I am writing a quick note to say I am here on Sunday.  BUT the weather isn’t very nice.  Windy, very windy, and cold temperatures. This is our opening weekend.  For the 34 years of being here, the Opening weekend has been I would say for 25 years.  Weather that we have been having this weekend, has happened more times than nice spring weather.  Some of you remember the Opening weekend, we would serve a meal.  I did the food, friends brought in the bars, and I had lots of friends help with this.  When the pandemic came, then no meal.  Can I be honest with you, I don’t miss cooking all of that food.  Larry misses the people and all the visiting he did.  We would serve between 300-400 people on the three days of the Opening.  Yes, I made all the food.  So instead, I can spend more time with you the gardener when you come to the greenhouse.  That I enjoy more.  Larry will just have to come from the shop to visit.
     I have been working on cleaning up the front of the greenhouse, and now I want to work on 2 display areas.  Every week, we will be doing something different and adding more things.  Perennials will be coming in this week.  So if you are looking for something in perennials or herbs give me a call and I will see if I have it coming, or if I can get it.  641-794-3337   641-903-9365
Pam G. worked all day Saturday on updating the seed jars with our bulk seeds.  Max Folkerts made the sign that you see.  “Now entering the seedy part of town”….bulk vegetable give you lots of seeds for teaspoon or tablespoon depending on the seed. 
This week looks better for daytime temperatures.  Nighttime temperature is still going to be cooler.  Some of you got rain, some didn’t.  It will come the time to be in the gardens and flower beds.  I promise you. 
Hours:  Monday – Saturday 9-6, Sunday 1-6.  Every day I will be here to help with your gardening needs. 
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

What a lovely day it is. 57 DEGREES, clear, blue sky but clouds moving in.  High today of 70 degrees and low of 45 degrees.  All above the average temperature.  ENJOY as it will change.  This weekend below normal temperatures again.  Stay safe and enjoy…..
I thought I posted this yesterday, but didn’t so here this is.  Some interesting tips about gardening.  We all can always learn and try new things.  I am going to try growing vegetables in pots and fabric pots.  I will post what I do.  Something new…Remember that this is the editors from Farmers Almanac as writing in the first person. 

Time and space can be in short supply when creating your first garden, but don’t worry, we have tips and tricks to get you started in no time! From patios to balconies to raised beds to a simple window sill, we’ll show you quick, fuss-free ways to get growing your own veggies, fruits, and herbs.

There’s nothing quite like harvesting delicious crops you grew yourself! If you’re sitting on the garden fence, wondering whether or not to start a garden, let me show you just how easy it can be no matter what the space you have available to do so.
Here are three super-simple projects to get you growing! We’ll be splitting  apart and potting up tasty herbs; planting up a container garden ideal for any patio or balcony; and, for those with a patch of lawn or ground to spare, starting off a new bed of productive veggies and salads.
​
1. More Herbs for Less
Herbs are a must for flavor and a burst of freshness – perfect for growing on the patio. But they’re also great on any sunny indoor windowsill, so even if you have no garden space, you can still grow herbs!
2. Veggies in Patio Pots
Many outdoor spaces are limited to perhaps a terrace, patio or balcony. Well, it’s truly amazing what you can pack into such a space, and there’s a literal abundance of fresh fruits, veggies and herbs that will grow in pots very happily!
Pots of strawberries are always going to be welcome and are less likely to get eaten by slugs than if they were planted in the ground. And, of course, you can grow just about any herbs in containers. But what about container-grown salads and vegetables? It’s still early spring, but the forecast looks mild enough for the coming week, so let’s plant!
Feel free to use a mixture of pots, as long as they have (or you add) good drainage holes in the bottom. That’s really important because, again, we want excess moisture to drain away so the roots can stay healthy. Of course, you could use just about anything that holds potting mix as a container – so long as it has holes in the bottom or you can make them if they haven’t.
The cheapest way to get started is to sow seeds but if you want to jump a step closer to harvest time you can buy plug plants instead (see video). Plugs give you a bit of a head start and skip the most precarious stage of growing. Of course, start seeds where possible, but there’s nothing wrong at all with using plug plants for that extra peace of mind.
Exactly when you start to sow or plant really depends on your location, but midspring is a great time to begin, as daytime temperatures warm up to coax our seedlings along. See the Almanac’s Planting Calendar by zip code or postal code.
Let’s begin with some salads, starting with these lettuce plugs. Use a shallow container for these, because lettuce roots don’t extend down very far. Almost all crops will happily grow in any all-purpose or multipurpose potting mix, so that’s what I’m going in with here. And now let’s pop out our lettuces… and get them planted. And  finish with a good drink of water to settle them in.
You could, of course, just sow direct into the pot, and just scatter seeds very thinly over the surface. Try a mix of Asian leaves like mizuna and mustard, which will give a really pleasing textural contrast to those smooth and mild lettuce leaves. Then cover the seeds over with a little more mix and give everything a gentle water, too.
Finally, seeing as they’re ready to plant, it’s the turn of peas. Try a dwarf variety, which makes them ideal for container growing. Let’s pop them out and get them in. And, just to help them stay upright, some twiggy sticks.
Is it too strong a statement to say that gardening can change your life? I don’t think so! There’s a purposefulness about gardening: sowing and planting and picking the rewards that follow. This sort of stuff is deeply satisfying – and when you create the opportunity to grow… well, you do too.
Patio or balcony produce is particularly satisfying to grow because it’s so up close and personal, and it’s easy to keep a close eye on how your plants are doing. Keep your pots watered in dry weather – this may mean once or even twice a day in the hottest weeks of summer. Fruiting vegetables like tomatoes and peppers will also need feeding with an organic liquid fertilizer once they come into flower to give plants the resources they need to produce lots of tempting fruits. And don’t forget to resow or add to your patio pots from time to time, to keep the pickings coming!
I’m also going to be sowing some carrots. And then, once things have warmed up, there’ll be patio tomatoes and peppers to be planted – but only after my last frost in a few weeks.
3. Grow a Bed of Edibles
If you have some garden space, then the next stage is to grow delicious produce either directly in the ground into soil you’ve enriched with organic matter such as compost, or in raised beds. This, of course, does away with the cost associated with the potting mix used to fill containers, though of course you’ll need to fill the beds to begin with. And because roots can get down into the soil and explore, the only input needed to maintain your garden in tiptop condition – whether in-ground or in beds – is little more than an annual top-up of compost, which you can, of course, make yourself.
You can make a simple raised bed from old pallet collars, which can be picked up very cheaply – though you could easily make a bed from planks of wood screwed together at the corners. Pallet collars are great because they’re a lug-and-play way to get growing.
Simply open the pallet collar up and position your raised bed so it’s nice and level, either by digging it in or building it up as necessary. Cover any weeds or grass with plain cardboard to smother and kill them off. Then fill soil, compost, very well-rotted manure or a combination of any of these.
Did you know: There’s actually evidence to show that time spent close to the soil actually lifts our mood by exposing us to feel-good bacteria within it. The dirt doesn’t hurt… it makes us smile!
Your raised bed should go in the Sun, but if it’s a partial shade, select crops that can tolerate a little shade, at least for part of the day. If you have our Garden Planner, you can select veggies for partial shade tolerance then drop those crops into the bed.
First in are some salad onions, which I sowed a bit earlier into this plug tray to get a head start. And now these radishes. These were all sown in clusters, and can go out together, as they are, but I’m leaving a touch more space between each cluster to compensate for the fact they’re in multiples. The same with these beets, or beetroot, which are going about a foot or 30cm apart. That might seem like a lot, especially when they’re so small, but it’s surprising how quickly put on masses of growth and fill out!
For me, growing at least some of the food I eat is important because I know exactly where it’s come from. I know the food I grow is grown in tune with nature – organically and in soil that’s shown some love. The result is unrivalled taste and great nutritional content – something lacking in much of the food grown commercially on increasingly overworked soils. It also gives me a deeper connection with the natural world. It’s hard to explain… I just feel happier and more contented seeing some of my produce travel all the way from seed to plate.
Okay, so let’s finish off here with a few direct sowings. These carrots here are a salad variety. They’ll produce sweet, finger sized carrots which will be one of the first prized pickings of early summer. Mark out a shallow row, or drill like this – and we need about a foot or 30 cm between the rows, which means I can get a couple in here. And then in we go with our seeds. Take small pinches at a time and sow as thinly as you can – ideally, we want no more than a couple of seeds every half inch or 1 cm or so. And then we’ll cover them over. Once the seedlings are up, we’ll remove some of the seedlings to leave a couple of carrots every inch, or one every centimeter.
And finally some spinach. I’m going to sow three or four seeds every 6in or 15cm – in both directions. Again, once they’re up I will thin the seedlings to leave the strongest at each position.
Let’s finish with a thorough watering to settle everything in and set the seeds on their way. And just because it’s still very early in the growing season I’m going to cover the bed with this row cover of fleece to keep the hungry pigeons off till the plants have found their feet and to keep seedlings snug should it turn cold again.
Getting the first home and garden-grown crops started off is thrilling! These are simple but intense pleasures!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/start-garden-60-minutes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Becky's Greenhouse 

      What a grand day it is.  The temperature at 1:30 PM is at 51 Degrees.  It feels really good in the greenhouse.  IT is official, I have moved the office to the greenhouse.  Computer, printer, paperwork will be done here.  I am writing this in the greenhouse.  Being open from 9-6 each day and 1-6 on Sunday, it doesn’t leave too much time at home.  So, move what I can from home.  Office and computer can be that. 

You will enjoy the shade I created as the sun is really bright to see a good computer screen.  When you come you will see.  The crew has taken over the watering inside the greenhouse, I did it till this week.  That way I could see if any plants were having any trouble.  With being open to the gardeners, I just can’t do all of that.  When the plants are on the wagon trailers outside, then I will use the sprinkler system Larry came up with to water them. 

We are hoping tomorrow to start bringing plants out to harden off outside.  We are full so can’t do anymore planting till that happens.  Some of the plants are perfect, so having them outside in a cooler temperature will be good.  Larry will still put the wagon trailers in the east greenhouse at night as it will be still cooler out. 

Yesterday we got our trees in.  The fruit trees were budding, and I asked the driver if they were outside when they loaded them. “ No, they came out of a greenhouse.”  With help, we loaded on a wagon trailer so they could be in the east greenhouse till the nights get over a frost or freeze.  Looks like tonight and then the nights will get warmer.
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I posted a picture of yellow nonstop begonia.  Doesn’t that bring smiles.  We have lots of planting blooming in the greenhouse.  Quote from Nancy,” I just can’t believe how the plants I just planted a month ago are blooming and have grown.”  I just said this is a miracle house.  We plant, we water and they grow and bloom.  Soon you all will be planting and enjoying your plants.  Stay safe, stay warm and enjoy.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365   

image from clipartmag.com 

     Good morning, clear, blue sky this morning looks great out, but then looked at the thermometer. The temperature is 29 degrees at 7:00 AM.  Partly sunny, high today of 58 but low tonight 29.  Frost in the air.  It is going to warm up all week, which will be good.  Below normal temperatures for the rest of April.  We have plenty of time to plant the garden, but gardeners all want to get into the garden and play in the dirt.  I promise you it will come. 
We are getting ready for your gardening needs in the greenhouse.  We are still going to keep the plants in the greenhouse for a couple more days.  Hopefully on Wednesday, we can start moving plants out to the wagon racks.  The plants are in a good place and they need to be hardened off for your gardens.

I found this article about planting your vegetable seeds and the timing of when to do it.  I am going to put this into a newsletter when you come you can pick it up. 
How to Direct-Sow Seeds Outdoors  by The Editors
Most vegetables are started from seed sown directly in the garden. This is often called “direct seeding.” Learn which vegetable are best grown from seed and how to direct-sow seeds so that they survive and thrive.

Starting Your Vegetable Garden
When it comes to growing vegetables at home, you have two options for getting your garden started: you can start vegetables from seed (indoors or outdoors in the garden) or purchase small starter plants (called “transplants”) from a local garden center. Many gardeners use a mix of these techniques in their vegetable gardens each year.
Which method is best? It depends. Many vegetables prefer being directly seeded into the ground and do not thrive as well if they’re transplanted or disturbed. In this article, we focus on vegetables which are planted as seed directly into the ground outdoors.
Of the vegetables that are planted as seed directly into the garden: Some are considered “cool-season” vegetables, which need a cool period to germinate, and others are “warm-season” vegetables, which need the soil to be warm enough to germinate and will not survive a frost. Here’s a helpful list:
Cool-Season Vegetables
“Cool-season” vegetables have seeds which will germinate in cool soil. They are often planted in the spring (to mature before the weather gets hot) and in the summer (to mature in the cool of autumn). Below is a list of those veggies which prefer to be seeded directly into the soil (not transplanted):

Very hardy (can be planted 4 to 6 weeks before average last frost date)  Here in north central Iowa May 15 is our last frost date. 
Collards
Endive
Fava beans
Kale
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Lettuce
Onions
Peas
Rutabagas
Spinach
Turnips
 
Hardy (can be planted 2 to 3 weeks before average last frost date) Here in north central Iowa May 15 is our last frost date. 
Beets
Carrots
Chard
Mustard
Parsnips
Radishes
Warm-Season Vegetables
“Warm-season” veggies grow best in warm weather and seeds germinate only if the soil is warm enough. If planted too early, seed may rot in the ground. A late spring frost will kill them, as will the first autumn frost. Below is a list of those veggies which prefer to be seeded directly into the soil (not transplanted):

Tender (plant 0 to 2 weeks after frost; injured or killed by frost but tolerant of cold weather)  Here in north central Iowa May 15 is our last frost date. 
Snap beans
Dry beans
New Zealand spinach
Summer squash
Sweet corn
Warm-loving (plant 2 to 4 weeks after frost; killed by frost immediately and not tolerant of cold weather)

Cucurbit seeds (which include cucumbers, muskmelons, watermelons, pumpkins, summer squash, winter squash, and gourds) require very warm soil to germinate, at least 60°F. Seeds may rot if the soil temperatures are under 60°F.
These I would suggest planting after June 1st.  I am not kidding about that.
Cucumbers
Garbanzo beans
Lima beans
Melons
Okra
Pumpkins
Soybeans
Winter squash
Yardlong Beans
Before Sowing Seeds
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It goes without saying (but we’ll say it again), you can’t just scatter seeds on the ground and expect all plants to grow!  Similar to a human, plants need the right environment, nourishment, and water. Here are some things to keep in mind before sowing seeds:
Know Your Planting Dates. Before you even start planting, know when each vegetable should be planted.
Have a Plan. Know where each vegetable will go. For example, consider which vegetables need shade and which vegetables are tall so they do not shade shorter plants. Also, plant so that you can reach the center of the row or bed easily enough to weed, water, and harvest. Provide permanent beds for perennial crops such as rhubarb, asparagus, and some herbs. Remember, you can plant cool-season crops in the same place as warm-season crops later in the season, based on the vegetable’s days to maturity (on the seed packet). Try our Garden Planner to plan your garden for success.
Prepare the Soil. Your seeds need rich, fertile soil to grow. Add organic matter in the spring and work it into the soil, digging down about 1 foot to loosen the soil. Alternatively, do as many gardeners do and add organic matter in the fall so that it needs little work in the spring. See our page on how to prepare the soil for planting.
Remove Weeds. Before you plant any seeds, the area MUST be weed-free! Otherwise, the weeds are competition for water and nutrients.
Apply Fertilizer. In the spring—shortly before planting—work fertilizer into the soil. A soil test will help determine soil deficiences. Learn more about how to apply fertilizers to your garden.
Use Quality Seed. Seeds do have a shelf life, and while you can often get away with using older seeds, just be prepared for lower germination rates. Use fresh seed from a reputable company for the best results. Also, if you save you own seeds, do not save seeds from hybrid plants. Most hybrid plants will not be “true” to their parent type, so you could end up with a completely different (and possibly disappointing) fruit or flower. See more about saving vegetable seeds.
Starting Indoors. For vegetables that grow slowly from seed, try starting seeds indoors several weeks before the planting dates. Vegetables that grow slowly from seed and are ideal to start indoors include: tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, and peppers. See our article on how to start seeds indoors.
Prepping Warm-Season Crops. Before planting warm-season crops, especially cucurbits, you can warm the soil with different techniques, such as forming a mound or hill and/or using black plastic. To form a hill, mound soil to make a low, broad hill about 8 to 10 inches high. Lay any black plastic on the soil surface as early as possible in the spring. Simply cut a hole in the plastic in the area where you want a plant to be located; the plastic will keep the soil warmer and suppress weeds around the plant. Learn more about warming the soil.
Protect Seedlings From Frost. If you plant in early spring, be prepared to insulate young seedlings from cold weather—from cloches to row covers.
How to Plant Seeds
Sowing seeds is pretty simple, but there are some tips and tricks to make it easier, including the following:
Sow at the proper depth. In general, plant seeds at a depth two times the seed’s diameter, no deeper. However, do refer to the seed packet for this information. Some seeds only need to be pressed into the soil surface, as they need more light to germinate. For seeds at two or three times the depth, poke individual holes for seeds or create a furrow. You can use a pencil to poke holes if you wish!
Pay attention to seed spacing. You can plant lettuce, radishes, carrots, and other small seeds densely, and then thin them to the correct spacing when the seedlings are small. In general plan to sow some extra seeds, since not all seeds may germinate.
Plant in defined rows if you are a beginner; don’t scatter widely. It’s easier to keep weeds down between rows and identfy seedlings from weedlings. (Weeds don’t usually grow in rows!) Often, rows are spaced about a foot apart, but refer to your seed packet for specifics. See our helpful page on vegetable seedling identification.
Firm the soil, once seeds are sown. This ensures good contact between seed and soil.
Water new seeds gently! Don’t turn the hose on full strength and blast them or you’ll wash those seeds away or cause them to drift together. Use a fine, gentle mist to moisten the soil or let the water hose slowly trickle around the area.
Prevent soil crusting. Weak seedlings (such as carrots) can struggle to break thrugh the soil surface if a hard crust forms. After covering seeds with soil, add a thin layer of fine mulch or compost to help prevent crusting. When you plant, you can also mix in seeds that germinate quickly (such as radishes), which will break through the crust and allow weaker seedings to grow.
“Hill” vining plants. When direct-sowing large vining plants such as squash, melon, and cucumber, consider planting them on a hill. Each hill should be spaced 4 to 8 feet apart. Plant 4 to 6 seeds in a circle in 5-inch intervals on each hill. Thin when seedlings have 2 or 3 leaves. Remove all but 2 to 3 large, healthy, well-spaced plants per hill. More than 3 plants per hill will lead to crowding, greater chance of disease, and lower yields.
Mark the spot where you planted your row of vegetables; it’s very easily to forget, especially when you are trying to differentiate between seedlings and weeds! Use a popsicle stick to label rows, or anything that works for you!
Caring for Seeds and Seedlings
Once seeds are sown, be sure to keep them cared for!
Keep soil moist until the seed germinates. Watering seeds is critical. Never let the soil get dry; seedlings do not have a good root system and will dry out within hours, especially if it’s windy outside. Use drip irrigation or put the hose at ground level and let the water gently soak the planting area. Learn more about when to water vegetables.
You’ll need to thin seedlings to the right spacing when they are a couple of inches high. Don’t be scared to thin! If you don’t, your plants won’t have space and nutrients to grow and will crowd together.
Protect seedlings. Some pests do love those tender seedlings, too. If you have critters or pests, there are a number of different techniques to protect your seedlings, including netting, row covers, and little plant collars. See how to stay ahead of garden pests.
Provide trellises and supports such as poles or cages. For example, cucumbers need vertical supports to produce straight (rather than curved or malformed) fruit. Any vining or sprawling plant such as melons or pole beans also need supports. Tomatoes also need supports or cages for their heavy fruit.
Pinch back leggy plants. Many vegetables—and especially herbs—benefit from being “pinched back” after they have grown 3 sets of true leaves. Pinching back simply involves pruning the top of the plant back to its next set of leaves. This will encourage more branches so that your plant does not get leggy and grows in a more compact way.
Continue to pamper your seedlings until they become established plants!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/sowing-seeds-vegetable-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

violas 

cabbage, broccoli 

part of what the crew has planted 

petunias 

peppers 

lettuce pots 

      Good morning, Temperature is chilly with 36 temperature and having wind chill so it is feeling like 27 degrees.  Stay warm.  Unfortunately, we are going to have a cold weekend.  Sounds like next week being the end of April it will be cooler and below average temperatures. 
Here is what the Old Farmer’s Almanac has predicted for our May weather.  Above normal temperatures for us here in Iowa, and above normal rain.  IF so, then we can get out in the gardens. 

We will be open on Monday April 24 from 9 till 6.  Every day open at 9-6.  Sunday open from 1-6.  I am posting pictures of what the crew has been planting and we have been growing here at Becky’s Greenhouse.  Spring is here, planting will be coming too, I promise. 
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What weather can we expect for May 2023? Looks like a chilly April is going to flip to warmer-than-average May. After what will have been a somewhat chilly April, the month of May could see the thermometer really rising across much of the United States. Temperatures are expected to be above average across many parts of the country, with the exception of the Intermountain West. Across Canada, while the Northwest Territories are expected to be cooler than normal, the rest of the country will see near- or above-normal temperatures.
With regard to precipitation, May will likely turn out to be drier than average across New England, while the mid-Atlantic and Southeast regions will be on the wet side. Most of the area from the Ohio Valley down to the Gulf Coast will see near-normal rainfall, as opposed to much of the Upper Midwest and Plains, where above-normal precipitation will be the norm. Many parts of the West will be on the dry side after withstanding a very wet (and snowy, in the mountains) winter. Alaska and Hawaii will see near- to above-normal precipitation. In just about everywhere except Atlantic Canada, where there will be a little less rain than usual, Canadians can expect above-normal precipitation throughout the month of May, which means the arrival of quite a few showers to help to get the green things growing.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/may-forecast
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest    burl wood on a tree 

    Good morning. We are having rain now this morning, and rain came during the night.  Looks like ½ inch which is much needed.  We had ½ inch earlier this week.  So, this will make spring POP when it gets warmer out.   Now it is 43 degrees with a high today of 60 and a low of 43.  BUT it is going to change….imagine that.  Cold air is coming for this weekend.  Our plants will be staying in the greenhouse yet. 

I have been working on cleaning up a corner to make more room for racks so the crew can continue to plant.  It will be nice when it is done, but you know how it looks when you are cleaning….a big mess than when you started. 

All of this is happening because we will be open Monday April 24th.  Trees/shrubs/perennials will be coming in.  You know, that is what we buy in.  The rest of the plants here we grow out of the greenhouse.  We are growers.  We take care of these plants with tender loving care. 

I found this article, and I am out of my comfort zone when I talk about trees.  But found this interesting.  Have any of you seen this on your trees? 
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What Are Tree Burls and How Do They Happen?  By DAVID BEAULIEU
A tree burl (or "wood burl") is a bulbous, woody growth that you may spot on a trunk or branch. A burl forms as the result of stress that its tree has undergone.
What Is a Tree Burl?
A burl is a bulbous, rounded tree growth usually found on tree trunks and sometimes on branches. Burls form as the result of stress that its tree has undergone.
Though burls can raise concerns for new tree owners because of their strange appearance, they're quite harmless: the presence of a burl doesn't signal any problem in tree health you need to address. Some people feel burls mar the appearance of a tree, but artisans value them as raw materials for making high-end furniture, vases, and more.
What Is Burl Wood?
Tree burls can even form below ground level, but, since they go unnoticed, we are usually only aware of the burls that form on a tree's trunk and/or branches. The size of burls varies greatly, with the larger ones being of greater interest to woodworkers (some, for example, are large enough to be crafted into table tops). The shape is irregular but generally rounded.
 
If you don't like the look of a tree on your property having one of these deformities, resist the temptation to cut the burl off. Doing so would leave an open wound that would invite disease into the tree. You should either learn to love the burl as an oddity of nature or have the whole tree taken down.
How Do Tree Burls Grow?
Researchers are only just beginning to understand exactly how burl wood grows (if we knew exactly, we could have burl farms instead of relying on nature to produce burls). But the likely explanation is as follows:
Stress is the origin of burls. These misshapen bumps are the result of their host trees fighting stress, which triggers a defense mechanism. Examples of stress-causing conditions range from insect or fungal infestations to the sapping of a tree's strength by parasitical mistletoe.
The triggering of this defense mechanism causes the normal processes of tree growth to be thrown out of whack1 (thus the unpredictability associated with burls). In response to the stress, tissue from unopened foliar buds begins to build up. The burl may continue growing for decades; during all that time, new, undeveloped bud tissue continues to build up in layers. As long as bark covers the exterior of the burl, the tissue is protected from any harm.
Harvesting Burl Wood
Since you can't cut a burl off a tree without damaging the tree, part of the harvesting process is cutting down the whole tree. If there are multiple trees on your property with burls on them, practice first on a smaller tree.
WARNING
In fact, you may want to leave felling larger trees to professionals. The hazards involved in using chainsaws are legion, and the danger rises exponentially the larger the tree to be felled is.
Once the tree is down, make two cuts in the tree itself, one a few inches below the burl, the other a few inches above it (some of the burl grain you're going to want to keep extends into the tree itself). Apply end grain sealer (sold at woodworking supply stores) to the ends to help with the preservation. Store the burl in a dry place so that it can be drying out while you consider what you wish to do with it.
Why Is Burl Wood So Popular?
To begin to answer this question, we note that, just like human fingerprints, no two burls are alike. The grain inside of each one is unique, and you never know what the grain pattern is going to be until you expose the inside.
This means that, if you have an object in your decor made from burl wood, it will truly be a one-of-a-kind piece that no one else in the world has. Burl wood adds stunning beauty and visual interest to a room.
What kinds of trees do burls grow on?
Burls can grow on many types of trees but are more commonly found on some than others. These include: ash (Fraxinus spp.), cherry (Prunus spp.), elm (Ulmus spp.), maple (Acer spp.), oak (Quercus spp.), and walnut (Juglans spp.).
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/tree-burl-7153353
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

WAVE pansies, last all season long
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Good morning…not like the other mornings.  Cloudy, cooler at 41 degrees at 8:00 AM, and we had rain.  We had ½” overnight.  High today of 66 degrees and a low of 44 degrees.  We are in the area for hail, wind, rain and storms tonight.  Stay safe.  I just came in from outside.  The north wind is blowing and it is just darn COLD out. 

I am showing you pictures of my helpers this spring.  Lyle and Ann Chambers, and Nancy Johnson.  We couldn’t have done it without them planting.  I will show a couple of the plants that look great.  MORE to come.

Open on Monday April 24.  9-6 and that is the start of being open every day till the end of June.  Monday thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 1-6.  The last weekend of April was always on Open House weekend. We will be open and have some fun things for you to do.  Perennials, trees/shrubs are all coming next week.

All the annuals and vegetables we are growing are in the greenhouse.  The temperature is still going to be below freezing at night this weekend.  As soon as we can the plants will come outside on the long wagon racks for your shopping.  BUT we have it already in the greenhouse to shop.  
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We have seed potatoes, onion sets and bulk seeds for your vegetable garden.  The cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, celery and brussels sprouts look great.  After this rain we are having today and tomorrow, once it dries up the garden should be ready to go.  After the cold nights of this weekend too.  BUT you realize it can get a killing frost for us here in North Central Iowa till May 15.  Gardening makes us plant when all is ready to plant. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

WAVE pansies  last all season long

Violas 

cabbage, broccoli 

Good morning…not like the other mornings.  Cloudy, cooler at 41 degrees at 8:00 AM, and we had rain.  We had ½” overnight.  High today of 66 degrees and a low of 44 degrees.  We are in the area for hail, wind, rain and storms tonight.  Stay safe.  I just came in from outside.  The north wind is blowing, and it is just darn COLD out. 

I am showing you pictures of my helpers this spring.  Lyle and Ann Chambers, and Nancy Johnson.  We couldn’t have done it without them planting.  I will show a couple of the plants that look great.  MORE to come.

Open on Monday April 24.  9-6 and that is the start of being open every day till the end of June.  Monday thru Saturday 9-6, Sunday 1-6.  The last weekend of April was always on Open House weekend. We will be open and have some fun things for you to do.  Perennials, trees/shrubs are all coming next week.

All the annuals and vegetables we are growing are in the greenhouse.  The temperature is still going to be below freezing at night this weekend.  As soon as we can the plants will come outside on the long wagon racks for your shopping.  BUT we have it already in the greenhouse to shop.  
​
We have seed potatoes, onion sets and bulk seeds for your vegetable garden.  The cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, celery and brussels sprouts look great.  After this rain we are having today and tomorrow, once it dries up the garden should be ready to go.  After the cold nights of this weekend too.  BUT you realize it can get a killing frost for us here in North Central Iowa till May 15.  Gardening makes us plant when all is ready to plant. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 

image from Pinterest

      Good morning it is.  Blue, clear sky temperature is 44 degrees at 10 AM.  High today is 61. Low tonight of 44 degrees.  This is what our average temperatures should be for this day.  ENJOY…..rain in the forecast, but we do need moisture so that will be good.  I will be posting pictures of what is growing in the greenhouse soon.  Opening day is April 24th, and then open every day till the end of June.   ENJOY this weather.  Stay safe.

We are growing many different colors of annual dianthus.  We will have several perennials dianthus from Swift’s Greenhouse here also.  Give them a try.  They are great for mass planting or container pots. 
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Darling dianthus flowers bring beguiling fragrance and cheerful color to sunny borders or containers. Also known as “pinks,” this hardy, adaptable plant ranges from low-growing annuals to taller perennials (such as carnations). If you deadhead, dianthus will keep reblooming from spring sometimes until fall frost!
About Dianthus Flowers
Ancient Greek botanist Theophrastus (c.371–c.287 B.C.) gave the Dianthus genus its name: “divine flower” (dios + anthos). Ever since, gardeners have been smitten with these plants’ charms: a sweet and spicy fragrance and lovely fringed blossoms in many colors (intense pink, white, lavender, yellow, red, bicolor).
Dianthus are popular for many reasons. Besides being hardy and adaptable, they are also long-blooming and will flower prolifically through the summer season if you deadhead the faded flowers. And their fragrance is lovely—similar to cloves. The flowers also attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators to the garden.  And, they’re deer-resistant!
The common name “pinks” is not because of their most common color (an intense pink) but for the unique fringed or jagged edges of their 5-petal blooms that look like they’ve been cut with pinking shears.
Is Dianthus a Perennial or Annual?
Dianthuses can be annual, biennial, or perennial. Dianthuses genus covers over 300 species; as a gardeners’ favorite, they have been extensively bred and hybridized. Most varieties are 10 to 20 inches tall, but dianthus varieties range from annual creeping ground covers to 24-inch (or longer) long-stemmed perennials (such as carnations) suitable for cutting. This genus also includes Sweet Williams (D. barbatus), which are biennial or short-lived perennials.  Depending on the variety, dianthuses bring cheer to sunny garden borders, rock gardens, or containers; they especially look great as bedding plants when massed together.
PLANTING
Dianthuses demand full sun (they fail to thrive in shade) and well-draining soil (standing water will rot the roots). Improve the soil drainage if necessary (e.g., mix in compost with heavy soil).
When to Plant Dianthus
Direct-seed outdoors in early spring when a light frost is still possible. If transplanting a small nursery plant, plant during the cooler months in spring or fall to encourage deep rooting.
If sowing seeds indoors, start them 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost.
How to Plant Dianthus
When direct-seeding outdoors, only cover lightly with soil; seeds need light to germinate.
If transplanting, space plants 6 to 12 inches apart (depending on variety) for good air circulation. Set so the crown is level with soil surface and water lightly.
If sowing seeds indoors, press sees lightly into moist potting medium; cover lightly and keep moist. Apply bottom heat. When seedlings break through the soil, place seed trays in a sun-drenched window. Annual germinate in about 10 days, perennials in 3 weeks. Harden off and transplant seedlings when they have four sets of leaves and there is no danger of frost.
GROWING
Avoid mulch, especially close to the stem; good air circulation is needed to avoid crown rot.
Water only when soil is dry and be careful not to overwater.
Fertilize a few times during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer (equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or a phosphate-rich tomato fertilizer.
Deadhead faded flowers, removing the stems, too, for more blooms.
Shear plants back after flowering in late summer to encourage a second set of flowers later in the season.
Many varieties self-seed if blossoms are not removed.
At season’s end, leave evergreen foliage for fall and winter interest or cut stems back to 1 to 2 inches above the soil surface.
Divide established plants every 2 to 3 years in early spring or after flowering.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
The dianthus family contains over 300 species and hundreds of hybrid varieties. According to the North American Dianthus Society, these are the best varieties for home gardens:
Hardy rock garden pinks: alpine pinks (Dianthus alpinus) and Cheddar pinks (D. gratianopolitanus) and their hybrids; strongly scented, small flowers on 2- to 6-inch-tall plants; grassy gray-green leaves; hardy in Zones 3 to 9
Cottage pinks (D. plumarius): clove-scented, lilac-pink flowers; grass-like foliage, 12 to 15 inches tall; deadhead for rebloom in fall; hardy in Zones 3 to 9
China pinks (D. chinensis): lightly scented flowers on 6- to 10-inch-tall stalks over 3- to 4-inch-high mounds; hardy perennials in zones 7 to 10
Clusterheads, e.g., Sweet William (D. barbatus): clusters of single or double white, pink, red, or salmon flowers on 12- to 24-inch-tall stems; annual, biennial, or short-lived perennial; hardy in Zones 3 to 9
Carnations (D. caryophyllus), aka the florist’s flower: multi-petaled blooms on 12- to 24-inch stems; curly, blue-green foliage; hardy in zones 5 to 8. Choose hardy perennial border carnations (aka “wild carnations”) over frost-tender varieties that require a greenhouse.
HARVESTING
Dianthus make excellent cut flowers. Many varieties have a spicy fragrance in addition to a long vase life of 7 to 21 days. Cut flowers for arrangements when the are just opening. Cut the bottom of the stems at a slant, just above a node on the stem. Remove leaves that are submerged in the water.  Replace the water every 3 days.  Re-cut the stems after 1 week.
WIT AND WISDOM
In Tudor and Edwardian times dianthus had several names: gillyflower, pheasant’s ear, and sops-in-wine. It is also known as cottage pink and clove pink.
Dianthus flower petals are edible; remove and discard the bitter petal base before using. 
“Hot July brings cooling showers, apricots and gillyflowers.”
–Sara Coleridge, British writer (1802–52)
PESTS/DISEASES
Dianthus is deer-resistant.
Diseases: aster yellows, Botrytis blight, leaf spot, root and stem rots, rust, wilt
Pests: aphids, grasshoppers, slugs and snails, sow bugs
COOKING NOTES
Dianthus flowers are edible; the petals are sometimes candied and used as edible decoration. Discard the bitter petal base before using and avoid ingesting the foliage and stems, as they can cause indigestion.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/dianthus
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

 Good morning….positive thoughts about weather.  Clear, blue sky.  For us here in North Central Iowa just a little snow left on the grass.  Concerns about the weather.  Wind is blowing so that will make 35 degrees colder, high of 53 and low of 28 tonight. On the greenhouse side, I was going to start putting plants outside on the racks to make room for more planting.  The racks would go into the east greenhouse, but that greenhouse is unheated.  The plants look so good, I don’t want to take a chance of them getting touch with cold.  BUT I don’t like the temperatures at night till the weekend.  It will be cold again Saturday and Sunday morning.  What I am going to do, is make more room in the greenhouse for 3 more big carts so the help can continue to plant this week.  It will be good to get one corner cleaned out anyway. 
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Here is an easy herb for you to start in the house.  That is always fun to be watching seeds turn into plants. 
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Basil  by The Editors
Basil grows until first frost! Get it while it’s still good. Keep harvesting leaves and trimming off flowers to keep the plant going strong! Here’s what to know about growing basil.
About Basil
The most common type of basil is sweet basil; other types include purple basil (less sweet than common basil), lemon basil (lemon flavor), and Thai basil (licorice flavor).
Basil is easy to grow, but it only grows outdoors in the summer—and only once the soil has warmed up nicely—so plan accordingly.
If you’re planning on making pesto, grow several plants. For other uses, one or two basil plants yield plenty.
PLANTING
Basil will grow best in a location that gets 6 to 8 hours of full sun daily, though it can perform well in partial sun, too.
Soil should be moderately fertile and moist but well-draining. Basil works great in containers or raised beds, as these allow for better drainage. The pH of the soil should ideally be in the range of 6.0 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral).
If you’re planning on cooking with these plants, plant in clean soil, don’t use insecticides, and grow them away from driveways and busy streets so that exhaust won’t settle on the plants.
When to Plant Basil
To get a jump on the season, start the seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
To plant outside, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50°F (10°C)—preferably around 70ºF (21°C) for best growth. Nighttime temperatures shouldn’t drop below 50°F (10°C).
Don’t rush basil. Without heat, the plant won’t grow well!
How to Plant Basil
Sow seeds no more than 1/4-inch deep. Once seedlings emerge and have 2-3 pairs of true leaves, thin seedlings to one plant every 10 to 12 inches. Basil should grow to about 12 to 24 inches in height.
For larger varieties, plant farther apart (about 16 to 24 inches).
Tomatoes make great neighbors for basil plants in the garden—and on the plate!
Basil and tomato plant
A tomato plant (center) growing alongside basil.
GROWING
How to Grow Basil
Make sure that the soil is moist. Basil plants like moisture.
If you live in a hot area, use mulch around the plants (the mulch will help hold in moisture and suppress weeds).
During the dry periods in summer, water the plants freely.
After the seedlings have produced their first six leaves, prune to above the second set. This encourages the plants to start branching, resulting in more leaves for harvest.
Every time a branch has six to eight leaves, repeat pruning the branches back to their first set of leaves.
Fertilize sparingly throughout the season with a 5-10-5 fertilizer.
After about 6 weeks, pinch off the center shoot to prevent early flowering. If flowers do grow, just cut them off.
If the weather is going to be cold or if a sudden frost is imminent, be sure to harvest your basil beforehand, as the cold temperatures will destroy your plants.
Basil leaves in pot
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Cinnamon basil, to add a hint of cinnamon to a dish
Purple basil, to add some nice color to your garden (when steeped in white vinegar, it creates a beautiful color)
Thai basil, to add a sweet licorice flavor to a dish.
HARVESTING
How to Harvest Basil
Start picking the leaves of basil as soon as the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall.
Once temperatures hit 80°F (27°C), basil will really start leafing out.
Harvest in the early morning, when leaves are at their juiciest.
Make sure to pick the leaves regularly to encourage growth throughout the summer.
Even if you don’t need the leaves, pick them to keep the plant going. Store them for later use!
If you pick regularly, twelve basil plants can produce 4 to 6 cups of leaves per week.
How to Store Basil
The best method for storing basil is freezing. Freezing will prevent the plant from losing a good portion of its flavor. To quick-freeze basil, package whole or chopped leaves in airtight, resealable plastic bags, then place in the freezer.
Another storage method is drying the basil (although some of the flavor will be lost). Pinch off the leaves at the stem and place them in a well-ventilated and shady area. After 3 to 4 days, if the plants are not completely dry, place them in the oven on the lowest heat setting with the door slightly open. Remember to turn the leaves (for equal drying) and check them frequently. See more about drying basil, tomatoes, and paprika.
WIT AND WISDOM
Basil has a lovely fragrance. Pick from the stems and put in water for a few days as you would with cut flowers!
For other greens to use in your cuisine, see our Leafy Greens: Health Benefits page.
Where salt is good, so is basil.
–Italian saying
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Variety of bacterial and fungal leaf, stem, and root diseases.
Taken fromhttps://www.almanac.com/plant/basil
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365