image from fastgrowingtrees.com

       We had frost this morning.  Larry noticed it at 4:30 temperature was 34 degrees, still that cold at 7:30.  I am so thankful we got the rest of the succulents and plants inside the greenhouse. I will have lots of work to work on each one of them for next season.  I am feeling better with less or little pain.  See how this goes.    It has been almost 5 weeks.  See Dr. Li next week.  Hip and pain getting better.  NOW just need to get the hip and leg stronger.  
​
I was asked this week about fertilizing her lemon tree when she moves it in.  Here is what I found.  I think more important humidity and light than fertilizer.  How many of you raise lemon trees inside?
Growing citrus plants in containers By National Gardening Association Editors
For the most part, the areas where home gardeners plant the citrus trees are the same areas where citrus is grown commercially. But if space is limited or climate isn't suitable, it's still possible to enjoy these trees and their bounty year-round. How? By growing citrus trees in containers.
Tools and Materials
A citrus tree of your choice, grafted onto Flying Dragon (Hiryu) rootstock
A container such as a half-whiskey barrel
Enough soil mix to fill the container, about 2 cubic feet
Fertilizer: controlled-release or soluble liquid
To grow indoors, a pebble tray for extra humidity and perhaps a grow lamp for extra light
If you live in the mild-winter West, Southwest, or Southeast, you can grow most kinds of citrus in container outdoors year-round. Where winter minimum temperatures regularly dip below 25oF, you can still grow citrus trees if you have a bright spot indoors or out protected from frost.
Which Types to Grow?. Any type of citrus tree can grow in a container, at least for a while. However, kinds such as lemon and grapefruit, which naturally grow into larger plants, will quickly outgrow their containers.
Generally your best are the naturally small varieties such as 'Improved Meyer' lemon, 'Bearss' lime, 'Satsuma' mandarin, and kumquat. These varieties are more likely to remain both healthy and productive in containers for several years.
Or choose any citrus that is grafted to Flying Dragon (Hiryu) rootstock. Any citrus growing on this rootstock will be significantly dwarfed, thereby extending its useful life in a container.
Size and Type of Container. Choose a pot about the size of a 15-gallon nursery container. The ubiquitous half whiskey barrel is a good size, too. In traditional European orangeries, the classic container is 24 inches square and deep, and painted white. Plastic and faux clay pots in the 30- to 36-inch-diameter range work well, but plastic will transmit the sun's heat more readily than wood or clay, perhaps enough to damage roots. Wooden containers are prone to decay. You can significantly slow the decay process by coating the interior with asphalt roof patch.
Whatever kind of container you choose, make sure it has good drainage; drill extra holes if you're in doubt. To prevent soil from washing out, cover drain holes with small sections of window screen, but don't cover the holes with stones. To facilitate drainage and allow good air circulation around the container, raise it slightly off the ground.
Soils. Use a premixed sterile potting soil designed for container plants. Never use ordinary garden soil even good soil for container citrus. What is just fine in the ground just won't work in a container. Once confined in a container, most garden soils are too dense and water drains too slowly. Though you can make your own soil mix (4 parts ground pine or fir bark and 1 part fine sand), unless you need a lot it's more cost effective to buy it ready-made.
Watering and Fertilizing. Plants in containers generally require more frequent watering than the same plants in open soil, and citrus are no exception. Especially during hot, dry, or windy weather, daily watering may be necessary. The basic rule is to soak the rootball thoroughly until water drains out the bottom once the top 2 to 3 inches of soil are dry.
In some situations, water will drain out the bottom of the pot without soaking the rootball. This happens when the rootball dries and shrinks slightly, pulling away from the edges of the container. The water moves down the gap without rewetting the roots. To help rewet the dried rootball, place three or four drops of a mild dish soap on it. The soap will help the water soak in so the rootball can expand to fill the container again.
Frequent watering causes needed nutrients to wash through the soil more quickly than is typical in most soils. Controlled-release fertilizers are less apt to immediately wash through soil, making a single applications useful for a longer time. (Exactly how long depends upon the specific fertilizer and your watering frequency.) Soluble liquid fertilizers generally provide more exacting control but also require more frequent applications, every other week or so. In either case, follow the directions on the label of the fertilizer you choose.
More than most plants, citrus are prone to deficiencies of the micronutrients iron, manganese, and zinc. Inadequate amounts of any one of them will cause leaves to yellow while veins remain green. Therefore it is a good idea to apply these to citrus in containers at least once a year. Look for them in the "chelated" form which makes the micronutrients more accessible to citrus roots. The best time is in early spring just as new leaves are beginning to emerge.
Growing Citrus Indoors. By moving container-grown citrus into a greenhouse, sunroom, or bright indoor location, gardeners anywhere can grow them. Most of the same rules apply, with a few differences.
First, if you hope to harvest fruit, choose a naturally acidic citrus, not a sweet orange or grapefruit. Examples of acidic varieties include 'Improved Meyer' and 'Ponderosa' lemons, calamondins, and kumquats. These are most likely to produce fruit indoors in winter. Other citrus will grow and flower but are less likely to produce fruit.
When moving your plants outdoors in spring or back indoors in fall, make the transition gradual, in at night, out during day, and lasting about a month. Also, before moving the plant indoors, shower it completely with warm and slightly soapy water to wash off any bugs. Pests that you don't notice outdoors can become problems once inside.
Compared to outdoors, homes in winter are darker and warmer, and have much drier air. That's why anything you can do to provide additional light and extra humidity is so beneficial: grow lights, and a tray of pebbles under the pot. Cool, bright rooms, such as a partially heated sunroom, are best.
Tips
Naturally acidic citrus, such as 'Improved Meyer' lemon, are best for indoor growing.
Supply nutrients with controlled-release fertilizers to reduce the number of applications necessary through the year.
Rewet dry citrus rootballs by placing a few drops of mild dishwashing soap directly onto the soil, then water with slightly warm water.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/1294/?utm_source=nl&utm_medium=mail&utm_campaign=nl_2021-10-16
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from Old Farmers Almanac
​WARNING: Do not mulch like this! “Mulch volcanoes” will encourage rot at the base of the plant.

     ​LEARN HOW TO MULCH YOUR GARDEN IN FALL, WINTER, AND SPRING  By Robin Sweetser
How to Mulch Your Garden | Types of Mulch
 Mulch has been called the gardener’s friend—and for good reason. In winter, mulch protects bare soil, prevents erosion, and protects plants. In spring, mulch locks in moisture, suppresses weeds, and feeds the soil. Learn how to mulch, when to mulch, and about the many different types of mulch to use in your garden.
Mulching is a fundamental part of gardening to plants looking beautiful and productive through the year. If you don’t already know how to mulch, it’s important to learn when to mulch, the right depth for mulch, and the right type of mulch.
WHAT IS MULCH?
At its simplest, mulch is any material that covers the soil’s surface. In nature, mulch is simply fallen leaves and plant debris. In the garden, mulch can also include compost, wood chips, rotted manure, cardboard, or even seaweed.
It’s only recently that we’ve come to appreciate mulch’s sustainable and ecological benefits. Done correctly, mulching feeds our soil’s living microorganisms with nutrients and the waste from these tiny microbes creates healthier soil structure for plants, limiting compaction.
BENEFITS OF MULCHING
Reduces weed growth by keeping light from reaching the soil surface.
Reduces water loss from the soil surface, which helps maintain soil moisture.
Moderates soil temperatures, keeping it warmer on cold nights and cooler on hot days.
Protects bare soil, reducing erosion and soil compaction.
Protects plants from the harsh conditions of winter freezes, thaws, and winds.
There are many other benefits of mulch:
In winter, soil under mulch will be warmer than unprotected soil. This protects plants from the cycle of freezing and thawing (which can heave them out of the ground).
Prevents crusting of the soil surface. Water moves more readily into soil covered with mulch instead of running off.
Keeps soil from splashing onto leaves; keeping soil off leaves reduces the chance of plants getting fungal and bacterial diseases.
Breaks down and feeds the soil (if organic mulch).
Improves the structure of clay soils and the moisture-holding capacity of sandy soils.
Slowly increases soil fertility (if organic) and may make micronutrients already in the soil more available.
Warms the soil in spring, allowing the gardener to plant days or weeks before the soil would normally be ready.
Keeps plants clean and off the ground, especially tomatoes and melons, to avoid plant disease.
Limits the chance of damaging trees’ trunks when mulch is placed around them instead of grass.
Improves plant health and growth (due to fewer weeds and more consistent moisture and soil temperature).
Makes gardens “spiffed up” and attractive, giving a uniform appearance and rhythm to garden design.
DISADVANTAGES OF MULCHING
Although using mulch has many benefits, in some cases, its use can be detrimental to the garden:
TOO much mulch (a layer more than 3 inches deep) can bury and suffocate plants; water and oxygen can’t reach the roots. A layer of 2 to 3 inches of mulch is ample. Do NOT overmulch.
Mulch can contribute to rotting bark if piled up around the trunks of trees and shrubs. Keep mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the base of woody plants. No more “volcano” mulching around trees! Keeping mulch away from the trunk discourages wood-boring insects, gnawing rodents, and decay.
Mulch near plant stems is the perfect place for slugs, snails, tunneling rodents, and more pests to reside. Sprinkle wood ashes or diatomaceous earth around the base of precious plants to keep the slugs and snails at bay.
Mulch can bake your plants with excess heat in midsummer if not done properly. (See more below.)
Light-colored, wood-based mulches, like sawdust or fresh wood chips, can steal nitrogen from the soil as they break down. Counter this effect by adding a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as soybean meal, alfalfa, or cottonseed meal, to the mulch. (Learn more about soil amendments.)
HOW MUCH MULCH IS NEEDED?
With most organic mulches, a layer of 2 to 3 inches is plenty. The finer the material, the thinner the layer needed.
Inorganic mulch is often more shallow. For example, a mulch of small stones usually only needs to be an inch deep.
If You Want Mulch This Deep…  …You Will Need This Much Mulch to Cover 100 Square Feet
2 inches               18 cubic feet
3 inches               27 cubic feet
1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet
Dry mulches—including sawdust, woodchips, peat moss, and dry straw—can be a fire hazard. Keep them away from buildings to be on the safe side.
TYPES OF MULCH
The ideal mulch should be dense enough to block weed growth but light and open enough to allow water and air to reach the soil. Factors to consider when purchasing mulch are cost, availability, ease of application, and what it looks like in the garden. There are lots of materials of various colors and textures to choose from.
Both organic and inorganic mulches can be used effectively in the garden.
Organic Mulches
Organic mulches are natural products from leaves, trees, grass, and other plant material, often from your own yard. They mimic nature, breaking down gradually over time. The advantage is that they are truly adding organic matter to the soil. The disadvantage is that they must be replenished periodically.
Compost is readily available and breaks down rapidly to improve soil. If you don’t have your own, often towns make it available from their leaf composting facility. The disadvantage is that it must be replenished and can contain weed seeds.
Shredded or chipped bark. Softwood bark mulch is attractive, resists compaction, and breaks down slowly. Hardwood bark is attractive but breaks down quickly and needs to be properly composted to avoid sour mulch and nuisance fungi.
Shredded leaves and leaf mold are readily available and, if chopped, eventually break down and feed the soil with beneficial materials. The disadvantage is that leaves can mat if wet which reduces the oxygen and moisture in the soil. Avoid matted layers of wet leaves.
Straw and salt marsh hay are inexpensive and a helpful covering; however, they decompose more quickly, may harbor rodents, and are easily blown away by the wind.
Grass clippings are ready available but should be dried first or spread thinly to keep them from becoming a hot, slimy, stinky mess. Also, you can not use clippings from grass treated with chemicals in a food garden.
Pine needles are attractive and stay in place better than most mulches. They are slow to break down and aren’t as acidic as you might expect, so don’t worry about them chaning the soil’s pH.
Local byproducts, such as spent hops from a brewery, cocoa hulls, ground corncobs, coffee grounds, newspaper, or cardboard can also be much. Get creative!
Inorganic Mulches
Black plastic mulch helps warm the soil in spring, reduces water loss, and is convenient. This can make a big difference in short growing seasons. However, it’s not permeable so it’s more difficult to water; it also breaks down when exposed to sunlight and the soil under the plastic becomes very hot in the middle of summer if not shaded by leaves or covered with another mulch.
Silver plastic mulch excels at warming soil in spring but doesn’t control weeds; the soil becomes even hotter with clear plastic in midsummer and plants can be damaged if the plastic is not shaded.
Crushed stone, gravel, marble, or brick chips provide a permanent mulch around shrubs and trees. That said, these mulches are expensive, hard to move, and can get into the lawn. Weed seeds and soil can still find their way into the stones; an underlayer of landscape fabric will help prevent this.
Landscape fabric smothers weeds while allowing air, fertilizer, and water to move through them and into the soil. They are treated to resist decomposition and they help retain soil moisture. It’s important to fasten the fabric down so perennial weeds do not push them up.
HOW TO APPLY MULCH
Mulching in Autumn
We do not generally use mulch in the fall, except for in bare, unplanted garden beds to prevent erosion. If you did not plant a winter cover crop (which you would till under in the spring), you should spread a thick layer of soil-conditioning compost or well-rotted organic matter over the bare soil. You could also use shredded leaves. Lay it at least four inches deep.
Otherwise, do not apply mulch to your landscape in autumn. The soil will not cool down quickly and plants may continue to grow. New growth may not harden off and can be damaged by winter cold. Also, mulching in the fall keeps the soil wet, which can lead to root rot and plant death.
Note: If you’re setting out new areas, start by clearing the surface of any debris and any rocks larger than a hen’s egg. Mow down grass or cut back weeds to the ground. Fast forward a few months and any grass and weeds below will have rotted down, while earthworms will work to gradually incorporate the organic matter into the soil below.
Mulching in Winter
Once you’ve had several freezes (often around Thanksgiving or after), then apply winter mulch around the base of any tender perennial plants or new plants. Grafted plants, like hybrid tea roses, benefit from being mulched heavily.
Shredded mulch, straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves are all good winter mulch. Apply 3 to 4 inches. It’s important to apply enough mulch in winter to keep the frozen ground completely covered so the plant remains dormant until spring no matter what type of warm or cold spells occur.
 
Take care NOT to put mulch next to the trunks of trees or crowns of plants, as this invites bark-gnawing rodents.
Protect branches and buds of evergreen or semi-evergreen shrubs such as rhododendrons and viburnums by wrapping them with burlap or protecting them with a tree guard filled with shredded leaves for insulation.
Mulching in Spring
Remove winter mulch in the spring when all danger of a hard frost is past so that the ground can warm and new growth won’t be inhibited.
If there are lots of weeds on the ground where you want to grow, consider a permeable landscape fabric on many of the beds.
Or, lay down a layer of cardboard before adding your organic matter. Thoroughly wet the cardboard to help it break down. The cardboard will serve as a further barrier to weeds, exhausting and eventually killing most of them off. Once the growing season gets underway, you’ll find that any weeds that do manage to make it through will be much easier to remove.
After a few spring rains, when the soil has warmed, we lay down soaker hoses in each bed.
Then we cover the hoses with a fabric to speed up the change in soil temperatures and warm the soil for earlier planting.
Planting holes are cut at different spacings for different crops. Watering is efficient, and maintenance of a large area is made much easier.
Once the plants get some size on them, the fabric is covered and does not look so bad! We also use organic mulch including straw, leaf mold, grass clippings, wood chips, and shredded leaves for crops that like it cooler.
Regularly mulch with organic matter. Replace old mulch as it rots down or becomes incorporated into the soil, so that the ground is being constantly fed and gradually built up.
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/types-mulch-advantages-and-disadvantages-mulching
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from truleafmarket.com 

      ​Boy it feels like fall today.  Cloudy, rainy early this morning, wind blowing and the leaves are coming off the trees. Temperature is at 55 degrees .  High today of 69 and low tonight of 45.  But it is almost mid October so we should expect it.  Stay warm now, and stay safe.  This weather makes me thinking about planting fall bulbs for spring blooms. 
SPECTACULAR SPRING FLOWER BULBS TO PLANT IN FALL  By Catherine Boeckmann
If you haven’t planted fall bulbs, it’s the perfect time! We’ve listed the best, most reliable bulbs for a glorious springtime display—PLUS, which bulbs are deer-resistant. We also have a wonderful chart that shows which flowers bloom up early, mid-, and late spring for color all season!
WHAT ARE FALL BULBS?
Fall bulbs don’t flower in the fall. They’re planted in the fall to then bloom gloriously in the springtime! Think crocus, snowdrops, daffodils, tulips, and hyacinth, among others!
This is in contrast to summer-flowering bulbs such as dahlias, elephant ear, caladium, gladiolus, and cannas, which are planted in the spring.
Why do we plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall? These spring beauties are what we call “dormant perennial.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show.
If you’re a beginner gardener, bulbs are so easy to pop in the ground (and spark your interest in gardening)! They’re foolproof to plant and really lift the spirits, not to mention feed the early pollinators such as the drowsy queen bumblebees.
WHEN TO PLANT FALL BULBS
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 60°F in the late fall or about 6 weeks before a hard frost is expected. Consult our Frost Dates Calculator for fall frost dates.
This is usually during September and October in the North. (Halloween is a good deadline to set.)  In the South, bulbs are generally planted a little later—in October and November. (Tulips are one exception—you can plant tulips as late in winter as you can get them into the soil.)
In the warmest parts of the South, you may need to pre-cool some bulbs. Most fall bulbs require a 12 to 16 week cold period in ventilated packages in the bottom of your refrigerator at 40° to 50°F before planting. Check with your bulb supplier to determine whether the bulbs you purchase have been pre-cooled or whether you may need to give them a cold treatment.
Also, in warmer climates, note that some bulbs will only bloom once and then they’re done for the season. For example, you will have to plant tulip bulbs again each year. Still, they are a beautiful sight to behold and well worth the effort! Other fall bulbs, such as daffodils, will act as perennials and come up year after year.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/bulbs-plant-fall
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from gardenerdy.com

mine is morning glories 

     ​Cool out this morning, so definitely feels like fall.  BUT look at the date it should.  We had a little rain yesterday but looks like more rain tomorrow.  I am starting to use the cane but this recovery is going slower than I hoped.  PATIENCE is what I need.  Hope all is well with you, and enjoy this fall like weather.  Stay safe as there are lots of traffic on the roads with the fall harvest.
I found this interesting I have posted my zodiac flower the morning glory. 
The Best Flower for Your Zodiac Sign  By MARISA DONNELLY
You don’t have to be a 'flower person’ to like flowers or appreciate their beauty. Whether you’re a rose kind of gal purely for the romantic vibes, or a guy who’s secretly partial to daisies because of a late relative who used to garden alongside you when you were little, flowers resonate with each of us in some way, especially when you consider your birth month.
From the most delicate to the bloom-where-planted type, here are the flowers that connect best with you based on your zodiac sign.
Aries - Daffodils
(March 21 – April 20)
Known for their bright colors and spring bloom, daffodils are often considered to represent rebirth or new beginnings—perfect for the Aries—born between late March through April. These easy-blooming flowers are a great match with the sign who is just as bright and full of energy.
Taurus: Canna Lilies
(April 21 – May 21)
Canna lilies take a bit to grow, waiting for the perfect temperatures and soil before calling a place home. This is similar to the Taurus, who is drawn to stability and often bides time before fully committing. After these flowers have established themselves, they bloom into beautiful and intense flowers. Like the Taurus, canna lilies are adaptable and bold once they’ve taken root.
Gemini: Carnations
(May 22 – June 21)
Like the Gemini, who loves to be the center of attention, carnations are bright and cheerful flowers often chosen to be staple items in weddings and special occasions. These blooms are romantic and social, modeling the traits of the Gemini who loves to be around others and create a brightness in every situation or event.
Cancer: Roses
(June 22 – July 22)
Roses are a symbol of dedication but are varied in their colors and designs in order to perfectly match the emotion of the giver, or the personality of the receiver. Like the Cancer, roses embody a fierce loyalty. Their lighter hues are gentle and nurturing, and their bold colors symbolize strength and protectiveness—all traits of the moody, romantic Cancer.
Leo: Amaranthus
(July 23 – August 22)
Leos are proud and bold—so naturally, the flower that matches their personality best is the amaranth/amaranthus which grows anywhere from 18 inches to up to six feet tall. Much like the Leo, this attention-grabbing flower thrives on the adoration of others but does not do well with change or re-potting. Finding (and keeping) comfort and stability is important.
Virgo: Morning Glories
(August 23 – September 22)
Virgos are reflective and thoughtful, often keeping to themselves and moving through their own cycle independently. Morning glories symbolize affection and rebirth, embodying all that the Virgo is—mild
Libra: Daisies
(September 23 – October 22)
Daisies have strong, thick stems and soft, fluffy flowers—a balance of opposites that is so fitting with the Libra who craves order and peace. Daisies symbolize sincerity and gratefulness which is very representative of the Libra’s selfless and inherently gentle nature.
Scorpio: Oriental Lilies
(October 23 – November 21)
Scorpios are independent water signs; they feel emotion deeply and are content to be by themselves as they experience life. Oriental lilies, similarly, are low maintenance and thrive with the simple things: light and soil. These flowers evoke emotion with their rich colors and alluring fragrance, much like the Scorpio who often brings people in and soothes them with a calm demeanor.
Sagittarius: Hibiscus
(November 22 – December 21)
Hibiscus flowers are vibrant and bold, coming in a variety of colors. Like the Sagittarius, these flowers are filled with life and thrive on socialization—hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies alike flock to their petals. Hibiscus flowers are constantly soaking up water and energy from everything around them, just as the Sagittarius is always being filled by the adventure and thrill of the outside world.
Capricorn: Ivy
(December 22 – January 20)
Ivy symbolizes faithfulness and fidelity; as such, these flowers won’t easily let go of what they’ve clung to. This is similar to the Capricorn, stubborn and driven in nature. This sign is a leader and dedicated to those (s)he cares for. Ivy perfectly embodies this vigor and passion.
Aquarius: Orchids
(January 21 – February 19)
Orchids are loved by all and celebrated for their natural grace, loyalty, and independence. Don’t be fooled by the orchid’s self-surviving nature, though. Much like the Aquarius, these flowers are delicate and thrive on closeness and connection with others to truly bloom.
Pisces: Lilacs
(February 20 – March 20)
Born in the spring, lilacs embody the newness and rebirth of this water sign. Like the Pisces, lilacs display serenity with their calm, yet rich purple and white hues. However, for the flower and sign alike, hiding right below the surface is this vibrant fiercely passionate nature.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/the-best-flower-for-your-zodiac-sign-5097462
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image theroanokestar.com 

      ​     It is raining out now with a temperature of 53 so it does feel like fall.  I am still hurting and getting tired of this pain.  Hope soon it will be gone.  I know patience which is easy to preach but harder to live by.  Hope all of you are well, getting things done in the garden.  Enjoying our fall weather.  I have heard from Evelyn in Australia, and she is enjoying her spring.  They have had lots of winter moisture, so her flower beds are looking good.  I saw one of her roses and it was very tall and full of blooms.  Gardening the worldwide.
But for us it is time to think about what to do with our container gardens if we winter over.  Here are some ideas on what to do. 
How to Winterize Potted Plants  By MARIE IANNOTTI
 Outdoor container gardens are typically planted with annual plant species that are discarded come late fall and replaced with new plants each spring. However, many perennial plants such as roses, peonies, and hibiscus can also be grown outdoors in containers and kept alive through winter. That being said, protecting your potted plants throughout the cold winter is not always easy—even species that are technically cold-hardy in your area can experience harsh conditions they can't tolerate and many species that survive the winter just fine when planted in the ground can die in containers without the proper care.
As a general rule of thumb, a perennial plant should be rated for two cold hardiness zones colder than your climate to be dependably hardy in a container through winter. For example, a gardener in USDA cold hardiness zone 5 can expect perennials rated for zone 3 or colder to survive the winter in containers.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
While some plants can survive light frosts, others will die as soon as their cells freeze. Depending on their hardiness, some potted plants will respond to the first frost by going dormant just like garden plants do. However, as the temperature continues to drop, their roots might die unless they are protected.
Whatever measures you take to protect your potted perennials for winter should be implemented a week or so before the first frost is expected. Follow these easy steps to safeguard your container plants and ensure they make it through winter healthy and unscathed.
Inspect Your Container
Make sure your container is strong enough to last through the winter. The more porous a container is, the more likely it will be to crack. Fiberglass and plastic containers are usually resilient enough to tolerate freezing, while certain natural materials, such as untreated terra cotta, readily absorb water. When water freezes and expands, it can crack the container. If your plant is not currently in a container that can withstand frozen temperatures, consider repotting it before continuing.
Dig a Hole
Choose a relatively sheltered location in your garden or elsewhere on your lawn to house your plants for winter. Dig a hole that's slightly deeper than the container you wish to bury, allowing for just a bit of extra room around the edges of the container as well.
Layer in Gravel
Spreading a layer of gravel at the base of your hole will facilitate drainage in the spring as the soil in the pot eventually thaws. The loose soil of potted plants typically defrosts a little faster than surrounding garden soil, which means drainage can be an issue.
Put the Pot into the Hole and Backfill With Soil
Place your container into the hole atop the gravel, then spread a layer of garden soil over the top of the pot. Ideally, the rim of the pot should be slightly lower than the surrounding ground, allowing you to cover it completely without creating a lump in the surface of your garden. If you need to, mark the top of the soil so you know where to find your plant come spring.
Winterize the Plant
Plan to winterize your buried container plant just as you would any similar plant growing in the ground. For example, if the standard recommendation is to mulch over a particular garden perennial for winter, do so with the buried potted plant. This might also involve spreading leaves, straw, or compost over the spot where you've buried the pot.
Unearth Your Plant in Spring
When spring comes, lift your potted plant from the soil as soon as the ground thaws and new growth begins to appear (you don't want a buried plant to soak in water from spring rain any longer than necessary). Move the pot back to the location where it resides for the warmer months.
Sheltering Potted Plants for Winter
It's not necessarily low temperatures that kill plants over the winter, but rather the rapid swings between warmer and cooler temperatures that can stress the plant by thawing and freezing cycles. If you can provide shelter to help insulate your container plants from temperature swings, your potted perennials will stand a much better chance of survival. There are several ways to do this.
Cluster Your Potted Plants
Cluster several potted plants together in a sheltered part of your property, such as up against the house. There, they'll be protected from any winds that can rapidly drop temperatures and will enjoy some heat radiating from the house. Choose a spot that is relatively shady—contrary to the belief that sunny is best, placing your potted perennial in a bright location can exacerbate any thaw-freeze cycle over the winter. Thus, it's typically best to position plants in a location where the temperature swings will be less dramatic.
Provide Additional Shelter
In addition to clustering your plants together, you can also cover the pots with a tarp, straw, or another insulating material. Doing so will moderate the temperature swings and increase the likelihood of your perennials surviving the winter.
Build Insulating Silos
Some gardeners opt to build insulated silos around their potted plants to protect them from damaging winds, especially in the case of more delicate varietals like potted roses and other shrubs. To do so, use chicken wire or metal hardware cloth and stakes to form an enclosure around the plant. Fill the silo with loose leaves or straw to keep your plan cozy. Another option to protect young trees and shrubs from strong winter winds is to wrap burlap around the outside of the silo, leaving a slight gap on the southwest exposure to allow heat to escape.
Moving Potted Plants Indoors for Winter
A technique that is sometimes successful is to move potted perennials indoors for the winter. This works best with tropical perennials, such as begonias, that keep growing through the winter. Small potted fruit trees that spend the summer on a deck or patio can also live indoors through winter. However, perennials that require winter dieback and a dormancy period shouldn't be brought inside.
The key is to have an indoor spot with plenty of light. This can be hard to come by during the winter months when the sun is low in the sky and the days are short. Additionally, indoor conditions are often very dry in the winter, and many perennials need humidity—if your house lacks moisture, invest in a humidifier if you plan to bring any container plants indoors.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-overwinter-container-plants-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from ideal-living.com 

      We had ½” rain last night so that was good.  Larry just got done watering everything so now it will be done for a little while.  Had help here yesterday so got some of the succulents inside the greenhouse.  I am glad.  I can’t help much yet, but I am getting better and around easier.  The pain comes and goes.  I had a little extra surgery on removing a pin in my thigh, and I think that surgery has made recovery a little longer.  BUT it is coming. 
How to Keep Squirrels Out of Your Garden  By JAMIE MCINTOSH
Mischievous, maddening, and always poised for action, squirrels seem to always be one step ahead of gardeners when it comes to the damage they inflict on our flower and vegetable beds. Rarely does any one single method achieve complete squirrel control, but with some persistence and a multi-pronged approach you can put a damper on the havoc these rodents wreak in the landscape.
What Plants Do Squirrels Eat?
Squirrels relish many of the same plants that we do, including fruits and vegetables, seeds, nuts, and berries. They will also make quick work of tulip bulbs, and even tulip blossoms. However, there are many plants that squirrels find distasteful. These plants have strong odors or flavors that squirrels do not enjoy. Consider adding alliums (onion, garlic), daffodils, galanthus, lily-of-the-valley, geraniums, fritillary flowers, goldenrod, and bleeding hearts in your beds, borders, and hanging baskets.
General Squirrel Prevention
Like all wild animals, squirrels are opportunistic, and will take advantage of the proverbial low-lying fruit in your landscape. Bird feeders are one of the biggest squirrel attractants, and it doesn't matter if your feeder is the Fort Knox of squirrel-proof feeders, as seed will always spill onto the ground. You don't have to give up on feeding the birds, but switching to less palatable feed like safflower seed or seed treated with cayenne pepper can deter hungry squirrels.
 Keeping the garden clean can also discourage squirrels from gathering. After the harvest is over, remove any dropped fruits or vegetables from the ground. Don't forget to clear away other foodstuffs that attract squirrels, like leftover pet food and dropped acorns or black walnuts in the landscape.
What about pet cats and dogs? The sight of a predator lying nearby may temporarily deter squirrels, but all pets must sleep, and the quick rodents will continue their damage during these catnaps. Additionally, cats and dogs can create their own nibbling and digging damage in the garden.
Squirrel Repellants
There are many squirrel repellants on the market, but most of them are based on predator urine or hot pepper. Homemade recipes may also include garlic or onion, vinegar, or peppermint oil.1 Repellants may have some success used in conjunction with other deterrents, but gardeners must be vigilant about reapplication. Wind, water, and sunlight will cause repellants to break down quickly. Repellants also have the disadvantage of repelling the gardener. Do you want your rose garden to smell like coyote urine and onions?
Squirrel Fences
Fencing has a lot going for it as a pest exclusion device for any animal, but fencing can also be expensive and unsightly for larger areas. Cage is a more accurate term than fence, as no fence can keep out the agile squirrel. Although squirrels have the ability to overcome a very sturdy barrier with their digging and gnawing, a floating row cover is surprisingly effective as a barrier in the vegetable garden. Squirrels do not like the feeling of enclosure, which would prevent their ability to sprint away from a predator.
Squirrel Decoys, Noisemakers, and Sprinklers
Fierce resin owls and creepy black rubber snakes seem to populate the garden aisle every spring, giving gardeners the promise of scaring the squirrel out of his wits. Faux predators may have some limited effectiveness, but you must provide the animation they lack by moving them around every day. Ultrasonic noisemakers and motion sensor sprinklers may give squirrels a start, but rapidly decrease in effectiveness over time. As urban animals, squirrels have adapted to live alongside all kinds of noises and other stimuli.
Plant, Bulb, and Tree Protection
In wooded areas or those adjacent to parks, it becomes impossible to exclude squirrels, and in these places it makes more sense to protect individual plants from squirrel damage. It may seem like a lot of work, but as a bonus you will also be preventing damage from mice, voles, groundhogs, birds, rabbits, and deer.
Metal mesh cloches are ideal for young vegetable plants, especially leafy greens. You can buy handsome antique replicas, or create simple DIY cloches with chicken wire. Sink additional chicken wire over freshly planted bulbs to prevent digging. Aluminum flashing works well for wrapping tree trunks, and also prevents squirrels from running up trees. Paper bags will enable sunflowers to fully ripen without molestation. Old stockings or cheesecloth can prevent squirrels from one of their most infuriating practices: taking a single bite from a ripening tomato, and then abandoning the spoiled fruit.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-keep-squirrels-out-of-your-garden-417905
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-+794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 

image from Pinterest 

​Foggy here this morning.  Temperature at 62 with a high today of 73.  Looks like the next 10 days good for fall weather and no frost or low temperatures predicted.  I need to get plants into the greenhouse so hope my help can come. Stay safe with all the harvesting going on.
Always a question asked about in the spring, my lavender didn’t come back.  You can see by this article it will in zone 5.  Even though, USDA has us as a zone 5, it is still hard to keep over.  English lavender has a better chance with some ground cover.  Give it a try to winter over. 
HOW TO CARE FOR LAVENDER IN WINTER
OVERWINTERING LAVENDER INDOORS AND OUTDOORS By Robin Sweetser
Lavender grows best outdoors, but you can keep these aromatic gems alive through winter inside, too. Plus, lavender is not only pretty—its scent also brings a sense of calm to every room. Here are some lovely lavender varieties and advice on how to overwinter lavender.
IS LAVENDER A PERENNIAL OR ANNUAL?
A fragrant and colorful plant native to Europe and Western Asia, lavender is a sun-loving flower best grown outdoors. Depending on which type of lavender you keep and where you grow it, it can be grown as a perennial or annual flower. Generally speaking, if you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5 or warmer, you’ll be able to keep lavender as a perennial plant outdoors, as long as you grow the right type for your climate.
TYPES OF LAVENDER
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the most common species available, and is quite hardy. We grow a variety called ‘Hidcote’ that has dark purple flowers. Despite its name, this plant is not native to England; it stems from the warm, Mediterranean coast of Europe.
English lavender is hardy in Zones 5 and warmer, usually overwintering in the ground outside just fine without any added protection. In an open winter with no snow cover, we may pile a thin layer (1 to 2 inches) of straw or shredded leaves over them for added cover.
Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) and fringed or French lavender (L. dentata) are much more tender—hardy outdoors only in Zone 8 and warmer. They have to be moved indoors to survive the winter in colder zones. The good news is that lavenders are fairly compact plants that grow well in containers, which makes moving them between indoors and outdoors quite easy.
If you are re-potting them, don’t use too large a pot. Only give them an extra inch of soil around the root ball. Too much extra soil will just stay soggy, which these plants won’t tolerate. The soil does not have to be rich, either. Two parts potting soil with one part perlite or coarse sand will give them the quick draining conditions they need. To mimic the alkaline soil of the Mediterranean, add 1 teaspoon of lime to the bag of potting mix before using it in the lavenders’ pots.
HOW TO OVERWINTER LAVENDER INDOORS & OUTDOORS
As mentioned above, English lavender is winter-hardy to Zone 5 and may only need a bit of help in the form of a thin layer of straw. Otherwise, lavender shouldn’t need any extra care outdoors. Spanish and French lavenders, on the other hand, are only hardy to Zone 8, and will need to be brought indoors in colder areas.
During winter, the plants want to rest and will not produce much, if any, new growth. They are basically dormant from September until April.
While your lavender is indoors for winter, follow these practices:
Watering: They need less water in winter, too; wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before giving them a drink. Overwatering will rot the roots and means sure death.
 Lighting: Although they won’t be actively growing, these plants will still need a lot of light. If you lack a spot on a cool, bright windowsill, try using a grow-light to supplement the natural light.
 Temperature: During winter, lavenders like it cool but not drafty; the temperature can drop to as low as 40°F (5°C) at night and shouldn’t be warmer than 65°F (18°C) during the day. This means that you ought to keep them away from heaters that will dry them out and drafty windows that could chill them too much.
 Fertilizing: The plants may look a little sad, but do not fertilize them until new growth starts in the spring. Unused nutrients can build up in the soil and become toxic.
Even though your plant is resting, the foliage is still fragrant and will smell lovely when you brush against it. The relaxing, anti-depressant qualities of its aroma will be a welcome reminder of summer and help to get you through the long winter ahead.
Come spring, wait until your last spring frost has passed and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C) to plant lavender outdoors again. Also don’t forget to harden them off before exposing them to full sun and cool spring temperatures!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/lavender-winter-care
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

​PLANTS WITH SEEDS TO FEED THE BIRDS
GARDEN PLANTS WITH SEEDS BIRDS LOVE
By Robin Sweetser
Let’s not be in a hurry to cut down plants that have interesting seed heads in the fall. The birds fully appreciate having a smorgasbord of seeds to choose from and we love watching them! Listed here are 12 plants that have great seed heads for birds which I came across on my walk.
While bird feeders are always nice, wild birds like to forage for their own bird food. Plants with seed heads not only provide nourishment but also and nesting material. Leave them until spring.
Flower arrangers and florists also know the value of dried seed pods and berries for winter arrangements but instead of cutting them to bring indoors—and add to the clutter and dust catchers—I’ll just let them stand. It gives me an excuse to wander around the yard and see how they are doing.
12 PLANTS WITH SEED HEADS FOR BIRD AND WINTER INTEREST
Winterberry is the brightest draw in the garden at this time of year. It is a native American holly that is a favorite with migrating birds. I try to add another bush to my collection every fall when they go on sale.
Lunaria shakes its papery silver dollars in the slightest breeze. They are a little fragile and will end up as tattered wrecks by the New Year.
Crabapples seem to last the longest on the trees until the robins finally swoop in and eat them in early spring.
Clematis seedheads look like cheerleader pom-poms. I think they could have inspired some Dr. Seuss characters too!
Chinese paper lanterns are still fairly bright but eventually the papery covering will lose color and be reduced to just a skeleton.
Belamcanda is called the blackberry lily for its fat blackberry-like seeds. The stalks are sturdy enough to stand most of the winter unless a heavy wet snowfall takes them down early.
Nigella, also called love-in-a-mist, has a round seedpod that looks like a blowfish! An heirloom plant, its seeds were crushed and used to get rid of freckles. What’s so bad about freckles?
Teasel is another antique plant. It was grown commercially to be used for “teasing” or raising the nap on woolen cloth. My friend Jack was from Skaneateles New York which he claimed was the teasel capital of the world! I can’t help but think of him every time I see this plant. The prickly seedpods look lethal but birds are able to wrestle the seeds out from between the spikes.
Coneflowers have dropped their petals but the seed-laden central cones are still standing, much to the delight of the birds.
Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ has wide flat flowerheads that age in color from pink to burgundy to deep copper. They tend to be top-heavy especially when they have caught an inch or two of wet snow.
Agastache has the strongest architectural presence in the garden, still towering over me. Birds can perch on their bristly seedheads and chow down while keeping an bird’s eye view of the garden.
Asclepias tuberosa is a cousin to the common milkweed. It is only about 2 feet tall and forms smaller seedpods but they still break open when ripe to release their seeds to the wind.
Winter is on the doorstep. Time to take a walk on the seedy side and celebrate the seasons of nature.
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plants-seeds-feed-birds
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone  641-903-9365 

image from Pinterest 

     ​Good morning, it looks and feels like fall this morning. Temperature is only 62 degrees and it is cloudy out.  BUT sounds like it will change again as 80 degrees is in the forecast.  Stay safe as fall harvest is in full production. 
HOW TO CURE AND STORE ROOT VEGETABLES
BEST WAY TO KEEP ROOT VEGETABLES TO ENJOY ALL WINTER!
How do you store root vegetables so they remain in perfect condition throughout the winter? Here’s an article  on how to harvest, cure, and store potatoes, sweet potatoes, beets, carrots, parsnips, and all those roots to enjoy those stews, roasts, and comfort food during the cold months when little else is growing!
WHEN TO LIFT CARROTS AND PARSNIPS
Let’s start with carrots. They can actually be either lifted out of the ground when ready OR left in the ground to dig up when you need them during the winter months. Parsnips are the same, and actually improve in taste with a few frosts. And many beets or beetroot will happily sit through mild winters without fuss.
However, this assumes your soil drains nicely and can stay in the ground without risk of them going rotten.  In heavier, wet soils, there’s an increased risk of rotting.
But also there are plenty of reasons why you might want to lift and store your root vegetables. First, the longer you leave roots in the ground, the greater the risk of them getting riddled with holes from the likes of slugs, wireworm or rodents. And, of course, if your soil freezes solid for weeks at a time, pickaxing them out of the soil isn’t much fun either! So you’ll need to lift them.
HOW TO STORE ROOT VEGETABLES
Check over roots before storing and set aside any that are damaged or in any way imperfect to use up as soon as possible. Only intact roots of a good size should be stored. Begin by twisting off the foliage like this, then brush off any lumps of soil. The roots don’t need washing, just store them as they are.
You can store roots in any container that allows for a bit of ventilation. Sturdy cardboard boxes work well, or crates like this, with the lid left off. And laying them down for the winter couldn’t be simpler. Start with a layer of damp – but not wet – sand or old potting mix in the bottom of your container. Use whatever you have to hand – it just needs to keep the roots ever so slightly moist and protected from each other. Lay out your roots on top so they’re not touching, then add another layer of your damp packing material. Continue in layers like this until you get to the top, finishing with a layer of sand or potting mix. You could also use hay, straw, sawdust or a mix of any of the above.
Bear in mind that larger roots will store much better than thin or small roots, which can quickly dry out and turn rubbery. Smaller roots can always be sliced up then either frozen, dehydrated or perhaps canned. Store your roots in the cool and dark. You want it cool but frost-free, so a cellar or basement, outbuilding or some other vermin-free space is ideal. The back of my outbuilding is built into an earth bank, which helps to keep the temperature inside much steadier. It may help to raise boxes or sacks off the ground to keep them out of reach of rodents, or try storing them in metal bins. And if there is a risk of it getting below freezing, consider adding some extra insulation – more straw, scrunched up newspaper – anything held in place around your boxes of roots.
If you have a standard shed you could try creating a root vegetable store by securing insulation boards like this together to keep temperatures from either dropping or soaring too far. I’ve also seen makeshift stores made from old refrigerators or freezers, part-buried into the ground.
HOW TO HARVEST AND STORE POTATOES
To harvest potatoes, work methodically from the front of the row to the back, start digging well away from the centre of each plant then carefully – and I do mean carefully – work the fork in underneath to lift the whole plant and its tubers up from beneath. This way there’s a less chance of accidentally spearing a potato, though don’t be too hard on yourself if that does happen!
Instead of bagging or boxing the harvested spuds up immediately, leave them on the soil surface for a few hours so they can dry out. This way any lumps of soil will also come away easily with a light brush of the hand. Choosing a dry day with a light breeze will help them to dry out. These potatoes were grown in straw, so they’re very clean.
With them dried off you now have a couple of choices. My potatoes were bagged up into nets and hung up in the gloom of my outbuilding shed. We’re potato mad in this family – they’re great for homemade fries, which my daughter absolutely loves – so I’m not too worried about using them up in time, because I suspect this lot will be gone within about a month.
If you want to store your spuds for longer, take a little extra time to cure them properly first. Lay them out in a single layer, somewhere dark and well-ventilated so the skins can harden further. You could do this by laying them out in trays, with some burlap, hessian or other breathable fabric thrown over the top to exclude light. It will take up to 10 days for them to cure, after which they can be bagged up into dark, breathable sacks, such as paper, burlap or hessian potato sacks.
Again, store them in a cool environment with good air circulation. Check your stored produce every couple of weeks. Inspect boxes for signs of rot, such as a suspicious ooze or foul smell. Remove any roots that are on the turn immediately.
Get it right and you could be enjoying your homegrown roots well into next spring!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/how-cure-and-store-root-vegetables
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from coolestbalconies.com 

​Hi there, everyone.  I am getting better each day but have had a couple of hard nights.  The pain wakes me up on my hip and knee.  Don’t know if it is because I am walking outside more or what.  Hope it means I am getting stronger. Our weather has been awesome and doesn’t feel like Oct 5th.  I look at all the work to do outside and here I am not being able to do it.  I will call in the help to start moving succulents into the greenhouse and finish off unplanting plants.  How are you doing with your gardening?  I will have to soon think about ordering for next growing season and start all over again.  Enjoy this weather and stay safe.  Fall harvest in full here in North Central Iowa so all stay safe with that. 
Now we can be thinking about bringing plants indoors.  This article gives some good suggestions. 
HOW TO BRING OUTDOOR PLANTS INDOORS
LEARN HOW TO PROPERLY OVERWINTER PLANTS INSIDE  By Robin Sweetser
When frost threatens, it’s time to move many of your outside plants indoors. Many tender bulbs, annuals, herbs, and tropical plants will only survive the winter inside. Here’s advice on which plants to bring indoors this fall and how to winterize plants and pots.
WHEN TO BRING PLANTS INSIDE
True annuals and plants that we grow as annuals (considered tender perennials in southern regions) cannot survive cold winter temperatures. But there’s no need to say farewell to these plants forever! Many “annuals” can be brought inside, even tender plants that need a winter dormancy period. These should ideally come indoors before nighttime temperatures dip below 45°F (7°C). As fall approaches and night temperatures reach about 50°F (10°C), start bringing the plants inside for the winter.
Most tropical plants will suffer damage at temperatures below 40°F (4°C), a few even below 50°. You will need to act well in advance of any actual frost or freeze to acclimate them.
WHERE TO PUT PLANTS
Even though we have a greenhouse attached to the house that gets plenty of sun and the temperature in there doesn’t usually drop below 45°F, I still have a hard time finding room for everything. Luckily for me, many of these plants would undergo a dry period in their native lands and don’t mind being shoved under a bench to rest.
If you don’t have a greenhouse and have a lot of plants that need high humidity, think about creating a shelf or area to group these plants together. Some folks mist their indoor plants and—while this does help—it only lasts for a short period. A better long-term solution is the use of a pebble tray under your plants. Line the trays with waterproof material, add a layer of gravel, and place the pots on top. Keep the gravel moist. If you have hanging plants, perhaps you want to install some ceiling hooks. It’s also a good idea to clean your windows—both inside and out—to ensure that plants will get adequate light this winter.
WHICH PLANTS TO BRING INSIDE
You may need to make some choices about what’s worth keeping and bringing indoors. Which plants are your keepsakes? Which are the most expensive to replace? Also, keep only the healthy plants and not plants with disease or pest problems. Your indoor lighting will be important, too. In winter, even a west or south facing glassed area has only the winter light intensity of a shady area in the summer.
Plants which can be brought inside fall into two groups:
 
Plants that require a winter dormancy period.
Plants that can remain actively growing through the winter months.
Plants Requiring Winter Dormancy
Some tender bulbs require a “dormant” time in a cool place where the temperature is still well above freezing. Many of these bulbs are expensive and worth over wintering. Examples of tender bulbs are:
Caladiums
Calla lilies
Cannas
Dahlias
Elephant ears
Gladiolus
Tuber roses
For tender bulbs in pots, just stop watering them, cut off the dying foliage, and tuck them away in a dark, cool, spot. Check the soil moisture periodically.
For tender bulbs in the ground, dig them up and cut the foliage back. Brush off as much soil from the bulb as possible by hand. Place them in a warm, dry area for 7 to 14 days to dry. This removes excess moisture. Pack them loosely in a cardboard box or open container, separated by shredded newspaper or dry peat moss. Tuck away in a cold, dark place.  Pot them up in the spring about a month before you want to put them outside for a jump on the season.
Plants That Keep Growing in Winter
Many of my annuals, herbs, and tropical plants will keep growing through the winter and some will even reward me with a bloom or two. These will need a prime spot in the sun, but they don’t seem to mind the cool temperatures.
Coleus
Fibrous begonia
Fuchsia
Geranium (if given plenty of light)
Hibiscus
Cymbidium
Amaryllis
Agapanthus
Iresine
Mandevilla
Rosemary
It’s best to acclimate the plant to a lower lighting level for a few days before moving them fully indoors. For example, move a plant that’s in full sun outdoors to a shadier area outside. If your plants have been used to bright light, try to put them in similar light indoors, like a south window or under plant lights on a timer for 16 hours a day. Do not be too worried about leaf drop as the plants adjust to interior conditions; they will recover.
Also, if your plant needs some pruning to temporarily reduce its size, prune it before bringing it inside.
The fuchsia are a bit of a bug magnet, so I cut off their leaves and water the roots just enough to keep them living. In spring they will start up again with fresh new growth and be in bud when it is time to go back outside.
The cymbidium produces its first flower stalk as soon as we bring it in and will bloom for much of the winter.
We keep the geraniums blooming all winter as well, but if you lack a sunny place for them you can let them go dormant by cutting back by about half, putting a bag over the top and watering only if they begin to shrivel. Some people even remove them from their pot and hang the bare-root plants upside-down in a dark, cool place, spraying with water occasionally to keep them from shriveling up. Soak the bare roots in the spring for several hours to rehydrate them and then repot.
If a combination worked well and you want to repeat it again next year, take some cuttings.
GET RID OF PESTS
To make sure I’m not bringing in any unwanted visitors, I rinse all the leaves down with a vigorous spray of water and check the pots all over, especially under the rim, for bugs, slugs, cocoons, and egg masses.
As soon as they are observed, treat an infestation with an insecticidal soap or other insecticide labeled for these pests. I try to spray all the leaves down with a soapy spray made from 1 tsp. of non-detergent soap (I use Dr. Bronner’s liquid lavender mostly because it smells so good) mixed with water in a 1 qt. spray bottle. Spider mites have a 7 to 10 day life cycle so weekly spraying usually halts their growth. If I notice whiteflies, I’ll put up some yellow sticky cards to catch them. Don’t forget to spray under the lip of the container as well as the bottom of the container where insects can hide.
INDOOR PLANT CARE TIPS
Don’t over-water! This is the most common cause of death for indoor plants, which really don’t need much water in wintertime. Let the top 1/2 inch of the soil get dry to the touch before watering again. If in doubt, don’t water. Water succulents even less often, when the soil has been dry for several days. Don’t water in cloudy or rainy weather, as plants won’t get sufficient light indoors to dry out.
Plants require little, if any, fertilizer during the winter months due to lower light intensity levels. Fertilize in the spring, just before new growth begins.
 
You can save yourself a bundle by overwintering some of your expensive tropical plants. If you have more plants than window space allows, offer them to a gardening friend!
This pink mandevilla was given to me because it was too large for my friend to fit on a windowsill and she could not bear to throw it out.
TAKING CUTTINGS
Just to be on the safe side, I also take cuttings of some of my favorites—like the iresine, begonias, geraniums, impatiens, and coleus. All will root easily in water and make attractive houseplants.
If you lack space to store pots over the winter, cuttings are a wonderful and inexpensive way to create more plants.
To take a cutting:
Choose healthy shoots and trim them back about 2 to 3 inches just below a leaf node. Remove any lower leaves and flower buds.
Insert the cutting in a moisted rooting medium—such as coarse sand, vermiculite, or sterile potting mix (which typically contains both peat and perlite). Also, insert at least one leaf node below the medium surface. Tip: It is optional, but consider dipping the cutting in a rooting hormone prior to planting. It may help the odds of success.
Place the cutting in bright, indirect light. Maintain an even moisture level. Covering the container with a plastic hood or clear bag will reduce overall moisture loss.
Rooting typically takes one to three weeks, depending on the plant. Once the roots are well developed, you can transplant to a larger container.
MOVING PLANTS BACK OUTSIDE IN SPRING
In spring, your plants will start to send up new growth and you can drag those pots back into the sunlight and resume watering them. If needed, I will give them a new pot with fresh soil.
To be on the safe side, wait until after the last frost to move them back outside.
A FEW MORE WINTERIZING TIPS
Plastic and wooden containers can be left outside for the winter. Terracotta clay containers, however, may crack and should be brought inside.
Before the temperature drops to freezing (32°​​​​​​​F / 0°C), disconnect garden hoses from any outdoor faucets. Fully drain the hoses and screw the ends together to keep out any insects and debris. Then store them under the deck or in the garage.
Good tools are expensive! Spend the time to take care of them properly. Clean tools with a wire brush and sharpen the surfaces. Apply a coat of light oil or product such as WD-40 to metal surfaces. Wipe wooden handles with an all-purpose cleaner and apply a light coating of wood preservative. See how to care for and sharpen garden tools.
 
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-bring-outdoor-plants-indoors
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365