Question: A division of time and a girl’s name.
(Use these clues to find the two words that, when combined, form the name of a flower.)
We are open and moving plants outside.  We need more room inside the greenhouse for planting more for you.  Once I have the plants outside then the hardening off process starts.  If you get them out of the greenhouse, please keep them outside or in the garage to hardened off so they can take right off when you do plant them.   Stay safe.
How to Successfully Harden Off Indoor-Sown Plants
“Hardening off” is the process of gradually acclimatizing indoor-sown plants to outdoor conditions.
For most plants, begin hardening off a week before the final frost date for your area. Our Garden Planner uses data from your closest weather station to recommend when it’s safe to plant out, providing a helpful guide to work back from.
Choose a sheltered spot to harden off your plants. An unheated greenhouse or cold frame is a great tool for this, or you can cluster pots into buckets, crates or boxes to keep the wind off. Don’t place pots directly on the ground where they can easily be knocked over by birds or attacked by slugs.
Begin hardening off on a still, cloudy day when temperatures are fairly steady. Water plants before they go outside. Place them into your sheltered spot for just two hours on the first day. The next day, leave them out for two more hours, with perhaps an hour’s direct sunshine in the morning. Gradually increase the length of outdoor time and direct sunshine over one to two weeks. You can then leave them out overnight if there’s no danger of frost.
In cold winter regions, plants – particularly tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers – will need to be prepared for the cooler nights early in the growing season. Towards the end of the hardening off period, cover your crops with fleece or row covers to protect them overnight. Once crops have been planted into their final positions, be alert for unexpected cold snaps and cover tender crops if necessary.
It’s a good idea to grow a few more plants than you need so you can hold some back just in case. Bought-in plants may also need hardening off, particularly if they have been kept in sheltered conditions.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/how-harden-plants
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
​
Answer: Answer: Daylily

image from www.helping.com 

     Question: Why are two pints of strawberries after they are eaten like persons singing?
 
Weather is something else we can talk about and nothing we can do about it.  Today's weather is a little rain, but not much at all.  Do you think we will be looking for rain all season long?    Temperature at 11:15 AM is 50 degrees. High today of 69 with a low tonight of 51.  Looks like the rain is out of here.  Sun is trying to come out from under the clouds.  We could use an all day rain, but doesn't look like it this week.  Maybe next week???   Stay safe.
I am reposting this article about vegetables in the shade....give it a try.
Vegetables to Grow in Shade
 Not all of us are blessed with a sunny gardening space! See a list of vegetables (and fruit) that will grow in partial shade, vegetables that will NOT grow in shade, and tips to make the most of the light available in your garden. Plus, see three examples of garden designs for a partial-shade vegetable garden.
 Although fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash need at least 6 hours of full sun daily to give you a good harvest, most crops can “get by” with part sun or part shade (3 to 6 hours of direct sunlight).
Assessing Your Garden’s Light Levels
Before you even think about what to plant, make note of just how much sun your site actually receives; you might be surprised! There are different levels of shade and it will often change with the seasons. Here are the common terms associated with light levels in the garden:
•Full sun is considered to be 6–8 hours (or more) of direct sunlight per day. Peak sunlight hours are between 10 am and 2 pm.
•Partial shade (aka partial sun) is 3–6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
•Full shade is less than 3 hours of sun and dappled light for the rest of the day.
•Light shade or dappled shade is bright sun filtered through the leaves of trees overhead.
•Deep shade gets no sun at all. You won’t be growing any vegetables here.
Once you have figured out how much sun you have to work with, you can get planning! Morning sun with afternoon shade is the best situation for many plants whether they are vegetables, annual flowers or perennials.
Which Types of Vegetables Do Well in Shade?
•Cole crops are tolerant of partial shade. Broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, turnips, kale, and rutabagas will grow well with less than a full day of sun, but may take longer to mature. Cabbage will also grow in shade, but they may not form tight heads.
•Root crops such as radishes, carrots, potatoes, and beets can grow in as little as 3-4 hours of direct sun with light or dappled shade for the rest of the day.
•Leafy greens such as lettuce, arugula, kale, bok choy, and chard are happy with just a few hours of sunshine each day. In fact, keeping them out of midday sun can prevent their tender leaves from wilting.
•Climbing vegetables do well in areas that are shaded in the morning but sunny by afternoon. Cucumbers and pole beans will clamber up supports into the sunshine.
•Perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, asparagus, and Jerusalem artichokes can be grown in partial shade.
•Vegetables that are susceptible to bolting, like broccoli, cauliflower, and spinach, can benefit from being grown in partial shade, particularly in hotter climates.
•For areas that receive morning sun then afternoon shade, try vegetables such as celery, carrots, and bush beans.
Vegetable Growing Guides for Shade
Here is the list of our Growing Guides for shade-tolerant vegetables and herbs:
•Arugula
•Beans
•Beets
•Broccoli
•Cabbage
•Carrots
•Cauliflower
•Chard
•Cilantro
•Garlic
•Kale
•Kohlrabi
•Lettuce
•Parsley
•Parsnips
•Potatoes
•Radishes
•Rutabagas
•Spinach
•Turnips
Fruit to Grow in Shade
•Sour (acid) cherries actually fare better in shady plots, as they don’t need the sun to sweeten them. Plus, they look very pretty when trained on a north-facing wall.
•Currants and gooseberries also grow and crop quite well in partial shade. Train them as cordons or as fans against a wall to ensure the branches are well spaced and that light can reach all parts of the plant.
•Cane fruits such as blackberries and raspberries can also cope with some shade, but will fruit better in more sun.
•Rhubarb is another great crop for a shady spot.
•In terms of fruit trees, pears and plums are your best bet. Pears do need a few hours of sun, preferably in the afternoon. Plums are a great choice for a landscape that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Just remember, many varieties of pear and plum trees need a cross-pollinator to fruit, so you may need more than one tree.
•Wondering about strawberries? Alpine strawberries are much tougher than normal strawberries. Try a variety called ‘Alexandria’ for shade.
What NOT to Grow in Shade
Heat-loving crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash, and melons simply won’t grow without full sun. They need hot, sunny days in order to produce bountiful fruit.
Most fruit trees need LOTS of sun. Citrus, peach, nectarine, apple, and apricot trees all need direct sun and won’t thrive in shade.
6 Tips for Growing in Shade
1.In all but the hottest climates, use the sunniest parts of the garden to start seeds in a seedbed or in pots or modules, then transplant them to another bed once they are larger and more able to cope with shade. Using grow lights indoors can give early-sown seedlings a boost.
2.Reflect any available light into shadier parts of the garden by painting walls and fences white, or use mirrors and other reflective surfaces such as shiny metal or foil.
3.Shadier corners are slower to warm up in spring and quicker to cool down in fall, so use cold frames or row covers to warm up the soil earlier and extend the growing season later on.
4.Slugs and snails often lurk in shady areas, so use beer traps and delay laying mulches until the weather warms up.
5.Leave plenty of space between plants to help maximize light penetration.
6.You may not need to water as often when gardening in the shade, since less moisture evaporates. Do take care when gardening directly under trees, however. Their roots tend to compete for available water and nutrients and their leafy canopy will block some rainfall from reaching the ground.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/vegetables-grow-shade
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365
​
Answer: They are a quart-et (eaten).

image from almanac.com

      Question: Why is a dog dressed more warmly in summer than he is in winter?
With their colorful centers ringed with a crown of petals, sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) may be the happiest flowers in the garden. They are guaranteed to brighten up even the gloomiest of days, whether planted in a long row along a fence or massed in a sunny border.
If you have space in the yard—and in particular,
 a spot that gets lots of sunshine—you can grow a sunflower tower that has a small inside room! You can eat the sunflowers kernels, too! They are actually really healthy. 
 How to Plant a Sunflower House
Sunflowers are so easy to grow! Just plant sunflowers when the temperatures get warm—in the springtime or early summer!
It takes between 7 and 12 weeks for your sunflowers to grow up nice and tall.
DirectionsAll you need are sunflower seeds! Pick a packet or two of sunflower seeds that will grow at least 6 feet tall.
You also good spot that’s flat and full sun (6-8 hours of direct sun a day) with normal, moist soil that drains well. 
Instructions

1. Mark off where you want the sunflower tower to be: Your sunflower house can be any size or shape you want it to be: circular, square, rectangle, even triangular. But make sure it is at least 8 feet across. Use sticks or string to mark the perimeter which makes up the “walls” of the house.
2. With a shovel, make a trench along the marked perimeter. Clear the weeds and grass in a 6- to 12-inch wide area along this perimeter line to form a planting bed. Dig down about a foot to loosen the soil. Leave an un-dug portion on the perimeter; this will be a doorway. Make sure that it’s wide enough to walk through (about 2-feet wide). 
Clear any weeds, grass, and rocks from inside the perimeter. You can always place flattened cardboard inside the marked area, and then cover the cardboard with mulch or seedless straw.
3. Plant the sunflower seeds 6 inches apart and 1 inch deep. For thick “walls,” plant two rows of seeds. Leaving about 1 foot between rows, plant the second row of seeds between the seeds in the first row. 
4. Water your seeds every day and keep the soil moist, especially when the seedlings are small and growing. The seeds should start to sprout in about a week, if the weather is warm. If you wish, fertilize the flower as they grow: you can use a blend of liquid kelp and fish emulsion.
5. Once the sunflowers have a few sets of leaves, gently place mulch around the plants to keep the weeds and grass from growing back and competing with your sunflowers.
6. Sunflowers usually reach their full height in about 
10 weeks. 


More ideas:

• For a roof, plant morning glory seeds among the sunflower seeds! As the plants grow, the morning glories will climb the sunflower stalks. When the sunflowers start to bud, 
tie string or twine to the sunflower stems and across the top. The morning glories will follow the string, creating a roof on the tower. 

• Plant corn as a companion plant, interspersed with the sunflowers. 
• Plant a carpet of white clover inside the house to create a soft “carpet.” 
• Sometimes it’s fun to “decorate” the sunflower house. Add a stone doorstep or perhaps a couple small chairs for a fairy tea. 

Once the seeds begin to ripen, you may want to harvest them to snack on yourself or for the birds.
taken from  https://www.almanac.com/plant-sunflower-house
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
​
Answer: Because in winter he wears a fur coat, and in summer he wears a fur coat and pants

      3 Question: Why does a person who is poorly lose his sense of touch?
Weather is keeping up one day snowing and then the next day warm and humid.  That would be today. 
Most vegetables are started from seed sown directly in the garden. This is often called “direct sowing” or “direct seeding.” In this article, we’ll talk about which vegetables are best planted as seed directly in the garden (versus planted as transplants). Plus, we will provide some tips and tricks for sowing seeds so that they survive and thrive.
 Starting Your Vegetable Garden
When it comes to growing vegetables at home, you have two options for getting your garden started: you can start vegetables from seed (indoors or outdoors in the garden) or purchase small starter plants (called “transplants”) from a local garden center. Many gardeners use a mix of these techniques in their vegetable gardens each year.
Which method is best? It depends. Many vegetables prefer being directly seeded into the ground and do not thrive as well if they’re transplanted or disturbed. In this article, we focus on vegetables which are planted as seed directly into the ground outdoors. See our separate articles about transplanting and starting seeds indoors for more information on those topics.
Of the vegetables that are planted as seed directly into the garden: Some are considered “cool-season” vegetables, which need a cool period to germinate, and others are “warm-season” vegetables, which need the soil to be warm enough to germinate and will not survive a frost. Here’s a helpful list:
Cool-Season Vegetables
“Cool-season” vegetables have seeds which will germinate in cool soil. They are often planted in the spring (to mature before the weather gets hot) and in the summer (to mature in the cool of autumn). Below is a list of those veggies which prefer to be seeded directly into the soil (not transplanted):
Very hardy (can be planted 4 to 6 weeks before average last frost date)
•Collards
•Endive
•Fava beans
•Kale
•Kohlrabi
•Leeks
•Lettuce
•Onions
•Peas
•Rutabagas
•Spinach
•Turnips
Hardy (can be planted 2 to 3 weeks before average last frost date)
•Beets
•Carrots
•Chard
•Mustard
•Parsnips
•Radishes
Warm-Season Vegetables
“Warm-season” veggies grow best in warm weather and seeds germinate only if the soil is warm enough. If planted too early, seed may rot in the ground. A late spring frost will kill them, as will the first autumn frost. Below is a list of those veggies which prefer to be seeded directly into the soil (not transplanted):
Tender (plant 0 to 2 weeks after frost; injured or killed by frost but tolerant of cold weather)  So for us we have had a killing frost on May 14, 15th.  Remember 2020 we had that killing frost. 
•Snap beans
•Dry beans
•New Zealand spinach
•Summer squash
•Sweet corn
Warm-loving (plant 2 to 4 weeks after frost; killed by frost immediately and not tolerant of cold weather)
Cucurbit seeds (which include cucumbers, muskmelons, watermelons, pumpkins, summer squash, winter squash, and gourds) require very warm soil to germinate, at least 60°F. Seeds may rot if the soil temperatures are under 60°F.  My note to you...plant after June 5 to get the soil warm, and the nights warm.  Even wait till June 15th which was advice from an old gardener that worked with me in the 80's.   
•Cucumbers
•Garbanzo beans
•Lima beans
•Melons
•Okra
•Pumpkins
•Soybeans
•Winter squash
•Yardlong Beans
Before Sowing Seeds
It goes without saying (but we’ll say it again), you can’t just scatter seeds on the ground and expect all plants to grow!  Similar to a human, plants need the right environment, nourishment, and water. Here are some things to keep in mind before sowing seeds:
1.Know Your Planting Dates. Before you even start planting, know when each vegetable should be planted. Consult our Planting Calendar for the best dates to plant, based on frost dates.
2.Have a Plan. Know where each vegetable will go. For example, consider which vegetables need shade and which vegetables are tall so they do not shade shorter plants. Also, plant so that you can reach the center of the row or bed easily enough to weed, water, and harvest. Provide permanent beds for perennial crops such as rhubarb, asparagus, and some herbs. Remember, you can plant cool-season crops in the same place as warm-season crops later in the season, based on the vegetable’s days to maturity (on the seed packet). Try our Garden Planner to plan your garden for success.
3.Prepare the Soil. Your seeds need rich, fertile soil to grow. Add organic matter in the spring and work it into the soil, digging down about 1 foot to loosen the soil. Alternatively, do as many gardeners do and add organic matter in the fall so that it needs little work in the spring. See our page on how to prepare the soil for planting.
4.Remove Weeds. Before you plant any seeds, the area MUST be weed-free! Otherwise, the weeds are competition for water and nutrients.
5.Apply Fertilizer. In the spring—shortly before planting—work fertilizer into the soil. A soil test will help determine soil deficiences. Learn more about how to apply fertilizers to your garden.
6.Use Quality Seed. Seeds do have a shelf life, and while you can often get away with using older seeds, just be prepared for lower germination rates. Use fresh seed from a reputable company for the best results. See our list of reputable seed soures. Also, if you save you own seeds, do not save seeds from hybrid plants. Most hybrid plants will not be “true” to their parent type, so you could end up with a completely different (and possibly disappointing) fruit or flower. See more about saving vegetable seeds.
7.Starting Indoors. For vegetables that grow slowly from seed, try starting seeds indoors several weeks before the planting dates. Vegetables that grow slowly from seed and are ideal to start indoors include: tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, and peppers. See our article on how to start seeds indoors.
8.Prepping Warm-Season Crops. Before planting warm-season crops, especially cucurbits, you can warm the soil with different techniques, such as forming a mound or hill and/or using black plastic. To form a hill, mound soil to make a low, broad hill about 8 to 10 inches high. Lay any black plastic on the soil surface as early as possible in the spring. Simply cut a hole in the plastic in the area where you want a plant to be located; the plastic will keep the soil warmer and suppress weeds around the plant. Learn more about warming the soil.
9.Protect Seedlings From Frost. If you plant in early spring, be prepared to insulate young seedlings from cold weather—from cloches to row covers. See how to protect seedlings.
How to Plant Seeds
 
Sowing seeds is pretty simple, but there are some tips and tricks to make it easier, including the following:
1.Sow at the proper depth. In general, plant seeds at a depth two times the seed’s diameter, no deeper. However, do refer to the seed packet for this information. Some seeds only need to be pressed into the soil surface, as they need more light to germinate. For seeds at two or three times the depth, poke individual holes for seeds or create a furrow. You can use a pencil to poke holes if you wish!
2.Pay attention to seed spacing. You can plant lettuce, radishes, carrots, and other small seeds densely, and then thin them to the correct spacing when the seedlings are small. In general plan to sow some extra seeds, since not all seeds may germinate.
3.Plant in defined rows if you are a beginner; don’t scatter widely. It’s easier to keep weeds down between rows and identfy seedlings from weedlings. (Weeds don’t usually grow in rows!) Often, rows are spaced about a foot apart, but refer to your seed packet for specifics. See our helpful page on vegetable seedling identification.
4.Firm the soil, once seeds are sown. This ensures good contact between seed and soil.
5.Water new seeds gently! Don’t turn the hose on full strength and blast them or you’ll wash those seeds away or cause them to drift together. Use a fine, gentle mist to moisten the soil or let the water hose slowly trickle around the area.
6.Prevent soil crusting. Weak seedlings (such as carrots) can struggle to break thrugh the soil surface if a hard crust forms. After covering seeds with soil, add a thin layer of fine mulch or compost to help prevent crusting. When you plant, you can also mix in seeds that germinate quickly (such as radishes), which will break through the crust and allow weaker seedings to grow.
7.“Hill” vining plants. When direct-sowing large vining plants such as squash, melon, and cucumber, consider planting them on a hill. Each hill should be spaced 4 to 8 feet apart. Plant 4 to 6 seeds in a circle in 5-inch intervals on each hill. Thin when seedlings have 2 or 3 leaves. Remove all but 2 to 3 large, healthy, well-spaced plants per hill. More than 3 plants per hill will lead to crowding, greater chance of disease, and lower yields.
8.Mark the spot where you planted your row of vegetables; it’s very easily to forget, especially when you are trying to differentiate between seedlings and weeds! Use a popsicle stick to label rows, or anything that works for you!
Caring for Seeds and Seedlings
Once seeds are sown, be sure to keep them cared for!
1.Keep soil moist until the seed germinates. Watering seeds is critical. Never let the soil get dry; seedlings do not have a good root system and will dry out within hours, especially if it’s windy outside. Use drip irrigation or put the hose at ground level and let the water gently soak the planting area. Learn more about when to water vegetables.
2.You’ll need to thin seedlings to the right spacing when they are a couple of inches high. Don’t be scared to thin! If you don’t, your plants won’t have space and nutrients to grow and will crowd together.
3.Protect seedlings. Some pests do love those tender seedlings, too. If you have critters or pests, there are a number of different techniques to protect your seedlings, including netting, row covers, and little plant collars. See how to stay ahead of garden pests.
4.Provide trellises and supports such as poles or cages. For example, cucumbers need vertical supports to produce straight (rather than curved or malformed) fruit. Any vining or sprawling plant such as melons or pole beans also need supports. Tomatoes also need supports or cages for their heavy fruit.
5.Pinch back leggy plants. Many vegetables—and especially herbs—benefit from being “pinched back” after they have grown 3 sets of true leaves. Pinching back simply involves pruning the top of the plant back to its next set of leaves. This will encourage more branches so that your plant does not get leggy and grows in a more compact way.
6.Continue to pamper your seedlings until they become established plants.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/direct-sowing-seeds-vegetable-garden
till next time this is Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa 641-794-3337  cell phone  641-903-9365  
​
Answer: Because he doesn’t feel well.
 

       What word in our language has all the vowels in alphabetical order?  I never knew this how about you?
 temperature at 10:30 AM isn't very warm.  43 degrees with a high today of only 55.  Cloudy most of the day with partly cloudy sky this afternoon,  See what that means?   Low tonight after the sky clears off is 33 degrees.    Looks like Sunday again will be cool at 56 degrees but next week we will have temperatures in the 70's and 60's.  That will be better.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 We are OPEN.  Saturday here till 6.  Sunday from 11-4.  I am pretty excited for you to see what we have grown for you the gardeners and still growing plants.  We are completely full in the greenhouse even with moving out 2 wagons of plants.  We will move more out next week, so we can continue to grow plants for you. 
 In the past  years, we have had always had a big OPEN HOUSE with a meal and all for you.  But with the Covid last year we didn't have one.  I have to tell you the truth it has saved my lots of work.  As I always cooked the food, helped with the set up and had volunteers serve it.  We would serve around 300 to 400 meals in the three days.  Sue from KLMJ said to me on the opening day how calm I was and I had to tell her it was because of no serving a meal and all that went with it.  This gave me time to really concentrate on growing the plants and having them ready for you.
I know it will be a little slower this weekend with the cooler weather as many gardeners come and get plants and go and plant them.  I think that is a great idea.  The perennials, trees and shrubs will be coming next week.  Roses will be in that order also.  It is an on going process of adding plants to the garden racks, and tables to meet all of your gardening needs.
 I will be here Monday thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 11-4.  Every day till the 4th of July which will be 75 days open in a row.  Glad to do it.
 I need to thank all that has helped with planting.  Lyle and Ann Chambers, Debbie Brunner I couldn't have done it without them.  Also thanks to Larry and to our grandson Dylan for putting in a side walk to the greenhouse.  With all the wheel tall carts we have it will be awesome to have the sidewalk for taking them outside.  What a great experience for both of them to do this together.  Corbin was excited to be able to walk on it.  MEMORIES from the greenhouse.
 I suppose I better get to work.  I am going to work with succulents today.  I will just get a good start on them as we have one wagon full plus more to go out on the second wagon.  Stay safe, stay warm. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337   cell 641-903-9365  
 
Answer: Facetiously

image from Wikimedia 

      ​Question: What is that which was tomorrow, and will be yesterday?
Another cold morning.  27 was our low this morning.  Frost on the vehicles.  Now at 8:00 AM only 30 degrees.  High today of 47 with a mix of sun and clouds.  Cold again tonight at 27 but looks like that will be it for the 10 days.  Farmers will be out in the field working on planting.  Spring is here.  Stay warm, stay safe.
       The Farmer’s Almanac says our last frost date for Mason City Iowa is May 6th.  BUT do you remember last you we had a severe freeze on May 14th.  Most of the 32 years of doing this, that date has been our last freeze.  So be thinking of that when you plant.  I will be open Friday April 23rd and we are working hard to have things ready for you.  Perennials and trees, shrubs will be here next week.  Always new things every week. 
WHAT ARE FROST DATES?
A frost date is the average date of the last light freeze in spring or the first light freeze in fall.
The classification of freeze temperatures is based on their effect on plants:
Light freeze: 29° to 32°F (1.7° to 0°C)—tender plants are killed.
Moderate freeze: 25° to 28°F (3.9° to -2.2°C)—widely destructive to most vegetation.
Severe freeze: 24°F (-4.4°C) and colder—heavy damage to most garden plants.
Note that frost dates are only an estimate based on historical climate data and are not set in stone. The probability of a frost occurring after the spring frost date or before the fall frost date is 30%, which means that there is still a chance of frost occurring before or after the given dates!
Frost is predicted when air temperatures reach 32°F (0°C), but because it is colder closer to the ground, a frost may occur even when air temperatures are just above freezing. Always keep an eye on your local weather forecast and plan to protect tender plants accordingly. Weather, topography, and microclimates may also cause considerable variations in the occurrence of frost in your garden.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
Answer: Today

     Question: The Land of Enchantment.
(Name the U.S. state!)
Here we go.  I am so sorry that we had a low this morning of 27 es, igh today only in the 40's.  Again tonight, and Wed night lows below 30. I know how all of you feel after the 70's the first part of April.  BUT this makes the averages for the month come out to what they are.  Soon the weather will warm up, soon you can plant and be in the garden. 

Opening up date is Friday April 23rd.  Open at 9-6.  Monday thru Saturday and Sunday 11-4.  I will be open for 75 days in a row till July 4th.  We are here to help with your gardening needs. 
We have strawberry plants in.  The asparagus roots came in this week.  Bulk seeds for your vegetable garden.  We have seed potatoes as in Kennebec, Yukon Gold, Norland, Red Pontanic.  White, red and purple onions sets.  All the first plants to put out in the garden are ready to go.  That would be cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower.  I don't have them outside yet to hardened off, so that is one thing I would suggest you do.  Keep them out side while the temperature is not freezing for them to harden off.  Then they will be ready to be planted in your garden.  If you plant them right from a warm greenhouse, they will wilt which I call the greenhouse wilt.

Gardening really all depends on the weather we have.  Here are some weather proverbs that science says they are true. 
​
Weather proverbs—the delightful, often rhyming, couplets and colorful statements that typically link a natural event with a meteorological condition—originated centuries ago when people watched the skies, oceans, plants, and animals for clues of what to expect weatherwise. Here’s why we, too, can rely on these age-old adages.
Proverb: A year of snow, crops will grow.
Why: A several-inch layer of snow contains more air than ice. Trapped between the interlocking snowflakes, the air serves to insulate the plants beneath it. When the snow melts, the water helps to keep the ground moist.
Proverb: If there is thunder in winter, it will snow 7 days later.
Why: According to Topper Shutt, chief meteorologist for WUSA-TV in Washington, D.C., this is true about 70 percent of the time, especially from the East Coast to the Plains. Thunder in winter is an anomaly often caused by a big dip and a big rise in the jet stream (a powerful wind current that acts like railroad tracks, guiding high and low pressure systems from west to east across North America and separating cold air in the north from warm air in the south). As cold air moves south, it replaces warm air and lifts it up, often causing thunderstorms. The cold air behind the front settles in. Depending on the strength of the front, it may hang around for many days. When the next weather system arrives several—if not exactly 7—days later, temperatures may still be cold enough to cause the moisture in the system to fall as snow.
Proverb: A ring around the Moon means rain will come real soon.
Why: A ring, or halo, around the Moon is caused when the light of the Moon refracts through ice crystals present in high-level clouds. Although these clouds do not produce precipitation, they often occur in advance of an approaching low-pressure system, which often brings precipitation in the form of rain or snow.
Go Figure
Weather clues are all around us. There are no real surprises, says Environment Canada’s David Phillips. Before a tornado, for example, the sky may turn green and the approaching wind might sound like a train at a distance.
Here are a few clues to making your own predictions:
Pay attention to winds and clouds.
These are the big predictors of changes in barometric pressure and resulting weather. For instance, the adage “No weather is ill, if the wind be still” indicates a high-pressure system, a broad area of descending air characterized by calm winds and little cloud formation.
Observe sheep, cats, and cows.
Their bodies are affected by changes in air pressure. When rain is on the way, old sheep turn their backs to the wind, cats sneeze, and cows lie down.
Wtch birds in flight.
Air pressure affects many birds. For example, swallows have sensitive ears; when the barometric pressure drops, they fly as close to the ground as possible, where air density is greatest. Generally, low-flying birds are signs of rain; high flyers indicate fair weather.
taken fromhttps://www.almanac.com/extra/facts-behind-weather-folklore
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

Answer: New Mexico

      Question: An adjective and a vegetable.  GOOD LUCK
(Use these clues to find the two words that, when combined, form the name of a flower.)
Temperature this morning at 8:00 AM is at 36 degrees.  The high is only going to be 46.  It is cloudy, some wind so it feels cold out.  NOW can I remind you that I said when the temperature was in the 70’s and it was 20 degrees above normal.  Sometime this month would be 20 degrees below normal.  That is what we are having now.  That makes for the average to come out.  SORRY…but it will warm up again.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
This is what we have been doing in the greenhouse since Feb.  PLANTING, organizing, growing for your garden needs.  We will be official open April 23rd Friday.  Almost one week away.  I just can’t believe that.  So much work to do yet and we will continue to work for you and grow plants.  As you can see annual plants, annual plants in packs, baskets, succulents, geraniums, vegetables. 
 
Opening weekend is next Friday April 23rd.  I will be open then everyday Monday thru Saturday 9-6 and Sunday 11-4.  We will be ready for you and your gardening needs.  Stop in and see us.  Look for future posts about what we have for you. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
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Answer: Answer: Sweet pea

image from getbusygardening.com 

      ​Question: What flowers can be found between the nose and chin?  I think we have had this one all ready.  But I still missed it. 
 
Temperature is cool this morning.  38 degrees at 10:30 only going to reach 47 degrees.  Tonight, a low of 35 still cool out.   Looks like that for the next 10 days.  April 23rd we will be official open.  That will be every day.  Monday thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 11-4.  Here we go…. Stay warm, stay safe.
 
I just ordered more bulk garden seeds.  With the order, I had several carrots, the representative said I will have the carrot capital of the State.  Just saying I will have lots of bulk vegetables seeds for you. So here is how to grow carrots.  They didn’t suggest it, but I have added radishes to the carrot row and seeds, so they come up early to mark where you planted the carrots.  Just an idea!!!
GROWING CARROTS
HOW TO PLANT, GROW, AND HARVEST CARROTS By The Editors
Garden-grown carrots are full of flavor and texture! They are a popular, long-lasting root vegetable that can be grown in many climates. Learn all about planting, growing, and harvesting carrots.
Carrots are easy to grow as long as they are planted in loose, sandy soil during the cooler periods of the growing season—spring and fall (carrots can tolerate frost). Depending on the variety and local growing conditions, carrots may take anywhere from 2 to 4 months to mature. Plant them in the spring and summer for a continuous harvest through fall!
THE IMPORTANCE OF GOOD SOIL
Proper soil preparation is extremely important for carrot growing! If the carrot roots can’t easily grow unobstructed, it can lead to stunted and misshapen crops.
Here’s what to do to prepare your garden soil:
Till down 12 inches and make sure there are no rocks, stones, or even soil clumps that could impede your carrots’ growth.
Avoid amending the soil with nitrogen-rich material such as manure and fertilizer, which can cause carrots to fork and grow little side roots. Instead, work in old coffee grounds.
If your ground soil is heavy clay or too rocky, you should consider planting carrots in a raised bed at least 12 inches deep and filled with airy, loamy soil (not clay nor silt).
Finally: Don’t expect to get perfectly straight “grocery store” carrots. Your carrots will still taste better, whatever their shape!
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT CARROTS
For a summer harvest, sow seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date. Find your local frost dates here.
To ensure a continuous harvest, plant a new round of seeds every 3 weeks through late spring.
For a fall harvest, sow seeds in mid- to late summer—starting about 10 weeks before your first fall frost.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE
Carrots need a location that receives full sunlight, though they can tolerate partial shade, too.
As discussed above, soil must be loose, sandy or loamy, and airy so that carrot roots can easily push down through the soil.
HOW TO PLANT CARROTS
We recommend sowing seeds directly in the garden (or wherever you plan to grow them) rather than transplanting. Carrots do not like to have their roots disturbed.
Sow ¼ inch deep, 2 to 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot apart.
Tip: Try to distribute seed in an even fashion so that seeds don’t grow together. Use a seed-sower or thin vigorously to the right spacing.
Keep the soil moist with frequent shallow waterings. For small carrot seeds to germinate, the soil mustn’t form a hard crust on top; cover with a layer of vermiculite or fine compost to prevent a crust from forming. (If you put your finger in the ground, it should be moist, but not wet, to the middle knuckle.)
Carrots are sometimes slow to germinate. They may take 2 to 3 weeks to show any sign of life, so don’t panic if your carrots don’t appear right away!
Tip: To help keep track of where they were planted, mix carrot seeds with quick-germinating radish seeds or sow radish seeds in rows between carrot rows. The radishes will grow quickly and by the time the carrots really start to grow, the radishes can be harvested.
CARE
HOW TO GROW CARROTS
Gently mulch carrots to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from hitting the roots directly.
When seedlings are an inch tall, thin so that they stand 3 to 4 inches apart. Snip tops with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the fragile roots of the remaining plants.
Water at least one inch (about ½ gallon per square foot) per week to start, then two inches as roots mature.
Weed diligently, but be careful not to disturb the young carrots’ roots while doing so.
Fertilize with a low-nitogen but high-potassium and -phosphate fertilizer 5 to 6 weeks after sowing. (Note that excess nitrogen in the soil promotes top, or foliage, growth—not roots.)
See more tips for growing carrots.
PESTS/DISEASES
Black (Itersonilia) canker
Carrot rust flies
Flea Beetles
Root-knot nematodes
Wireworms
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW AND WHEN TO HARVEST CARROTS
Generally, the smaller the carrot, the better the taste.
Harvest whenever desired maturity or size is reached. Carrots should be about as wide as your thumb or at least ½ of an inch in diameter.
If you’re growing carrots in the spring and early summer, harvest before daily temperatures get too hot, as the heat can cause carrot roots to grow fibrous.
Carrots taste much better after one or more frosts. (A frost encourages the plant to start storing energy—sugars—in its root for later use.) Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot tops with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
Note: Carrots are biennial. If you fail to harvest and leave the carrots in the ground, the tops will flower and produce seeds in the next year.
Carrots
Scrub off the dirt and remove the tops before storing carrots!
HOW DO YOU STORE FRESH CARROTS?
To store freshly-harvested carrots, twist or cut off all but ½ inch of the tops, scrub off any dirt under cold running water, and air-dry. Seal in airtight plastic bags, and refrigerate. If you simply put fresh carrots in the refrigerator, they’ll go limp in a few hours.
You may leave mature carrots in the soil for temporary storage if the ground will not freeze and pests aren’t a problem.
Carrots can also be stored in tubs of moist sand or dry sawdust in a cool, dry area.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Carrots come in a rainbow of colors, sizes, and shapes.
‘‘Bolero’: slightly tapered; 7 to 8 inches; resists most leaf pests and blights.
‘Danvers’: classic heirloom; 6 to 8 inches long, that tapers at the end and has a rich, dark orange color; suited to heavy soil.
‘Little Finger’: heirloom; a small Nantes type of carrot only 4 inches long and one inch thick; good for containers.
‘Nantes’: cylindrical (not tapered); 6 to 7 inches; exceptionally sweet; crisp texture.
‘Thumberline’: heirloom; round carrot, good for clumpy or clay soil and containers.
For unusual color, try heirloom ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ and bright ‘Solar Yellow’.
WIT & WISDOM
Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white, and some are resistant to diseases and pests.
Long-lasting carrots are rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Read more in Carrots: Health Benefits!
The Irish called carrots “underground honey,” due to this root vegetable’s sweetness.
Carrots were the first vegetable to be canned commercially.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/carrots
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
Answer: Tulips (two lips)

image from pinterest.com 

      To answer this question from yesterday.
To plant seeds potatoes do each one have to have a eye
YES each seed potato cutting needs at least one eye.  That is where the plant will grow. 
 
Another question from the blog.  When can I plant this. I HAVE A POTTED. Plant It is April 11th . Will frost kill this new red birds in a tree.. It has very tender growth! Will a freeze kill it..
Yes it will very tender so bring inside if it is to get frost. 
 
Question: Why is coffee like an ax with a dull edge?
 
GROWING RHUBARB
PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING RHUBAR  By The Editors
Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable famous for its tart-flavored pinkish-green stalks, though it’s used as a sweetened fruit in pies, tarts, and jams. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest your own rhubarb!
ABOUT RHUBARB
Rhubarb originally stems from Asia, but was brought to Europe in the 1600s and America not long thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens. Rhubarb is easy to grow, but needs dormancy period to really thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks.
The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic—they contain an irritant called oxalic acid—so be sure that they are not ingested.
What’s wonderful about rhubarb is that it will produce for many years—five or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own bed in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed.
It grows well in soil enriched with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost, so some gardeners will even plant it near their compost bin!
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT RHUBARB
Plant one-year-old rhubarb crowns in early spring as soon as the ground is workable, when the roots are still dormant and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out).
Rhubarb can also be planted in the fall after dormancy has set in.
Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended. It takes several years for rhubarb to be mature enough to produce a good harvest.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING THE PLANTING SITE
Rhubarb grows best in full sun, but will tolerate partial sun.
Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet.
Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Soil pH is not critical, though rhubarb will grow best in a slightly acidic to neutral range (6.0–7.0).
Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2-3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded.
Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF in the winter and below 75ºF in the summer.
Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
HOW TO PLANT RHUBARB
Dig large, bushel basket-size holes.
Space rhubarb plants about 4 feet apart and plant the roots 1 to 3 inches below the surface of the soil, with buds facing up.
Water well at the time of planting.
CARE
HOW TO GROW RHUBARB
Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry days of summer.
Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only sap energy from the plant that could otherwise be used for producing stalks or roots.
Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
Overcrowding is common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them.
In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of an organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but they may be affected by:
Crown rot
Rhubarb curculio (a beetle)
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW TO HARVEST RHUBARB
Do not harvest any stalks during the first growing season, and harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.
Usually after 3 years, the harvest period runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; this means the plant’s food reserves are low.
Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
Always leave at least 2 stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for up to 20 years without having to replace your rhubarb plants.
It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant becomes toxic as temperatures warm in the summer. This isn’t true, though summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after mid-summer, it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.
 RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
‘Canada Red’
‘Cherry Red’
‘Crimson Red’
‘MacDonald’
‘Valentine’
‘Victoria’
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/rhubarb
 
Answer: It must be ground before being used.
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Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365