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image from Thriftyfun.com We are having summer like weather today and tomorrow. BUT really it isn’t too bad out with the wind blowing. It is humid that is for sure, so different than last week. You know what I am doing but watering, watering and watering more. Plants still look so good, I want to keep them that way. Lyle watered inside this morning so that is done. I water with the sprinklers on wheels outside so they do the work I just move them. Wind is helping watering 2 wagons at a time for sure.
Plants look good. Good selection of annuals and perennials, trees and shrubs. Vegetables are really good. Good selection of peppers and tomatoes yet. And ALL are on sale. I need to make up some pots for customers, so will work on that today. THEN I will work on mine. I have to say I have had 2 grandchildren here 12 and 11 who have worked on my garden on the dog kennel area. IT is looking so good and lots of color. You will have to notice it is on the west side of the greenhouse under the trees. I would never have it done yet if it wasn’t for them. How is your gardening doing? It is an on going project isn’t it. Now after you have your containers and pots planted you will need to water. I think we have had enough rain for the vegetable gardens no watering. BUT I am hearing horrid stories about critters getting into your vegetable garden. Always something. We use colored tape to enclose the whole rack area here at the greenhouse. Now I noticed one deer must be getting in. She likes the BIG leaf begonias. We will try to take another sprinkler and cover that area where we think she is getting in. Might be a little one???? Salad bar for the deer… Freezing Spinach, Swiss Chard, and Beet Greens Have more greens than you can eat? Freezing spinach and hardy cooking greens is so easy—and you can enjoy them all year long in soups, quiches, smoothies, and more! Here’s how to freeze leafy greens—spinach, Swiss chard, kale, and beet greens. It’s doesn’t matter where you get your leafy greens—the garden, farmers’ market, farm stand, CSA, grocery store). As long as they are fresh, tender, and not wilted, you can preserve them. You can freeze any hardy cooking greens; note that lettuce and tender salad greens are to delicate to freezer properly and not recommended. If you are harvesting your own spinach and greens, pick early in the morning before the heat of day. 1. Wash the Greens Select the tender leaves. Wash carefully in cold water to remove any dirt or debris. Sometimes leaf greens can even have a bug hiding out in its leaves, so rinse more than once if you’re freaked out by insects. For spinach: Tear any larger leaves into small pieces, discarding the stems. For kale: Wash young, tender leaves thoroughly and cut off woody stems. For Swiss chard: Put into the steamer whole or tear smaller pieces away from the stems, placing the ribs aside. For beet greens: Treat like Swiss chard. 2. Blanch Greens All leafy greens need be blanched before freezing. Blanching slows or stops the action of enzymes that would lead to spoilage—and helps vegetables keep their bright color, flavor, texture, and nutrition. Plus, blanching wilts the leafy greens making them easier to package into freezer safe containers. You’ll need to a large pot that can hold a steamer basket, strainer, or colander. Fill pot with water so that 1 to 2 inches of water are underneath the basket or colander. Bring the water to boil. Place the greens into the basket or colander and cover the boiling water pot with a lid to steam-heat. Cook greens until wilted—3 minutes for collard greens, 2.5 minutes for kale, and 2 minutes for all other greens. 3. Plunge into Ice Water The greens now need to be cooled down quickly before being placed in freezer bags! Have a large bowl of ice water prepared. We mean near-freezing! You need to stop the greens from overcooking or they will lose their vibrant green color. In order not to lose their nutrients via leaching, the greens should be kept separated from the cooling water. It’s easiest to do this by placing the greens inside one bowl which is then inserted into a larger bowl of ice water. Using the tongs, move them around until cooled down (2 or 3 minutes). Add more ice cubes to keep the water ice cold. The last step is to drain the spinach and dry. A salad spinner is very useful for this purpose; otherwise, drain in colander and dry leaves by placing them on a towel. Fill the towel with leaves, then roll it up and gently squeeze to remove excess water. 4. Pack Greens into Freezer Bags The dried spinach and greens are ready to be placed in freezer bags. For greens, bags are best (versus containers) to remove air to avoid freezer burn. Remove as much air as possible before sealing bags. (If you have one, a vacuum sealer system works well with kale.) Avoid over-packing bags. Flatten bags before sealing to create kale portions that thaw quickly. Label your bags so you know when you put them in the freezer. You can keep spinach and greens for 10 to 12 months. See how long you can freezer foods for. How much you pack in each bag depends on how you think you’ll use it. If you’re not sure, pack about one cup of spinach per bag. You could pack in smaller sandwich baggies, but I would still put everything in a gallon freezer bag which has thicker plastic. Into the freezer they go! Your frozen spinach and greens can be nutritious additions to soup stock and labeled “soup.” In later months, these greens can be spread around at the bottom of a quiche, used in numerous recipes, or tossed with butter (and cheese) and made into a yummy side dish. Enjoy! In later months, these greens can be spread around at the bottom of a quiche, used in smoothies or numerous other recipes, or tossed with butter (and cheese) and made into a yummy side dish. Or, just saute fresh greens in olive oil with garlic. Before serving, top with crushed red pepper. Or, make pesto! The list goes on… Enjoy! Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-freeze-spinach-and-other-greens Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 beckmall@netins.net tomatoes growing here images from Becky's Greenhouse Good morning, this is Saturday of a great week of weather for gardening. Temperatures were in the 70’s, night time in the 50’s. So enjoyable and so spring like. We haven’t had much of these days in May or April, so we can have some in June. Now next week, it will change. After all the rain we have gotten, the jet stream will be bringing us some more heat and humidity. I know the farmers will be happy for that because then the crops will really grow. For me, it will be watering twice a day but we can do that. I have to tell you the rains we did have “God’s water” really did brighten up the plants and the foliage. Nothing is better than that rain from the sky.
As the title says, we are starting the sale. Annuals, vegetables, geraniums, herbs, perennials, trees, shrubs are all on sale. I can’t say it enough how well everything looks, and it will really look good in your gardens or containers. Lots of color and it will be instant color for you. We are open Monday thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 1-6. Stop in and see us. Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-90-9365 image from Becky's Greenhouse Yes love my gardeners..." You have lots of plants left."
I say Thank YOU because this is what I planned on having plants to see the whole month of June for the gardens that need them. What you see in the pictures are the perennials. BUT lots of herbs, vegetables and annuals are still looking good. Right now the sale is all hanging baskets are $10.00, shrubs and roses are $10.00 off. "I have had trouble with vegetable seeds coming up" We have a large assortment of vegetable seeds in bulk. Asparagus crowns 2 for $1.00 The zinnias plants are probably the most impressive as they are just starting to bloom. Marigolds are all in bloom. We have coleus, begonias, of course the wave petunias in large 4 packs. Many other kinds of annual plants to add to your flower garden. I have heard that the rabbits ate off the cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower. Those plants look really good, so time to add more to your garden. Tomatoes and peppers are ready to go into your garden and still have a nice selection. What can I say...but this is in the plan for June so if you are in the need of plants we do have them for you. Monday thru Saturday 9-6 Sunday 1-6. Stop in and see us. Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337 641-903-9365 image from starkbros.com image from plantinstrucitons.com image from practicalselfreliance.com We are having some rainy weather this last weekend, and again today. The rain for us is going south but as close as Hampton. We are having clouds, and cooler temperatures but no rain. We are having gardeners stop and have a look. We have lots of variety of tomatoes and peppers. Our annual plants are looking good. Perennials are doing well. Shrubs and roses are 10.00 off this week. Hanging baskets are on sale. 10.00 or 12.00 Have you been looking for lemon grass? We have lots. We just took out lilies, daylilies from the greenhouse. We have hostas here. Are you looking for rhubarb plants, how about horseradish? We have them. We have lots of asparagus roots. Start a new bed or add to yours.
We have bulk seed for pole green beans in Blue Lake variety. I am hearing the gardeners are not finding the seeds in packets. We have them. .50 per Tablespoon So how do you grow your green beans? Here is what the almanac says. Green beans are a staple of so many vegetable gardens because they are so easy to grow—even in limited space—and incredibly productive! Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest green beans, including both the pole and bush types. About Green Beans All green beans (also called “string beans” or “snap beans”) are tender annuals. Though most green beans are indeed green, they also come in purple, red, yellow, and streaked varieties. What’s the Difference Between Bush Beans and Pole Beans? The main difference between the many types of green beans is whether their growing style is classified as “bush” or “pole.” Bush beans generally require less maintenance due to their size, but pole beans typically yield more beans for longer and are mostly disease-resistant. Bush beans produce in about 50 to 55 days; pole beans will take 55 to 65 days. Bush beans often come in all at once, so stagger your plantings every two weeks to get a continuous harvest. Pole beans need their vines to grow and will produce for a month or two if you keep harvesting. PLANTING Beans grow best in well-draining soil with normal fertility and an acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). They don’t typically need supplemental fertilizer because they fix their own nitrogen in the soil. However, particularly poor soil should still be amended with aged manure or compost in the fall prior to planting (or about a week before planting in the spring). Beans don’t like having their roots disturbed, so set up any supports for pole beans prior to planting. When to Plant Beans Beans grow best when direct-seeded outdoors. Sow any time after the last spring frost date, when soil have warmed to at least 48°F (9°C). Don’t plant too early, as cold, moist soil will delay germination and could cause the seeds to rot. Tip: To get a head start on planting, place black plastic or landscaping fabric over your garden beds to warm the soil prior to sowing seeds. Do not start green bean seeds indoors. Due to their fragile roots, they may not survive transplanting. Plus, they’re such fast growers that there’s no real advantage to starting them early indoors. How to Plant Beans Sow bush beans 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. Sow pole beans 1 inch deep, placing them around supports. Tip: Plant pole and bush beans a little deeper in sandy soils, but not too deep. Seedlings cannot push through soil that is too deep, heavy, dense, packed, and/or mulched; they will break their “necks” in trying to emerge. For pole beans, set up trellises, stakes, or other supports prior to planting so that the plants’ fragile roots are not disturbed. One option is to create a tepee: Tie three or four (or more) 7-foot-long bamboo poles or long, straight branches together at the top and splay the legs in a circle. Then plant three or four seeds around each pole. As vines appear, train them to wind up the poles. For more stability, wrap string/wire around the poles about halfway up, encircling the tepee; this gives the vines something to grab. Another easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them. For a continued harvest that lasts all summer, sow seeds every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away and unable to harvest, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone! Practice crop rotation (planting crops in different areas each year) to avoid the build up of pests and diseases in one spot. GROWING Mulch soil around bean plants to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained. Beans have shallow roots, so mulch keeps them cool. Water regularly, about 2 inches per square foot per week. If you do not keep beans well watered, they will stop flowering. Water on sunny days so that foliage will not remain soaked, which could encourage disease. If necessary, begin fertilizing after heavy bloom and the set of pods. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer or you will get lush foliage and few beans. A side dressing of compost or aged manure halfway through the growing season is a good alternative to liquid fertilizer. Weed diligently but carefully to avoid disturbing the beans’ roots. Pinch off the tops of pole bean vines when they reach the top of the support. This will force them to put energy into producing more pods instead. In high heat, use row covers over young plants; hot weather can cause blossoms to drop from plants, reducing the harvest. RECOMMENDED VARIETIES When it comes to green beans, the options are endless. Here are several types and varieties to consider: Chinese (aka Asian) long beans (aka yardlong or asparagus beans): slender, 1- to 2-foot pods. Try ‘Orient Wonder’, ‘Red Noodle’, or ‘Yardlong.’ All pole. French green beans (aka filet or haricots verts): thin, tender, 3- to 5-inch pods. Try ‘Calima’, ‘Masai’, or ‘Maxibel’; in a container, plant ‘Mascotte’. All bush. Italian/Romano: wide, flat 6- to 8-inch pods even in the hottest summers. Try ‘Early Bush Italian’, extra-large-pod ‘Jumbo’, or ‘Roma II’. All bush. Purple beans: 5- to 6-inch pods are deep purpose when raw and turn green when cooked. Try ‘Amethyst’, ‘Royal Burgundy’, or ‘Velour’. All bush. Snap beans (aka string or stringless): slender, 5- to 7-inch pods. Try ‘Blue Lake 274’ (bush), heirloom ‘Kentucky Wonder’ (bush or pole), or ‘Provider’ (bush). Yellow wax beans: 5- to 7-inch pods have a milder flavor than green varieties. Try stringless ‘Cherokee’ (bush), classic ‘Golden Wax’ (bush), or ‘Monte Gusto’ (pole). HARVESTING Harvest beans in the morning when their sugar level is highest. Pick green beans every day; the more you pick, the more beans grow. Green beans are picked young and tender before the seeds inside have fully developed. Look for firm, sizable pods that are firm and can be snapped—generally as thick as a pencil. Snap or cut the beans off the plant, being careful not to tear the plant. Fresh beans should snap easily when broken. Once you see the seeds inside bulging, green beans are past their peak and will taste tough. How to Store Green Beans Store beans in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Beans will toughen over time even when stored properly. Alternatively, blanch and freeze immediately after harvesting. Beans can also be canned or pickled. WIT AND WISDOM Beans are commonly used in everyday expressions to indicate something of little value. Something that “isn’t worth a hill of beans” is not worth much. According to folklore, in order to get rid of a wart, rub it with a bean and cast the bean over your shoulder without looking back. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/beans Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 We are really excited to offer a cute little planter for $5.00. We have others at 14.00, 18.00 and 25.00. We have hanging baskets at 12.00, 14.00, 18.00 so if you are need of a memorial planter we are here to help you. Open Mon thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 1-6 and also I will be here on Memorial day. HAVE to always water so I am here. Come and see us. Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 641-903-9365
BOY is it humid. We all worked hard yesterday moving plants out of the greenhouse and organizing the wagons and tall racks. Today, I am just going to wait on gardeners and the rest of the stuff will come out another day. Too humid too early. Tomorrow again it looks like with temperatures in the 90’s and heat level about 100. It looks like next week more seasonable weather with temperatures in the 70’s.
We moved out almost all the tomatoes outside on a wagon and tall racks. With this warmer weather, they are looking just right. So now hardening them off for you before you put into the garden. What did you grow in tomatoes and peppers this year, Becky? Here is the list. Before the list, here is a short article about planting tomatoes. Tips For Tomato Planting – How To Plant A Tomato Tomatoes are probably the most popular summer vegetable for experts and novices alike. Once all danger of frost is past and nighttime temperatures have risen above 55 F. (13 C.) degrees, it’s time to think about tomato planting. If you live in the South, tomato seeds can be sown directly into the garden. In cooler zones, you’ll be setting out transplants, and questions about how to plant tomatoes will arise. Tips for Planting Tomato Plants When planting tomato plants for family consumption, here’s a helpful tip. If you only want fresh fruit, purchase about three plants per person in your household. If you’re looking for fruit to process, you’ll need from five to ten seedlings per person. Before we talk about how to plant a tomato, let’s talk about what to look for before planting. Tomato plants should be straight and sturdy and six to eight inches (15 to 20.5 cm.) high. They should have four to six true leaves. Those six-cell packs will transplant just as well as the individually grown tomato. Planting will be the same for both, but make sure to tear the peat pot off around the top of the individual or make sure it sits beneath soil level. How to Plant a Tomato When asking about how to plant tomatoes, the first question is how deep. Tomatoes have the ability to grow roots along their stems, so when planting tomato plants, plant deep; right up to the first set of leaves. This takes care of those leggy tomato seedlings. If the plant is too long and wobbly, dig a small trench and lay the plant on its side, gently bending it into a right angle. Bury the stem in this position leaving those first two leaves exposed. Some gardeners believe those leggy starters will form a healthier plant than those with a more compact form. Water your seedlings in with a weak solution of high phosphorus fertilizer [3]. Now is the time to choose your support: stakes, cages or unsupported. How far apart to plant tomato seedlings depends on your chosen support. If you decide to use cages or stakes, place them now so you don’t damage the growing roots later. How Far Apart to Plant Tomato Plants Plants should be about 3 feet apart when tomato planting with cages. Staking only requires about 2 feet (0.5 m.) between plants. Loosely tie the plants to their stakes as they grow, but set the stakes when you set the seedlings. You’ll need 3 feet (1 m.) between the plants and 5 feet (1.5 m.) between the rows if you’re planting tomato plants to grow naturally. What did you grow in tomatoes this year, Becky? Here is the list. tomato amish paste tomato beefsteak tomato better bush $ tomato big beef $ tomato big boy $ tomato candy land red tomato celebrity tomato choc sprinkles tomato grape gabrielle tomato La Roma tomato lemon boy tomato Marzito tomato midnight snack tomato red large cherry tomato sunsugar $ tomato sweet 100 tomato yellow pear I have some more in the seed trays so will be adding more to this list. All I need is time to get it done. Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Just came off a great Saturday for weather, and had gardeners come to the greenhouse. Just can’t get 2 days in a row nice. So Sunday was cooler, windy and wet. NOW Monday it is very windy, and warming up with a front coming thru from the south. This will be hot, humid weather for the rest of the week. With that and the moisture we have there are 20% chance of rain each day. Tonight could be some severe weather, just have to see what the weather man said the CAP. If it stays in place, that will help with keeping the storms under control. See what happens. Have to keep an eye on the sky, because of severe weather then we can put under cover the wagons, and the tall racks. I hope to be back daily to share with you something from the greenhouse.
WHAT is new this year? Is a question always asked…..so how about fingerling potatoes? Give them a try and this is how. How to Grow Fingerlings Grow fingerling potatoes just as you would any potato. But keep in mind that all but 'French Fingerling' need at least 90 to 100 days of frost-free weather to produce tubers. Plant seed pieces in the garden after the last frost in your area. To avoid diseases, plant where potatoes or related plants (tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants) have not grown for at least a year. Make fingerling seed pieces smaller than those for ordinary potatoes. Cut tubers into 1-ounce disks that have at least 2 to 3 eyes per disk. Larger potato varieties usually require a 2-ounce piece. Set the seed pieces in 4- to 6-inch-deep planting holes or trenches. Because fingerling plants are usually larger and rangier than modern varieties, give them more room than you would typical potatoes: Space seed pieces about 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Like other potatoes, fingerlings need a loose, deep, sandy, or sandy loam soil, or soils generously amended with organic matter such as compost. Ideally, cultivate a 3- to 4-inch layer of composted manure into the planting bed early in the season. All potatoes need regular irrigation or rainfall throughout the season. But be especially careful to keep fingerlings' soil moist. Even brief dry periods will produce misshaped or smaller tubers. Once the plants have emerged from the ground, hill soil up, covering all but one-third of the sprout. Repeat hilling three to four weeks later. Mulch the rows with a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of straw mulch when plants emerge to help conserve moisture and stop weed seeds from germinating. How to Grow Fingerling Potatoes in a Container By: Caryn Anderson Thanks to the ease of container gardening, you don't even need a garden to grow a bumper crop of elegant, delicious fingerling potatoes (Solanum tuberosum). These small, finger-shaped potatoes typically take 90 to 110 days to mature, and they grow well in soil temperatures ranging from 45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, making them ideal for early- or late-season gardening. Place the container-grown fingerlings in a spot that receives direct sunlight for six hours or longer. You can use nearly any type of container to grow fingerling potatoes, including barrels, garbage cans, terracotta or plastic planters, or commercially available potato growing bags, which can be found online or at garden centers. Drainage and container size are two of the most important factors to keep in mind while choosing a planter. If the container lacks drainage holes or only has one hole, drill at least three to five 1/4-inch holes on the bottom to prevent soggy conditions. Allow 2 to 3 gallons of planter space for every fingerling potato you plan to plant. If you intend to plant three or four potatoes, select a 15-gallon container. If you're only planting one, a smaller container may suffice. Thanks to the ease of container gardening, you don't even need a garden to grow a bumper crop of elegant, delicious fingerling potatoes (Solanum tuberosum). Selecting Varieties Growing potatoes from fingerling potatoes purchased from the grocery store typically yields disappointing results because the potatoes are treated with a substance designed to retard sprouting. Instead, buy certified disease-free fingerling potato seeds from a local nursery or from a garden catalog. Growing fingerlings in a container Many varieties of fingerling potatoes grow well in containers, including "Russian Banana," a variety with 1- to 3-inch potatoes with yellow skin and yellow waxy, moist flesh. "Swedish Peanut," which yields tubers that grow 1 to 2/1/2 inches long, has yellow, nutty-flavored flesh. For show-stopping color, try growing "Purple Peruvian," which grows 3/4- to 2-inch potatoes with purple flesh and skin. Planting Fingerlings Prepare the fingerling seeds by cutting tubers into small 1-ounce rounds with at least two eyes on each piece. Choose a high quality, soil-less potting mix to reduce exposing the fingerling potatoes to the diseases and pests that naturally occur in garden soil. Growing potatoes from fingerling potatoes purchased from the grocery store typically yields disappointing results because the potatoes are treated with a substance designed to retard sprouting. For show-stopping color, try growing "Purple Peruvian," which grows 3/4- to 2-inch potatoes with purple flesh and skin. Place 3 to 4 inches of the potting mix on the bottom of the container. Mix in two handfuls of organic starter fertilizer and arrange the seed pieces in the container. According to the National Gardening Association, fingerling potato plants generally grow larger and need extra room between seeds than other potatoes. Allow approximately 18 inches of space between the seed pieces. Cover the seeds with another 4 to 6 inches of soil, lightly tamp it down and water the container thoroughly. Caring for Plants Water the container regularly, adding at least 1 inch to the container weekly. Feel the potting mix every few days, and add water as needed to maintain evenly moist -- but not wet or soggy -- soil. As the young potato plants grow, hill them by adding enough soil or compost around the seedlings so that only 3 inches of the plant shows. Place 3 to 4 inches of the potting mix on the bottom of the container. Cover the seeds with another 4 to 6 inches of soil, lightly tamp it down and water the container thoroughly. Fertilize the plants once every month with an organic fertilizer formulated for vegetables. Blend approximately 2 tablespoons of the fertilizer for every 1 square foot of planting space into the top 1 to 3 inches of potting mix. Avoid overhead watering and check the plants once a week for signs of a Colorado potato beetle infestation, heralded most commonly by the presence of orange eggs located on the leaves' undersides. Remove and crush the eggs. Spray the leaves of the plant with Bacillus thuringiensis san diego, a food-safe insecticide, to kill larvae. Good luck and give these a try. Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 What a thrill to have a hummingbird fly into the greenhouse and just a foot from me. He will find lots of nectar with all these blooming plants. I forgot to show pictures of my newest display. Potted plants ready to go into your home or office. Pick up, enjoy and watch them grow. Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365 Enjoy this warmer day and sun is going to be out.
Looks like a better Friday, and Saturday sounds like it will be an awesome day. How we appreciate when the weather is like that. We have been working hard to get plants outside for your shopping and really make room inside for more planting to do. Yes, we are still planting.
What do you have for my mom this Mother’s Day? I will name and show you a few ideas.
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AuthorHi! My name is Becky and I am a master gardener. I own Becky's Greenhouse in Dougherty, Iowa. Archives
June 2022
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