image from scienceblogs. com 

      We have gotten rain since I have posted last.  2 inches in this last couple of rains.  BUT now it is still humid and hot with the sun out this afternoon.  More rain and storms predicted for today, and again Saturday night into Sunday.  I could tell that the weather was changing because I really hurt the last couple of days.  Today is better but not looking forward to that cold front coming in tomorrow night.  BUT with that cold front the weather next week will be better, more seasonable and easier to work out in our gardens.
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INSECTS, SPIDERS, AND OTHER "CREEPY-CRAWLIES" THAT FORECAST WEATHER  By The Editors
Can insects predict the weather? Next time you see an insect, spider, or other “creepy-crawly,” check out what it’s doing! It could let you know something about the upcoming weather. Here’s some of the more well-known weather folklore about insects and weather!
Observe ants, bees, hornets, crickets, and other insects. Their activity tells us whether the weather will be cold, warm, windy or fair!
See how high the hornet’s nest, ‘twill tell how high the snow will rest.
If ant hills are high in July, the coming winter will be hard.
When cicadas are heard, dry weather will follow, and frost will come in six weeks.
If ants their walls do frequently build, rain will from the clouds be spilled.
When bees to distance wing their flight, days are warm and skies are bright; But when their flight ends near their home, stormy weather is sure to come.
The early arrival of crickets on the hearth means an early winter.
The more quickly crickets chirp, the warmer the temperature.
SPIDER FOLKLORE
Of course, spiders are arachnids, not insects, but we’re including these creeply-crawlies here! Can spiders predict winter weather? What do you think?
Observe spiders and their webs closely to gauge weather:
Spiders spinning larger than usual webs is a sign of a cold winter to come.
When spiders’ webs in air do fly, the spell will soon be very dry.
When spiderwebs are wet with dew that soon dries, expect a fine day.
Spiderwebs floating at autumn sunset; bring a night frost, on this you may bet.
Spiders move down from their webs before rain.
THE WOOLLY WORMS’ BANDS
Certainly, many of you may have heard of the woolly bear caterpillar’s ability to forecast winter weather. These caterpillars have black and brown bands; according to folklore, more black than brown indicates a harsh, cold winter, while more brown than black points to a mild winter.
Observe reptiles and amphibians as weather predictors, too!
The louder the frogs, the more the rain.
Frogs singing in the evening indicates fair weather the next day.
Hang up a snakeskin and it will bring rain.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-insects-predict-weather
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  641-903-9365 

new lavender   "​Lavandula intermedia ‘Tesseract’ PP31786)"

     ​    We had 2 inches of rain yesterday afternoon and the wind did blow.  BUT the front must have picked up speed as it went east as more damage done further south and east.  There are some corn fields with corn down.  Looks another hot and humid day.  I do believe the next 5 days will be that with chance of rain each day.  Again, it is the summer and this is typical summer weather. Stay safe and stay cool. 
I am doing something different today in this post.  Being a grower and a greenhouse, this industry has been sending out lots of information on new plants.  I am posting 4 from this article that I received.  I will be posting more on what is coming for next year.  Getting the plants is always the challenge and what new ones do I grow?  ENJOY!
Lavender ‘Sensational’ (Lavandula intermedia ‘Tesseract’ PP31786) was chosen by judges as the Best in Show winner in the 2021 Farwest Show’s New Varieties Showcase.
The plant, discovered by Lloyd Traven and Richard Grazzini and introduced by Peace Tree Farms based in Kintnersville, Pennsylvania, was one of 74 new selections on display at the 2021 Farwest Show and available from at least one show exhibitor.
‘Sensational’ is available from Farwest Show exhibitors Walla Walla Nursery Co. It is described as “the next generation of Lavender Phenomenal.” The plant boasts “incredibly large and think flowers and sturdy stems,” along with “broad silver foliage that is “thick and tough” and a “thick floral aroma.” Other attributes include a dense habit, heat tolerance, humidity tolerance and cold tolerance.

In addition of the Best of Show award, judges gave Awards of Merit as follows:
‘Burning Heart’ Sun Caladium
(Caladium × hortulanum ‘Burning Heart’ PP27071), introduced by Proven Winners North America LLC. It is a bronze, fancy leaf variety with pink to orange spots, representing “a completely new color for caladiums,” according to the company. It is intermediate to tall in height, and works well in combinations, patio planters and landscapes, either in full sun or shade. The color is best expressed in the sun.
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NewGen Independence Boxwood (Buxus ‘SB108’ PP28888), discovered by a boxwood enthusiast in the Williamsburg, Virginia area and introduced by NewGen Boxwood, Saunders Genetics LLC. Independence was chosen for the NewGen brand based on very high tolerance to boxwood blight and strong performance in boxwood leafminer trials. It has a habit similar to Buxus
microphylla ‘Green Beauty’, but with more elongated leaves. It has rounded habit, deep green color and medium sized plant, and can be used in formal plantings where a medium sized round plant is desired. The branching structure is very strong, so it withstands snow loads. It is also deer resistant.
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SunFern Olympia Russian Wormwood (Artemisia gmellinii ‘Balfernlym’ PPAF), hybridized by Christa Klevit in the Netherlands and introduced by Darwin Perennials. This novelty evergreen shrub with fern-like textures can be used as an accent plant in containers or as a groundcover in the landscape. It is low maintenance, tolerates drought, and does well in full sun.
Taken from https://lgrmag.com/news/lavender-sensational-named-best-in-show-at-farwest/?oly_enc_id=3914G8573689C1W
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

​‘Burning Heart’ Sun Caladium

​NewGen Independence Boxwood

​SunFern Olympia Russian Wormwood

    We were just in a thunderstorm warning at 1:30 PM.  We had the wind, rain very hard, and lightning.  It came out of the direct west.  I haven't felt good all last night by hip and knee were hurting.  Hurt all morning long, till this storm went thru now the pain is gone.  I guess when the pain is so intense I know that the weather is going to change.  Temperature is down  to 70 degrees.  BUT I am thinking the humidity will still be around.  Summer thunderstorm.  HOW about YOU?    

  HOW TO DIVIDE IRISES AND REPLANT THEM IN THE GARDEN  By Robin Sweetser
The blooming of the bearded irises is something I eagerly await each spring. This year, I made a mental note that I should divide and replant the irises after flowering. The time is now!   Remember this is in first person because Robin wrote this, not me. 
Even though my irises were planted years ago and are terribly overgrown, the blossoms were still gorgeous this spring. But dividing bearded irises every three to five years allows the clump to rejuvenate and bloom better (not to mention a way to multiply your irises to fill in gap). Also, it’s helpful to avoid the iris borer which is a very destructive pest typically attracted to older, over-crowded gardens.  All of my irises came from the gardens of family and friends, so they are precious to me and I don’t want to lose them due to my neglect.
WHEN SHOULD YOU DIVIDE IRISES
It’s important to divide and replant at the right time of year. In many regions, July and August are the best months to dig, divide and transplant bearded irises. You can probably get away with dividing through mid-September, too. Do NOT divide in the spring. You must do this job post flowering, during the summer. This is hot, heavy work involving a lot of digging, so I waited until the weather cooled down a tad before starting. My goal was to rework the iris beds, add some compost, get rid of the invading sedums and tree roots, and divide and replant the crowded rhizomes.
The irises are getting crowded and encroached upon by pachysandra. The bed they are in is narrow and next to large rocks leaving the irises nowhere to go.
​Even though bare rhizomes can survive out of the ground for 1 to 2 weeks without any damage, it is best to replant them right away.
HOW TO DIVIDE BEARDED IRISES
First, dig the rhizomes up and check them for disease or insect damage. Try to dig carefully around the plants so as not to do any unnecessary damage to the rhizomes.  We found some borer damage and mushy rhizomes that were discarded.
Snap or cut off the old part of the rhizome, since it will not flower again.
The roots are quite long and will help anchor the newly planted rhizome in place.
Amend the soil with compost and dig a shallow hole or trench. Make a mound of soil in the middle to place the rhizome on, spread the roots out over the mound and cover them with soil.
 Leave the top of the rhizome exposed.
Next season’s plant emerges from the fan end of the rhizome so when replanting, face it in the direction you want plant growth to travel. Space the pieces 12 to 24 inches apart for tall types, closer for dwarf ones.
I planted mine closer, for a more immediate display, knowing that I will have to divide them again sooner.
It is easier to plant if you cut the tops back to about 6 inches tall.
PICTURE IMAGE
Water well to settle the soil around the roots and continue to water deeply once a week until new growth appears. Once established, bearded irises are drought-tolerant and won’t need additional watering. Fertilize early in spring and again right after blossoming with compost or a low nitrogen fertilizer.
 
It was sweaty work, even on a cool day, but so rewarding to see it done. We had enough leftover rhizomes to plant another bed on the other side of the stone wall. Next spring we should have twice the blossoms!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-divide-bearded-irises-pictures
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

​The irises are getting crowded and encroached upon by pachysandra. The bed they are in is narrow and next to large rocks leaving the irises nowhere to go

Snap or cut off the old part of the rhizome, since it will not flower again.
​

​The roots are quite long and will help anchor the newly planted rhizome in place.
Amend the soil with compost and dig a shallow hole or trench. Make a mound of soil in the middle to place the rhizome on, spread the roots out over the mound and cover them with soil.

​ Leave the top of the rhizome exposed.
Next season’s plant emerges from the fan end of the rhizome so when replanting, face it in the direction you want plant growth to travel. Space the pieces 12 to 24 inches apart for tall types, closer for dwarf ones.

​I planted mine closer, for a more immediate display, knowing that I will have to divide them again sooner.
It is easier to plant if you cut the tops back to about 6 inches tall

      This afternoon a little more humidity is coming in, and a little warmer.  BUT still nice out.  Partly cloudy skies with a nice breeze.  Temperature at 3:00 PM is at 84 degrees feels like 88 degrees. Tonight, a low of 59.  Looks like the temperature going up today and Thursday but only to 90 degrees.  Chance of showers on Friday….hope it does.  Continuing to water.  HOW about you?  I have had gardeners share their produce with us, so I have been using lots of fresh vegetables.  So good, so much fun to have them fresh. 

In this article they have not talked about the correct way to dead head petunias.  Here what I would say for you to do plus the advice from the Old World Garden Farms.    I have been giving several workshops and here is the information on one of them.  HOW to deadhead petunias.  I watch gardeners are they pick up their petunias and how they take care of the dead bloom.  Many just pull the bloom out of the stem, which is wrong because you are leaving the seed there to develop.  The plant wants to survive so all the energy will go into the seed and that is when they get lanky because of the reason to survive. So look at the picture that is what you need to pick off to stop the seed from developing and all the energy  going to make it survive.  Becky

Old World Garden Farms
How To Keep Petunias Blooming Strong – 3 Simple Secrets To Success!
Want to keep your petunias blooming strong, beautiful and vibrant all summer long? Believe it or not, it really is possible by employing a few simple growing tips that work like magic!
Petunias are one of the most popular summer annuals of all for growing in flowerbeds, containers and hanging baskets. From trailing varieties, to wave petunias and more, they can be found in a near endless variety to fill almost any need or space. Especially when you consider their wide range of colorful blooms!
But, as with many annuals, gardeners often find their petunias beginning to struggle by mid-summer. Plants once covered completely in blooms and flowers begin to have trouble just keeping their foliage from turning brown.
Petunias add big color and texture to any setting. With a full range of single, double and variegated bloom styles, they compliment any setting. Above, trailing petunias flow over the pots as a perfect companion to additional annual plantings.
Sadly, within a few weeks of the first signs of trouble, without help, plants simply wither away. The good news is in almost all cases, it simply doesn’t have to turn out that way!
In fact, when it comes to keeping petunias thriving all summer long, 3 simple secrets really can make all the difference between throwing your plants out in mid-summer, or enjoying their blooms into late fall!
3 Simple Secrets To Keep Petunias Blooming All Summer
#1) Fertilize – Slow, Steady & Consistently
More than anything else, petunias need a slow and steady diet of nutrients to keep producing blooms and flowers.
As a heavy flowering annual, petunias quickly deplete the resources available in the soil around their roots. And without replenishing those nutrients, they will inevitably begin to slowly weaken over time.
In order to keep petunias blooming, you need to supply them with energy. Not only will fertilizer help them continue to grow good foliage, but it will also help the plant produce more blooms and flowers.
But the secret key to long term success is how and when you replenish those nutrients. Unfortunately, many fertilizers provide too much power too quickly. Especially when they are over-used.
This might result in massive blooms and growth at first, but spells big trouble for the plants over time. Plants that grow too fast with a massive burst of nutrients are like a shooting star. Brilliant for a moment, but quick to fail and die out not long after their show.
Fertilizing Right
All of that power leads to too much growth too fast. And it is simply not sustainable for the plant. Especially when there is limited soil space in container and basket plants.
And that is where the slow and steady approach works wonders. Because of this, it is far better to feed your petunias (and all annual flowers for that matter) with a light but consistent feeding.
If you are using a high quality liquid or granular all-purpose fertilizer, dilute the solution to 1/4 or 1/2 of the recommended dose and apply every 10 to 14 days. Even better, use compost tea or worm casting tea weekly to provide a more balanced dose of power to your plants.
Using an all-purpose fertilizer in smaller doses is a great way to keep plants blooming strong, without the worry of overgrowth. Too much energy can actually shorten the overall lifespan of your petunias.
Remember- it’s far better to give them a slow and steady boost of nutrients to keep them in top shape – in place of that quick burst that can send plants into a frenzy.
#2) Deadheading Old Blooms – How To Keep Petunias Blooming All Summer
Not only do old blooms look unsightly on plants, they also can rob it of vital nutrients. As with most annuals, petunia plants continue to spend resources attempting to heal and fix old blooms. Resources that instead could be used for producing new blooms and flowers.
Deadheading (the process of removing spent flowers) your petunias is one of the best ways of all to keep those flowers coming on.
By simply taking off the older blooms that are beginning to fail, the plant can concentrate all of it’s energy on growing healthy foliage and more flowers. And it couldn’t be easier to do!
Petunias happen to be one of the easiest of all annual to deadhead. There is no need to cut stems or use tools of any kind. Simply give a slight pull to an old flower and it instantly dislodges from the plant.
It’s actually quite therapeutic to do! Deadhead your plants every few days and you will be amazed at how much energy the plant retains throughout the growing season.
#3) Give Them Room To Grow – How To Keep Petunias Blooming All Summer
And finally, if you want your petunias to keep on flowering all summer long – you have to give them room to grow. And by room, we are talking about soil space for their roots.
Plants draw and take in nearly all of their nutrients and water from their roots. And if there is little to no soil for them left to expand, the plant will begin to fail. No matter how much you try to feed or water it!
Although good soil for ground planted petunias is important, this is especially vital with container and hanging basket petunias. By mid-summer, many container plants simply run out of soil for roots to expand and grow.
When a plant becomes root bound, it is time for re-potting. Either place into a larger container, or plant it directly into a flowerbed.
Have you ever went to water a plant in mid-summer and watched the water instantly roll through the bottom? It is most likely the result of a root bound plant. Meaning, the roots have expanded so much, they can no longer find a way or the space to grow.
Re-Potting Petunias – How To Keep Petunias Blooming All Summer
The only remedy for this is to replant your petunias into a larger vessel, or into the ground so they can expand. And the quicker you do it, the more chance your petunia plants will have to keep on blooming!
When replanting, always try to select a vessel that is 2 times as large as the original. This will allow plenty of space for the petunias to stay strong for the remainder of the season.
And if your plants are simply too big for a new pot or basket? Why not plant them directly into a flowerbed! You will be amazed at the renewed energy and life the petunias will have from new soil.
Here is to keeping your petunias blooming strong and vibrant all summer long! Happy Gardening – Jim and Mary.
Taken from https://oldworldgardenfarms.com/2021/06/24/keep-petunias-blooming
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

image from Essential oils. com 

     ​What a grand weekend we had for weather.  Temperatures in the 70’s and that low humidity.  MADE for man times sitting outside and just enjoying the weather.  Today is going to be another grand day.  Looks the humidity and warm is coming back but not like the heat indictors will be in the 100’s.  HOPE that is over with for this season.
 I will be freezing some corn today.  Also still working on getting my website domain moved to a site to continue having my website. This has been such a learning curve with how this all works, and all the terminology what it means.  I kind of  know what is going on in the web hosting business. So far the website is still up and running and I hope it will continue when I get the website hosting work completed. 
 This has I have been hearing that the peppers this year are doing well.  Their growth so depends on the weather, so I guess they like it hot, humid.  BUT also, they like moisture so for the ones that have been getting peppers have you been watering? 
I have just put in this blog the taking care, harvesting of the peppers.  You don’t need to know how to grow because you have been doing that all season.  ENJOY your peppers and all your harvest this season.  IT is time to reap our harvest. 
CARE
WATERING PEPPERS
Peppers should never be allowed to struggle and soil moisture is especially important in this regard. Peppers like a good dousing but should be left to almost dry out between waterings – they need that period of relative dry. Once a week is typical. If the leaves have gone a bit limp, you’ve probably left it a little too long, but a thorough watering should sort things out.
If you’re growing in pots you can gauge whether the potting mix is dry enough by lifting the container to check its weight – it should be noticeably lighter, by pushing a finger into the soil to feel for moisture about an inch down.
If you live in a warm or desert climate, or are simply experiencing a hot, dry summer, watering everyday may be necessary. Peppers are susceptible to blossom-end rot if watering is not adequate.
FERTILIZING PEPPERS
Peppers will need regular feeding using a liquid feed that’s high in potassium to promote flower production and fruit set – a tomato fertilizer works well. A liquid seaweed with a good range of trace minerals works well, too. A lack of these minerals, together with over watering, is a common cause of yellowing leaves.
After the first fruit set, fertilize with a low-nitrogen fertilizer. (Too much nitrogen can cause the plant to produce foliage instead of flowers and fruit!)
MORE PLANT CARE TIPS
Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.
In cooler, temperate climates or it gets windy where you live, consider growing your peppers under some form of protection. Peppers love this extra warmth. However, if it gets very hot, this can cause flowers to abort and drop, so move plants back outside when temperatures soar.
PESTS/DISEASES
Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and above 90°F (32°C). Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting. Flower drop is caused by high heat OR very low humidity. If the air is very dry, douse the soil with water and thoroughly mist plants.
Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites – identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves – thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites.
Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites – identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves – thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites
Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush or blast the aphids off with a hose.
Pest/Disease     Type      Symptoms          Control/Prevention
Anthracnose      Fungus Yellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, plants rot    Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost for nutrition; use mulch; practice crop rotation. Find images and more information about anthracnose here.
Aphids Insect    Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plants         Grow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators. Find images and more information about aphids here.
Blossom-end Rot              Nutrient Deficiency         Caused by lack of sufficient calcium uptake.
Symptoms: dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (the side opposite the stem) may enlarge and become sunken, leathery, rotted               Remove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; avoid damaging roots. Find more images and information about blossom-end rot here.
Colorado Potato Beetles               Insect    Yellow-orange eggs laid in clusters on leaf undersides; larvae and adults chew holes in foliage  Remove eggs/larvae/beetles by hand; use straw mulch; weed around plants; use row covers; destroy plant matter at end of season; practice crop rotation
Flea Beetles       Insect    Numerous tiny holes in leaves (as if they had been hit by a tiny shotgun) Use row covers to physically block flea beetles; mulch heavily; add native plants to attract beneficial insect predators. Find more information and images of flea beetles here.
Mosaic Virus (Cucumber)             Virus      Symptoms vary, but may include: stunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruit          Often spread by aphids. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect gardening tools after each use; keep garden weed-free; use mulch. Find images and more information about mosaic viruses here.
Root-knot Nematodes   Insect    Roots become “knotted” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wilted               Destroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotation
Tomato Hornworms       Insect    Chewed leaves (initially toward top of plant); rapid defoliation; black/green excrement; gouged fruit               Check undersides of leaves for hornworms, remove by hand and dispose of hornworms. (If you encounter hornworms that have white, ricelike cocoons on their backs, relocate them instead; the cocoons belong to beneficial parasitic wasps.) Till soil in autumn and spring; companion plant with dill/basil/marigolds to attract (and trap) or repel hornworms; spray plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Find images and more information about hornworms here.
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW TO HARVEST PEPPERS
Once the plants begin producing fruits, pick them promptly, the moment they have reached their full size and color. Regular picking encourages plants to produce more flowers and, of course, more fruits.
That said, the longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their vitamin C content.
Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant.
HOW TO STORE PEPPERS
Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
Gluts of bell peppers can be dried whole in a dehydrator or any warm place with good airflow. If you just have a conventional, here are directions on how to dry peppers for storage:
Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140°F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions.
When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers or airtight jars. Or, chop peppers up for packing into ice-cube trays. Freeze them then pop them out into freezer bags ready for dropping into recipes as needed.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!
Green peppers that turn Red: ‘Lady Bell’, ‘Gypsy’, ‘Bell Boy’, ‘Lipstick’
…Orange: ‘Milena’, ‘Orange Sun’
…Yellow: ‘Golden California Wonder’
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/bell-peppers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from potterybarn.com

Today Friday the 13th of August is a lovely day here in Dougherty Iowa.  Temperature is at 64 degrees, low humidity, blue clear sky.  I would say it is going to be an almost perfect summer day.  With the hot and humidity weather we have been having, this is what we need to give us time outside and to work in our gardens.  I will go back to planting today.  I have tons of succulents to replant and plant.   It looks like I might need to do some watering, but haven’t watered all week.  All weekend it is going to be like this so ENJOY…

Here is some advice about your hanging baskets if they are struggling.   Good luck if you need to redo your hanging baskets. 
​
Old World Garden Farms
How To Save Struggling Hanging Baskets – 2 Simple Secrets To Success!
So is it really possible to save struggling hanging baskets and bring them back to life? You bet it is!
The secret to success all lies in recognizing the specific cause, and taking swift corrective action to remedy it. And when it comes to hanging baskets, those issues can usually be traced to an overgrown and stressed out root structure.
Saving a struggling hanging basket means taking swift action before it’s too late.
Diagnosing The Problem – How To Save A Struggling Hanging Basket
The first step is to make sure your plant is not suffering from a simple lack of attention. Whether that be too much or too little water, or a lack of nutrients.
Those issues can easily be remedied, simply by applying the right amount of fertilizer, and watering on a regular, regimented schedule. (see : How To Fertilize Hanging Baskets For Success)
Hanging baskets need to be fertilized regularly to keep producing blooms.
But in many cases, even the most well cared for hanging baskets begin to fade fast by early summer. And for these plants, no amount of water or fertilizer is going to help.
It can certainly be frustrating. Especially for gardeners who have worked hard to care for their plants.
Mid-Summer Hanging Basket Failure
When a well-cared for plant suddenly begins to lose its luster in early or mid-summer, the cause is almost always overgrown roots in an undersized container.
Once a plant’s roots have become wound tightly together, it is nearly impossible for them to absorb water or nutrients.
When a plant becomes root bound, it is hard for it to absorb any nutrients or water.
When this happens, water simply runs right through the basket. As do any fertilizers applied to the plant as well. Unfortunately, at this point, no amount of soaking will allow the plant to absorb enough of either to flower, let alone survive for the long term.
This is actually quite common with hanging baskets purchased in early spring from nurseries and greenhouses.
Greenhouses start their plants early to get them blooming for sale. These plants often need to be replanted by mid-summer to continue thriving.
To get the plants showy and beautiful for customers, these plants are started as far back as December. And by mid-summer, they have simply grown too big for their container.
But whatever you do, don’t throw that plant out! Although it may seem like the end of the line, there are 2 simple methods to get your plants blooming again.
2 Ways To Save Struggling Hanging Baskets
Repotting
The first and best option to bring your hanging basket back to life is to replant it into a larger vessel.
Unfortunately, most commercial hanging baskets are sold with 10 to 12″ pots as their growing container. To make it through an entire growing season, baskets should be at minimum 14 to 16″ in size.
Select a new basket or container with at least 1/4 more growing space. The more room the better. This gives plenty of space for roots to expand out and bring in nutrients quickly.
Next, fill the bottom of the basket with a high quality potting soil. Before sitting the root ball into the new basket, be sure to loosen the tightly wound roots. Gently break apart the bottom of the roots, taking care to keep them intact to the root ball.
This allows the plant to breath and grow into the new soil. And as it does so, it will be able to soak in the nutrients and water it needs to thrive once again.
Finish by filling the remainder of the pot with potting soil, and then giving the plant a good watering along with a dose of liquid fertilizer. This boost of nutrients will help the plant to re-flourish quickly. (Product Link : Miracle Grow Organics Plant Food)
Replanting
So what happens if you are trying to save a hanging basket that is simply too large to find a suitable basket or container?
Once again, don’t throw that plant away! Instead, replant it directly into your landscape for a huge splash of annual color.
Over-sized hanging baskets and container plants can have an incredible second life when directly planted into flowerbeds or garden areas. Simply remove the plant from the container, gently loosen the root ball, and plant.
Replant oversized hanging basket plants right into flowerbeds to give news life and a big splash of instant color.
Just like when replanting, give the plant plenty of water and a dose of liquid fertilizer to jump-start it’s growth. With all of the new space and soil available, you will be amazed at how quickly the plant bounces back to life!
Here is to saving those struggling hanging baskets, and to keeping those blooms coming on all summer long! Happy Gardening, Jim and Mary
Taken from https://oldworldgardenfarms.com/2020/05/28/struggling-hanging-baskets
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from meteroshowertonight.com 

      ​       LOOK up tonight to see this Perseids meteor shower.  With a clear sky for us here in Iowa, it should be a good show.  BUT look up wherever you are to see if you can see this event. 
PERSEID METEOR SHOWER 2021
HOW AND WHEN TO SEE THE PERSEIDS THIS AUGUST
By The Editors
The Perseid Meteor Shower is going to put on quite a show August 11 to 13—with 50 meteors per hour! And 2021 is the year to catch a shooting star because the event isn’t happening near a full Moon so there won’t be any moon glare. This will probably be the best meteor shower of the year. Just look up—and bring your sense of wonder and curiosity. See more viewing tips.
WHEN IS THE PERSEID METEOR SHOWER?
The Perseid meteor shower occurs every year from about July 23 to August 22, but reach their peak from late midnight August 11 to dawn August 13.
The shower’s peak or “maximum” is when the greatest number of meteors per hour fall (50 per hour)—is typically in the pre-dawn hours (when it’s still dark).
HOW AND WHEN TO SEE THE PERSEIDS IN 2021
You can view meteor showers from anywhere in the world. It doesn’t matter what state or country you live in. The best times to watch the Perseids is late at night, in the middle of the night, or predawn. The meteor count is usually highest predawn when the skies are at their very darkest and when your position on Earth is forward to the motion through the dust cloud.
And the best news? In 2021, the Moon phases work out perfectly for dark skies! There won’t be any moonlight to ruin the Perseids’ show. The New Moon happens just a few days prior to the Perseids’ peak, and the waxing crescent phase will set by early-to-mid evening as well
WHAT EXACT IS THE PERSEID METEOR SHOWER?
Meteors, also known as falling or shooting stars, are caused by tiny dust trains entering Earth’s atmosphere from space. Meteor showers occur regularly each year when the Earth crosses the orbit of a comet and its debris enters the atmosphere. The Perseid shower is associated with the Swift-Tuttle comet. When the tiny bits of dust trains strike Earth’s upper atmosphere, friction with the air causes each particle to heat and burn up. We see the result as a meteor. See more facts about meteor showers.
The Perseid meteor shower occurs every August, and its fame comes from the fact that it reliably has the brightest and most numerous meteors. Even if the viewing conditions aren’t the best, you’re likely to spot some meteors during the maximum nights of the Perseid meteor shower.
The Perseid shower is named for the constellation Perseus, which is its radiant. A radiant is the point of origin of the meteor shower, so the Perseid meteors will appear to be traveling away from the constellation Perseus in the night sky. Locating Perseus might therefore help you to see as many meteors as possible.
The Perseid meteors radiate from the Perseus constellation. Photo Credit: Adam Block/University of Arizona.
VIEWING TIPS FOR THE PERSEID METEOR SHOWER
Normally, the best time to watch is between midnight and dawn. In 2021, the Perseids will be visible all night thanks to a dark, moonless sky. See your local moonrise and set times!
Watching a meteor shower could not be simpler. Just go outside on the night(s) of the Perseid meteor shower “maximum” and look up!
You can maximize your chances of seeing meteors by finding an open area far from man-made lights. Of course, cloud cover can prevent you from seeing the shower.
Get away from light pollution! You’ll want to avoid city lights. Any hill out in the countryside works. Mountaintops are also great viewing locations because they are usually at a high enough altitude to reduce haze from air and light pollution. Plan a drive or a camping trip!
Gaze at whatever part of the sky is darkest at your location. Though it might be tempting, avoid using binoculars or a telescope. It is better to look at the whole sky than a tiny part of it, and your eyes will automatically move toward any motion up above. Avoid looking at your cell phone or other lights during the meteor shower, as this will damage your night vision.
While the shower is best when moonlight is absent, you can still watch for shooting stars if the Moon’s around. Just try to face away from the Moon when looking for meteors. Its light pollution will affect the whole sky, but it will be worse closer to the Moon.
You’ll need about 20 minutes for your eyes to adapt to the darker skies, so get out earlier and be patient.
Being comfortable is important. To avoid a stiff neck, bring a chaise lounge or reclining lawn chair. A sleeping bag on the ground works, too. Find a slight incline so that your head will be higher than your feet. Bring an extra layer of clothes if you’re worried about being cold; when you are sitting or lying outside at night, your body heat radiates directly into the sky.
Worried about a meteor hitting Earth while you’re watching? Here’s why you shouldn’t be worried.
HISTORY OF THE PERSEIDS & COMET SWIFT-TUTTLE
The Perseids are the legacy of Comet Swift-Tuttle, discovered in 1862 by Lewis Swift and Horace Parnell Tuttle. The comet passes through the inner Solar System, where Earth is located, only once every 133 years. Each August, Earth encounters the trail of debris left behind by Swift-Tuttle, and we are treated to one of the best meteor showers of the year.
The rate at which the meteors fall is determined by where Comet Swift-Tuttle is in relation to Earth when Earth crosses Swift-Tuttle’s orbit. The concentration of meteors is higher when the comet is near Earth. In the early 20th century, the peak rate of the Perseid meteor shower was as low as 4 meteors per hour. When Swift-Tuttle was very close to Earth in 1993, however, the peak rate was between 200 and 500 meteors per hour.
The first record of the Perseid meteor shower comes from a Chinese manuscript written in A.D. 36. The Italian astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli linked the Perseid shower to Comet Swift-Tuttle in 1866, four years after the comet was detected by modern astronomers
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/perseid-meteor-shower
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

     IT IS HUMID, MUGGY, UNCOMFORTABLE all ready at 8:00 AM.  Humidity is at 90%, but the temperature is only 79 degrees.   With all of this it feels like 86 degrees.  Hard to breath, and just uncomfortable.  Hard to work a long time outside in the gardens, stay safe, drink water, and cool down when you can. 
Just filling in on what I have been doing the last 2 days.  I feel like an IT technician working on computer stuff, credit card stuff.  The company that had my domain name for the website Beckysgreenhouse.com is not offering the service after Sept 1st.  So, looking for a new host for that.  You don’t know how small you are till you talk to companies that do over 500,000 dollars for websites and hosting.  I don’t think that would fit this small greenhouse business.  I have found one that will host my beckysgreenhouse.com.  Now just getting it transfer over today.  So many technologic names that are used it is confusing, and I know the ones I talk to think DON”T YOU KNOW….but I just ask lots of questions.  I will let you know when this happens and should not affect the website at all for you looking at it or my blog page I post. 
We have had 2 inches of rain since Thursday the 5th.  Looks like we are on the edge of another storm watch today for more rain, wind, hail and bad weather.  Close to us, like 25 miles they received 9” of rain Sunday night now that is too much at once.  Hopefully they will miss this rain, and can dry up some. 
​
I don’t know if this is a problem with your tomatoes.  BUT if you have lots of blossoms and no fruit here is the information on that. 
WHY ISN'T MY TOMATO PLANT PRODUCING FRUIT?
LOTS OF FLOWERS, BUT NOT ENOUGH FRUIT ON TOMATO PLANTS
Are you seeing lots of flowers on your tomatoes but not enough red fruit? From lack of pollination to extreme heat, there are some reasons why this happens, but also most are addressable. See our article (with video demo) to find out how to get more tomatoes—and reap the fruit of your labors!
LACK OF POLLINATION
While other fruiting vegetables like squash produce separate male and female flowers, tomatoes have flowers with both male and female parts. This means they’re self-fertile and can pollinate themselves. But while that’s technically the case, you’ll get much better fruit set if pollinating insects – and especially bumblebees – enter the mix.
Bumblebees ‘buzz pollinate’: Their wings flap up and down at a frequency that creates their famous low, audible buzz–and it’s this buzz that produces a vibration, so that when they visit a flower the pollen is shaken free from the male part to drift down onto the waiting female stigma. We want more bumblebees, so make sure they can get at the flowers!
*If you’re growing under cover, open up greenhouse or tunnel vents, windows and doors. And encourage more pollinators into the area by planting nectar-rich flowers among your tomatoes!)
You can also improve fruit set by hand pollinating. Now you could go from flower to flower with a small artist’s paint brush like this – and that would work, but a far more practical solution to dislodge the pollen to fertilize the female parts of the flower is to simply twang or tap on plant supports. By vibrating the flowers, you are mimicking the actions of a bumblebee to greatly enhanced pollination success!
EXTREME HEAT
Many gardeners struggle with extreme summer heat–and so can our tomatoes. When it gets too hot pollen becomes sterile, especially if nighttime temperatures fail to drop below about 77 Fahrenheit.
All you can really do is hold out for temperatures to fall away again. If your plants are under cover help them keep their cool by leaving windows, doors and vents wide open and perhaps adding blinds, cloth or greenhouse shading paint to filter out some of the sunshine.    
HIGH/LOW HUMIDITY
If getting just the right temperature wasn’t enough to contend with, sometimes it can be a bit too humid… or dry for our tomatoes! Those close, uncomfortable conditions that come with high humidity can make pollen sticky, so that it clumps together and fails to drop onto the female stigma. Very dry conditions have the opposite effect–the flowers just aren’t moist enough for the pollen to properly stick, so it simply rolls off.
There isn’t much you can do about high levels of humidity other than ensure adequate ventilation and plenty of space between plants to help along airflow.
Pruning off some of the lower leaves can help air to circulate better too.
If bone dry air is your issue, however, be sure to keep plants properly watered and the humidity around your plants should remain more stable as excess moisture evaporates. Ensuring enough water will also give plants the resources required to fully swell their fruits, while reducing the risk of them simply dropping off.
If you’re growing under cover, splashing water onto paving– known as ‘damping down’–will also help increase humidity.
NOT ENOUGH LIGHT
If your tomato plants have lots of lush foliage but few flowers then consider light levels. Tomatoes love a sunny spot and will only do their thing if they receive a minimum of six hours direct sunshine a day. Dull weather presents a temporary challenge, but if you’ve planted them in a less-than-sunny position you may be best moving your plants to somewhere sunnier, because more sunlight means more energy to grow those fruits.
INCORRECT NUTRITION
Finally, check what you’re feeding your tomatoes. Once the first flowers appear you need to be applying some sort of organic fertilizer that has a good level of both potassium and trace elements like magnesium. This will help to encourage exactly what we’re after: more flowers and better fruit set.
Use a product such as a liquid tomato feed or seaweed concentrate. This will help to promote healthier plants, reduce the risk of blossom end rot, and will up the final nutritional value of the fruits themselves. Most feeds are applied about once every two weeks by measuring out and diluting the concentrate according to the packet instructions, then watering it on at the base of the plants.
And don’t forget to aim for exemplary soil health anyhow, by incorporating plenty of well-rotted organic matter into your soil at least once a year. This will build up a thriving community of soil life, which in turn will help to support all your plants, including those lovely tomatoes!
https://www.almanac.com/video/why-isnt-my-tomato-plant-producing-fruit
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

Sun patients, BIG leaf begonias, zinnias are the colors you see. 

On the tall racks are succulents, cactus, houseplants.  

Succulents, spider plants add texture and that green color to your garden in a group..

Here is a big container of BIG leaf red bronze leaf begonias. 

You need to remember these red plants for baskets, containers or landscape.  The BIG Leaf begonias.  They come in dark leaf, green leaf and different colors.  These are all BIG Leaf red bronze begonias.  Easy, impressive and color for your gardens. 

peppers growing in a large pot.  These are the baby bell peppers.

     ​We had some sprinkles last night.  It is going to hot, humid and more rain/storms tonight.  BUT we need the rain so this is good.  I am going to be working on my containers in my garden this morning, so I thought I would post this article about how to take care of your containers.  I will post pictures after I work in the garden about my containers.  I am so enjoying them.  I have noticed some of the garden centers said they didn’t plant till June which is what we did.  BUT have lots of color for us now.  How are your containers?  Your garden?  Hope you are enjoying all your hard work of gardening.  August, Sept are the months that we reap our work.  ENJOY, Stay safe. 
10 TIPS FOR MAINTAINING YOUR CONTAINER GARDENS OUTDOORS
KEEP CONTAINER PLANTS LOOKING THEIR BEST  By Doreen G. Howard
Keep your foliage and flower container plants looking their best throughout the summer! Whether you have patio planters or window boxes, here are 10 tips to maintain you container garden and also help you prepare your containers for colder weather.
Pretty planters are wonderful as a welcome entrance to your home. In addition, container gardening with edibles is a great solution for those who may not be able to have a traditional garden in the ground.
However, containers do need to be maintained. Little things can doom them, but attention to details will guarantee perfection.
CONTAINER GARDENING MAINTENANCE
Mulch container surfaces to prevent soil compaction or root damage. Heavy rains and high-pressure hose blasts can dislodge potting mix and damage roots or pound the surface creating a hard crust through which water has a difficult time penetrating. Sphagnum moss, aquarium gravel, pebbles and shredded cedar bark are all attractive barriers that thwart these problems. Cedar bark has an added advantage. It contains a resin, which gives it a pleasant aroma that repels many insects. So does cocoa bean mulch.
Pinch annuals when you plant to force branching. Impatiens and begonias especially benefit from an early pinch. Plants grow bushier and produce more flowers of better quality. Pinch again about six weeks later, after the first heavy flush of blooms is spent for another spectacular show. Pinch the flower stems back to just above a leaf or bud.
Deadhead old flowers to promote new flower formation and to prevent seeds from forming which stops the bloom cycle. Geraniums (Pelargonium), dahlias, nicotiana, verbena and osteospermum, particularly, need deadheading. Prune leggy stems back to buds or branches and removing off-colored and damaged foliage.
Water frequently. Since containers don’t benefit from ground moisture, it’s important to water as often as once daily. In hot, dry weather, you may need to water twice a day. This is especially true for closely-spaced plants packed into a small volume of soil. When you water, be sure to saturate all the soil in the pot-not just around the edges. If you find that your containers a drying out too quickly, perhaps you have too much plant for the soil in the pot. If your plants are crowded (or just look past their prime) pull them out.
Fertilize regularly. In containers, there is limited soil and frequent watering so providing nutrients is essential for growing plants or they’ll weaken. Mix slow-release fertilizer pellets into the potting soil. Then, add additional nutrients throughout the growing season by dissolving a water-soluble fertilizer in the watering can once every week or two. Use a one-half to one-quarter strength dilution, or follow package instructions. 
Be a neat housekeeper and remove plant debris from containers. If left, decaying leaves and blooms often foster diseases and invite insects.
Keep trailing and climbing plants in check by occasionally trimming them. Otherwise ramblers like dichondra, ivy, helichrysum petiolare and even petunias will climb over and smother their neighbors.
Rotate containers to encourage plants on all sides to grow evenly and don’t get too leggy.
As the seasons change, move your containers if necessary to keep the plants protected from very hot sun as well sheltered from strong winds. Tip for future planting: Lighten the load of a heavy pot by filling the bottom quarter of huge pots with recycled foam peanuts that come in shipping cartons. Then fill with potting mix. The peanuts create big air pockets and increase drainage, both things that encourage strong root development.
You can keep your container going by changing out the plants as the seasons change. For example, plant bulbs and primroses in the spring, annual flowers and vegetables in the summer, and then pansies and colorful cabbage or kale in autumn.
PREPARING FOR WINTER
Most container plants aren’t winter-hardy. Even container perennials and trees can’t tolerate roots that freeze in their pots. Also, many types of pots will crack in frozen weather. (Consider choosing plastic pots that are non-porous and also reduce your watering chores during the season!)
If you live in a cold climate, you can treat your containers as annuals and throw them out or compost the soil. Or, you may be able to store your plants inside the pot in an unheated but not freezing garage or basement. See our advice on how to overwinter geraniums, roses, and other plants.
Also, remember to clean old containers thoroughly before using them for a second season. Add bleach to the wash water and use a scrub bush to get into cracks and crannies. A clean pot won’t transmit diseases to new plants. See how to clean and store pots for winter.
A lifelong gardener shares the endless lessons she’s learned from her garden over the years, in hopes of making your own gardening just that much easier!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/container-gardening-maintenance
Till next time,this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

Japanese Beetle
​

potato beetle 

horn worms

spider mites

aphids 
​all images from wikipedia.org 

 ​Sun is out, it is getting warmer 85 degrees at 1:30 PM, and humidity is climbing up.  Good old summer day.  We had ½ of rain so that will help.  I don’t have to water today.  I am working with succulents and they love this warmer weather that is for sure.  I have been hearing you having a battle with insects. I have Japanese beetles on the grapes, rose buds, and Linden tree.   I found this article very helpful with identifying them.  Good luck
What’s Eating My Leaf?
Sometimes it can seem like your garden is a battlefield where you have to constantly be on the lookout, waging war against all those pests that want to eat your plants. Here are six common garden pests that you will probably encounter in your Iowa garden.
Japanese Beetle
Japanese beetles are about half an inch long, and they have reddish-copper wings with a metallic green head. These pests are an invasive species and will eat the leaf, flowers, and fruit of plants. They also lay their larvae in the turf, which can cause browning (also known as grubs—and they are not conducive to a healthy lawn).
These pests chew holes in leaves, making them look like lace. If they’ve laid larvae in the turf, there will be spots that turn brown. Mostly they’re a cosmetic problem, but they can defoliate a plant to the point of death during years of heavy beetle population numbers.
In late June or Early July, knock the beetles off your plants into a bucket of soapy water. Check the tops and bottoms of leaves. A neem solution can be a deterrent if you don’t have a large infestation. It’s not a great idea to use insecticide since it will also kill other essential insects.
Potato Beetle
Colorado potato beetles are about ⅓ of an inch long. They have a round, hard shell with a cream background with brown stripes down the back, and spots on their head.
Potato beetles can do damage to potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and tobacco plants. These pests will turn the foliage of your plants into skeletons, eating all the soft tissue between the leaf ribs.
Potato beetles may be around all growing season, so keep your eyes open—row covers for potatoes and crop rotation help. Products like BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) and neem oil also work well. Handpick them as you see them, crushing them or dropping them into soapy water.
Hornworms
Hornworms are a caterpillar that is usually shades of yellow to white. They have horns on the last segment of their body, and will have white marks down their sides.
These pests defoliate plants, usually starting at the top; as they get bigger, they get faster, and can devour an entire plant.
Handpick and drop them into soapy water; they camouflage well. You can till the soil late in the fall to disturb any burrowing for winter. If you find hornworms that have many projections from their body, leave them be. They’ve been parasitized by braconid wasps which will help kill more of them.
Spider Mites
These teeny-tiny pests are hard to spot, but they leave a fine webbing that you usually notice first. They are usually red; if you shake an infested plant over a piece of paper, you may see a bunch of tiny red dots.
Spider mites feast on the most tender parts of lush plants. Foliage will have a speckled appearance, and the entire leaf may turn yellow and die. The webbing will be in the nooks and crannies of stems and leaves.
They’re mostly problematic when the weather is hot and dry. Encourage beneficial insects in your gardens like ladybugs and beneficial nematodes. You can spray them off with water, treat them with neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Aphids
Aphids are tiny little pear-shaped pests that can be green, yellow, brown, red, black, or gray. Some fly, and some don’t.
They attack all sorts of plants, particularly younger, lush growth. Similar to spider mites, they suck the plant’s sap out from the underside of the leaves. Leaves will twist, curl, and turn yellow. There may be spots of droplets of honeydew on the leaves below where the aphids are.
Make your garden welcoming for ladybugs. If you start plants from seed, watch them. You can spray the aphids off your seedlings with a spray bottle. Older and stronger plants can take a stronger spray from the hose. You’ll need to repeat the treatment 2-3 times a week until they’re gone.
Figure Out What’s Eating that Leaf ASAP!
Early identification and treatment of these pests is key to keeping your plants safe and growing well. If you’re seeing signs of a pest chowing down on a leaf, you can bring pictures of the damage and the pest to the garden center (in a tightly sealed bag) or submit samples to the ISU extension Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic. There are specific guidelines for how to submit samples.
Taken from https://tedsgardens.com/whats-eating-my-leaf
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365