image from daringgoumet.com

      BOY is it hot out.  It was nice early this morning, very little humidity but now the heat is coming on from that sun.  It is now 10:00 AM and really heating up. I am working in the garden area with watering, moving plants and getting plants ready for the Herb Fest on Sunday.  That is in Greene, Iowa at the City Park.  Hope you can stop and say hi to us.  I will work this morning, then go home and work in the A/C this afternoon. Stay cool, drink, and stay safe. 

I just picked some peppers that were growing in the little pots.  Unbelievable how they produce in a small amount of dirt and small plants.  I have talked about growing peppers, now here is a way of preserving if you have too many. I will try this tomorrow( Saturday). 
​
Reminds me of this nursery rhyme
Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.
A peck of pickled peppers Peter Piper picked.
If Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers,
Where’s the peck of pickled peppers that Peter Piper picked?
Pickled Peppers
A pint of pickled peppers (say that three times fast!). Easy and delicious, these pickled peppers are always a hit! While many people think of cucumbers for their pickling, pickling peppers is catching on… and for good reason! Add their tangy flavor to a salad or a charcuterie board or enjoy them on their own as a snack.
This small recipe is ideal for preserving a small harvest of peppers from your garden, but it is also easy to size up if you had a bumper crop this year. Just grab some vinegar and go!
You can use any variety of pepper, we love to use sweet bell peppers, banana peppers, or cherry reds. To add a kick, put a whole hot pepper, such as a jalapeño pepper, in the middle of the jar. Just make a couple of slits in the hot pepper with a knife. The more slits, the spicier the result. (For less spice, remove the seeds.)
Ingredients
1 teaspoon pickling salt
1 tablespoon sugar
2 cloves garlic, peeled
4 cups seeded, sliced peppers (sweet red, yellow, and green, and a few hot peppers if desired)
1-1/4 cups white vinegar
1 cup water
Instructions
Place the salt, sugar, and garlic in one sterilized quart jar or in two-pint jars. Pack the peppers firmly into the jar with the skins facing out. Bring the vinegar and water to a boil in a saucepan. Pour the hot vinegar-water solution filling the jar(s) within ½-inch of the top (head space).
Place a washed and dried lid on the jar(s) and screw the band on each jar finger tight. Process in a boiling-water bath canner for 15 minutes for quarts and 10 minutes for pints. Start counting the processing time when the water starts to boil. Learn more about the process of water-bath canning.
When processed, remove from the canner and set aside to cool on a towel. Do not disturb for 12 to 24 hours.  Test the lids for proper sealing by pressing down gently with your finger in the center of lid. If jars did not seal, refrigerate and let flavors develop for several days.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/recipe/pickled-peppers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337   cell  641-903-9365

image from interestingfact.com 

Another warm day.  Heat well over 100 degrees with the humidity.  I have already worked at the greenhouse and almost finishing watering.  It takes lots of water when it is so warm.  I need to do the plants at the house.  I forgot some of the baskets so they are telling me they need a drink.  How are your gardens?  We can spend lots of time watering when we haven’t had any rain.  Hope you are set up to make that a little easier to do that.  I use the water sprinklers on wheels that Larry made that goes by each wagon and then I just plug in the hose and turn them on. 
​
I haven’t seen many earwigs this season?  Is this a problem?  Here is some information about them.    
These menacing-looking insects don’t have a thing for ears or wigs, but they will certainly go after garden plants. Here are tips for how to identify, prevent, and get rid of earwigs, also known as “pincher bugs,” in the garden.
What Are Earwigs?
Earwigs can be found in almost any growing zone, although they are more likely to inhabit warm, humid climates. You might have trouble spotting one—not only are they quick movers, they are also nocturnal and tend to hide out during the day when you are tending the garden. They like decaying wood and plant material, and dark, damp spaces. Oftentimes, they can be found in basements and woodpiles.
Earwigs are the sole members of the insect order Dermaptera, ancient bugs that began crawling around Earth about 208 million years ago. Today, nearly 2,000 species are scattered everywhere but in Earth’s polar regions. The name “earwig” comes from the Old English ear-wicga, which means “ear wiggler”—so named because the insect was once thought to seek out human ears to reside in. In France, they’re called “ear piercers” (perce-orielles) and in Germany, “ear worms” (Ohrwürmer).
 
In North America, we’re most familiar with Forficula auricularia, a European species. Earwigs were first reported in North America in the early 1900s, and they have now spread to most of the United States and parts of Canada.
Earwigs enjoy a lively social scene. They congregate during the day because they tend to find the same hiding places. Their nests can number in the thousands, and they aren’t territorial, so they often live together.
What Do Earwigs Eat?
Pincher bugs are omnivores, meaning that they’ll eat pretty much anything that’s made available to them. In the garden, they primarily feed on dead or decaying plant and animal matter. However, when their population gets out of control, they may turn to feasting on living plant matter, especially the seedlings or young foliage of vegetables and flowers. They will also readily prey on aphids, insect eggs, maggots, grubs, and army worms.
This creates a conundrum for gardeners… Should earwigs be allowed to remain in your garden to eat up aphids and other pests? Or should they be removed before they turn their attention on your plants? Generally, earwigs do not cause enough damage to be worth fighting. However, if you do see large numbers of them around your plants, you can consider taking action.
Do Earwigs Pinch?
The pincers at the end of an earwig’s abdomen look rather formidable. They are capable of pinching (and sometimes biting) humans, but the pinch is not particularly powerful. Earwigs usually use their pincers to ward off enemies like toads and birds, or—in some species—to catch prey.
The pincers, called “cerci,” are also important for romance. They are indicators of gender, like tusks on an elephant. A male earwig’s pincers are long and curved, while a female’s are shorter and straighter.
How to Identify Earwigs
Earwigs get to be about 3/4-inch long. They’re reddish-brown insects with appendages on their tail-ends that look like forceps. Few other insects have a set of scary-looking pincers like the earwig has. This is why some folks call them “pincher bugs” or “pinching bugs.” Attached at the insect’s abdomen, these appendages are called cerci.
Earwigs run very quickly and can also fly, though they rarely do so. They actually have two sets of wings, and their pincers aid in unfolding the wings.
What do earwigs eat? Nocturnal by nature, an earwig’s main meal is decaying plant material and wood, but it will attack living plants, including vegetables, fruit trees, and ornamentals, if given the opportunity. Earwigs are especially fond of flowers, lettuce and other tender greens, celery, and fruits.
Female earwigs lay 40 to 50 shiny eggs in underground tunnels. Oddly enough, the eggs are diligently cared for and protected from predators by the mothers. They hatch in about a week, making it very difficult to control earwig populations before they hatch.
Nymphs simply appear to be miniature versions of adult earwigs. They shed several skins, and ten weeks later, they reach adulthood.
Earwigs often hide underneath pots during the day and then eat the flowers in the pots at night.
Signs of Earwig Damage
Leaves will appear jagged and full of holes. Plants will become ragged overnight, and some leaves will only be partially eaten. There will also probably be a scattering of earwig excrement, which will be small, black pellets.
Damage will often occur after rainy weather, which forces earwigs to seek dry shelter and climb up into plants and leaves.
You might find earwigs under pots that contain damaged plants.
Earwig damage looks similar to that of slugs and snails. To tell the difference, look for the tell-tale sign of slugs and snails: a trail of slime residue on foliage.
Earwig damage involves jagged leaves with holes, which can be seen on this damaged basil plant.
How to Get Rid of Earwigs
Generally, earwigs are not as much of a threat to your garden as other pests, like Japanese beetles and aphids, though they can be as big of an annoyance! They can also produce a foul odor when disturbed, so keep that in mind. Try these remedies:
Lay one-foot sections of bamboo or garden hose in the beds between your plants. Check these “traps” each morning, and dump the earwigs into a bucket of soapy water.
Spread petroleum jelly around the stems of your plants. Earwigs will hesitate to crawl over it.
If they are infesting your woodpile, try sprinkling borax around it, but keep pets and children away from this area after doing so.
Oil pit traps are a great remedy for earwigs. Combine equal parts soy sauce and olive or vegetable oil, put it in a small plastic container, and secure the lid. Punch holes in the top of the container, near the lid. Make the holes large enough for the earwigs to get in. Bury the container in the soil just up to the holes. The soy sauce will attract the earwigs, and the oil will prevent them from escaping. Change the mixture as needed. Read more about making earwig traps.
Alcohol controls these pests by acting as a surfactant, or wetting agent, that can penetrate an insect’s waxy coat of armor and kill on contact with the body. Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) works fine and is easy to find, but be sure it doesn’t have additives. Ethanol (grain alcohol) seems to work best. Alcohol usually comes in 70 percent strength in stores (or 95 percent strength purchased commercially). To make an insecticidal spray, mix equal parts 70 percent alcohol and water (or, if using 95 percent alcohol, mix 1 part alcohol to 1 ½ parts water). The spray must come into contact with the insects to be effective, so target them directly.
WARNING: Before using an insecticidal spray on your plants, test it on a single leaf. Wait 24 hours and observe to see if the plant has an adverse reaction. If it does, dilute your alcohol solution more and test again.
Earwigs are also susceptible to diatomaceous earth (DE), so consider placing a ring of DE around the bases of plants if the soil is dry enough. In wet weather, DE is not effective. DE will also kill pollinators, so refrain from using it around flowers.
How to Prevent Earwigs
Expect more earwigs during rainy years, and prepare accordingly by removing plant debris and other hiding places.  Avoid growing susceptible plants near walls covered in ivy or hedges, as many earwigs might live in these areas.  Birds and toads are both natural predators of earwigs.
Occasionally, earwigs will move from mulch and other moist material outside into your house. They aren’t harmful, but can be an annoyance nonetheless. To prevent this, check for bugs on everything you bring inside, especially laundry, lawn furniture, flowers, vegetables, houseplants, and firewood. Also, move mulch away from your house’s foundation and establish a zone of bare soil that will dry out. If earwigs do happen to get into your home, vacuum them up.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/pest/earwigs
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  beckmall@netins.net  

image from mranimalfarm.com 

BOY is it hot out.  I worked this morning till 10:30 AM and I was warm.  I am trying to do 5 pots and /or displays a day.  So far, I have 10 done.  When the wagons are put away, you will then see the garden I have made on the blacktop.  I am enjoying it, and soon will share it when you drive by.  I know it would help to sell plants if I would do this during the busy time of the garden center, but just don’t have time to plant my pots.  I water every day to keep the wagons, and racks looking good.  I have the Greene Herb Fest this Sunday from 10-3.  Stop and see what the vendors have for you. It is at the city park. 
I found this article about peppers.  How are yours doing?  They are so affected by the weather.  Last year was a good year for them.  How about this year? 
Interesting tidbit answer...
​Are there male and female peppers?
There is a popular myth that states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and any obvious difference between fruits is simply the result of growing conditions or variety.
GROWING  peppers
Water regularly with 1 to 2 inches of water per week. This doesn’t mean shallow watering; peppers like a good dousing but should be left to almost dry out between waterings; they need that period of relative dryness. Slow, deep watering helps the root system grow strong. Do not let pepper plants wilt because this will reduce yield and quality of the fruit. Inconsistent watering also makes pepper susceptible to blossom-end rot.
In a warm or desert climate, or at the height of summer, you may need to water every day. Note that in desert regions at around 4,000 feet of elevation, sweet bell peppers often fail to develop a thick, fleshy wall.
Peppers are extremely heat sensitive. Blossoms may drop if plants are stressed—if it’s too hot (above 85° to 90°F in daytime) or cold (below 60°F at night) or if water is inadequate. Use shade cloth or row covers to avoid heat stress or sunscald (exposure to direct rays of the sun during hot weather, which will cause peppers to get papery, blister, or get papery).
Mulch to maintain moisture and deter weeds.
Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
Contrary to popular belief, spraying pepper plants with epsom salts isn’t beneficial.
Here’s another great video on growing and boosting the productivity of your peppers!
HARVESTING
Once the plants begin producing fruits, pick them promptly, the moment they have reached their full size and color. Regular picking encourages plants to produce more flowers and, of course, more fruits.
That said, the longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the sweeter they become and the greater their vitamin C content.
Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant.
How to Store Peppers
Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
Bell peppers can be frozen for later use.
Peppers can also be dried: Preheat oven to 140°F. Wash, core, and seed. Cut into 1/2-inch strips. Steam for about 10 minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in oven for 4 to 6 hours; turn occasionally and switch tray positions. Cool, then store in bags or containers in a refrigerator.
WIT AND WISDOM
Sweet bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers their pungency and heat.
Do different-colored peppers come from different plants?
Surprisingly enough, the green and red bell peppers that we commonly see in supermarkets are actually the same pepper; the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer. And the longer a bell pepper stays on the plant, the greater its vitamin C content, so red peppers have more vitamin C (and taste sweeter).
Are there male and female peppers?
There is a popular myth that states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and any obvious difference between fruits is simply the result of growing conditions or variety.
PESTS/DISEASES
Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and above 90°F (32°C). Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting. Flower drop is caused by high heat OR very low humidity. If the air is very dry, douse the soil with water and thoroughly mist plants.
Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites—identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves—thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites.
Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites – identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves – thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites.
Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush or blast the aphids off with a hose.
Hope all goes well with pepper growing.  So much depends on the weather.  Each year it is different. 
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/bell-peppers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365

image from Mississippi State University 

        We are starting a extreme hot week.  I am working in the mornings at the greenhouse.  Someone asked if I am done, but I have the Herb Fest on Sunday at Greene.  I have 4 trailers with plants yet, as I am planting my garden pots now.  I planted 5 this morning. AND then there is watering....the wagons, and my pots in my garden.  JUST like you are doing.  I am working this afternoon on bookwork.  The little camper by the greenhouse which is the kids/club house/office/camper works well with a small A/C unit in it.  Then I am close to the blacktop. Larry; and I will be taking some time off during this week.  So the best is to call and see if I am here.  641-794-3337 or 641-903-9365  thanks  stay cool and stay safe.  

 Coneflowers, also known as echinacea, are one of America’s native wildflowers, beloved by butterflies, bees, and songbirds. Learn more about growing coneflower care—from planting to pests to deadheading.
About Perennial Coneflowers
Echinacea are tough perennials in the daisy family (Asteraceae) and hardy in Zones 3 to 9. They are native to the eastern and central United States, blooming in mid-summer and continue to flower sporadically until frost.
The genus is named after the Greek word for hedgehog, echinos, because of the cone-like center which attracts butterflies and bees. Leave the seed heads after bloom and you’ll also attract songbirds such as goldfinches! 
“Goldfinches will spend a very long time on flower seed heads. Great way to start the day” –Diana
Of course, this plant is good for us humans, too, with many medicinal properties; today, it’s especially popular as an herbal tea to strengthen the immune system.
Do Coneflowers Spread?
This is not an aggressive plant, but it will naturally self-seed and spread, which you can encourage if you wait to cut back until late winter (or prohibit self-seeding if you deadhead the flowers right after they fade). Hybrids will not self-sow; most are sterile (they do not produce viable seeds). Hybrids aren’t of much interest to birds, either.
The Purple Coneflower
The purple coneflower (E. purpurea) is the most common and readily available. The flowers measure 2 to 4 inches in diameter with a mounded, brown, central cone of disk flowers, surrounded by long light purple rays that droop down its center cone. But also up to nine naturally occurring echinacea can be found in purple shades or yellow (E. paradoxa). They have dark green lower leaves 4 to 8 inches long.
Coneflowers are striking when planted in masses, especially as a mix of various colors. They are trouble-free once established in a traditional garden or wildflower meadow. They are commonly seen in perennial flower gardens.
 PLANTING
Coneflowers prefer full sun and well-draining soil; they are drought-tolerant. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches and mix in compost or aged manure. (These plants will tolerate poor soil, but results may vary.)
When to Plant Coneflowers
If buying plants from a nursery (most common), plant coneflowers when small, with blooms on the way, in spring or early summer.
Seeds can be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost or outdoors when the soil has warmed to at least 65°F/18°C. (Seed-sown plants are not likely to bloom for 2 to 3 years.)
How to Plant Coneflowers
Dig a hole about twice the pot’s diameter. Set the plant so that the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Fill in to the top of the root ball.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on size at maturity.
Water thoroughly.
Spread thin layers of compost, then mulch, on the soil surface to help keep plants moist and prevent weeds.
GROWING
Coneflowers are drought tolerant, but new plants need water occasionally, and more often if the spring season is especially dry.
Native in ground coneflowers seldom need fertilizer.
To delay blooming for fall enjoyment (and compact growth), cut back stems 1 foot when plants come into bloom. For staggered bloom heights and times, cut only a few stems.
Beneficial, wasplike soldier beetles may appear in August. They feed on insect eggs and larvae and pollinate plants. Do not harm them. Learn more about insects that help out around the garden.
In late fall, lightly spread mulch in colder regions.
Cut the stems back to soil level when they wither or after frost.
Divide or transplant coneflowers in spring or fall.
Deadheading Coneflowers
Should you deadhead coneflowers? There are pros and cons. Deadheading right after a flower fades prolongs blooming—and prevents reseeding. However, if you can wait until late winter, your birds will enjoy those seedheads—especially goldfinch. Plus, coneflowers self-seed prolifically so where you had only one, you’ll will have multiple places in the garden with lovely blooms that attract butterflies and bees.
How to deadhead coneflowers? After the flowers fade, cut back stems to a leaf near a new flower bud or a set of leaves. Use sharp, sterilized shears as coneflowers are too thick to simply snap back the spent flower head with your fingers.
Coneflowers
Coneflowers are a gorgeous addition to your landscape!
HARVESTING
Cut flowers for arrangements when petals are expanding. Vase life is 5 to 7 days.
Leave some of the spent blooms so that birds can eat the seed through the fall and winter.
Harvest some flowers to dry for herbal teas.
WIT AND WISDOM
Coneflowers’ genus name echinacea comes from the Latin name for hedgehog, echinus, referring to the often prickly lower stem of the plant, a feature which deters deer.
Plains Native Americans used purple coneflower (E. purpurea) as their primary medicine; they steeped roots as a remedy for colds, coughs, and infections.
PESTS/DISEASES
Coneflowers are not too bothered by disease or pests but they do have some problems:
Missing or distorted petals? If your coneflowers have a raised cone but lack petals, you probably have Eriophyid mites which suck nutrients from the flowers. Cut back infected plants in the fall and destroy infected plant parts (do not put in compost).
Greening of petals? Aster Yellows is transmitted by leafhoppers feed on the plant. In severe cases, the entire flower head is green. The plant will wilt and die. Remove and destroy infected plants.
White dusting on plant? Powdery mildew is generally the result of overcrowding; the plants need more air circulation. Learn more about controlling powdery mildew.
Holes in leaves? Yep, it’s our friend the Japanese Beetle; these beetles don’t often attack coneflowers but if you have roses nearby, who knows? Learn more about controlling Japanese beetle.
Leaves eaten down the ground? Deer don’t find coneflowers palatable, however, rabbits will chew down the foliage. Hot pepper wax sprays can make leaves less appealing.
Taken from  https://www.almanac.com/plant/coneflowers
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365

I am writing my radio show, so thought I would make a 2nd posting today.  I need to do this to add to my blog writings.  It has been 10 days since I have written.  Summer is going by quickly.  Produce is happening in your gardens.  Sweet corn is out in the stands, green beans are coming on, some tomatoes…just enjoy it all.
How to Prevent and Control Powdery Mildew  by  Catherine Boeckmann
Wondering about that white fungus on your plant? The fungal disease powdery mildew is a common problem in gardens, infecting a wide variety of plants and reducing the quality and quantity of flowers and fruit.
What Is Powdery Mildew?
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects a wide variety of plants. There are many different species of powdery mildew, and each species attacks a range of different plants. In the garden, commonly affected plants include:
Cucurbits (squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons).
Nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers).
Roses.
Legumes (beans, peas).
When the fungus begins to take over one of your plants, a layer of mildew made up of many spores forms across the top of the leaves. These spores are then carried to other plants by the wind. Powdery mildew can slow down the growth of your plant and, if the infection is severe enough, will reduce fruit yield and quality.
How Does Powdery Mildew Spread?
Powdery mildew spores typically drift into your garden with the wind, but if you’ve had powdery mildew occur in the past, new outbreaks may also come from dormant spores in old vegetative material or weeds nearby.
Unlike many other fungal diseases, powdery mildew thrives in warm (60-80°F / 15-27°C), dry climates, though it does require fairly high relative humidity (i.e., humidity around the plant) to spread. In cooler, rainy areas, it does not spread as well, and it is also slowed down by temperatures higher than 90°F (32°C). It tends to affect plants in shady areas more than those in direct sun, too.
IDENTIFICATION
How to Identify Powdery Mildew
Plants infected with powdery mildew look like they have been dusted with flour.
Powdery mildew usually starts as circular, powdery white spots, which can appear on leaves, stems, and sometimes fruit.
Powdery mildew usually covers the upper part of the leaves but may grow on the undersides as well.
Young foliage is most susceptible to damage. Leaves turn yellow and dry out.
The fungus might cause some leaves to twist, break, or become disfigured.
The white spots of powdery mildew will spread to cover most of the leaves or affected areas.
The leaves, buds, and growing tips will become disfigured as well. These symptoms usually appear late in the growing season.
CONTROL AND PREVENTION
How to Prevent Powdery Mildew
As with all pests and diseases, the best means of controlling powdery mildew is proactive prevention.
Choose plants for your garden that are resistant to powdery mildew. Many mildew-resistant varieties of cucurbits (melons, cucumbers, squash, etc.) have been developed and can be bought from major seed suppliers.
Plant in sunnier spots, as powdery mildew tends to develop more often in shady areas.
Selectively prune overcrowded areas to increase air circulation around your plants; this helps to reduce relative humidity.
Watering from overhead can help to wash spores off leaves. However, wet foliage can often contribute to the development of other common diseases, so it’s best not to rely on this as a prevention tactic.
Homemade Prevention
Effective organic fungicides for treating powdery mildew include sulfur, lime-sulfur, neem oil, and potassium bicarbonate. These are most effective when used before infection or when you first see signs of the disease.
Baking soda has been proven by many gardeners to be effective in treating powdery mildew. Mix 1 teaspoon of baking soda in 1 quart of water. Spray plants thoroughly, as the solution will only kill fungus that it comes into contact with.
Milk spray is another effective home remedy. Dilute the milk with water (typically 1:10) and spray on roses at the first sign of infection, or as a preventative measure.
Fungicides
There are many fungicides, especially for rose bushes, that are highly effective with low toxicity, no residue, and long duration. One example is Triadimefon. It can be sprayed with 1000–1200 WP of 15% wettable powder, 1 times intervals of 10 days, and 2–3 times. But check with your local nursery for fungicides approved in your area.
How to Control Powdery Mildew
Once plants are heavily infected, it’s very difficult to get rid of the disease, so focus on preventing it from spreading to other plants. Remove all infected foliage, stems, and fruit and destroy them, either by throwing them in the trash or by burning them. Do not compost any infected plant, as the wind can still spread the disease and persist in the composted materials.
 After pruning off infected parts, do not allow pruning shears to touch healthy leaves. First sterilize your pruners with rubbing alcohol.  Good LUCK!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/pest/powdery-mildew
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

Hi everyone, finally I am going to post this on the blog today.  I have 2 other dates that I tried to do this.   Here we go.   We had a great fair week.  Weather was good, just rained one afternoon, and not too hot or humid.  We got set up and saw lots of gardeners at the fair.  Now we have moved home on Monday and getting plants back where they belong. 
We will be going to the Herb fest in Greene on July 30th.  It will be held at the City park and they will have lots of vendors.  You will see us under the Snap On tool tents. 
I have been noticing with the trips to the fair that some of the baskets of petunias need some help.  In this article, it talks about how to take care of langy petunias.  Do give it a try. 
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Petunias  by Catherine Boeckmann
Pretty petunias are one of the most popular flowers because of their exceptional blooms and long flowering period. As with most annuals, they get leggy by midsummer, so you’ll want to prune the shoots back to about half their length. See how to plant and take care of your petunias to keep them blooming.
About Petunias
Petunias are treated as annuals in most areas, but can be grown as tender perennials in Zones 9 to 11. The flowers come in many colors and patterns, and bloom from spring until frost!
These colorful annuals can really add pop to a front lawn and are often used in borders, containers, hanging baskets or even as a seasonal groundcover. Some even have a slight fragrance. Their height can vary from 6 inches to 18 inches, and they can spread along the ground anywhere from 18 inches to 4 feet.
Petunias are fairly heat tolerant, so you shouldn’t have to worry about watering them frequently. A thorough watering once a week should be sufficient (unless there are prolonged periods of drought in your area). Avoid watering shallowly, as this encourages shallow roots.
Note: The spreading types of petunias and those in containers will require more frequent watering than those planted in the ground.
Fertilize petunias monthly with a balanced fertilizer to support their rapid growth and heavy blooming. Double-flowered cultivars enjoy a biweekly dose of fertilizer.
What to Do With Leggy Petunias
By midsummer, most petunias tend to get leggy, producing blossoms at the tips of long, leafless stems. To keep petunias tidy and flowering, we prune the shoots back to about half their length. This will encourage more branching and more flowers.
After pruning, fertilize and water the plants well to force out new growth and flowers. The plants may look raggedy at first, but they’ll rebound with more color and blooms.
Older garden petunia plants can be pruned prune hard (within a few inches of the base) to re-encourage vigor, especially in cooler climates, but keep the remaining leaves.
Remove faded, old, or dead blossoms (a practice called “deadheading”) to both improve blooms and attractiveness, especially for the larger-flowered petunias. Deadheading prevents seed pods from competing with blooms for the plant’s food supplies. Clippings can be added to a compost pile to be recycled.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/petunias
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net   641 903- 9365 

images from Franklin Co Fair 2022

Here we go fair week.  Franklin Co Fair starts July 11th with the fair parade, and full of all the activities starting on Wednesday July 12th.  Becky’s Greenhouse will be there in the spot we have had.  We are bringing lots of plants, and more plants.  In fact, I am still planting today, Sunday. 
The baskets at the ice cream Parlor and general store are from Becky’s Greenhouse.  We took several pots to Grandpa’s Farm. 
For me, it starts on Monday with a big load.  Come back Monday and fill up a livestock trailer and double deck the pickup full of plants.  It is always good when all of this stuff is at the fairgrounds.
Weather sounds warm tomorrow, and then a little cooler with storms coming.  Doesn’t that sound like Fair week.  I know many of you are getting ready to go to the fair and take things too.  I am wondering if we have been taking things to do the fair when Josh first joined 4-H and that would have been in 1988.  36 years of getting ready for the fair. 
Larry will be out to Grandpa’s Farm helping the fair board with that work.  Both Larry’s Garage and Becky’s Greenhouse are closed for the week.  We take the week off as our vacation. 
Just stop by and say hi, let me know if you hear me on the radio, KLMJ, or you read this blog.  It would tickle me to know how you hear about us. 
Stay cool, enjoy this great Sunday weather.  An almost perfect day again.  See you at the Fair.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

Leaves curled on my patio tomatoes image from Becky's Greenhouse

     ​4th of July is now over, where did spring and part of summer go?  I am glad that the temperature is a little cooler and less humidity.  Old Farmers’ Almanac said that July would have below normal temperatures and above normal precipitation.  It is time for that to start….It was really hot at 90 degrees on the blacktop and working with the plants.  I watered, and then watered again in a day.  Plants are looking good yet.  I am  open Wed, Thursday and Friday from 9-6.  I just looked at the calendar and Monday July 10th, we will be working at the Franklin Co Fair.  We are taking baskets and pots to help decorate. I will be there with my flower wagon, and a display of lots of other plants at the site by the popcorn stand.  Franklin Co Fair will start on Wed. July 12th.  I am now stressing out with all I want to plant and take.  I will get it done, I will, I will.
I had my Gardeners of North Iowa here 2 weeks ago, and one question was on curling leaves on her tomatoes.  She wondered if it was drift.  Here is what I found out as other causes of that problem with herbicides only being on.  I would have to say I think it was caused by the hot temperatures we had and the lack of rain.  Hope this helps. 
Tomato Plant Leaves Curling – 9 Causes and How To Fix It
Growing tomatoes can be a challenge. Tomato plant leaves curling up is one of the most common issues to arise. Thankfully, the root cause of the problem can usually be solved with some simple adjustments to your gardening routine.
In this article, I will go over several possible reasons for your tomato plant leaf curl. I’ll work through from the most likely cause to the least likely, providing the best solutions for each.
1. High Temperatures
The most common cause of tomato leaves curling up is high temperatures. During the hot summer months, tomato leaves may begin to curl as a defense mechanism.
If you have had a heatwave and your tomato leaves have begun to roll upwards, this is almost definitely the issue. The leaves will tend to roll up in the shape of a cylinder under high-heat conditions to prevent water loss.
This type of leaf curling in plants is known as physiological leaf roll, and it is a permanent change in the shape of the affected leaves. In other words, once the tomato leaves have curled, they will not un-curl.
Solutions:  Provide afternoon shade (with garden fabric or similar).Keep evenly watered during a heatwave. Keep large plants trimmed. Harden off plants gradually. Under hot conditions, your best bet is to help the plant stay cool during the hottest part of the day. This is usually during the mid-afternoon hours. Without protection, tomato leaves may also begin to wilt, and can even turn white due to sun scald.
Provide some shade from the sun if possible, or if your plants are in pots, move them to a shady location for a few hours until the heat passes. Also, ensure the plants have plenty of water, as they will drink significantly more in hot and dry weather.
Thankfully, this type of tomato leaf roll is not a major concern. As long as the entire plants are not showing rolled leaves, they will survive. After all, the plant is simply having a natural response to its environment.
2. Root Bound Plants
If you are like me, you tend to get a bit antsy during the winter months. However, you should never plant your tomato seeds too early!
If your plants are ready to go outside before the weather is warm enough, the plants may end up stuck in a pot that is too small. This almost always leads to a root bound tomato plant, which can cause leaf curling.
A root bound plant essentially has an entangled root system due to inadequate soil space. If the plants in question are in small containers, waiting to be transplanted, then this may be your cause.
Solution: Transplant the plant into a larger pot or into the plant’s final location as soon as possible! Next time, make sure you have a planting timeline established to avoid constraining the plants during early, rapid growth.
 3. Pest Damage
Broad mites, aphids and other tiny insects can be a huge headache for tomato growers. These hard-to-spot pests can show up unannounced and cause massive damage if left untreated.
I always recommend checking for pests on a regular basis by inspecting your leaves, top and bottom. Many of the most problematic pests blend in with the foliage, making them tricky to find.
If an infestation happens, you will eventually see signs of their presence. One of the common signs is tomato leaves curling. This type of curling will usually affect smaller, younger foliage, as this is what many pests are attracted to.
Solutions: Plant flowers and other companion plants to attract predatory insects. Spray the plant with a hose to knock off aphids. Bottom prune leaves to keep foliage off the ground.Spray tops and bottoms of affected leaves with insecticidal soap. Neem oil is an all natural insecticide that works by smothering insects, so be sure to spray the solution thoroughly on affected leaves. This can help reduce populations of aphids and other insects, while doing no harm to beneficial insects like ladybugs.
Note: Any pesticide should be a last resort, as they often kill beneficial insects too.
Diatomaceous earth is another natural remedy that can help prevent wingless insects from reaching the base of your plant. Sprinkle it on the surface of the soil in an unbroken circle around the base of each plant.
4. Viruses and Disease
Finally, we reach the most dreaded cause of tomato leaves curling, disease. While there are a wide array of diseases that affect tomato plants, don’t immediately assume your leaves are curling due to disease.
There are many causes for curling and yellowing tomato leaves aside from disease, so be sure to rule out other possible causes first.
Many viruses cause tomato leaves to wrinkle, curl or roll. Some common ones include mosaic virus, tomato yellow leaf curl, streak virus, and crumple virus. The names of these speak for themselves, essentially describing the visual effects of the condition.
Solutions:  Remove and burn the infected plants. Be sanitary in the garden. Bottom prune tomato leaves to avoid soil splashing onto them. Unfortunately, the only recommendation I can give for a diseased plant is to remove it from the garden. If you can, burn the affected plant far from your garden. Never compost a diseased plant!
The reason for this drastic measure is that most diseases can spread from one plant to another. Viruses can also be seed-borne, so avoid saving seeds from affected fruits.
To help avoid disease in the future, use good hygiene while gardening. Always wash hands before and after entering the garden, and never smoke in the garden.
Most viruses lay dormant in the soil until a suitable host and conditions are found. Prevent them from reaching your tomato leaves by bottom pruning away low leaf branches throughout the season.
Also, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of your tomato plants. This will help dampen rainfall, reducing splashing.
5. Overwatering
Too much water is never a good thing for tomato plants. Ideally, your plants should be evenly watered, meaning not too wet, but not too dry either.
If you are overwatering, your plant’s roots will essentially begin to drown. One of the earliest warning signs of overwatering is tomato leaves curling.
Solutions: Use well-draining potting mix and allow potted plants to drain. Amend ground soil with perlite, vermiculite, or sand to improve drainage. Water only when top 2-5 inches of soil is dried out.If you have an automatic irrigation system, consider adjusting the schedule to reduce the amount or frequency of watering. Note that hot weather will lead to more frequent watering.
Note: Perhaps just as important as drainage is moisture retention. By mulching around the base of tomato plants, you can prevent evaporation of the moisture in the root system.
6. Drifting Herbicides
Do you live near a commercial, inorganic farm? How about a railroad? Maybe a neighbor with an exceptionally lush, green lawn?
Chemical herbicides, like dicamba, are used in many applications to destroy weeds and unwanted plant life. It is usually applied to foliage in a liquid or dust form.
If an herbicide like dicamba is used in large quantities at a nearby location, excess chemical may drift to your home garden via the wind. Even in tiny quantities, chemical herbicides can be devastating to sensitive tomatoes.
If your plants have been exposed to certain herbicides, the leaves will curl upwards at all of the edges. The tip of the leaves will also tend to curl up, eventually folding over. The edges of the leaves may also begin to turn yellow.
Solution: Gently spray all affected tomato plants with water after sunset.Avoid using chemical lawn fertilizer anywhere near the garden Don’t compost affected plants It is also possible that the lawn fertilizer you are using contains chemical herbicides. These may work well for suppressing unsightly weeds in the yard, but they can be horrible for your vegetable plants. Consider changing to an organic solution!
7. Excess Nitrogen  Tomatoes are fast-growing plants that require lots of nitrogen. However, any plant has its limits. If you provide too much plant food, your tomato leaves may begin to curl.
Nutrient burn will usually present itself with brown spots at the edges of leaves, in addition to curling. These spots will usually become dry and crispy if left untreated.  Solutions:Reduce fertilizer amount. Use a more gentle fertilizer (organic fertilizers are typically less concentrated) The solution is to reduce the amount and/or frequency of fertilizer. In extreme cases, you may wish to flush out the soil by watering and draining potted tomato plants several times. This effectively reduces the concentration of nutrients available in the soil.
8. Cold Weather
As the growing season draws to a close, tomatoes and other warm weather crops will begin to stress. Cool nights can cause leaf curling in tomatoes as the plants attempt to deal with the cold.  While freezing temperatures are inevitable in many locations, there are some things you can do to prolong the growing season.  Solutions:
Use cheese cloth or garden fabric to insulate plants from cold.Use a mulch around the base of plants to keep the roots warmer.Move potted plant into a garage or similar when expecting a freeze.Harvest any near-ripe tomatoes before a cold night.Keep in mind, it is always a few degrees warmer next to a house or building. If your plants are in containers, simply moving them near the side of your house may keep them alive a few weeks longer during late fall!
9. Wind Damage
In addition to hot weather, windy and dry weather can cause tomato leaves to curl in a similar fashion. Excessively windy conditions can stress both the leaves and stems of your tomato plants.  If you are planting in an open field, this could likely be your issue. Strong winds can steal moisture from the plants, usually causing the leaves to twist and curl.  Solution:  Provide some protection from the wind. This can be done by planting sturdier plants like bushes or trees to take the brunt of the breeze. Use a weathervane or similar to learn the typical direction of wind in your location and plant accordingly.  You can also protect young plants from wind damage by building a low wall around your garden beds. This is best for permanent, in-ground gardens as it can be costly.
What Can I Do About Curling Tomato Leaves?
Hopefully, you now have a better idea of the root cause of your curled tomato leaves. Each section above describes the best way to deal with each issue. But what can you do about the already curled leaves? Should you cut them off?
In short, curled tomato leaves will not un-curl, but new foliage can be improved by adjusting plant care. The curled leaves don’t need to be removed, as they can still contribute photosynthetic energy.
Taken from https://tomatogeek.com/tomato-plant-leaves-curling/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365