image from techlife.news

      ​What another grand summer day. Below normal temperatures being at 73 degrees at 11:30 AM unbelievable high today of 81. It will change as all of us know or have been told next week.  Above normal temperatures in the high 90’s with humidity.  ENJOY is all I am going to say.
The Delta Aquarids get their name from the constellation Aquarius, which they appear to emanate from. A weaker shower, the Delta Aquarids typically reach their peak in late July and produce between 10 and 20 meteors per hour around this time. A truly dark sky offers the best chance at seeing the Delta Aquarids, as they tend to not be as bright as some of the other meteor showers.
Meteor Showers Viewing Tips
The most common question is “Where can I see the meteor showers?” The answer is: ANYWHERE in the sky! During a meteor shower, meteors can appear at any location, not just near their radiant. (The radiant is the location in the sky from which the paths of meteors in a meteor shower appear to originate, from our perspective on Earth. For example, the constellation Perseus is the radiant for the Perseids meteor shower; constellation Leo, the Leonids.) As far as viewing location on Earth, several major meteor showers can be seen in both Hemispheres, but others might be better seen in one or the other, depending on how far above or below the horizon the radiant is located. The Ursids, for example, are essentially seen only in the Northern Hemisphere, as the radiant is too far north of the equator for good viewing in the Southern Hemisphere.
When are meteor showers? See the chart above for “date of maximum,” which lists the peak of each meteor shower (when the shooting stars will be most frequent). The time of the year for each shower is determined by when in Earth’s orbit it crosses the stream of meteoroids.
What time can I see the meteor showers? See the chart above for the best viewing time. In nearly all showers, the radiant is highest just before dawn, but any time beween midnight and dawn gives you a view of most meteors head-on, for a more frequent display. Starting around midnight, your location on the globe spins around to the forward-facing half of Earth (in relation to the direction of orbit). At dawn, your location on the globe directly faces the direction in which Earth is traveling along its orbit.
Note: the Geminid meteor shower is visible all night long, since Gemini appears just an hour or two after nightfall; the radiant is highest a little after midnight.
Where to look? The best place to start is between the radiant and the zenith (straight above you in the sky). (Once again, the radiant is where the meteors appear to start from.) See the “point of origin” above.
How to look? You don’t need any special equipment. In fact, binoculars do not work well for meteor showers. The naked eye is your best tool!
Dark Skies, Clear Skies Needed!
The sky needs to be dark, away from all the city lights. Try to get to a viewing site as far as possible from bright lights. This may require planning—for a country drive or a campout.
Bright moonlight, within a few days of a full Moon will reduce the number of meteors that you will see. Check our Full Moon Chart.
Obviously, the weather needs to cooperate so that the skies are clear.
Look for a location with a wide-open view of the sky, free from obstructions like tall trees or buildings.
Spend about 20 minutes outside for your eyes to fully adjust to the darkness of the night sky.
Spead a blanket on the ground and get cozy!
"Shooting star" is simply a colloquial expression for a meteor. Some meteors are quite bright (for example some Taurids can even cast shadows and leave bright trails). Some look like "flashbulbs" going off in the sky. Some are faint. Some move very fast; others are slow. All these are meteors! Most mind-bending of all, the light we see is the air being ionized around a very fast-moving particle (typically the size of a grain of sand). The molecules of the air are stripped of electrons which releases a tremendous amount of energy in the form of light. Believe it or not, it's this light, not the actual "material" of dust or pebble moving through the sky that we witness as a meteor. Only rarely is a particle large enough to make it all the way to earth.
This year, expect no interference from the Moon at all, as it will be in its new phase during the peak viewing hours of the Delta Aquarids. Keep an eye out for them between midnight and dawn on July 29 and 30.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/meteor-shower-calendar
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from elitedaliy.com 

      ​ANOTHER great day.  Below normal temperatures with the temperature being in the low 80’s. BUT the real treat is low humidity.  BUT without that moisture in the air, it will be hard for rain.  Next week, higher temperatures and higher humidity.  ENJOY this weather and work on your garden.  I will use the mornings as I do every morning to work in the greenhouse.  I am getting plants ready for the Herb Fest in Greene on Sunday from 9-3. I am working on emptying the wagons. AND always something to clean up in my gardens.  Here are some good tips about the heat and gardening. 
7 sensible tips to cope with heat when gardening by Robin Sweetser
If you like to garden, be careful in extreme heat. Here are seven sensible tips to keep in mind during hot and humid weather. Whether you like it hot or not, it is important to take care while working outside.
Gardening in the Heat
I like hot summers, but I know that my opinion is in the minority when I hear my fellow gardeners complaining about the heat and humidity. Here’s how to cope with the heat when you’re in the garden:
Do your heaviest work early in the morning, as early in the day in possible, or in the evening. It’s good for both you and the plants. Take a cue from South American and Mediterranean countries where it is siesta time from 11 to 2 in the afternoon. Sit in the shade, relax and enjoy your garden, listen to the birds and watch the butterflies. The weeds will still be there waiting for you once the day cools down.
Slow down and pace yourself. Take frequent breaks. It’s okay if you can’t get as much done during a hot, muggy day as you can on a cooler day!
Keep hydrated. Drink plenty of cool water before, during and after working outside. Don’t wait until you are thirsty to drink. And no alcohol. It just dehydrates you. Get in the habit of bring a water bottle with you if needed. Drink in small sips to avoid getting waterlogged. If you’re feeling dehydrated, consider a sports beverage which will place the salt you’re sweating out.
Don’t forget the sunscreen! Apply the suncreen 30 minutes before going outdoors. (I apply when I get up in the morning as part of my routine.) You may have to reapply it after sweating.
Wear a hat. A proper sun hat shades not only your face but your ears and neck as well. Wear light-colored clothes to reflect sunshine, too.
Tie a wet bandanna around your neck or even drape a wet cotton dish towel over the nape of your neck. If you have considered buying one of the fancy cooling towels, save your money. Consumer Reports tested several along with an ordinary kitchen towel (smooth, not terry cloth) and found that they only varied by about 2 degrees. Better yet, pop the wet bandanna or towel into the fridge or freezer for a while.
Go inside if you feel yourself getting overheated or breathing too heavily. Take a cool shower or spray yourself with the garden hose!
Summer Bummer
If like me you don’t know when to quit, one rule of thumb is to add the temperature and humidity figures together.
If the answer is over 160, it is time to head inside. Heat-related deaths outnumber those from natural disasters such as tornadoes, hurricanes, lightning, and earthquakes combined. (See the Almanac’s Heat Index chart.)
There are three levels of heat sickness that can quickly affect a hard-working gardener on a hot day.
Heat Stress can cause muscle cramps and fatigue. Your body is telling you it has had enough. Time to head to a shady cool location and drink some water. You can also try a sports drink to replace lost electrolytes and minerals. Ignoring the symptoms leads to heat exhaustion.
Heat Exhaustion adds headache, nausea, and dizziness to the cramps and fatigue. Heavy sweating and  pale or flushed skin are also signs that your body is heading toward trouble. Ignoring these symptoms can quickly lead to heat stroke.
Heat Stroke can be fatal! If you stop sweating, are vomiting, have a body temperature of 104, have a racing heart beat and rapid, shallow breathing, cool down immediately and seek medical help. Cool off in front of a fan or AC or take a cool shower or bath and drink water until help arrives. Cool down gradually. Don’t pour ice cold water on your head or you could go into shock. Untreated heat stroke will lead to unconsciousness and can damage your heart, kidneys, brain, and muscles.
Hot weather is tough on plants and people too. You can’t take care of your garden if you don’t take care of yourself so when the thermometer starts to sizzle, head inside during the hottest part of the day.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/tips-gardening-extreme-heat
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 

image from truedearmarket.com 

      ​What a lovely day yesterday.  Worked outside, played with the grandkids outside, and sat outside with Larry.  It was just a great day.  Looks like today the same.  BUT it is low humidity so with that means the atmosphere is  dry which means no rain.  Around here we do need rain, but crops still look good.  I am watering all the time.  I am getting ready to go to the Herb Fest in Greene on Sunday July 31 from 9-3.  I am looking forward to seeing all of you there.  NOW what do you think about planting a fall garden?  This is the time I will be doing my garden, so let you know how it goes. 
When, How, and Why to Plant Fall Vegetables  by Robin Sweetser
Summer is still going strong, but fall is on the way! Are you planning to continue your harvest into autumn this year? If so, now is the time to start planning (and planting). There are so many interesting crops that thrive in fall weather. See the best vegetables for fall gardening!
Albert Camus said that autumn is a second spring because every leaf is a flower. For me, fall in the garden is a second spring because we are harvesting spring veggies again.
Why Plant a Garden for Fall?
Every July, I try to convince my farmers’ market customers that they should be planting their fall gardens, but I don’t have many takers. Most give me the fish eye like I am trying to put something over on them. These are the folks that do a marathon planting session on Memorial Day weekend and then scratch “planting the garden” off their to do list—done for the year! They don’t realize that many crops can be put in the ground before that traditional planting day and others need to be planted later when they can mature in colder weather. A large part of our market day is spent educating people about the possibilities.
Planting fall crops lets you continue growing fresh, healthy food at home—plus, there is nothing like home-grown crisp, leafy lettuce.
The plants produce better and the work is spread out over several weeks.
Cooler temperatures means less watering and less sweating for you!
Warm soil is key to good germination, so by the time you’re planting in July and August, the soil will be warmed and your seedlings will grow like mad.
What Vegetables Can Be Planted for a Fall Harvest?
Here in New Hampshire, I’m rather limited by our short growing season. However, if you live somewhere warmer, you can likely get away with planting a lot more for a fall harvest!
After pulling our garlic in mid-summer, we had seedlings of lettuce, bok choy, chinese cabbage, and kale ready and waiting to plug into the empty beds.
Spinach and Swiss chard can also be started from seed during summer, as both will last into colder fall weather.
Ever the optimist, I planted more bush beans, summer squash, and cucumbers, knowing that I will have to cover them when cold weather threatens.
If you live in a warmer part of the country, you may be able to plant another round of summer crops such as tomatoes and peppers.
What Makes For a Good Fall Crop?
Generally, vegetables that mature quickly and that are frost tolerant make for the best fall crops.
Vegetables that can survive light frosts (in the 30 to 32˚F range) include beets, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, celery, collards, green onions, potatoes, Bibb and leaf lettuce, mustard, parsnips, radishes, spinach, and Swiss chard. The flavor of some of these, such as collards and parsnips, is, in fact, much improved by exposure to a spell of below-freezing temperature.
Even hardier vegetables that can survive temperatures as low as 20˚F include cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, kale, leeks, rutabagas and turnips. Upon thawing out, these hardy vegetables will continue to grow between freezes!
Check out our video to learn more about what to plant in your fall garden.
When to Plant What
It’s important to plant at the right time for your location. Here’s how to get a general idea of when to plant:
See your local frost date calculator.
Then take the days to maturity for the crop you plan to grow (usually listed on the seed packets) and count back this number of days from the frost date. (If the days to maturity listed is from transplant, not seeding, add another 4 weeks to this figure.)
Because plants grow more slowly in the shorter, cooler days of fall, add a ″fall factor″ of another week or two to the maturity time.
Then add in the length of the expected harvest period and you’ve arrived at your planting date. Of course, you can plant earlier than this date, but to ensure a good crop, consider this to be the “last planting date.”
Generally speaking, here’s the rule of thumb:
10-12 weeks before first frost: Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celery.
8-10 weeks before first frost: Arugula, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, Swiss chart, turnips
6-8 weeks before first frost: Beets, radishes
If you plan to offer your plants protection (such as cold frames or row covers), you can plant 2 to 3 weeks later and still expect to get a good harvest! Learn more about season extenders.
Fall Gardening Care Tips
Mulch your beets, carrots, turnips, and parsnips before the ground freezes hard. Even if the vegetable tops wilt, the roots will survive with mulching and you can often harvest through the winter!
With fast-maturing crops such as lettuce and hardy greens, stagger small plantings every few weeks to keep the harvest spread out or you’ll get all your lettuce at one time.
Of course, you’ll need to follow gardening principles you’d use in the summer. Provide good soil (with organic matter), fertilize with plant food if you wish, and water consistently.
Watch Out for Fall Pests
Of course, it isn’t all as rosy as some of the gardening books would like you to think. You still need to keep an eye out for slugs, cutworms, and cabbage worms, which like tender sprouts and leafy greens.
An unseen cabbage moth laid her eggs on my new kale plants in hit-and-run fashion. (I thought it was too late in the season for that, but wrong again!)
Be sure to protect your young plants! One method is to make little plant collars out of aluminum foil, or to cover the seedlings with cloches at night. Or just pick off any pests you see and drop them in soapy water (check the undersides of leaves, too). See our advice on slugs, cabbage worms, and cutworms.
That said, there are definitely less pests in the cool fall than in the summer, so that’s another advantage!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/best-vegetables-fall-garden
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  

image from trimaweed.com 

What a change in weather, humidity, and temperature.  Sunday and today below normal temperatures and lot less humidity.  Sounds like it will be this way all week.  What a great week for RAGBRAI.  Mason City and Charles City are over nights, Rockford and Marble Rock are having them go thru.  Temperature at 9:00 Am unbelievable 71 degrees.  High today of 80 and humidity is low.  Tonight, low of 59.  Only thing we really need here around Dougherty is rain.  We heard that 2” around the area but not here.  Crops look good but….need rain.  See what happens.   Enjoy this weather is all I am going to say. 
How to Keep Squirrels Away From Your Garden  by The Editors
Got squirrel problems in the yard, garden, and attic? Sure, they’re entertaining to watch and we’re fond of these furry critters, but if they keep stealing your tomatoes and your spring bulbs, it can be very frustrating. So what’s a gardener to do? You can co-exist! Try these top tips for repelling squirrels naturally.
Why Worry About Squirrels in the Garden?
With a fondness for fresh fruits, vegetables, and flowers, the common squirrel has long spelled trouble for home gardeners. From Maine to Montana, these wily critters yank geraniums from window boxes, pluck nearly ripe tomatoes from their vines, and strip apple trees like professional pickers. Though their foraging forays can happen at any time of year, a squirrel’s raid in late summer and early autumn can drive a gardener nuts.
Squirrels are especially active in late summer and autumn, when they stock up for winter. They do not hibernate (although they may “lie low” during cold spells), so their underground pantries are vitally important winter warehouses. They have a major instinct for hoarding food, which helps them to survive. Gray squirrels stash food by burying it in a scattered fashion around their territory.
Although North America is home to several species of squirrels, it is the suburb-savvy gray squirrel, Sciurus carolinensis, that gives gardeners (and people who feed birds) the most grief. How did the clever critters find those flower bulbs, anyway? Why do they ransack some borders and leave others alone?
The average squirrel gathers acorns, pinecones, nuts, bark, fruit, berries, fungi, and insects, but is not above stealing bird eggs and bulbs. Sometimes they will even ruin your flowers just for the fun of it! Keep an eye out for these pesky visitors and try some of our tips below.
IDENTIFICATION
Is That A Squirrel I See?
Weighing an average of 16 to 24 ounces, the type of squirrel that is probably causing damage in your garden is the common gray squirrel. Its color varies from gray, tan, or light brown to dark brown and black. Its belly is light, from white to gray. Its body is 8 to 11 inches in length, and its tail measures 8 to 10 inches. Its vocal call is a rapid CRRK CRRK or QUACK QUACK, similar to a duck. The famous feature of the gray squirrel is its bushy tail, a luxurious puff of fur used for warmth, communication, and balance.
Squirrels have a very keen sense of smell, which most gardeners blame for their bulb pilfering. The nose of these expert foragers is a tiny but powerful tool in the search for hidden nuts and berries. Gardeners aren’t sure whether the squirrels do actively seek out the spring bulbs or not, but the problem of bulb snatching is real and widespread.
How to Identify Squirrel Damage in the Garden
Spring bulbs snacked on? You’re probably dealing with squirrels, chipmunks, or groundhogs. Squirrels love to dig up spring bulbs during their autumn foraging—both to eat the bulbs and to use the ready-made holes to store their foraged nuts.
Missing or damaged crops in the garden is also a key sign of squirrels. Often, squirrels will steal ripening fruits and vegetables to snack on, especially soft and juicy produce such as squash, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and melons. Frustratingly, they often don’t even eat the entire thing!
If you’re growing flowers or vegetables in containers, you may also notice that someone’s been digging around in the container soil. Squirrels and chipmunks are known to look for insects or other goodies in containers, and may uproot plants in the process. If conditions have been especially dry, they may also be digging to access the moist soil.
Squirrels will not only attack your gardens, but your bird feeders as well. If you notice your bird food disappearing rather quickly or piling up beneath your feeder, you may have a squirrel problem.
CONTROL AND PREVENTION
Preventing Squirrel Damage
Try to avoid attracting squirrels to your property in the first place. Make sure you have tight-fitting trash cans and never leave food or compost scraps sitting out. Bird seed is a big one, too; keep it indoors or in a chew-proof container in a sheltered location.
Don’t bother trapping and relocating squirrels. This is a losing battle, since the population of squirrels is extremely high in most areas, and moving one will just make room for another! Also, if the animal is a female, there is a high likelihood that you will remove her from babies that depend on her for survival. Additionally, the relocation of wildlife (yes, even squirrels) may be illegal in your area.
If the season has been particularly hot and dry, squirrels may steal tomatoes, cucumbers, or other juicy produce from the vine because they’re thirsty. Some readers have reported that placing a dish of water (or bird bath) nearby commonly eaten crops can discourage snacking.
Unfortunately, growing extra vegetables to “feed” the squirrels does not usually work; squirrels will simply plow through your produce and bring their friends!
Is your yard covered in nuts and acorns from trees? If so, your place is squirrel heaven! Just accept that your yard will be party central or you’ll need to pick up and move the nuts to a different part of the yard or grow/select different types of trees.
Fencing, Netting, and Covers
It’s best to use physical barriers, which can usually get the job done as long as the material is right. Squirrels and other rodents are capable of squeezing through extremely tight spaces, so holes in the fencing or netting must be very small. Look specifically for netting or fencing that’s rated for rats or squirrels.
Consider protecting your vegetable garden with a wire fence and make sure it is buried about at least 6 inches into the ground, so the squirrels can’t easily dig under it. Materials like 1/4-inch hardware cloth will do the trick. (Standard chicken wire has holes that a determined squirrel can squeeze through.)
You may also wish to invest in some chew-proof netting and put that over your plants—just as you would invest in bird netting for berry bushes. Row covers made of heavier materials can also be used, depending on the season.
Pots are easy to protect with a layer of netting or hardware cloth across the top of the pot, too. A layer of gravel or stones can also discourage digging.
Or, here’s a more-expensive pantry solution: Lay aluminum foil across the top of vegetable pots, poking holes in it to allow for water exchange. The squirrels do not like the shiny reflection.
Dogs are Natural Squirrel Deterrents!
A dog is a great squirrel chaser, if that’s an option in your backyard! Squirrels can’t stand those pesky dogs! Save the dog’s hair when you brush or groom it, and use it to mulch around your garden beds. The squirrels won’t go near it!
Human hair helps a well, according to one reader who shares, “I used to have a problem with squirrels digging up my bulbs. Now, once in the spring and once in the fall, I ask my hairdresser to save a big bag of hair for me. I lightly dig this into the soil. Squirrels can not stand the smell of humans, so they leave the gardens alone.”
Natural Squirrel Repellents
There are also many natural repellents on the market:
Spread predator urine around your garden. Garden nurseries will carry repellents that are made with the urine of squirrels’ predators such as foxes or coyotes. These are meant to be sprayed around gardens to keep squirrels away, but will likely need to be reapplied regularly.
Try sprinkling cayenne pepper, ground chili peppers, pepper flakes, and/or garlic pepper on and around your plants when they are ready to bloom. After getting a taste, squirrels won’t dare eat anything with cayenne—which you can often buy in bulk.
Birds can’t taste capsaicin, so add some cayenne pepper to those bird feeders to deter squirrels.
One reader claims blood meal sprinkled around the garden soil works against squirrels.
Plant nasturtiums, marigolds, and mustard as a border around your vegetable garden; these plants have a strong aroma.
If you’re really going crazy due to squirrels, explore the idea of installing a raptor perch or owl nest box to invite natural predators who will prey on squirrels.
A fake owl may also frighten squirrels away; move it around the garden on a regular basis so that the squirrels don’t become wise to the trick.
Protecting Bulbs from Squirrels
Bulbs that squirrels (and other rodents) do not like include daffodils, fritillaria, snowdrops (Galanthus), grape hyacinths (Muscari), and ornamental alliums. These flowers are also disliked by rabbits and deer because of their unpalatable taste and fragrant odor. You can also try these flowers in pots, planters, and containers. Check out our list of rodent-proof bulbs.
For more protection, line the planting hole itself with wire mesh (“hardware cloth”). Some gardeners have found that planting the bulbs in a handful of sharp, crushed gravel discourages the squirrels. This might help provide better drainage as well.
Gardeners lay down chicken wire if they’re planting many bulbs. Look for one-inch mesh and place below and on top of the bulbs. The plants can grow through the wires, but the squirrels can’t get to the bulbs.
As an added layer of protection, cover the surface of the bed with black plastic netting, which is invisible and inexpensive.
Don’t advertise your newly dug bulbs by leaving papery bits of bulb debris in or on the soil. Clean up your act, or better still, try not to lay your bulbs on the ground while you dig the holes to plant them—squirrels will smell their favorite and scamper over.
Keeping Squirrels Off Bird Feeders
Bird food definitely attracts squirrels, who love seeds, nuts, and berries. Keep the area under your bird feeder as clean as possible.
Keep in mind the jumping abilities of squirrels: Even if a squirrel can’t gain a foothold on the feeder, they may be able to jump to it from any nearby perches.
Place birdfeeders on isolated poles (not hanging from eaves or trees) at least 5 to 6 feet off the ground and 8 to 10 feet away from your house, trees, or structures. (Squirrels can leap that far and even farther.) Some folks use a pulley system.
Attach to the feeder pole either an inverted cone with at least a 13-inch diameter, a special squirrel-deterring dish with a 15-inch diameter, or a PVC pipe or stovepipe that’s 6 inches in diameter and 18 inches long.
Protect feeders suspended from a horizontal wire by threading old records, compact discs, or plastic soda bottles on the wire on each side.
If squirrels are climbing up your bird feeder poles, try rubbing them with Crisco (the poles—not the squirrels)! It doesn’t hurt the birds, and the squirrels won’t be able to get a grip.
Try using safflower seeds. Birds are happy to eat these seeds, but squirrels find them bitter.
Also, consider the type of bird feeder. If you have the common tube feeder, metal ports around the seed dispensers will protect the feeder from nibbling squirrels and house sparrows.
If you are buying a new feeder, the most successful feeder is an all-metal feeder with adjustable springs that regulate a counter-weighted door. When birds light on the platform, the door remains open, but under the heavier weight of a squirrel, the door drops down to conceal the food supply. These tend to be pricier, but you won’t have to replace them on account of squirrel damage. Just make sure that they are hung securely and can’t be knocked down.
Reader Suggestions
Here are a couple more squirrel repellent suggestions that readers sent in:
Try motion-activated sprinklers, primarily designed to keep cats and rabbits out of gardens, to help scare away squirrels in small yards or at corners of front yards where damage is most likely to occur. However, the presence of numerous squirrels, stray animals, or children may result in overwatering and high water bills if they continually trigger this device.
Get some mousetraps. Anchor them solidly to the ground in the area where the squirrels have been digging. Cover them with newspaper, and sprinkle a little dirt on top. When a squirrel comes to dig, it will set off the traps. As the mechanism snaps, it will scare and throw dirt at the squirrel. Once it’s scared enough times, it will find another digging area. Be sure to anchor the traps just in case the wind blows the newspaper off of them. If the trap is anchored, the squirrel will not get hurt.
Dealing with Squirrels Inside the Home
In the autumn, many squirrels try to find shelter and may come inside your home. Make this more difficult for them to do by trimming branches that hang near your roof and placing a mesh guard on your chimney. Close up all holes into your home.
If a squirrel does become trapped in your chimney or attic, you don’t want it to die inside. Make sure it has a way to get out. Hang a rope down through your chimney so it can climb back up to the roof. Or, buy a live trap to get the squirrel out of your house.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/pest/squirrels
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from envato.com/elements/photos 

​Another lovely day with lower humidity.  We will take this.   Blue, clear sky with a wind, so all that helps.  I got all the stuff put away that I took to the fair.  I have been busy watering and moving plants to the wagons.  Finally, I have the tall racks emptied.  Yes, we have plants yet.  Some annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees.  We are open during the week.  Closed on Saturday and Sunday.  Call 641-794-3337  Another thing, I have moved the office back to the house, so when you drive up, I will come over from the house.  Office for a few months was in the greenhouse, and then I moved to our little camper.  So, I could be near the greenhouse and you the gardener.  I had this question at the fair.  Why isn’t my hydrangea blooming? I told them it could be a pruning issue but here are some other reasons. 
Why Are My Hydrangeas Not Blooming?
Though they are pretty foolproof plants, the most common problem gardeners have with their hydrangeas is failure to bloom. Need hydrangea help? Here are 5 common reasons for hydrangeas not flowering—and what to do about it!
5 Reasons Hydrangeas Don’t Bloom
Note: If you’re not sure what variety of hydrangea you have, reference our article with photos on hydrangea varieties.
1. Cold Injury
Many varieties of big-leaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) and oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) form buds in late summer or fall. These tender buds can be killed by frigid winter temps or even a late spring cold snap.
You can try to protect hydrangeas from winter damage by wrapping the plant with chicken wire or burlap and stuffing leaves or straw around the stems to insulate them, taking care not to snap any of the branches.
Better yet, grow a variety that is cold hardy in your region or one that forms its buds on the current season’s growth. Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) often called PeeGees, and smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens) are the most cold hardy species and both blossom on new wood.
Lace cap hydrangea flowers are made up of both fertile (the small center ones) and infertile (the large outer ones) blossoms.
2. Improper Pruning
The time of year you prune makes a big difference. Knowing what type of hydrangea you have! This will lessen the chance of cutting off your flower buds.
Panicle hydrangeas and smooth hydrangeas form their buds on the current season’s growth so they can be pruned in the late winter or early spring before spring growth without sacrificing any future flowers.
However, the other hydrangea varieties (showy big-leaf types including mopheads and many lace-cap varieties as well as oakleaf varieties) form their buds in the previous year. You can safely remove dead canes but if you feel the need to prune them further, wait until AFTER they have blossomed in the summer. If you prune in fall, winter, or early spring, that means no flowers this year.
‘Endless Summer’ is a macrophylla hybrid. Prune right after flowering by cutting back the flowering shoots to the next bud.
Upright blossoms on this panicle hydrangea make a stunning statement in a green garden. This type of hydrangea is pruned in late winter, before spring growth.
3. Not Enough Sun
Though hydrangeas are touted as being great shade plants, but we’re talking about part shade. (See shade definitions.)
To flower well, these shrubs need 3 to 4 hours of direct sun each day.
They grow best with morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in hot southern gardens. They can take more sun in cool northern areas, especially if the soil is moist.
Oakleaf hydrangeas do better than the others in shady places.
When you first planted your hydrangea it might have been the perfect location but after a few years the surrounding trees and shrubs may have grown enough to cast more shade on it. Try pruning the plants around them to let in more light or, if your hydrangea isn’t too big to handle, move it to a sunnier spot.
4. Too Much Nitrogen
If grown in good soil with a high amount of organic matter your hydrangeas don’t really need extra fertilizer. Adding too much nitrogen will promote lush green growth at the expense of flowering.
If you have poor soil and feel it is necessary to add fertilizer look for one low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus—sometimes called a bloom booster.
‘Annabelle’ is a popular smooth hydrangea that will flower midsummer.
5. Lack of Water
The “hydra” in the word “hydrangea” should tell you that these flowers need to be well-hydrated to flower.
If your hydrangea is wilting in the sunlight or is drought-stressed, it is not going to blossom well, if at all.
Hydrangeas like consistently moist but well-drained soil, not waterlogged.
A layer of mulch can help keep the soil around their roots evenly moist.
A Word on Potted “Gift” Hydrangeas
If you were given a potted hydrangea as a gift, it’s usually not meant to grow in the ground. It’s a gift to enjoy as long as you can.
If want to try growing it outside, be aware that it might not be hardy in your region.
Since it was grown in a greenhouse and forced into bloom at an unnatural time, it may take years for it to recover and grow, if it survives at all.
It is worth a try but don’t expect it to blossom as copiously as it did in its foil-covered pot. It was grown for that one-time show at the expense of the long-term health of the plant.
All hydrangeas are not the same. Knowing what hydrangeas you already have or taking the time to research appropriate ones to add to your garden will go a long way toward ensuring your success with these classic garden plants.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/why-are-my-hydrangeas-not-blooming
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365 

picture of violas taking over image from Old Farmers Almanac

      ​Lovely weather today, lower humidity.  Temperature at 1:20 PM is 83 with humidity only at 47%.  ENJOY today because tomorrow the heat is back.  I found this article about garden thugs which I found interesting.  Remember it is the author talking Robin Sweetser about her garden and garden thugs.  I am a little surprised at some of the ones that are garden thugs.  What do you think?
Midsummer Maintenance for Nuisance Plants  by Robin Sweetser
“Garden thugs” are plants (not weeds) that quickly get out of control in the garden. They can really run amok and hog all the room if they’re not judiciously pruned, dug out, cut back, or thinned in midsummer. Here’s how to keep these bullies from taking over!
Last week I was making iced tea and wanted to add some spearmint to the brew. It grows in a flowerbed near the kitchen. I couldn’t find it! Though I pass by this flowerbed many times each day, obviously, I haven’t paid much attention to this bed. It had been choked out by other plants.
Ironically, mint is a common garden thug, notorious for its habit of overrunning a garden, but that was not the case here. A turf war was raging under my nose and the violets and goutweed were winning.
I intentionally planted the most rugged and hardy plants in this bed since it’s near an area that has poor soil and gets piled by snow. These plants, including mint, would become invasive thugs if they were being grown in better soil, more sun, and had a little extra water thrown their way in the summer. None of that is the case, so this is truly a Darwin garden where only the strong survive. I finally had to step in though and do some editing—a nice term for long overdue maintenance.
10 Plants That Need to Be Chopped, Thinned & Dug Out
Here are some of my own plants that just aren’t behaving in the garden.
First, the violets had to go. Never fear, next spring there will still be plenty of them to give a nice show of blossoms, as they are virtually impossible to totally eradicate. Their shiny heart-shaped leaves are a nice groundcover or understory plant in the right place, but I have way too many of them. Shade or sun—they don’t care.
Next, it was time to deal with the goutweed (Aegopodium agraria)—pretty, but dangerous. Don’t trust it! It attacks from above and below, spreading by underground runners and seeds. I was surprised to see it for sale at a reputable nursery this spring and had to restrain myself from saying what I was thinking. “Are you crazy selling this stuff! Don’t you know how invasive it is?” A former owner of my house must have thought it was pretty and planted it here. Probably the same person who thought planting burning bush (Euonymous alata) was a good idea. I have been fighting with both for years!
Then, the New England asters got chopped in half to cut them down to size. Even so, they still will eventually tower over the rest of the plants in the bed. I don’t know where all the phlox have come from. They have extensive root systems, but birds also spread the seeds so some of these plants must have traveled from the other side of the yard. I ripped out most of them to prevent a hostile takeover and chopped the rest in half to give the plants around them a fighting chance.
Goldenrod is great for late summer color and a pollinator favorite, but enough is enough! It rudely rides roughshod over its neighbors and most of it had to go.
Rambunctious Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium caeruleum) is holding its ground against the domineering astilbe, so I let them continue to duke it out on their own.
Lily-of-the-valley could easily overtake any garden if given the chance, but they struggle to gain a foothold in this battleground.
The obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana) usually does not live up to its name, but in this garden of plants behaving badly, it has been kept in check by its more aggressive neighbors.
Talking about space invaders, the great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) is another plant that appeared out of nowhere and has elbowed its way into this bed and several others. I do love the blue flowers later in the season, but they need to quit hogging all the room.
The tawny day lily is another plant that does not play well with others. I have tried to mix day lilies in other colors with them only to find that the tawnys have taken over. Now they have their own bed and are kept in check by mowing around the edges.
Years ago I found some vinca growing near an abandoned cellar hole in the woods and brought a piece home to plant on the shady north side of the house. Any plant that can grow for 100 years with no attention is my kind of plant. I should have known better! Given an inch, it has taken a mile. Now I see why it is on the invasive species lists in many states.
That said, be wary of pass-along plants that you might be gifted with. Will they be friend or foe? Many are fine but some may be rampant growers that you will eventually regret planting. When buying plants look out for watchwords like “vigorous grower”, “fast spreading”, “exuberant”, “thrives in sun or shade”, “self-sows freely”, or the dreaded “good for erosion control”. All of them could spell trouble down the road. The upside to spending a few hours removing some of the thugs from my garden is that now I have room to plug in some annuals for season-long color and can plant some new perennials!
P.S. Some other common garden thugs include: blackberries, horseradish, Japanese anemones, the herbs fennel and dill, amaranth, and butterfly bush.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/cutting-back-and-thinning-summer-plants
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from the spruce

​      IT is still humid out, but it is cloudy. Sun might be coming thru the clouds  We got a little rain last night  but  I will need to start watering.  Wind is out of NE tomorrow so looking for a cooler and less humid day.  I am working on planting for the fair.  GETTING READY for the fair, which we have been doing since Josh was in 4-H which was 1989.  Now Josh and Amy’s family are in 4-H and they are getting ready for their fairs.  Floyd County and Mitchell County….it just goes on.   Guess you would say a family tradition.  Larry painted a tractor for using at the fair.  I am planting and organizing plants to bring down. We have baskets to hang for display.  We will be there by the gazebo with many plants, and fun things to look at.  We are close to the ice cream and popcorn.  When I say things  to look at, I have many that will walk around and look at the plants eating those goodies. They will meet family and friends there and have a good visit.  IT is a garden on wheels and gives them that feeling.  We are glad to provide that for the fair goers. 
 I have planted 100’s of containers over the 33 years at the greenhouse.  Here are some good points to use when you are planting them or replanting to make them look good.  FERTILZIING ….
The ABCs of fertilizing containers  by Doreen G. Howard
For flower and vegetable containers that look great all summer long, a continuous supply of nutrients is an absolute must. Here are tips for feeding plants in pots, including a simple 3-step process that ensures your pots are getting what they need.
The Importance of Nutrients
My containers filled with petunias, salvia, lettuces, and tomatoes looked awful, especially when compared to those I planted in the ground later. I was accidentally starving the container plants because I didn’t replace nutrients that were leached out of the potting mix every time I watered. Unlike plants in the ground, which have roots to seek out additional nutrients, container plants are effectively quarantined from the nutrients, fungi, and bacteria naturally found in soil.
If you’re going to grow plants in containers, you’re also going to need to lend a helping hand. Plants exhaust the available nutrients in containers within about six weeks, even if you’re using a high-quality potting soil or compost.
Sure, you can sprinkle in some fertilizer pellets, as you might do with vegetables grown in the ground. But even that won’t be enough for some container plants, especially tomatoes and other big feeders! A regular liquid feed is best. You can buy liquid fertilizers or make your own. Diluted with water, they provide a shot of extra nutrients that ensures plants continue to grow well and be productive.
My 3-Step Container Fertilizer Program
Now I use this three-step fertilizer program, and my container gardens flourish. Be sure to fertilize…
1. …when you are filling your containers with potting mix.
When you are starting your containers, incorporate fertilizer pellets into your potting mix. (If the potting mix contains fertilizer, skip this step.) You want “slow-release” fertilizer pellets that are coated with a polymer that lets them dissolve at varied rates; the thicker the coating, the long it takes for the fertilizer in pellets to be released into the potting mix. Most brands feed plants for at least 60 days, but some supply a steady stream of nutrients for up to 120 days. Check the label on any product you buy for this information.
Slow-release food is also available in organic form. Fish meal pellets are formulated similarly to synthetic fertilizers. Cotton seed meal, feather meal, and alfalfa pellets are other slow-release, organic choices. All feed plants for about 60 days. The alfalfa also contains a hormone, triacontanol, which promotes plant growth.
2. …as your plants grow.
Apply a water-soluble (liquid) fertilizer to supplement the slow-release fertilizer. Water-soluble ones deliver nutrients directly to plant roots and are easy to apply. Just dissolve them in water and pour the liquid into the container for a nutritional boost. Follow package directions for dilution rates and the amount of fertilizer to use on each container.
If you are buying liquid fertilizer, there are many types on the market. You want an equal ratio of “N-P-K” (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium), which are the three nutrients that plants need the most of. A fertilizer with an equal amount of each nutrient is commonly called a “balanced” fertilizer, which you’ll see reflected in the label (e.g., 10-10-10). However, for plants such as tomatoes and peppers and other fruiting plants, choose a liquid fertilizer with a higher K number.
Organic choices such as fish meal emulsion and liquid kelp work very well, too. In fact, some plants, like ferns and lettuce, respond better to organic products than to synthetic fertilizers.
I like to use a liquid feed made from seaweed. I water all my vegetables with a dilute seaweed feed about once a month. Fruiting vegetables will need a tomato feed weekly (alternating with the seaweed feed once a month). Fertilize throughout the growing season from spring until late summer.
Note: There are some container plants that really do not need to be fed as they grow. Cut-and-come-again lettuces or other salad leaves don’t typically need a regular feed, as they are usually harvested before they use up their supply. Herbs shouldn’t need to be fed at all, particularly lavender, thyme, or rosemary; they do best in nutrient-poor, drier conditions.
3. …if plants appear stressed or need a pick-me up.
If plants need a quick pick-me-up due to stressors (such as extreme temperatures or drought) or heavy production of flowers or fruit, apply fertilizer directly to plants’ leaves. Deadhead old blooms, cut back damaged foliage, and then spray water-soluble fertilizer on leaf tops and undersides. The foliar spray delivers nutrients directly to where photosynthesis takes place. Results are dramatic—you’ll see growth or renewal almost overnight.
If plants are looking a bit under the weather, I water with my diluted seaweed solution or even spray the seaweed solution directly onto the leaves and that will often sort them out.
Use any spray bottle or garden sprayer and follow dilution rates given on the fertilizer package.
A word of caution about foliar feeding: Don’t do it when temperatures are above 90ºF or when the sun is beating on plants directly. The fertilizer could burn leaves. The best time to foliar feed is in the morning or early evening.
Make Your Own Liquid Fertilizer
Liquid fertilizer can get pricy, depending on the size of your container garden, so consider making your own by steeping “weeds” or other nutrient-packed plants in water.
Comfrey is commonly used in homemade liquid fertilizer. It’s great for fruiting vegetables because it contains a good dose of potassium. Nettles or borage can be used in the same way for a higher-nitrogen alternative, which is beneficial for leafy vegetables.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/abcs-fertilizing-containers
Compost Tea
You could also make a “Compost Tea,” which is a good overall plant health booster (a little like vitamins for people) and helps plants be better able to resist pests and diseases.
What is Compost Tea?
Compost tea is a liquid produced by extracting beneficial microorganisms (microbes)—bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, and micro arthropods—from compost using a brewing process. A true compost tea contains all of the organisms that were present in the compost before brewing. The brewed water extract should also have soluble nutrients from the compost.
Benefits of Compost Tea
Compost tea is a good overall plant health booster (a little like vitamins for people), and healthy plants are better able to resist pests and diseases.
Good tea improves soil health. A healthy soil is less likely to leach nutrients down beyond plant root zones. If soil is nutrient-rich, the need for fertilizer is minimized.
Compost tea improves the water retention capacity of soil, which reduces the need for frequent watering.
Soil structure is improved with regular applications of compost tea. (Good soil structure is important for nutrient and water retention and accessibility.) The biological components in a soil are what create its structure. For good structure, all organism groups in the food web—bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, and micro arthropods—need to be present. When you add tea, you add these microbes.
Compost tea helps loosen clay soils for air and water to move, and helps sandy soils retain water and nutrients.
Plant root growth is stimulated by compost tea applications. Deeper roots retain moisture better and help to reduce runoff.
When sprayed onto plants, compost tea adds beneficial microbes to foliage. By occupying leaf surfaces, these organisms prevent potential disease organisms from gaining a foothold.
Compost tea combats the negative impact chemical-based pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers have on beneficial microorganisms.
Unlike store-bought fertilizers, tea recipes can be developed and fine-tuned to target specific conditions and plant needs.
How to Make Compost Tea
You can buy compost tea in stores in powder form (though be sure to test it out first).
Or, you can make your own! Compost tea can be made with or without aeration, and with or without adding supplemental nutrient sources like molasses that feed microbes. For best results, aeration and supplements are recommended, and the right compost is critical.
This sample compost tea recipe is good for vegetable crops:
Materials
5-gallon bucket, filled with water (let it sit for 24 hours to allow chlorine to evaporate)
1 fish tank aerator
1 compost tea brewing bag (either purchase one online or make one from a scrap of meshed material such as row covering, tied with twine—it should be large enough to hold 5 to 6 pounds of dry ingredients)
1 aquarium thermometer
Ingredients
1 large handful of compost
1 handful of garden soil
2 handfuls of straw
3–5 leaves from a healthy plant
1 cup fish hydrolysate (pulverized fish, available at most garden centers)
1 cup seaweed extract (available at most garden centers)
Instructions
Put the first five ingredients ingredients into the tea bag, tie the bag tightly and submerge it in the bucket of water. Add the fish hydrolysate and seaweed extract liquids directly to the water. Place the aerator in the bucket and turn it on. Brew the tea for about 36 hours, monitoring temperature—the optimal temperature is between 68° and 72°F. Dilute it to a 3 parts tea to 1part water ratio before spraying. Fill a backpack sprayer. Spray early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid burning leaves in the midday sun.
Tip: If you do not have a backpack sprayer, apply tea to the soil using a gallon jug, and a spray bottle to mist the foliage.
Best Practices
Monitor your brewing conditions. With each new batch, take note of the following:
Temperature of water during brewing; if you are unable to reach the optimal temperature range, consider buying a small submersible aquarium heater, available at most pet stores.
Any microbial foods added to the brew (and quantities); this is helpful information to have should you need to tweak the recipe later.
Length of time tea is brewed; if you find your tea is not having the desired effects, you may want to increase the brewing time.
The more information you have, the better equipped you will be to make changes to your recipe and/or brewing conditions, if need be.
Tip: Use the tea immediately after brewing; the longer it sits, the less active and effective it will be.
Clean Up
Be sure to clean your equipment and spray tank well between each brew (dirty equipment can breed harmful bacteria). Hydrogen peroxide or ammonia are appropriate cleaning agents.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/how-make-compost-tea
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 

baskets for the Franklin Co Fair 

WOW  I have been  Busy with watering and making sure the plants look good.  I am still open but July hours are from 9-6 Monday thru Friday.  I am open this week. July 5-8.  Looking at the calendar the following week of July 10th we will be getting ready to go to the Franklin Co fair.  I have been asked are you going to the fair?  Yes I will be there.  So that week, moving plants and stuff to set up the booth area.  I have some beautiful baskets for the ice cream parlor and General store.  BUT it is a challenge as we have one deer that has figured out how to get in thru the plastic tape.  AND you know what she likes….those plants in the baskets.  Keep trying new things and different ways of trying to keep the deer out.  She loves the big leaf red begonias.  I will let you know if I win this battle. I had my first day off on Saturday July 2 after being open and working 78 days in a row.  That isn’t counting the weeks before that planting.  We had a good rain 4th of July morning, so don’t need to water today.  At the looks of it we will be getting more rain this afternoon, evening. We could use the rain, but none of that wind or hail. Be safe ALL….
​
Here is an interesting article about watering in hot weather, which we are having today.
Watering Wisely in Drought or Hot Weather
Water your garden wisely, especially in the heat of summer or in areas with drought. See 12 ways to avoid wasting water in the yard and garden—and help your plants survive and even thrive!
An inch of water a week, is that too much to ask for? It doesn't seem like much but that is the optimum amount for growing most vegetables and ornamentals. If you spread that inch of water out over a 10x10 foot space it equals 62 gallons! What's a gardener to do, especially when some areas have restricted or even banned outdoor water use?
Drought across the West has gardeners rethinking their use of water so it's not wasted. Let' consider how to water as efficiently and effectively as possible, while ensuring our garden plants thrive!
What's the smartest way to water our plants?
Water deeply, less often.  Water must go way down to the roots! Soak your garden thoroughly when the soil is dry; this encourages a strong, deep root system that grows down in search of water and nutrients. Sprinkling or lightly watering daily will result in a shallow root system; they will become stressed if they don't get their frequent drink of water and won't be resilient with changing weather.
To "water deeply" means to water with a hose or watering can at least 6 to 8 inches below the soil surface level! In normal weather, water deeply about every 10 days. However, you'll need to water 3 times a week in high heat! Container plants will need to be watered every single day when it's super hot; water gently until it flows from the container.
Only water the plants that really need it. Not all plants are the same so check different areas of the garden for soil moisture at root level if you’re unsure by digging a small hole with a trowel, or simply by poking your finger in. If it’s cool and damp, just move on.
We also recommend a cheap water meter; they come on a spike that you quickly put into the ground in different areas and will tell you when to water!
 Avoid mid-day watering to discourage evaporation. It's best to water in the morning. (In drought areas, avoid watering between 10 A.M. and 8 P.M.) If you use a sprinkler, water in the morning so that the foliage will dry early and quickly to minimize disease risk.
 Trap water. Plant into natural depressions where water pools. Or build up soil around plants to capture water. Another idea is to build up small berms to create miniature reservoirs that hold the water in place so it has a chance to soak into the soil and avoids run-off.
Or, sink a plastic pot into the ground up to the rim next to especially thirsty plants (example: squash). Water into the pot which will then feed the water directly to the root zone.
Look for "indicator" plants. Droopy plant leaves are an easy cue that it's time to water. (The first crops to wilt are usually squash or cucumber.)
 Water at the plants' roots, not from above! Avoid wetting plant leaves! Aim water at the base of your plants. Keeping foliage dry has the added benefit of reducing disease problems.
Weed! Unwanted plants in your vegetable bed is simply competition for soil moisture, so keep on top of them. Annual weeds can just be hoed off and left on the soil surface, but take the time to dig out the roots of more pernicious perennials such as bindweed or ground elder.
Protect plants from water loss by using shade clothes in hot weather and protecting plants from wind with windbreaks. Use taller crops such as corn to also cast shade and protect smaller plants. Sprawling vines also protect the soil.
To automate watering, look into drip irrigation or leaky hoses over sprinklers which waste a lot of water. These types of irrigation deliver water closer to the plants' roots where it is needed. An inch of water slowly dripped onto the soil over a six hour period will soak in and not run off. Dig into the soil an hour after watering to see how deep the moisture went. Adjust the flow and timing accordingly.
If you already have an irrigation system, be sure to check the emitters each year as the may watering plants or shrubs that no longer exist; cap them off or move them to avoid waste.
If you are using a sprinkler, use a rain gauge or tuna can in different parts of your garden and measure the water. This helps you test the spread of water over your lawn and see if the sprinkler is watering evenly, so you can make adjustments. Once you get a sense of the watering schedule, consider using timers. Also look for sprinkler heads that use larger droplets (vs a finer spray), as you will be less likely to lose water due to evaporation.
If you are watering with a hose, avoid wasting water by using a long watering wand with a push button or easy shutoff lever. This way you can carefully water each plant at ground level.
Over-watering plants can be just as damaging to plants as drought. 
Incorporate lots of organic matter. This is critical for a good garden and even more important during a dry season. Build up your soil by adding lots of compost. Good soil absorbs water like a sponge and improves water-holding capacity.
 Mulch around the base of your plants to conserve water. Place straw, bark, pine needles or leaf mulch around your plants to help slow the evaporation of water from the soil.
It takes 1 inch of water 8 times longer to evaporate from mulched soil than from bare soil.
Mulch prevents compaction and acts as a cushion during heavy rainfall helping water to soak in rather than run off. Runoff not only wastes water but can pollute nearby streams. Bare soil can lose up to 3/4 of the rain that falls on it to runoff and evaporation.
Mulch moderates soil temperatures and also squelches those weeds that compete with your plants for precious moisture.
 Collect rainwater off your roof, greenhouse, shed, and gutters into water barrels close to where you’ll most need the water. Learn more about rain barrels.
Have a lawn? Be sure to keep the grass longer. Why? It dries out faster when short; long blades will shade and cool the lawn. It's also best to mow at a higher height to control weeds which steal water from other plants. 
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/watering-wisely-drought-or-hot-weather
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365