image at Becky's Greenhouse

We are having rain and a good old summer thunderstorm.  How about you?  Looks red on the radar in Mason City and Osage. Charles City is green like us.  Stay safe. 

Good afternoon.  It was cloudy this morning, maybe a couple of sprinkles, sun just came out for a bit, now clouds moved back in.  There is a cold front moving in from the north.  We are to have some rain, and in places it might be heavy in North Central Iowa.  We will see what we get.  Stay dry, stay cool. 
Update:  It is raining hard here in Dougherty at 2:30PM  according to the radar we are just on the edge.  Wonder what is happening north and east of us Mason City, Osage are in the red on radar,  Charles City is like us just in the green color.   Coming down with lots of rain.  When these thunderstorms hit in the spring and early summer, I am in the greenhouse, and it sounds really loud on the plastic of the greenhouse.  Looking through the camera at the greenhouse, it is ponding a little so hopefully it will not flood the greenhouse. By 400 PM should be out of here.  How are you doing?  I will post this and what I was going to post I will post a little later that information. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from ar.inspiredpencil.com 

Did you know that counting crickets chirps can tell the outside temperature?  

GOOD day.  I am writing this at 1:00 PM.  I watered outside this morning and finally started planting some more pots for my summer garden.  I just can’t stop planting and growing.  How about you?  Have you been stopping and looking at garden centers for what they have, and you could use in your gardens?  How about harvesting from your garden?  There is so much to do outside and hope you are enjoying it with all the work you have done with planting, growing, watering and weeding.  Stay cool as it is cooler today, and humidity is less.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Friday August 7th again a chance of rain and a high of 59F(15C) Evelyn wrote that “We've had some rain overnight, which is good.”  I think this is part of their winter.  Rain which they need when summer comes, and it is so warm and dry.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
I just noticed that crickets were getting into the house which I thought means the summer and fall time.  Give this a try.  Something to share with the kids. Cracking the Cricket Code: Chirps to Temperature (°F & °C!)  Written By: Catherine Boeckmann
We all know the evening sound of a cricket. Did you know that the number of cricket chirps reports the temperature? It’s true!  Here, we explain how to use the “cricket thermometer” method, so next time there’s a warm evening you can count the cricket chirps!
The Cricket as a Thermometer
Crickets are cold-blooded and take on the temperature of their surroundings. In 1897, a scientist named Amos Dolbear published an article titled “The Cricket as a Thermometer” that noted the correlation between the ambient temperature and the rate at which crickets chirp.
The insects’ muscles contract to produce chirping based on chemical reactions. The warmer the temperature, the easier the cricket’s muscles activate, so the chirps increase. The cooler the temperature, the slower the reaction rate, and the less frequent the chirps are, the lower the chirp rate.
Cricket Temperature Formula
The formula expressed in that article became known as Dolbear’s Law. It’s surprisingly simple:
To Convert Cricket Chirps to Degrees Fahrenheit:
Just count the number of chirps in 14 seconds, then add 40 to get the temperature.
The number you get will be an approximation of the outside temperature.
Example: 30 chirps + 40 = 70°F
To Convert Cricket Chirps to Degrees Celsius:
Count the number of chirps in 25 seconds, divide by 3, then add 4 to get the temperature.
Example: 48 chirps /(divided by) 3 + 4 = 20°C
 Use the method you prefer and then convert to degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit using our temperature converter.
How Do Crickets Chirp?
So, how and why do crickets make that chirping sound, anyway?
Chirping is a cricket’s way of communicating. Male crickets use chirping to attract females, scare off other males, or warn of danger.
Contrary to popular belief, crickets do not use their legs to chirp! In fact, crickets produce the iconic sound by rubbing the edges of their wings together. The male cricket rubs a scraper (a sharp ridge on his wing) against a series of wrinkles, or “files,” on the other wing. The tone of the chirping depends upon the distance between the wrinkles.
It’s a little similar to the way you run your thumb against a comb.
There are several reasons why crickets chirp. They may be:
Calling to attract a female with a loud and monotonous sound.
Courting a nearby female with a quick, softer chirp.
Behaving aggressively during an encounter between two males.
Sounding a danger alert when sensing trouble.
Crickets are part of the family Orthoptera (grasshoppers and katydids). Enjoy more cricket facts and how to take care of crickets.
The Cricket Chirp Challenge
Next time you hear a cricket, test out its temperature-telling prowess and let us know how it goes!
Here’s a fun challenge:
Go outside in the evening if you know a place where crickets chirp (or have a pet cricket).
Bring a stopwatch (a mobile phone has one). Pick out the chirping sound of a single cricket.
Simply count the number of chirps in 14 seconds, then add 40 to get the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit. (Perhaps do this a few times, just to see if you’re getting the same number, and then take the average.)
Check the temperature on an outdoor thermometer. Is it close?
Try it again on a cooler evening. See how the chirp frequency changes.
Start to notice the chirps of the crickets when you’re outdoors. They’re Nature’s thermometer!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/predict-temperature-cricket-chirps?
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from Farmers' Almanac

One more planting. One more harvest. One more reason to love the garden.

​It is almost evening as I am posting this at 6:00 PM.  We did errands today, so just got to posting now.  Here is something I would like to do.  Plant vegetables for fall.  Put it on my list and see what I get done.  We got one tenth of inch of rain, south of US Highway 20 got lots more rain.  We are now in the cool front so very enjoyable out.  Hope to work all morning out in the greenhouse tomorrow and work on the LIST.  Just like you there is lots to do outside in our gardens, and when the weather is more enjoyable it is so much better to do.  Stay safe, and ENJOY.
 
Australia family and friends are having cold, frosty mornings but when the sun comes out it is very enjoyable for them. For their Thursday as it is now 9:00 AM. They will have a high of 59F(15C) with a breeze.  Sounds like an enjoyable day.  HOPE so enjoy and stay safe.
 
Here are some ideas of what to plant now for fall harvest of vegetables.  If you have the space, and the time give it a try. 
Best Vegetables to Plant for a Fall Garden
What to Plant in a Fall Garden: Cool-Weather Crops That Thrive Written By:  Robin Sweetser
Think fall is the end of the gardening season? Think again. Late summer is the perfect time to plant cool-weather crop plants like spinaches, lettuces, and radishes—many of which taste even better after a touch of frost. Our guide reveals the best vegetables to plant now for a second harvest that’s crisp, colorful, and delicious.
Albert Camus called autumn a second spring, and gardeners know why: cooler air, fewer bugs, and a fresh round of fast-growing greens. Discover which vegetables thrive in fall—and how to make the most of your garden’s encore performance.
Why Bother With a Fall Garden?
Every year at the farmers’ market, I do my best to talk folks into planting a fall garden. And every year, I get that same skeptical look, like I’m trying to sell them magic beans.
These are the gardeners who go all-in Memorial Day weekend—one big planting session, then done for the year. But here’s what I try to tell them: Summer might be winding down, but the garden sure doesn’t have to. Some of the best crops of the year are planted after the Fourth of July.
In many ways, fall gardening is easier than spring:
The soil’s already warm, so seeds sprout in a flash.
Insects have quieted down.
Weeds slow their takeover.
You don’t sweat through your shirt just trying to water.
The University of New Hampshire Extension sums it up nicely:
“From late July through August is actually a great time to sow many vegetables for a fall harvest. In some ways, it is easier than growing in the spring because there is less annual weed pressure, and many pest insects have already completed their life cycles.”
So, What Can You Plant?
In my neck of the woods (New Hampshire), our growing season is short—but we squeeze every last bit out of it. As soon as the garlic comes up in mid-July, we have trays of seedlings waiting in the wings: lettuce, bok choy, Chinese cabbage, kale.
 Quick-Grow Greens
Lettuce – Sow every 10 days or so for a steady harvest.
Spinach – Fall is its season. Spring-planted spinach bolts. Fall spinach thrives.
Swiss chard – A real trooper and just plain pretty.
Bok choy and Chinese cabbage – Grow fast and taste best in cool weather.
Kale – Keeps going after frost and actually tastes better for it.
Roots and Quick Picks
Radishes – Blink and you’ll miss the harvest—some are ready in just 25 days.
Carrots, beets, turnips – These take their time, but reward your patience with sweet, crisp roots.
Bush beans, cucumbers, and summer squash – A bit of a gamble, but worth it if frost holds off. Just have row covers handy.
baby summer squash
New baby summer squash will replace the tired plants that have been producing since early summer.
Fall gardening is less about starting over—and more about making the most of what the garden’s already given you.
What Makes a Good Fall Crop?
In general, look for:  Vegetables that mature quickly
Crops that can handle (or love) the cold
Can take a light frost (30–32°F):
Beets, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, celery, collards, green onions, leaf and Bibb lettuce, mustard, parsnips, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard
Can survive harder freezes (down to 20°F):
Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, kale, leeks, rutabagas, turnips
Some vegetables—like parsnips and collards—get even sweeter after a hard frost. That’s nature’s version of seasoning.
When to Plant Fall Crops
This part takes a little counting—but nothing you can’t do on a seed packet and a calendar. Here’s the rough math:
Find your first fall frost date using our Frost Date Calculator.
Count backward from that date based on your crop’s “days to maturity.”
Add 7 to 14 days as a buffer—plants grow slower in cooler weather.
Add 7 to 10 days for harvest time.
Example: If your seed packet says 60 days to maturity and your first frost is October 10, aim to plant by early August.
Weeks Before Frost        Plant These
10–12 weeks     Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots
8–10 weeks        Arugula, Chinese cabbage, kale, lettuce, mustard, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips
6–8 weeks          Beets, radishes
Getting a second season started: Lettuce seedlings go into warm summer soil to grow crisp and sweet before fall frost. Credit: Alexander Raths
Fall Garden Tips From the Field
Mulch your root crops before the ground freezes solid. Even if the tops die back, the roots stay protected.
Succession-plant fast crops like lettuce or radishes every 10–14 days.
Refresh your soil with compost or a touch of fertilizer. Second crops still need good nutrition.
Water deeply—but less often. Roots will go deeper in fall.
Row covers help hold in warmth and keep critters out.
growing greens in the autumn
Use row covers if the sun’s still too strong—or to protect from early frosts.
Watch Out for Fall Pests
Of course, it isn’t all as rosy as some of the gardening books would like you to think. While most garden pests slow down in fall, a few stubborn stragglers remain. Keep an eye out for pests that eat tender sprouts and leafy greens.
Slugs (especially after a rain)
Cabbage worms
Cutworms hiding in the mulch
A quick walk through the garden every morning goes a long way in catching trouble early.
Be sure to protect your young plants. One method is to make little plant collars out of aluminum foil or to cover the seedlings with cloches at night. Or just pick off any pests you see and drop them in soapy water (check the undersides of leaves too). See our advice on slugs, cabbage worms, and cutworms.
 An unseen cabbage moth laid her eggs on my new kale plants in a hit-and-run fashion. (I thought it was too late in the season for that, but wrong again!)
That said, there are definitely fewer pests in the cool fall than in the summer, so that’s another advantage!
The Garden Isn’t Finished Yet
There’s something special about harvesting a bunch of rainbow chard or baby carrots when everyone else has packed up their tools for the year. Fall gardening may not be flashy, but it’s peaceful, productive, and—dare I say—delicious.
So don’t hang up your hoe just yet. There’s still time. Still warmth in the soil. Still a second spring waiting to bloom.
One more planting. One more harvest. One more reason to love the garden.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/best-vegetables-fall-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse
image from the Farmer's Almanac

image from Becky's kitchen

​So, this is what I started with ear of corn, and what I ended up with in the vacuum-packed corn.  It was fun to use it and will do more.  I have heard from you, and lots have done their corn all ready.  GOOD JOB.  It will taste good this winter.  Becky Litterer

images from Becky's kitchen

I am getting corn ready for freezing. Have you done some yet?  

​I am showing what I am doing this afternoon.  I was given some sweet corn, so husked it, cleaned it up, blanched it, and now cut it up.  I was given a vacuum pack food sealer for Christmas.  I am finally trying it out.  It doesn’t look too hard.  I will post pictures of the finished corn after I get the rest of the corn cut off.  I have had this corn tool for this corn tool.  Here is what it is called.  The corn tool from Pampered Chef that removes kernels from the cob is called the Kernel Cutter Pampered Chef. It’s also sometimes referred to as a corn stripper or corn cutter in general kitchen contexts Resto NYC. The Pampered Chef version (Item #1114) features a curved, serrated stainless steel blade for quickly slicing kernels off the cob, plus a plastic husker blade to slice through corn silks and husks. The large ergonomic handle makes it easy to grip and maneuver, and it’s dishwasher-safe with a protective storage cover including Pampered Chef. 
I belong to a canning group on Facebook, and I have been seeing pictures of the gardeners canning the corn in jar.  But personally, we like frozen sweet corn.  There is nothing like Iowa Sweet Corn, and for all that have had it they are enjoying it.  It is cloudy and cool out I really should be out to the greenhouse planting some more of my summer garden.  But it is to be raining, so thought I would do this instead.  I enjoy the process of preserving food as much as I love to plant.   Larry doesn’t mind all that I do.  It makes good home-cooked meals. 
How about you?  Have you been working up corn?  Green beans? Beets?  To do peas, you need so many peas to be able to freeze them.  I remember mom having clothes baskets full of peas and we would have to shuck them in early summer.  You see, family tradition, every Sunday she would have fried chicken, peas, mashed potatoes with gravy.  She would spend Saturday making bread and coffee cakes.    Shared a memory of my growing up.  What is a memory of yours about your mom in the garden, processing food and then serving it for meals?   I better get this job finished. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from freepik.com 

More information about harvesting more vegetables.  This is why you have a garden.  ENJOY what you have planted. 

​Good morning, we had a shower this morning but just to get the blacktop wet.  Hopefully more this afternoon and tonight.  I think we are in the ¼” to ½”.  Further south it is predicted to have more rain.  We are in the cool part of the cold front, so see what happens.  I am looking for rain, so I don’t have to water. Summer thunderstorms are like this, not everyone will get that big amount of rain.  Stay cool, stay dry. 
 
Australia family and friends  looks like a cool day with a high of 55F(13C) and 95% chance of rain. Evelyn says rain is good to have before spring and then hot summer comes for them.  Sept 1st is their first day of Spring.  Hard for me to get that when September is our fall time.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
I had good response when I shared about harvesting vegetables yesterday. Over 5800 in three different places I post this.  So, with that in mind, I am adding more vegetables when they are ready to harvest.  What I was surprised by is picking daily and if you had this large garden I can see it would take that commitment daily to harvest.  Now I understand why my mom was in the garden all the time when I was growing up. 
Harvest at Peak Ripeness: Cues, Timing, and Techniques for Maximum Flavor and Yield
By National Gardening Association,
Why Harvest Matters
One of the biggest benefits of growing your own vegetables is that you can harvest them when they are perfectly ripe and at peak flavor and nutrition. No need to worry about tomatoes picked half ripe for shipping or corn that sat in a produce bin for a week. But how do you know when the perfect picking point has arrived? Each crop is a little different, and learning what to look for will help you enjoy your garden's bounty at its most flavorful and nutritious.
Picking your vegetables at the right stage of maturity not only makes them more flavorful, but more nutritious too. Some vegetables have no flavor if picked too early and others are tough and stringy if allowed to get overly ripe. Regular harvesting at the proper stage also keeps many of your plants producing the biggest harvest. If overripe fruits are allowed to develop on plants like cucumbers, beans, and summer squash, the developing seeds inside them send a signal to the plants that their reproduction is assured and they can stop producing new flowers and fruit. This is why succession picking, discussed below, is so important.
 
Ripeness indicators vary by crop, but here are the universal signals to watch for:
Color: Ripe fruits and vegetables often show color change (tomatoes turn red, peppers shift to their mature color, melons show tan netting).
Firmness: Gently press the produce. Ripe fruit yields slightly to pressure without feeling mushy.
Aroma: Many ripe vegetables (especially melons and stone fruits) emit a sweet fragrance.
Size: Most vegetables are best at a specific size (6 to 8 inch cucumbers, pencil-thin green beans).
Taste: When in doubt, have a taste. Munch on a carrot, pea, or bean. If it tastes good, pick it. (Some vegetables, such as winter squash, need cooking before the flavor shines.)
Best Time of Day to Harvest
The best time to harvest is in the morning or evening when it is cool. Not only is it easier on you, the moisture levels in the vegetables will be higher and the flavor better. For best taste, pick right before cooking or serving. Cool off vegetables by placing them in the refrigerator after harvest to prolong their storage life.
Handling and Technique
Handle fruits with care: bruised or damaged vegetables will not last as long in your refrigerator or storage area. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut most fruits and vegetables rather than pulling, which can damage the plant. For example, cut eggplants, peppers, and winter squash; pull or dig carrots and root crops gently. Always avoid harvesting when plants are wet, as diseases such as bean rust can easily be spread by your clothing rubbing against wet foliage.
Apples
The best way to decide when an apple is ripe is observation and sampling. Take a bite. If the apple is juicy and tastes good it is ready. Color can be helpful, but some varieties turn red long before they are mature. Pick all similar appearing apples, leaving less ripe ones to more fully ripen. To store apples, loosely wrap them in newspaper, making sure apples do not touch each other. If stored in a cool, dark space they can be kept for up to five months.
Beans (Bush and Snap)
Harvest snap beans when they are no bigger in diameter than a pencil, before the seeds swell in the pods. Harvest daily because the beans will quickly get past their prime. Start harvesting about 2 to 3 weeks after bloom.
Beets
If you pick beets when they are only 1 to 1.5 inches in diameter, you can cook the roots and healthful greens together. For the most tender harvest, pick more mature beets when they are 3 inches in diameter or less. Generally, harvest when beets are 1 to 3 inches wide.
Broccoli
Harvest when the heads are still tight and green. When they loosen and turn yellowish they are past their prime. After cutting the central head, the plant will produce harvestable side shoots.
Brussels Sprouts
Harvest when sprouts reach 1 inch wide and are tight and firm.
Cabbage
Harvest cabbage when the head is firm and almost full. Using a knife, cut just at the base of the head. Leave roots and a few leaves on the plant and a second crop of smaller cabbages may grow on the stem.
Cantaloupe and Muskmelon
Muskmelons will not get sweeter after they are harvested, so do not rush to pick them. Check fruits every other day. Varieties with netted rinds should be harvested when the rind turns tan, they have a nice aroma, and the fruit stem just starts to slip easily away from the fruit. When the stem slips easily and the netting is even, the melon is at its best. See Growing Melons for more information.
Carrots
Pull or dig up carrots as the weather cools down. When tops are 1 inch wide is a good size indicator. Be careful digging or pulling them out so that you do not scrape or break them. Mulch late maturing carrots heavily and they can be harvested into the early winter months.
Cauliflower
When the heads reach 2 to 3 inches in diameter, pull up and tie the outer leaves around the developing head to blanch it. When heads are about 4 inches across, check them daily and harvest while they are still smooth and hard, before the bud segments begin to separate. The heads should not be ricey (florets splitting apart).
Corn
The ears are ready when the silks are dry and brown, usually about 3 weeks after the silks first appear. If you pull back the husks at the tip and pinch a kernel, you should see a milky, not watery, liquid squirt out. Kernels should be milky when cut. Pick in the morning for the best flavor.
Cucumbers
Harvest frequently; cukes are ready anytime after the flower drops off the end of the fruit. The best size for slicing is usually about 6 to 8 inches long. For pickling varieties, harvest when at least 2 inches long. Pick overripe fruits to keep vines producing. After plants have set fruit, remove side shoots to send the plant's energy to the fruit. It will help them grow faster and larger. Pinch off the ends of the vines about two weeks before the first frost date to allow the fruit on the plant to mature before the frost.
Dill
Clip fresh foliage throughout the season or refrigerate for two to three days in plastic bags. To harvest seeds, cut off flower heads when dry and light brown. Collect in a paper bag. Store thoroughly dry seeds in airtight, dark glass jars.
Eggplant
Harvest when the skin is smooth and shiny. When you press on the eggplant lightly, the flesh should bounce back. Cut fruiting stems with pruners and never pull from the bush.
Garlic
Harvest garlic when most of the plant's leaves have turned brown. Do not leave garlic bulbs in the ground for more than two weeks after the leaves have browned because their papery coverings will deteriorate and the bulbs will eventually break apart, reducing storage life.
Kohlrabi
Harvest when 2 to 3 inches wide.
Leeks
Harvest when the stalks are at least 1.5 inches in diameter.
Lettuce and Greens
Young greens such as lettuce, mesclun, kale, mustard, and Swiss chard can be picked as soon as they are large enough to eat. Harvest while leaves are tender. Greens can be picked as baby greens or at full size.
Okra
Harvest pods when they are 2 to 4 inches long; older pods will not be as tender. Use scissors to cut pods from plants, leaving a short stem. Do not refrigerate picked pods or they will turn black.
Onions (Bulbing)
Harvest onions for storage when most of the tops have yellowed and fallen over naturally. Cure the onions by spreading them out in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot until their skins are papery and the tops are completely dry. Scallions and onions for fresh use can be harvested whenever they reach usable size.
Parsnips
Dig up roots after cold weather. Alternatively, mulch plants heavily with straw to stay in the ground for harvest throughout the winter. In very cold areas, leave parsnips in the ground to dig up in the spring, before growth begins. Harvest when roots reach desired size; they are best after a light frost.
Peppers
Cut peppers off the plant at mid-stem using a sharp knife or pruning shears. Trying to pull peppers off the plant can break the branch and reduce yield for the season. For the best yield, pick the first set of peppers when they are green, then let the next set ripen to their mature color and size. This tricks the plant into thinking that it has produced too few peppers, so it then produces more. Keep the yield strong by picking peppers as soon as they reach their mature color, rather than letting them age on the plant. Harvest when fruits reach desired size and color.
Potatoes
In the summer, harvest tiny new potatoes as soon as your plants bloom by searching the soil with your fingers to locate them. The main harvest is ready when the tops of the plants turn yellow and die back. Use any nicked potatoes immediately. For long-term storage, cure potatoes for 10 to 14 days in a dark location with high humidity at 55 to 60 degrees F; then store at 40 to 45 degrees F in a location with good ventilation and moderate humidity.
Radishes
Harvest when roots are up to 1.25 inches wide.
Shallots
Harvest when tops wither and turn brown.
Spinach
Harvest when leaves are still tender.
Summer Squash (Zucchini, Yellow Squash)
Summer squash are most tender when about 2 inches in diameter and 6 to 8 inches long. Pick when the skin is glossy and soft enough to be easily pierced with your thumbnail. Check plants every day or two and harvest regularly to keep them producing and to keep fruits from becoming large and tough. Use a sharp knife to cut the stem about one inch above the fruit, leaving that short piece of stem attached to extend storage life. If the harvest gets away from you, oversized squash are still good pureed in soup or grated for sweet breads.
Sweet Potatoes
Begin harvesting smaller tubers as soon as they reach usable size. Those that remain will continue to grow. Harvest the final crop before fall cold sets in as a sudden cold snap will kill the plants and can damage the tubers. Start digging a foot out from the main plant to avoid damaging tubers. Flavor improves with storage. Cure them at 80 to 85 degrees F for two weeks before storing them at 55 to 60 degrees F. Harvest when they reach adequate size, before a frost.
Tomatillos
This staple of Mexican cuisine is ready for harvesting when the husk that surrounds the fruit becomes papery and turns from green to straw colored and the husks begin to break open. Tomatillos will keep for several weeks stored in a paper bag in the refrigerator.
Tomatoes
For the best flavor, pick the fruits after they have fully ripened on the plant. Pick up and wash dropped fruits. Harvest tomatoes when fully colored, but before the skin loses its waxy smoothness. If frost threatens, pick all fruit and ripen indoors or use green tomatoes. Green or ripe tomatoes can be frozen for use in cooking throughout the winter. Tomatoes do not ripen well when the temperature is above 85 degrees F, so if a heat wave hits, pick nearly ripe fruits and finish ripening them indoors out of direct sun.
Turnips
Harvest turnip greens with a sharp knife as soon as they are tall enough. Pull roots by grasping plants at the base of the leaves. Turnips are best when harvested when the roots reach between two and three inches in diameter. Turnips will keep best when harvested before a heavy frost. Store the turnips in a cool place in boxes of damp sawdust or sand. Greens can be frozen. Winter crops harvested after frost have best flavor. In mild climates, plant in fall and grow over winter.
Watermelons
Harvest melons when their curly tendrils are brown and shriveled and the fruit sounds hollow when tapped. The light spot on the underside of the melon will be yellow, not white or light green, when watermelon is ready.
Winter Squash and Pumpkins
Harvest when the shells harden, before a frost. Cut fruits from the vines with clean, sharp pruners (or a small saw for large pumpkins) when the rinds are hard enough that they cannot be dented with a fingernail, and leave one inch of stem attached to the fruit. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the prickly stems and leaf undersides. If you have a problem with rotting squash, place young fruits on boards to keep them off the ground; small cans with the top and bottom removed also work.
Special Case: Stone Fruits (Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines)
Stone fruits have unique harvesting requirements. They will not get sweeter after harvest, so timing is critical.
Don't Overwater
Most home gardeners tend to overwater their fruit trees, especially as fruits mature. Research shows that reduced watering four to six weeks before harvest results in smaller, but tastier fruits. A gradual reduction in the amount of water a tree receives during this period will increase the fruits' sugar content without affecting texture. Sugar content correlates to the perception of flavorful fruit. However, reduce water carefully: if you overdo it, instead of improving your fruit, you will stress the tree and diminish overall fruit quality.
Don't Hurry Harvest
For the best flavor, leave fruits on the branches as long as possible to maximize the ratio of sugar to acid. The fruit is at its peak ripeness when the flesh yields to gentle pressure.
Pick from the Top
For the highest quality fruits, go straight to the top of the tree. Research evaluating sugar content, acidity, size, and appearance of fruits picked from various parts of trees discovered that the fruits at the top and outer edges of the trees not only matured earliest but were the largest and most flavorful.
Extending Your Harvest: Succession Picking
One of the most productive harvesting techniques is succession picking: picking immature vegetables regularly rather than waiting for all fruits to mature at once. This works especially well for beans, summer squash, cucumbers, broccoli, peppers, and many greens.
When you harvest beans, cucumbers, or summer squash as soon as they reach usable size (even if small), the plant senses that it has not yet completed its reproductive cycle. This tricks the plant into producing more flowers and fruit, extending your harvest by weeks. By contrast, if you leave vegetables on the plant to fully mature, the developing seeds signal the plant that reproduction is complete, and flowering slows or stops.
Harvest daily, if possible. Young greens, such as lettuce, mesclun, kale, mustard, and Swiss chard can be picked as soon as they are large enough to eat. Vegetables such as bush beans, summer squash, cucumbers, and broccoli will keep producing after the initial harvest, providing food for weeks. Pick when the fruit is young and tender for the best flavor and nutrition.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/4647/Harvest-at-Peak-Ripeness-Cues-Timing-and-Techniques-for-Maximum-Flavor-and-Yield/?utm_source=nl&utm_medium=mail&utm_campaign=nl_2026-07-25
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse
​image from freepik.com 

image from freepik.com 

image from freepik.com 

image from freepik.com 

Now is the time to harvest tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.  Here are some helpful hints. One thing I learned that tomatoes will not ripen when temperatures are above 86F.  

WOW I just wrote August 2nd.   I can’t believe that it is August now.  I just spent 4 hours out in the greenhouse area, watering and moving plants.  I wanted to put the potting table more into the shade so I can plant later today.  I have wagons of plants here that look good.  I have had gardeners come to get some plants for plant replacement.  I will be gone on Wed morning, but I think the rest of the week I will be around.  If not outside, I will come over when I see you on the camera you are there.  You can still find plants to add to your garden and perennials, herbs, annuals, vegetables are on sale for $2.00 each. I still have trees and shrubs.  Both are looking good to be planted in your gardens.
How is your garden doing?  It has been lots of watering and caring for the garden this season.  I know you are harvesting cucumbers, peppers and maybe the start of tomatoes.  Here is a little information on harvesting them.  Stay cool, stay safe. And looks like it will rain tomorrow night so stay dry. 
 
Australia family and friends for their Tuesday Aug 5th will have rainy conditions around 3PM and wind gusts up to 12 mph.  Cold, wet and a little nasty for them.  Stay dry, stay warm, stay safe.
 
This season has been good for peppers.  Lots of gardeners are having good luck with peppers.  There is some problems with tomatoes.  Not the lush green plants that we are used to growing.  Hope they are setting on fruit for you.  Nothing like that fresh tomato to eat.    
How to Grow and Care for Peppers
The brilliant hues and full-bodied flavors of peppers have assured them a central role in many of the world's cuisines.
The glistening greens of the leaves and the rainbow of colors of the ripening peppers -- red, yellow, orange, green, brown or purple -- make pepper plants an ornamental, as well as delicious, addition to the garden. Sweet bell peppers go well with just about anything and are wonderful eaten right out of the garden, while the hotter varieties spice up many recipes. Stuffed peppers, pickled peppers, fried peppers -- peppers fit in, deliciously, everywhere. Peppers like warmth, so wait to plant until the soil and air temperature has warmed up reliably.
Most peppers, except for a few varieties like Sweet Banana, are green when young. Though bell peppers come in many colors, such as red, yellow, and purple, you can eat any of them in the green stage. However, they are sweeter if you let them ripen until the color is fully developed. Harvest by cutting through the stem of each fruit with a knife or with pruners. The stems of peppers are brittle, so cutting is safer than pulling by hand.
Hot peppers will develop more heat as they turn to their mature color, so if you want spicy peppers, let them ripen completely on the plant. Sweet peppers can be harvested green or at their mature color; mature red, orange, yellow or colored peppers have higher vitamin C content than green peppers.
You can have an almost-continuous harvest from your pepper plants by cutting often, as this encourages the plant to keep blossoming, especially in the beginning of the summer.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/howto/grow/peppers/
 
Ripening and Harvesting Tomatoes  By National Gardening Association Editors
One of the great joys of gardening is reaching for the first red-ripe tomato on the vine and biting into it. There is a flavor, juiciness and pleasure you'll never find in a supermarket tomato. Because tomatoes ripen from the inside out, when the outer skin is firm and red, you know you've got a beautiful ripe one.
 The red color of tomatoes won't form when temperatures are above 86F . So, if you live where the summers get quite hot, leaving tomatoes on the vine may give them a yellowish orange look. It's probably better to pick them in the pink stage and let them ripen indoors in cooler temperatures.
Tomatoes need warmth, not light, to ripen, so there's no need to put them on a sunny windowsill. Place them out of direct sunlight -- even in a dark cupboard -- where the temperature is 65 to 70F.
Tomatoes succumb to frost, but don't panic when the weatherman predicts the first one and your tomato vines are still loaded with green fruit. If it's going to be a light frost, you can protect the plants overnight by covering them with old sheets, plastic, burlap bags or big boxes. It's usually worth the effort because the second frost is often two or three weeks after the first one.
If a heavy freeze is on its way, go out and pick all the tomatoes. Green tomatoes that have reached about 3/4 of their full size and show some color will eventually ripen, and smaller, immature green ones can be pickled or cooked green.
Some people like to pull up the whole tomato plant and hang it upside down in a dark basement room and let the tomatoes ripen gradually. If you try this system, check them regularly to prevent very ripe fruits from falling onto the floor -- splaat!
Another method is to put unripe tomatoes on a shelf and cover them with sheets of newspaper. Every few days check under the newspaper and remove ripe fruits or any that have begun to rot. The newspaper covering helps trap a natural ethylene gas that tomatoes give off, which hastens ripening. Some people wrap each tomato individually, but this causes a lot of work when you want to check for ripe tomatoes: You have to open each one! You can also place tomatoes in a paper bag with an apple or banana. The fruits give off ethylene gas, which helps to speed the tomatoes' ripening process.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/374/Ripening-and-Harvesting-Tomatoes/?
 
When to pick cucumbers
Pick cucumbers when they reach the ideal size for their variety, have firm, glossy skin, and the bloom at the tip has shriveled or dropped.
Cucumbers should be harvested based on variety and size: slicing cucumbers are typically ready at 6–9 inches, pickling cucumbers at 2–5 inches, and burpless cucumbers around 10 inches or longer.  Look for bright, glossy skin; some varieties, like lemon cucumbers, turn yellow when ripe. Avoid cucumbers that are dull, overly soft, or have started to yellow (unless that is the variety’s natural color), as they may be overripe and bitter
Check the bloom at the tip: if it is still fully attached, the cucumber is not ready. Once the bloom shrivels or drops, the fruit is mature.  Cucumbers grow quickly, so inspect your plants daily to catch them at peak freshness.
Harvesting Technique  Use clean shears or scissors to cut cucumbers from the vine rather than pulling them, which can damage the plant
 Harvest in the cool morning hours for the best crispness and flavor. Regular picking encourages the plant to produce more fruit, increasing overall yield
Variety Considerations
Slicing cucumbers: Crisp and ideal for salads, ready at 6–9 inches
Pickling cucumbers: Smaller, bumpy, perfect for canning, 2–5 inches
Burpless cucumbers: Thinner skin, easier to digest, often 10 inches or longer
Specialty cucumbers: Lemon, English, and Japanese varieties may have unique colors, lengths, or growth habits, so check seed packets for guidance
Tips for a Healthy Harvest
Monitor growth: Cucumbers grow rapidly with adequate water, so frequent checks prevent overripe fruit.   Plant support: Trellises help long varieties like English and Japanese cucumbers grow straight and stay clean
By following these steps, you can ensure crisp, flavorful cucumbers and maintain the health of your plants for continued harvests.  All food for thought.
Taken from co pilot
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from flowermag.com 

How to use Hydrangeas in bouquets?

​WOW have you been outside?  It is cool, sun is out and humidity is down.  Lovely summer morning.  We will take it.  We got ¾” of rain.  How about you?  Looks like weekend will be mild, and ending up in the 80’s for next week.  We will take it and ENJOY. 
 
Australia family and friends for their weekend will have 32F(0C)  I would suppose they would have frost.   This might be one of the coldest mornings for them, but then it warms up to 63F(17C).  Stay warm, stay safe and enjoy your Sunday. 
 
I am working on bouquets for myself, and taking some to church, so will be posting what I find out about what to use in them and how to take care of them?  I have always enjoyed this part of gardening but just did it and didn’t know much about how to do it.  I think the biggest thing I have learned is to take off the leaves and just have a stem.   I will share what I find out.  Starting with how to use hydrangeas in bouquets. 
 
How to Use Hydrangeas in Bouquets
Hydrangeas are voluminous, long-lasting focal flowers that work beautifully in bouquets, from bridal arrangements to seasonal décor. Their large, soft blooms and adaptability in color make them versatile for any style.
1. Selecting and Prepping Hydrangeas
Choose firm stems with tightly packed blooms and green foliage; avoid stems with brown tips or soft florets. Cut stems at a 45° angle under running water to maximize water absorption. Remove lower leaves to prevent bacterial growth and direct water flow to the blooms. For extra freshness, submerge stems in warm water for 30 minutes before arranging.
2. Materials for Your Bouquet
Hydrangea stems (3–5 for a full bouquet).Complementary flowers: roses, lisianthus, or baby’s breath for contrast and texture .
Greenery: eucalyptus, ferns, or ruscus for depth and framing hydrangea..
Sharp floral scissors and floral tape for secure binding.
Decorative ribbon and corsage pins for a polished finish.
Clean vase with fresh water and floral preservative .
3. Arranging the Bouquet
Start with hydrangeas as the centerpiece, placing them evenly in the vase for balance.
Add complementary flowers and greenery around or between hydrangea stems to create layers.
Use floral tape to bind stems securely, then hide it with ribbon and pins.
For bridal or boutonniere styles, keep stems shorter and more compact, focusing on symmetry.
4. Keeping Hydrangeas Fresh
Use lukewarm water with floral preservative and 1 tsp sugar per quart to boost hydration.
Change water every 2–3 days and top up as needed.
Keep the bouquet in a cool, shaded spot away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
Avoid misting petals, as excess moisture can cause bacterial growth.
5. Design Tips
Color coordination: pair hydrangeas with roses for romance, or with ranunculus for a modern look. Seasonal use: hydrangeas can be arranged year-round, as they adapt to various color palettes. Shape: hydrangeas’ round clusters work well in round or asymmetrical bouquets; for a more structured look, mix with linear flowers like lisianthus.
By preparing stems properly, choosing the right complements, and maintaining optimal hydration, you can create long-lasting, stunning hydrangea bouquets that stay fresh and beautiful for days.
Taken from co-pilot
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse
image from flowermag.com 

image form tenax.net this is trellis netting, that the plants will grow up through it and keep a straight stem.  

How to grow the False Queen's Anne Lace.  What is trellis netting?  

​Friday afternoon. Cloudy, and even a little moisture.  We had rain early morning, and this morning.  69F(20C) which is mild and so much better than 90F.  Looks like raining more, and then the temperature tomorrow and next week looks cooler.  We are on the north side of the heat dome which is in Missouri and south in Texas.  I am sorry for all that heat.   Stay dry, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Saturday will be having this.  Evelyn wrote,” junior soccer and footy over the weekend, which also makes the weekend fly by.”  Partly cloudy sky with a high of 59F(15C)  Enjoy your Saturday. 
 
I found an article on how to grow Ammi which is False Queen Anne’s Lace.  Interesting  on how to grow. 
How to Grow: Ammi (False Queen Anne's Lace)
One of the biggest “newbie” flower gardening mistakes I see is not growing enough “filler” type flowers for bouquets.
 
I know, I know… it’s easy to get starry eyed over all those big blooming “focal” flowers, like Sunflowers, Zinnias and Dahlias… but a bouquet made with only big focal flowers can easily look a tad gaudy and overpowering.
In order to have well balanced bouquets and arrangements with visual interest, it’s important to grow some flowers whose soul purpose is to complement and enhance the focal flowers.
Ammi (False Queen Anne’s Lace) does this beautifully. It looks great with almost any type of flower and adds some much needed volume, texture and whimsy.
You may have noticed the wild Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota) growing in meadows and roadsides. Another name for this plant is Wild Carrot, and yes, if you pull up the root, you’ll see and smell that it is indeed a white carrot!
For floral use, though, most people prefer to grow the more sophisticated and cultivated varieties of Ammi, which are related to wild Queen Anne’s Lace.
Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Ammi for cut flower use.
PROS
They are fairly easy to grow.
They are versatile in bouquets and arrangements.
They attract pollinators.
They will reseed themselves, if you allow them to.
CONS
They are not the longest blooming flower. You’ll need to plant them a few times over the spring/summer to have a continual harvest.
They should be netted to keep them from falling over.
They have irritating sap that can cause contact dermatitis when harvested on a sunny day (more about this later!). 
There are 3 main categories of Ammi that are used for floral work.
1. Ammi majus: This type most closely resembles wild Queen Anne’s Lace - light, airy and delicate. On our farm, this type does best in the spring/early summer.
2. Ammi visnaga: This type is much more robust and fuller than Ammi majus. It also tends to be more green than white. This type is sturdy and adds lots of structure to bouquets. Unfortunately, it also has a distinct smell that some people don’t like. On our farm, this type blooms well even in the heat of summer and into fall.
3. Dara/Daucus carota: Technically not “Ammi”, you’ll often find this in seed catalogs under the Ammi category. This type is a unique variety of wild carrot. The blooms come in a range of pink, purple and white. I’ve seen all sorts of names for this flower (no one seems to know exactly what to call it!), so search for “Dara”, “Ammi dara”, “Daucus”, “Daucus carota”, “False Queen Anne’s Lace”, “Chocolate Queen Anne’s Lace”, “Ornamental Carrot”, “Chocolate Flower”  and even “Chocolate Lace Flower”!
Here are a few of my favorite Ammi to grow for cut flower use:
“White Dill” (Ammi majus)
“Graceland” (Ammi majus)
“Green Mist” (Ammi visnaga)
“Dara” (Daucus carota)
HOW TO SOW
Ammi generally prefers cooler weather and really shines in the spring/early summer. While it can handle warm days, it wants cool nights. 
The plants are quite cold hardy and can handle some frost.
If you live in a warm climate, sow the seeds in the fall and they will take off early next spring. If you live in a cold climate, sow the seeds as early as you can in the spring (when the soil has thawed).
Transplants or Direct Sow?
Ammi can be transplanted or direct sown.
Transplants should be sown indoors 4-6 weeks before you plant them out. Keep the seeds in the fridge or freezer for 2 weeks before sowing (this mimics winter weather).
Remember, they want cold nights, so if you are using heat mats for your seedlings, be sure to turn off the heat at night or remove the tray at night. They can be transplanted out BEFORE the threat of frost is over, since they are cold hardy.
If you don’t want to mess around with moving trays every day (I don’t!!!), then simply direct sow when you want them to grow as early in the spring as possible.
Ammi prefers to be direct sown, so this method is the simplest and easiest. You might as well save yourself some time and growing space, and simply direct sow the seeds!
PLANT SPACING
Ammi can be grown at 3-12” spacing… so if you direct sowed and your plants are crowded, don’t fret.
I find Dara needs the least amount of spacing (grows very upright), Ammi majus needs about 6-9” spacing, and Ammi vignaga does better at 12” spacing (widely branching plants).
Netting is helpful, as plants will grow 36” or more. We use Hortonova trellis netting stretched tight over the bed with stakes.
Yup. It’s a real pain harvesting those stems in the netting… But it’s better than having the plants falling over! Hint: Pull the stem down through the netting, not up.
Update: Recently, we switched to using “cattle panel support” pictured below for growing Ammi and Dara… and it is a GAME CHANGER. You can learn how we make the “cattle panel supports” in this blog post.
GROWING ON
Ammi is not a particularly long lasting flower in the field. Don’t expect it to bloom all summer long. 
In order to harvest Ammi longer, I like to plant 2 successions of Ammi majus (spring/early summer blooming) 2-3 weeks apart, followed by 2 successions of Ammi visnaga (summer/fall blooming) 2-3 weeks apart.
Dara seems to do better as a spring/early summer blooming plant, but occasionally I can get some to bloom into the fall.
STAGE OF HARVEST
Recognizing the correct stage of harvest for Ammi can be a little tricky.
Harvest too early, and they will droop over and never recover.
It’s better to err on the side of too mature than too early. Fortunately, even if you harvest them too mature, they still look beautiful with their seed pods.
Take a look at the bloom. If it is flat or concave (sides higher than center), it is not ready.
If the bloom is domed or convex (sides lower than center), then it’s ready!
20190801_135100.jpg
When you cut a stem of Ammi, sap will come out of the cut end. Do NOT allow this sap to come into contact with your skin, especially on a sunny day. Ammi can cause contact dermatitis on some people, called Phytophotodermatitis, a reaction caused by contact with a plant sap/substance that reacts to sunlight.
When the sap gets on your skin and is exposed to the sun, it can cause burns and blisters. While usually not painful, it can cause scarring that lasts for months. Usually, I wear long pants, long sleeves and gloves when harvesting (AND harvest it before sunrise or after sunset), but on this one day, we had to harvest it 9am and it was 90+ degrees. I learned a hard lesson to always wear long pants/sleeves, even when it’s suffocating (and this is exactly why farm workers wear long pants/sleeves when harvesting carrots, celery and other plants).
The blisters were not painful, but I had scars/dark patches on my legs/forearms for about 3 months.
POST HARVEST CARE
Immediately upon harvest, allow the Ammi to rest in a bucket of water in a cool, dark place.
After resting overnight, stems should be ready for arranging!
Taken from https://www.threeacrefarm.net/blog/2020/1/17/how-to-grow-ammi-false-queen-annes-lace
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from tenax.net

image from mygardenlife.com 

What is False Queen's Anne Lace?  

Good afternoon.  I started this posting this morning but there were lots of interruptions.  Now back to it.  It is cloudy outside, which helps with the level of heat.  Temperature still is 80f(2C). Early tomorrow morning it will rain and suppose to rain all day.  One inch of rain is predicted which we need with the extreme heat we have been having.  Cold front moving in, so might be some severe weather with that.  See what happens but the temperature is to be 69F(20C).  That will seem cold won’t it.  Stay cool today, stay dry tomorrow and be safe.
 
Australia family and friends for July 31, Friday will have high of 57F(14C) and chance of rain too.  Stay warm, stay dry, and stay safe.
 
One of the postings I talked about plants to use in floral arrangements, and False Queen’s Anne Lace was mentioned.  One of the gardeners asked what that was, and I had to research it to find out.  Tomorrow I will post on how to grow it if you want it for those floral arrangements.
It may not be a true “royal”, but there’s no denying this flower’s regal appeal. Coveted by designers for its delicate and airy, lace-like looks, Ammi comprises a group of herbaceous perennials (or sometimes biennials) that are oftentimes mistaken for their more “royal” cousin (Daucus carota, or Queen Anne’s Lace). Since their flowers look almost identical, Ammi is commonly referred to as false Queen Anne’s Lace, but there’s nothing false about this plant’s beauty and inviting charm.
Endemic to Egypt’s Nile River Valley, the Mediterranean and Southwest Asia, the Ammi genus includes about seven species of flowering herbs that are members of the Apiaceae (carrot) family. Most cultivars used by designers today are derived from Ammi majus, whose origins trace back to around 2,000 B.C. Historically, Ammi has been used by ancient Egyptian caravan travelers who used the plants as a natural bronzer of sorts. Its roots contain 8-methoxypsoralen, a compound with pigment producing properties. By chewing on these roots, travelers had an easy and inexpensive source of protection against the sun’s harsh UV rays.
Today, Ammi is distinguished mostly by its commercial uses, specifically as a cut flower and garden ornamental. The two most popular species cultivated for the cut flower trade are A. majus and A. visnaga. These wildflower-like plants feature multi-branched stems that grow between 90–120 cm in height and are topped with large, dome-shaped umbels. These umbels (between 7–15 cm in diameter) are densely packed with small, pure white (or sometimes green) flowers that mimic lace from a distance. (Hence the common names lace flower and white lace flower.) These blossoms may sometimes produce a faint, yet unpleasant scent. On the other hand, its attractive, feathery foliage contributes to the plant’s overall airy look, making it an excellent filler flower for garden-style arrangements and wedding designs.
As we mentioned earlier, Ammi is oftentimes mistaken for the real Queen Anne’s Lace, or Daucus carota. It makes sense, too, since their flowers are almost mirror copies of one other. They are also members of the same carrot family. However, one can tell these “cousins” apart by their coloration. Ammi flowers are pure white and they don’t feature the dark central dot seen on Queen Anne’s lace flowers. Ammi is also more delicate and less weedy; in fact, many biennial species of Queen Anne’s lace have been listed as invasive by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Among contemporary designers, Ammi remains a coveted accent flower for its versatility and overt good looks. Like Gypsophila, it adds soft yet full volume to wedding bouquets and spring/summer arrangements. Its ethereal flowers also combine effortlessly with virtually all color palettes and arrange beautifully with large-headed flowers like roses, lilies and peonies. Ammi also makes a desirable garden plant; if added to a home garden, you will be rewarded with hoards of butterflies and other pollinating insects!
Special Care when you cut them
Select straight, sturdy stems that have umbels with a majority of their florets open. Any stems with under fifty percent of their florets open may have been harvested too early; these usually wilt faster because they do not take in water properly. Also avoid flowering stems that are shedding petals or pollen.
When processing, strip foliage that falls below the water line. Recut the stems about 2.5 cm at an angle (45-degrees) and hydrate them immediately in water mixed with a floral preservative (with sugar and a biocide) for at least two hours before storage or use in floral work. Although not required, stems can be recut under running water or in a bowl of clean water. Cutting under water may reduce the risk of air pockets forming at the stems’ base and allows the flowers to absorb water right away. Ammi flowers are ethylene sensitive, so keep them away from sources of the gas. Also, since it is easily susceptible to water stress, avoid using floral foam with Ammi stems, unless they are cut short.
Stems may be stored for a couple of days at 34–36ºF (1–2ºC) at 75–80% humidity, but this isn’t required.
Fun Facts:
The genus name comes from the Greek word “ammos” meaning sand. This likely references the plant’s origins in the Nile delta and the Meditteranean, where it thrives in warm and dry (or semi-dry) areas.
Ammi majus (false Queen Anne’s lace) is often confused with its cousin, (the true) Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota)—and with due reason...they look almost identical! Although they are part of the same family, these two species are very different. The most notable differentiating factor between the two are their colors; Ammi flowers are pure white and they don’t possess Queen Anne’s lace’s dark central dot. Ammi is also typically more delicate and less weedy; in fact, many biennial species of Queen Anne’s lace have been listed as invasive by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Of the six known species of the Ammi genus, the two species most cultivated for the cut flower trade are A. majus and A. visnaga. These are typically grown as annuals or biennials, and their leafy, flowering stems are used as cut flowers and garden ornamentals. The most widely known cultivar of A. majus is 'Green Mist', which as its name suggests, produces green flowers.
Ammi is a member of the Apiaceae (carrot) family, and its common relatives include fennel, parsley and dill. For this reason, its leaves sometimes give off a carrot-like scent when they are crushed.
Aside from its ornamental and medicinal uses, Ammi was also grown as a food source given its edible leaves. In India, it is commonly used as an aromatic spice, which is said to taste like thyme.
When in season, Ammi flowers are usually seen growing wildly in open fields and alongside roads, or cultivated as an ornamental in home gardens and greenhouses. Its plants serve as prime attractors of butterflies, bees and other pollinating insects.
In 2014, Ammi was awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the U.K.’s Royal Horticultural Society.
Ammi flowers are said to symbolize sanctuary and warmth.
Given its airy, lacelike appeal and long vase life, Ammi has become a popular filler used in both fresh and dried floral designs. It makes a fantastic substitute for Queen Anne’s lace flowers, and similar to Gypsophila, it adds softness, great texture and fullness to garden-style arrangements and bridal bouquets. Ammi flowers can also be air dried for up to three weeks in a dark, well-ventilated area.
Taken from https://www.flower.style/flowers-we-love/ammi-majus
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from mygardenlife.com