picture from blueridge.edu

       ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs..
 
Question asked today 
Becky: This is the first time I grew these plants from seed and which they are lush and growing, there is not a single blossom on them. This is troublesome....so I will be on the lookout for blossoms.
 Do you have suggestions for anything I should do?
 Thank you.
 Raka   HOPE this HELPS....fertilizer is what I would say to try. 
 
 
Chinese okra ("Luffa cylindrica"), also called dishcloth gourd or luffa, is a type of gourd produced on plants that closely resemble cucumber vines.
 The fruits are green and grow up to 1-3 feet long, though they are harvested for food before they reach their mature size. They can be eaten fresh or added to cooked dishes. The inside of this gourd can be dried and used as a cloth, hence its common name.
Chinese okra should be planted in full sun and soil that maintains even moisture without being wet.
 
 Prepare the garden site by cultivating with a garden fork after all danger of frost in spring. Mix 5-10-10 fertilizer with the loosened soil at the rate instructed on the package.
 
 Create hills using a garden hoe. Leave approximately 6 feet between each hill.
 
 Sow the Chinese okra seeds at a depth equal to half their length. Water until the soil feels evenly moist at 2 to 3 inches deep.
 
 Keep the soil lightly moist, but not wet, at all times.
 
 Add 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the hills once the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall.
 
 Place a sturdy trellis behind the plants when they are 3 to 4 inches high. Train the vines by draping them over the trellis as they grow.
 
 Apply high-nitrogen fertilizer one week after flowers appear. Work it lightly into surface of the soil with a garden fork and water deeply. Do not allow the fertilizer to touch the vine.
 
 Feed the plants again with high-nitrogen fertilizer in three weeks.
 
 Harvest Chinese okra for eating when the fruits are 6 to 8 inches long, approximately 100 days after sowing the seeds. Gather fruits that are to be used for decorative purposes or as sponges about 30 days later.
taken from http://www.seedman.com/GrowingInstructions/edibleluffa.htm
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from vegetablegardener.com

      ​Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs..Here is a list of plants rabbits will eat, and then plants they don't like.  Hope this helps with that problem.  
 
Rabbit-Proof Plants   By Marie Iannotti
 
Rabbits dine out all year. They are herbivores and can make a quick meal of your garden. They will devour tender shoots in spring and gnaw through bark in the winter. You can tell when rabbits, not deer, have been chewing on your woody plants because rabbits make clean cuts. Deer do not have teeth on the top front of their mouths and must tear off the plants they munch on, leaving ragged stems.
 
Rabbits have large incisors, similar to squirrels and mice. But rabbits have two pairs of both upper and lower incisors, while rodents have only one set. (Rabbits are lagomorphs not rodents.)
 
It would be nice if there were plants that are truly rabbit-proof, but as with other animals, rabbits can surprise you. They do have their favorite foods and those they tend to avoid, but when food is scarce, they will eat just about anything. If you are interested in how to deter rabbits, there are ways to control and deter rabbits from overrunning your garden.
 
 Plants That Rabbits Will Eat 
The entire list of plants that rabbits will eat, or at least sample, is too long to list out everything, the following are rabbit favorites.
Tender, young leaves are the most susceptible, although they will sample many plants in the vegetable garden.
■ Bean
■ Beet
■ Broccoli
■ Carrot [particularly the tops]
■ Lettuce
■ Parsley
■ Pea [especially the leaves and tendrils]
■ Spinach
■ Swiss chard
■ Most tree fruits and berries
 
These plants often sustain the most damage, because they are tender and generally out in the open with no protection.
■ Asters
■ Baby's breath (Gypsophila paniculata)
■ Bachelor's button (Centaurea cyanus)
■ Bellflower (Campanula spp.)
■ Clematis
■ Cockscomb (Celosia argenta cristata)
■ Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
■ Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
■ Coral bells (Heuchera sanguinea) [flowers only]
■ Crocus (Crocus hybrids)
■ Gayfeather (Liatris spicata)
■ Gazania (Gazania rigens)
■ Great masterwort (Astrantia major)
■ Hosta
■ Lilies (Lilium hybrids)
■ Lupine (Lupinus)
■ Impatiens (flowers mainly)
■ Maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum)
■ Marguerite daisy (Felicia amelloides
■ Mountain bluet (Centaurea montana)
■ Pansy
■ Phlox
■ Rose moss (Portulaca grandiflora)
■ Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) [seedlings only]
■ Sweet pea (Lathyrus latifolius)
■ Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum)
■ Tulip
■ Violets
■ Wishbone flower (Torenia)
 
Related:Avoid These Plants if Rabbits Are a Problem
Shrubs and Trees
Rabbits prefer tender woody plants with thin bark, so new plants and shoots are at the most risk. If you have a shrub they keep gnawing on and you cannot protect it, tossing a branch or two on the ground might keep them content enough to leave the shrub alone. Rabbits will go for the easy meal. It is better to sacrifice a couple of branches than the whole plant.
■ Apples/crabapples (Malus spp.)
■ Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum)
■ Barberry (Berberis)
■ Burning bush (Euonymus spp.)
■ Chokeberry (Aronia spp.)
■ Deutzia (Deutzia sp)
■ Dogwood (Cornus spp.)
■ Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis)
■ Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus)
■ Flowering quince (Chaenomeles)
■ Fothergilla (Fothergilla spp.)
■ Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.)
■ Honeylocust (Gleditsia spp.)
■ Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)
■ Ironwood (Carpinus spp.)
■ Juneberry/serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)
■ Linden (Tilia spp.)
■ Maple (Acer spp.)
■ Mountain ash (Sorbus spp.)
■ Oak (Quercus spp.)
■ Poplar (Populus spp.)
■ Rose (Rosa spp.)
■ Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
■ Smokebush (Cotinus coggygria)
■ Spirea (Spiraea spp.)
■ Sumac (Rhus spp.)
■ Viburnum (Viburnum spp.)
■ Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
 
 
 
 Rabbit-Resistant Plants 
It should be no surprise that plants with strong fragrance or fuzzy leaves like lavender and black-eyed Susan are less popular with rabbits. Unfortunately, these plants will not deter them completely. Rabbits grazing in your flower beds will simply eat around the less enticing plants.
 
Rabbit-Resistant Vegetables
These tend to be either aromatic, thorny, or members of the nightshade family.
■ Artichokes
■ Asparagus
■ Onions
■ Peppers [may eat young plants]
■ Potatoes
■ Squash
■ Tomatoes
 
Rabbit-Resistant Annuals and Perennials
Remember, they may nibble to see if they like it and will eat anything, if they are really hungry.
■ Agastache
■ Ageratum
■ Allium
■ Blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii)
■ Anemone (Anemone x hybrida)
■ Angelonia
■ Artemisia
■ Astilbe
■ Azalea
■ Balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)
■ Basil
■ Beard tongue (Penstemon)
■ Bee balm (Monarda)
■ Begonia
■ Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
■ Blanket flower (Gaillardia)
■ Bleeding heart (Dicentra)
■ Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
■ Butterfly bush (Buddleia)
■ Canna
■ Carex
■ Blue mist shrub (Caryopteris x clandonensis)
■ Candytuft (Iberis)
■ Catmint (Nepeta)
■ Columbine (Aquilegia)
■ Crocosmia
■ Daffodils (Narcissus hybrids)
■ Daylily (Hemerocallis)
■ Dead nettle (Lamium maculatum)
■ False indigo (Baptisia australis)
■ Geranium or Cranesbill
■ Forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides)
■ Geum
■ Ginger (Asarum spp.)
■ Ice plant (Lampranthus)
■ Iris
■ Lamb's ear (Stachys byzantina)
■ Lantana
■ Larkspur
■ Lungwort (Pulmonaria)
■ Maiden grass (Miscanthus)
■ Lavender (Lavendula)
■ Marigold Tagetes
■ Moss pink (Phlox subulata)
■ Muhly grass (Muhlenbergia)
■ Mums (Chrysanthemum) (Not guaranteed)
■ Oregano
■ Pincushion flower (Scabiosa)
■ Poppy (Papaver)
■ Petunia
■ Rosemary
■ Russian​ sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
■ Salvia (Sage spp.)
■ Sea holly (Eryngium)
■ Sea thrift (Armeria)
■ Sedum
■ Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus)
■ Snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum)
■ Spanish bluebell (Hyacinthoides hispanica)
■ Speedwell (Veronica spp.)
■ Spider flower (Cleome)
■ St. John's wort (Hypericum)
■ Thyme
■ Tickseed or Coreopsis
■ Verbena
■ Vinca
■ Zinnia
 
Trees and Shrubs Not Often Eaten by Rabbits
■ Black walnut (Juglans nigra)
■ Juniper (Juniperus)
■ Spruce (Picea)
■ Fir (Abies)
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/rabbit-proof-plants-
till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

      I Samuel 17:37  David said, The Lord Who delivered me out of the paw of the lion and out of the paw of the bear.  He will deliver me out of the hand of this Philistine.  And Saul said to David, Go and the Lord be with you!  

      If we remember the miracles God has done in the past with awe and a thankful heart, we will not so easily fall into worry and fear when we have new challenges to face.  When David was facing Goliath, he remembered the lion and the bear he had already slain with God's help.  Because he remembered what God had done he had no fear of his situation with Goliath.
        Are you facing something right now that looks like a giant in your life?  If so, remember God's goodness, be thankful for what He has done before, and choose to believe He can do it again.  Write down three things that God has done for you in the past and focus on them instead of your problem.  Nothing is impossible for God.  take some time to think about and talk about God's miraculous work.  Then you will find courage filling your heart.  

Lord, with all my heart, I thank You, for the wonders You have done in the past.  And today, I stand in faith, believing that You will work mightily in my life once again.  Thank You for being the same yesterday, today and forever.  IN your name we pray AMEN
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

       ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs..
 
Did you know that Beans rival Zucchini for abundant harvests? It's true~if you plant a row of Bush Beans or a Pole Bean tepee or two, expect to be picking Beans every day for weeks on end. You'll have plenty for family dinners and and to freeze for winter, when the taste of homegrown Beans can bring back the summer sun in a single bite. In fact, The sheer abundance of a Bean harvest is just one of the reasons they're one of America's most popular vegetables to grow, second only to the Tomato.
Mid-summer is the perfect time to sow a new crop of Beans. A July planting.  So do some now, and again in July.
Taken from kitchengardenseeds@kitchengardenseeds.com
 
Too late to plant a vegetable garden?
 
Don't miss this!
This is something beginners believe…that they’ve missed the opportunity to have a vegetable garden once Memorial Day has passed. I’ll admit that I’m a little behind on my planting this year. My wonky spring work schedule followed by the rain has thrown me off a little but there’s still plenty of time to plant and harvest vegetables. In fact, I just got my last two tomato plants in just yesterday…no big deal since they were growing in their pots all along. At least now I can stop worrying about them drying out now that they’re all tucked into the garden.
If you spend some time with the vegetable schedule (part 2 here) you’ll soon see that vegetables aren’t something that you “plant in the spring and harvest in the fall”. There is a huge planting season that won’t even start until June and into July.

Summer Sowing
As our early crops of spinach, lettuce and others bolt in the summer’s heat, it is time to rip them out to open up space for the crop we sow in summer. Here’s a little list of “mid summer sowers” and you can refer to your Vegetable Schedule for even more. It is easy to forget the garden in summer but this is your best opportunity to really take advantage of summer heat to get fall crops up quickly for a large fall harvest. Many cool season greens that mature in September taste better than their spring counterparts so summer sowing is a huge opportunity.
• Basil-Sow seeds late June through late July.
• Beans-Sow seeds of quick varieties (generally bush types) until 3rd week of July.
• Broccoli-Sow seeds until mid July.
• Brussels Sprouts-Sow seeds until mid July.
• Cabbage-Plant transplants through mid July.
• Carrots-Sow seeds through mid July.
• Collards-Plant transplants until August 1st.
• Dill-Sow seeds late July to early August.
• Escarole, endive-Sow seeds early July through August.
• Kale-Sow seeds through first week of August.
• Kohlrabi-Sow seeds through first week of August.
• Lettuce-Sow in groups two weeks apart from mid July through September 1st. •
• Mustard-Sow seeds mid July to mid August.
• Parsley-Sow seeds mid June through mid August.
• Peas-Sow seeds in early to mid July.
• Radish-Sow seeds mid July to early September at two week intervals.
• Spinach-Sow seeds late July to early August.
• Summer squash-Sow seeds until mid July.
• Turnip-Sow seeds late June to early August.
Seed packs are cheap so play around with them. There are plenty at the garden center so take some time to read the backs. Pay attention to the “days to harvest” information. As of now we have at least 100 days left until frost. You can have a crop of beans in harvest in 50 to 60 days or radishes in less than 30! Many crops like Brussels Sprouts and Swiss Chard aren’t bothered by frost and can be harvested into October most years.
   I have to say that there really isn’t anything at all difficult about starting seeds directly in the garden…much easier than starting seeds indoors in winter. Some seeds like tomatoes and peppers must be started inside in March but the real value (savings) to be gained from vegetable gardening is from crops that we seed directly in the garden. Lettuce and all the other greens like chard and spinach are good examples. Radishes are also very rewarding since you can sow a row every two weeks and they grow and mature in less than a month.
 
Let’s take a look at beans…according to the vegetable schedule you can start sowing them in early May or anytime through the third week of July. As you can see, there’s plenty of time to start a crop or two of beans.
 
taken from https://blog.timesunion.com/gardening/think-its-too-late-to-plant-a-vegetable-garden-think-again
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

     ​Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs..
 
The Knock Out® Family of Roses are easy to grow and don't require special care. Plant them individually among shrubs, annuals and perennials in mixed beds and borders. Plant them in large groups to create a colorful hedge or along a foundation to provide a bright border. For best performance, we recommend cutting them back every year in early spring after the last threat of frost has passed.
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Your rose bush will need at least 6-8 hours of sun each day, so choose a sunny spot to plant.
 
2: Dig a Large Hole
Dig a hole slightly larger than the container. Work the soil at the bottom of the hole with your shovel so that it's loose and aerated.
 
3: Remove Rose from its Container
Remove the Knock Out® Rose from its container. Use your hands to gently loosen the roots at the bottom of the plant.
 
4: Plant your Rose in Ground
Place plant in the hole ensuring that the base of the plant is level with the soil.
 
5: Fill in Soil around Plant
Add soil back to the hole around the plant. Crumble the soil so that it is nice and aerated. If desired, mulch around plant. 
 
6: Water Rose until Established
Water your Knock Out® Rose thoroughly around the base of the plant allowing it to soak in. Repeat as necessary. For the next couple of weeks, check in and water the plant as needed to ensure it stays healthy. 
 
Something I haven't done before except when I am selling the knock out roses is planting in a container.  Here is the directions for that.
 
1: Pick a Pot with Drainage  
Choose a container two sizes larger than the size pot the plant was currently in to give it room to grow. Select a pot with drainage or drill holes in the base to allow water to flow out.
 
2: Place Gravel in Base   
Use 2 inches of gravel in the base of your container to help with drainage.
 
3: Add Potting Soil  
Place multiple scoops of the potting soil to your container.
 
4: Add Knock Out® rose
Remove the Knock Out® Rose from its container. Use your hands to gently loosen the roots at the bottom of the plant. Place in your container ensuring that the base of the plant is straight.
 
5: Fill in Soil around Plant    
Add soil around the plant leaving only 1½  inches at the top of the container.
 
6: Place in a Sunny Spot       
Your rose bush will need at least 6-8 hours of sun each day, so choose a sunny spot to place your container.
 
7: Water Twice a Week       
Water your Knock Out® Rose thoroughly around the base of the plant allowing it to soak in and repeating twice weekly. 
taken from https://www.knockoutroses.com/planting-container Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
       I am sharing with you about buying a tree and what you need to consider before you buy them.  WE have some really nice trees and shrubs here for your yard.  Remember with every $100 worth of product you buy you get $7.50 off the price. So most of the trees you would get that instant credit of 7.50. 
    
Planting a tree isn’t as simple as digging a hole and throwing the tree into it. You need to consider your land, the climate where you live, what plants are suitable to your local area. However, if you take the time to think about these factors, you will be able to successfully plant and enjoy a tree or trees for years to come!
 
Consider your goal. Before you begin the process of planting a tree or trees, first consider your ultimate goal. Do you want to add a couple of trees to your property to give it greater curb appeal and increase the value of your home? Or maybe you just want the pure enjoyment of seeing the tree grow and invite wildlife such as birds to sit on its branches. Knowing what you want in planting a tree will help you make the best decisions about everything from what kind of tree best suits your needs to where to plant it. 
 
Think about your local climate. You’ll need to think about the weather in your local area before planting a tree to make sure that you get a species that will survive and thrive in your garden or yard. Using the Plant Hardiness Zone scale can help not only identify your local climate, but also the best types of trees to plant. •The Arbor Day Foundation offers a system of identifying climate for plants called the Plant Hardiness Zones. It divides the United States and Canada into 11 different zones that are based on a 10 degree Fahrenheit difference in the average annual minimum temperature.
•Knowing your zone will help you identify the types of trees and other plants that you can plant and expect to grow in the zone’s temperature extremes.
•Know that the Plant Hardiness Zones don’t account for local differences including moisture, soil, winds, and other conditions that could affect the survivability of individual plants.
Consider your land. You’ll also want to consider the terrain on your property before you plant a tree. Factors such as slope, neighbors, drainage and erosion can have an impact on what trees will thrive on your land. •For example, if you live on particularly hilly or steep land, it may not be a good idea to plant trees because their roots may not be able to take proper hold.
•If you’re planting a tree or trees to combat erosion, you’ll want to plant trees that already have a strong root ball so they don’t get swept away at the next rainfall or windstorm.
•Think about what kinds of other trees and plants are there so that the tree you plant not only fits in with the overall aesthetic scheme, but also that the tree has room to grow and won’t kill other plants and trees around it.
•In the United States, you can call 811 before you dig. This will get your underground utility lines marked for free, which will help to prevent damage, injury, and fines.
 
Buy your tree. After you’ve done the background work on your climate, land, and zoning laws, you’re ready to buy a tree to plant. Purchase a suitable tree for the region, climate, and your yard. •Trees native to your area tend to do well, and you won't be introducing a potential invasive plant species. It will be easier to care for a tree that is already native to the area.
•You can find the best species of tree for your area. For example, if you live in northern Canada, planting a palm tree probably isn’t feasible. The Arbor Day Foundation can help you find the best tree for your area simply by putting in your zip code or Plant Hardiness zone into the search engine at http://shop.arborday.org/content.aspx?page=tree-nursery .
So next time I will share on preparing to plant the tree.
taken from https://www.wikihow.com/Plant-a-Tree
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 
 

      ​Such impressive plants and colors! Grows 3-5' tall very quickly and show off spectacularly in the sun. Easy to direct sow. Tolerates poor soil, unfazed by heat or drought.
      Amaranthus is a showy and exotic plant, ideal for beds and borders. Amaranthus are the best accent plants, especially in dried flower arrangements. The long, rope like Amaranthus flowers cascade to the ground from tall, erect branching stems. Amaranthus flowers are breathtaking tassels of the darkest red or green.   
        Amaranthus is also called as Amaranth, Tampala, Tassel Flower, Flaming Fountain, Fountain Plant, Joseph's Coat, Love-lies-bleeding, Molten Flower, Prince's Feather and Summer Poinsettia. Amaranthus is a broad genus of about 60 species of short-lived herbs that breed mostly in the temperate and tropical regions. Amaranthus also includes the pigweeds, Amaranthus hybridus.
       The plant is large and bushy, growing at about 90-130 cm in height. Many Amaranthus species are cultivated as leaf vegetables, cereals, or ornamental plants. It primarily serves as an annual ornamental, and its leaves and seeds are edible with nutritional properties.
      Bisexual or unisexual, Amaranthus flowers are typically very small and usually prickly with bristly perianth and bracts. Bracts subtend the flower with two scarious or membranous bractlets . The flower's androecium holds usually 5 stamens located opposite the sepals. Its stamens on the are generally united for part or all of the length into a membranous tube or crown-like structure, sometimes with tiny appendages between the anthers. Leaves on the Amaranthus are alternate, simple, estipulate, and generally whole.
Facts about Amaranthus
• The Aztecs used Amaranthus flowers in several of their ceremonies, making images of their gods (especially Huitzilopochtli) with Amaranth mixed with honey.
• The Aztecs and other Mexicans also used Amaranthus, called huautli, to prepare ritual drinks and foods.
• Amaranthus cultivation reached its height during the Aztec Empire. For the Aztecs, the Amaranthus represented nutritional value, in both therapeutic and the ritual usage.
• Amaranthus was one of the staple foodstuffs of the Incas, and is known as the kiwicha in the Andes today.
• To this day, Amaranth grains are toasted much like popcorn and mixed with honey or molasses to make a treat called alegra, literally joy in Mexican Spanish.
• As Amaranthus was often mixed with blood and used in pagan ceremonies, it was nearly extinct when Christian culture spread in the Americas.
• Amaranthus leaves are oval, 2-4 inches long, starting out green or dark red and changing to bright yellow, orange or florescent pink at the top.
• The foliage of all varieties of Amaranthus is edible, highly nutritious and is described as tasting like spinach.
• The world has recently rediscovered the nutritional properties of Amaranthus.
• Amaranthus is used as edible greens, herbs, and grains in Africa, China, Greece, India, Nepal, Pakistan, and Tibet.
• Amaranthus caudatus is most typically known as the Love-Lies-Bleeding plant and serves as a border plant in flower gardens.
 Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

       ​       Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
  Here is the plant featured today that I have grown from seed.  LOVE doing that. 
   
Calendula (Pot Marigold) Plant Profile  By Marie Iannotti
 Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is a short-lived perennial in warmer climates, but it is usually grown as an annual flower in garden beds and containers. Although commonly known as pot marigold, calendula is different from the common marigold (Tagetes spp.). It is, however, part of the same Asteracea family, along with daisies and chrysanthemums, with whom it shared the same daisy-like flower appearance.
 
The common name of pot marigold derives because the gold flowers that bloomed during the festivals of the Virgin Mary in Renaissance times (mary + gold = marigold) were often used in cooking. Today, gardeners simply grow these plants for their cheery flowers and profuse blooming habit. Though they most commonly are seen in varieties with yellow and orange flowers, there are also more subtle shades of pink and cream available. Calendula is commonly used in annual flower beds and in container gardening.
 
■ Botanical Name: Calendula officinalis
■ Common Name: Calendula, pot marigold, common marigold, Scotch marigold
■ Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial flower, usually grown as an annual
■ Mature Size: 1 to 2 feet in height with a similar spread
■ Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
■ Soil Type: Average, well-drained soil rich in organic material
■ Soil pH: Prefers 6.0 to 7.0, but tolerates a wide range of soil pH
■ Bloom Time: May to early fall; will rebloom constantly if old blooms are dead-headed
■ Flower Color: Bright yellow to deep orange; creams and pinks also available.
■ Hardiness Zones: 9 to 11, but usually planted as an annual in zones 2 to 11
■ Native Area: Unknown; may be a garden creation, not a native species
How to Grow Calendula 
Calendula is very easy to grow from seeds or transplants when placed in full sun and planted in ordinary fertile garden soil that is well drained. Purchased seedlings should be planted after danger of frost has passed; seeds can be sown just before the last frost date in the spring. Pinching back young plants will promote more compact, bushy growth and prevent the plants from becoming leggy. Deadhead the old flowers to encourage reblooming.
 
Light 
Calendula generally prefers full sun, but in hotter areas, it sometimes languishes during the hottest months unless it receives some afternoon shade.
 
Soil 
Like most members of the daisy family, calendula needs a well-drained soil high in organic material. Dense, wet soils can cause the roots to rot. This plant tolerates a wide range of soil pH but prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil.
 
Water 
Water frequently until the plants are established, but mature plants thrive on only occasional watering. Avoid too much water with these plants.
 
Temperature and Humidity 
Calendula prefers mild summer temperatures and may die away by the end of summer in very hot climates.
 
Fertilizer 
Calendula does not need much in the way of feeding, and in fertile garden soil, it requires no additional feeding at all. Marginal soils may require feeding with a balanced water-soluble fertilizer, but over-feeding can make the plants leggy and spindly. Container plants do require monthly feeding with diluted balanced fertilizer.
 
 Propagating Calendula 
Calendula is a short-lived perennial that is generally propagated from seeds, which easily germinate and sprout. Seeds collected from the flowers can be saved and replanted; the plants will also readily self-seed in the garden.
 
Harvesting Calendula 
Although some people find the taste somewhat bitter, the flowers and leaves of calendula can be used in salads and other recipes, both fresh or in dried form. The plant sometimes regarded as a medicinal herb, and has been used in topical ointments for cuts and scrapes.
 
Collect calendula flowers in the late morning, after the dew has dried. Pick flowers when they are fully open and check often because they come and go quickly. To dry the flowers, spread the cut flower heads out on a screen in a dry, shady spot. Turn them occasionally until they are papery dry, then store them in canning jars until ready to use.
 
 Growing From Seed 
Start calendula seeds indoors in seed starter mix about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. Or, you can sow them directly into the garden just before the last spring frost date. Most plants bloom within 2 months of seeding. These plants very often self-seed in the garden; learn what the seedlings look like so you don't mistake them for weeds.
 
 Growing in Containers 
Although the "pot" in the common name "pot marigold" refers to this plant's traditional use in cooking, calendula is also commonly planted in pots, where it thrives. Most varieties do well in pots, although shorter cultivars may be better suited. Use any well-draining, organic potting soil; or you can make your own mixture with a blend of half garden soil and half compost. Make sure the pot has plenty of drainage holes since this plant does not like to be soggy. Potted specimens will need regular feeding with a balanced fertilizer.
 Common Pests and Diseases 
Calendula has no serious insect or disease problems. They can sometimes be susceptible to powdery mildew (remedied by good air circulation), and slugs and snails may feed on them, especially young plants. Keep ground areas clear of debris to minimize slug and snail damage. Aphids and whiteflies can sometimes be a problem; spraying with water or treating with insecticidal soaps can eliminate them.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/growing-and-using-calendula-1402626
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

Pastor Sandi in her glory with all these kids for children's sermon.  It was a great service with a baptism.  Thank you Pastor for it.  

        ​      Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
So here is a couple of my favorite gardener visitors....Are you looking for plants to fill in the garden or looking for flowers to start in the planting?  The flat of 12 of 4 packs for $15.99 mix and match annuals is a good buy.  48 plants....That is the picture you are seeing of that flower rack of them.
Profusion Zinnias are blooming now, lots of marigolds, snapdragons are doing well....now these are annuals that have been around for a long time.  Mealapodium and lots of waxed begonias. Red, white, blue petunias and with this cooler weather pansies look good and still blooming. 
 
Plant Profusion Zinnias for Color All Summer
Friends, if you want no-fail flowers that will give you beautiful color all summer up until frost, then I recommend planting profusion zinnias!
 
Profusion zinnias-the perfect annual
It’s that time of year when most of us are headed out to garden centers looking for pretty summer annual flowers to plant in our gardens or containers. No doubt you have most of them planted this spring, but if you are still looking, then I highly recommend planting profusion zinnias.
 
Profusion zinnias are a hybrid of the older zinnia staple of every cut flower garden and the Mexican or narrowleaf zinnia. They come in a variety of festive colors and white, and just like their name implies, they give you a profusion of blooms on a small, compact plant.
 
Profusion zinnias growing in a vegetable gardenI have been growing them in our vegetable garden for at least 5 years. Here you see them mixed in with taller, old-fashioned zinnias near Rusty, our scarecrow. Don’t get me wrong! I love the tall, cut flower type of zinnias too, and I have planted plenty of them in our garden this year because they are the epitome of summer to me!
 
But I also fill our garden with profusion zinnias for guaranteed, non-stop color for several reasons.
 
1.They are disease resistant. We live in South Carolina where we have hot, humid summers and these plants don’t develop mildew and other high humidity diseases.
2.They thrive in the heat. Did I mention that I live in South Carolina? Oh, yeah. The summer heat is brutal here on humans as well as plants. Profusion zinnias not only take the heat, they thrive in it.
3.They are drought tolerant. I know, because many times I have forgotten to water some that were planted in containers. They bounce right back with a good drink of water.
4.They attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies.
5.They don’t need to be deadheaded to look attractive.
 
Profusion zinnias are great container plants. They grow to be about 12-13 inches tall and spread out at least a foot. Two tiny plants filled this container in no time.  Unlike other flowers, profusion zinnias don’t get “leggy” as the season continues. Their bushy growth habit is perfect for containers.
 
Profusion zinnias in a raised vegetable bed Profusion zinnias are great vegetable companions. I like to tuck them along the edges of our raised beds among the vegetables growing in them. When the vegetables are harvested and the plants are spent, you can pull them out and still have pretty flowers growing in the beds.
 
yellow Profusion zinnias
 
Here is a mound of pretty yellow ones tucked in our herb bed. One tiny plant grew into this gorgeous mound within about a month so be sure to allow space for them to grow.
 
Profusion zinnias not only do well in containers but they make great bedding plants. I’m going to plant some as a border in the beds in front of our house. Landscapers love profusion zinnias because they can create a large swath of color with them.
 
Profusion zinnias grown in a containerI would suggest, though, that you choose one color to use if you are using them in that way. I have noticed that the yellow and white ones grow slightly taller than the others.
 
•Space about 9-12 inches apart
•Use fertile, well-drained potting soil if planting in containers or amend the ground soil with organic matter
•Water early in the day at the roots rather than overhead
•Don’t overwater-they don’t like “wet feet”
•It is unnecessary to pinch them-they will bush out on their own
•Fertilize monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer
 
I hope you find a spot to fill with these award winning, sun loving, easy to grow profusion zinnias. They will brighten your world all summer long!
taken from https://cottageatthecrossroads.com/plant-profusion-zinnias-for-color-all-summer/
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net