 Years          Asparagus, beans, broccoli, carrots, celery, kohlrabi, peas, spinach
4 Years          Beets, brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflower, Swiss chard, eggplants, kale, pumpkins, radishes, rutabagas, squashes, tomatoes, turnips, watermelons
5 Years          Cucumbers, endive, cantaloupes
Seed viability data gathered via Colorado State University Extension.
How to Tell If Your Seeds Are Still Good
If I have a question about the viability of some seeds—such as those beans that someone gave me back in 2012—I will test a few. This is as easy as placing ten seeds on a damp paper towel, folding it up, and placing it in a plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm spot and check after a week or so to see if any of the seeds have sprouted.
If 2 out of 10 germinate, that means a germination rate of about 20%—not too good, so I would either plant more of them than usual or buy fresh seeds altogether.
If 8 out of 10 germinate, that means 80%—not bad at all, and I can likely get away with using them for another season.
Once you have determined what you need, you can shop with a clear plan in mind and be less likely to overbuy.
Have fun looking through this year’s seed catalogs and dreaming of your best garden ever. Summer is just a page away in a seed catalog!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-long-do-seeds-last
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

​WOW we got snow.  Larry thought we got 8”.  He is moving snow, and I haven’t been outside yet.  That is a lot of snow to move.  Temperature is 28 degrees at 8:45 AM.  All area schools are closed today.  Happy kids, parents???  It is a heavy wet snow, so be careful in shoveling.  Stay safe, stay warm.  

 How to Keep Cyclamens Happy
Cyclamens are an attractive holiday plant that will bloom continuously throughout the winter months if cared for properly. Here’s how to keep these houseplants happy and keep them blooming for months!
Cyclamens (Cyclamen persicum) have brightly colored flowers of white, red, or pink suspended above attractive, heart-shaped leaves on slender stems. Some people say they resemble butterflies in flight!
When selecting this winter-blooming houseplant, choose one that has lots of buds that are just starting to open, as well as sturdy, succulent leaves.
With proper care, cyclamens will bloom near the Christmas season and continue blossoming for two to three months.
Cyclamen Plant Care
The most important things to know about cyclamen plant care is to give these houseplants bright, indirect light, good air circulation, moderate humidity, and moist soil (without keeping the tuber so wet that it rots).

• Lighting: Place cyclamens in an east-facing window or in a southern exposure that offers bright, indirect light. 
• Temperature: Daytime temperatures of 60° to 65°F (15° to 18°C) and nights at 50° to 55°F (10° to 13°C) are ideal. Do not let temperatures get above 70°F (21°C) or the plant will think it’s time to go dormant, which will cause it to stop blooming and drop its leaves.
• Watering: To keep the plant moist, water cyclamen thoroughly when the soil looks and feels dry on the surface, however, avoid watering the leaves or tubers in the center, which may rot if the soil remains too wet. A safer watering method is to place each pot in a saucer of water for about five minutes, or until the soil is uniformly moist. 
• Feeding: Half-strength fertilizer is best, or you will get mostly leaves with few flowers. Use a half-strength portion of liquid houseplant fertilizer every two weeks while the plant is in bloom.
• Flowers: As each flower fades, remove the entire flower stalk from where it attaches to the tuber by giving it a sharp tug. New flowers will emerge from one of the many buds waiting just below the foliage.

What to Do After Cyclamens Stop Blooming
Some folks just treat cyclamens as disposable holiday plants, similar to poinsettia. If you wish to keep your cyclamens growing, here are tips:

• In early spring, cyclamens naturally stop blooming; leaves will turn yellow as the plants go dormant. Gradually reduce water until June and pick off the dead leaves. Set the plants outside in partial shade, and water and feed regularly. Do not wet the center of the plant.
• In early June, stop watering altogether and expose the corms to full sun.
• At the end of July, begin watering again. When the corms begin to develop young leaves, replant in a larger pot.
• Bring the plant back inside in early fall. They will usually start producing new leaves and flower buds soon, and you will have recycled your cyclamen!

Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/cyclamens-christmas-houseplant
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net   641-794-3337  vell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

      Good morning, for us that are living in Iowa, we have been told about this winter weather storm coming thru.  Here in North Central Iowa we are in the 5-8 inches of snow.  Looks like starting around 3 and really snowing heavy by 6 tonight.  It sounds like lasting thru the morning tomorrow.  See what happens. 
Now I am not much of an tea drinker, but for you that are and want to grow your own herbs for tea here is some ideas. 
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Planting your own herbal tea garden  by The Editors
Grow your own tea garden! Discover the best herbs to plant for a modest herbal tea garden. Easy to grow on a windowsill or in a garden bed, homegrown herbs yield a much more flavorful, fragrant, delicious tea—plus, herbs bring so many healing benefits, from calming anxieties to improving sleep. Enjoy this easy, enjoyable way to connect with nature!
At some point, you’ve probably had bland, tasteless tea. This is likely due to either the herbs or the method used to make it—both solvable issues! Let’s start with the herbs …
Why Plant a Tea Garden
Delicious Taste: When it comes to planting an herb garden for tea, homegrown herbs—such as mint, lemon balm, and chamomile—will be more potent than anything you could buy in store store (which is often grown in hothouses which produce less flavor).
Healing Powers: So many herbs have natural healing benefits. For example, plants such as lemon balm, mint and chamomile have been usd to relieve stress and regulate sleep. The study of herbal medicine goes back thousands of years to the Sumerians who usd tea infusions to treat inflammation, congestion, and other ailments. Traditionally, apothecaries carried herbs or healing, and this was the start of modern medicine. Besides the herb’s medicinal uses, it’s simply a wonderful, nurturing experience to both prepare and drink your own homegrown herbal tea!
Easy to Grow: It’s one of the easiest gardens to grow! You only need a small space to grow herbs for steeping tea. You can grow outdoors in a small garden bed, on a balcony, in containers, or on a windowsill. Almost all “tea plants” grow easily throughout North America. They are hardy perennials (up to -20°F).
Fun and Relaxing: If you grow multiple herbs, it’s fun to blend different herbal teas and experiment. Imagine a mix of chamomile, lemon balm, and lavender! The heavenly scents of many herbs is so pleasurable on its own! Plus, you can use your herbs in so many other ways, from kitchen dishes and herbal vinegars to herbal soaps and bath soaks to healing tinctures.
Herbs in pots
Herbal garden with herbs in pots. Credit: Pixfix
10 Herbs to Grow in a Tea Garden
Mint, of course, comes in many varieties. Peppermint leaves (M. x piperita) are the best for tea, in our opinion, and make a refreshing iced tea, too. If you grow mint, note that it can become invasive; contain in its own bed or pot or just watch closely! Learn all about growing mint!
Lemon balm belongs to the mint family, too. It really does have lemon-scented leaves and makes a soothing evening tea It’s listed for zones 4 and 5, and less hardy than other mints. A rooted cutting will overwinter indoors.
Chamomile has small, daisy-like flowers that have long been used in Europe for tea. The tea is earthy with hints of apple and floral sweetness. It has a light, palatable taste that most people favor.
Rose petals tea can be made from any fragrant rose variety that’s been grown organically. Gather petals when the blooms are just past their peak. Garden.org states that, “Rosa rugosa is one that’s recommended for both petals and hips because it’s a fragrant, pest-free rose that doesn’t require spraying. Rose hip tea is red, with a tart lemon-orange flavor, and is a source of vitamin C. Cut slits in plump hips to speed drying and crush them slightly before brewing tea.”
Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla) is has a strong lemon flavor, closest to a lemon oil. This woody shrub prefers full sun and a light, well-drained soil. It’s hardy only in zones 10 and 11.
With Bee Balm, another member of the mint family, both the colorful flowers and the leaves can be used to make a flavorful tea that tastes of citrus and spice.
Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) produces seeds that lend a warm, citrusy flavor to tea.
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a member of the mint family and has a lemon-mint flavor. Note: Pregnant women should avoid drinking catnip tea.
Sunflower seed hulls can be blacked over a dry cast-iron frying pan and add to teas for a hearty flavoring. This was a favorite practice of Native Americans.
Lemon verbena has the strongest lemon flavor. This woody shrub prefers full sun and a light, well-drained soil. However, it’s only hardy in zones 10 and 11. Elsewhere, grow it in a planter and winter it indoors.
How to Plant Herbs for Tea
Whether you plant in a garden bed or individual pots, herbs need at least six hours of sunlight a day. They need soil that drains well or pots with drainage holes. Outside, we often use herbs as companion plants around the border of a vegetable garden, but you could also create your own corner herb garden. Inside, if you grow through the winter, you’ll need a grow light.
If you’re growing in pots, they need to be at least 10 inches in diameter. Fill each pot one-third full with Potting Mix, place each herb in a container so that the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot (to avoid overflow when watering), and add more potting soil to cover the plants roots. Tamp soil so it’s firm and water in well. A month after planting, fertilize.
How to Harvest Herbs for Tea
When it comes to herbs, keep harvesting and the herb will growing and not flower (and go to seed). Harvest in the mornings after the dew dries and before it gets too hot.
For leafy herbs such as mint and lemon verbena and thyme, never harvest more than a third of the plant at one time. You may then continue growing the plant and then harvest again and again.
For floral herbs such as roses or chamomile or lavender), we harvest when the flowers are in bud, as that is when the aromatic oils are the most concentrated. When you harvest, use a sharp pair if scissors and put down to the next set of leaves.
If you’re making tea with fresh herbs, gently wash under water and then smash the leaves with a spoon to release their oils before adding straight to your tea. This is generally how we make tea in nice weather.
If you’re drying the leaves, especially for the dormant months, gently wash and dry the leaves, either upside down or spread the stems on trays in a warm, airy place and turn them twice a day. When they’re dry and crumbly with no hint of moisture (4 to 8 days), gently strip off the leaves, buds or flowerheads and store them in airtight jars or containers. Don’t forget to label! See these four ways to dry leaves and flowers.
How to Brew Herbal Tea
Ready to brew? We recommend investing in an infuser that can be placed in a teacup. Some teapots have built-in strainers as well, which tend to come in handy but can be a bit more costly. You can use fresh herbs or dried herbs; dried herbs are more potent. Here is a simple way to brew herbal tea.
3 teaspoons freshly picked herbs or 1 teaspoon of dried herbs
1 cup hot water
Boil water. Add fresh or dried herbs to an infuser and place in a teacup. Pour hot water—not boiling—over the herbs, and cover the cup to keep in aromas. (It’s recommended to pour hot rather than boiling water to best preserve the potency of the plants.)
Steep fresh herbs for up to 10 minutes, dried herbs 4 to 6 minutes—or adjust to how strong you like your tea. Remove the infuser and serve.
1. Feel Good Tea Recipe
This is a great tea for anyone suffering from allergy symptoms. Both echinacea and licorice are said to cure an irritated throat.  The delicate, bitter taste of licorice will wake you up in the morning! You may certainly replace any of these herbs.
Boil 2 cups of water.
After the water has boiled, pour it into a pot and add 1 tablespoon of echinacea, 1 teaspoon of dandelion root, and 1 teaspoon of licorice.
Cover the water and herbs and let simmer on low heat for 15 minutes.
If you have a basket or small metal strainer, rest it on top of a mug or tea cup and pour the tea through, discard the remaining herbs after.
Last for personal taste, add a heaping teaspoon of honey!
2. Minty Tea Recipe
Once you start growing mint, you’ll have a lot of it! So, it makes sense to make this minty tea recipe. (See 12 more uses for mint!)
You’ll need:
3 tablespoons peppermint leaves
1 tablespoon catnip leaves
1 tablespoon rose petals
1 tablespoon lemon verbena leaves
First, dry the herbs as described above. Pour boiling water over the herbs. Cover and let steep for 3 to 5 minutes. Sweeten with honey if desired!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/grow-herb-tea-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365

image from reddit.com 

      Rain on Monday, Thunder storm, and there was a tornado in central IOWA.  This is January in Iowa.  Snow Wed into Thursday.  Up to 9 inches depending on who is predicting from what model.  Again stay safe.  The rain that fell yesterday is now ice on the blacktop and surfaces.  Be careful with that too.  I am starting to THINK about working with succulents before I start planting plug trays.  Here are some ideas to save you succulents.  They are forgiving just have to give them some tender loving care. 

How to Revive a Succulent  .By CORI SEARS
There’s no worse feeling than going to check up on your beloved succulent only to find that it's dying on you. Especially if it seemed fine the last time you checked on it just a few days before (or was it weeks?). Unfortunately, it can take a while for succulents to show signs of stress which makes a sudden decline appear as if it's coming out of nowhere when in reality it has probably been brewing for a while. Not to worry—as long as your succulent is still showing signs of life, it can be revived.
When to Revive a Succulent
Generally, any type of plant care like repotting or pruning should be done in the spring or summer months when the plant is actively growing. However, when it comes to reviving a succulent the best time is whenever you first notice the issue. It can take a while before a succulent begins showing signs of stress so once it finally does it’s important to act fast to ensure you save the plant.
Before Getting Started
The method for reviving a dying succulent will vary depending on what is causing the problem. Before getting started, it’s important to figure out what the main issue is. The most common culprits include overwatering, under watering, leaf burn, and pests.
How to Revive a Succulent Dying From Overwatering
Overwatering is the most common reason that succulents die when grown indoors. Succulents are extremely drought-tolerant plants and should be allowed to dry out thoroughly between waterings. A succulent that has been overwatered is susceptible to root rot which can quickly kill the plant. Watch out for signs of overwatering like mushy stems and roots, yellow leaves, and dropping leaves. At the first sign of overwatering, follow these steps to revive your succulent.
Prune Away Mushy Roots & Stems
Remove the succulent from its pot and prune away any mushy roots and/or stems using a pair of pruning shears. Don’t worry about cutting all the roots off if you need to. The most important part is ensuring that you remove all of the rot as it can spread quickly.
Prepare a Fresh Pot of Succulent Soil
Fill a plastic pot or terracotta pot (one that has drainage holes) with succulent or cactus soil. Alternatively, you can use an equal-part mixture of indoor potting soil, sand, and perlite.
Repot the Succulent
Whether your succulent has some roots left, or you needed to cut it down to the stem, the next step is to plant it back in fresh, dry soil. However, if your plant doesn’t have roots left it is best to allow the cut end of the stem callous over for a few hours before planting it back in the soil.
Return the Succulent to Its Original Location
Move the succulent back to its original location and whatever you do, don’t water it. Wait to water your plant until the leaves begin to pucker slightly, especially if you potted your plant up without any roots. Just like when you propagate succulent cuttings, roots will begin to grow on their own in the soil, but it's very important to wait to water your plant until roots have developed, otherwise, it will just sit in wet soil and begin to rot again.
How to Revive a Succulent Dying From Underwatering
While succulents are known for being drought-tolerant they do still require the occasional watering—they’re still plants after all. Chronic under watering can lead to a succulent’s roots drying up which then prevents it from absorbing any moisture when it is eventually watered again. The most common way to tell if your succulent is under watered is to check its leaves. If its leaves are looking wrinkled and dried up then you may be dealing with under watering. Ensure that you check the plant’s roots to confirm.
Remove Damaged Foliage and Roots
Remove the succulent from its pot and cut back any dried or shriveled leaves and roots. If the stem is dried too don’t be afraid to cut it back.
Let the Cutting Callous Over
Allow the succulent to sit in a dry location (out of the soil) for a few hours so that the cut ends can callous over.
Place the Succulent in Water
To help rehydrate the succulent and encourage it to grow new roots, place the succulent in a small container filled with water. The leaves should sit above the surface while the bottom of the stem and any remaining roots should be below the water. If needed, remove some of the lowest leaves to prevent them from being submerged. Place the container in a location that gets bright, indirect light.
Repot in Fresh Soil
After a few weeks, the succulent should have some roots established. If so, you can replant the succulent in a pot with fresh succulent soil. Alternatively, you can use an equal parts mixture of indoor potting soil, perlite, and sand. Water it well after repotting, allowing the excess water to drain from the pot.
How to Revive a Succulent Dying From Leaf Burn
Some succulents enjoy lots of bright, direct sunlight while others enjoy more mild conditions. Either way, all succulents are susceptible to leaf burn if the conditions are right. If your succulent has large brown, crispy spots on its leaves then this is an indication that your plant is suffering from leaf burn—sunburn for plants. This can happen if a succulent is exposed to more light than it needs, or if there is a sudden change in its lighting conditions (moving from indoors to outdoors for example) without adequate acclimation.
Remove Affected Foliage
Using a pair of pruning shears, remove any foliage that has been burned. This is mainly for aesthetic purposes as the burns cannot be fixed, but it also ensures that no bacteria is introduced to your plant via the burns. This may leave your succulent looking a bit scarce but don’t worry, it will sprout new growth.
Find a New Location for the Succulent
To prevent further leaf burn ensure that you move the succulent to a new location with less light. If you would like to move a succulent to a brighter location in the future, ensure that you properly acclimate the plant so it does not get leaf burn again.
How to Revive a Succulent Dying From Pests
Pests are every plant parent’s worst nightmare. Not only is the thought of your houseplants being infested with pests gross, but getting rid of them can be difficult and often requires a lot of persistence. If your succulent is suffering from pests you may see the insects crawling on or flying around the plant. You may also see some discoloration on the leaves, or a sticky residue left on the leaves and stems. While the exact course of action for removing pests may vary slightly depending on what type of pest you’re dealing with, these general steps are a good guideline.
Isolate the Succulent
First things first, the infested succulent should be isolated away from any other succulents or plants in your house to prevent the pests from spreading. Ensure you move it somewhere with adequate light—it will likely need to stay isolated for at least a few weeks.
Remove Badly Damaged Foliage
Using a pair of pruning shears, remove any leaves or branches that have been badly damaged by pests. If there are areas of the plant that are particularly badly infested you can also just remove those entirely at this time rather than attempting to treat them.
Spray Down the Plant and Treat
Move your succulent to the sink or shower and spray it down to remove as many remaining pests as you can. Then apply the correct insecticide/treatment for the type of pest you are dealing with.
Repeat
Unfortunately, one round of treatment usually isn’t enough for most pest so you will likely need to repeat the process a couple of times over the following weeks to ensure your plant is cured.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-revive-a-succulent-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 6641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365