December 3, 2025

July 2025  

​IT is darn cold out.  But there is little wind, and full clear blue sky so the sun is out.  Dress warm is all I can say.  It is still -4C(-20C).  Australia’s this is hard for you to realize how cold it is unless you have been here to experience it.  When we got up this morning it was at -14F( can I even find that in C.-28C)  You just dress for it.  Dress in layers and lots of it.  Make sure most of the skin is covered so you don’t get frost bite.  High today of 14F(-10C).  All I can say is stay warm, stay safe.

We got the plastic wall up in the south end of the greenhouse.  Those are the pictures you see.  That plastic is hanging on the 3rd hoop, so it makes a barrier for the cold air.  For example, when I went out there this morning it was 27F in that area, and in the area, we have enclosed with a north wall of plastic which is ½ of the greenhouse it was a cozy 60 degrees.  The sun is shining so that it really helps warm it up. 

I had to include a picture of the south end of the greenhouse outside in July.  I am looking through pictures and do enjoy seeing all the colors.  We will have this again, but now it is time for nature to rest and give us winter. 
 
Australia family and friends for their summer weather on Friday Dec 5 will have 72F(22C) with 85% humidity so they are having summer like weather.  Stay cool, stay safe. 
 
I had a friend  say to me it is only 7:00 PM and it is so dark out.  Yes, it is getting dark so much earlier and it isn’t the winter solstice.  Here is why. 
​
Why the Earliest Sunset of the Year is NOT on the Solstice  Written By: Bob Berman
Does it feel darker this time of year? Many folks think it’s darkest on the winter solstice. But it’s actually in early December! Bob Berman explains this phenomenon.  To most of us in North America, this is a dark time of year—and you’re right. The sunsets come exceedingly early. It might surprise you to learn that the earliest sunsets come several weeks before the winter solstice, not on the solstice, as many would guess.
This puzzles people, but it’s actually a reliable yearly sequence.
First comes the earliest sunset, in early December.  Then there’s the winter solstice half a month later—on December 21 in the Northern Hemisphere—the day with the fewest minutes of daylight.  Finally, another 2 weeks later, in early January, we get our murkiest morning—the latest sunrise.
In early December, North America slam-bangs at the low point of afternoon sunshine. And since far more people are awake and aware of things at 4:30 PM than they are at 6 in the morning, in a very real sense, you can forget about the solstice and the official “shortest day of the year” in terms of daylight.
So far as what most folks actually experience, early December is the darkest time of the year.   For example, in Boston, the Sun started setting at 4:13 PM on December 3 and won’t start setting later, at 4:14 PM, until December 15.
Of course, the degree of darkness varies, depending on how far north you live. The time the clock reads at sunset also depends on how far east or west your home sits relative to your standard time zone.
For northern latitudes, the earliest sunsets of the year happen around December 7. Think about 40 degrees latitude, so New York City, Philadelphia, Kansas City, Denver, and Reno.  If you live in the southernmost U.S., or a comparable latitude (about 25 or 26 degrees N. latitude), your earliest sunsets are actually in late November.  Drive just an hour east from where you are right now, and the Sun sets 10 minutes earlier. That’s because going east around the Earth’s curve makes your western horizon rise up to block the Sun sooner.  Go a mere 35 miles east, and the sun sets 5 minutes earlier.  In my region, which is the rural Northeastern US, the very earliest sunsets happen for those who indeed live both north AND east—namely, along the upper coast of Maine.
Test this out yourself! See when your sun starts setting. Try putting in 2 days ago, and then today, and 1 week from now!
Simply put, it all reflects the reality that tropical sunsets hardly vary throughout the year, while polar sunsets change wildly through the seasons. If you lived smack on the equator, like in Quito, Ecuador, your minutes of daylight would never budge throughout the year, not even by one second.
By contrast, our northern friends in Canada and Alaska experience the most radically short days in December.  But wherever you live, before the winter solstice starts, the afternoons will start getting brighter!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/when-darkest-time-year
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from ehouseplants.com 

​

I have been out and fed the cats, and it is cold out.  We still have clouds so it makes it feel colder.  I don’t think the sun is coming out for a few days, so here we go.  I can’t believe Thursday morning it will be below zero with wind chill near -15.  That is beyond cold.  Today’s high is 22F(-5C).  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Now Australia family and friends with their start of summer will have a different story.  Wed Dec 3rd they will have a high of 82F(28C) with a touch of more humidity.  I see the 102F has been pulled off the temperature this week, so that is good.  Mostly clear for them.  Stay cool, stay safe.

I have noticed I have lots of these succulents growing.  They are in the greenhouse so I will move them more to the center of the greenhouse so they can stay a little warmer.  I can’t believe how they grow, and believe me they are easy to grow.  Especially the part during the winter water every 2 to 4 weeks.  Do you have some in your succulent plants? 
​
complete Guide to Growing and Caring for Echeveria Succulents  Plants  Written By: Lauren Landers
If you need proof that tough plants can be total softies, look no further than echeveria. These hardy succulents are undaunted by heat, drought, and even cool weather, but they’re so easy to keep that beginners can master them—and they come in lots of fun colors too. I’ve kept a number of echeveria indoors and outdoors over the years, and here are all the tips I’ve used for succulent growing succ-ess!
Echeveria are sometimes called “hen and chicks,” but they should not be confused with true hen and chicks or Sempervivum—an entirely different, but related, plant. Like Sempervivum, echeveria belongs to the Crassulaceae family and features plump, colorful leaves that grow in tight rosettes and often reproduce via offsets. However, echeveria aren’t quite as cold-tolerant as Sempervivum, and they’re native to central and south America, while Sempervivum hail from Europe and Africa.
Currently, there are about 150 recognized species of echeveria, as well as thousands of unique cultivars with different leaf and flower colors, bloom times, and more. But despite all that diversity, most echeveria are relatively slow-growing plants that only reach 2 to 12 inches tall and spread just about as wide. Most types of echeveria share similar care needs and thrive in well-draining locations with ample sunlight and minimal watering.
If you live in an area with mild winters, you may be able to keep echeveria outdoors year-round in pots, rock gardens, or xeriscapes. But as I live in New England, I only grow echeveria inside as a houseplant, and find it to be a very easy to keep one! These plants excel exceptionally well in terracotta pots, but I also enjoy mixing them into dish gardens with other succulents that have similar care needs, such as kalanchoe and sedum.
Planting
Although echeveria can be grown from seed, it’s much easier and faster to grow them from nursery-started plants!
Choose the right location: Outdoor echeveria should be planted in full-sun locations with well-draining soil, while indoor plants require well-draining pots that are at least 4 inches wide.
Use succulent potting mix: If you’re growing echeveria in containers, select a potting mix that’s specially designed for succulents and cacti. You can also create your own potting mix by blending equal parts of growing medium, sand, and perlite.
Plant at the correct depth: Echeveria should be planted at the same depth they were growing in their nursery pots. These plants can be spaced relatively close together in dish gardens, but tight spacing can increase the risk of plant competition.
Withhold water: Waiting a week to water newly planted echeveria can reduce the risk of rot. When you do water, do so sparingly!
Growing
Echeveria makes excellent plants for xeriscape gardens that are designed for drought resistance. If you live in an area where echeveria can grow perennially, try pairing these plants with pricky pear, hen and chicks, and other xeriscape plants with similar care needs. Then, apply a pebble or gravel mulch around your plantings to keep weeds down. I find that these mulches are better for succulents as they don’t trap moisture against the plant’s stems and are less likely to cause succulents to rot.
Water
The most common issue that occurs with echeveria is overwatering. To avoid this, water these plants sparingly and keep them in well-draining pots with succulent or cactus potting mix. Indoor plants should be watered deeply about once every 2 to 4 weeks until the water trickles out of the drainage holes in the plant’s pot. Then, dump any excess water out of the plant's saucer to ensure its roots don’t stay too damp.
Light
As with most succulents, echeverias are full-sun plants that need a minimum of 6 hours of bright light per day. South- or west-facing windows tend to be best for these plants, while those that appear leggy or stretched out require more light.
Humidity
Low humidity is no problem for echeveria, but highly humid conditions may increase the risk of rot. That’s why these plants aren’t great fits for bathrooms and other steamy areas!
Temperature
Echeveria can grow outdoors perennially in locations that don’t experience frost and that stay above 45°F year-round. If you live in a cooler climate, you can keep echeveria outdoors in summer, but plants should be moved back inside before cold weather sets in. Indoors, echeveria should be kept away from drafts and cold windows, which can potentially damage their leaves.
Fertilizer
Although echeveria generally don’t need fertilizer, you can feed these plants lightly in spring and summer if they look like they need it. Just use a liquid organic fertilizer diluted to ¼ strength and keep the fertilizer off the plant’s leaves to avoid fertilizer burn.
Toxicity
If you have pets in your home, you’re in luck. Echeveria are nontoxic and          purr-fectly safe for cats and dogs!
Echeveria come in an astounding array of colors, which usually get more vivid when the plants receive more light. You can find these plants in blues, greens, yellows, reds, pinks, purples, grays, and near black. Some have wooly leaves for even more excitement!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/complete-guide-growing-and-caring-echeveria-succulents
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

​The Noisy Miner is a bird native to Australia which decided to come for a feed as I was admiring the flowers on the New Zealand Mountain flax.

​The Friends were working in and around the tennis courts and the Garden For Life last Thursday. Lots of trimming done.
Thank you Dawn for sharing these photos.

WOW I am finally getting to this behind because I like to write in the morning, and it it is 3:30 PM all ready.  The morning just flew by and not getting much done.  You have all had days like that I know.  Must be the snowstorm, we are still cleaning up.  We had a good 10” and it is cold so it will be here for a while.  Snow always makes work, and it seems early to have this work starts soon.  It is going to be cold, and wind chills in effect.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends Dec 1st marks their first day of summer.  One of them wrote and said it has been the coldest start of summer.  But I noticed this week they will have 102F(39C).  They have also been having lots of rain, and thunderstorms.  So, their gardens and lawns are nice and green.  You will see it in some of the pictures that I have posted from the Sale Botanic Gardens, Sale, Victoria Australia.  
When Evelyn has been back, and she has come to help in the greenhouse one question she asked was “Where was my hat?”  You will notice that many of the gardeners wear hats.  They have high exposure to the sun and skin cancer is a concern.  I have started to wear the garden hat when I am working in the greenhouse.  I think of Ev and the Australia’s when I wear hats. Stay cool, stay safe. 
You can think of them working in the gardens, mowing lawns while we are here moving that white stuff.    
  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

We went from this to this 

To our first snow fall.  

 At least 6" of snow.... 

image from Old Farmer's Almanac 

       ​It looks like a haven’t written for a few days.  You can see in the pictures that we have had a major snowstorm.  I need to ask Larry how much we got.  Yesterday afternoon he thought we had 5 to 6 inches, but it snowed till midnight.  I will let you know.  We didn’t have church today because of all the snow.  The wind came up after midnight, so the snow moved again.  Like many, Larry is cleaning up the snow.  Winter is here with the temperatures for the next 7 days below normal.  One night we will have -7F(-21C) Most days it will reach 20F(-7C).  Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
Australia family and friends have been having lots of rain.  Today, Monday Dec 1 they will still have rain, and the high will be 61F(16C) In their 10 days forecast I see 102F(39C).  So summer is going to start for them.  Stay dry, stay cool, stay safe.
 
I found this graphic, and I think it says it all.  I wonder if it is correct.  I am listening to Christmas songs, now that Thanksgiving is over with.  Most of them are on vinyl.  My mom would get one every year at the local hardware store.  So that makes them over 50 years old. Stay safe all.  Hope travel is better soon. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image of underwatering houseplant from ar.inspiredpencil.com 

image of overwatering houseplant, from grow-gang.com 

Good morning, another cloudy, overcast day with rain.  Temperature is still mild today of 50F(10C) and a low of 25f(-4C).  But this is only the beginning of 10 days below normal temperatures.  Giving us a taste of winter in early December.  We will have high winds that will add to the winter like feeling.  Stay warm, stay dry, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Wed Nov 26 will have partly cloudy conditions and wind gusts up to 7 mph but 65% rain and a high of 68F(20C) Now we are having a big difference in our weather.  Stay dry, stay safe.

I need to follow this because this is what I have a hard time with houseplants in the house.  Watering.  I can do it fine in the greenhouse but in the house, there is always something else to do than water the plants.  I have several trays of plants I need a certain time to make sure they are done for sure.  How about you?  How are your houseplants?  It makes for having some green in our homes when the outside is getting to be more winter like. 
​
How to Water Houseplants the Right Way: Signs of Overwatering & Underwatering
Watering houseplants seems simple—until your peace lily starts sulking or your pothos looks parched. The truth is, watering is both an art and a science. Too much, and you’re basically giving your plants soggy feet. Too little, and they’ll give you the cold (and crispy) shoulder. Here’s how to strike the perfect balance and keep your leafy roommates lush, hydrated, and happy.
If you do an online search for “the number one reason why houseplants die,” you’ll see that just about every top result points to a single culprit: overwatering. If you’re blushing with recognition right about now, you’re not alone.
First, let’s talk about why houseplants need water in the first place.
Photosynthesis, the process by which plants make their food from the sun’s energy, requires both water and air to create the glucose that provides energy to the plant.  Water helps transport the nutrients and sugars produced by photosynthesis, as well as nutrients from the soil, to every part of the plant.Water evaporates through the leaves (in a process called transpiration) to help keep the plant cool. Plants are up to 95 percent water, and that water is key to strong, healthy cell structure. So, all of this may leave you thinking, since water is so important, more is better, right? Not quite.
Too much water can prevent oxygen from moving through the soil to reach the plant. If that happens, roots may begin to rot and, ironically, can no longer deliver the moisture the plant so desperately needs.
Eventually, the roots will die—and the plant along with it.
Of course, there’s also such a thing as underwatering (also called, let’s face it, forgetting to water). Without moisture, all the important processes mentioned above can’t happen. The result? The plant stops growing, the leaves turn dry and brown, the stem becomes brittle, and the plant will eventually die.
Houseplants can be especially susceptible to underwatering in the summer when they’re growing faster, there’s more light, and the surrounding temperature is higher—all of which translates into water disappearing more quickly from the soil through use and evaporation.
Signs of overwatering include droopy and/or yellowing leaves, leaves (even young ones) that fall off, mushy-feeling stems near the base of the plants, and soggy soil.
Signs of underwatering include leaves that droop (but perk up after watering), turn brown, begin to curl, and/or even get a bit crispy. You may also notice a gap between the dry soil and the inside of the pot.
Lots of people water their indoor plants every week on the same day, but while that may make it easier to remember, it’s not the best approach for your plants.
See, your houseplants don’t all use water at the same rate. Some may be thirstier than others, depending on the size of both the plant and pot, the amount of sun it gets, whether or not it’s actively growing, how hot and dry the room is, etc. That being said, it’s fine to choose one day a week as the check-in-on-your-plants day to see if they need watering!
Fortunately, the best way to ensure your houseplants get the right amount of water is the same.
Every few days, stick your finger into the soil. Generally, if the top inch of potting mix (2 inches for succulents) is dry, it’s time to water. You can also lift the pot to feel how heavy it is–if it feels oddly light, it’s time to water.
Using room-temperature water (not too cold!), water the soil evenly around the base of the plant until water begins to run out of the drainage holes in the pot—make sure you have a saucer underneath. (If there are no drainage holes, water until the soil is well moistened, then switch to a pot with holes the next time you repot in containers.)
It’s fine to use tap water, but if you live in an area with heavily chlorinated water, let it sit out uncovered overnight before using it to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Better yet, use water from your rain barrel.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water my houseplants?
It depends on the plant type, pot size, and environment. Most houseplants need watering every 7–10 days, but always check the soil first. If the top inch of soil feels dry, it’s time to water. For succulents, wait until the top 2 inches are dry.
How do I know if I’m overwatering my plants?
Signs of overwatering include yellowing or droopy leaves, soggy soil, mold growth, and mushy stems. If your pot doesn’t have drainage holes, overwatering can happen easily—switch to one that does.
What does underwatering look like?
Underwatered plants have dry, curling, or crispy leaves that may droop but perk up after watering. You might also see soil pulling away from the edges of the pot.
Is tap water safe for houseplants?
Yes—most houseplants tolerate tap water just fine. However, if your water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit out overnight before watering so the chlorine can evaporate. Rainwater or filtered water is even better.
Should I mist my indoor plants?
Misting can help raise humidity, especially for tropical plants like ferns or calatheas. Just avoid misting succulents or fuzzy-leaved plants, which can develop rot.
What’s the best time of day to water houseplants?
Morning is ideal. It gives plants time to absorb moisture before the day’s warmth increases evaporation. Plus, any excess water on leaves will dry before night, helping prevent disease.
Can overwatered plants recover?
Yes—if caught early. Remove the plant from soggy soil, trim away any rotted roots, and replant in fresh, well-draining potting mix. Then, water sparingly until it bounces back.
See? It’s a pretty straightforward path to keeping your houseplants happily hydrated. Now, what about keeping your green friends nourished with food?
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-and-when-water-houseplants
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from unsplash.com 

      ​Good Monday morning.  We have clouds and fog.  The prediction is to have rain, and I think we will get some today and tonight.  It will be warm at 50F(10C) so no snow.  But it will be damp.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends For Tuesday Nov 25 will be at 77F(25C) but they too are to have rain at 35%. One of the friends wrote it is almost getting humid out for them with the heat and the rain.  They have been having rain, so everything is looking green and growing.  I will post this week more pictures of the Botanic gardens and let you see what their spring is like.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
In our Thanksgiving church message, Pastor said that Pres. Lincoln during the Civil War made this a national holiday. Somehow, I missed that in the history lessons I had.  This morning, I found this article about how it all happened thanks to a lady named Sarah.  Interesting read.
 
Sarah Josepha Hale: The Godmother of Thanksgiving Written By:  Catherine Boeckmann
Sarah Josepha Hale can be thanked for founding Thanksgiving!
This Thanksgiving, take a little time to remember Sarah Josepha Hale, the woman who helped make this National Day of Thanks possible.
Who Was Sarah Josepha Hale?
Sarah Josepha Buell was born on October 24, 1788, on a farm in Newport, New Hampshire. From a tender age, she was curious, smart, and eager to learn.
As a young girl, Sarah was taught by her mother about history and literature. Later, her brother Horatio taught her everything that he was learning as a student at Dartmouth College.
When Sarah was growing up, women were not accepted as teachers. However, this didn’t stop Sarah from founding a private school when she was 18 years old. She taught until she met David Hale. They married in 1813.
David encouraged Sarah to write short stories and articles. Many of these were published in local newspapers.
Suddenly, in 1822, David died, and Sarah Hale was left to care for their five children. To make ends meet, she first operated a women’s hat shop and later resumed teaching and writing. Soon, she published her first book of poems, including one that became the famous nursery rhyme “Mary Had a Little Lamb.” In 1827, she published her first novel.
John Blake of Boston read Hale’s novel and asked her to work for him on Ladies’ Magazine. She accepted and became the first woman editor of a magazine in the United States. Hale introduced new ideas and a new title, calling it American Ladies’ Magazine.
Within a few years, Louis Godey of Philadelphia had bought Blake’s magazine and merged it with Godey’s Lady’s Book, keeping Hale as editor.
How Did Sarah Josepha Hale Start Thanksgiving?
Throughout her time as an editor, Hale had written hundreds of letters to governors, ministers, newspaper editors, and every U.S. president with one request: that the last Thursday in November be set aside to “offer to God our tribute of joy and gratitude for the blessings of the year.”
Native American harvest festivals had taken place for centuries in North America, and there had long been colonists’ services to give thanks, but there had never been a Thanksgiving holiday.
In 1863, with the country torn by the Civil War, Hale’s campaign finally got people’s attention. That September, she put her Thanksgiving message into an editorial and wrote to President Abraham Lincoln, urging him to make Thanksgiving Day a fixed national festival.
Lincoln liked Hale’s idea. On October 3, 1863, he issued a proclamation declaring the last Thursday of November to be National Thanksgiving Day. He ordered all government offices in Washington to close on that day.
The Fourth Thursday in November
In 1939, store owners pressured President Franklin Roosevelt to move Thanksgiving Day to the third Thursday in November. They wanted more shopping days between Thanksgiving and Christmas. He did it, but millions of Americans continued to celebrate Thanksgiving Day on the last Thursday of November. In 1940, FDR realized his mistake. In December 1941, he assigned the holiday to the fourth Thursday in November.
Thanksgiving in Canada
Occasions for Thanksgiving in Canada have been observed for hundreds of years. Thanksgiving became a national holiday in 1879; its date each year was determined by proclamation. In 1957, Parliament set the second Monday in October as the fixed date “for general thanksgiving to Almighty God for the blessings with which the people of Canada have been favoured.
https://www.almanac.com/sarah-josepha-hale-godmother-thanksgiving?
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image form miorganics.com.au

End of the day for me.  Have you ever taken one step ahead and then 6 steps back.  That was my day.  One reason is that I am late in posting this.  I got things done but seems like I was going backwards with them.  Hopefully tomorrow will go better.  I am going to blame it on the cloudy sky we have had all week.  Finally the clouds went away and the sun was out.  Now the sky is clear and blue.  Tracking a great weekend with some rain on Monday.  High Saturday and Sunday will be 50F(10C) with partly cloudy skies.  Sunday it will be clear.  Enjoy, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Sunday Nov 23 ,100% rain but will be warm at 71F(21C).  I saw pictures from this last weekend.  Kids were in shorts, sun shining and it looked awesome spring weather for them.  Enjoy and stay safe.

When we were visiting Australia, I noticed at the garden center this mushroom mulch.  This spring a gardener was telling me she was  using it.  This is some information about it. 
​
What Is Mushroom Compost and How To Use It
Learn the dirt on this nutrient-rich mulch—when to use it, when to skip it, and how to help your plants thrive.
Written By:  Lauren Landers
This natural mulch is becoming increasingly popular for growing ornamentals and edible crops. Below, you’ll find a basic rundown of the pros and cons of using mushroom compost, tips for sourcing and applying it, and a list of plants that you should and shouldn’t grow in mushroom compost.
What is Mushroom Compost?
Also known as spent mushroom compost (SMC) or spent mushroom substrate (SMS), mushroom compost is a byproduct left over from the edible mushroom industry. But it doesn’t contain any mushrooms!
Instead, mushroom compost is actually the leftover substrate that’s used to grow mushrooms, and it’s usually made from aged chicken or horse manure and/or composted straw, which has been heat-treated, sterilized, and amended with added limestone and sphagnum moss to help mushrooms grow better. However, once large-scale mushroom harvests are completed, all that leftover substrate can go to waste if it’s not repurposed into mushroom compost.
Spent mushroom compost is typically sold in bags or in bulk at garden centers or from soil suppliers. Dark, rich, and earthy, mushroom compost looks a lot like standard compost, and it has a similar use. However, mushroom compost differs from standard compost in a few important ways that can affect how it’s used in the garden and the types of plants you apply it to.
How is Mushroom Compost Different?
If you’ve ever used compost or aged manure in your garden, you should have no problem working with mushroom compost. Mushroom compost has many similarities to both compost and livestock manure, but it has a few differences that make it totally unique too!
Mushroom Compost vs Regular Compost
Standard compost and mushroom compost have a similar look and feel, and they can both contain manure or composted plant material, like rotted straw. These two amendments are filled with nutrients that help plants grow better, and they can improve soil structure and drainage as well. However, mushroom compost has a higher salt content and an alkaline pH, which can be more useful for balancing acidic soil but less suitable for alkaline gardens and plants that aren’t salt-tolerant.
Mushroom Compost vs. Cow Manure
Like compost, cow manure also contains nutrients that plants need, and it can be used to improve soil structure. But fresh cow manure contains a high concentration of nitrogen that can burn plants if it’s not aged or composted before application. Mushroom compost generally does not need further composting, and it can be applied to gardens as-is. But mushroom compost contains less nitrogen than cow manure, which can make it more suitable for growing fruiting or flowering plants but less efficient at boosting the growth of leafy greens.
Mushroom Compost Benefits and Drawbacks
The major difference between mushroom compost and other soil conditioners is that mushroom growers mix limestone and a few other additives into mushroom substrates to improve the growth of mushrooms. This added limestone makes mushroom compost more alkaline and calcium-rich than standard compost, which can benefit certain plants. However, mushroom compost isn’t suitable for every garden!
Typically has an alkaline pH that can balance acidic soils and reduce plant diseases like clubroot.       May make neutral or alkaline soils overly alkaline.
Easy to use, versatile, and budget-friendly if purchased in bulk. Can be difficult to source.
Can reduce weeds and improve soil drainage and water retention in sandy or heavy clay soils.   May cause drainage problems if not mixed with soil or other amendments.
Calcium content may prevent issues like blossom end rot.           Not suitable for acid-loving plants.
Why Should You Use Mushroom Compost?
Whether or not you use mushroom compost is a matter of personal choice, but it can be a smart decision for certain gardens. For starters, mushroom compost is budget-friendly when purchased in bulk. But it’s also easy to apply and can be used as weed-suppressing mulch or soil conditioner to fix a number of gardening woes!
Whether you have heavy clay or overly sandy soil, mushroom compost can help aerate dense beds and improve drainage and water retention. However, where mushroom compost really shines is in gardens with nutrient-poor and overly acidic soil. In these spaces, mushroom compost helps to balance pH issues so that plants can absorb nutrients more readily, and it enriches garden beds with organic matter.
How to Use Mushroom Compost in Your Garden
The best time to apply mushroom compost is either before planting a single plant or in spring or summer when plants do most of their growing. You can apply mushroom compost in autumn and winter, too. However, applying this product when plants aren’t actively growing can lead to some nutrient loss and make mushroom compost a little less effective.
Depending on your gardening goals, you can use mushroom compost in a few different ways. But first, you’ll want to pick out and discard any large pieces of limestone that you find in the compost to reduce some of the compost’s alkalinity. If the compost was gathered fresh from mushroom growers, you may also want to set it aside to rest or cure for a few weeks in an out-of-the-way corner of your garden. However, this isn’t necessary if you purchased bagged compost or bulk deliveries from landscaping companies.
If you’re starting a new garden, you can use mushroom compost to enrich your beds or correct soil issues by applying a 2-inch layer of compost and then working it into the top few inches of soil. If you grow plants in containers, you can also use mushroom compost to enrich potting mixes by blending about 1 part mushroom compost with 3 parts potting soil.
If you already have vegetables, fruit, or flowering plants growing in your garden, you can still apply mushroom compost either as a soil conditioner or natural mulch. Spread 2 inches of mushroom compost over your beds or around the base of your plants. You can either work the compost into the soil with a shovel or rake or leave it as-is and allow earthworms and rainfall to do the mixing for you. Just be sure to keep the mushroom compost at least 1 to 2 inches away from plant stems, as applying mulch or compost directly against plant tissue can cause rot.
Precautions and Considerations
Although mushroom compost has a number of perks, it’s not a standalone growing medium and needs to be mixed with soil or another substrate before use. Growing plants in unmixed mushroom compost can lead to poor root development, drainage issues, and other problems.
Due to its higher-than-average salt content, mushroom compost is not ideal for starting seeds or seedlings and should be used in moderation in containers. If you’re growing an organic garden, take note that mushroom compost isn’t always approved for organic gardening. However, if you ask around and do your research, you can likely track down mushroom compost from organic mushroom growers that’s safe to use in organic gardens!
Plants That Don’t Like Mushroom Compost
Mushroom compost is beneficial to many plants, including calcium-loving nightshades, as well as roses, petunias, and dahlias. It can also be particularly beneficial to brassica vegetables that may develop clubroot in overly acidic soils. That said, mushroom compost isn’t ideal for every garden, and you may want to avoid using it if you’re growing the following plants.
Highly salt-sensitive plants, like:
Some orchids
Ferns
Acid-loving plants, like:
 
Rhododendrons
Azaleas
Blueberries
Heaths and heathers
Citrus
Camellias
Some hydrangeas
Some fruiting plants, like currants, raspberries, and cranberries
 
What Plants Should I Use Mushroom Compost With?
Vegetable     Likes Mushroom Compost?        Notes
Tomatoes     ✅ Yes          Helps retain moisture and adds calcium — great for preventing blossom end rot.
Peppers         ✅ Yes          Thrive with improved drainage and nutrients from compost.
Cucumbers   ✅ Yes          Enjoys the organic matter; mix lightly into soil.
Squash (Zucchini, Pumpkin)        ✅ Yes          Benefits from the nutrients and moisture retention.
Corn   ✅ Yes          Heavy feeder — mushroom compost provides a good nutrient boost.
Lettuce & Leafy Greens    ⚠️ Lightly    Small amounts help, but too much can make soil too rich or alkaline.
Spinach         ❌ No           Prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil; mushroom compost is often too alkaline.
Carrots          ❌ No           Compost can cause forked roots; best in looser, sandier soil.
Beets  ⚠️ Caution  Can tolerate a little, but excessive compost raises soil pH too much.
Radishes        ⚠️ Caution  Use in moderation to avoid excess nitrogen (which promotes leaves, not roots).
Potatoes       ❌ No           High lime content in mushroom compost increases risk of scab.
Onions & Garlic      ⚠️ Lightly    Tolerate small amounts but prefer leaner, well-drained soil.
Beans & Peas           ⚠️ Caution  Can grow in it, but prefer less rich, neutral soil.
Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale (Brassicas)       ✅ Yes          Love the extra calcium and nutrients — great pairing!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/what-mushroom-compost-and-how-use-it
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

Good morning…low clouds but seeing more blue sky hopefully the sun will come out.  It is warmer out high today 49F(9C) stay warm, stay safe. 
 
Australia family and friends for Friday Nov 21, 2025,  high for them will be 65F(18C) and clear with sunshine.   stay safe and ENJOY.
 
I wrote to a friend showing her what I am doing now with ordering plant plugs.  I asked her if I should share it with you.  She said yes, she finds it fascinating.  Here is what I mean when I am ordering plant plugs.  I have ordered begonias, pansies, and some vegetables as in cabbage, celery, collards and Kohlrabi. 

Today I will order celosia and Coleus plugs. Celosia I ordered last year isn’t available.  They might have a hard time getting the seeds, or the plant plugs didn’t sell well but that is up to them.  What you see is the varieties and sizes of the plug trays. From 40 to 512 plants in a plug tray. What kind to order?  What colors?  How many?
I must plan on when for them to ship the plug trays.  Minimum order is 8 plug trays. I order to have them come every week, so it gives me time to get them planted before the next order comes in.  I must think about growing time and having them ready for the spring sales.  I don’t get them all planted in one week but work on it.  I must decide what to plant these plug plants in.  small 4 packs, large 4 packs, single 4”, baskets and adding large containers to the list. 
 I must do this with each variety I get from plug trays. I order around 200 varieties so the order will take a few days.   
I sent this order to a broker, and she put it in the order.  I pay the company that the broker works for.   The grower then doesn’t have to bill each of us. The broker and the company have several growers to choose from. Does that make sense?
I can do one order a day to get my mind around it all. Just for your information.    Wish me good luck. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from freeimages.com 

      ​Good afternoon.  I am posting this after 2:00 PM. It is cloudy out, and so damp the air feels like water drops when you walk.  40F(4C) feels like 36F(2C).   We are having a cold, gray day.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends are having a warming up for their spring weather.  Now for their day Thursday Nov 20 it will be high of 61F(16C) but yesterday they had a high of 22C.  They too are having cloudy weather but warmer.  Enjoy and stay safe. 
 
Have you ever heard the adage, “red sky at night, sailor’s delight”?  Long before meteorologists reported the weather, people made forecasts based on their observations of the sky, animals, and nature. Much of the traditional weather lore is surprisingly accurate.
“Red sky at night, sailors delight. Red sky in morning, sailors take warning.”
Where the Saying Came From  Sailors and farmers relied on this weather saying to navigate ships, plant crops, and plan activities. It has been a common adage through the ages!
In the Bible, there is a passage in which Jesus says, “When it is evening, you say, ‘It will be fair weather; for the sky is red.’ And in the morning, ‘It will be stormy today, for the sky is red and threatening.’” (Matthew 16:2–3)
In his poem, “Venus and Adonis,” William Shakespeare, also wrote about the red sky: “Like a red morn that ever yet betokened, Wreck to the seaman, tempest to the field, Sorrow to the shepherds, woe unto the birds, Gusts and foul flaws to herdsmen and to herds.”
What Science Says  Do you see a red sky at night? That means the Sun is setting in the west. We see red (and not other colors) because only the longer wavelengths (red and orange) can pass through our atmosphere, which is filled with dust and pollution. When there is a high-pressure system, the air sinks even further, creating a more vibrant red.
High pressure, however, means dry, clear weather is coming. Weather moves west to east, which means the high pressure is moving east. The good news is not only that we see pretty sunsets but also enjoy dry, fair weather. Clear weather would “delight” a sailor.
Conversely, a reddish sunrise means that dry air from the west has already passed over us on its way east, clearing the way for a storm to move in. The high-pressure air has most likely already passed from the west to the east, and an area of low pressure may follow. Low pressure usually brings clouds, rain, or storms, a warning for sailors that bad weather is moving in.
Does the Saying Hold True?
Yes, this phrase makes meteorological sense.
If the evening sky is especially red, this means that there is a high-pressure system, and the sunrays must travel through a higher concentration of dust particles. This means that stable air is coming in from the west. Good weather is on its way.
If it’s a red sky in the morning, that means the high-pressure system has passed, and a low-pressure system is moving in. Rain and bad weather are on their way.
Note: While weather generally moves west to east, sometimes storms can move from south to north. In those cases, this saying wouldn’t apply!
Other Weather Sayings and Their Meanings
“The higher the clouds, the finer the weather.”
If you spot wispy, thin cirrus clouds up where airplanes fly, expect a spell of pleasant weather.
Keep an eye, however, on the smaller puffy clouds (cumulus), especially in the morning or early afternoon. If the rounded tops of these clouds, which have flat bases, grow higher than their widths, there’s a chance of a thunderstorm forming.
“Clear Moon, frost soon.”
When the night sky is clear, Earth’s surface cools rapidly as the heat from the day radiates back into the atmosphere.
There is no cloud cover to keep the heat in.
If the night is clear enough to see the Moon and the temperature drops enough, frost will form. Expect a chilly morning!-
“When clouds appear like towers, the Earth is refreshed by frequent showers.”
When you spy large, white clouds that look like cauliflower or castles in the sky, there is probably lots of dynamic weather going on inside. Innocent clouds look like billowy cotton, not towers. If the clouds start to swell and take on a gray tint, they’re probably turning into a thunderstorm. Watch out!
“Rainbow in the morning gives you fair warning.”
A rainbow in the morning indicates that a shower is in your near future. Why? The Sun is in the east when it rises. We know that weather moves from west to east. So, if you see a rainbow near sunrise in the east, that means the rain is coming your way!
“Ring around the Moon? Rain or snow real soon.”
Clouds that appear as high as the Moon are made of ice crystals. These cirrostratus clouds appear as thin sheets that stretch across the sky and indicate the approach of rain or snow.
When these cirrostratus clouds pass in front of the Moon, the ice crystals catch the light of the Moon and act as prisms,- forming a white or colorful ring around the Moon.
Thus, a ring around the Moon often indicates cirrus clouds. The warm front is advancing with an associated area of low pressure, and precipitation in the form of rain or snow may follow!
“Mackerel sky, storm is nigh.”
If you have ever seen very high, rippled clouds that look like fish scales, sailors call it a “mackerel sky” and indicate that a storm may follow.
A mackerel sky refers to high-up cirrocumulus clouds. These clouds often precede an advancing warm front that will bring winds and precipitation. See more about identifying clouds in the sky.
“A year of snow, a year of plenty.”
Snow that blankets the land has many benefits! First, it kills a lot of plant pests. Second, it delays the blossoming of fruit trees until the season of killing frosts is over. Third, it prevents thawing and freezing cycles.
Finally, have you ever heard the expression, “snow is a poor man’s fertilizer”? Snow slowly releases nitrogen, providing healthier soil for growing!
“Rain foretold, long last. Short notice, soon will pass.”
If you find yourself toting an umbrella around for days “just in case,” rain will stick around for several hours when it finally comes. The gray overcast dominating the horizon means a large area is affected. Conversely, if you get caught in a surprise shower, it’s likely to be short-lived.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/weather-sayings-and-their-meanings
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

Can you tell what succulent this is?  Quiz today image fromruralsprouts.com 

Give a try what plant these leaves are from?  Image from artofit.org

You should know this one?  image from nurserylady.com 

​Good morning, cloudy, rainy and high on at  41F(5C)  Rain this morning, clouds this afternoon.  But it hasn’t snowed yet. Stay warm, stay dry, stay safe.
 
Australia friends and family for Wed Nov. 19  high of 72F(2C)  wind gusts up to 12MPH with cloudy skies.  Stay cool, stay safe. 
 
Answer to the images:  Yesterday I mislabeled a plant, but I think I got these.

1. Aloe vera with pups
2. Echeveria
3. Hens/chicks

 
This is what I need to be doing, and I will love it.  But first I need to find the potting table as it is a flat surface, I pile things on.  ( Ask Marianne about my flat surfaces.)  I am working in that area now.  Have fun if you want to gain more succulents.  It is easy.
How to propagate succulents  Written By:  Lauren Landers
If you’re a sucker for succulents but don’t want to keep buying new ones—or need to rescue a broken stem or fallen leaf—you’re in luck. Succulents like jade, aloe, and echeveria are some of the easiest plants to multiply at home. With just a single cutting or leaf, you can grow a brand-new plant—no special tools or green thumb required!
I learned how to propagate succulents a few years ago because I wanted to expand my collection without spending more at the garden center. But succulent propagation is useful for more than just making new plants. It’s also a great way to fix leggy or overgrown succulents and save damaged ones that might otherwise be tossed.
In this beginner’s guide, I’ll walk you through three methods for growing new succulents, providing step-by-step instructions.
Aloe vera plants, tropical green plants tolerate hot weather.
3 Easy Ways to Propagate Succulents
There are a few different ways to grow new succulents, depending on the type of plant you’re working with:
Stem Cuttings – Ideal for jade, sedum, echeveria, and elephant bush. Snip a healthy stem and root it in soil after letting it callus.
Leaf Cuttings – Perfect for echeveria, sedum, and burro’s tail. A single, intact leaf can sprout roots and a new baby plant.
Pups or Offshoots – Some succulents, like aloe vera and haworthia, naturally produce baby plants (called pups) that can be separated and repotted.
Succulent leaf propagation with roots
Each leaf can grow roots—and a brand-new succulent! Credit: Product Photo Co
Choose a Healthy Parent Plant
Whether you’re growing succulents indoors or out, it’s important to choose healthy succulent stems and leaves for propagation. It’s totally fine to propagate overgrown, leggy, or broken plants, but the cuttings or leaves you select should look plump and have a healthy color to increase your chances of success.
It’s also wise to avoid propagating plants that are flowering or have pest issues, as they may not have enough energy to produce new roots! Succulent propagation works best when the source plant is actively growing and pest-free.
Succulents You Can Propagate
Jades, echeveria, and hens and chicks can all be propagated from stem or leaf cuttings. But you can also propagate other common succulents like:
Aloes – typically propagate from pups
Sedums – root easily from both leaves and stems
Haworthia – often produces pups at the base
String of pearls
Kalanchoe
Burro’s tail
Elephant bush (Portulacaria afra)
Try a few different types if you’re new to propagating succulents—it helps to see what works best in your space and conditions.
How to Propagate Succulents
Propagation techniques vary slightly between different types of succulents, but most follow the same basic steps. Some succulent cuttings can be propagated in water, but most root best in a soilless potting media.
In general, it’s best to take cuttings from plants when they’re actively growing in spring or summer. However, you can propagate damaged or broken plants at other times of the year.
Whether you’re propagating stems, leaves, or larger sections of leggy plants, here’s a step-by-step look at how to propagate succulents—and what tools you’ll need for the job.
Tools and Materials for Succulent Propagation
Healthy succulent plant
Sharp knife or pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol (to sanitize blades)
Small pots or seed-starting trays
Succulent and cactus potting mix
Rooting hormone (optional, but can help)
Babies grow on mother plant. Hen and Chicks succulent with offsets or pups growing under the healthy mature plant.
A perfect example of “like mother, like pup!” This Hen and Chicks succulent grows baby offsets (or “chicks”) right beneath the main rosette, ready to thrive on their own. Credit: Christina Siow
Step 1: Take a Cutting
If you’re propagating a stem cutting, sterilize your knife with rubbing alcohol. Then, cut a healthy stem from the parent plant at a leaf node. Ideally, your cutting should be at least 2 inches long with a few leaves attached. If you’re propagating a broken stem, trim off the broken stem end with a smooth, clean cut.
If you’re dealing with a leggy succulent, cut the leggy top off the parent plant, leaving 1 to 2 inches of stem and some leaves attached to the base. Trim off any leggy bits from the top section of the stem you removed and return the rooted bottom of the plant to a spot that receives bright, indirect light so it can regrow.
If you’re propagating a succulent leaf, gently twist or pull the leaf from the stem, making sure the base of the leaf stays intact. Leaves that are cut off the parent plant generally won’t propagate well.
For offshoots or pups, remove the entire plant from its pot and gently separate the baby plant from the base of the mother plant, or trim it away with your knife. This is the easiest way to propagate plants like haworthia and aloes!
Succulent leaves and parts prepared for propagation
Succulent starters ready to grow! These healthy leaves and cuttings are prepped for propagation—just add patience. Credit: daphne.t
Step 2: Prep for Planting
After you’ve collected your cuttings or leaves, don’t plant them right away. Instead, place them on a clean plate or paper towel in a warm, dry, shaded spot for a few days. This allows the cut end to callus over, which helps prevent rot when the cutting is planted in soil. For leaves, you can just set them out flat. For stems, you might prop them upright in an empty pot or tray to dry.
If rooting is slow, you can place a heating mat under the tray to speed things up. Just don’t rush it—some succulent varieties take longer than others.
Tiny succulents take root! Each fallen leaf sprouts a new plant, turning this tray into a bed of baby succulents in the making. Credit: 5Foote
Step 3: “Plant” the Cutting
Once the cuttings have had a chance to callus, it’s time to plant.
Stem cuttings: Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional) and insert it about 1 inch deep into premoistened cactus and succulent potting mix.
Leaves: Fill pots or a seed-starting tray with a succulent potting mix. Lay the leaves out flat on the surface of the soil so they aren’t touching. Don’t bury them.
Pups and offshoots: You don’t need to wait for them to callus. These usually come with small roots already. Simply plant them in individual pots with a cactus and succulent potting mix—like any small plant.
Choose shallow trays or small pots with drainage holes and use a well-draining mix designed for cacti and succulents.
Crassula succulent plant rooting from a cutting
This Crassula cutting is putting down roots—even a small stem can start a whole new succulent! Credit: Aninka Bongers-Sutherland
Caring for Newly Propagated Succulents
Once you’ve “planted” stem cuttings and leaves, move them into a section of your home that receives bright, indirect light—not full sun. Mist or water them lightly when the top 1/4 inch of soil feels dry.
You can also add a heating mat beneath your pots or seedling trays if you want them to root a little faster. Just don’t cover the cuttings with a humidity dome or plastic—excess humidity can make succulent cuttings rot!
Rooting takes time. Stem cuttings often root within a few weeks. Leaf cuttings will first grow tiny “pups,” followed by roots. You’ll know a cutting has rooted when it starts growing again or resists a gentle tug.
What to Do Once Your Succulents Root
Stem cuttings: Once rooted, repot them into well-draining pots filled with succulent potting mix (if needed).
Leaf pups: Let the baby plants grow on the surface of the soil for a month or two. During this time, the pups feed off the original leaf, but you should mist them lightly if the soil feels dry. Once they develop roots, you can plant them (leaf and all) into their own pots.
Be gentle during this process. Plantlets are delicate, and they’ll establish faster with minimal disruption.
Bright, indirect sunlight
Water sparingly (only when soil dries out)
Fertilizer is not always needed. Optional: Lightly fertilize with a diluted, liquid organic fertilizer in spring.
Succulents are low-maintenance, but newly propagated plants may need a bit more babying until they’re rooted and growing.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Although most succulents are relatively easy to propagate, you may still run into a few issues when growing them.
Rot: Occurs when cuttings are kept too damp or in high humidity. Let cuttings dry thoroughly before planting and avoid overwatering.
No roots: Some cuttings take longer. Be patient, and try adding bottom heat or rooting hormone.
Shriveled leaves: If a leaf cutting shrivels up before rooting, try again with a fresher, plumper leaf and be sure to let it callus.
I find that taking more cuttings than you think you’ll need is a good idea—propagation is a numbers game.
Time to put down roots! Transplanting propagated succulents into their own pots gives these young plants room to grow.
From aloes to ZZ plants, there are so many succulents to choose from and plants to propagate. Don’t worry if your first attempt doesn’t work perfectly. Practice definitely makes perfect. If your first propagation attempts don’t produce viable plants, try again with new cuttings or leaves. Sooner than you think, you’ll have a few new succulents on your hands—and a new skillset in your pocket!
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse