Good morning, it looks like I forgot to write yesterday.  Can you believe I am busy?  Anyway, we are open but still getting ready for the gardeners.  Perennials, trees and shrubs will be ready by Friday.  They are what we delivered.  We didn’t plant these.  BUT the greenhouse is full, and I spent the last 2 days getting plants on the tall carts, to make room for the new planting.  Yes, we are still planting.  We have lots of color in the greenhouse.
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We had rain last night, and that is good.  This one was nice and gentle and warm.  WATCH out plants will be popping.  Enjoy, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their fall weather on Wed. April 24 wow they are to have 67F(19C) awesome fall day for the ENJOY, stay safe.
Seed potatoes and onion sets are here.  Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, new this year collars Flash, Celery, and Brussel sprouts Asparagus crowns and strawberries will be here next week.  The list will go on and on for annual flowers.  I will share with you different ones more to come. 
Hours:
Monday -Saturday 9-6
Sunday 1-6 
I am so glad to be at this point, to show you what we have done in our planting.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from lovethegarden.com 

Good morning….hope all had a great Easter weekend.  We did with church, family, fellowship, food and a couple of Easter Egg Hunts.  I have to say I am a little weary this morning, but I’m up and going to the greenhouse soon.  The temperature is at 45F(7C) still cloudy out but the clouds are to move out and we are to see the sun this afternoon.  See what happens.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends, April 22, Tuesday for them high of 65F(18C) but it looks they will have rain 80% with wind for them.  So, it will be a fall day, but they enjoy the rain. Everything will be greening up. Stay warm, stay safe.   

We are getting our trees and shrubs this afternoon.  Here is the list of fruit trees, and you will see cherry trees among them.

1. Braeburn apple
2. Corland apple
3. Fruit snacks Gold treat apple  I will explain about these in a later writing
4. Fruit snacks Tangy Green apple
5. Gala apple
6. Granny Smith apple
7. Norland apple
8. Winesap apple
9. Black Tartarian cherry
10. Northstar cherry
11. Elberta peach
12. Superior Plum

We have three of each Hope you find one you would like to plant. 
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Here is how to grow cherries, and the homework assignment for you do you need two cherry trees for them to produce? 
How to Grow Cherries:  by Catherine Boeckmann
Cherry trees are gorgeous all year long, from their spring blossoms to their luscious fruit in midsummer. Learn how to grow and harvest both sweet and tart cherries. Also, be sure to protect your cherries from bird damage!
About Cherries
Sweet cherries are the variety most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plum-like texture. Sweet cherries grow in hardiness Zones 5 to 7; they are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You’ll need at least two or three trees, as they’ll need to pollinate each other. If space is limited, consider the dwarf self-pollinating cultivar ‘Stella’.
Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in Zones 4 to 6.
Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts.
Plant cherry trees in early spring or late fall (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content) in a sunny site with good air circulation and deep, well-drained soil. Apply mulch and water well. After flowering in a fruiting year, you’ll need to drape trees with wildlife-safe netting to protect the fruit from birds.
Plant cherry trees in a sunny site with good air circulation; avoid planting near larger trees or buildings that will shade the cherries. Ideally, cherry trees should get at least 6 hours of sunlight each day.
Cherry trees do best in deep, well-draining soil that has a pH of 6.0-7.0.
Space sweet cherries 35 to 40 feet apart; dwarfs, 5 to 10 feet apart. Space tart cherries 20 to 25 feet apart; dwarfs, 8 to 10 feet apart.
How to Plant Cherry Trees
Trees on standard rootstock should be planted with the graft union a few inches below the soil level. Trees on dwarf rootstock should be planted with the graft union several inches above the soil level, which will prevent the graft from growing its own roots and bypassing the rootstock.
When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting. Plant fans only 12 to 15 feet apart.
For bareroot trees, place the rootstock on a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away, trying not to bend the roots. Backfill with soil.
For container-grown trees, first remove the rootball and set the tree on its side; cut through any pot-bound or encircled roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball.
Growing
There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries.
Apply mulch around the tree to retain moisture, but leave several inches of bare earth around the trunk.
Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds.
Water routinely in dry areas.
Thinning the fruit is not necessary for cherry trees, as they typically thin naturally in early summer.
Prune trees every year in late winter to encourage the growth of new fruiting wood. Don’t prune in the fall.
Fertilize early in spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 5-10-10) a few weeks before trees start to flower, then fertilize as necessary (check soil fertility by testing the soil) until cherries are harvested. Do not fertilize after mid-summer, as new growth needs time to harden off before fall and winter.
Remember that cherry trees do not typically bear fruit until their fourth year. Thereafter, they should produce about 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year.
Birds are common pests, especially with sweet cherries (versus tarts). To avoid bird damage, you can drap nylon mesh netting over dwarf trees, but it’s difficult to cover the larger standard-size sweet cherry tree. Distracting objects such as pie pans can help, but birds can get used to them.
Another solution is to grow a fruit tree nearby that will ripen before and during the cherry season, such as mulberry trees. (Avoid planting ‘Illinois Everbearing’ mulberry which ripens too late.)
Other pests that attack cherries include fruit flies, apple maggots, peach tree borers, and caterpillars (specifically the larvae of the plum curculio
Brown rot and cherry leaf spot affect both tart and sweet cherries. Black knot and powdery mildew are potential problems for some areas.
Wit and Wisdom
There is a famous myth that President George Washington cut down a cherry tree and then admitted his wrongdoing to his father. This myth was invented by a biographer of President Washington, who hoped to display his honesty. We still think it’s a great idea to commemorate President’s Day with a delicious cherry pie recipe!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/cherries
cherry Trees To Pollinate?
STEP 1
If you plant a lone sour cherry tree, expect fruits to develop after bees pollinate the blossoms. However, sweet cherry trees must not be planted by themselves, as another compatible sweet cherry tree must bloom at the same time to ensure cross-pollination. You cannot plant two of the same sweet cherry tree cultivar and expect good cross-pollination. Another cultivar is needed.
Sour Cherry Types
STEP 1
Because sour cherry trees are self-fertile, you may grow any number and array of cultivars in a garden. Sour cherry trees make poor pollinators for nearby sweet cherry trees. About eight cultivars of sour cherries grow well across a wide geographical range across the United States, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 8. Montmorency, North Star, Balaton, English Morello, Early Richmond, Surefire, Kansas Sweet/Hansen and Meteor are names of cultivars.
STEP 2
If you plant a lone sour cherry tree, expect fruits to develop after bees pollinate the blossoms.
Because sour cherry trees are self-fertile, you may grow any number and array of cultivars in a garden.
Sweet Cherry Types
STEP 1
In comparison to sour cherries, many more cultivars of sweet cherries exist. Grow them in USDA zones 5 through 8. The issue of cross-pollination among sweet cherries is confounded since some cultivars aren't compatible with each other, while some are universally good for cross-pollination. Cultivars Index, Lapins, Skeena, Sweetheart, WhiteGold, Sonata, Stella, Symphony, Sunburst and BlackGold make reliably good pollinators for all other sweet cherry tree cultivars. Match universal trees' blooming time with that of the other sweet cherry variety — you want trees to bloom simultaneously so bees transfer pollen among both trees' blossoms. Names of other sweet cherry cultivars that need a companion pollinating tree are Bing, Rainer, Lambert, and Napolean/Royal Ann, Black Tartarian, Van, Angela, Sam and Sweet Ann, among numerous others
Taken from https://www.gardenguides.com/info_8205276_do-two-cherry-trees-pollinate/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337   cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from cherryblossomlife.com 

       Good morning, wow we had wind, hail and rain at 4:00 AM this morning.  We just had pea-size hail, so no damage Larry looked around.  Some places had those golf size hail or larger.  We lost electricity for a few hours yesterday afternoon.  Critter was blamed for that.  I was watering and Larry did hook up the generators so I could finish that job.  The lights came back on at around 6:30. That is a sign of spring.  One we don’t like but it happens.  High today will be 51F(11C) with cloudy and overcast sky.  Colder air is moving in, and more rain over Easter Sunday.  But we do need the rain.  Being it is warmer out; green is starting to pop all over the place.  Stay warm and stay safe. 
 
Australia family and friends Saturday April 19 they will have 76F(24C) partly cloudy conditions expected.  It looks like they will have rainy weather over the Easter weekend.  Enjoy your fall weather. Stay safe.
 
I was asked this weekend; can I grow carrots in containers.  I didn’t know but this is what I found out.  Yes, you can.

How to Grow Carrots in Containers by Nan Schiller
Growing carrots, Daucus carota subsp. sativus, in containers is a convenient way to produce your own fresh root vegetables, even if you don’t have the acreage for a full-fledged vegetable garden.
One large round planter can yield up to 30-40 carrots per harvest, depending on the weather, variety, and how many you’ve planted.
My favorite thing about growing them in containers is that there are no wild critter issues, since my planter is close to the house where I can keep an eye on it. What’s more, now I can easily harvest two or more crops per season, and picking and storage is incredibly simple.
Getting Started
Any container shape will work; the main concern is making sure it is deep enough to accommodate your chosen cultivar. Ideally, you’ll choose a variety that develops a short, more rounded root rather than a long thin one.
Your container should be at least 12-inches deep, to accommodate the developing roots. Select one with adequate drainage, or make several holes in the bottom of the vessel of your choice.
Use traditional pots of any shape, or create your own from repurposed containers. If you are repurposing, you will need to make sure that there are drainage holes. Drilling a few holes in the bottom should be enough to take care of this.
I like to choose planters that are at least a foot square, and keep in mind that bigger is better if you want a bumper crop.
Place the vessel in a location that receives the amount of sunlight that’s best for the specific variety you are growing. Most carrots do best in full sun, but double check the seed packet for yours before deciding on the perfect spot.
It is best to place the pot in your selected location before filling it, because a large planter becomes heavy once it’s full of soil and water and difficult to move around.
Container Grown Carrot Care
Fill the container with organically rich potting soil. A purchased product specifically for vegetables will have a good combination of ingredients such as peat moss, sand, and vermiculite.
You want to be sure that the potting medium is smooth, light, and airy, for adequate drainage and optimal root growth.
Carrots do best in soil with a high potassium content which encourages root growth. Be cautious about the nitrogen level in your soil, as this will promote foliage growth, which is not our goal.
You can use soil from your garden, but it’s recommended that you conduct a soil test and amend as necessary.
Potted carrots require regular watering. Be sure to water at the soil level, and not over the leafy tops, to avoid problems with rot.
Keep the soil  moist, but not soggy – and never allow it to completely dry out.
How to Grow
Carrots seedlings do not transplant well, so you’ll need to start with a packet of seeds or seeds that have been harvested from a previous crop.
You can sow seeds in your containers outdoors as early as 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date for your area.
To jump-start the process, you can start seeds indoors in biodegradable pots a few weeks ahead of time.
Water the pot or pots of soil thoroughly and let all the water drain through. Gently sprinkle carrot seeds over the moist soil. Cover them with a 1/4  inch of additional soil, and tamp down gently.
Germination takes up to three weeks, so be patient while nature works its magic.
As seedlings grow, they generally begin to crowd one other. When they have their first set of true leaves, trim away the weaker ones with a pair of scissors or pull them gently up by their roots.
In another couple of weeks, thin again, maintaining a space of about three to four inches between plants.
At this time, you may want to feed your developing crops. You can use a general purpose vegetable fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. Excess nitrogen can promote too much foliage, and too few carrots.
Remember to keep the soil moist as the vegetables mature. Containers dry out much faster than ground soil, so check them daily.
Weeds and pests should not be an issue with closely tended containers, but keep an eye out for any problems.
If the tops of the carrots start to grow above the soil line and are exposed to sunlight for extended periods, they will turn green and become bitter.
In addition, exceptionally hot temperatures may take a toll on root development. Drying out soil and inhibiting nutrient uptake which will impair flavor and texture.
If you have an unusually hot spell, move your plants to a shaded location during the mid-afternoon hours.
This is important to do:  Thinning and spacing are essential when growing carrots. The correct amount of space between carrot plants allows each plant to grow without overcrowding, which can result in stunted growth.  The ideal spacing is two to three inches apart when sowing seed. When the seedlings have grown to a height of two to three inches, they should be thinned to three to four inches apart. This ensures that the carrots have enough room to grow and develop normally.
 To thin the carrots, grab the seedlings at the base and pull gently. If the soil is dry, water the area before thinning. Make sure to leave the strongest seedlings and discard the weaker ones.
Growing Tips
Use well-draining, loose soil without clods to avoid misshapen roots.
Water frequently, particularly in hot weather, as container-grown plants dry out quicker.
Fertilize regularly as nutrients are leeched from the soil more quickly in containers.
If you don’t have outdoor space, they can also be grown indoors.
Carrot Cultivars to Select
Many types of carrot will grow well in containers, and nurseries and seed companies will often note which varieties are best for planting in small spaces.
As a general rule of thumb, 8-inch carrots will fit just fine in a pot that is 12 inches deep. But smaller options or cultivars with roots that are short and rounded (such as Danvers and Chantenay varieties) rather than long and tapered are a good option.
Managing Pests and Disease
Provided you have used fresh soil and thinned your plants adequately, you shouldn’t have any major problems with pests or disease.
Sometimes aphids, leafhoppers, and flea beetles can munch on the leaves. These can usually be dealt with efficiently by spraying a strong jet of water from your garden hose. In the case of a major infestation you might want to use an insecticidal soap, or neem oil.
It’s crucial that you thin your seedlings. If you don’t, the proximity can create a humid environment that can encourage fungal growth.
The common diseases that plague garden-grown carrots are not as much of a problem when you grow them in containers. Fungal and bacterial diseases such as Alternaria leaf blight, bacterial leaf blight, and carrot black rot are ones to look out for.
Harvesting Container Grown Carrots
It is best to keep your seed packets around through harvest. But don’t just rely on the days to maturity noted, which is an average.
You’ll know your carrots are ready for harvest when the tops of the root are just visible above the soil line.
Depending on the cultivar, you can harvest when the diameter of the exposed crown is at least 1/2 inch across.
To harvest, carefully loosen the soil around the root, and pull gently to prevent them from breaking.
If you are growing a spring crop for a summer harvest, keep an eye on your plants as the high temperatures can cause them to bolt. If you have a fall harvest planned, a few light frosts can sweeten the taste.
Depending upon where you live, you may be able to grow outdoors year-round, or perhaps inside a warm sunporch.
If you have a garden, you could mix the spent potting medium into the ground in one of your plots or beds and let the soil’s beneficial microbes refresh it.
A Smaller Scale with Big Results
Growing in pots opens a whole new world of vegetable gardening to those with small outdoor spaces. And it can be fun for the whole family because it’s easy to let the kids take part.
Unlike a big garden plot with major digging and weeding, the tools and scale of operations for container gardening are the perfect fit for smaller hands. Why not let them take responsibility for a single pot or type of vegetable?
Whether you are in an urban setting with a balcony, or a suburban locale with a front porch, you can enjoy healthy produce and the satisfaction of having nurtured it yourself.
With quality seed, good soil, adequate drainage, and dedicated watering, you are sure to enjoy success with your homegrown carrots.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/carrots
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer

image from Becky's Greenhouse 
​This is what we move the flats of plants that have been growing for awhile.  

      Good morning.  Overcast sky but it is warm out I had to do a double take 57F(14C), high today of 73F(22C) WOW this is a normal spring one day warm, and then they are talking over the weekend highs in the 30’sF(-1C) We are in a slight chance of severe weather tonight.  Stay safe, and I guess with these temperatures stay cool.
 
Australia family and friends, Friday April 18th looks like you are having a little warmer fall day.  80F(27C) you are to have clouds so that will help. Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Jennifer lives at Powell, Wyoming and I have to share what is happening to her. Snowy conditions expected around 12PM wind gusts up to 31 MPH and making the temperature feel like 10F(-14C) Actual temperature is going to be 35F(2C) stay warm, stay safe. 
 
I find that when I post what I am doing in the greenhouse, I am getting more interested.  I will try to do more of that.  I am a grower, and we plant little plant plugs.  The trays of plugs have 500, 400,240,180, 50, 40.  I like to use one greenhouse easier to heat, easier to water, and easier for me to keep track of how the plants are doing.  I want to keep them in the west greenhouse as much as I can.  I have double deck shelves and use all the planting space I can use.  We plant the plugs into containers using flat trays to hold them.  We put these just planted trays on the tables, and the double-deck tables.  We fill them up, the first ones planted are then moved to the tall racks to continue to grow.  They are established and they do continue to grow.  Once the table space is open, we will fill them up again with the newly planted trays. 

You ask what do you do when the tall racks are full, when the tables are full, then that is when you will see them outside on the long wagons that I am known for.  We will use that east greenhouse to put the long wagons inside if the temperature is close to freezing to keep them safe.  When the plants are outside, and this starts the process of hardening off.  The plants are ready to go into your gardens, and containers.  If you take them out of the greenhouse, you are in for what I call the greenhouse wilt.  They will be in a  little shock to be where the wind can be, cooler temperatures at night and just being outside.  I am suggesting that you keep them outside for a day or two to help with hardening off before you plant them.  If that doesn’t work for you, if they wilt then don’t panic as they will be getting out of the shock and then continue to grow. 
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I know when you come to shop, you see the plant trays on the racks, and that leads you to believe we bring them in, buy them from another greenhouse, because that is what you see other places.  But that is far from the truth, we plant these as from those little plug plants. Larry says that I will fill the one greenhouse 4 times with this way of planting. 
Now hope that gives you an understanding on how Becky at Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty grows her plants.  
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from Pinterest.com 

Another morning of clear, blue sky.  It looks nice out, but I am going to wait till I go out and see what it feels like after yesterday when that wind was so cold.  Temperature is at 37F(3C).  High today is 67F(19C).  So, I would say it is going to be an awesome day.  ENJOY, and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for April 17 Thursday will have almost the same temperature as us 71F(21C).   Remember this is their fall season.  Enjoy and also stay safe. 
 
Another new plant Sun Dipper Tomatoes Are a Sweet Snacking Tomato but read how tall it gets, so needs to be stacked.  It is not one for a container.  Give it a try!  Looks fun to eat. 
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‘Sun Dipper’ tomatoes are a new small-fruited variety with a curvy, elongated shape that makes them perfect for munching by hand, especially with a dip. The plant is resistant to common tomato diseases and pests. This tomato plant is relatively compact and it ripens fruit fairly early in the season, with the harvest continuing over many weeks.
Fruit: 'Sun Dipper' tomatoes are elongated fruits with a shape slightly like the number 8. Their flavor is sweet, like a cherry tomato. Maturing to about 2 inches long and ripening bright orange, the first fruits are ready to pick 60 to 65 days after transplant.
Habit: This tomato plant reaches 5 feet or taller, with a 4 foot spread. It is an indeterminate tomato, meaning that the plant will continue to grow, flower and set fruit as long as conditions are favorable. (This is the opposite to determinate tomatoes, varieties that stop growing at their mature height and produce flowers and fruit in one flush.)
How to grow it: 'Sun Dipper' is resistant to fusarium, nematodes and tomato mosaic virus. Its needs are typical of any garden tomato plant: full sun, fertile soil and even watering. In most regions 'Sun Dipper' seeds should be sown indoors about six weeks before the typical last frost date. Seedlings can move into the garden after all danger of frost has passed. Initial harvest can be expected 60 to 65 days after transplanting. Because this is an indeterminate tomato, it will require sturdy wooden stakes or a tomato cage for support.
Taken from https://www.hortmag.com/edible-gardening/sun-dipper-tomatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from seedsnsuch.com 

Good morning.  Looking outside this morning at 7:30 AM the sky is clear and blue.  The temperature is chilly at 36F but supposed to warm up to 56(14C) What is going to happen again is the wind. NW at 20 MPH that will make it feel cooler.  For us in the greenhouse, with the sun shining it will be warm.  When I talk about the wind, I think of one of our church ladies that doesn’t like the wind.  Sorry for that but we have it.  Stay warm, stay safe
 
Australia family and friends for April 16 Wed. They will have a high of 79F( 21C) with partly cloudy conditions and wind gusts up to 11 mph.  It sounds like to me a pleasant fall day.  Enjoy the day, stay safe.
 
We are growing this basil this spring, but I will order in different kinds from Swift Greenhouse.  You have asked what is new this year.  Here is one. 
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New! Exceptional citrus basil.
Very slow-bolting, incredibly productive basil with bright lemon flavor. Plants are very upright and densely packed with bright green glossy leaves. A beautiful and tidy towering plant. Long, strong stems and profuse leaf production make it excellent for both bunching (from a field planting) and growing in pots. Compared to Mrs. Burns' Lemon basil, Everleaf Lemon has a sweeter, more complex flavor; glossier leaves; a taller, more productive plant habit; and, is much later to flower. Ht. 20–24".
Grow a Never-Ending Supply of Heavenly Basil
Is there anything better than harvesting bundles of fresh Basil from your garden and bringing them inside to wash them and strip the leaves from their stems? It anoints your hands and fills your kitchen with the overpoweringly wonderful scent that is the essence of summer freshness.
Basil's rich floral bouquet, tinged with hints of clove and licorice, is essential in pasta sauces, pizzas and pesto, and is a flavorful adornment for mozzarella cheese, Heirloom Tomatoes, Garlic and silky olive oils.
Growing a bountiful supply of Basil is an easy and inexpensive luxury. Just a few seedlings will yield more Basil than you could possibly use (though you'll try.) Its fresh, delicate leaves, rich in volatile oils, bruise easily, which is the reason why bunches of Basil often appear so sad and defeated in the grocery store. Growing your own is the way to go!
Taken from kitchen garden seeds
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from Becky's Greenhouse 

        Good morning….clear, blue sky and it is already 43 degrees so what is the high today.66F(18C) Just enjoy and be outside.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Sunday April 13 high today of 77F(25C)  with cloudy conditions.  Enjoy your Sunday with mild fall weather.  Stay safe.
 
Here is a picture of my planting gals on Thursday.  Val, Nancy and Janet.  They did an awesome job.  They got baskets planted and all the easy wave petunias.  Becky’s Greenhouse Adventures #3 is we plant as much as we can in 4 packs.  Easy wave petunias are one of them in super 4 packs.  You get 4 plants for the price of $5.99
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We have several colors and combinations
Easy Wave Great Lake  Blue, Violet and white
Easy Wave Navy velour Blue purple black flowers very deep color
Easy Wave opposite attracts  coral reef and violet
Easy wave South Beach  coral reef, red and violet
Easy Wavy Blue  dark purple-navy hue
Easy Wavy Formula mix blue, neon rose, pink passion, red, silver, violet and white
Easy wave Peppermint Mix red, white
Easy wave Red  red 
Easy wave  red, white and blue 
Easy Wave petunias grow 2’ to 3’ in the garden.  Wave petunias which we have had for a very long time  grow 3’ to 5’.  Easy wave petunias are a type of petunias that a low maintenance, drought -tolerant and have a vigorous spreading habit.  They produce colorful, showy blooms that last from spring to frost.  These petunias thrive in the full sun.
I need to go and open the greenhouse doors as it is warming up quickly.  I will enjoy planting today as it will be nice and warm.  It will be watering everything today but that is what makes the plants grow sun, heat and water.  You enjoy your day.   Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa  [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from blogspot.com

      Good Day as our family would say from Australia.  It is partly cloudy, but looks like clouds are moving in for the day.  Still good temperature at 54F(12C) Wind out of the NNW.  So, stay warm, for us in the greenhouse stay cool, and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends are having an awesome fall.  76F(24C) for their April 11 Friday. Evelyn said she has gone back to the Botanical Garden to volunteer this fall.  It is a lovely garden in Sale.  It is a hidden gem for sure.  Enjoy and stay safe.
 
Is your rhubarb coming up yet?  That is always a sign of spring.  Here is how to grow it and if you have a patch of rhubarb to take care of it.
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What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces.
About Rhubarb
Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens. Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.
The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.
What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!
With its ruby or green stems and umbrella-like leaves, rhubarb also adds height and structure to your garden, along with a splash of gorgeous color that will return year in and year out.
Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.
Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded.
When to Plant Rhubarb
Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy have set in in the fall, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.
Spacing for Rhubarb
How to Plant Rhubarb
Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center, or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
Water well at the time of planting.
Growing
Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them.
Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days.
Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.
Harvesting
Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.
After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over 10 years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after midsummer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.
How to Store Rhubarb
Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.
Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/rhubarb
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  

Profusion Zinnias image from Pinterset 

Magellan zinnias image from Ball Seed 

      Good morning.  Looks like the clouds are moving in.  We could have some rain.  High today is 57F(14C).  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for April 10 Thursday 71F(21C) with cloudy skies.  To be looks like a fall day for them.  Stay safe and enjoy.
 
The planting gals have planted zinnias into packs.  We do some of these for the Mason City public garden beds.  We have several colors of the Profusion Zinnias, and colors of the Magellan Zinnias.   In the article that I have posted it talks about planting seeds, and you can do that.  But for our purpose at the public gardens in Mason City it is to have instant plants and color sooner.  When you have the plants, then the weeding is easier than if you plant the seeds and have to wait for the zinnias to get bigger for weeding. 

These bushy Profusion Zinnia plants, 14 to 18 inches high and 20 to 24 inches wide, are simply smothered nonstop all season with cheerful, 2-inch daisy-formed blooms. The petals are a bold mix of scarlet and orange, some looking almost striped while others a wash of both bright sunset tones. The petals surround a bold, eye-catching central eye of frilly golden—a very unusual combination for zinnia, and absolutely magnificent in a large planting. And large plantings are just what this landscaping series is designed for—unlike the cut flower or bedding varieties, Profusion is a dense, bushy, many-flowered little plant that covers ground and fills the garden with color.
One of the colors we have in 4 packs:  Profusion Fire Zinnia is highly tolerant of mildew and other foliage diseases, and laughs at heat, humidity, and drought. We are proud to give Profusion our highest recommendation for garden-worthiness.
Zinnias are one of the easiest annuals to grow and attract butterflies to the garden. They are the perfect cut flower, the more you cut, the more you get. Profusion Fire Zinnias thrives in the sun and heat of summer and ask only for well-drained soil. Space the Profusion Fire Zinnia plants generously to prevent overcrowding. When cutting the blooms for the vase, trim off all the foliage; unlike the blooms, it does not age well. Direct sow or start ahead indoors.

Magellan zinnias A magnificent blend of extra-large and fully double, 4-5 in. zinnias formulated from the following Magellan series varieties: Magellan Cherry, Magellan Coral, Magellan Ivory, Magellan Orange, Magellan Pink, Magellan Salmon, Magellan Scarlet and Magellan Yellow. The 14 in. tall plants branch freely from a young age - no pinching is required.

Now I will talk about Becky’s Greenhouse Adventures:  I am going to include this as adventure with your shopping.  We grow as many plants as we can in 4 packs, large or small.  It will give you more for your $, and more to plant.  We use a standard 4 pack for small and large super 4 packs.  Depending on how they grow for you to put into the garden is how I decide what size container to use.  Other growers use small 4 packs, or just plants into single pots.  I just want you to look at what you are shopping for.  Here at Becky’s Greenhouse, we want to give you the best plants at a reasonable price.
Becky's Greenhouse Adventure #3 
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Planting, Growing, and Caring for Zinnia Flowers by Catherine Boeckmann
Zinnias create a massive burst of color in your garden from summer through the first hard frost of fall. They are annual plants that are best planted from seed. Perfect as cut flowers, they’re also food for butterflies
Zinnias are annuals, so they’ll grow for one season to produce flowers and seeds, but the original plant will not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flower heads on a single, erect stem, which makes them great for use as a cutting flower or as food for butterflies.
The most popular zinnia species is Zinnia elegans, which has been bred to produce a great number of unique varieties.
Zinnia flowers come in three main kinds: single, double, or semi-double. The distinction between these forms comes from the number of rows of petals and whether or not the center of the flower is visible:
Single-flowered zinnias have a single row of petals and a visible center.
Double-flowered zinnias have numerous rows of petals, and their centers are not visible.
Semidouble-flowered zinnias are somewhere in-between, with numerous rows of petals but visible centers.
In addition to these forms, zinnia flowers come in a number of shapes, including beehive, button, and cactus. The plants also come in different heights: taller varieties are best for the background of a garden bed, while shorter varieties work well along a border. There’s a zinnia for every garden!
Plant zinnias in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers.
Planting
Choosing a location that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day) is essential to getting plentiful blooms throughout the season. Additionally, a site that offers good air circulation will help to prevent foliar diseases such as powdery mildew later in the season.
Zinnias are able to adapt to most soil conditions, but the ideal soil will be rich in organic matter and well-draining. Soil pH should ideally be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost (humus), the flowers will grow more quickly.
Zinnias will grow in a minimum daytime temperature of about 60°F (16°C), though a range of 74°–84°F (23°–28°C) is preferred.
After the zinnias flower, cut off the old flowers (a process called deadheading) to encourage more flowers to form.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first hard frost of fall. However, if you want them to reseed, let the last flowers of the season mature fully and scatter their seeds.
Zinnias generally take 60 to 70 days from seed to flower (though it depends on conditions and variety). They work great in a flower bouquet!
To save zinnia seeds for replanting, simply collect a few blossoms that are at least halfway brown and let them dry in a paper bag until the seeds shatter.
Find the dark, pointed seeds at the bases of outer petals, with more along the center of the flower.
Dry on a paper towel until hard and almost crisp.
Store in a paper bag in a dark, dry location until you plant again in the spring.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/zinnias
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  

Image from Becky's Greenhouse

       It is clear blue sky…but wait it is cold out 22F ( -5C).  Dress warm.  It is going to warm up today and all week with chance of rain.  High of 51F(11C) stay warm stay safe
 
Australia family and friends for April 9 Wed is going to have a great fall day.  68F(20C)   partly cloudy for them.  Enjoy your weather, stay safe.
 
I have been asked when I am open.  During the week, I would say now.  We are planting so someone will be there.  I will be open April 21st Monday after Easter and every day till the end of June.  Monday thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 1-6. 

What do you have?  Seed potatoes, onion sets are in.  The pansies look amazing and if you want some for your Easter décor stop in and pick them up. The pansy baskets are looking great and have lots of color.  All the early vegetables look good as in cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower.  They all will need to be hardened as they are still in the hot greenhouse. 
Trees and shrubs will not be delivered till the end of April.  The same with the perennials.  I will let you know when they are here.   I will post pictures of these later today when I am at the greenhouse.    
We are starting a new Becky’s Greenhouse Adventures.  When you come you will always receive a gift.  Each week it will be a different gift.  Adventure #1
Adventure #2
We have area bars and grills in our area towns.  Their places look amazing, their food is awesome and there is great service. Here they are:  Stop at the greenhouse and then continue your adventure at one of these places to eat. 
Pat’s Bar and Grill, Marble Rock, Kitchen open 7AM-9PM, breakfast served all day with a full menu of other meals. Closed on Sunday
Back Roads, Aredale Kitchen hours Wed, Thursday, Friday 5PM-9PM, Saturday 8AM-9PM, Sunday 8AM-7PM
Block 10, Sheffield, Tuesday through Friday 8AM-2PM closed Saturday, Sunday
Aces Bar and Grill, Rockford Tuesday – Saturday Kitchen open 11:30 AM, Sunday 11AM-11PM
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I will be listing more adventures from Becky’s Greenhouse.  Our main adventure right now is planting.  Becky’s Greenhouse is soon going to be full of color for your garden planting.   
I am off to work on that.  Springtime and all that time are spent outside.  It is a great time.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse