image from ag.ndsu.edu

      I can’t remember a nicer Halloween weekend or the day of Halloween.  We usually have cold, windy, rainy weather for the trick and treaters. Hard to believe that tomorrow is Nov. 1st.  With doing canning, and then going to Wyoming to see Jennifer, I haven’t been working in the greenhouse.  BUT this week, I need to get back to it.  I still have some unplanting to do.  Then sort out plastic.  We had some naughty coons get into the boxes that were all ready sorted.  They were looking for food, but just made a mess. 
How is your fall work getting your gardens ready for winter?  Nice weather to do it in, but this week, and then gets colder next week. 
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I have always wanted to do this to have tulip blooms in the winter.  For me it is where to keep the pots so they stay at 32 degrees.  I am going to work on that and see if I can make that happen.  It would be fun to have tulips in Feb. March.  Have you ever done this?
By National Gardening Association Editors
For those who can never get enough of tulips or can't wait until they spring up naturally in the garden, they can be forced indoors. To "force" a bulb means to create an environment where the bulb grows when it naturally wouldn't. By following these steps, you can buy tulip bulbs when they're available in fall and force them to bloom for the holidays or any time during the winter.
Tools and Materials
Clay or plastic pots
Soilless potting mix
Tulip bulbs
Hose or watering can
Choose the right varieties. In general, shorter-growing varieties such as the species Tulipa humilis (or the very similar T. puchella) are the easiest to force indoors. But 'Apricot Beauty' is a good example of a taller variety that forces well. Select large, firm bulbs, avoiding soft smaller-sized ones, and store them in a cool place until you're ready to force them.
Plant at the right time. You can start forcing tulips in October for blooms by Christmas, or later in fall for blooms by midwinter. Generally, tulips need at least 12 to 16 weeks to bloom if started in September or October, but only 8 to 10 weeks if started in December.
Tulips grow best in clay pots, which dry out faster than plastic pots. Choose a deeper pot for tall varieties, a shallower one for shorter kinds. Be sure the pots have drainage holes in the bottom. Partially fill the pot with moistened soilless potting mix.
Use as many bulbs as can fit in the pot without touching. The more in the pot, the more dramatic the flower show. Place the bulbs root end down so their tops sit just below the rim of the pot. Cover them with enough soil so that only the bulb noses are showing. Water well. Label with the variety and planting date.
Chill bulbs. Before tulips will sprout and produce flowers, they need a chilling period to simulate winter. Without this period, the bulbs won't grow or won't produce a good-quality flower. You can simulate winter by placing the potted bulbs at 32 degrees F to 50 degrees F in a dark area such as an unheated garage or basement. A refrigerator crisper works well, but never put them next to fruits such as apples that emit ethylene, a gas that hinders flowering. In warm areas, you can even leave them outdoors as long as the temperature doesn't go below freezing or above 50 degrees F . Just keep the pots moist. Depending on the variety and planting time, they'll need 8 to 16 weeks of chilling. Check the drainage holes for root development and look for bulb sprouts starting to grow as signs they've had enough chilling.
If you don't have room for all the planted pots, try placing the unplanted bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator crisper for six weeks (always without fruit in the refrigerator at the same time), then pot them and place them in a 55 degree F dark room for a month. Then bring them into a 65 degree F room to grow and flower.
Forcing bulbs to flower. Bring the chilled pots into a 50 degree F to 65 degree F room with bright, indirect light for about two weeks. The warmer the temperature, the shorter the flowering stems and faster the bulbs will flower. When the bulb shoots are 2 inches tall, move the pots to a sunny 68 degree F location. They'll flower within a week or so. The cooler the temperatures (60 degrees F is ideal at night), the longer the flowers will last.
Tips
Once tulips have finished flowering, you can throw them into the compost or cut back the flowering stem and let the leaves die back naturally.
To prevent the potting mix from leaching out the drainage hole when watering the container, place a piece of window screen in the base of the pot before adding the potting mix. This allows the water to drain but keeps the potting mix in the pot.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/1326/Forcing-Tulips-Indoors
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-+9365

image from yankeekitcen.com 

      Another awesome fall day.  CLEAR, BLUE sky with little wind yet.  Temperature is at 39 degrees but a high today of 62.  Another Indian Summer Fall day.  ENJOY is all I can say.  It is the end of October and all can change quickly.   It doesn’t look like next week it will change with the same temperatures as today. 
I had such good response about cinnamon, I thought I would find out about another herb.  I sell lots of sage plants in the spring, wonder if these gardeners will dry their sage for their food pantries.  You might consider it for next spring.  Here is how to dry sage, and it seems really easy. 
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HOW TO DRY SAGE  by Elle
Drying sage is a great way to preserve it, and rubbed sage is perfect for using in cooking. This article has all the details on how to dry and rub sage to prepare it for storage.
How to dry sage
Drying Sage
Sage leaves are mature from around 10 weeks after planting. They will have that typical fuzzy exterior and signature sage color.
You can gather leaves from the plant every week or so, as they mature, since the leaves are produced continuously for many weeks.  As a bonus, this encourages the plant to produce more leaves, and delays the flowering process.
Drying sage without heat
The intention of drying sage is to preserve it by removing the water, but without losing the natural oils that give it its flavor. Sage, like most herbs, is best dried naturally, without using artificial heat. This will help to retain the natural oils better.
Trying to dry herbs by raising the temperature (for example in the oven or microwave) may dry them quicker, but will lead to the natural oils that give the herb its flavor being lost. This defeats the purpose of drying them, since they will be useless for flavoring foods.
If you have a dehydrator then this can be used for drying sage, however it is not necessary. If you don’t have a dehydrator, there are two basic methods for drying sage:
Dry between sheets of paper or parchment
Dry hanging bunches
Drying sage on paper
Parchment paper is ideal for drying herbs the type of paper you use is important, coated baking papers or waxed papers will not work. Paper towels can also be used.
All you need to do is lay the sage leaves in a single layer between two sheets of parchment and leave undisturbed until they have fully dried out.
It is important that the air can circulate while the sage is drying, so don’t cover it with anything other than the parchment paper.
I normally dry sage in batches, using a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper, and another sheet of parchment on top.
When the sage has been spread on the drying paper, it needs to be placed in a warmish dry location until the water is gone from the leaves.
I find that high up in my kitchen is a good location, so I place the drying tray on top of my kitchen cupboards. It is warm all day long, though doesn’t get too hot. As a bonus because it is high up out of the way of our daily family chaos it is less likely to be disturbed!
How to dry sage bundles
If you have a lot of sage to dry then hanging it in bunches is a good technique to use.
All you need to do is cut sections of sage stem with 6 or so leaves, and tie it into small bunches of 4-6 stems with twine around the stalk. Then hang the bunches upside down in a warm dark place where they wont be disturbed. You can also place the bunch inside a paper bag to keep it dark if you don’t have a dark place where you can hang it.
I find up high in my pantry is an ideal spot. You will likely find that it takes a little longer to dry the sage using this method compared to the method above, but if you have more than one tray’s worth of sage to dry then using the method above isn’t really practical for most of us.
Making rubbed sage vs ground sage
Rubbed sage is small pieces of sage leaves, whereas ground sage is a fine powder.
How to make rubbed sage
Once the sage has dried out, the leaves should crumble easily, leaving the stalks behind. This is how you make rubbed sage – crumbling the dried leaves by rubbing them between your fingers to remove the stalks.
You can speed up the process by placing the dried sage leaves into a (dry) colander and rubbing the leaves against the bottom so that the rubbed sage falls through onto a clean tray or large bowl. You should just be left with the stalks in the colander, which can then be discarded.
How to make ground sage
If you want to make ground sage, once it has been rubbed and the stalks removed, transfer the sage into a mortar and use pestle to grind it down into a fine powder.
Storing dried sage
Dried sage should be stored in air tight containers such as glass jars, and kept in a cool dark place.
How to Dry Sage: Step-by-step guide
How to dry fresh sage.
Materials
1 bunch fresh sage
Tools
Scissors, shears or a knife
Large tray or baking sheet and baking parchment or paper towels OR
Garden twine or string
Instructions
Harvest the Sage and Prepare
Harvest the sage - cut the sage leaves when the leaves are mature. If you will dry the sage by hanging, cut the leaves with a long section of stalk attached.
Wash the sage thoroughly. Gently shake off excess water and pat dry with a paper towel.
Technique 1: Dry Sage on Paper
Prepare the drying surface - line a large tray, baking sheet or other flat surface with parchment paper or paper towels.
Spread sage leaves out in a single layer on the prepared drying surface.
Place another layer of parchment or paper towels over the sage.
Place the tray in a warm dry area where it will not be disturbed, and leave sage to dry.
Technique 2: Dry Bunches of Sage
Tie sage leaves into small bunches - take a small handful of sage leaves with the stalks in the same direction, and loop the twine tightly around the bunch a few times and secure with a knot.
Hang the bunches of sage in a warm dry are where they will not be disturbed, and leave to dry completely.
Collect and store dried thyme
It will take a few days for the sage to dry - after 5 days start to check daily to see when the leaves have lost all their moisture. When they are ready they will feel crunchy rather than bend.
When the sage leaves have completely dried out remove from the parchment, or remove the twine. The sage can now be rubbed to remove the stalks.
Place dried sage leaves in a dry colander over a large bowl. Rub the leaves against the bottom of the colander to allow the soft parts of the leaf to fall through into the bowl. Discard the stalks.
Store rubbed sage in an air tight jar or pot.  AND ENJOY…
Taken from https://www.thekitchenherbs.com/how-to-dry-sage
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from Reddit 

           Good morning on this Wed morning. I haven’t posted for a week, but we were in Powell, Wyoming visiting our daughter Jennifer and her family.  Had a great time, great visit and even had snow when we left Monday morning in the higher elevations.  We drove for about 20 miles in snow packed roads but then it was gone.  In Powell, they still had blooms and color as they haven’t had a hard freeze yet.  Grass was green, and the farmers were harvesting sugar beet.  Interesting to watch that process.  Has anyone around this area grown sugar beets?  I will need to research and see if we can.  They look like large beets just brown.  Now back to work, and the list for both Larry and I are long.  We had this warm weather when we were out in Wyoming, and now we have it when we are back.  I would say Indian Summer now.  ENJOY because we know what is coming. 
Interesting article about cinnamon….I love the scent of it for sure and it does make you think of fall.  I found it interesting to use for control of ants on the counter and in a sandbox.  Also it is from a plant which I find very interesting.  Bark of that plant...pine tree. 

Cinnamon is more than a delicious baking ingredient. It’s packs a surprising health punch, and is a natural tool in the garden. Learn more about cinnamon and where it came from—and its many benefits that will add some spice to your life!
Sure, pumpkin spice is super popular at this time of year, but what IS pumpkin spice?  Well, it’s mostly cinnamon. Sure, there’s ground ginger and clove, but the dominant flavor profile is cinnamon.
Whether it’s apples, squash, sweet potatoes, mulled cider or wine, cinnamon is essential. Its sweet and warming ways lend beautifully to the harvesttime. From cozy autumn dishes to flavorful savory dishes, cinnamon’s warmth just fits the season.
But did you know that not all cinnamon is created equal? The most common one found in U.S. grocery stores and probably in your spice cabinet is cassia cinnamon—which is quite mild compared to some of the other types.
4 Main Types of Cinnamon
While there are hundreds of types of cinnamon growing in the world, there are four primary varieties that are sold commercially. These are Ceylon, Cassia, Korintje, and Saigon cinnamon.
All kinds of cinnamon come from evergreen trees in the genus Cinnamomum. Cinnamon itself is derived from the bark of the tree. The bark is harvested from the tree and laid out to dry in the sun. It is during this drying process that the cinnamon takes on its signature scrolled form. The cinnamon is either sold like this, ground, or the lesser quality is turned into pieces. All of the varieties mentioned look quite similar with the same roll-like quill. However, upon closer feel and taste, their differences begin to emerge. 
Where Does Cinnamon Come From
Of the four varieties, there is only one “true cinnamon.” This is known as Ceylon cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum). It’s less common in the grocery store and can be found at a speciality store. It has a more fragrant scent. It is light brown in color with a taste that is sweet and mild with a note of citrus.
Ceylon is grown mostly in Sri Lanka and is commonly found in kitchens throughout Mexico, India, South Asia, and Latin America. The quills of Ceylon differ from that of the other varieties. Ceylon bark is brittle and therefore easily broken.
The remaining three cinnamon varieties all fall under the category of “cassia.” This is the more common (and relatively inexpensive) type of cinnamon and what would most likely be found ground in your spice cupboard for baking.
Cassia is known for its hard, thick, dark-red scroll or quill. The most common Cinnamomum cassia (C. aromaticum) originates from China is simply referenced as “Cassia.” The second variety, “Korintje” (C. burmannii) originates from Indonesia. Both have a subtle sweetness and fragrance to them.
The third cassia, commonly called “Saigon” (C. loureiroi), is grown in Vietnam and has the most intense flavor of all. It is something like a fireball with its surprising heat paired with a sweet note that is just amazing.
3 Health Benefits of Cinnamon
Cinnamon has long been studied for its effects on helping to regulate blood sugar levels in type 2 diabetes.
Additionally, cinnamon’s scent is from the essential oils in the bark, called cinnamaldehyde. This is an antioxidant compound which can reduce your risk of developing heart disease.
Finally, there is some evidence that cinnamon may help reduce cholesterol. Studies show that daily consumption not only led to lower blood sugar but also a “statistically significant” decrease in total cholesterol, as well as LDL, or bad cholesterol.
Note: While there are many studies and anecdotal evidence that point to cinnamon’s efficacy, the exact mechanism of action is still unclear.
The cassia cinnamons have a much higher level of coumarin—a blood thinner that studies show is toxic to the liver—than the Ceylon cinnamon. It’s not something most people need to worry about as the risk for damage with normal or even much higher than normal consumption of cassia cinnamon is negligible. However, if you have concerns it is always best to consult with your physician for medical advice.
3 Cinnamon Uses for Plants and Gardening
Cinnamon is also a natural way to deter pests in the home or garden, especially ants who wander into your house. Sprinkle the spice on any paths leading into your home (or greenhouse). Also, if you have a sandbox, mixing in cinnamon will keep ants away.
Use cinnamon with new cuttings to stimulate their roots. Cinnamon is an anti-fungal agent. Just roll the cut ends in cinnamon powder before setting in soil.
Finally, cinnamon’s anti-fungal powers are helpful when starting new seeds and growing seedlings. Mix with water in a spray bottle to spray the potting soil and plant stems where they meet the soil. It will keep mushrooms and any fungus away to avoid damping off disease.
Ways to Add Cinnamon to Your Daily Diet
Whether using cinnamon for the taste of it or the health of it, there are many varieties to choose from and there is no right or wrong way to use it. Keep a shaker of cinnamon on your stove as you might salt or pepper! Here are some ideas:
Coffee: We often enjoy adding a small Ceylon quill to the coffee grounds to infuse a hint of the sweet, fragrant cinnamon flavor.
Tea: Cinnamon tea with honey is another beverage that is delicious and can be served warm or iced.
Make a batch of Chai spice (cinnamon is the main ingredient in most recipes), and add 1/8 teaspoon to a cup of hot black tea.  Add a dash of milk, and/or sweeten to your taste.  Yum!
Savory dishes: In India and Asia, it is much more common to use cinnamon in savory dishes than we do here. Try adding a cinnamon quill to your next stew or broth. Or, try Mother’s Lemon-Baked Chicken.
Tomato sauce: A modest amount of cinnamon in tomato sauce can be an excellent addition; this is a classic Greek style.
Of course, cinnamon is wonderful in warm oatmeal or we love a cinnamon butter spread on morning toast.
Give some zip to a standard batch of brownies with the addition of a 2 to 3 tablespoons of cinnamon, 1 to 2 teaspoons of chili powder, and a dash (or more) of cayenne.
Enjoy classic autumnal baked goods like pumpkin pie, apple pie and sweet potato pie that just wouldn’t be the same without the sweet warmth of cinnamon.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/cinnamon-star-spice-fall-season
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from National Park Service 

      We had a great weekend for weather and Larry and I used it to get things ready for the next season “WINTER”  I emptied the last long rack.  I still need to unplant it, but the flats are in the greenhouse to do it where it will be warm.  I knew the next few days it will be cold with a wind chill.  All the tall racks are in the greenhouse, plus the pallet of potting dirt to use this winter. Larry got the poles up in the east greenhouse so the snow will keep the greenhouse up.  I told Larry lots of work for being closed.  BUT we need to do this so I can plant for next season.  Did all of you work outside this weekend?  Today the weather looking outside you would think it is great out.  Clear, blue sky but it is windy and the temperature is only at 34 degrees at 10:45 AM.  Next couple of day slow warm up.  BUT then Indian Summer?  This is the time in October when we have that.
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You can see if these 12 signs will mean a bad winter after we have had winter. 
12 Signs of a Bad Winter: Acorns, Onion Skins, and Weather Folklore  by James J. Garriss
The weather-predicting business is a tough one. According to folklore, all you have to do is look to the squirrels! Or measure the thickness of onion skins! Let’s have a look at some signs of a bad winter according to weather lore.
Squirrels gathering nuts in a flurry,
Will cause snow to gather in a hurry.
That make sense. If winter is going to be cold, better store up more food!  In addition, a tough winter is ahead if squirrels’ tails are very bushy. Even squirrel nesting patterns tell us how cold a winter will be. Nests higher in trees suggest a colder, snowier winter; nests that are located lower in trees suggest a more milder winter.
Birds and bees will give you some hints, too, if you observe closely. As with squirrels, when birds migrate early or bees build their nests high in the trees, the winter is going to be awful. The old saying goes:
See how high the hornets nest,
‘twill tell how high the snow will rest.
How about the woolly worms? Ever seen those fuzzy-wuzzy worms cross the road in autumn? The furry bands of brown and rust on a woolly caterpillar will tell you if the upcoming weather will be a cold one.
Trees and plants always give cues about rain and cold weather, if you observe closely. When leaves drop early, autumn and winter will be mild; but if they fall late, winter will be severe.
Then there are the onion skins! Folklore claims that thicker onion skins can signal a cold and snowy winter.
Onion’s skin very thin,
Mild winter coming in;
Onion’s skin thick and tough,
Coming winter cold and rough.
–Gardener’s Rhyme
Other signs of a bad winter are:
Thicker than normal corn husks indicate a harsh winter ahead.
Same with tough apple skins!
Flowers in bloom late in autumn indicate a bad winter.
Thick hair on a cow’s neck
Larger spider webs
Ants marching in a line
Plentiful berries and nuts (which might be why the squirrels are so busy!)
Weather Lore and Science Go Together
Some of these are based on old-fashioned observation. But some goes back to science.
Interestingly, weather folklore warning of a harsh winter is based on La Niña. So, it’s a little bit of art and science!
La Niña tends to be dry in summer and cold in winter, so if birds leave early, the leaves fall quickly, onions and apples are tough, and caterpillars are short, it may be due to the La Niña drought. A miserable La Niña winter will follow.
Other folklore is just based on the idea that you shouldn’t let your guard down. Lots of berries, nuts and flowers may be the sign of a lovely warm November. However, weatherwise, winter will probably be awful.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/signs-bad-winter-squirrels-onion-skins-and-other-folklore
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from Becky's Greenhouse 

      Good morning.  Temperature here at noon is at 46 degrees  cloudy with a blustery wind.  It feels really cold out.  High today of 55. I don’t know if it will.  Tonight, a low of 27.  Chance of showers.  Stay safe… we got the plastic walls up in the west  greenhouse so another step closer for getting ready for winter. I have a few carts I need to unplant and put tall carts back into the greenhouse.  Hope to get that done today.  I have one more long rack to unplant so will work on that Friday and the weekend.  When that is done, I have tons of transplanting of succulents and plants inside the greenhouse, but I do find that more rewarding than cleaning up and unplanting.  Yes, this greenhouse business is all year round even when I am not open.  I saw a lovely double rainbow when I was out and about yesterday.  Special to see that.  Now I have good luck with aloe vera plants.  I even had them bloom this early spring in the greenhouse.  If you have some you can make more when the plant has babies.  I don’t know how they got that name, but they are called pups.  Are your plants doing that?   
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How to Care for Aloe Vera Plants
The aloe vera plant is an easy, attractive succulent that makes for a great indoor companion. Aloe vera plants are useful, too, as the juice from their leaves can be used to relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Here’s how to grow and care for aloe vera plants in your home!
About Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is a succulent plant species of the genus Aloe. The plant is stemless or very short-stemmed with thick, greenish, fleshy leaves that fan out from the plant’s central stem. The margin of the leaf is serrated with small teeth.
Before you buy an aloe, note that you’ll need a location that offers bright, indirect sunlight (or artificial sunlight). Direct sunlight can dry out the plant too much and turn its fleshy leaves yellow, so you may need to water more often if your aloe lives in an especially sunny spot.
Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for periodic use.
WARNING: The gel from aloe vera leaves can be used topically, but should NOT be eaten by people or pets. It can cause unpleasant symptoms such as nausea or indigestion and may even be toxic in larger quantities.
PLANTING
Before Planting
It’s important to choose the right type of container. A pot made from terra-cotta or a similarly porous material is recommended, as it will allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings and will also be heavy enough to keep the plant from tipping over. A plastic or glazed pot may also be used, though these will hold more moisture.
When choosing a container, be sure to pick one that has at least one drainage hole in the bottom. This is key, as the hole will allow excess water to drain out. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting, which is easily the most common cause of death for this plant.
Select a container that’s about as wide as it is deep. If your aloe plant has a stem, choose a container that is deep enough for you to plant the entire stem under the soil.
Aloe vera plants are succulents, so use a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Do not use gardening soil. A good mix should contain perlite, lava rock, chunks of bark, or all three.
A layer of gravel, clay balls, or any other “drainage” material in the bottom of the pot is not necessary. This only takes up space that the roots could otherwise be using. A drainage hole is drainage enough!
(Optional) To encourage your aloe to put out new roots after planting, dust the stem of the plant with a rooting hormone powder. Rooting hormone can be found at a local garden center or hardware store, or bought online.
How to Plant (or Repot) an Aloe Vera Plant
If your aloe plant has grown leggy, has gotten too large, or simply needs an upgrade, it’s time to repot it. Here’s how:
Prepare your pot. After giving the new pot a quick rinse (or a good scrub, if it’s a pot you’ve used before) and letting it dry thoroughly, place a small piece of screen over the drainage hole; this will keep the soil from falling out the bottom and will allow water to drain properly. A doubled-up piece of paper towel or newspaper can also work in a pinch, though these will break down over time.
Prepare your plant. Remove the aloe vera plant from its current pot and brush away any excess dirt from the roots, being careful not to damage the roots.
If your plant has any pups, remove them now. (See the “Care” section of this page for instructions on removing and potting pups.)
If your plant has a very long, spindly stem that won’t fit in the pot, it is possible to trim the stem off partially. Note that this is risky and could kill the plant. To trim the stem: Cut off part of the stem, leaving as much as possible on the plant. Next, take the bare plant and place it in a warm area that gets indirect light. After several days, a callous will form over the wound. At this point, continue with the repotting instructions below.
Plant your plant. Fill the pot about a third of the way with a well-draining potting mix, then place your plant in the soil. Continue filling in soil around the plant, bearing in mind that you should leave at least 3/4 of an inch of space between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot. The bottom leaves of the aloe plant should rest just above the soil, too. Do not water after planting.
Ignore your plant (temporarily). After you’ve placed your aloe in its new pot, don’t water it for at least a week. This will decrease the chance of inducing rot and give the plant time to put out new roots. Until the plant seems to be rooted and happy, keep it in a warm place that receives bright but indirect light.
GROWING
How to Care for an Aloe Vera Plant
Lighting: Place in bright, indirect sunlight or artificial light. A western or southern window is ideal. Aloe that are kept in low light often grow leggy.
Temperature: Aloe vera do best in temperatures between 55 and 80°F (13 and 27°C). The temperatures of most homes and apartments are ideal. From May to September, you can bring your plant outdoors without any problems, but do bring it back inside in the evening if nights are cold.
Fertilizing: Fertilize sparingly (no more than once a month), and only in the spring and summer with a balanced houseplant formula mixed at 1/2 strength.
Repotting: Repot when root bound, following the instructions given in “Planting,” above.
Watering Aloe Vera
Watering is the most difficult part of keeping aloe vera healthy, but it’s certainly not rocket science! The aloe is a succulent plant that’s accustomed to arid environments, but its thick leaves still need sufficient water nonetheless.
Water aloe vera plants deeply, but infrequently. In other words, the soil should feel moist after watering, but should be allowed to dry out to some extent before you water again. If the soil stays overly wet, the plant’s roots can rot.
To ensure that you’re not overwatering your plant, allow the top third of potting soil to dry out between waterings. For example, if your plant is kept in 6 inches of potting soil, allow the top 2 inches to dry out before watering again. (Use your finger to test the dryness of the soil.)
Generally speaking, plan to water your aloe plant about every 2-3 weeks in the spring and summer and even more sparingly during the fall and winter. One rule of thumb for fall and winter watering is to roughly double the amount of time between waterings (as compared to your summer watering schedule). In other words, if you water every two weeks in summer, water every four weeks in winter.
When watering, some excess water may run out the bottom of the pot. Let the pot sit in this water so that the soil absorbs as much as possible. Wait 10-15 minutes, then dump any remaining water.
Removing & Replanting Aloe Vera Offsets (Pups)
Mature aloe vera plants often produce offsets—also known as plantlets, pups, or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant (a clone of the mother plant, technically).
Find where the offsets are attached to the mother plant and separate them using pruning shears, scissors, or a sharp knife. Leave at least an inch of stem on the offset.
Allow the offsets to sit out of soil for several days; this lets the offset form a callous over the cut, which helps to protect it from rot. Keep the offsets in a warm location with indirect light during this time.
Once the offsets have formed callouses, pot them in a standard succulent potting mix. The soil should be well-draining.
Put the newly-potted pups in a sunny location. Wait at least a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
How to Get Your Aloe Vera to Flower
Mature aloe vera plants occasionally produce a tall flower spike—called an inflorescence—from which dozens of tubular yellow or red blossoms appear. This certainly adds another level of interest to the already lovely aloe!
Unfortunately, a bloom is rarely achievable with aloes that are kept as houseplants, since the plant requires nearly ideal conditions to produce flowers: lots of light, sufficient water, and the right temperature range. Due to these requirements (mainly lighting), aloe flowers are usually only seen on plants grown outdoors year-round in warm climates. 
To give your aloe the best shot at flowering:
Provide it with as much light as possible, especially during spring and summer. Aloes can be kept outdoors in full sun during the summer, when temperatures are above 70°F (21°C). If nighttime temps threaten to drop below 60°F (16°C), bring the aloe inside.
Note: Don’t move your aloe from indoors to full sun right away; it needs time to adjust to the intense light or it may sunburn. Allow it to sit in partial shade for about a week before moving it to a brighter location.
Make sure the plant is getting the right amount of water—enough to keep it from drying out completely, but not enough to drown it! If the plant’s being kept outdoors, make sure that it’s not getting consistently soaked by summer rains.
Give your aloe a proper dormancy period in the fall and winter. Aloe tend to bloom in late winter or early spring, so giving them a period of rest consisting of less frequent watering and cooler temperatures may encourage them to flower.
Don’t be surprised if it still doesn’t flower. Despite our best efforts, indoor conditions just aren’t ideal for most aloes, so don’t be surprised if yours simply refuses to bloom!
HARVESTING
Aloe Vera Gel
To make use of the aloe vera plant’s soothing properties, remove a mature leaf from the plant and cut it lengthwise. Squeeze the gel out of the leaf and apply it to your burn, or simply lay the opened leaf gel-side–down on top of the affected area. Learn more about aloe vera’s healing properties.
Do not ingest the gel, as it can cause nausea and other unpleasant symptoms.
WIT AND WISDOM
Aloe vera will decorate a kitchen shelf with quiet grace while doing double duty as a self-regenerating first-aid kit. One of aloe’s most famous uses is to soothe sunburnt skin, and it can be also used for cold sores.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are most susceptible to the usual indoor plant pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Common diseases include:
Root rot
Soft rot
Fungal stem rot
Leaf rot
Avoid overwatering to keep these conditions from developing or worsening.
Taken fromhttps://www.almanac.com/plant/aloe-vera
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell  641-903-9365

image from YouTube 

      Cool morning, but not as cool as tomorrow morning.  28 for Saturday morning.  Today high of 50 while tonight it will be a killing frost.  I have one more area to finish up to move, clean up and put away for the season.  I have lots of cherry tomatoes to pick.  So what do I do?  Do I take that pot of cherry tomatoes into the greenhouse to see if they will continue to bear fruit?  I will let you know what I decide to do.   Enjoy this fall day.  Cold tomorrow but it will warm up it looks like for the next 7 days.  Stay safe. 

Dahlias as Cut Flowers
The more you cut dahlias, the more they’ll bloom—and dahlias are beautiful in a vase. For a bouquet, cut stems in the morning before the heat of the day and put them into a bucket of cool water. Remove stems’ bottom leaves and place the flowers into a vase of water. Place the vase in a cool spot and out of direct sun. Check the water daily. The bouquet should last about a week.
Digging and Storing Dahlias for Winter
Unless you live in a warmer region (USDA Hardiness Zone 8 or warmer), you’ll have to dig up dahlias in late fall. Native to Mexico, Dahlias won’t survive freezing temperatures. Digging and storing dahlias is extremely easy and simple, and will save you the money that would otherwise go into buying new ones each year.
Gardeners north of Zone 8 are advised to lift and store the tuberous roots during winter.
Some Zone 7 growers claim that dahlias will survive winter in the ground if the weather isn’t too severe, but this is risky. They will not survive freezing temperatures. In Zone 6 or colder, plan to dig them up.
Wait to dig up dahlia tubers until the top growth dies back or is killed by the first hard frost. See your fall frost dates for an idea of when frost usually arrives in your area.
Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost. Take it as a warning to begin digging up (lifting) dahlias. Complete the task before a hard frost.
Delay cutting dahlia stems until right before digging, because the stems are hollow and can collect water, which in turn promotes crown rot and tuber decay.
Cut off blackened foliage, leaving 2 to 4 inches of top growth.
Carefully dig around tubers with a pitchfork, garden fork, or shovel. Avoid damaging them. The “neck” on dahlia tubers is delicate and can be easily damaged while digging.
Lift the clump and gently shake off the soil. Or, swish them around in a tub of water or use a garden hose to wash away any clumps of soil. Soil contains microorganisms that can cause decay in storage, so it’s best to remove as much as possible.
Cut off rotten tubers.
How to Store Dahlias in Winter
After being dug up, the dahlia tubers then need to be allowed to dry and cure. Leave the clumps outside in the sun upside down to dry naturally for a few days. Or, place the dahlias in a well-ventilated area with a constant temperature between 60°F and 70°F and out of direct sunlight.
When dry, pack them in loose, fluffy material, such as vermiculite, dry sand Styrofoam peanuts, or wood shavings, all of which work. Place tubers inside plastic bags or cardboard boxes filled with material that maintains moisture around the tubers but allows air flow. Cover them with more storage medium before placing them in a cool storage spot.
Store in a well-ventilated, frost-free space: 40º to 45ºF is ideal, 35º to 50ºF is acceptable.
Tuber clumps can either be left intact for the winter and divided in the spring, or they can be divided in the fall. Some gardeners find that it is easier to divide in the fall, and divisions are more convenient to store.
Check on the dahlia tubers occasionally over the winter. Remove any tubers that have started to rot before the decay spreads to healthy tubers.
Readying for Summer
In spring, separate healthy tubers from the parent clump and discard wrinkled or rotten ones. Plan to plant the survivors.
Each tuber must have at least one “eye” or piece of the crown attached or it will not develop into a blooming plant. The eyes are little pink bumps at the base of the stem.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/dahlias
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from fin-radom.com 

      Looks like another great fall day till tomorrow morning.  We are predicted to have the temperature as low as 29 so that is a hard freeze.  I have one more area to clean up and move in.  I will show pictures of that area tomorrow as it looks nice and green and full yet.  Temperature at 8:00 Am is at 52 degrees with a high of 63.  I am confused as the weather site I looked at said low of 36, but Saturday morning it will be 29 degrees.  I will play it safe and have the last area cleaned up.  What have you noticed the low temperature will be?  Enjoy today and stay safe.
I am just putting in from this guide the fall to winterizing them and prune your roses. 
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Winterizing Roses
In the fall, shorten the extra-tall canes to 30 inches to reduce damage from winter winds (which can loosen and damage roots).
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. Collect any inflected leaves that have fallen to the ground. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea, too.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first fall frost but continue watering during dry fall weather to help keep plants healthy during a dry winter.
Add mulch or compost around the roses after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves (don’t use maple leaves for mulch, as they can promote mold growth).
Pruning Roses
In North America, repeat blooming roses such as floribunda and hybrid tea roses need a heavy annual pruning that is done in the spring when plants begin to leaf out for the new season. (Roses are often not the earliest plants in the garden to respond to spring’s warming temperatures, so be patient.) Give the plant time to show its leaf buds then prune above that level.
 But do not prune old-fashioned roses and climbers in spring. they bloom on wood from the previous year’s growth. Prune in the late summer immediately after flowering.
At any time of the year, remove dead, diseased or damaged wood and remove diseased foliage
 When you prune, wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
 Use sharp pruning shears for smaller growth. For growth more than a half an inch thick, use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears. A small pruning saw is handy for large and heavy, old stems, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
 Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground. In general, cutting back hard promotes stronger growth.
 When you prune, start by removing all stems that are crossing, rubbing against each other, damaged, discolored, or competing for space. Leave only the most vigorous, healthy canes. When pruning, check to make sure the stems show no sign of discoloration.
 Prune 1/4-inch above an outward-facing bud to prevent compacted growth. Cut at an angle. Any cuts you make that are greater than the thickness of a pencil should be sealed with nail polish or wood glue to prevent cane borers from entering.
 Not all types of roses are pruned the same way or at the same time of year. Learn more here: How to Prune Roses.
Taken from tps://www.almanac.com/plant/roses
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image from georgeweigel.net 

      I just noticed I had down October 2nd on Monday and it was the 3rd.  HOW many of you caught that? Another great fall day.  The weather will get cooler, so enjoy what we have now.  Putting things away, cleaning up in the greenhouse are still on my list.  Other years I have had to have help to do this, but with my new joints and no pain, I am able to do it myself.  Just I do get tired, so need to rest.  NOW would that be age?  ALL of you enjoy and stay safe.
Here is the first perennial I planted in our front yard in 1984…autumn joy sedum.  Sedums are in the succulent family, but are very hardy and easy to grow.  I know many of you have them in your gardens.  Do you noticed that the pollinators like them too?  Here is some information about them.
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How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Sedum Flowers
Sedums have it all! This perennial plant has succulent green foliage and produces clusters of star-shaped flowers that bloom from midsummer to fall. It’s easy to care for and beloved by pollinators, too! Here’s how to grow sedum in your garden.
About Sedum
Perennial plants don’t get much easier than Sedum, a genus of succulents with fleshy stems and succulent leaves—also called “stonecrop.” A hardy plant that grows well in shallow soil, this is a sedum variety for almost every garden.
We like to divide sedum into two main categories based on the plants’ growth habits: low-growing sedum and upright sedum.
Low–growing sedum spreads along the ground, reaching only a few inches (or less) in height. This makes them perfect for use as a ground cover along paths, in rock gardens, or cascading down a stone wall.
 Tall or upright sedum tends to form tall, upright clumps that produce large flower heads in tight masses of tiny reddish-pink flowers. Their height and attractive flowers make them good candidates for border gardens or pollinator gardens. A few years ago, upright sedum was reclassified to another genus, Hylotelephium, but it is still commonly referred to as a “sedum.”
PLANTING
Sedum enjoy full sun, but will tolerate some shade. If growing sedum in an area that gets long, cold winters (Zone 5 and colder), plant in full sun to improve overwintering capability.
Sedum grows well in poor or sandy soil, but it’s important to have well-drained soil to avoid fungal diseases. It is very susceptible to root rot if grown in soil that holds too much moisture. Overly-rich soil can also encourage leggy growth, which can result in upright sedum varieties becoming top heavy when they bloom.
When to Plant Sedum
Sedum is usually bought in plugs or pots and transplanted into the garden. The best time to plant sedum is in the spring—after the threat of frost but before the heat of summer kicks in.
Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
How to Plant Sedum
Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety. Low-growing sedums will readily spread to fill any gaps, while upright sedums tend to stay more compact.
Planting full plants or divisions: Dig a hole deep enough so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface of the soil, then place the plant in the hole and fill in around it. Be careful not to bury the stems of upright sedum especially, as this can lead to rot.
Planting cuttings: Like other succulents, sedum can be readily propagated via cuttings. Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
GROWING
Once established, sedum plants require little care. During the summer, check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water (sparingly) if needed. As long as your area gets rain every couple of weeks at the least, sedum shouldn’t need any extra watering.
After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area.
Tip: For added winter interest, leave the flowers of upright sedum alone after they bloom. They will form attractive seed heads.
Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Sedum humifusum makes for a great ground cover and has beautiful, bright yellow flowers
‘Brilliant’, ‘Autumn Fire’, and ‘Autumn Joy’ upright sedum (Hylotelephium spectabile, aka Sedum spectabile) add bursts of bright pink and magenta to your garden
‘Blue Spruce’ (Sedum reflexum) is a low-growing sedum with blue-green, spruce-like foliage and yellow flowers
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs
Scale insects
Slugs
Snails
Birds, deer, squirrels, and voles may nibble on the succulent foliage of sedum.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/sedum
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from CGlAR.com 

     Monday October 2nd.  I can’t believe it is October.  I will continue to move plants and work on cleaning up the plants and greenhouse.  Hopefully I can get most of that done this week, as it sounds like it is going to get colder. 
I was talking to some young men, and they just went to a soil testing contest for FFA.  In conversation, I wanted to know what that meant, so found this article about testing our gardens and what we can do in the fall to improve them.  Small scale in the garden but same topics as our young men are learning about farming.  I am always learning as they are too.  Maybe give you some ideas what to do with your garden for next year. 
​
How to improve soil quality in the fall  by Robin Sweetser
Healthy soil means healthy plants and FALL is the best time to feed your garden soil—before winter sets in. Here’s why fall is the best time to improve soil and what to do this fall to build healthy garden soil!
We’ll let you in on a little secret that it take many gardeners a few years to figure out: Soil is the bedrock of any successful garden and fall is the best time for soil-build for next season.
Add Organic Matter
Remember soil is not dirt. Soil is live organic matter teeming with microbial life!
Organic matter can be in the form of compost, manure, fallen leaves, or a cover crop, which we’ll discuss more below. Isn’t it convenient that nature gives us all those autumn leaves at the end of our harvest season? This is why fall is such a good time to add nutrients back to the soil.
Adding organic materials in the fall allows time for them to decompose and break down over the winter. Soil high in organic matter releases a reservoir of nutrients that are slowly released over time, which improves root growth and biological activity.
Reconsider Tilling in the Fall
If you have a small garden or a raised garden bed, consider leaving the soil left untilled. All that tilling does is disrupt soil structure, create more erosion, and kill earthworms.
For a small garden, simply dig by hand to remove any weeds, old plants, and debris.
Then add organic matter but simply add a layer on top and you can turn the soil lightly with a garden fork to mix it in.
Now, if you have a large garden, digging up all your weeds and old plants may simply be too much work. In this case, add organic matter before you till, and then consider covering the soil with some form of mulch to avoid erosion.
Cover the Garden
How often do you see bare soil in nature? Not very often. And there’s a good reason for this. Bare soil is easily eroded by wind, rain, snow, and weather elements—washing away all the nutrients.
In the garden, covering the soil during wintertime offers a number of benefits. It gives weeds a tougher time of it. By using organic matter such as compost or manure or leaves, you’re gradually feeding the soil—specifically, the life within the soil. This, in turn, feeds the crops you grow in it.
So, what’s the best way to build the best possible soil? You don’t needn’t to buy expensive soil amendments; much of the way you improve the soil is free or very cheap.
Here are a few ways to both cover and feed the garden.
1. Compost or manure:
You should be composting almost everything: kitchen scraps, pruning, leaves, cardboard, grass clippings. It’s free! Once you add a good mix of ingredient, you’ll get a lovely compost which is a powerhouse in the garden.
Manure is fantastic as well, but it has to be from a trusted source. You don’t want it contaminated with herbicides which could pass through a horse or cow and inflict damage on your crops.
Add compost or aged manure about an inch deep across your bed to keep the soil covered over winter, weeds suppressed, and worms busy. The worms will drag it down to the soil so the microbes can work on it, too, releasing all those nutrients in time, and feeding your crop for next spring.
You can transport manure in the back of your car; if it’s fresh, stack it someplace for about a year because fresh manure is too strong for most plants.
2. Fall leaves, grass clippings, or wood chips
You can also make use of readily-available organic materials that haven’t rotted down, especially those autumn leaves! Just spread the out onto beds! Learn more about using leaves.
Or, spread wood chips around fruit bushes and it will keep weeds down as well as slowly release nutrients to feed your plants.
By the way, let’s dispel a myth. Wood chips do not rob the soil of nitrogen. Left on the surface, they create nothing but goodness, similar to a woodland floor.  When you wish to plant, just push the wood chips aside.
3. Field Bean Cover Crop
Another way to build soil is to seed a cover crop which will break down and add vital nutrients and organic matter to your soil. Cover crops also prevent erosion and suppress weeds.  One crop you can always plant is super super hardy field beans. Bury the seeds a couple inches into the soil and they’ll grow until spring. You’ll end up cutting them down BEFORE they produce pods so that they can focus on fixing nitrogen from the air for their roots. When you chop them down, you can put the top growth into the compost heap for a full cycle of soil health!
Other examples of cover crops are winter wheat, winter rye, and annual ryegrass. Seed those cover crops are seeded in fall about 6 weeks before the first expected fall frost date. To plant, you clean up any remaining crops and plant degree. Use a garden spreader to broadcast the seed, lightly cover it with soil, and water. Let the cover crop grow until early spring, then till it under. Wait a few weeks after tilling before planting.
Get a Soil Test
How do you know if your soil has the right amount of nutrients for excellent plant growth? If you’ve never tested your soil, we recommend a basic soil test every 3 to 5 years. Before you spend all that time growing food, it’s worth finding out if your soil is lacking the right nutrients or perfectly fine!
Soil testing services are offered for free or a small fee by most state university extension services. It only takes a few minutes to take a representative soil sample and send it off.  See how to take a soil test and a list of Cooperative Extension Services to call about a soil test kit.
Or, see three of my simple DIY soil tests for a quick and dirty evaluation of your soil.
The soil test service will also give you not only the results but alo recommendations and solutions with suggested materials to add to your soil.|
For example, you may need to adjust the soil pH (the soil’s acidity/alkalinity). A proper pH is important for nutrient availability to plants. Most vegetables grow best in soils that are slightly acid, falling between the 6.0 and 7.0 range on the pH scale. Add lime if you need to raise the pH and sulfur to lower it to within these levels. (NOTE: Do not just add lime or sulfur without knowing your pH. This would be detrimental to your plants.) Since we burn wood, we usually use them instead of lime to sweeten the soil.
A basic soil test usually measures phosphorus, potassium, soil pH, and organic matter. It can take years to get the levels of pH, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus in garden soil up to the optimum levels. See more about NPK Ratios And What This Means.
Happiness is a positive soil test, one that lets you know that you have been doing something right. This year in our garden, we got the best soil test results ever! Everything is in the optimal to high range meaning we can ease off on applying amendments. I’m glad to have this report from the extension service to go by since too much of a good thing can do more harm than good.
The only recommendations from my latest soil test were to:
Nitrogen: Spread 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet using either 33 pounds of soybean meal or 15 pounds of dried blood. I’ll stick to the soybean meal since the idea of dried blood makes me squeamish!
Potassium: To maintain the perfect potassium level they recommend using 14 pounds of Sul-Po-Mag to supply 3 pounds of potassium per 1,000 square feet.
Phosphorus: Absolutely no extra phosphorus is needed so any commercial fertilizer mix should have 0 for its middle number.
As mentioned above, manure and compost are excellent sources of nutrients but I might skip the free goat manure this spring and just use our home-made compost since the amount of organic matter in our soil also tested in the high range.
I’m very excited to be on track for another fruitful year in the garden come spring! Maybe you will be as pleasantly surprised as I was with my soil test.
I hope this gives you a game plan for the necessary action to take to bring your garden up to snuff. Remember: Look after your soil and your soil will look after you!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/prepare-your-soil-fall-next-years-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from wall.alphacoders.com 

         I can’t believe it.  IT IS OCTOBER.  Not ready at all for the end of the season but I guess it is here.  Enjoy as the temperature here in Iowa will be high of 74 little wind, clear blue sky.  Another perfect fall day.  I should work with cleaning up plants, but I also need to can.  See what wins out.  Enjoy and stay safe.
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Why Do Fall Leaves Change Color?
What Makes Fall Foliage Colors So Bright?  By George and Becky Lohmiller
Nature is so fascinating! Did you know that the vivid colors of fall leaves were actually there all summer, just masked by green—or, that the main reason that the leaves change color is NOT due to changing weather? Enjoy some natural fun facts about what causes leaves to change color.
Why Do Trees Change Color?
Nature is so fascinating! The main reason for the eye-popping color change is not autumn’s chilly weather, but sunlight—or rather, the lack of daylight.  Day and night are roughly equal in length on the autumnal equinox in late September, but afterward, nights are growing longer and days shorter.
As the autumn days shrink, the reduced daylight tells deciduous plants that it’s time to stop gathering energy and get ready for the dormant season—winter.
All leaves have different types of chemicals in them; one of these chemicals, chlorophyll, is responsible for absorbing sunlight and gives leaves their green color. As chemical changes begin to take place inside the plant, it causes a corky wall of cells (called the “abscission zone”) to form between the twig and the leaf stalk. This corky wall eventually causes the leaf to drop off in the breeze.
As the corky cells multiply, they begin to seal off the vessels that supply the leaf with nutrients and water and also block the exit vessels to some extent, trapping simple sugars in the leaves. The combination of reduced light, lack of nutrients, and less water triggers the trees to start the process of breaking down the chlorophyll and the green color fades.
Because the green color was “masking” other color pigments, we start to see the yellows and reds showing through and you see leaves change colors!
Of course, not all leaves turn vivid colors in autumn. Only a few of our many species of deciduous trees—notably maple, aspen, birch, oak, and gum—produce truly stellar performances for our annual autumn spectacular in North America.
What Causes the Bright Yellow and Red Colors of Fall Leaves?
Once the waning hours of daylight trigger these changes and the green chlorophyll is gone, other pigments begin to reveal their bright faces!
Yellow carotenoids exist in the leaf all summer, but are masked by chlorophyll during the growing season. Red anthocyanins, on the other hand, are freshly produced by plants as fall conditions ramp up. Surprisingly enough, scientists aren’t entirely sure why trees bother to produce a new pigment while otherwise trying to save their precious resources for the winter ahead. Some suggest that the bright red color could deter insect pests from feeding on leaves, or that red attracts birds that feed on (and spread) the trees’ fruit.
However, another interesting theory is that the red pigment acts as a sort of sunscreen for the leaves, staving off damage from bright autumn sunlight and allowing the leaves to stay on the tree for longer than they would if they were to remain green or even yellow.
Sugar trapped in autumn leaves by the corky wall is largely responsible for the vividness of the colors. Some additional anthocyanins are also manufactured by sunlight acting on the trapped sugar. This is why fall foliage is so sparkling after several bright fall days and more muted during rainy spells.
Finally, as autumn carries on, leaves begin to turn brown once all their nutrients are re-absorbed by the tree. The brown color is the result of the leftover tannins, a chemical that exists in many leaves, especially oaks.
What Weather Conditions Bring the Best Fall Foliage?
While the daylight is the main factor that brings on fall foliage, several other factors contribute to how bright fall colors are: temperature, precipitation, and soil moisture.
In general, cooler nights with decreasing temperatures throughout the day lead to more vivid colors.
A wet growing season followed by an autumn with lots of sunny days, dry weather, and cold, frostless nights will produce the most vibrant palette of fall colors. This vividness is especially true of red leaves, such as those on sugar maples and red maple trees.
Drought conditions during late summer and early fall can also trigger an early “shutdown” of trees as they prepare for winter, causing leaves to release early from trees without reaching their full color potential. Check your long range forecast to see whether a dry autumn is in your future.
Of course, if freezing temperatures and a hard frost hit, it can kill the process within the leaves, leading to poor fall color and early leaf drop. Check the frost dates in your area!
Which Trees Produce Which Colors, and Which Trees Change Color First?
Aspen: Golden
Beech: Golden brown
Birch: bright yellow
Canada Red Choke Cherry: red to reddish-purple
Poplar: golden yellow
Sugar Maple: orange-red
Black Maple: glowing yellow
Red Maple: bright scarlet
Silver Maple: muted green
Sassafras: orange-yellow
Tupelo: yellow/orange and then red
Dogwood: purple-red
Oaks: brown or russet
Hickory: golden bronze
Maple-Leaf Viburnum: pinkish purple
Which trees change first depends on where you live. Tulip Poplar trees start changing colors as early as August. Next are the maple trees, which give us early oranges and yellows, and of course some regions have the brilliant red maples. Oak, Hickories, and Beech trees are the last to change color. Everything else is in between.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/why-do-leaves-change-color-fall
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365