image from  https://thesucculenteclectic.com/identifying-types-of-succulents-pictures/

       ​     I can have lots of posts about succulents and with pictures.  See how this goes.    Can you tell what these succulents are called.
Recognizing Different Types of Succulents
identifying succulents by distinct characteristics - comparing sempervivum and echeveria
Any plant that stores water in its leaves, stems or roots is classified as a succulent. Many varieties look wildly different from one another. But some types of succulents look very similar. Echeveria and Sempervivum are two genera that are often confused for one another. Both share the same common name hens and chicks. They look similar, with each plant forming a large rosette. They reproduce in a similar fashion, each forming offsets
Succulent offsets are the baby succulents that form at the b...
 that grow beside the primary rosette. Yet one thrives at temperatures well below zero and the other dies with a single freeze.
Over time, you will become able to recognize more different types of succulents just by sight. Even if you cannot tell a sempervivum from an echeveria now, if you continue to look and seek the distinctions, soon you’ll recognize their differences. Sounds weird, I know. But just as you know your own child, even when they’re in a sea of other kids… Or you know your own cat, separate from all others… Recognizing small distinctions is a talent we all share. We just use this talent for different things. Maybe you can spot the difference between muscle cars of the 1960s. I can tell between a wolf and a coyote. Some people instantly distinguish between a Cabernet of different vintages or identify bird species by their calls. It just takes practice.
You can see one clear distinction between sempervivum and echeveria in the photo above. Do you see the many, tiny hairs all along the leaf margin of the sempervivum? Those are ciliate hairs. They collect dew for the plant in its arid habitat. Sempervivum have these ciliate hairs, but few echeveria do. If your plant has tiny hairs all along the margin — most likely it’s not an echeveria.
Taken from https://thesucculenteclectic.com/identifying-types-of-succulents-pictures/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell phone 641-903-9365

      ​Ok, here is one I need help to identify hope this is harder for you.  Thanks for the posting to ask for more. Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

      ​I enjoyed having you guess what the plants are.  So here is plant for today.  What is it?  In fact these are on my wagons ready to go into your garden and enjoy.  They are easy to grow and will come back next year more and more growth on them.  These bloom later in the summer so if you had some bloom in June and July, these will be later for that continuous color in the garden.  What are they? 
 
 
Stargazer lilies are a type of oriental lily hybrid plant that can add stunning colors and fragrant aromas to any garden. Stargazer lily flowers usually bloom from the middle of summer until the end of summer. Their large colorful flowers ranging from light pink to deep crimson colors give off strong scents. Apart from looking stunning, gardeners love to grow Stargazer lily plants because they grow tall and are easy to grow.
Although their flowers look like stars, Stargazer lilies get their name from the fact that the stems grow tall and the flowers look to the heavens. Stargazer lilies thrive well even in poor soil and can grow to a height of 3 ft. (0.9 m). Each stem can grow between 2 and 8 colorful flowers measuring around 6″ (15 cm) in diameter.
What is a Stargazer Lily Plant (Oriental Lily)?
The Stargazer lily (Lilium) is a popular hybrid of lily plant similar to Japanese wild red lilies and Asiatic lilies. They are also called “starburst lilies,” “starlight lilies,” or just “Stargazers.”
Stargazer lily flowers grow on the top of tall stems and produce stunning blooms during summer. From many of the oriental lilies, Stargazers are one of the easiest types of lilies to grow in your garden or in containers.
Stargazer lilies grow from bulbs and you can plant them in well-draining sandy soil. However, they will also grow in clay soil.
Stargazer plant flowers
Undoubtedly, one of the most striking features of Stargazer lily plants is their spectacular flowers. When they are blooming in July and August, Stargazer flowers will transform your garden with vibrant floral blooms.
Unlike most types of lilies whose flowers droop down, these hybrid lily flowers point up towards the skies. This allows you to take in the beauty of these large pink showy flowers.
Stargazer lily flowers are generally dark pink or crimson in the middle which gradually fades to the edge of the petals. The petal edges and tips are often shades of white to very light pink.
Star lily flowers have large petals that bloom wide open, and some types of Stargazers have petals that curve back on themselves. In the center of the flower are long striking stamens covered in dark yellow pollen.
Some say that double bloom stargazer lily flowers are even more stunning with their multiple rows of bright pink petals.
Another striking feature of Stargazer blooms is the dark crimson speckles that seem to almost cover the entire flower. Just one oriental lily Stargazer stem can produce up to and 8 large vivacious flowers.
When do star lily flowers bloom?
You can expect your oriental lily to bloom in mid-to-late summer. Stargazer lily bulbs that have been planted in the spring should grow and flower usually by July or August.
When they have finished blooming, you should deadhead each flower. Because Stargazers are perennial plants, they will grow and flower year after year if they are in the right conditions.
What do Stargazer lilies smell like?
The scent of oriental lilies and Stargazers are best described as strong fragrant aromas. The pungent sweet exotic scents coming off blooming Stargazers are a delight in any garden.
For some people, though, the pungent smell of Stargazers can be too overpowering. The strong scent from oriental lily varieties can cause headaches, nausea, and even breathing difficulties if the blooms are in enclosed spaces.
Stargazer Lily: The Most Popular Varieties
Star gazer lilies are a variety of hybrid oriental lilies that are easy to grow and resistant to disease. Being a type of oriental lily, Stargazers are more fragrant and taller than Asiatic varieties of lilies.
There are 3 main varieties of Stargazer lilies you can grow in containers or in your garden:
Pink Stargazer is the most common type of “star gazing” lily that has deep pink or red blooms. The Pink Stargazer is a hardy lily hybrid that grows well in partial sun and in direct sunlight.
White Stargazer lilies produce large white stunning lily blooms with petals that curl back, giving off strong fragrances. White Stargazer lilies grow well in full sun and are slightly shorter than the more common Pink Stargazer variety.
Golden Stargazer is a recent newcomer compared to the traditional Pink Stargazer. The blooms of this type of oriental hybrid lily are rich golden colors that are sometimes speckled with red spots. Golden Stargazers bloom in late summer during the months of July and August.
Other types of oriental hybrids that are not Stargazers include varieties such as Black Beauty, Casa Blanca, and Mona Lisa.
How to Grow and Care For Star Lilies
Star lilies are perennial plants that are easy to grow and will flower annually. Stargazers grow well in sandy soil and require regular watering during the summer to keep the soil moist.
After the growing season when the foliage dies back, you can cut the stems back to allow the lily bulbs to regain energy to start growing in the following spring.
Many gardeners like to grow lilies at the back row of a flower bed where they make a beautiful floral backdrop. Lilies look best when planted together to make their blooms even more eye-catching.
Planting Stargazer Lilies in Containers
Stargazer lily plants grow well in containers and can create stunning floral showpieces on a balcony, patio, or decking area. With the right care and attention, you can also plant lilies in containers to grow indoors.
To grow Stargazer lilies in containers, you will need a pot about 7” (17 cm) in diameter. Choose soil that is slightly acidic to neutral which drains well. Put your oriental lily bulbs about 6” into the soil and water well.
The best time to plant Stargazer lily bulbs in pots is in the spring. However, you can also plant them at any time during the growing season and you may get blooms by late summer.
Planting Stargazer Lilies in Your Garden
Most gardeners plant these summer-blooming lily hybrids in their garden to make attractive colorful displays. Lilies planted in the garden are also good for attracting butterflies and hummingbirds.
When to Plant Oriental Lilies
The best time to plant Stargazer bulbs in your garden is in early spring so that they have time to start growing and flowering by mid to late-summer.
You will need to plant oriental lily bulbs quite deep and the recommended depth is 6” (15 cm). Plant the bulbs in soil that drains well and has a pH value of between 6.5 and 6.9.
You can also plant Stargazer lily bulbs in the fall. This will allow them to establish a good root system to start growing and blooming by the following summer. During the winter time, you can cover the soil with mulch to help protect the bulbs from freezing conditions.
Remove the mulch in early spring and cover with light organic compost to encourage healthy lily growth.
Where to Plant Stargazer Lily Bulbs?
Stargazer lily plants thrive best when planted in areas of your garden that get plenty of sun.
You should also make sure that “Star gazer” bulbs are planted in soil that drains well but retains moisture. In hot climates, mulching is recommended to help keep moisture in and prevent the soil from drying out.
When choosing the best place in your garden to plant your lily bulbs, choose an area where your tall blooming plants will create a colorful feature.
You can also plant lilies close by each other about a foot apart. This will result in clusters of stunning pink, white or golden blooms in the summertime.
How to Care for Stargazer Lilies
One of the beauties about growing Stargazer oriental lily hybrids is that they require little care throughout the year.
However, here are a few growing tips for oriental lilies to ensure good, healthy growth.
 
Light requirements for healthy lily plants
Although Stargazer lilies can tolerate partial shade, they need plenty of sunlight to grow to their full height. To help keep lilies flowering all summer, you should also plant companion plants around them to provide shade for their roots.
How to water Stargazer lilies for good growth
You will need to water your Stargazer lilies growing in pots or your garden enough so that the soil is kept moist. Be careful of over-watering as this can cause roots to rot if ground conditions get soggy.
Soil requirements
Lilies are easy to grow even in less than ideal soil conditions. However, to maximize growth potential, make sure soil is slightly on the acidic side and is well-drained. It is also good to have plenty of organic matter worked into the ground.
Fertilizer for oriental lilies
Even though Stargazer plants will grow without much attention, feeding will encourage large, healthy blooms.
The best way to care for your stargazer lilies is to dig in organic compost around your lilies in early spring. This will provide plenty of nutrients for the blooming time throughout the summer and also help keep the soil moist.
If you decide to use a commercial fertilizer, then a 10-10-10 variety which includes equal percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is sufficient. You should fertilize in early spring for best results.
When and How to Prune Stargazer Lilies
Star lilies benefit from yearly pruning to encourage growth and keep the plants healthy.
Because the splendid perennial blooms and double blooms make for stunning floral displays, you may want to cut off the flowers and put in a vase indoors. If you do this, you can cut off the anthers from the stamens that protrude from the middle of the flower. This prevents yellow pollen staining fabrics, carpets, and clothing.
Stargazer lilies will bloom well every year when you deadhead flowers after they have bloomed. Cut the flower stalk where it joins to the stem. Caring for your oriental lily plant this way prevents seed pods from forming and helps the bulbs grow.
You can prune your lily stems near the ground only when the foliage starts to turn brown.
In most climates, lily bulbs survive well throughout the winter and may only require some mulch to protect them from the cold.
How to Transplant Stargazer Lilies
At some point, you may think about transplanting your Stargazer lily plants. Perennial plants such as oriental lilies grow each year and may outgrow their space.
It is just as easy to transplant Stargazer lilies as it is to grow and care for them. Choose an area of your garden behind shorter plants that gets plenty of sun all day.
To transplant your lilies, carefully dig up the lily bulbs. You will notice that mature lilies have smaller bulbs growing around them that you can separate off and use them for propagation. Replant the bulbs where you want your lilies to grow. Mature bulbs should be 5” to 6” (12 – 15 cm) in the ground and the smaller bulbs can be 3” to 4” (7 – 10 cm) deep. Cover the bulbs with soil, water well and place a layer of mulch over the newly-planted lily bulbs.
The best time to transplant Stargazer oriental lilies is after they have stopped blooming at the end of summer.
For the most striking effect, plant your lilies in groups of 3 or more and plant the bulbs around 9” to 12” (22 – 30 cm) apart.
To transplant Stargazer hybrids from their containers to your yard, follow the same instructions for transplanting lilies in your garden.
Diseases that Can Affect Stargazer Lily Plants
Although Stargazer lilies are hardy plants that grow in most sunny climates, there are a few diseases and pests that can affect them.
The Royal Horticultural Society reports that lily fungus can cause brown spots to appear on leaves. If left unchecked, this fungal disease can destroy the whole leaf. If you notice yellowing leaves that have brown spots, you should remove them and destroy them to prevent further infection.
If lily bulbs become infected with fungal disease or viruses, they should be removed and destroyed. To prevent new lilies from becoming infected, don’t plant them in areas affected by fungi or viruses for at least 5 years.
Lily beetles are a type of garden pest that lays eggs on lilies. Larvae then start eating the leaves as they grow. An infestation of lily beetles can stunt the growth of lilies and prevent them from blooming the following year.
You can spot lily beetles by their bright red wing cases and black head. You may also notice that holes appear in your lily leaves due to beetles gorging on the foliage. From early spring, regularly check your lilies for any signs of pest infestation and remove beetle larvae as necessary.
Some organic or natural pesticides can be helpful in controlling pests that infest your garden.
For example, neem oil natural insecticides can help to repel lily beetles and stop them from damaging your plants.
Also, you can sprinkle diatomaceous earth (DE) around your plants to help eradicate lily beetles and other bugs that attack your plants. Learn more about using diatomaceous earth as a pest control in your garden.
How to Care for Lily Flowers Indoors
Freshly cut Stargazer lily flowers can create a colorful pink, white, or golden display of stunning blooms in any room.
If you want to enjoy beautiful lily flowers in your home, you may cut off the end of the stamen where the pollen is. Removing the pollen will not only help preserve the length of time your cut flowers last but will also prevent pollen stains on fabric.
Taken from https://leafyplace.com/stargazer-lily/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337
Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from the sprucegarden.com

       Going to have some fun.  This picture came up on the internet and I knew what it was.  How many of you can id this flower?  I am thinking a lot.  GOOD luck.  More humidity today, sun is out, then the clouds show up.  Suppose to have less humidity in the days to come.  HOPE so.  Not so much fun to work outside when you are warm.  Be safe. 




​
If you're looking for low maintenance, drought-tolerant, long-blooming and cheerful plants for a flower border or a filler, coreopsis are a perfect choice. With more than 80 species of coreopsis, plus many selections and hybrids, there's a perfect plant for your sunny garden. About half of the varieties are Native North American prairie and woodland plants, while the others are native to Central and South America. Their ruggedness and profuse blooms have made them popular with plant breeders. Their common name, "tickseed," is supposedly for the seeds' resemblance to ticks. Even so, birds (particularly Goldfinches) love to snack on the seeds during fall and winter. Bees and butterflies are drawn to their colorful blooms. Their daisy-like flowers range in colors from bright yellow and orange to pink and red. Coreopsis form upright clumps and have a moderate growth rate. Plant them any time from early spring to fall, once danger of frost has passed. Annual varieties will start blooming in early summer and repeat bloom periodically through fall, while perennial varieties will begin blooming the second year after planting..
coreopsis flowers
The Spruce / Adrienne Legault
Botanical Name Coreopsis
Common Name Tickseed, Pot of Gold
Plant Type           Perennial flower
Mature Size        10 to 18 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide
Sun Exposure    Full sun, part shade
Soil Type              Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH  5.5 to 6.5
Bloom Time        Summer
Flower Color       Yellow, orange, pink, red
Hardiness Zones               4-9
Native Area        Prairie and woodlands of North America
How to Grow Coreopsis
You can find a handful of coreopsis varieties for sale as plants. For the best selection, order from catalogs or start your plants from seed. Hardiness will vary with species and cultivar, and not all coreopsis varieties are perennial plants—you'll find both annuals and perennials. Many of the newer varieties are still being tested for hardiness, and their ratings may change.
Mature size varies with species, age, and growing conditions, with coreopsis plants reaching from six inches to four feet in height with a spread of about 12 to 24 inches. They tend to grow in clumps, but many varieties will self-sow throughout your garden. There are also a few that will spread by runners. Some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer and fall. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead, and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Light
Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial sun. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade. In areas with intense heat, coreopsis may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Soil
Most coreopsis varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. They like well-draining soils and some, such as the thread leaf coreopsis, will tolerate dry, rocky soils. Heavy, wet clay soils should be amended with compost to help drainage.
Water
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted until they are established. After the first year, they are drought tolerant, but they'll bloom most prolifically with regular watering. Water the plants deeply at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be moist at about one inch below the soil surface (stick your finger in the soil to check.) Early morning watering is best, so the leaves have a chance to dry during the day.
Temperature and Humidity
Coreopsis plants prefer a warm climate. They dislike too much standing water, which can cause root rot. Occasional wet weather won't bother them, though.
Fertilizer
Fertilization of growing coreopsis is not necessary—in fact, too much fertilizer may inhibit flower production. If soils are already good, all you should need to do is add a little compost in the spring.
Propagating Coreopsis
Although they are rugged plants, they don't tend to live more than three to five years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed. For perennial coreopsis, if they begin looking weak with fewer flowers after three years or so, divide them if needed in spring or early fall.
Dig Plants
Dig up the plants.
Divide Plants
Use a trowel to divide the plants into smaller sections.
Replant
Replant and keep them well-watered until they are established and growing, which can take several weeks.
Varieties of Coreopsis
Coreopsis Grandiflora 'Early Sunrise': Large, semi-double bright yellow flowers starting in early summer
Coreopsis Grandiflora 'Golden Showers': Profuse, cheery yellow blooms on long stems
Coreopsis Verticillata 'Moonbeam': Buttery yellow flowers on a compact plant; extremely airy
Coreopsis Verticillata 'Zagreb': Golden yellow flowers on compact plant; dependable
Coreopsis Rosea 'Nana': Mauve-pink, dwarf variety; spreads nicely but not as drought tolerant
Coreopsis Grandiflora 'Early Sunrise'
Coreopsis Verticillata 'Moonbeam'
Growing Coreopsis From Seeds
Many, although not all, coreopsis varieties can be grown from seed, either started indoors six to eight weeks before your last expected frost or direct seeded outdoors after last frost. Many will seed themselves; however, the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
 
Common Pests and Diseases
For the most part, coreopsis plants grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/growing-and-using-coreopsis-in-the-flower-garden-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 

image from farmers almanac

      ​    This is what we had last few weeks.  Humidity.  This week so far it has been lower and lovely weather.  Almost perfect summer morning.  I found that the sky that you see will tell you about the humidity.  Have a look up and see if it is true or not. Enjoy the day. 
In most of the Northern Hemisphere, July is the hottest month. But when folks grumble about feeling uncomfortable, they often say, “It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity.” That’s so true. Look up to the skies to know it’s going to be humid! Here’s how.
HOW CAN YOU TELL THAT IT’S HUMID?
You can quickly judge moisture by glancing up.
A deep blue sky means dry air.
A light blue sky with a nearly white horizon means average humidity.
A sky that’s milky overhead is very humid. That’s the summertime norm in the Carolinas and the Gulf States.
Warm air can hold far more water than cold air. And the best measurement of the air’s dampness is dewpoint. That’s the temperature at which the current air mass, if cooled down, would not hold its moisture anymore, so its water changes from invisible gas to countless liquid droplets. It’s when fog forms and dew appears. When you breathe on a mirror, it fogs up because the cool glass has lowered your breath to its dewpoint.
WHAT IS HUMIDITY?
Let’s make sense of humidity. Bear with me.
Let’s say it’s early morning, the air is 68°F, and it’s holding all the water it can. This means that there’s fog outside or dew on the ground. Since this air is saturated at 68º, this air has a dewpoint of 68. Its relative humidity is 100%. The temperature and dewpoint are the same.
But six hours later at midday, the air is 95°F. This hot air is now capable of holding twice as much water, so the relative humidity is now 50%. Thanks to the increased temperature, the relative humidity has changed radically. Yet it’s the same air as before, moisture-wise. Its dewpoint is still 68°.
So dewpoint is a much better gauge of air moisture than relative humidity. It’s the language spoken by meteorologists and weather nerds.
WHEN IS AIR HUMID?
What’s important to know is that a dewpoint of 65ºF or higher means very humid air. A dewpoint in the low 60s is somewhat humid. A dewpoint in the 50s is pleasant. A dewpoint in the 40s feels wonderfully dry, like the air in Montana.
Here’s one more very cool fact: Air never cools below its dewpoint. So by looking up the current dewpoint, you instantly know the lowest the temperature can get to tonight. That’s assuming some new air mass isn’t marching in.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/astronomy/astronomy/its-not-heat-its-humidity
Till next time this is Becky Litterer Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

image from Old Farmers Almanac

      ​    I am posting a second time today.  This is from the almanac about the summer weather.  So what do you think for June and July?  Did they get it right?  So, see what August is going to bring.  I don’t like more hot weather, but we will take what we get. 
SUMMER WEATHER FORECAST FOR THE U.S.
WILL IT BE A HOT SUMMER?
If you like your summers nice and hot, you’re all set! Generally speaking, we’ve predicted that summer temperatures will be hotter than normal, with the hottest periods in mid-June, mid- to late July, and early August. Rainfall will be below normal in the north and above normal in the south.
June
June set the tone for the season. We predicted above-normal temperatures in the northeastern quarter of the United States, the Pacific Northwest, and Alaska; June temperatures were expected to be cooler than normal in most other areas, including Florida, the Southeast, the Intermountain region, and from Texas-Oklahoma west to the California coast.
Most areas were forecasted to have near- to above-normal rainfall in June, with drier weather expected in Northeast, Appalachians, Southeast, Desert Southwest, Pacific Northwest, Hawaii, and southern Alaska.
July
July will bring mostly good weather for outdoor activities—especially those near water—with temperatures above normal in nearly all of the northern half of the United States. In the Heartland and across the southern half of the United States, although temperatures will be near or slightly below normal, on average, there will still be plenty of hot days.
July rainfall will be below normal from the Northeast westward across the Great Lakes and Ohio Valley through the Upper Midwest and Heartland. Rainfall will also be below normal in the High Plains, Desert Southwest, and Pacific Northwest. Elsewhere in the United States, rainfall will be near or above normal, with well above–normal rainfall and many thunder bumpers in the Atlantic Corridor, Southeast, Deep South, Texas, and Oklahoma.
August
August will continue the trend of having good weather for outdoor activities, with summer temperatures near or above normal in most of the United States, although not as hot as normal from New England into Pennsylvania and New Jersey, in the Upper Midwest and Texas, from the Intermountain region and Desert Southwest to the Pacific, in Alaska, and on Oahu.
August rainfall will be below normal in Maine, around New York’s Finger Lakes, from Florida and the Southeast westward to Texas, and in the High Plains, Desert Southwest, southern Alaska, and Hawaii. Elsewhere in the United States, rainfall will be near or above norm.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/summer-weather-forecast
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

image from pinterset.com

       ​    I have missed a few days but also have had some time away from the greenhouse so that has been good.  It was an extremely hot and humid weekend.  We did end it with .2 of rain so that was a surprise.  I have gardeners ask if I am open.  I am open now.  The wagons are moved back to the blacktop and are looking well.  Star gazer lilies are budding out and they look awesome.  I am also working across the street in the green house, ( our home)  but will come over when I see you drive up.  I have corn to freeze and always I have bookwork to do.  Yes we still have lots of succulents, and in fact moving the rest out of the greenhouse.  I will not run out of these plants for a long time.  I need to propagate more because I know you love the .50 to $3.00 sizes.  I am open now Monday thru Friday from 9-6.  Stop in if you need something for that spot that needs color.  Have a good day and enjoy this almost perfect summer day.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 

  taken from ​https://www.arkansasonline.com/news/2020/jul/19/gardening-tougher-when-it-hot-and-humid/

      ​    I am looking out the window on a gorgeous day, but then when I walked out to start the watering. I changed my mind.  Humidity is back and so is the temperature.  Hard to work in the gardens or outside right now.  Maybe tonight when the sun goes down it will be better.  How are all of you doing? 
Here is an interesting article from a gardener in Arkansas.
Gardening is tougher when it is hot and humid!
by Janet Carson | July 19, 2020 at 4:45 p.m.
This past week was our hottest and most humid so far this year. Our upcoming week has slightly cooler temperatures predicted, but when you look at the heat index, you know the humidity must be a killer, because we are in the low 100’s for feel like temperatures every day! We have a slight chance of rain 2 days, but it doesn’t look like anything measurable. But think back to previous summers. At least our yards are still green, even those yards where no one waters. That could begin to change if this weather pattern continues. Right now, I feel like I have a hose fastened to me. The pots on the deck in particular need daily watering—and even with early morning soakings, I sometimes see some wilting by late afternoon.
I am hearing a lot of complaints that tomatoes are on standstill for ripening.
When temperatures get above 95, they are slow to ripen. I am still getting a ton of peppers and eggplants, and the squash are slowly coming back. I did not have squash vine borers but I was attacked by two army worms
(or at least that is how many I found!) I am still getting cucumbers and the okra is almost big enough to start blooming –it was a very late planting.
I don’t grow much from seed with the exception of a few vegetables, but this year I scattered some sunflower and zinnia seeds that I found in the garage. Both are blooming.
I think my sunflowers may be a bit confused. I have always thought they all faced the west or the sunny part of the yard, but I have some pointing in all directions.
The summer annuals are the best I have ever had—my gardens are a sea of color—and much of it orange!
I am also covered with Hydrangea paniculata varieties in full bloom all over the yard.
I have enjoyed spending time in the garden this year and watching the daily evolution. I have been seeing butterflies, and finally got some swallowtail caterpillars—no monarchs yet, in spite of milkweed in the yard! I was watching my baby swallowtails,and they were growing daily on my parsley and fennel. I was showing my son them one day and one of those horrid red wasps swooped in right in front of us and killed one of the caterpillars. I started throwing sticks at the wasp, but missed. Once the caterpillar was dead, I killed the wasp. I think my son thought I was overreacting a bit! I hate wasps! It is amazing that we have any butterflies with all the problems they deal with. I read that there is a 90% mortality rate in most species! I guess it is a dog eat dog world, or a wasp eat caterpillar one. I saw more adult swallowtails today around the parsley and fennel so I will be on the lookout for caterpillars and wasps!
The hotter it gets, the harder it is to spend much time in the garden. I try to get outside as early as possible, because the weeds are not stopping, and the grass still needs mowing. Work smart, drink lots of water and don’t forget to water your plants!
Taken from https://www.arkansasonline.com/news/2020/jul/19/gardening-tougher-when-it-hot-and-humid/
Again till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

image from themorningcall 

      ​     I just got the order form for getting garlic to sell this fall.  Then this article come up on how to plant it.  Yes fall is coming believe it or not.  I am also going to order tulip and daffodil bulbs plus some of the more to hard to find fall planting bulbs for spring blooms.  They are coming from Denmark and Holland thru the broker I get them.  They will be here in September, which isn’t too far away.  I will keep you posted on that.
GROWING GARLIC
PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING GARLIC
By The Editors  Growing Garlic (U.S.)
Garlic is an easy-to-grow crop that’s harvested in midsummer and planted in the fall. Harvest when the tops just begin to yellow and fall over! See all our tips on growing garlic.
Rather than risk getting subpar garlic from the grocery store, try growing your own! It’s an easy and rewarding crop to grow at home.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is also good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT GARLIC
Garlic is typically planted in the fall or early winter, though it may also be planted in the early spring in warmer climates.
We advise fall planting for most gardeners. Garlic roots develop during the fall and winter—before the ground freezes—and by early spring, they start producing foliage.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic about 2 weeks after your first fall frost date, but before the ground freezes. The timing may vary with local climate; the aim is to allow a long enough period before the ground freezes for the plant to develop good roots, but not enough time to for it to form top growth before freezing temperatures set in.
In cooler climates, planting is usually between September and November.
In warm areas with mild winters, you have the option to plant garlic in the fall or in late winter/early spring—usually February or March.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE
Select a sunny spot.
Garlic likes fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. If your soil is on the thin, sandy side, add healthy additions of compost, plus aged manure or 5-10-10 fertilizer. (Don’t use fresh, unprocessed animal manure, as it can transfer diseases.)
For an easy and large harvest, garlic grower Robin Jarry of Hope, Maine, suggests using heavily mulched raised beds, especially in heavy soil. “I plant in raised beds for good drainage, and then mulch with about six inches of old hay after the ground freezes. I never water my garlic—I like low-maintenance vegetables!” Raised beds should be two to three feet wide and at least 10 to 12 inches tall.
Lime the soil if you haven’t done so recently. Before planting cloves, work a couple tablespoons of 5-10-10 complete fertilizer, bone meal or fish meal into the soil several inches below where the base of the garlic will rest.
HOW TO PLANT GARLIC
Get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Do not use cloves from the grocery store for planting. They may be unsuitable varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow.
Select large, healthy cloves, free of disease. The larger the clove, the bigger and healthier the bulb you will get the following summer.
Break apart cloves from the bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Place cloves 2 to 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
Plant in rows spaced 10 to 14 inches apart.
See how we plant garlic in the fall.
HOW TO GROW GARLIC
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw to ensure proper overwintering. Read our mulching guide for more info!
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F / -6°C on their own. Keep them under cover.)
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Fertilize garlic in the early spring by side dressing with a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer such as blood meal, chicken manure, or a store-bought pelleted fertilizer.
Fertilize again just before the bulbs begin to swell in response to lengthening daylight (usually early May in most regions).
Weeds should not be a problem until spring. However, keep the planting site well weeded. Garlic doesn’t do well with competition—it needs all available nutrients!
Garlic is a heavy feeder which requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize more if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June). If May and June are very dry, irrigate to a depth of two feet every eight to 10 days. As mid-June approaches, taper off watering.
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
HOW TO HARVEST GARLIC
Harvest from fall plantings will range from late June to August. In Southern climates, it will depend on your planting date. The clue is to look for yellowing foliage. Harvest when the tops just begin to yellow and fall over, but before they are completely dry.
Before digging up your whole crop, it’s time for a sample! Lift a bulb to see if the crop is ready. We often dig up a bulb before the tops are completely yellow (in late June or early July) as some garlic types will be ready earlier. The garlic head will be divided into plump cloves and the skin covering the outside of the bulbs will be thick, dry and papery.
If pulled too early, the bulb wrapping will be thin and disintegrate.
If left in the ground too long, the bulbs sometimes split apart. The skin may also split, which exposes the bulbs to disease and will affect their longevity in storage.
To harvest, carefully dig (don’t pull!) up the bulbs with a spade or garden fork. Lift the plants, carefully brush off the soil, and let them cure in an airy, shady, dry spot for two weeks. We hang them upside down on a string in bunches of 4 to 6. Make sure all sides get good air circulation. Be careful not to bruise the garlic or it won’t store well.
HOW TO STORE GARLIC
The bulbs are cured and ready to store when the wrappers are dry and papery and the roots are dry. The root crown should be hard, and the cloves can be cracked apart easily.
Once the garlic bulbs are dry, you can store them. Remove any dirt and trim off any roots or leaves. Keep the wrappers on—but remove the dirtiest wrappers. Remove the tops and roots.
Bulbs should be stored in a cool (40°F / 4°C), dark, dry place, and can be kept in the same way for several months. Don’t store in your basement if it’s moist! Do not store garlic in the refrigerator, either.
The flavor will increase as the bulbs are dried. Properly stored, garlic should last until the next crop is harvested the following summer.
If you plan on planting garlic again next season, save some of your largest, best-formed bulbs to plant again in the fall.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
What type of garlic should you plant? There are three types of garlic: Softneck, Hardneck, and Great-headed (Elephant). Most types are about 90 days to harvest, once growth starts.
Hardneck varieties grow one ring of cloves around a stem, there is not a layer of cloves as there is in softneck varieties. They are extremely cold hardy, but do not store as well or long as other varieties. Flavor is milder than softnecks. Common hardneck types include ‘Korean Red’, ‘Duganski’, ‘Siberian’, ‘Music’, ‘Chesnok Red’, ‘German Red’ and ‘Spanish Roja’. These varieties produce tiny bulblets at the end of a tall flowering stalk in addition to a fat underground bulb of cloves.
Softneck varieties, like their name suggests, have necks that stay soft after harvest, and therefore are the types that you see braided. Especially recommended for those in warmer climes, as it is less winter-hardy than other types. Strong, intense flavor. They tend to grow bigger bulbs because energy is not being diverted to top-set bulblets like hardnecks. Softneck varieties include ‘Silverskin’, ‘Inchelium Red’, ‘California Early’ and ‘California Late’.
Great-headed (Elephant) garlic is not recommended if you’re looking for a garlic taste. It’s less hardy, and more closely related to leeks than other varieties. The flavor is more like onion than traditional garlic. Bulbs and cloves are large, with about 4 cloves to a bulb.
WIT & WISDOM
Rub raw garlic on an insect bite to relieve the sting or itch. Find out more uses for raw garlic and more about garlic’s long history of healing.
A nickel will get you on the subway, but garlic will get you a seat.
–Yiddish proverb
You can also harvest just the green scapes of hardneck garlic varieties. Harvest when the scape begin to curl (often around mid-June). This doesn’t hurt the bulb; in fact, the plant can put more energy into bulb formation. Use the scapes in cooking the same way you would garlic bulbs. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick! Note that they get more fibrous and less edible as they mature.
Learn how to make your own garlic powder to easily spice up a recipe.
Roasted garlic bulbs are also a favorite of ours!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/garlic
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

image from the morning call

      ​     I just got the order form for getting garlic to sell this fall.  Then this article come up on how to plant it.  Yes fall is coming believe it or not.  I am also going to order tulip and daffodil bulbs plus some of the more to hard to find fall planting bulbs for spring blooms.  They are coming from Denmark and Holland thru the broker I get them.  They will be here in September, which isn’t too far away.  I will keep you posted on that.
GROWING GARLIC
PLANTING, GROWING, AND HARVESTING GARLIC
By The Editors  Growing Garlic (U.S.)
Garlic is an easy-to-grow crop that’s harvested in midsummer and planted in the fall. Harvest when the tops just begin to yellow and fall over! See all our tips on growing garlic.
Rather than risk getting subpar garlic from the grocery store, try growing your own! It’s an easy and rewarding crop to grow at home.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is also good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
WHEN TO PLANT GARLIC
Garlic is typically planted in the fall or early winter, though it may also be planted in the early spring in warmer climates.
We advise fall planting for most gardeners. Garlic roots develop during the fall and winter—before the ground freezes—and by early spring, they start producing foliage.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic about 2 weeks after your first fall frost date, but before the ground freezes. The timing may vary with local climate; the aim is to allow a long enough period before the ground freezes for the plant to develop good roots, but not enough time to for it to form top growth before freezing temperatures set in.
In cooler climates, planting is usually between September and November.
In warm areas with mild winters, you have the option to plant garlic in the fall or in late winter/early spring—usually February or March.
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE
Select a sunny spot.
Garlic likes fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. If your soil is on the thin, sandy side, add healthy additions of compost, plus aged manure or 5-10-10 fertilizer. (Don’t use fresh, unprocessed animal manure, as it can transfer diseases.)
For an easy and large harvest, garlic grower Robin Jarry of Hope, Maine, suggests using heavily mulched raised beds, especially in heavy soil. “I plant in raised beds for good drainage, and then mulch with about six inches of old hay after the ground freezes. I never water my garlic—I like low-maintenance vegetables!” Raised beds should be two to three feet wide and at least 10 to 12 inches tall.
Lime the soil if you haven’t done so recently. Before planting cloves, work a couple tablespoons of 5-10-10 complete fertilizer, bone meal or fish meal into the soil several inches below where the base of the garlic will rest.
HOW TO PLANT GARLIC
Get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Do not use cloves from the grocery store for planting. They may be unsuitable varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow.
Select large, healthy cloves, free of disease. The larger the clove, the bigger and healthier the bulb you will get the following summer.
Break apart cloves from the bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Place cloves 2 to 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
Plant in rows spaced 10 to 14 inches apart.
See how we plant garlic in the fall.
HOW TO GROW GARLIC
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw to ensure proper overwintering. Read our mulching guide for more info!
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F / -6°C on their own. Keep them under cover.)
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Fertilize garlic in the early spring by side dressing with a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer such as blood meal, chicken manure, or a store-bought pelleted fertilizer.
Fertilize again just before the bulbs begin to swell in response to lengthening daylight (usually early May in most regions).
Weeds should not be a problem until spring. However, keep the planting site well weeded. Garlic doesn’t do well with competition—it needs all available nutrients!
Garlic is a heavy feeder which requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize more if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June). If May and June are very dry, irrigate to a depth of two feet every eight to 10 days. As mid-June approaches, taper off watering.
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
HOW TO HARVEST GARLIC
Harvest from fall plantings will range from late June to August. In Southern climates, it will depend on your planting date. The clue is to look for yellowing foliage. Harvest when the tops just begin to yellow and fall over, but before they are completely dry.
Before digging up your whole crop, it’s time for a sample! Lift a bulb to see if the crop is ready. We often dig up a bulb before the tops are completely yellow (in late June or early July) as some garlic types will be ready earlier. The garlic head will be divided into plump cloves and the skin covering the outside of the bulbs will be thick, dry and papery.
If pulled too early, the bulb wrapping will be thin and disintegrate.
If left in the ground too long, the bulbs sometimes split apart. The skin may also split, which exposes the bulbs to disease and will affect their longevity in storage.
To harvest, carefully dig (don’t pull!) up the bulbs with a spade or garden fork. Lift the plants, carefully brush off the soil, and let them cure in an airy, shady, dry spot for two weeks. We hang them upside down on a string in bunches of 4 to 6. Make sure all sides get good air circulation. Be careful not to bruise the garlic or it won’t store well.
HOW TO STORE GARLIC
The bulbs are cured and ready to store when the wrappers are dry and papery and the roots are dry. The root crown should be hard, and the cloves can be cracked apart easily.
Once the garlic bulbs are dry, you can store them. Remove any dirt and trim off any roots or leaves. Keep the wrappers on—but remove the dirtiest wrappers. Remove the tops and roots.
Bulbs should be stored in a cool (40°F / 4°C), dark, dry place, and can be kept in the same way for several months. Don’t store in your basement if it’s moist! Do not store garlic in the refrigerator, either.
The flavor will increase as the bulbs are dried. Properly stored, garlic should last until the next crop is harvested the following summer.
If you plan on planting garlic again next season, save some of your largest, best-formed bulbs to plant again in the fall.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
What type of garlic should you plant? There are three types of garlic: Softneck, Hardneck, and Great-headed (Elephant). Most types are about 90 days to harvest, once growth starts.
Hardneck varieties grow one ring of cloves around a stem, there is not a layer of cloves as there is in softneck varieties. They are extremely cold hardy, but do not store as well or long as other varieties. Flavor is milder than softnecks. Common hardneck types include ‘Korean Red’, ‘Duganski’, ‘Siberian’, ‘Music’, ‘Chesnok Red’, ‘German Red’ and ‘Spanish Roja’. These varieties produce tiny bulblets at the end of a tall flowering stalk in addition to a fat underground bulb of cloves.
Softneck varieties, like their name suggests, have necks that stay soft after harvest, and therefore are the types that you see braided. Especially recommended for those in warmer climes, as it is less winter-hardy than other types. Strong, intense flavor. They tend to grow bigger bulbs because energy is not being diverted to top-set bulblets like hardnecks. Softneck varieties include ‘Silverskin’, ‘Inchelium Red’, ‘California Early’ and ‘California Late’.
Great-headed (Elephant) garlic is not recommended if you’re looking for a garlic taste. It’s less hardy, and more closely related to leeks than other varieties. The flavor is more like onion than traditional garlic. Bulbs and cloves are large, with about 4 cloves to a bulb.
WIT & WISDOM
Rub raw garlic on an insect bite to relieve the sting or itch. Find out more uses for raw garlic and more about garlic’s long history of healing.
A nickel will get you on the subway, but garlic will get you a seat.
–Yiddish proverb
You can also harvest just the green scapes of hardneck garlic varieties. Harvest when the scape begin to curl (often around mid-June). This doesn’t hurt the bulb; in fact, the plant can put more energy into bulb formation. Use the scapes in cooking the same way you would garlic bulbs. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick! Note that they get more fibrous and less edible as they mature.
Learn how to make your own garlic powder to easily spice up a recipe.
Roasted garlic bulbs are also a favorite of ours!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/garlic
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337