picture from pinterest.com 

        ​Terrarium is back and I am surprised about the open lid.  In the 60's we had to close up the terrarium to make it keep the moist in.  BUT open lid will be fun to make.  I have some of these plants around I will need to make them  HOW about you?
 
The Return of the Terrarium
Originally popularized during the Victorian era in the form of the Wardian case, today, terrariums and bottle gardens are making a big comeback.
 
It’s easy to make a gorgeous mini-garden out of any clear container. An old fish bowl, cookie jar, giant brandy snifter, or wide mouthed bottle will make a fine indoor garden. If you are using an old aquarium, test it for leaks first; they can be fixed with silicone sealant to make it watertight. Just a hint: Planting is easier if you have chosen a wide mouthed container!
 
How to Make a Terrarium
To get started, you’ll need the right supplies:
•A clear container of your choice
•Pebbles, small river stones, or expanded clay balls used in hydroponics.
•Charcoal (activated charcoal, horticultural charcoal, or lump charcoal will all work as long as the product does not contain any additives)
•Potting soil (choose a well-draining soil to prevent it from getting compacted and waterlogged)
•Decor (wood, rocks, or other decorations)
•Plants (more on this later!)
•Planting tools: a spoon, long-handle tweezers, or even chopsticks can come in handy when planting in thin-mouthed containers
 
Instructions
1.Cover the bottom of the container with at least 1 inch of pebbles (or an equivalent material) for drainage. This drainage layer is used to keep the soil from becoming waterlogged and swampy.
2.Add a thin layer of crushed charcoal to cover the pebbles (this helps with filtration).
3.Add at least 3 to 4 inches or more of sterilized potting soil on top of the charcoal, depending on the size of your container and the size of the plants.
4.Now you get to be creative and design your miniature landscape. If your container is large enough, make hills, lakes, and paths or add rocks, statues, and driftwood.
5.Finally, it’s time to plant. Look for dwarf or low growing plants that all have the same requirements for light, humidity, water, and temperature.
 
Combine different sizes, shapes, colors, and leaf textures to make things interesting. Select plants that don’t mind wet foliage, such as moss, ferns, or prayer plants. Plant a woodland scene, use flowering alpines, get carnivorous, or go totally tropical.    
 
Which Plants Grow Best in Terrariums?
The two most important factors to consider when choosing plants for terrariums are their mature size and their ability to tolerate moisture. Some plants that grow well in terrariums are:
•Ajuga
•Aluminum plant
•Artillery plant (Pilea)
•Baby’s tears
•Bird’s nest sansevieria (for open terrariums only)
•Bloodleaf (Iresine herbstii)
•Bromeliads (young plants only)
•Button fern
•Carnivorous plants: Venus fly traps, sundews, butterworts, cobra lilies, and tropical pitcher plants are all carnivorous plants that like humidity. However, most non-tropical species need to experience a period of colder weather (dormancy) to thrive.
•Chinese evergreen (young plants only)
•Creeping fig
•Earth star (Cryptanthus)
•Flame violet (Episcia dianthiflora)
•Mosses
•Oxalis
•Pellionia
•Peperomia
•Polka-dot plant (Hypoestes)
•Rabbit’s foot fern
•Small-leaf ivies
•Spike moss (Selaginella)
•Strawberry begonia
•Swedish ivy
•Variegated aloe (for open terrariums only)
 
Most nurseries offer a wide variety of “terrarium plants,” though these are more often than not just young plants that will eventually grow too large for your container. In general, look for plants that like a tropical climate and that grow in a creeping, vining, or clumping manner.
 
Since cacti and succulents can’t tolerate humid conditions, they are not good candidates for a closed terrarium. Save them for an open dish garden, which can be created in the same fashion as a closed terrarium—just be sure to use a succulent soil mix for good drainage!
 
Taking Care of Your Terrarium
Once established, your terrarium will be very low maintenance.
•Don’t plant too closely, allow some room for growth. Your terrarium won’t look instantly lush; plants need time to adjust and settle in.
•Water after planting; soil should be damp but not soaked.
•Place your terrarium where it will get bright light but not in direct sun, which will cook your plants. Artificial light is excellent.
•Leave the terrarium open for a few days while the plant leaves dry off, then put on the cover and keep a close eye on the plants.
•Excessive condensation, moldy plants, and limp yellow leaves are signs of overwatering. Open the cover and let your terrarium dry out a bit if that occurs.
•No condensation and plants with wilted leaves are signs of underwatering. Check the soil and water lightly if it seems dry.
•Leggy growth is a sign that your terrarium is not getting enough light.
•It’s normal to see small insects crawling around in your terrarium after a while. Usually, these are springtails, which are beneficial insects that help to break down dead plant material. They’re your terrarium’s clean-up crew!
 
Sit back and imagine yourself strolling through your mini-landscape, enjoying the greenery and humid air. Spring will be here before you know it!
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/how-make-terrarium-gardens-under- glass
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from serendipityrefined.com

     ​Tips for Fall and Winter Container Gardening   By Kerry Michaels 
If you live in a cold climate, you might think you have to give up container gardening once the temperatures dip. Just wait; there are lots of things you can do to garden in pots all year long.
 
Fall is a great time to experiment with texture and color in your container gardens. While mums and asters can be spectacular and classic in a fall container garden, there are lots of other choices that will last well beyond the first frost. Winter is tricky as many pots will break apart if they freeze, but there are some that will hold up to even the most frigid temps. Use this advice for keeping your garden growing all winter long.
 
While summer is a terrific time to go crazy with flowering annuals (those plants that only last one season in cold climates), fall is a wonderful season to try hardy  perennials that will stand up to the cold in your container gardens. Have fun experimenting with color combinations you didn’t use in the summer. Purples and oranges, mixed with bright greens and deep reds can look stunning. Think texture by using grasses and interesting leaf textures like fuzzy lambs ears.
 
For the best chances that your plants will survive a cold winter, choose perennials that are rated two zones colder than your area. Life in a pot is harsher and the roots aren't as protected as they are in the ground.
 
For fall containers try some of these cold-hardy perennials:
■ Coral bells
■ Sedum
■ Grasses
■ Smokebush
■ Lamb's ear
■ Ivy
■ Creeping Jenny
■ Hens and Chicks
 
While there are lots of annuals that instantly die at the hint of frost, there are plenty that will last well past the first frost. Some will even look fabulous and sculptural with a coating of snow. Try combining different heights and forms, or go simple and pot a single dramatic plant in a beautiful container.
 
Try some of these cold-loving annuals:
■ Flowering cabbages
■ Flowering kales
■ Annual grasses
■ Sages
■ Flaxes
■ Pansies
■ Creeping wirevine
■ New Zealand flax
 
Make sure that your containers are made of material that will withstand freezing and thawing. Ceramics, terra cottas, and thin plastics probably will not survive. Instead try containers made of the following materials:
■ Fiberglass
■ Metal
■ Thick plastic
■ Stone
■ Concrete
■ Hollow logs
 
Throughout the winter, make sure that drainage holes are clear and use pot feet to elevate your containers. That way they won't freeze to the ground, which can break even the hardiest pot.
 
While you can’t buy your plants tiny down coats, you can help them survive the winter. In the fall,  continue watering your container gardens. Stop fertilizing containers, particularly those that contain perennials, about six to eight weeks before the first frost date is predicted for your area. You don’t want to encourage new growth. It is too tender, won’t survive cold temperatures, and could even weaken or kill your plant.
 
According to the "Farmers' Almanac," here's what to expect:
■ Light freeze (between 29 to 32 degrees Fahrenheit): tender plants are killed, other vegetation is not dramatically affected.
■ Moderate freeze (between 25 and 28 degrees Fahrenheit): heavy damage to tender and semi-hardy plants.
■ Severe Freeze (below 25 degrees Fahrenheit): only the hardy survive.
 
If you have a delicate container filled with perennials, dig the plants out and put them into a garden bed before the soil freezes. Or, depending on the plant, you may be able to turn it into a houseplant. Some plants that go dormant will survive in an unheated basement or shed. Do some research on your plant to see what the best chance for survival is.
Even if a plant is a hardy perennial, if it doesn't look great, or you just aren’t crazy about it, get rid of it. Add it to your compost pile and at least it will become food for some other plant down the line.
https://www.thespruce.com/fall-and-winter-container-gardening- till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

picture from pinterest.com

    When to Plant Bulbs
Spring-flowering bulbs are planted in the fall to give them ample time to grow roots during winter in preparation for the spring show. So, if you think that autumn’s the time to stop gardening, think again! Fall will be bulb-planting time! It’s so easy to stick bulbs in the ground—and so magical to see their colorful blooms emerge in early spring to lift your spirits.
 
Planting time is usually late September to mid-October in northern climate so that bulbs can grow roots before the ground freezes. (Tulips are one exception–you can plant these as late as you can get them into the soil.) Consult our Frost Dates Calculator to see when the first fall frost will be in your area.
 
In the lower South, where you may not have a hard freeze, early November is a good time to plant. You can plant them as late as December but the later you wait, the less able the bulbs will be to establish themselves.
 
Buying Bulbs
Bulbs can be ordered from a mail-order catalog ahead of time, so that the bulbs arrive right in time for fall planting. Or, make sure you buy your bulbs from a reputable nursery or garden center. Remember, second-rate bulbs produce second-rate flowers, don’t sprout at all, and often don’t return year after year. Don’t forget to plant extra for cutting so you can bring some of that spring color indoors.
 
Good bulbs should be fresh and firm, not brittle or rotted or moldy. Also, choose bulbs with intact husks to better fight any disease.
 
When you receive bulbs, plant immediately or store in a cool, dark, dry place at around 60 to 65 degrees F. Temperatures above 70 degrees F. may damage the flower buds.
 
Selecting Bulb Varieties
 
Here are some of the most popular spring-blooming bulbs planted in the fall. See the chart farther down this page for planting information on these and other spring flower favorites.
•Daffodils are a favorite because they are vole- and deer-resistant.
 
Flower bulbs
•Irises are hardy, reliable, and easy to grow, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds and making lovely cut flowers.
 
Fall-Planted Bulbs by Zone Chart
See the chart for type of bulbs by hardiness zone. In the warmer South, note that some bulbs need to be treated as annuals instead of perennials; they’ll bloom once and then they’re done. For example, you will have to plant tulip bulbs again each year. Still, they are a beautiful sight to behold and well worth the effort! Other fall bulbs, such as daffodils, will act as perennials and come up year after year.
 
In warm climates, you may need to pre-cool some bulbs. Most spring-flowering bulbs require a 12 to 16 week cold period in ventilated packages in the bottom of your refrigerator at 40 to 50 degrees F. before planting. Check with your bulb supplier to determine whether the bulbs you purchase have been pre-cooled or whether you may need to give them a cold treatment.
Bulb Planting Tips
•Select a site where the bulbs will receive at least part sun throughout the spring.
•Bulbs will need soil that drains nicely or they will rot. Work a few inches of compost or organic matter into the soil before planting for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soils.
•Bulbs look great planted en mass—in a grove, near the mailbox, as swaths of colors in garden beds, and as colorful borders.
•In general, plant bulbs at a depth of three times the width of the bulb. (That means about 4 to 6 inches deep for small bulbs like snowdrops, crocuses, and grape hyacinths, and about 8 inches deep for large bulbs like hybrid tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths.)
•You can use a bulb-planting tool but if you are planting en masse by the dozens, just use a shovel and make a wide hole for planting many bulbs at once.
•Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
•Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout. And plant them in random order and spacing for a more natural appearance. If you love groves of daffodils and blanketed landscapes of tulips, be prepared to buy and plant a large quantity of bulbs!
•After planting, apply fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as a 9-6-6 formulation. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
•Water well after planting.
•Apply mulch to the planting area to keep the weeds down, hold in moisture, and avoid heaving from wintertime thawing and freezing.
•Do you have voles or squirrels? Consider planting your bulbs in a “cage” fashioned with chicken wire. Also, check out our tips for preventing vole damage and squirrel damage. Or try planting some rodent-proof bulbs.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/planting-fall-bulbs-spring-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net


If you want to see a chart go to the almanac  site for the planting chart 

picture from https://www.almanac.com/content/planting-fall-bulbs-spring-flowers?trk_msg=KP07C7AR0IG4V0040B0L3CDPAG&trk_contact=I366NNSLAJU6KS9H67PLAT219S&trk_sid=ORUJK5C79J2NGA7LC4HGOPHJ90&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Planting+Fall+Bulbs+for+Spring+Flowers+(read+more)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Go here if you want to see it better....

      When to Plant Bulbs
Spring-flowering bulbs are planted in the fall to give them ample time to grow roots during winter in preparation for the spring show. So, if you think that autumn’s the time to stop gardening, think again! Fall will be bulb-planting time! It’s so easy to stick bulbs in the ground—and so magical to see their colorful blooms emerge in early spring to lift your spirits.
 
Planting time is usually late September to mid-October in northern climate so that bulbs can grow roots before the ground freezes. (Tulips are one exception–you can plant these as late as you can get them into the soil.) Consult our Frost Dates Calculator to see when the first fall frost will be in your area.
 
In the lower South, where you may not have a hard freeze, early November is a good time to plant. You can plant them as late as December but the later you wait, the less able the bulbs will be to establish themselves.
 
Buying Bulbs
Bulbs can be ordered from a mail-order catalog ahead of time, so that the bulbs arrive right in time for fall planting. Or, make sure you buy your bulbs from a reputable nursery or garden center. Remember, second-rate bulbs produce second-rate flowers, don’t sprout at all, and often don’t return year after year. Don’t forget to plant extra for cutting so you can bring some of that spring color indoors.
 
Good bulbs should be fresh and firm, not brittle or rotted or moldy. Also, choose bulbs with intact husks to better fight any disease.
 
When you receive bulbs, plant immediately or store in a cool, dark, dry place at around 60 to 65 degrees F. Temperatures above 70 degrees F. may damage the flower buds.
 
Selecting Bulb Varieties
 
Here are some of the most popular spring-blooming bulbs planted in the fall. See the chart farther down this page for planting information on these and other spring flower favorites.
•Daffodils are a favorite because they are vole- and deer-resistant.
 
Flower bulbs
•Irises are hardy, reliable, and easy to grow, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds and making lovely cut flowers.
 
Fall-Planted Bulbs by Zone Chart
See the chart for type of bulbs by hardiness zone. In the warmer South, note that some bulbs need to be treated as annuals instead of perennials; they’ll bloom once and then they’re done. For example, you will have to plant tulip bulbs again each year. Still, they are a beautiful sight to behold and well worth the effort! Other fall bulbs, such as daffodils, will act as perennials and come up year after year.
 
In warm climates, you may need to pre-cool some bulbs. Most spring-flowering bulbs require a 12 to 16 week cold period in ventilated packages in the bottom of your refrigerator at 40 to 50 degrees F. before planting. Check with your bulb supplier to determine whether the bulbs you purchase have been pre-cooled or whether you may need to give them a cold treatment.
Bulb Planting Tips
•Select a site where the bulbs will receive at least part sun throughout the spring.
•Bulbs will need soil that drains nicely or they will rot. Work a few inches of compost or organic matter into the soil before planting for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soils.
•Bulbs look great planted en mass—in a grove, near the mailbox, as swaths of colors in garden beds, and as colorful borders.
•In general, plant bulbs at a depth of three times the width of the bulb. (That means about 4 to 6 inches deep for small bulbs like snowdrops, crocuses, and grape hyacinths, and about 8 inches deep for large bulbs like hybrid tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths.)
•You can use a bulb-planting tool but if you are planting en masse by the dozens, just use a shovel and make a wide hole for planting many bulbs at once.
•Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
•Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout. And plant them in random order and spacing for a more natural appearance. If you love groves of daffodils and blanketed landscapes of tulips, be prepared to buy and plant a large quantity of bulbs!
•After planting, apply fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as a 9-6-6 formulation. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
•Water well after planting.
•Apply mulch to the planting area to keep the weeds down, hold in moisture, and avoid heaving from wintertime thawing and freezing.
•Do you have voles or squirrels? Consider planting your bulbs in a “cage” fashioned with chicken wire. Also, check out our tips for preventing vole damage and squirrel damage. Or try planting some rodent-proof bulbs.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/planting-fall-bulbs-spring-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from epicgardening.com

         ​The gardening world has many examples where a single common name is slapped on more than one plant species, and such is the case with the houseplant we know as wandering Jew. This name is used for several different plant species within the Tradescantia genus. This genus includes at least 75 different herbaceous perennial species, including some regarded as noxious weeds, some as prized outdoor garden plants (the garden spiderworts), and three of them are as widely used mostly as indoor houseplants. These are the ones generally known as wandering Jew plants. The common name is thought to derive from the plant's habit to migrate to wet, moist regions. Like the garden varieties of Tradescantia, the houseplant varieties have flowers with three petals, although they are not particularly showy in these species. Blooms are white, pink, or purple, depending on species and variety, and appear regularly.
 
Botanical Name Tradescantia fluminensis, T. pallida, T. zebrina
Common Name Wandering Jew plant, striped wandering Jew (T. zebrina), inch plant, flowering inch plant, wandering Willie (T. fluminensis), purple queen (T. pallida), spiderwort
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; normally grown as a houseplant
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches in height, 12 to 24 inches in spread
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect sun
Soil Type Moderately moist potting soil
Soil pH Grows in all soils
Bloom Time Flowers freely at all times
Flower Color Varies depending on species; pink, rose-purple, or white
Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 (USDA); grown as a houseplant everywhere
Native Area Mexico, South America, Central America, Caribbean
 
How to Grow Wandering Jew Plants 
This is one of the easiest houseplants to grow. (It is almost too easy to grow as a garden plant within its hardiness zone, where it is sometimes considered invasive.)
 
The most difficult thing about growing wandering Jew plants as houseplants is getting the moisture levels right. This is a plant that likes moist soil but abhors being soggy. Make sure to plant it in well-drained potting soil, as the roots can easily develop rot if they are too wet. Mixing a bit of sand into a commercial potting soil that has an ample amount of organic material is a good solution.
 
Wandering Jew plant is best suited for hanging containers, and it needs a location with plenty of indirect natural light. These plants can become leggy and scraggly with large sections of bare stems unless they are pinched back regularly to keep them bushy. They do not require much in the way of feeding.
 
Even with the best of care, wandering Jew plants are somewhat short-lived; within a few years, they become leggy and scraggly. Fortunately, they are very easy to propagate from small stem cuttings.
 
Light 
Wandering Jew plants do best in bright but indirect sun. Without enough light, the variegation of the leaves begins to fade. Too much sun, though, can cause the leaves to scorch.
 
Soil 
This plant can well with ordinary potting soil if it is not over-watered, but prefers a soil that drains well. Mixing a small amount of sand into commercial potting soil is ideal.
 
 Water 
This plant does well if kept moist but not soggy. It should be watered weekly in the summer, less frequently in the winter.
 
 Temperature and Humidity 
Any of the species of wandering Jew plant will thrive at temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, but will also do fine in warmer temperatures. However, below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the leaves may become discolored or damaged.
 
 Fertilizer 
The plant doesn't require much, if any, feeding. At most, use a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength, applied bimonthly. More aggressive feeding can cause the plant's leaves to lose their variegation.
 
Potting and Repotting 
Wandering Jew plants do not die if they are not repotted, but they will benefit from potting up to the next larger container size once each year.
 
 Propagating Wandering Jew Plants 
This is a very easy plant to propagate. Simply take a one-inch piece of stem containing at least one leaf and set it in fresh potting soil. No rooting hormone is necessary. Regular watering will encourage a fully rooted new plant within a few weeks.
 
 Varieties of Wandering Jew Plant 
■ T. pallida 'Purple Heart' features solid purple foliage.
■ T. Zebrina pendula is a slightly more colorful version of Zebrina with reddish leaves.
■ T. Callisia is another species, this one with bold white stripes.
Pruning 
Wandering Jew is an aggressively growing plant that can get overly leggy, with bare lower stems. Cutting the stems back to a joint will curtail the scraggly appearance and cause the plant to become wider and bushier. Regular pinch the stems back by at least 25 percent.
 
 Common Problems 
The most common problem with wandering Jew plants is root rot, usually caused by overwatering or by planting in soil that is too high in organic material. Mix a handful of sand or perlite into the potting soil mix before planting.
 
Aphids and spider mites are the most common insect pests. They can usually be simply washed off with water.
Low temperatures or too much fertilizer can cause the leaves to lose their variegation. Too much direct sun can cause leaf scorch.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/tradescantia-care-overview
till next time, This is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

picture from jmhomeand garden.blogspot.com

       ​Chrysanthemum Plant Profile   By Marie Iannotti
 
Chrysanthemum plants are a symbol of fall, with their domes of vibrant, jewel-tone colors. To tempt gardeners to purchase these late-season bloomers, they are often sold in full bloom. While it is nice to have instant color and even nicer to know exactly what color you are getting, buying flowers in full bloom can mean they are past peak and already declining. That is fine if all you want is a seasonal decoration, but not good if you are hoping for a hardy perennial plant.
 
You can always grow mums as annuals. They do provide wonderful fall color and work great at filling in empty spots where summer bloomers have faded. Look for plants with lots of unopened buds to have blooms well into the fall season.
 
Botanical Name Chrysanthemum morifolium
Common Name Chrysanthemum, mums, hardy mums
Plant Type Herbaceous perennials
Mature Size Two to three feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Late summer and fall
Flower Color Gold, white, off-white, yellow, bronze (rust), red, burgundy, pink, lavender, and purple
Hardiness Zones 3 through 9
Native Area Asia and northeastern Europe
 
How to Grow Chrysanthemums 
For mums to be truly hardy, they need time to become established in the ground. Ideally, they are best planted in the spring and allowed to grow in place all season. Unfortunately, the mums for sale in garden centers in the fall have been coddled in nurseries and coaxed to set buds for September blooms. That means they are putting an awful lot of energy into blooming, not growing roots.
 
Planting these specimens in the garden in late summer or early fall does not guarantee sufficient time for the plants to become established. This is not a problem in warmer climates, where a bit of deadheading will satisfy most mums after bloom, but in areas with sub-zero winters, perennial plants need strong roots to anchor them into the ground. The repeated freezing and thawing of the soil will heave the plant out of the ground and kill the roots.
 
Spring-planted mums will have plenty of time for root growth. Many gardeners are surprised that their garden mums start to bloom in mid to late summer. If you want fall flowers on your mums, you will need to pinch the plants back periodically throughout the summer. Start when the plants are about 4 to 5 inches tall and repeat every 2 to 3 weeks until about mid-July. This will cause the plant to get stocky and bushier, and by late summer, it should be covered with flower buds.
 
Light 
Although mums can handle partial shade, you will get the fullest plants and the best blooms in full sun. Chrysanthemum flowers are "photoperiodic" which means they bloom in response to the shorter days and longer nights experienced (in the Northern Hemisphere) in fall. Therefore, do not plant chrysanthemum flowers near street lights or night lights; the artificial lighting may wreak havoc with their cycle.
 
 Soil 
All mums prefer fertile, well-drained soil, with lots of organic matter or compost worked in. They like a soil pH slightly on the acidic side.
 
 Water 
Mums prefer evenly moist soil. Water the plant when the top 1 inch of soil begins to dry. If watering in a pot, water the soil surface using a watering can until moisture begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Checking your pots for drainage holes before committing to using them. Water should drain freely through the soil and out the bottom of the pot when watering. Soil should remain moist, but not soggy. Soggy soil can cause root rot and other diseases.
 
 Temperature and Humidity 
As one of their nicknames "hardy mums" suggests, they can handle cool temperatures. Mums can overwinter in the ground, and they do so even better in the warmer climates. For fall-planted mums to have a better chance of survival in cold areas, you need to give the roots and crown of the plant extra protection. First, leave the foliage on the plants until spring. Do not prune them back after frost has turned them brown. Then, either mulch the plants heavily with at least 4 to 6 inches of mulch or dig up a pot, and move the plants to a more protected spot in the garden for the winter. If you choose to move the plants, do so before the first hard freeze.
 
In warmer climates, consider heat delay. If you have high temperatures, particularly at nighttime, it can cause the plant to flower later than it usually would. Heat delay can cause irregularly formed flower buds, erratic flowering, deformation of the plant’s crown and other developmental issues. To bypass this problem in hotter climates, look for cultivars with higher heat tolerance.
 
 Fertilizer 
It is crucial to provide nitrogen and potassium to chrysanthemums during their vegetative phase. Feed the plants before flower buds form to promote healthy roots, bud development, and a vigorous plant. Start a feeding cycle in March, April, or May, depending upon your zone. You can get a time-released fertilizer (12-6-6), which feeds the plants for about three months. With this fertilizer, you might only need to feed the plants once. The general rule of thumb is to begin after all danger of frost has passed. That way any new growth forced by the nutrients will not be in danger of damage from icy weather. Established plants should not be fed after July, so new growth is not injured by frost.
 
 Potting and Repotting 
Repotting is the single most important thing you can do to increase the longevity of your mums. Most mums are completely root bound when you get them. The roots have taken up the entire pot, which makes it really hard for the soil to retain any water. To repot, choose a container that is a little bigger than the last container. Fill the bottom of the new pot with a good quality potting soil. Break up any roots you can, but do not damage the roots.
 
When you put the plant in the new pot, the surface of the soil should be an inch below the lip of the new pot. Make sure you have soil, not air surrounding the roots. Tamp down the soil gently. Give the pot a good watering until it flows out of the bottom of the pot.
 
 Propagating Chrysanthemums 
You can propagate mums several ways: division, seeds, and cuttings. The most straightforward and fastest method will be through division.
■ Division: Divide plants that have grown in the garden for at least two years. Younger plants will not have a sufficient root system to survive. By every third spring, divide chrysanthemums to rejuvenate them. Do this in the spring. Pick plants that are at least 6 inches tall. Be careful not to damage the roots. Replant at least 18 inches apart.
■ Seeds: Mums can grow from seeds, but it is best if you use purchased seeds. If you attempt to plant seeds from your own plants (most are hybrids), the resulting plant may not be true to the parent. If you are OK with a mystery result, then go for it. Start seed indoors, 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date and harden off plants before transplanting outdoors.
■ Cuttings: This is an excellent method to get a replica of the plant you have. It does away with the mystery that comes with seeds. Although this method does have extra steps, you have to cut a stem that is at least 4 inches, dip the cut end into a rooting hormone, plant it in a container, wait about 4 weeks or so for a root to grow and for the plant to grow another 2 inches, then transplant it outside.
https://www.thespruce.com/fall-garden-mums-hardy-or-no-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from gardeningknowhow.com

     How to Root-Prune a Rootbound Plant   By Kerry Michaels 
The term "rootbound" means that the roots of a plant have completely taken up space within the pot that contains it, often circling and creating a dense web of roots. This can form a compacted, hard ball that will slide out of the pot in a mass, retaining the shape of the pot. If often means the plant is no longer healthy because the roots have replaced the potting soil. The tangled knot of roots can stress the plant and deprive it of nutrients, air, and water.
There are two primary solutions for a rootbound plant. First, you can repot your plant, putting it in a larger pot so the roots have room to expand. This is a good solution if you want your plant to keep growing and when you have a larger pot available. But, if the plant is in a favorite pot you want to keep using, or if you don't want your plant to get larger, it's a better solution to root-prune your plant. Root- pruning a rootbound plant sounds intimidating, but it's an easy procedure if your plant isn't too big, and it may even save the life of your plant. It takes some nerve to root-prune a potted plant, but it truly is a kindness for a plant that has outgrown its pot. If your plant is living in a terrarium, is a bonsai, or a containerized tree you can root-prune it in order to maintain its small size.
 
When to Root-Prune a Potted Plant 
A potted plant should be root-pruned whenever the plant's roots grow to the extent that they entirely fill the pot and begin to circle around the inside surface of the pot. How often this needs to be done will depend on the type of plant and how rapidly it is growing, but it is usually easy to tell that root-pruning is necessary because the plant's root ball will slide out of the pot in a solid mass when you attempt to lift it by the stem, or when you turn the pot upside down. As you do so, a root-bound plant will show a dense mass of white roots rather than a mixture of soil and roots around the perimeter of the root ball.
 
Examine the Root Ball
First, take your plant out of its pot and examine the roots. When doing this, particularly with a delicate plant, don’t just pull the plant out of its pot. If the plant isn’t too big, tip the pot over and tap the rim. If the pot is flexible, try to slightly compress the sides of the pot. Put your hand at the base of the plant or slide your fingers through the foliage and slide the rootball out. You may also have to run a long knife around the perimeter of the pot to separate the roots and soil from the inside of the pot.
 
Trim the Roots
To prune the roots, start with a pair of scissors, pruning shears, or sharp knife. Cut around and under the plant’s root ball, removing both roots and soil. You can be pretty aggressive, cutting away both large and small roots. This may feel a bit barbaric, as though you are harming your plant, but a plant's roots can take a lot of abuse, and the plant may thank you for it.
 
Loosen the Rootball
When you are done, take a stick, pronged cultivator, or a fork and loosen the soil and roots around the surface of the root ball, teasing out tangles and spreading the roots. This encourages the roots to expand into the soil around the ball rather than continuing to grow in circles and strangle the plant.
 
Prepare the Pot
 Add potting mix to the bottom of the container. Make sure there is enough soil so that the now-smaller root ball will sit on the soil and so that the top of the plant is about 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Make sure that the crown of the plant—where the plant stem meets the roots—is at soil level.
 
05 Repot the Plant
Finally, place your plant in the pot and add soil around the newly trimmed rootball, making sure soil gets into all the cracks and crannies between the rootball and sides of the container. You may need a stick or trowel to move around the sides of the pot, making sure you have filled all the voids.
 
06 Water generously when the repotting is done and add additional soil if needed. Make sure to keep your plant well hydrated for a few weeks so it can recover and thrive.
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/caring-tips-for-root-bound-plant
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

picture from pinterest.com 

          ​ 
Common Reasons Why Houseplants Die   By Jon VanZile 
 
What indoor gardener hasn’t asked this question? As wonderful as they are, both for your health and your décor, it can sometimes seem that houseplants just love to die—especially if you’re relatively new to indoor gardening. Perhaps worse yet, in many cases, gardeners are mystified by exactly why their beloved plant died.
 
The good news is that plants really don't just die without a reason. In fact, houseplants are fairly predictable, depending on their species, and the vast majority of houseplant casualties are all caused by the same few factors. Here are the top reasons houseplants die.
 
 Too Much Water 
Too much water may seem impossible but in reality, it's not only possible but a very common mistake people make. There are very few plants that can handle daily watering in a typical potting situation, even many of the tropical plants we love indoors. The old advice about waiting until the top inch of soil is dry is a pretty good rule of thumb. You can also look for signs of thirst in your plant, including drooping or wilting leaves. In general, you shouldn’t water your plants until they need it.
 
Poor Drainage 
This is the first cousin to overwatering. Watering and drainage are so closely related, it’s hard to draw a distinction between them, but there’s no question that bad drainage kills a lot of plants. Poorly drained pots, which can include root-bound plants or simply old potting soil, can easily retain water in the bottom of the pot, even if it’s drier higher up. The result is roots that sit in water, creating the perfect conditions for root rot. Similarly, many people water their plants until the water runs out into the tray, but then they don’t empty the tray so the plant is literally sitting in a pond. This is also an invitation for root rot. As a rule, the better your drainage is, the more frequently you can water and the more latitude you have to make mistakes with watering.
 
 Not Repotting 
It’s all too common that a plant owner will have a plant for a year or two, during which time the plant thrives and looks great, only to be startled and confused when the plant starts to fail for no reason. In many cases, this is caused by a root-bound plant that is no longer receiving adequate nutrition from the soil (because there’s hardly any left). Not all plants need to be repotted every year, but you should frequently check for root-bound plants.
 
 Using Old Potting Soil 
This is also closely related to not repotting. Most potting soils are based on peat, which breaks down over time and becomes more acidic. As peat breaks down, it becomes harder for water and oxygen to fully infuse the root zone, so the plant will starve slowly even if nothing else changes (e.g., your watering schedule). The best solution here is to repot when the plant needs it. If your plant is too old, take cuttings.
 
 Not Enough Water 
This is mostly caused by neglect, so it’s a safe bet that people who let their plants die from lack of water really just don’t care.
 
 Fertilizer Issues 
Notice the conspicuous absence of light and fertilizer issues on this list. The truth is that, if you’re getting the watering and drainage portion right, many plants can be very adaptable. A plant with a healthy root zone can often survive fluctuations in temperature, imperfect lighting conditions, and even less-than-ideal light levels. In this way, plants are a bit like houses: they need a strong foundation to thrive. That said, if you can provide the ideal amount of light and a judicious hand with the fertilizer, your plants will thrive.
 
Lastly, if you do find you’re killing a lot of plants, maybe it’s time to switch to buying tougher houseplants and gradually working up to the more challenging plants.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/why-are-my-houseplants-dying-
till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from mentalfloss.com

           Now I have to say summer is almost over with the first day of fall on Monday.  Where did the summer go?  We are still having summer like weather today with high temperature and high humidity.  But that cool front is coming thru tomorrow and looks like next week more fall like.  We will take what we get.  As we all know, each day goes by and we can't change that at all.  Make the most of your day.   What I want you to remember is this....when you see the sunrise and the sunset where it comes up or set that is the true east and true west.  I think that is amazing.  
 
Are Days and Nights Truly Equal?
 
We have an equinox coming up on Monday, September 23, 2019, at 3:50 a.m. EDT.
 
At this equinox, the Earth will angle perfectly sideways to the Sun. Neither pole will tip toward or away from it. And therefore, as the media never tire of reminding us, days and nights should theoretically be equal, right?
 
But this is never quite true. Our atmosphere bends the Sun’s image upward so much that it rises two or three minutes earlier and sets that much later than it would on an airless world, and those extra five minutes of daily sunshine push the true date of equality to a few days after the equinox.
 
And even then it’s not strictly accurate to say day and NIGHT are equal, because of twilight. If useful daylight ends about an hour after sunset, and you add in the dawn twilight too, then most places don’t have equal day and night until around November 10. So we get more actual night than daylight for just three months, from then until mid-February.
 
Sunrise and Sunset on the Equinox
Never mind the equality business. A more precise equinox event is that the Sun rises and sets exactly in the east and west, not southeast or northwest or anything else. It’s a time of precision, and an opportunity to correctly position your sundial, that task you keep putting off.
 
The Sun’s Path
Another equinox phenomenon is that the Sun then moves in a laser-straight line across the sky. A time exposure shows this nicely. By comparison, for the past six months, the Sun’s path has displayed an upward curve, concave to the north, like a giant smile. Starting right after the equinox, the Sun’s track across the sky starts to bend like a rainbow, with the concave part aimed downward.
 
Eternal Equinox Folklore
As for the age-old idea that eggs are able to balance on end during the equinox but at no other time—that’s just silly. Why should the laws of gravity be repealed just because the Sun illuminates both poles equally that day? Still, it’s fun to consider, especially if it sparks conversation about the reasons for the seasons.
 
If you take the equinox so seriously that you have an equinox-obsessive personality, which psychologists call EOP, you’ll contemplate the idea of equality on September 22. That’s when our beloved Sun pauses momentarily, balanced and motionless, before lunging headlong toward the northern winter.
 
Welcome to “This Week’s Amazing Sky,” the Almanac’s hub for everything stargazing and astronomy. Bob Berman, longtime and famous astronomer for The Old Farmer’s Almanac, will help bring alive the wonders of our universe. From the beautiful stars and planets to magical auroras and eclipses, he covers everything under the Sun (and Moon)! Bob, the world’s mostly widely read astronomer, also has a new weekly podcast, Astounding Universe!
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/astronomy/astronomy/old-misunderstood-equinox
 till next time this is Becky Litterer Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net