image from quoategram.com 

​Not much gardening to talk about today.  IT is just darn cold out.  Even with gloves on my hands got cold.  We had icy roads this morning, and with the sun we had it might have melted a little.  BUT now refreezing.  Blue, clear sky. 
If you have a fresh tree, remember to water every day.  If you have poinsettias remember to water ever other day.  Christmas cactus water when dry.  Tomorrow Dec 1st.  Here we go with all the extra work to do for Christmas.  Do what you can, and the rest will be ok.  I will post tomorrow about home remedies for cough relief.  LOTS of that coughing, colds, flu going around. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641+-794-3337  641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

At 8:30 AM this morning it is raining out.  Temperature is right at 33 degrees, the ground and roads are warm, so hopefully will not freeze.  Predicted temperature to stay above freezing till after 6:00. See what happens.  Low tonight of 18 and tomorrow a high of 26.  Stay safe. 
NOW I found this article very interesting about exercise.  All makes sense with what we do in the gardens, and in our homes.  What do you think?  Housework counts as exercise. 
​
Reframe how you define exercise.  By Margaret Boyles
Reframe how you define exercise, as it’s not just something to do in a gym. Once you get going, you’ll find exercise in surprising places!
Exercise isn’t about being in a gym. It’s about how you get your heart and lungs pumping, strengthen our muscles, and stretch everything out in the ordinary activities of everyday life (especially relevant now!).
Ironically, a lot of these opportunities fall under the heading of tasks, often ones we dread or put off doing!
Why should you care? Almost daily, some new study reveals another health benefit of regular exercise. Many experts call it the closest thing to a panacea for warding off or managing both physical and mental illnesses. (Watch: This Is Your Brain on Exercise.)
Reframing how we define exercise
Psychologists call bringing a new perspective “reframing” or “changing the narrative.”
Think of daily chores as workouts! Long before I started reframing many of my daily chores as workouts, I’d learned the essentials of aerobic fitness, strength, and flexibility well enough that I knew how to tailor the work at hand to adapt to my current abilities.
I learned those basics in black-iron weight-training gyms, by observing and asking questions of seasoned athletes, getting injured and rehabbing with physical therapy, training for triathlons, and, of course, reading many books and articles.
The cardinal rules for any exercise
Start slow. Work up to faster, heavier work gradually, over a period of days or weeks, especially if you’re out of shape.
Then, keep it up. Your body “detrains” quickly if you don’t require your muscles to move, lift, and stretch at their current capacity on a regular basis.
Mix it up.
Do 10 to 30 minutes of a job that requires what I call the grunt-work (lifting and hauling, moving heavy stuff around). Lift safely!
Then switch to some huff-’n’-puff work where you work up a sweat (rake leaves or mow the lawn fast).
Then finish off with some work that encourages stretching and bending (hanging laundry, weeding a garden).
Or, alternate the days on which you do various kinds of work. Too long, too hard, or too frequent a spell of a single activity may overwork some muscle-tendon systems, resulting in overuse injuries.
What counts as exercise in everyday life?
The answer: pretty much anything. Once you get going, you’ll find exercise in surprising places. For me, in my rural environment, I’d include:
Shoveling and spreading mulch around the gardens and berry bushes. A little strength work, a little huff-’n’-puff.
Pruning and hauling brush. Slow aerobics.
Buying groceries. Brisk 1,000 steps around the store, placing items in my cart as I go.
Running up and down stairs putting things away. In a three-story house with a basement, up with only a few items at a time, then down for more.
Splitting and stacking wood. Strength work. Need to have built upper body strength to begin.
Hanging laundry. Stretching and bending.
Mowing the lawn. Yes, a gas-fired power mower, but I take it fast, and our lawn has hills.
Raking leaves (also mopping floors). Put on the headphones and pick up the pace.
Planting/watering vegetables. Good opportunity for stretching.
Hoeing vegetables. Big garden lets me work up a sweat.
Shoveling snow. Grunt-and-groan or work-up-a-sweat work, depending on pace, how deep and heavy the snow is, etc.
Scrubbing floors and windows, vacuuming or sweeping floors.
Like most households, we already have the equipment and supplies required for the work: rakes, shovels, digging forks, pruning tools, hoes, weeders, wheelbarrows, brooms, mops, dusters, plenty of cleaning rags. Also, a few power tools: a vacuum cleaner and two rototillers.
Reframing your drudgework as exercise won’t win you the hero status you’d get from completing the Hawaii Ironman or hiking the entire Appalachian Trail. But hey, you may come to appreciate those once-dreaded tasks as you build a stronger, faster-moving, more flexible set of muscles while you’re at it.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/what-counts-exercise
Till next time this is  Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 

image from Pinterest

      It is starting to get a little colder and damp out this afternoon.  Temperature at 4:00 PM is at 43 degrees.  Tonight, the low is 32.  Tomorrow high is only 34 with rain and or snow coming in the morning.  Low tomorrow night will be 16.  I worked in the greenhouse today, and it wasn’t too bad.  BUT I look around and see all the work I need to do there.  ALWAYS something to do in greenhouse, home, bookwork for both businesses, church work including Sunday School.  Then being with the grandkids…..so I am not bored.  Hope all of you are getting ready for the next holiday.  I can’t believe it is Christmas season. 

I have been selling Russian Sage for years now but noticed it has gone down in popularity in the last few years.  If you are looking for a good landscape. It is starting to get a little colder and damp out this afternoon. 
 
Russian Sage
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Russian Sage
This eye-catching summer bloomer is a favorite for pollinators! Learn how to plant and grow Russian sage in your garden.
About Russian Sage
This lovely bluish-purple perennial was once in its own genus, Perovskia (named after a Russian general from the 1800s), but has more recently been put into the Salvia genus alongside other sages. Despite its common name, the plant is not native to Russia!  Russian sage grows 3 to 4 feet tall and produces purple-to-blue flowers from early summer to mid-fall. The textured gray-green leaves on silver-to-white stems are aromatic, producing a menthol-like scent when crushed.   Use Russian sage in the middle or back of a border where the silvery foliage and soft-colored flowers add a Mediterranean feel to the landscape. The plant is also perfect as a filler plant or for separating flowers with stronger colors.  
PLANTING
Plant Russian sage in full sun and in well-drained soil. Consistently wet soils should be avoided, as this drought-tolerant plant prefers to be kept on the drier side. Amend the planting site with compost or aged manure to improve drainage if necessary. 
When to Plant Russian Sage
Plant container-grown plants in early spring if possible, setting them at the same depth as they were in the pot. 
Russian sage can be grown from seed, but germination may take 1 to 4 months.
How to Plant Russian Sage
Space plants about 18 inches apart. 
Water regularly during the first growing season to establish the root system. 
Mulch with organic compost to protect in winter. 
Propagating Russian Sage 
A mature plant will send out runners. Remove runners with strong roots from the parent plant using sharp scissors. Replant the runners in small pots with potting soil. 
Take 3 to 4-inch long softwood cuttings from a stem or branch. 
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.  
Place the cutting in a pot with moist potting soil. 
Cover with clear plastic and place on a sunny windowsill. 
After a few weeks the cutting should be rooted. 
GROWING
Established plants will tolerate drought very well. Plants will rot if the soil is too moist. 
Young, unestablished plants may flop a bit but can be staked or planted near other plants that will support its tall flower stalks. 
Don’t cut back stems in the fall. Cut them down to about 1 foot in the spring. 
Mulch with organic compost when new growth begins in spring. 
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years. 
Prune new growth in early spring to about 10 inches above the soil to encourage thicker growth and more blooms.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
‘Blue Spire’ grows 2-3 feet tall and produces deep purple flowers in mid to late summer. 
‘Denim ‘n Lace’ has sky-blue flowers on 2 to 3-foot strong stems. 
‘Filigran’ reaches 2-3 feet tall and has bright blue flowers. 
Little Spire’ is only 2 feet tall with upright stems. Flower spikes are lavender-blue. 
‘Longin’ has 3 to 4-feet tall stiff stems with deep-blue flowers. 
HARVESTING
It’s easy to dry Russian sage! Cut off the long spikes when in full bloom, tie with a string and hang upside down for about a week until stems leaves and flowers are dry. 
Russian sage spires add sweet fragrance and style to fresh flower arrangements. Cut Russian sage stems in the morning and place in water. 
WIT AND WISDOM
The genus (Perovskia) was named c. 1840 after B. A. Perovski, a Turkestani governor of the Russian province of Orenburg. 
Russian sage is native to Central Asia and Tibet at elevations up to 8,000 feet. 
PESTS/DISEASES
Russian sage is naturally resistant to insect pests, although aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and leafhoppers can occasionally do damage.  
The plant is resistant to rabbits and deer. 
Stem or root rot can be a problem in wet soils.
COOKING NOTES
Russian sage is related to the culinary sage (Salvia), but it is best used as an ornamental plant and not recommended for cooking. The flowers are edible, however, and can be tossed in salads.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/russian-sage
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365      

image from quotesgram.com 

I know it is the day after Thanksgiving.  Larry and I hosted our family on Thanksgiving so time was spent in cleaning and cooking.  It went well. We had a great time.  My heart is still full.  Hope all of you had a Blessed Thanksgiving.  Here is a Thanksgiving Prayer I found for Gardeners.  Enjoy and stay safe. 
​
Gardeners' thanksgiving prayer 
Let us give thanks for a bounty of people:
For children who are our second planting, and though they grow like weeds and the wind
too soon blows them away, may they forgive us our cultivation and fondly remember
where their roots are;
For generous friends with hearts and smiles as bright as their blossoms;
For feisty friends as tart as apples;
For continuous friends, who, like scallions and cucumbers, keep reminding us that we've
had them;
For crotchety friends, as sour as rhubarb and as indestructible;
For handsome friends, who are as gorgeous as eggplants and as elegant as a row of corn,
and the other, plain as potatoes and as good for you;
For funny friends, who are as silly as Brussels Sprouts and as amusing as Jerusalem
Artichokes, and serious friends, as complex as cauliflowers and as intricate as onions;
For friends as unpretentious as cabbages, as subtle as summer squash, as persistent as
parsley, as delightful as dill, as endless as zucchini, and who, like parsnips, can be
counted on to see you through the winter;
For old friends, nodding like sunflowers in the evening-time, and young friends coming
on as fast as radishes;
For loving friends, who wind around us like tendrils and hold us, despite our blights,
wilts and witherings;
And finally, for those friends now gone, like gardens past that have been harvested, and
who fed us in their times that we might have life thereafter;
For all these we give thanks.
~ Reverend Max Coots 1928-2009
Reverend Max Coots passed away in 2009 after a long and full life. He served as the Minister Emeritus of the Unitarian Universalist Church in Canton, New York
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from chicagotribune.com 

      ​Clear Blue sky.  No wind.  Temperature at 8:00 AM is at 18 degrees but the  high today is near 40’s.  Tomorrow might be near 50’s.  For the next ten days, it looks like we will have our seasonable temperature which is 45 degrees.  How we will appreciate this temperature after having it so cold over the weekend.  If we went down to 40’s after being 60 we would think that is cold, but now going this way we say it is warm and nice out.  ALL I can say is enjoy.
 
How many of you do this?  I don’t see much covering of shrubs here in this area, so wonder how it works? 
How to cover shrubs in winter and other tips  by Robin Sweetser
Winter can be a season of extremes, but there are a few things that you can do to prepare and protect your shrubs and trees, such as wrapping a shrub in burlap. The weight of snow and ice can be crushing, breaking branches and even knocking some top heavy trees over. Trees with multiple leaders, clump formers, and upright evergreens are often victims. Try wrapping small trees or evergreens with burlap or other soft, breathable material (not solid plastic) to help them shed snow and ice. For larger trees, call in an arborist to shape the tree properly or cable branches in danger of being broken.  Be sure to use a breathable fabric to wrap your plants otherwise they’ll cook on a sunny day! 
Plan ahead and protect plant roots by making sure they have been well watered all season long. Moist soil is a better insulator of roots than dry soil, holding heat longer and cooling down slowly. Soil temps in winter are actually higher than the air temperature.  Lack of snow can actually be as much of a problem as too much. Snow is a great insulating blanket that protects roots. If snow is lacking, add some pine boughs around shallow-rooted plants to keep them from heaving. When used to cover low evergreens they can trap snow and prevent them from drying out. A great use for your old xmas tree!
Mulch is also a great insulator. Four to six inches of bark mulch, straw, or shredded leaves - especially when placed around newly planted trees or shrubs - keeps soil temperatures constant and prevents plants from heaving out of the ground due to cycles of freezing and thawing. Be sure to keep mulch 6 inches away from the trunk to discourage mice from nesting there and dining on the bark.
Sunscald can damage the bark on young trees and those with thin bark such as cherries, crabapples, plums, and maple trees to name a few. It is caused by direct sunlight heating the bark on a clear day to a point where the tissues near the surface wake up and become active. When the sun goes down and temperatures drop, the bark cools off so rapidly the tissue is killed, leaving dark sunken areas behind. To prevent this, wrap the trunks with a light-colored tree wrap tape or plastic tree guards. Just be sure to remove them in the spring to keep bugs from setting up a home behind them. When we first planted our mini-orchard we were advised to paint the trunks on the new trees with thinned down white latex paint to reflect the winter sun. It worked like a charm!
Desiccation occurs in evergreens when sunny days or wind cause the plants to transpire, losing moisture that they can’t replace when the ground is frozen. Along with making sure the plants were well watered all season long, you can lessen the impact of sun and wind by wrapping smaller evergreen shrubs with burlap. For larger plants try making a temporary screen from burlap to deflect the wind and block the sun. Anti-desiccant sprays have not proven to be very effective.
Deer, rabbits, and rodents damage or kill trees by eating bark, twigs, and branches. Discouraging rabbits and rodents from nesting near your trees and shrubs can be difficult. Be sure to keep vegetation short around the base of trees and remove brush piles where critters could hide. Wrap tree trunks with hardware cloth to keep them from girdling the trees. Deer require 8 foot tall fencing to keep them away from your precious plants. Every winter I struggle with a herd of deer who come to my yard when the snow cover is too deep for them to forage elsewhere. Any delicious plants, like the rhododendrons, that are not inside the fenced area are fair game! You can try repellents, anything that makes the plants smell or taste bad, but if they are hungry enough they will eat whatever they can find.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/protecting-your-trees-and-shrubs-winter
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from stock-free.org 

      Good morning, and it is a cold morning.  Temperature is at 17 degrees with a high today of 21 with a low of 13 tonight. THEN the weekend. Saturday high of 21 with a low of 6.  Our average daytime temperature is 40 degrees while at night it is 25 degrees.  So with this below normal average, sometime soon we will have above average temperatures for this to keep up with the average.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
​
It’s time for turkey trivia! Can turkeys fly? What’s a baby turkey called? Impress at the Thanksgiving table with these turkey facts!
Turkey Trivia
Are Turkeys Native to the Americas?
Yes, turkeys originated in the “New World.” Specifically, wild turkeys are native to Mexico. It’s a funny history. European explorers brought wild turkeys home with them in the early 1500s. The birds were domesticated in Europe and later brought to North America by English colonists. Note that domesticated turkeys have white-tipped tails; wild turkeys have dark-tipped tails.
Why Do Turkeys Gobble?
Only male turkeys, or toms, can make a call known as a “gobble,” and they mostly do it in the spring and fall. It is a mating call and attracts the hens. Wild turkeys gobble when they’re surprised by loud sounds and when they settle in for the night. The wild turkey can make at least 30 different calls!
Could the Turkey Have Been the National Bird?
Ben Franklin thought the turkey would be a better national symbol than the bald eagle. According to the Franklin Institute, he wrote in a letter to his daughter:
“For my own part, I wish the bald eagle had not been chosen as the representative of our country; he is a bird of bad moral character; he does not get his living honestly…like those among men who live by sharping and robbing…he is generally poor, and often very lousy. Besides, he is a rank coward; the little king-bird, not bigger than a sparrow, attacks him boldly and drives him out of the district…For in truth, the turkey is in comparison a much more respectable bird, and withal a true original native of America. Eagles have been found in all countries, but the turkey was peculiar to ours…”
How Much Turkey Does a Person Eat per Year?
The average person in the United States will eat 15 pounds of turkey this year.
What’s That Weird Wobbly Thing on a Turkey’s Neck?
The loose red skin attached to the underside of a turkey’s beak is called a wattle. When the male turkey is excited, especially during mating season, the wattle turns a scarlet red. The fleshy flap of skin that hangs over the gobbler’s beak is called a snood and also turns bright red when the bird is excited. The wobbly little thing on the turkey’s chest is the turkey’s beard and is made up of keratin bristles. Keratin is the same substance that forms hair and horns on other animals.
Is the Turkey Considered a Game Bird?
Yes, but the wild turkey is one of the more difficult game birds to hunt. It won’t be flushed out of the brush with a dog. Instead, hunters must try to attract it with different calls. Even with two seasons a year, only one in six hunters will get a wild turkey.
By the 1930s, almost all of the wild turkeys in the U.S. had been hunted. Today, thanks to conservation programs, there are plenty of wild turkeys—they even invade cities and suburbs!
Are Turkeys Named After Turkey, the Country?
When Europeans first encountered the wild turkey in Mexico, they incorrectly classified the bird as a type of guinea fowl called a turkey fowl.
It was Turkish traders who originally sold guinea fowl from Africa to European markets; Turkey has no native turkeys!
What Is a Baby Turkey Called? And What About Adult Turkeys?
A baby turkey is called a poult, chick, or even turklette. An adult male turkey is called a tom and a female is a hen.
How Big Do Turkeys Get?
The domestic tom can weigh up to 50 pounds, the domestic hen up to 16 pounds. The wild tom can weigh up to 20 pounds, the wild hen up to 12 pounds.
Can Turkeys Fly?
The wild turkey can fly! (It does, however, prefer to walk or run.) The domestic turkey is not an agile flyer, although the bird will perch in trees to stay safe from predators.
How Long Do Turkeys Live?
The average life span of a wild turkey is three or four years. It generally feeds on seeds, nuts, insects, and berries. The average life span of a domestic turkey, from birth to freezer, is 26 weeks. During this period of time, it will eat about 75 pounds of turkey feed.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/turkey-trivia
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  641-903-9365

image from Earth.com

Good morning, I saw a little sun light this morning, but now at 10:00 AM it is fully cloudy.  DARN….love the sun.  Temperature is at 24 degrees with wind chill feels like 19.  We are getting a taste of what winter will be.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
I was at the florist yesterday, and they were getting ready for a funeral.  Peace lily was being made up for them to take to the funeral home.  Very common for this, and it is a common house plant for you.  Here is some information about the Peace Lily. 
​
Peace lilies are one of the most common houseplants because they’re fairly easy to grow and are beautiful, too! They can be temperamental at times, but once you know how to care for them correctly, a peace lily makes for a lovely addition to any houseplant collection. Here’s everything you need to know about caring for a peace lily in your home.
About Peace Lilies
Peace lilies are tropical, evergreen plants that thrive on the forest floor, where they receive dappled sunlight and consistent moisture and humidity. Replicating these conditions in the home is the key to getting your peace lily to be happy and healthy.
With enough light, peace lilies produce white to off-white flowers starting in the early summer, continuing to bloom throughout the year in the right conditions.
Most household varieties of peace lily grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger outdoor cultivars can have leaves that reach up to 6 feet in height. Peace lilies are not cold-hardy plants, so they can only be grown outdoors in warm, humid climates (USDA Zones 10, 11).
Is the Peace Lily Plant Poisonous?
Yes, peace lilies are mildly toxic. All parts of the peace lily plant contain calcium oxalate—a substance that may cause stomach and respiratory irritation if ingested in large amounts. Keep peace lilies out of reach of small children and pets who might chew on the plant. Other common plants that contain calcium oxalate include philodendrons, daffodils, true lilies, and hyacinths.
PLANTING
How to Plant, Transplant, and Divide Peace Lilies
Use a well-draining, all-purpose potting soil. The soil should be able to hold moisture and dry out slowly over time. Peace lilies don’t like to dry out entirely, but they also won’t do well if kept in soil that’s constantly wet, as this fosters root rot fungus.
Repotting the plant every few years in the spring is good for the peace lily, as it will appreciate the refreshed soil.
Eventually, the peace lily may grow too large for its pot, at which point it can be divided. Remove the plant from its pot and split it into smaller plants, being sure to leave several leaves per clump. Peace lilies grow from rhizomes, so it can tolerate a bit of tough treatment during dividing.
Can Peace Lilies be Grown in Water?
Yes, peace lilies can grow in water alone; they are often sold in vases without any soil. Ideally, the base of the plant should be suspended above the water line, either by a specially-made vase insert or a layer of small river stones. This allows the roots to grow down into the water, but keeps the base of the plant and its leaves from being constantly wet, which can cause rot.
GROWING
Lighting
Ideally, keep peace lilies in a spot that gets bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is perfect, as the plant will be exposed to the bright morning sun. A north-facing window would also be a good choice for a peace lily.
Keep peace lilies out of areas where they’ll get direct sunlight all day (such as in a south-facing window), as it may dry them out too much.
Watering
When it comes to watering, consistency is key. Keep the soil lightly moist to the touch, but not overly saturated. Peace lilies can tolerate short periods of dry soil, but their leaves will start to develop brown tips if they don’t have enough water or humidity.
Tip: One nice thing about peace lilies is that they will tell you when they’re thirsty: the plant’s leaves start to droop. When the plant starts to look less “perky” than usual, test the soil with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water again.
Peace lilies are sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as fluoride, which may cause brown leaf tips. Use filtered, room-temperature water, if possible.
Humidity
Peace lilies enjoy high humidity. Misting their leaves or placing their pot atop a moistened tray of gravel can help to increase humidity around the plant.
Fertilizing
Peace lilies are not heavy feeders, so fertilize only occasionally. To encourage spring and summer growth, fertilize every 6 weeks or so with a balanced houseplant fertilizer starting in late winter.
Temperature
Peace lilies are a tropical plant, so keep them in temperatures above 60°F (16°C) and away from cold, drafty windows. They do best in temperatures upwards of 70°F (21°C).
Other Care
The large leaves of peace lilies tend to collect a lot of dust in the home. Gently wipe them down with a wet paper towel occasionally; a thick layer of dust can inhibit photosynthesis.
How to Get Peace Lilies to Flower
Most often, if no flowers are appearing, the plant is not getting enough light. Peace lilies are very tolerant of low light, but “low light” doesn’t mean no light! To encourage flowering, move the plant to a brighter location, where it will receive bright, indirect light for at least a few hours each day.
Green flowers, weak-looking flowers, or a general lack of flowers can also be caused by improper fertilizing. In the case of green flowers, cut back on fertilizing, as the plant may be getting too much nitrogen. In the case of weak-looking flowers or a lack of flowers, try switching to a fertilizer made for flowering plants. This type of fertilizer will have a higher amount of phosphorous, which plants need for blooming.
WIT AND WISDOM
The peace lily is said to have gotten its common name from its white flowers, which rise timidly above its green foliage and resemble white flags of peace.
Despite the peace lily’s common name, it is not related to true lilies at all.
The plant’s interesting blooms are also the source of its Latin name, Spathiphyllum, meaning “spathe-leaf.” The flowers consist of the spathe (the white, sheath-like leaf) and the spadix (the spike of small flowers located within the spathe).
PESTS/DISEASES
Brown leaf tips are commonly caused by excessive direct sunlight, over-fertilization, or lack of water and/or low humidity. Keeping the plant on a tray of moistened gravel or misting the leaves can help to increase humidity.
Yellow leaves may be caused by overwatering, underwatering, or old age (of the leaf). If the oldest leaves are yellowing and the plant hasn’t been repotted in a while, it may just need more space to stretch its roots.
Scale and mealybugs will happily take up residence on the plant, if given the opportunity. A thorough wipe-down of leaves with a dish soap and water solution or insecticidal soap can be effective at stopping them, though repeated applications may be necessary.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/peace-lilies
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from naturalon.com 

       ​     Well, we got snow on the roads and on the grass.  Looks like 3 inches on the grass but maybe the wind piled it up.  What did you get for snow?  It isn’t going to melt soon with the temperature now at 7:30 AM 23 degrees.  Even colder this weekend, with single digits.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
       I found this very interesting about the difference between herbs and spices.  DID you know?
What is the Difference Between Spices and Herbs?
Examples of Herbs Vs. Spices  by Melissa Spencer
Notice how we keep all our seasonings in a “spice cupboard” and don’t call it an “herbs and spice” cupboard? So, what is the difference between spices and herbs? It’s all about the parts of the plant! Read on to learn more about what’s in your spice cupboard—and how to best use herbs and spices in cooking.
Herbs and Spices come from different parts of the plant
An herb is the green, leafy part of the plant. Examples are basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, parsley, and oregano.
A spice can come from the root, stem, seed, fruit, flower or bark of the tree or plant. Examples are cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, star anise, and turmeric.
That said, a plant can be host to both an herb and spice at the same time!
The classic example is like cilantro and coriander. Cilantro is the aromatic leaf of the plant, Coriandrum sativum, while coriander is the seed that comes from that same plant.
Dill weed also produces seeds that are used as a spice while the leaves are used as an herb.
Whole spices will retain their flavor and potency significantly longer than herbs
Whole spices such as cinnamon sticks, allspice berries and cloves, to name a few, are whole and intact and not broken down or ground. These types of whole spices will keep their flavor and potency much longer than herbs or ground spices.
The moment that a spice or herb is ground, its surface area is increased and exposed to oxygen. Grinding releases the spices volatile oils and what is exposed to the air will begin to break down faster and lose its potency much faster.
That is why it is best to buy your spices whole, store correctly away from heat, light and air, and grind right before you use them.
How to Use Herbs and Spices in Cooking
Cooking with herbs and spices requires different methods.
Herbs, whether fresh or dried are more delicate in flavor and constitution than spices. First of all, herbs can be used fresh while spices are always used in their dried form. There are occasions when fresh herbs are preferred over dried herbs like in a basil pesto or using fresh parsley in a tabbouleh salad. When using dried herbs it is usually optimal to add them towards the end of cooking to maximize their flavor.
Spices on the other hand can withstand longer cooking times and often are enhanced by dry-roasting and being added early in the cooking process. 
Herbs and Spices grow in different climates and regions
Of the hundreds of spices that might fill up our spice cupboards, there are only a small handful that can claim they have originated in the Western Hemisphere. Allspice from Jamaica, Vanilla Bean from Mexico and Chile Peppers from America are three of the most popular and most influential in kitchens around the world. The majority of spices we use today grow in more tropical or subtropical regions like the Mediterranean, Southeast Asia and India.
Herbs, while also popular throughout the tropical regions can be grown in more temperate and often arid climates and are found in abundance throughout North America, Mexico and Central America.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/what-difference-between-spices-and-herbs
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  call 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest
​a peat bog 

     WOW…I know I didn’t tell you about the snow we had on Saturday morning.  I missed that one completely.  We had a snow covering as the ground was white.  Warm enough for the vehicles that the snow melted, but made for snow covered roads.  Taste of what is coming.  NOW I will tell you, we are to have snow tonight, snow on Tuesday and finish up on Wed.  Minnesota and far northern Iowa will have snow today, Monday.  Now they are saying 1-3 inches, but for each day.  I am confused if that means a total of 3 to 6 inches.  I will have to research that.
Larry and I finish up moving trees/shrubs into the east greenhouse yesterday.  Got the racks all in and cleaned off the cement area that was my garden for the camper.  GOOD afternoon for us to work together and got that done.  I have enough work in the greenhouse to work every afternoon.  Still have a couple of racks to unplant.  Plastic to sort, plants to order and succulents to take care of.  Work is never done for sure.  I use lots of peat moss  in growing plants I found this article very interesting. 
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Exploring Peat Moss Alternatives in the Garden  by Robin Sweetser
For years, gardeners have used peat-based soilless mixes to get those seeds off to a good start, but as with many aspects of gardening that are proving to not be sustainable or good for the planet, we need to give peat a second look. Many of us are trying out alternatives with good success. Learn more about peat and peat alternatives.
What Is Peat Moss?
Peat moss or “peat” is made of partially decayed plant material—usually mosses—that have been submerged without oxygen in wet, acidic conditions, like those found in a bog. The decaying process is very slow, taking up to 1,000 years to create a 36-inch layer of it! To harvest or mine it, the bogs are drained, and the peat is scraped off or vacuumed up.
Peat bogs are some of our largest carbon stores on the planet and store 30% of the world’s soil carbon. Harvesting it releases this CO2 into the atmosphere.
Historically, peat was cut by hand and dried to heat homes. Today, heavy equipment does the job.
Is Peat a Renewable Resource?
That’s a question of semantics. While some companies can technically say it’s renewable, we’d say it’s really not in a practical sense. Peat is the result of thousands of years of very particular natural processes and it’s virtually impossible to regenerate and replicate that sensitive habitat. It’s not unreasonable to ask whether it’s worth the destruction of one habitat (a massive carbon dioxide sink) for another (a few species of backyard plants), especially when there are alternatives today.
Peat Depletion in the U.K.
In the UK, peat was used for centuries as heating fuel and the bogs were drained and harvested mercilessly. Mining it has been incredible destructive. More recently, the bogs have been taken over by commercial interests and the peat is being burned in power plants. These regulated companies are trying to reclaim and replant the bogs, but Ireland has decided to ban the harvesting of peat and other UK countries are planning to follow suit.
U.S. Gets Peat From Canada
In North America we get our peat from Canada. The industry there is much younger and operates under strict governmental controls, which require them to replant and restore the water table in the drained areas. There are 280,000,000 acres of peatlands in Canada and about .03% of it has been harvested. Only about .05% of what is harvested goes to horticultural use.
Recreating a natural ecosystem such as a peatbog that has been destroyed by mining is like trying to restore an old growth forest. There are many factors to consider. Along with the mosses, other plants grow there and the bogs are habitat for many types of birds, amphibians, insects, and mammals. Bogs prevent flooding by soaking up extra water like a sponge, which they then release slowly during times of drought. A drained and dry peat bog can actually catch fire and burn underground for years, emitting even more carbon!
Alternatives to Peat as a Soil Conditioner
It’s hard not to use peat in some gardening projects. However, there are effective alternatives to using peat as a total soil amendment or conditioner. Simply switch to sustainable products such as compost—or, aged manure, leaf mold, biochar, cover crops, or green manure. If you need to loosen up your compost, mix in some wood chips, which will aid water and nutrient absorption. A small amount of gravel also works well. We guarantee that quality compost will achieve better results in terms of vigorous growth and more flowering. 
Alternatives to Peat for Potting Soils
In regards to substitutes for peat in potting soil and seed-starting mixtures, a number of different types of fibrous plant materials are being studied for their effectiveness, including rice hulls, bark, wood fiber, grasses, hemp, paper, and coconut coir. A recent research paper ranks pine bark as good as peat moss in seed germination trials!
Coconut Coir as a Peat Substitute
Speaking of coconut coir, a large farm in my area has been using coconut coir as a growing medium for years (Jane Presby of Dimond Hill Farm in Concord, NH). After many years of field growing all her crops, issues with climate change, soil pathogens, sterilizing containers, and weeds made her turn to high tunnels for a more environmentally-friendly way to grow things like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, and basil.
She found peat to be too inconsistent, sometimes being too heavy and wet, and other times being too light and dry. Now, she uses grow bags filled with fiber dust (which is very finely ground-up coconut coir pith) in the tunnels and runs driplines into each bag. Since she can plant them closely and train the plants to grow vertically, she reports getting ten times the yield that she got when growing in the field.
She loves the coir. “The roots grow great,” she says. “There are no road blocks for them.” Coir is a by-product of the coconut industry. Unlike acidic peat, it has a near neutral pH and is easy to moisten from a dehydrated state. It soaks up seven times its dry weight in water and is very slow to decompose. Hydroponic growers have been using it for years. The downside is that because coconuts are tropical, they are grown mostly in India, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines, so they have a long boat ride to get to North America.
Coir is made from the outer husk of the coconut, which is typically considered a waste product.
Make Your Own Peat-Free Mix
If you would like to try making your own coconut coir-based seed starting mix, here’s an easy recipe:
2 parts coconut coir (Use finely ground fiber dust if starting small seeds.)
1 part perlite to improve drainage and aid aeration
1 part vermiculite to lighten the mix and hold water
1 part compost if you wish. It is not necessary, especially if you want the mix to be totally soil-less. (We grow our healthiest plants in a compost-based seed starting mix. I think it is the magic ingredient for a happy transplant!)
Whether you choose to phase out peat from your garden or not is up to you, but it is good to know that there are alternatives out there that do the job more sustainably!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/peat-moss-alternatives
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 

image from florissa.com

     Temperature at 9:00 Am is at 57 degrees, high today in the 60’s. Rain tomorrow with a cold front coming thru, and then on Friday high only in the 30’s and that will be for the next 10 days.  Enjoy this warm weather as it is going to change. 
I have been unplanting bulbs, some of them tender, some are not.  I have been pleased on how they look, nice and firm, good color and good roots system.  I am putting them in the greenhouse for replanting next spring.  I have had the question how do I store the bulbs?  Good article tells you that.  GOOD LUCK!
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How to Store Bulbs Over Winter
Some Bulbs Need Extra Winter Care!  By Robin Sweetser
Some flower bulbs will not survive cold winters and need to be dug up and stored indoors over winter. Among these are cannas, elephant ears, gladiolus, tuberous begonias, dahlias, and other summer favorites. Many of these bulbs are expensive, yet they’re easy to keep, so it is worth it. Here’s how to store bulbs over winter.
What Are Tender Bulbs?
Unlike spring bulbs, your summer-flowering favorites all grow from a type of underground storage structure—be it a corm, tuber, rhizome, bulb, or root.
We call them all “tender bulbs” even if they’re not all technically bulbs. What they have in common is needing a little special treatment to save for the next growing season. The most important thing is to keep them dry and cool, and to not let them get too cold before or during storage.
By mid fall, many of us have had at least one light frost, so it is time to get those tender bulbs out of the garden and packed away for next season!
Which Tender Bulbs Need Winter Care
Popular tender bulbs that may need winter care include:
-Amaryllis (Hippeastrum, bulb): Hardy to zone 9 (Blooms indoors in winter)
-Caladium (Caladium sp., tuber): Hardy to zone 9
-Calla Lily (Calla sp., rhizome): Hardy to zone 7
-Canna Lily (Canna sp., rhizome): Hardy to zone 7
-Dahlia (Dahlia sp., tuberous root): Hardy to zone 8
-Elephant Ear (Alocasia sp., tuber): Hardy to zone 9
-Gladiolus (Gladiolus sp., corm): Hardy to zone 8
Overwintering Pots
I grow many of these as potted plants so that they can be easily overwintered by hauling them inside, cutting back the foliage, letting the pots dry out to simulate the dry season conditions of their native lands, and storing them out of the sun in a cool, dry spot where they will not freeze.
Digging and Lifting Flower Bulbs
If they are growing in the ground, they will need a few more steps to get them ready for their winter nap. Generally, they need to be dug after the foliage begins to die back, usually after first frost. Note:  If the foliage is killed by frost, the bulb needs to be dug within a few days to make sure rot doesn’t set in.
Dig carefully so as not to injure the bulbs. Wounds on the outside of bulbs may encourage rotting. A digging fork can be helpful (versus a shove).  Dig several inches away from the plant to avoid injury and then loosen the roots gently. Lift the clump.
Wash the soil off the bulbs with a gentle stream from the water hose, and put the bulbs in a warm, dry place to cure. Most need only 1 to 3 days of curing time before they can be packed away. Gladiolus and callas, however, need to cure or dry for about three weeks.
Storing Bulbs Over Winter
You’ll pack away your bulbs in a cool, dry place. An unheated garage that does not freeze can work well. Just keep in mind the ideal location has temperatures between 35 and 45ºF and relative humidity of about 50%.
You’ll pack the bulbs in a cardboard box (NOT an air-tight container) or some other type of ventilated container. Store bulbs between 2-inch layers of sand or sawdust, coir, or vermiculite. Ensure none of the bulbs are touching each other.
Here are some specific digging and storing tips for each plant:
Gladiolus: Don’t wash gladiolus corms with water before curing; let them dry in the sun for 1 to 2 days, cut the stems down to a few inches, brush off the soil, and put in a warm (60-70°F) airy spot out of the direct sun for 3 weeks to cure. Remove any leftover dried pieces of the flower stalk and snap the old “mother” corm off from the bottom of the new corm and discard it. Take the baby cormels off too, saving only those that are the size of a quarter or larger. You can keep the cormels to raise if you want. (They need 2-4 years of growth to reach flowering size.) Gladiolus corms need a dry, cool spot, around 40-45°F. We hang them up in the pantry in old mesh onion bags. If you think thrips may be a problem, soak the corms in a solution of 1 Tablespoon of Lysol to 1 gallon of water for about 6 hours in the spring, then plant right away.
 Callas are another that doesn’t need to be washed. Just dry the bulbs for about a week in a warm location, remove the old stems, brush off the loose soil, and pack in layers in slightly moist peat moss or vermiculite in a cardboard box or paper bag so they are not touching. Store at 45-55°F. Check for rotting or dehydration. If they start to shrivel, lightly moisten the packing material.
Dahlias: After washing the clumps, let them dry overnight and then pack away in slightly moist cedar chips or peat moss or in a black plastic bag with lots of holes punched in it. They should not dry out completely, but will rot if kept too wet. Store in a dark cool spot, around 50°F. Check them a few times over the winter for rotting or shriveling. Wait until spring to divide the clumps. Each piece needs to have a section of the stem attached where the buds for next year’s plant will form.
 Cannas don’t like to dry out completely either. Just dry the roots for 1-2 days to get most of the soil off. Like dahlias, pack in barely moist vermiculite, peat moss, or cedar chips and store at 40-50°F.
 Tuberous begonias are too pretty to lose to cold weather. Once the tops have died back, remove the dead stems, dig the tubers, and spread them out in a sunny dry place for about two weeks to cure. Store uncovered, in a single layer, at about 45-55°F.
 Caladiums like it a little warmer in winter storage. Remove the old foliage, dry the tubers in a warm location for about 1 week, then store in vermiculite or peat moss at 60°F.
 Colocasia and alocasia—the elephant ears—grow from huge (and often expensive) bulbs, so it is nice to be able to carry them over from season to season. They also prefer warmer storage temperatures. After the tops die back, dig them and leave them in the sun to dry for a few days. Brush off the soil and store in peat moss at about 70°F.
Check all the sleeping beauties a few times over the winter to be sure that none are rotting or dehydrating. Remove any that have spoiled to keep them from ruining the whole lot. If the packing material seems too wet, replace it with dry material. If they show signs of shriveling, mist them lightly. Like Goldilocks, they need it to be just right!
Taken fromhttps://www.almanac.com/how-store-bulbs-over-winter
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365