image from Evelyn McAdam

     ​       It looks great out, as there is a clear, blue sky.  Temperature at 8:45 AM is 32 degrees.  High today is to be 50 degrees.  Average temperature is 39.  So enjoy because we will not have many more days like this.  Tonight, low of 26.  Tomorrow a cold front coming thru so it will be cold and windy.  All next week we will have the average temperatures to start out Dec.
In the Northern Hemisphere, we are going into winter.   Our family is Australia in the southern Hemisphere is going into summer.  Larry’s sister Evelyn’s garden is blooming like crazy as it is their spring.  Here is one of her plants.  I don’t think we have anything like that here.  What do you think? 
My heath leafed Banksia is loving this warm weather, a common native bush/tree. The birds and insects love them. I don't know if you are familiar with the stories of Snugglepot and Cuddlepie, written by May Gibbs. In it are the banksia men. They are the seed cones left once the flowers are spent. They are very hard, lots of artists make things like coasters and essential oil diffusers out of them.
Evelyn McAdam said also  It is tough, likes it dry and hotl perfect for our summer.
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

image from www.almanac.com

Hope all of you had a blessed Thanksgiving.  Larry and I had a quiet dinner but we Facetime with the kids so that was good.  Even though it was just us two, I cooked and baked all day for it.  So the best part is the left overs.  I will also freeze some for future meals.  Working on deep cleaning, so hope to finish that area this weekend.  Being in the greenhouse from Feb. till October takes time to get the office and the house back into order.  Looks like a great day outside, with blue clear sky but the temperature is on the colder side.  NOW this weekend will be nice, till Sunday and all next week.  COLD spell moving thru.  So high in the 30’s and the lows in the teens.  Gives us a taste of winter.  Enjoy the weather we are having now.  Stay safe. 
Interesting about the Thanksgiving wild turkey.  They are not a very pretty bird and wonder how much meat is on them. 
THE WILD TURKEY: HISTORY OF AN ALL-AMERICAN BIRD  By The Editors
The American Wild Turkey has become an iconic symbol of Thanksgiving. Perhaps a brief history about our native bird is in order.
BRIEF HISTORY OF WILD TURKEYS
In the early 1800’s, Alexander Wilson provided so much information on the natural history of the turkey in his encyclopedic American Ornithology that John James Audubon was unable to truly improve on the knowledge of the species in his later book, Birds of America.
Benjamin Franklin—commenting on the design of the national seal—disparages the bald eagle, writing that the eagle was “a bird of bad moral character.” When the idea of the turkey is raised, he expresses preference, stating that “the Turkey is in Comparison a much more respectable Bird, and withal a true original Native of America… a Bird of Courage, and would not hesitate to attack a Grenadier of the British Guards who should presume to invade his Farm Yard with a red Coat on.”
WILD TURKEYS IN THE AMERICAS
The first description of the turkey was written by Oviedo in 1525 in his General and Natural History of the Indies.
Domestic turkeys were first raised by Native Americans in Mexico and Central America, who bred them into domestication from a subspecies of the North American wild turkey maybe as early as 25 A.D.
Spanish explorers took some of those domesticated turkeys back to Europe around 1519. They spread rapidly among European farmers, and were popular fare among the elites.
In 1541, Archbishop Cranmer ordered that large fowl such as cranes, swans and turkeys “should be but one in a dish”. The turkey became a common dish at all festivals in England during the 1500s. They were the usual fare at Christmas Dinner.
RETURN TO THE AMERICAS!
Turkeys returned to the Americas with English colonists in Virginia and Massachusetts in the early 1600s. Those colonists were surprised to learn that Native Americans were already tapped into the native wild turkeys that had remained part of the American landscape all along.
Audubon once had a pet turkey in Henderson, Kentucky that he caught at the age of 2 days old. It became the favorite of the village and followed anyone who called it. At age 2 years it flew off and did not return. A while later, Audubon’s ordered his dog to chase a large gobbler he saw during a walk of 5 miles. The turkey paid no attention to the dog and Audubon realized it was his favorite pet, being unafraid of the dog.
TO EXTINCTION AND BACK
Turkeys were numerous in Massachusetts in oak and chestnut forests. From 1711 to 1717, they sold at market for 1 shilling 4 pence, but by 1820 the birds had greatly declined and the price had increased 10 fold. The last turkey was killed in Massachusetts in 1821.
During most of the 20th century, Wild Turkeys almost went extinct due to habitat loss. But due to an ambitious relocation program, the Wild Turkey can now be found in large numbers in every state in the US except Alaska.
In New Hampshire, we often see wild turkeys in wooded areas at this time of year, enjoying plant nuts and berries. Cars stop in awe of these beautiful birds meandering through the forest.
WILD TURKEY FACTS
The Wild Turkey is a different creature than its factory-farmed cousin found in grocery stores. Domestic turkeys are big business today.
Young turkey birds are called poults, and an adolescent is called a jake.
As soon as 24 hours after hatching, a young poult is up and running around in search of food.
When a turkey is excited, it can change the color of its head to red, pink, white or blue.
A wild turkey can run as fast as 25 miles per hour. The domestic turkey has been bred through hundreds of generations to have shorter legs and is much slower on its feet.
The wild turkey can fly more than a mile at a time and at speeds up to 55 miles per hour. The domestic turkey has been bred to have outsized, meaty breasts, sacrificing its ability to fly along the way.
Wild turkeys are wary and difficult to catch; they also have acute eyesight. Domestic turkeys have no fear of humans.
You will find that wild turkeys sleep in trees, roosting high up in the branches every night.
-Tom Warren has had an interest in birds since the age of 3, when he lived across from the President of the Massachusetts Audubon Society, who showed Tom how to care for injured birds. Later, a neighboring grandmother taught him the songs of warblers and thrushes, and in the eighth grade, his Middle School biology teacher took his class on birding excursions every weekend. Tom has guided bird walks and owl prowls for conservation groups, and has also participated in annual Christmas Bird Counts and the Hawk Watch on Pack Monadnock Mountain. Throughout the years, he has spent time at Pt. Pelee in Ontario observing the spring migration and has traveled to a variety of other migration areas. Tom is also committed to protecting birds and their habitat as a Trustee for both Massachusetts and New Hampshire Audubon, and the Harris Nature Center.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/wild-turkey-history-all-american-bird
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from oldfarmersalmanac. com 

     ​      Day before Thanksgiving.  I am cooking, baking, cleaning to get ready for a small dinner for Larry and I.   Can I cook for just 2 probably not, but will have leftovers and I will freeze what I can?  What are you doing for Thanksgiving?  It will be a different one for us.  Looks like the adult children we will FACETIME with and the cousins have a game planned to do.  We will still be together.  Happy Thanksgiving to all of you.  Have a blessed one.  Stay safe and well.
Now this is something I have never heard about before that the wishbone from a foul can predict the weather.  Interesting and I will try it and see if it is right.  How about you?  Have you heard this before? 
PREDICTING WEATHER WITH A WISHBONE
FORETELLING WEATHER: THE OL' GOOSE BONE METHOD
By Warren Evans
Can you really predict weather with a wishbone? Back around the turn of the last century, in the days before the National Weather Service, the so-called goose bone method was a famous weather-forecasting technique. Here’s how to try it at home.
Of course, many of us have broken the dried “wishbone” with another person. The person who ends up with the larger part of the bone gets to make their wish. Some of us may even recall that old-fashioned pastime of making wishbone necklaces.
A WISHBONE FOR WEATHER PREDICTING?
An even more peculiar use for the wishbone was to use it as a sort of weather instrument. Here’s how it worked, according to the author:
Around Thanksgiving, a bird from a local farm would be slaughtered and cooked. Our tradition was to bring home a goose.
Grandma would roast it, carve it, and serve it, always being careful not to cut the wishbone from the carcass.
After the goose had been eaten, she would carefully remove the wishbone and cut away all the meat and fat left clinging to it. Grandpa would take the bone and put it on a shelf to dry, keeping an eye out for the coloration that would follow. If the bone turned blue, black, or purple, a cold winter lay ahead.
White indicated a mild winter.
Purple tips were a sure sign of a cold spring.
A blue color branching out toward the edge of the bone, meant open weather until New Year’s Day.
If the bone was a dark color, or blue all over, the prediction was for a really bad winter.
That’s all there was to it.
An overall dark color meant that the bird had absorbed a lot of oil, which acted as a natural protection against the cold.
The darker the blue coloring, the tougher the winter ahead would probably be.
Of course, back in the day, all the geese were local and not factory-farmed. Just like persimmon seeds and woolly worm caterpillars, not just any goose will do!
Would this work for any fowl, including the Thankgiving turkey? Try it out and see what you think.
SOURCE:
The 1980 Old Farmer's Almanac, 2020
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/forecasting-weather-wishbone
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

image from nurseytrees.com

       ​      We have snow on the grass.  It rained so on the roads, sidewalks it is slush.  So be careful if you are out and about.  Today moisture as in rain today, tonight, and tomorrow. But on Thanksgiving looks like it will be partly to mostly cloudy with a temperature of 50 degrees. 34 degrees now at 11:00 AM.  Gives us an idea of what we will have soon with winter coming.  Be safe.  I am posting an article about trees that I am not too familiar with.  I know I should be because they are used a lot.  Let us know how you like your ARBORVITAE. 
HOW TO PLANT, GROW, AND PRUNE ARBORVITAE TREES  By The Editors
Arborvitae are a popular and attractive evergreen tree that are commonly used in landscaping. Here’s how to plant, grow, and prune arborvitae in your home garden!
ABOUT ARBORVITAE
The elegant American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) is a hardy, native evergreen with a narrow pyramid shape. It’s a natural choice for privacy hedges and windbreaks when planted in rows. Dwarf and miniature cultivars make great accent plants or foundation plantings, too. Arborvitae will add color and texture to your landscape. Plus, easy care requirements make this a rewarding plant to grow.
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT ARBORVITAE
Plant in early spring when the soil can be worked or in the fall before the ground freezes.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE
Choose a location in full sun or partial shade.
Amend the soil by digging in about 2 inches of compost or aged manure.
HOW TO PLANT ARBORVITAE
Dig the planting hole 2 to 3 times as wide and as deep as the root ball.
Loosen some of the roots in the root ball.
Plant the arborvitae in the hole so that the top edge of the root ball is level with the top of the hole.
Back-fill with soil around the root ball, tamping down with your hands.
Soak the soil in the hole when you have filled it ½ full.
Finish filling to the top edge of the root ball.
Water deeply.
Add a 2 inch layer of aged shredded wood mulch or pine straw around the arborvitae to conserve moisture. Avoid placing mulch directly against the stem.
CARE
HOW TO GROW ARBORVITAE
Keep the soil consistently moist the first growing season. Don’t let the soil dry out but be careful not to over-water.
Established arborvitae will require extra water only during prolonged periods of drought.
Use stakes for support as newly planted arborvitaes are vulnerable to wind.
Fertilize the arborvitae in the spring with a slow-release high-nitrogen shrub/tree fertilizer.
HOW TO PRUNE ARBORVITAE
Arborvitae do not require a lot of pruning.
Plants that are used in formal hedges and foundation plantings can be trimmed with hedge shears to shape and to spur new growth.
Prune in early spring before new growth emerges.
Trim from the bottom up.
Shorten branches that are expanding beyond the desired length.
Prune damaged branches anytime.
HOW TO PROPAGATE ARBORVITAE
Take stem cuttings in late summer or fall.
Cut 4 to 5 inch cuttings from current year’s branch growth.
Remove the leaves on the bottom half of the cutting.
Fill a small pot with organic soil mix or a mixture of sand and peat moss.
Stick the cutting into rooting hormone and then into the pot.
Water and cover the pot with a plastic dome or clear plastic wrap.
Place the pot in a location with filtered light.
Water if soil gets dry.
It will take 6 to 8 weeks for the roots to form.
Remove the plastic covering.
Transplant into a bigger pot with soil.
Plant outdoors the following spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Insect pests  Spider mites
Bagworms (occasionally)
Arborvitae leafminer
Animal pests  Deer
Red squirrel
Diseases Needle blight
Botrytis twig blight
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
The American arborvitae is a tall, dense, broad-pyramidal evergreen. This native tree can reach heights of 40’ to 60’. Choose plants with strong central stem to avoid damage from wind, snow or ice.
‘Brandon’ is a conical evergreen that can reach a height of 15’ and a width of 8’.  This cultivar is mildly fragrant and has scale-like foliage. It will tolerate a wide range of soil types as long as periodic deep watering is provided.
‘Emerald Green’ is a favorite for hedges. It grows to15 feet tall and 4 feet wide forming a tall column of brilliant green foliage.
‘Art Boe’ also called North Pole arborvitae is a narrow upright shrub. It can grow for years in a container or if planted in the ground it grows to 15 feet.
‘Hetz Midget’ is a hardy dwarf that reaches 3 to 4 feet tall. Its naturally round form makes it ideal for foundation plantings.
‘Tom Thumb’ is a miniature and grows only 12 to 15 inches tall. It is a dense multi-stemmed shrub with a rounded form, perfect for containers or rock gardens.
WIT & WISDOM
The name arborvitae is the Latin form of the French l’arbre de vie, which means, “tree of life.”
The genus name, Thuja, is from a Greek word for perfume.
Arborvitae was the first North American tree to be introduced to Europe.
Other names for arborvitae include northern white-cedar, eastern white-cedar, and swamp-cedar.
The oldest living arborvitae is over 1,000 years old.
Native Americans made baskets from the roots and used the leaves in tea.
The wood is used for log cabins, fence posts, shingles, paneling, canoes, and wood crafting.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/arborvitae
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

      ​      We had a good weekend.  How about you?  Weather wasn’t bad at all, so I know Christmas lights went up, Christmas trees were purchased, and decorating has started.  Not at this house.  I am doing some deep cleaning, so it looks like that in the house.  BUT that is coming.  Garbage truck took some of that away today.  I love to bake so did that this weekend, plus doing more today.  I use potatoes to make my raised donuts but also I use potatoes to make potato rolls.  Today I am going to use that recipe to make some bread.  That lead me to this article about the uses of the humble potato.  She doesn’t list these breads with it, but I use the mashed potato all the time.  See what you think?
SURPRISING USES FOR THE HUMBLE POTATO  By Margaret Boyles
Our modern potato came from southern Peru, domesticated there 7,000 to 10,000 years ago. Humble, homely, and earthy, the potato has traveled around the world, exerting an extraordinary influence on global civilizations for centuries.
No wonder. Potatoes are productive and easy to grow. They keep for a long time without processing and fit into any meal plan. Serve them for breakfast (hash browns), scalloped, mashed with roasted garlic, in a shepherd’s pie or even a pie crust. Cook up a potato dessert to rival anything the zucchini can serve up.
Despite their bad rap for fueling the obesity epidemic (French fries comprise one-quarter of the “vegetables” Americans eat each day), potatoes are nutritious, too, especially served skin-and-all without gravy or other fatty toppings.
They offer a good source of potassium, vitamin C, some B vitamins, and antioxidants. And though they don’t contain much of it, potatoes boast very high-quality (complete) protein.
More then good nutrition and taste.
But you can put potatoes to many good, if unusual, uses around the home. To list a few:
Remove a broken light bulb from its socket safely. Just cut a thick slice from one end of a large, raw potato and press the cut surface of the remaining potato into the jagged glass. Twist to unscrew and toss into the trash, potato and all. (Probably a good idea to make sure the socket is switched off).
Remove excess salt from a soup or stew. Just cut up a raw potato or two and add to the broth.
Reduce puffy under-eyes. Lay a slice of raw potato over each eye and lie back for a few minutes.
Remove stains on clothing, carpets, upholstery. Grate a couple of raw potatoes into a cup or two of water and allow to soak. Squeeze out the potato shreds and daub the water on the stain. Alternatively, try rubbing the stain with the cut edge of a raw potato.
Remove stains on hands that come from working with berries, beets and other plant materials. Just rub hands with the cut surfaces of a raw potato.
Hold decorative arrangements (flowers, branches) in place. Poke holes in a large potato set at the bottom of a bowl and arrange your flowers, herbs or branches in the holes to keep them in place. Add water if needed.
Remove tarnish from silverware and other items by soaking them in potato water (left after boiling potatoes). Of course, if you don’t have any tarnish to remove, add the potato water to a soup stock. (Or soak your feet in it. Many swear by this folk remedy for tired, aching feet.)
Power a clock (or other small electronic device) on potatoes.
Maybe even power the batteries of the future.
Make potato prints. Potato printing is an old art, fun for children and adults alike. Kids and grownups alike can use simple stamps cut from raw potatoes for homemade note cards, wrapping paper, T-shirts and other fabrics, even door frames, mantels, and floors, depending on which paint you choose. Clicking on many of these potato images will take you to a page of instructions for one or another potato-carving or printing technique.
Folk medicine. Most parts of the world that grow and eat potatoes also use potatoes for a wide variety of traditional medical applications. Raw, juiced, cooked, applied externally or taken internally, potatoes have been used to treat conditions as diverse as burns, infections, various cancers, constipation, and acne, as well as to soothe pain, treat migraines, and ease mild to moderate depression.
"Living Naturally" is all about living a naturally healthy lifestyle. Margaret Boyles covers health tips, ways to avoid illness, natural remedies, food that's good for body and soul, recipes for homemade beauty products, ideas to make your home a healthy and safe haven, and the latest news on health. Our goal is also to encourage self-sufficiency, whether it's relearning some age-old skills or getting informed on modern improvements that help us live better, healthier lives.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/more-potato-meets-mouth
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image from gardentips.com

            Sun is shining, blue clear sky and temperature is 44 degrees at 1:35PM.  I post the weather because that is a safe thing we know that is going on for sure.   Looks like the next 7 days the temperatures will be in the 40’s and night time around 25 to 30 degrees.  No snow predicted so this is good.  NOT like last year, we had a lot of snow over Thanksgiving.  We can count our blessings for that.  Stay safe and healthy everyone.
Have you ever been annoyed by tiny flying insects that seem to appear every time you water your houseplants? Those are gnats, more specifically, they are most likely "fungus gnats." These gnats are attracted to the damp soil in which your houseplants sit. They need the moist soil as a haven to lay their eggs and the organic matter in the soil to feed their larvae. Besides being annoying, this feeding behavior can do serious damage to plants.
About Fungus Gnats
Although they look a lot like tiny mosquitoes, fungus gnats are small flies in the Orfelia and Bradysia species. They can be identified by their narrow legs, light gray or clear wings, and segmented antennae that are larger than their heads. These are fairly tiny insects. The adults grow to about 1/16 to 1/8 inch long.  SO SMALL I AM WONDERING IF YOU CAN SEE ALL OF THAT.
  Fungus gnats are not strong fliers, so they tend to remain near their source of food, which is the organic matter and fungus in the soil of your potted houseplants. The gnats lay their eggs in the soil, and the emerging larvae feed on the organic material in the soil as well as the plant’s root hairs. The larvae are 1/4 inch long translucent white or gray worms with shiny black heads. They may go unnoticed at this stage unless you have a crop of them, then you could see slime trails similar to those of snails and slugs.
Damage
The good news is that fungus gnats do not bite people or pets. The adult gnats don’t do much damage to plants, either; rather, it’s the larvae that will munch on your plant's tiny feeder roots, limiting the plant's ability to take up nutrients and stunting its growth. This is more of a problem in nurseries, where susceptible young seedlings are grown in damp conditions. While you may not be growing your plants in a nursery or greenhouse setting, with a large enough population, they can pose a threat to common houseplants, too. If you notice these gnats flitting about and your plants seem to wilt for no reason, it could be root damage being caused by the feeding larvae.
Since it is the larvae doing the bulk of the damage, it helps to be aware of the fungus gnat’s life cycle. In a warm house, the tiny eggs can hatch into larvae in only three days and they remain in the larval stage for about another 10 days before they develop into pupae. Then, approximately four days later, the adults emerge and start the cycle all over again. They can produce a new generation of fungus gnats in less than three weeks, so catching them early will make it easier to eliminate them.
Controlling Infestations
If you do find a fungus gnat problem, try to quarantine the infected pots away from other houseplants, so the problem does not get worse or spread. Since both the majority of the life of fungus gnats and the damage they do take place when they are in the soil, this is a good place to begin targeting them.
The easiest first step is to allow the soil to remain dry for several days before watering again. Then, both the eggs and the larvae will eventually die off in dry soil. Also, remove any standing water from runoff saucers. Another easy tip is to use a sterile potting mix because there is not as much organic matter for the young to feed on.  FOR ME, THAT ISN”T A PROBLEM TO LET THE HOUSEPLANTS DRY OUT.  THAT IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU FORGET TO WATER.
Traps
Existing fungus gnat larvae can be trapped using pieces of raw potato. Place the potato pieces flesh side down on the soil and check under them every couple of days. Remove any feeding larvae and replace the potato with fresh pieces.
The adults have short lives, but reducing their population will also reduce the number of new eggs being laid. The best way to control adult fungus gnats is with yellow sticky traps. These are exactly what they sound like: sheets of yellow paper with adhesive on them. Yellow sticky traps can be found in the pesticide section of your garden center.
The gnats are attracted to the color yellow and get stuck on the traps. When the trap is full, throw it away and put up another one. It’s not a pretty sight, but it is an easy, non-toxic way to eliminate large quantities of adult fungus gnats. It is also a great way to monitor for the presence of fungus gnats and to see if their population has become a problem.
 Biologicals Controls
There are a handful of biological controls for fungus gnats, but they are mainly used in greenhouses where plants are being propagated. If a gnat problem gets so out of hand with houseplants that you are considering biological controls, you are probably better off sacrificing your houseplants and starting over.
However, if you would like to give botanical controls a try, the best choice would be Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Bti), bacteria that are used for mosquito control in ponds. These bacteria also control gnats but pose no risk to people or pets. Look for "Bt" as mosquito dunks or granules in the pest control section or near pond supplies. You will probably need more than one application but follow label instructions.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/control-gnats-in-plants-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

image from wikihow

image from tulipworld.com 

      ​   I have opened up the greenhouse door this morning, as the outside temperature is going up. We are at 61 degrees at 12:00 PM noon. Unbelievable for Nov 19 with a predicted high of 68.  Tonight, a low of 37.  Larry can let the wood stove for the greenhouse go out.  That outdoor wood furnace heats up hot water, that in turn keeps the greenhouse warm.  Stay safe. 
     In researching about forcing tulips, I came across this one using water.  Just like I have done with the hyacinth bulbs.  Have any of you done this?  Let us know. 

1. Select one or more top-quality, early-blooming, large, tulip bulbs in one or a mix of colors. Not all varieties of tulips can be forced. Packages of bulbs often state whether they are suitable for forcing. If you are in doubt, check with a salesperson at the garden center.

         2 Condition your tulip bulb or bulbs to prepare them to bloom. Place the bulbs in a cool, dark space for 15 to 17 weeks. The temperature needs to be a constant 38 to 48 degrees Fahrenheit. The vegetable bin in your refrigerator likely provides ideal conditions.
        3 Place pebbles or small decorative stones into a waterproof bowl. Fill the bowl about two-thirds full so that the stones don't tumble over the rim. The depth of the bowl needs to accommodate at least 4 inches of pebbles to allow room for the tulip roots as they develop.
       4 Set your bulb on top of the stones so the pointed end stands straight up. This is the part of the tulip bulb from which the leaves will sprout. Make certain the bulb is sitting securely and won't topple. If you group several bulbs together, leave an inch of space between them to allow for growth.
     5 Add water to the bowl so that the level is beneath the bulb but does not touch it. The pebbles initially wick the water upward and feed the bulb. This allows roots to grow into the water without rotting the base of the bulb.
     6 Place the bowl in a cool, dark area for an additional four to six weeks. This encourages the roots to develop first, which allows each tulip plant to develop stronger leaves and stems.
      7 Set the bowl in a sunny, warm spot after roots have developed. Maintain the water level so that it covers the roots but not the bulb. Colorful tulip blooms will appear within a few weeks.
Taken from https://homeguides.sfgate.com/force-tulip-bulbs-water-41630.html
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from youtube.calaryherald

      ​       Almost clear sky this morning, wispy clouds with the sun. Lots of wind coming from the south which will warm us up.  In fact, the high today will be during the night.  Next couple of days will be warmer.  For Larry he can let the wood stove go out for the greenhouse, that will be good.  It looks like Thanksgiving week will be dry, warmer which we will take.  Not like last year, we had lots of snow. 
I have tulip bulbs left over, so found this article about forcing them to bloom.  My trouble will be finding that spot that is 32 to 50 degrees.  I will try the unheated part of the west greenhouse.  I will let you know when we do this.  Have any of you tried this? 
By National Gardening Association Editors
For those who can never get enough of tulips or can't wait until they spring up naturally in the garden, they can be forced indoors. To "force" a bulb means to create an environment where the bulb grows when it naturally wouldn't. By following these steps, you can buy tulip bulbs when they're available in fall and force them to bloom for the holidays or any time during the winter.
Tools and Materials
Clay or plastic pots
Soilless potting mix
Tulip bulbs
Hose or watering can
Choose the right varieties. In general, shorter-growing varieties such as the species Tulipa humilis (or the very similar T. puchella) are the easiest to force indoors. But 'Apricot Beauty' is a good example of a taller variety that forces well. Select large, firm bulbs, avoiding soft smaller-sized ones, and store them in a cool place until you're ready to force them.
Plant at the right time. You can start forcing tulips in October for blooms by Christmas, or later in fall for blooms by midwinter. Generally, tulips need at least 12 to 16 weeks to bloom if started in September or October, but only 8 to 10 weeks if started in December.
Tulips grow best in clay pots, which dry out faster than plastic pots. Choose a deeper pot for tall varieties, a shallower one for shorter kinds. Be sure the pots have drainage holes in the bottom. Partially fill the pot with moistened soilless potting mix.
Use as many bulbs as can fit in the pot without touching. The more in the pot, the more dramatic the flower show. Place the bulbs root end down so their tops sit just below the rim of the pot. Cover them with enough soil so that only the bulb noses are showing. Water well. Label with the variety and planting date.
Chill bulbs. Before tulips will sprout and produce flowers, they need a chilling period to simulate winter. Without this period, the bulbs won't grow or won't produce a good-quality flower. You can simulate winter by placing the potted bulbs at 32 degrees F to 50 degrees F in a dark area such as an unheated garage or basement. A refrigerator crisper works well, but never put them next to fruits such as apples that emit ethylene, a gas that hinders flowering. In warm areas, you can even leave them outdoors as long as the temperature doesn't go below freezing or above 50 degrees F . Just keep the pots moist. Depending on the variety and planting time, they'll need 8 to 16 weeks of chilling. Check the drainage holes for root development and look for bulb sprouts starting to grow as signs they've had enough chilling.
If you don't have room for all the planted pots, try placing the unplanted bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator crisper for six weeks (always without fruit in the refrigerator at the same time), then pot them and place them in a 55 degree F dark room for a month. Then bring them into a 65 degree F room to grow and flower.
Forcing bulbs to flower. Bring the chilled pots into a 50 degree F to 65 degree F room with bright, indirect light for about two weeks. The warmer the temperature, the shorter the flowering stems and faster the bulbs will flower. When the bulb shoots are 2 inches tall, move the pots to a sunny 68 degree F location. They'll flower within a week or so. The cooler the temperatures (60 degrees F is ideal at night), the longer the flowers will last.
Tips
Once tulips have finished flowering, you can throw them into the compost or cut back the flowering stem and let the leaves die back naturally.
To prevent the potting mix from leaching out the drainage hole when watering the container, place a piece of window screen in the base of the pot before adding the potting mix. This allows the water to drain but keeps the potting mix in the pot.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/1326/?utm_source=nl&utm_medium=mail&utm_campaign=nl_2020-10-24
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

image from flowering-gardening made easy.com 

      ​      Clouds to the west this morning, east sky is clear and blue.  I know what is going to happen…partly cloudy skies.  It is cool out but it is near normal for this time of year.  Wed and Thursday for us looks like a warmer weather so that will be good.  Stay safe.
I will try some this winter to force bulbs.  Have you tried any before?  Let us know. 
Give flowering bulbs this holiday season! Learn how to plant flowering bulbs indoors for Christmas bloom—and how to create simple Christmas gifts using popular bulbs that will quickly bloom and continue to flower until the weather warms again.
Whether it’s a particular smell which triggers childhood memories or the way they brighten a dull winter’s day, spring bulbs grown indoors are a wonderful gift, bringing the spirit of spring to your house even when your garden is dormant.
POTTING UP SPRING BULBS FOR CHRISTMAS AND BEYOND!
Flowering spring bulbs bring color, vibrancy and life to the garden, so what better Christmas gift for your nearest and dearest than a bowl of these beautiful blooms? Or why not treat yourself? In this video we’ll show you how to plant three easy-to-grow bulbs. Kept indoors they will come into flower weeks ahead of those grown outdoors, cheating the seasons and bringing a guaranteed smile to anyone’s face.
HYACINTHS
Few people can resist the sweet, heady scent of a hyacinth in full bloom. Grown indoors its floral aroma quickly fills a room, permeating the air with irresistible fragrance. Available in a range of colors, including white, blues, pinks and yellow, hyacinths are exceptionally easy to grow.
Look for specially prepared bulbs that have been pre-chilled to trick the bulbs into thinking winter has already past. Plant the bulbs in containers or special hyacinth jars. They can grow in any planting medium, whether standard potting soil, wet gravel or even water on its own.
Hyacinth jars have an hourglass shape. Its pinched-in waste supports the bulb just above the water sitting in the bottom half of the jar. Finished with a bow this simple gift promises to pack a powerful punch of color and scent.
Prepare your gift by pouring in water up to the jar’s waist. Now position the bulb so its base sits a fraction above the water below. In this way the bulb has access to moisture without any risk of it rotting. The water will occasionally need to be topped up to stay at this level. Pop the jar into a cool, dark place—a refrigerator, cellar or unheated garage is ideal—and keep it there until roots appear and establish. This usually takes about three weeks, at which point the jar can be moved into a bright, airy room to encourage the flowers to develop.
Alternatively arrange bulbs in shallow bowls or dishes filled with gravel, pebbles or anything else that holds the bulbs upright. Plant them close together so that they sit side by side without touching. Fill the bowl with water to the base of the bulbs then finish off with a decorative dressing of floral marbles, coloured stone chippings, bark or any other loose material of your choice.
PAPERWHITE NARCISSI
Paperwhite narcissi are equally easy to grow. Each bulb produces two to three stems of brilliant-white flowers that create a decadent yet sophisticated arrangement. Bulbs sold for indoor growing don’t require a chilling period and will flower within a matter of weeks, making them ideal last-minute gifts for green-fingered loved ones.
Just like hyacinths, potting soil isn’t essential when growing paperwhites. Try planting the bulbs in a clear vase filled with colored glass beads. Or fill urns or planters with beads or gravel. Nestle the bulbs in position so that one third to a half of each bulb is still visible. Don’t be afraid to pack them in; this way you’ll guarantee a display with real impact. Fill the bowl with water so that the base of the bulbs only just touch the water. Once the roots appear you can drop the water level so it isn’t touching the bulbs.
The lanky flower stems can be top-heavy, causing them to flop over. Encourage shorter, sturdier stems by watering your bulbs with an alcohol solution once they have established their roots, usually within a week of planting. Mix one-part vodka or gin to seven parts water. Drain off the water and replace with the mildly alcoholic solution. The alcohol makes it harder for the bulbs to take up water. While the result is less foliage and stem growth, the quality and quantity of flowers remains unaffected.
AMARYLLIS
Also known by their botanical name Hippeastrum, the amaryllis is the last word in bold and brazen beauty. It is the traditional bulb for Christmas giving, with its larger-than-life trumpet blooms in many colors.
Plant the chunky bulbs individually in containers slightly wider than the bulb. Amaryllises need soil to support their roots. Fill the pot with damp potting soil then sit the bulb on top. Now fill in around the bulb to leave a third of it exposed. You can hide the bulb if you prefer; moss, bark chipping or pinecones give a lovely natural look. The thick flower stalks don’t take long to appear with blooms following on just four to six weeks from planting.
Accessorize potted amaryllises by adding a luxurious bow, cut winter stems of dogwood or willow, or by planting the bulb with foliage plants such as English ivy and ferns for added interest.
Keep the bulbs lightly moist while they settle in then water more regularly as they start to grow – once a week is about right. Amaryllises thrive at a warm room temperature of 70 Fahrenheit or 21 degrees Celsius but can be moved into a cooler room to prolong the life of the blooms.
Give flowering bulbs this holiday season and you’ll be sharing the gift of springtime.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/flowering-bulbs-christmas
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337, cell phone 641-903-9365

image from blogspot.com

      ​     We had a wonderful post this weekend about the family Christmas cactus that has been passed down for 112 years.  It has been fun to see the post of the plants from all the generations.  GOOD job on keeping this plant grow.  Here is the information on the care of the Thanksgiving, Christmas or Easter Cactus.  Stay safe everyone.
     CARING FOR YOUR HOLIDAY CACTUS
The holiday cactus is not your typical cactus. We are all familiar with the desert cactus but the holiday plant is a forest cactus—an epiphyte that lives in decomposing leaf litter found in the forks and on the branches of trees in tropical rain forests of South America.
 
The conditions in our houses are nothing like their native rain forest homes but still they do fine in normal household temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees, with a drop at night to 55 to 60 degrees. They will need protection when temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep under a shade tree or patio. Not in full sun.
They like their forest floor so give these cacti acidic well drained soils. Use a cactus mix and add perlite, vermiculite and orchid bark. They’re not cold tolerant.
They like bright light but not direct sun; an east or west window is perfect. If the leaves turn yellow it means they are getting too much light.
Let the plants dry out between waterings by watering them when the top 2 inches of the soil feels dry. Do not over water; this is the number one reason for their demise in our homes. Neglect is better than over watering. You could get a hydrometer to help Don’t let them sit in water because if they get too waterlogged they will rot.
Misting them frequently helps increase humidity.
Optional: Fertilize them with a, all purpose fertilizer such as a Miracle Grow Tomato water soluble fertilizer (1 tablespoon to a gallon of non-chlorinated water). Feed 2 times a month.
Like all the plants we have there, it gets no special care otherwise. Luckily for us it thrives on neglect and cool temperatures.
HOW TO KEEP HOLIDAY CACTUS BLOOMING
The keys to getting your holiday cactus to blossom are short days and cool nights. They need 13 hours of darkness and nights at 50 to 55 degrees for at least 1 to 2 months before they will set buds. I put some of my plants outside all summer and wait until the nights start to drop below 50 degrees before bringing them in for the fall and winter. They usually bud right up and start to bloom after that. The plants that grow in my kitchen get no special treatment and they blossom just as well. Go figure!
The plants flower best when slightly potbound so only repot them if they are really crowded. Unlike many holiday plants they are non-toxic to cats and dogs so don’t be afraid to bring one home for the holidays!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/christmas-cactus-thanksgiving-cactus-and-easter-cactus
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365