Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs. 
 
Here is another love of mine.  SCIENCE and things around us.  Found this article about the Black Moon which we will see tonight.  Interesting and hope all of you find that too.
 
Much media hype surrounds Moon names, such as “Blood Moon” and “Blue Moon,” but have you ever heard of a “Black Moon”? This year, there’s a Black Moon on July 31. Here’s an explanation of this ominous-sounding name.
 
What is a Black Moon?
Like “Blood Moon” and “Blue Moon,” “Black Moon” is not an astronomical term. In fact, if you ask a sample of astronomers, both professional and amateur, very few will have even heard of it. It’s not even a particularly widely known folklore thing.
 
As for its definition, some people say it’s a “Black Moon” if:
•There is a new Moon twice in the same month. It’s similar to the Blue Moon, which has become a common term for the second full Moon in a month. This is the definition of Black Moon that’s used most often.
•There are NO new Moons in a month. This could only happen in February, and thus is kind of rare, meaning once every 5 to 10 years.
•The phrase might also simply refer to every new Moon, since we’re then seeing the Moon’s dark or black side.
•The phrase is also sometimes applied to mean the third new Moon when there are four in a season, which is actually one of the definitions of a “blue Moon” when the same thing happens to a full Moon.
 
There is no astronomical significance to a Black Moon. Nothing happens, except the usual new Moon absence of any Moon in the sky, plus the stronger so-called “spring” tides we get for a few days around every full Moon and new Moon.
 
When is the Next Black Moon?
 If you’re willing to use any of the definitions above, you’ll get a Black Moon at least once a year, and sometimes twice. However, if we go by the standard “two new Moons in one month” definition, Black Moons become slightly more rare, occurring about every 32 months (two to three years).
 
In North America, the next Black Moon will occur on July 31, 2019, at 11:12 P.M. ET (August 1, 2019, at 3:12 UTC). This new Moon is the second of two July 2019 new Moons. (Or, in some time zones, it’s the first of two August 2019 new Moons.
 
Yes, it’s all about scheduling, folks!
 
What Will You See During a Black Moon?
 Uh, not much. Like all new moons, it’ll cross the sky with the Sun during the day.  Humans can’t see the new Moon in the Sun’s glare.
 
During the new Moon phase, the Moon is not illuminated by the Sun and seems to disappear from the night sky. A new Moon is practically invisible to the naked eye, so there’s nothing to see during a so-called Black Moon.
 
Remember, there are four quarters of the Moon—the Moon phases. There’s usually a new moon and a full Moon about once a month, because the Moon takes about a month to orbit Earth.
•You all know the “full Moon,” when the entire disk of the Moon is illuminated by the Sun (because they are on opposite sides of the sky).
•In contrast, the “new Moon” has its dark side facing us. It’s not reflecting any of the Sun’s light because the Moon is lined up between the Earth and Sun. 
July 31 New Supermoon
This July, the new Moon is also a “supermoon” (i.e, the Moon is closest to Earth during its orbit during the new Moon phase.)
With a new supermoon, the tides will be extra large.
Specifically, the  high tides are a little higher and low tides are a little lower than average. This is due to gravitational pulls that causes the oceans to bulge a bit more than usual, and called spring tides.
 
Stars Look Brighter
Although there’s not much to see when a Black Moon rises, the good news is that a moonless sky is excellent for stargazing (since the Moon’s light won’t drown out the stars). Check out our monthly star charts to know what to look for this month.
 
A day or two after the new Moon, you’ll see the slim crescent Moon in the west after sunset. By August 6, you’ll see the Moon in the night sky again.
 
What do you think about the Black Moon now? Should it carry any significance? Let us know in the comments! Happy stargazing!
 
 Welcome to “This Week’s Amazing Sky,” the Almanac’s hub for everything stargazing and astronomy. Bob Berman, longtime and famous astronomer for The Old Farmer’s Almanac, will help bring alive the wonders of our universe. From the beautiful stars and planets to magical auroras and eclipses, he covers everything under the Sun (and Moon)! Bob, the world’s mostly widely read astronomer, also has a new weekly podcast, Astounding Universe!
My grandfather always call the New Moon "The Black Moon". Also, I would like to add my grandfathers other moon comment. When the moon looked like it was holding water, was not a good time to go fishing. When the moon looked like it was dumping water, was the best to go fishing. Last but not least, three days before and after a New Moon, or Full Moon were also good times to go fishing. Thanks for your time. Lee........
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/astronomy/astronomy
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

 picture from fancyfragalife.com

     Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs. 
 
How to Prune Different Kinds of Hydrangeas Timing is everything
 By Marie Iannotti
 
Hydrangeas make beautiful focal points in the garden, and they generally require minimal care other than pruning. Although many hydrangeas have interesting foliage and bark, most are grown for their large, showy blossoms. If hydrangeas don’t bloom for a season, it is usually due to one of three reasons: It did not get enough sun, an early frost or cold spell killed the flowers buds, or it was pruned at the wrong time. Proper timing for pruning is the key to keeping hydrangeas flowering in a way that fulfills their promise, but how and when you prune them depends on which type you have. Many modern hydrangeas have been bred to solve the pruning problem by producing ongoing flower buds on both old wood grown the previous season and new growth produced in the current growing season, but for older types, it's critical to perform pruning duties at the right time.
 
When to Prune Hydrangeas 
 
When to Prune Different Type of Hydrangeas
Category Blooms on Old or New Wood? Timing for Pruning
Bigleaf (Mophead) Hydrangea Old Immediately after flowers fade
Smooth Hydrangea New Late winter or early spring, before new growth starts
Peegee (Panicle) Hydrangea New Light pruning in late winter or early spring
Oak Leaf Hydrangea Old Summer, after flowers fade
Tea-of-Heaven Hydrangea Old Immediately after flowering
Climbing Hydrangea Old Winter or early spring, only when necessary to control size
 
Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
The popular bigleaf hydrangea, also known as mophead or florist's hydrangea, is sometimes easy to recognize because it is the one whose flower color changes with the soil pH: blue in acid soil, pink in alkaline soil. There are also a few varieties that simply stay white, making it much harder to categorize the species from the appearance of the flowers. The leaves of H. macrophylla are coarsely serrated and glossy, dark green. This group also includes the lacecap hydrangeas, whose flowers look like a circle of unopened buds surrounded by open petals. The unopened buds are actually the fertile flowers with pollen, while the flashy outer petals are sterile and are there only to attract bees. This is true of most hydrangeas, so don’t become frustrated waiting for all the buds to open.
 
Bigleaf hydrangeas set their flower buds at the ends of the upright or lateral branches, from late summer to early fall. Pruning bigleaf hydrangea in the spring or even late fall, after the buds have been set, will remove the flower buds and any chance of getting flowers that season. Instead, bigleaf hydrangea should be pruned as soon as the flowers have faded.
 
Spent flowers can be trimmed away as they begin to fade to keep the plant looking tidy. When most of the flowers have faded, examine the plant for the new growth coming in from the base of the plant. Selectively prune out the dead and weaker stems, both old and new, using bypass pruners. Don’t prune out all the old wood, since this is what will keep flowering as the new growth matures. This kind of annual pruning will keep the shrub vigorous.
 
Tip
Bigleaf hydrangeas are the variety most susceptible to winter bud injury. If you live in an area with severe winters or your plant is exposed to winter winds, you might need to offer it some winter protection, to protect the flower buds. Tying the branches together and wrapping them with burlap isn’t pretty, but it can help the plants survive winter. Remove the burlap when the buds begin to swell.
 
Smooth Hydrangea (H. arborescens)
Smooth hydrangea, including the popular cultivar H. arborescens 'Grandiflora,' doesn't usually have any problems blooming, although the white flowers are not as showy as we normally expect from hydrangeas. This is a round shrub with leaves that are somewhat rounded with a pointed end, paler on the under surface than on the top. Hills-of-Snow does not usually have trouble blooming because its flowers are set only on new growth. This is a good thing because it is very susceptible to winter injury and is often killed back to the ground in colder regions. If winter injury is not that bad, you can prune slightly by removing some branches to the ground and cutting others back to shape the plant.
 
This shrub blooms on new, current-season wood. Pruning should be done in early spring to ensure plenty of new wood for flowers.
 
'Annabelle' is another very popular Hydrangea arborescens cultivar with conical flower heads that are considerably larger than 'Grandiflora.' Its leaves are fuzzy gray on the lower surface.
 
Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
It's probably not surprising that oakleaf hydrangea is easily recognized by its oakleaf-shaped foliage. Since its major attraction is the foliage, loss of bloom is less disappointing than in other varieties. Oakleaf hydrangea also blooms on old growth and should be pruned immediately it has finished flowering. If it has experienced winter dieback, prune the stems back to below the point of injury.
 
Peegee Hydrangea (H. paniculata "Grandiflora")
This is the most commonly grown hydrangea variety. Also known as panicle hydrangeas, peegees have massive snowball-shaped flower clusters in mid- to late-summer. The flowers start out white and slowly turn pink, drying and remaining on the plant long after the leaves have fallen. These are also the varieties you see trained into standards that look like small trees.
 
Peegees do not require hard pruning to the ground. New flower buds will be set on new spring growth. Some gentle pruning of individual stems in late winter or early spring will not only keep the plants from becoming overgrown but will also encourage more new growth and hopefully more flower buds.
 
During the growing season, you can deadhead the flowers and clean up the overall shape of the plant as soon as the flowers become unattractive.
 
Mountain Hydrangea (H. serrata)
Mountain hydrangea, also known as tea of heaven, is a small shrub with narrow, pointed leaves and flattened flower heads. It is sometimes confused with Hydrangea macrophylla because the flowers can look like lacecaps and/or be blue or pink, but this type does not have the big leaves of H. macrophylla. Bloom occurs on old wood, and pruning needs are minimal. Prune after flowering, trimming back flowering stems to a pair of healthy buds. In early spring, prune out weak or damaged stems to ground level.
 
The stunning climbing hydrangea is the type you see slowly making its way up a tree or support. It is a vine, not a shrub, and it requires little to no pruning. Once climbing hydrangeas become established, they can grow quite vigorously and may need occasional late winter pruning to set boundaries for the coming season. Badly neglected, overgrown vines can be cut back to the ground level in early spring to rejuvenate the plant. This plant flowers on old wood grown the previous season.
 
 Tips for Pruning Hydrangeas 
 
■ Always remove dead or damaged stems as the first step during routine pruning.
■ When shortening stems, cut back to just above a pair of healthy buds
■ Winter damaged stems can routinely be cut back to living wood; the shrubs rarely die.
■ In general, varieties that bloom on old wood should be pruned immediately after they flower; those that bloom on new wood should be pruned before new growth begins in spring.
  taken from https://www.thespruce.com/when-to-prune-hydrangeas-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

picture from worldofsucculants.com

       ​    I am back from the one day of the Herb Fest in Greene.  Good day, and thanks to all that stopped.  I had our 2 awnings so I was in the shade and so was the gardeners.  Now I need to unload the trailer and I am putting back into the greenhouse.  So lots of succulents sold and here is about one of them.  SEDUM....
 
Sedum is a perennial plant with thick, succulent leaves, fleshy stems, and clusters of star-shaped flowers. Here’s how to grow sedum in your garden!
 There are many, many different varieties and species of sedum—also called “stonecrop”—which makes them suitable for use in almost any garden design. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and beloved by pollinators!
 
We like to divide sedum into two main categories based on the plants’ growth habit: low-growing sedum and upright sedum.
•Low–growing sedum spreads along the ground, reaching only a few inches (or less) in height. This makes them perfect for use as a ground cover along paths, in rock gardens, or cascading down a stone wall.
•Upright sedum tends to form tall, upright clumps that produce a tight mass of tiny flowers. Their height and attractive flowers make them good candidates for border gardens.
 
When to Plant Sedum
•Sedum is usually bought in plugs or pots and transplanted into the garden. The best time to plant sedum is in the spring—after the threat of frost but before the heat of summer kicks in.
•Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
 
Sedum with yellow flowers
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
•Low-growing and vigorous species will tolerate partial shade, but most sedum do best in full sun. ◦If growing sedum in an area that gets long, cold winters (Zone 5 and colder), plant in full sun to improve overwintering.
•Sedum requires well-draining soil; it is susceptible to rot due to too much moisture.
 
How to Plant Sedum
•Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety.
•You can also plant divisions or cuttings: ◦For divisions: Dig a hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface, then place the plant in the hole and fill it in.
◦For cuttings: Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
 
Care
How to Grow Sedum
•Once established, sedum plants require little care. Check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water when needed.
•After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area.
•Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
 
Pests/Diseases
•Mealybugs
•Scale insects
•Slugs
•Snails
•Birds may eat the succulent foliage of sedum.
•Sedum humifusum makes for a great ground cover and has beautiful, bright yellow flowers
•‘Brilliant’ and ‘Autumn Joy’ upright sedum (Hylotelephium spectabile, formerly Sedum spectabile) add bursts of bright pink and magenta to your garden
•‘Blue Spruce’ (Sedum reflexum) is a low-growing sedum with blue-green, spruce-like foliage and yellow flowers
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/sedum
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from pinterest

     ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
Ok I know another herb posting....I promise the next one will be something different .  Remember Herb Festival in Greene at 10-4 at the city park.  Stop and see me.  THANKS, and please share. 
 
Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub with blue flowers. It is an aromatic and distinctive herb with a sweet, resinous flavor. Here’s how to grow your own rosemary plants!
 
Rosemary is ideal for a rock garden or the top of a dry stone wall. In warm areas with fair humidity, rosemary can grow into a shrub several feet in height. In fact, rosemary grows so vigorously in ideal conditions that it can become a bit of a burden, if not managed properly!
 
This herb can be grown outdoors as a perennial shrub in Zones 7 and warmer. In colder areas, it should be kept in a pot and brought indoors for the winter.
Rosemary is often used for seasoning poultry, lamb, stews, and soups.
 
Planting
When to Plant Rosemary
•For a head start, plant the seeds or cuttings indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.) Seeds can take a long time to germinate, so don’t give up right away!
 
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
•Plant in full sun.
•The planting site should have well-draining soil. Rosemary won’t tolerate being consistently wet.
•Be sure to give your plants enough room to grow. Rosemary can grow to about 4 feet tall and spreads about 4 feet as well.
•In the garden, plant near beans, cabbage, carrots, and sage. Learn more about companion planting with herbs.
 
How to Plant Rosemary
•Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil. For best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF (21°C).
 
Care
How to Grow Rosemary
•Water the plants evenly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to overwater.
•Prune regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky.
•For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot. Be sure to put it in bright light and protect it from cold drafts.
•After the rosemary flowers, remember to trim the plant.
•Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season if it won’t survive winter in your area.
 
Pests/Diseases
•Aerial blight
•Bacterial leaf spots
•Several types of root rot
 
Harvest/Storage
How to Harvest Rosemary
•Snip off stems to use fresh, or hang them in the kitchen for dried rosemary.
•During the winter, bring potted rosemary plants inside. Learn how to overwinter rosemary indoors.
•Harvest young stems and leaves for the freshest taste.
•Harvest up to a third of the rosemary at any one time, allowing the plant to replace its growth before taking more.
 
How to Store Rosemary
•Air-dry sprigs of rosemary and store in an airtight container in the cupboard.
 
Wit & Wisdom
Rosemary tea is said to enhance one’s memory. Alternatively, wear a sprig of rosemary in your hair to improve your memory.
•In the language of flowers, rosemary symbolizes remembrance.
•A sprig of lavender or rosemary under your ironing board cover will release its fragrance with the heat.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/rosemary
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from pioneerwoman.com 

Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
I know you are wondering why all the writings on herbs....but Herb Festival in Greene Sunday 28th in Greene at the city park.  10-4   I will be there so stop and see me. 
 
How to Store Fresh Herbs So They Last Longest
 
Never Waste a Bunch Again
 
 By Danilo Alfaro  A former chef, Danilo Alfaro has published more than 800 recipes and tutorials that make complicated culinary techniques approachable to home cooks.
  
 The Spruce
 Fresh herbs are one of those tricky ingredients to buy since the standard quantity they sell at the supermarket is almost always far more than you need for any given recipe. What's worse, they also go bad quickly in the fridge, so anytime you buy fresh herbs, there's a good chance you're going to end up throwing at least some of it away.
 
Even a single day in the fridge can cause fresh herbs to turn limp, wilted, discolored, even slimy.
 
You can certainly grow your own herbs and simply snip off what you need, but short of that, the best way to avoid waste is to store your fresh herbs properly so that they last as long as possible.
 
To do this, we need to divide fresh herbs into two broad categories and look into the optimal storage method that suits each type.
 
Are They Soft Herbs or Hard Herbs? 
We distinguish the two types by their texture. Leafy versus woody is one way you could describe it, but to make it simpler, we'll just say soft and hard. Rosemary is an example of a "hard" herb, whereas parsley we'll classified as "soft." You can decide for yourself by looking at the stems. A green, tender stem puts it in the "soft" category, while a brown, woody or thick one makes it "hard."
 
Soft herbs:
■ Parsley
■ Cilantro
■ Dill
■ Mint
■ Tarragon
■ Chervil
■ Basil (see note below)
 
Hard herbs:
■ Rosemary
■ Thyme
■ Sage
■ Savory
■ Chives
 
We've classified chives as "hard" even though they don't actually have stems. The entire herb is the green shoot itself, but the best way to store fresh chives is using the hard method.
 
 The Best Way to Wash Fresh Herbs 
It's generally recommended to wash your produce, fresh herbs included. It's good for food safety purposes, especially if your herbs won't be cooked, like in a salad, a dressing, or as a garnish. Fresh herbs don't carry illness-causing bacteria, but they can become tainted via cross-contamination.
 
In any case, you certainly don't want dirt, insect parts or other physical contaminants in your herbs, so a quick rinse is a good idea.
 
But rather holding your fresh herbs under the tap, which can damage leaves and break off delicate stems, fill a large bowl (or the sink) with cool water, dunk your herbs in and gently swish them around.
 
 The Best Way to Dry Fresh Herbs 
Which brings us to drying your herbs — this step is important since there storing wet, dripping herbs in your refrigerator is not a way to keep them fresh.
 
Herbs are at least somewhat similar to lettuce, so you might be tempted to dry them in a salad spinner. Unfortunately, a salad spinner can bruise and break them, even the hardy ones. And because the leaves are so small, they can fall through the openings in the salad spinner basket.
Instead, lay out some paper towels on your counter. Lift the wet herbs from the water, allowing excess water to drip off, then lay them on the towel. Cover with a second towel and gently pat the herbs dry.
You won't get them 100 percent dry, but that's exactly what you want. Your fresh herbs should be slightly damp, but not still soaking wet.
 
 How to Store Fresh Herbs 
And now we come to the two storage methods, one for soft herbs and one for hard ones.
 
For soft herbs, ystore them standing up in jars of water in the fridge. An ordinary glass jar will do, although you might want to split a bunch of herbs across two jars to avoid crowding them.
 
Fill your jars about halfway with water. Gather up the herbs in a bunch and stand them stems-down in the jar. If the stems are very soft, the herbs might droop a bit rather than standing straight up, which is fine, as long as the ends of the stems are in the water. Next, grab a plastic produce bag and cover the whole top of the jar so that the herbs are completely enclosed. Secure the bag with a rubber band and transfer the jar to the fridge where your herbs will keep for two to three weeks.
Note that basil is too delicate for the fridge, so store it in the jar as described, but keep it on the counter (but out of direct sunlight).
 
For hard herbs, it's even easier. That's because the best way to store hard herbs is rolled-up in a damp paper towel inside a resealable plastic bag in the fridge. And since they're already on a damp paper towel, all you have to do is gently roll them up. If the paper towels are saturated, either squeeze out the excess or use new ones. But if you use new ones, spritz them with water to dampen them first, as dry paper towels won't work as well.
 
Now place the rolled-up herbs in the bag and, without sealing it, transfer it to the fridge. Stored this way, your hard herbs will last two to three weeks. Note that you can store more than one roll in a gallon-sized bag.
 
 To Seal or Keep Open 
The air in the refrigerator is quite dry, which is why it comes equipped with crisper drawers, whose purpose is to create a small humid storage area within the fridge. As the moisture from fresh vegetables evaporates, it remains in the drawer, slowing the rate at which those veggies dry out.
 
And while some air circulation is good for fresh herbs, in practice it is difficult to achieve this without them drying out. Which is why loosely covering the jars is the best way to store tender herbs, while wrapping in damp paper towels and storing them in plastic bags, but not sealing the bags, is the best method for hardy herbs.
 
taken from https://www.thespruceeats.com/best-way-to-store-fresh-herbs-last-longer-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from classroomclip.com

      ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
July 28th Herb Fest is Greene Iowa from 10-4.   Located in the city park.  Food, crafts, plants, herbs, garden art to name a few.  Come to the annual Herb Festival in Greene Iowa Sunday July 28th I will be there with succulents and I mean lots of them.  Air plants, herbs, some vegetables you can plant now for the fall, and did I say succulents. We started off the season with over 1000 pots so I will bring them in prices starting at  $1.00.  I will be closest to the river where I usually sit.  Look for the red Snap On Tool awnings.  See you in Greene. 
    So thought I would share an article about herbs to grow in the sun.  I have these, not all of them now, but have had this spring.  What do you grow as herbs? 
 
9 Best Herbs That Grow in Full Sun   By Jamie McIntosh  Jamie has written about gardening and special occasion flowers since 2011. She has years of experience in caring for flowers and plants.
Basil
Ocimum basilicum is one of the easiest, and most versatile herbs you can grow in the sunny garden. You can grow 'Genovese' for Italian dishes and pesto, 'Sweet Thai' for Asian dishes, or one of the gorgeous purple types like 'Amethyst Improved' for the ornamental herb garden. Although basil plants like full sun, they don't tolerate dry conditions, so employ a mulch cover to help retain soil moisture. Harvest the tops of basil plants regularly to keep it from bolting, which slows down growth.
 
Caraway
 Carum carvi is grown for its seeds to use in bread recipes or in sausage, but while you're waiting for the plant to mature you will appreciate the beneficial insects it attracts to the garden with its flowers. Caraway occupies a special place in the garden as a biennial: it produces foliage the first year, and flowers and seeds in the second growing season. Therefore, you must plan ahead if you want to harvest caraway seeds for the kitchen: It takes about a year and two months from first sowing to seed harvest. Grow in a sunny, weed-free site in well-drained, rich soil. Plants grow about three feet tall.
 
Cilantro
Also grown for coriander seeds, Coriandrum Sativum grows very quickly, and has a tendency to bolt as soon as the weather gets hot. However, the flowers do attract beneficial insects, and are edible as well. Cilantro needs plenty of moisture and rich soil. Sow seed every couple of weeks to maintain a steady supply of leaves for Mexican dishes.
 
Anethum graveolens doesn't just taste good in fish and vegetable dishes; its tall, ferny foliage is a beautiful textural accent in the sunny flower, herb, or vegetable garden. Pretty yellow flower umbels are soon followed by seeds, which also have culinary value. Grow in loamy soil and provide average moisture.
 
Lavender
 Lavandula angustifolia is treasured both for potpourri and crafts as well as for tea and as an herbal treatment for headaches. This Mediterranean plant demands full sun and excellent drainage, and doesn't need much water once it's established. Plants are hardy perennials in zones 5-8. Both the leaves and the flowers carry the wonderful fragrance.
 
Lemongrass
No amount of sun is too much for the warmth and sunshine-loving Cymbopogon citratus plant. Look for the West Indian variety for best flavor, and don't plant outdoors until night time temperatures are above 60 degrees F. The jungle natives love high humidity, rich soil, and abundant moisture. A nitrogen fertilizer will keep the grassy plants lush.
 
Rosemary Plants
Rosmarinus officinalis delights the senses with its pine-like aroma. The plants thrive in dry, sunny climates, and will even tolerate sea spray in seaside gardens. Rosemary plants are reliably hardy to zone 6, and will produce delicate purple flowers in areas with a long growing season. Grow in well-drained, average soil, and water when soil surface is dry. Old rosemary plants can get woody, but will produce new tender growth after shearing back in spring.
 
Summer Savory
Those who favor the French seasoning of Herbes de Provence must include Satureja hortensis in the garden. When used alone, summer savory adds peppery flavor to bean dishes. Annual savory is quick to germinate and mature in warm weather. Sow seeds shallowly, as they need light to germinate. Plants like a sunny site with sandy soil amended with organic matter. Snip plants as desired for recipes, or dry entire plants when flowers begin to form.
 
Tarragon Plants
  Chicken salad just isn't the same without a good sprinkling of Artemesia dracunculus. The delicate leaves impart a light anise-like flavor to egg dishes as well. Unlike many herbs, tarragon plants prefer a slightly alkaline soil pH; test your soil and adjust as necessary to achieve a level between 7.4-7.8. Good drainage is also important to ensure that these plants come back after the winter, as they are hardy in USDA growing zones 4-7.  Give tarragon plants adequate spacing about 18 inches apart so they can reach their full height of two feet. When harvesting tarragon in the first year, take care to snip no more than one-third of the plant for use at the table. Tarragon plant roots need energy provided from the foliage to become well-established as perennials.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/best-herbs-that-grow-in-full-sun-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​July 28th Herb Fest is Greene Iowa from 10-4.   Located in the city park.  Food, crafts, plants, herbs, garden art to name a few.  Come to the annual Herb Festival in Greene Iowa Sunday July 28th I will be there with succulents and I mean lots of them.  Air plants, herbs, some vegetables you can plant now for the fall, and did I say succulents. We started off the season with over 1000 pots so I will bring them in prices starting at  $1.00.  I will be closest to the river where I usually sit.  Look for the red Snap On Tool awnings.  See you in Greene. 
 
Question was asked when can I pull my onions?  Here is an explanation.   
Onion Harvest Time: Learn How And When To Harvest Onions
The use of onions for food goes back over 4,000 years. Onions are popular cool season vegetables that can be cultivated from seed [1], sets or transplants. Onions are an easy-to-grow and manage crop, that when properly harvested, can provide a kitchen staple through the fall and winter.
 
Success in Harvesting Onions
Your success in harvesting onions will depend on proper planting and care throughout the growing season. Plant onions as soon as the garden can be worked. Rich soil, consistent moisture and cool temperatures help bulb development. It’s best to create hills for onions that are to be used for green onions but do not hill those to be used for bulbs.
 
When to Harvest Onions
In addition to good planting, you need to know when to harvest onions for the best flavor. Harvest tops for green onions as soon as they reach 6 inches in height. The longer you wait to harvest the green tops, the stronger they become.
 
Any bulbs that have bolted ,or formed flower stalks, should be pulled and used right away; they are not good for storage.
 
Bulb onion harvest time can begin with onion tops naturally fall over and brown. This is usually 100 to 120 days after planting, depending on the cultivar. Onion harvest time should be early in the morning when temperatures are not too hot.
 
How to Harvest Onions
Knowing how to harvest onions is also important, as you don’t want to damage the plants or onion bulbs. Carefully pull or dig onions up from the ground with the tops intact. Gently shake the soil from around the bulbs.
 
Drying and Storing Onion Bulbs
Once harvested, storing onion bulbs  becomes necessary. Onions must first be dried before they can be stored. To dry onions, spread them out on a clean and dry surface in a well-ventilated location, such as a garage or a shed.
 
Onions should be cured for at least two to three weeks or until the tops necks are completely dry and the outer skin on the onion becomes slightly crisp. Cut tops off to within one inch after drying is complete.
 
Store dried onions in a wire basket, crate or nylon bag in a place where the temperature is between 32 to 40 F. (0-4 C.). Humidity levels should be between 65 and 70 percent for best results. If the location is too damp, rotting may occur. Most onions can keep for up to three months if dried and stored properly.
 
Taken from  Gardening Know How: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​     I am back to work.  Got all the plants, stuff, baskets and pots back from the fair.  LOVE this weather so working outside this morning will be very enjoyable.  The hot and humid weather did affect our crowds but Saturday and Sunday were good.  Thanks to all that stopped at our booth to visit, to buy, to ask questions or just to say hi.  Very enjoyable working with the gardeners just saying about Gardening and YOU....Here is one question I answered during the fair. Do Succulents Die After Blooming?   I am always learning about the scientific naming of the plants and why they are in that group.
 
Some do. Kinda, Sorta
  
Monocarpic Succulents
It’s so exciting to see your succulents bloom. Surely it is a sign of the plant’s health and vigor, right? But it never fails — someone comes along to whisper, in a horrified fashion, “Oh no — will it die now?” It’s a scary question, isn’t it? Do succulents die after blooming? The short answer is even scarier — yes, some do. But the long, in-depth and detailed answer (my favorite kind!) is this – not that many, and not really so much. What? There is a great deal of confusion over monocarpic succulents – with good reason, in my opinion. Let’s take a closer look at which succulents die after they bloom, and just how dead they actually die. After the discussion below, look for my list of monocarpic succulents by genus.
 
Monocarpic Plants
There are a fair number of plants that flower only once before they die. Sunflowers and tomatoes are good examples. Each must grow, flower and set seed-bearing fruit just once before the plant dies. In these examples, this life-cycle is completed within a single year. But there are many examples of long-lived plants that grow for years, or even decades, before they finally bloom, with the plant’s death soon to follow. Perhaps you have grown a cherished bromeliad, only to know heartbreak when it suddenly dies after producing a single, glorious bloom. Plants with this life-cycle are called “monocarpic”.
 
The term monocarpic comes from Greek, with mono meaning single, and karpos meaning fruit. A monocarpic plant is one with a single flowering period (as opposed to just one flower) before the plant dies. Plants with multiple flowering periods are called polycarpic. Plants flower in order to produce and release seeds, for their propagation. A monocarpic plant expends so much energy forming its flowers and seeds that it simply does not have the energy to continue to grow. With most monocarpic plants, this story ends in the death of the plant. Among monocarpic succulents – death is not really so final.
 
Do Succulents Die After Blooming?
So – do succulents die after blooming? Yes, some varieties do. But not that many, and not really that dead. If only it were like this for pets and beloved family members, right? Don’t fear growing and enjoying monocarpic succulents. They are beautiful and charming, and won’t leave you empty handed after they flower.
taken from https://thesucculenteclectic.com/do-succulents-die-after-they-bloom/
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

Threshing will be one of the farm shows that will go on today at Grandpa's Farm  during the Franklin Co Fair.  Stop down and have a look what they are working on at the farm.

     ​            Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
       So Wed.  was an interesting day.  We had a storm go thru around 10:00 AM and it was a strong cold front against the warm front.  So we had wind, rain and more wind. I sat in our booth area and a couple of times wonder why I decided to do that.  I made sure that the things on the tables were staying put.  The tent stayed in place and just had a few pots of plants on the ground. BUT the popcorn people were watching what I was doing.  EMT's were watching and the church ladies were making sure I was ok.  So no worries I was in good hands.  We had a couple of more rain showers so the crowd was really slow during the day.  Tonight is was a nice evening so the fair goers came out.  I worked on getting things organized, deadheaded and rearranged.  So this was good. 
     Unfortunately it is the weather the big thing this week.  Record breaking temperatures with high humidity.  BUT today Saturday it is to break, and start off at 70 degrees, get warmer then the cold front come thru around 2:00 and behind it will be lovely cooler weather.  The line that the cold and this warm front will meet is interstate 80 south of us so they will be getting lots of rain.  Tomorrow will be awesome with the temperature 70 all day long. 
     I have to thank all the ones that have been out to the Franklin Co Fair.  There is buildings with A/C, there is shade to sit in so the visit can be the best it can be with the weather we are having.  Stop in and say hi to me today or tomorrow and let me know  you read this blog.  See you at the FAIR....
 
Gardening advice from the Men's Garden club 1975
Epsom salts can help correct a magnesium deficiency in the soil, which is one of several reasons that can cause tomato blooms to drop.  Buy the course type found at drug stores.  Use about a  handful around plants, scratch not the surface.  Water after application. Some gardeners us Epsom salt in planting holes for tomatoes, peppers an eggplants, others mix a teaspoon with about a pint or so of Lukewarm water and spry it on foliage of pepper and other plants.  
 
Peas in a pillow case.  Shell peas fresh from the garden no blanching, cooking and place loose in a pillow case closed with a twister.  Plop pillowcase in the freezer. Pease freeze individually since they've dry.  When you're ready for some just dip in the pillow case with a measuring cup.  Use different colored pillow cases to separate varieties.  Harvest too punky for a pillow case.  Substitute a plastic bag.
 
In closing about green thumb, you can bet that if you have a green thumb you have a busy thumb as well as a callused palms. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

     ​    Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
       So yesterday was an interesting day.  We had a storm go thru around 10:00 AM and it was a strong cold front against the warm front.  So we had wind, rain and more wind. I sat in our booth area and a couple of times wonder why I decided to do that.  I made sure that the things on the tables were staying put.  The tent stayed in place and just had a few pots of plants on the ground. BUT the popcorn people were watching what I was doing.  EMT's were watching and the church ladies were making sure I was ok.  So no worries I was in good hands.  We had a couple of more rain showers so the crowd was really slow during the day.  Tonight is was a nice evening so the fair goers came out.  I worked on getting things organized, deadheaded and rearranged.  So this was good. 
      Today there will be lots of judging of livestock, free shows, free beef burgers and Grandpa's Farm is to have their demonstration start with old time farming.  There is a whole page of things going on, so it should be a busy day at the Franklin Co Fair. 
 
Gardening advice from the Men's Garden club 1975
Epsom salts can help correct a magnesium deficiency in the soil, which is one of several reasons that can cause tomato blooms to drop.  Buy the course type found at drug stores.  Use about a  handful around plants, scratch not the surface.  Water after application. Some gardeners us Epsom salt in planting holes for tomatoes, peppers an eggplants, others mix a teaspoon with about a pint or so of Lukewarm water and spry it on foliage of pepper and other plants.  
 
Peas in a pillow case.  Shell peas fresh from the garden no blanching, cooking and place loose in a pillow case closed with a twister.  Plop pillowcase in the freezer. Pease freeze individually since they've dry.  When you're ready for some just dip in the pillow case with a measuring cup.  Use different colored pillow cases to separate varieties.  Harvest too punky for a pillow case.  Substitute a plastic bag.
 
In closing about green thumb, you can bet that if you have a green thumb you have a busy thumb as well as a callused palms. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net