image from Pinterset

      ​Morning, and all of us in Iowa is watching the sky.  Storm watches with severe to moderate.  Temperature is 54 degrees at 7:45AM.  That is warm, and that is what is going to make this day be active.  Lots of moisture coming from the south, and a front coming from the west.  Tornados, strong wind, large hail ….Just stay safe. 
 
Is rhubarb a fruit or vegetable?  Here is the care of rhubarb. 
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Rhubarb by The Editors
What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost from no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, jams, and sauces. Plant in early spring when the soil is workable. Learn everything you need to know to grow and care for your own rhubarb.
About Rhubarb
Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America not long thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens. Rhubarb is easy to grow, but needs a dormancy period to really thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.
The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.
What’s wonderful about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: It will produce for many years, five or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to just go ahead and plant it near their compost piles!
With its ruby or green stems and umbrella-like leaves, rhubarb also adds height and structure to your garden along with a splash of gorgeous color that will return year in and year out.
PLANTING
Rhubarb grows best in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade.
Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded.
When to Plant Rhubarb
Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or in early spring.
In fall, plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy has set in, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
In spring, plant crowns as soon as the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.
Spacing for Rhubarb
How to Plant Rhubarb
Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center, nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimen or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
Dig large, bushel-basket–size holes.
Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
Water well at the time of planting.
GROWING
Overcrowding is common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them.
Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry days of summer.
Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could otherwise be used for producing stalks or roots.
Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed.
In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of an organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.
HARVESTING
Do not harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.
After a plant’s third year, the harvest period runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; this means the plant’s food reserves are low.
Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
Always leave at least 2 stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for up to 20 years without having to replace your rhubarb plants.
It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant becomes toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after mid-summer, it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.
How to Store Rhubarb
Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.
Cut rhubarb stalks in pieces and place in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put in freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.
WIT AND WISDOM
Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/rhubarb
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

     Good morning.  Let us see…it is Thursday and no rain or snow today but tomorrow will be a severe weather for us here in Iowa.  Strong winds, hail, straight line winds or tornadoes and heavy rain.  That is what is predicted.  Stay safe all. 
​
Growing Sugar Snap Peas
How to Grow Snap Peas  by Robin Sweetser
Are you a fan of sugar snap peas? You’re in luck. A couple years ago, I planted a disease-resistant version of the beloved ‘Sugar Snap’ pea and the yield was excellent—plus, all the pods were the fat, crunchy ones we have come to love!
I always tell myself that I’ll plant my snap peas at the first sight of the bare earth, but somehow a new snowstorm always manages to interfere! Fortunately, snow is good for growing snap peas.
I had a neighbor years ago—an old farmer who always planted his peas as soon as the ground could be worked in the spring. In many years, his newly planted pea rows were soon covered by a foot or more of wet spring snow. He would calmly remark that it wouldn’t bother the peas and in fact was helpful. “Poor man’s fertilizer” is what he called it and he always had the earliest and tastiest peas in town.
Poor Man’s Fertilizer
There actually is some truth to this bit of gardening lore. Falling snow absorbs ammonia from the air which breaks down when the sun melts the snow, releasing a small amount of nitric acid into the soil. Since in the spring most of the ground has thawed it is able to absorb the meltwater rather than having it run off. French peasants believed that a spring snow was as beneficial to the garden as a coating of manure and old-time farmers took it a step further, plowing a spring snowfall under to capture all its goodness.
Peas actually don’t need this extra nitrogen boost since as a legume they can take nitrogen directly from the air with the help of nitrogen-fixing bacteria on their roots. You can aid this process by inoculating the seeds with rhizobial bacteria before you plant them. Most garden centers and seed catalogs sell it; just be sure to get the one specifically meant for peas and beans. Don’t worry about sticking each little seed with a needle, you only need to moisten the seeds and roll them in it before planting. Easy-peasy.
What are Snap Peas?
Sugar snap peas are a cross between garden peas and snow peas. (Snow peas are the flat ones.) With snap peas, the whole pod is eaten and has a crunchy texture and very sweet flavor. Remove the “strings” at the end; many snap peas varieties have the strings removed now.
If you are a fan of ‘Sugar Snap’ peas like me, you might have noticed that the seeds have not been growing true to type. The past few years, no matter where I source my seeds from, my plants yield as much as 30% snow peas mixed with the snap peas. Because of this lack of reliable seed stock, many companies have discontinued ‘Sugar Snap’ in favor of other “improved” varieties. Since I am always skeptical of anything claiming to be an improvement, last year I planted half the bed with regular ‘Sugar Snap’ and half with ‘Super Sugar Snap’.
Super Snap Pea Variety
The super variety really was better! The peas were ready to harvest much earlier and delivered a higher yield than the regular ‘Sugar Snap.’ Plus, all the pods were the fat crunchy ones we have come to love. This year it will be all ‘Super Sugar Snap’ for me and maybe I will try ‘Sugar Magnolia’ for a touch of color.
It bears a little later but has purple pods that will look great in a veggie platter or salad and it has lovely two-tone flowers as well.
Better get my shovel ready for the next load of poor man’s fertilizer that is headed my way. The garden should be amazing this year!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/growing-sugar-snap-peas
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image form morningchores.com

      ​GOOD morning.  What a change of weather and it was predicted.  Temperature at 8:00 Am is at 18 degrees, high today of 37 and low of 20 degrees.  You can see sun and clouds today, with snow flurries as said by ALEXA.  Stay warm.  Change is coming and Friday threat of severe weather with heavy rains, high winds, hail, and just nasty weather.  Stay safe. 
 
This advise is all about the plants you get from Becky’s Greenhouse.  Interesting hints, but I really like the Acclimate plants to outdoors.
Transplanting Annuals By National Gardening Association Editors
Annuals — plants that sprout, bloom, set seeds, and die in one growing season -- provide some of the brightest and most reliable colors in the landscape. Often called bedding plants, you can use annuals in containers, flower and vegetable gardens, or any other place you want to introduce some color.
Tools and Materials
Garden fork
Compost or other organic material
Granular fertilizer for flowering plants
Steel rake
Annual flowering plants
Garden trowel
Water source and hose or watering can
Organic mulch, such as pine needles, bark, or seed hulls
Purchase robust seedlings. Choose plants with unopened flower buds instead of those in full bloom. Plants should fill their pots well, have bright green color on their leaves, and show no evidence of insects or disease.
Acclimate plants to outdoors. Give plants grown indoors or in a greenhouse about 7 to 10 days of acclimation to outside wind and sun exposure before planting them directly in the ground. Put the potted plants outdoors in a sheltered spot away from strong wind and direct sun at first. Each day or two, move them to a somewhat more exposed situation. Bring them inside if frost threatens.
 
Plants acclimated at the nursery don't need this treatment and can be planted directly into the garden. (If you get our plants from the outside racks, then you can directly plant in the garden. They are used to the change of weather and all.)
Prepare the planting bed. Loosen the soil with a garden fork and incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic material, such as compost or composted manure, and a complete granular fertilizer, following package recommendations. Rake smooth. Water the garden thoroughly the day before planting to moisten the soil.
Planting time. Water plants a few hours before planting. Meanwhile, determine the amount of space needed between plants by reading the label or catalog. Plants should barely touch when mature.
Scoop a hole in the prepared soil that's slightly larger than the pot size. Slip plants from pots by tipping the pot over your hand and tapping, squeezing, or pressing on the bottom. Do not pull on the stem. Gently untangle any circling roots with your fingers. Set the plant in the hole at the same depth as the plant grew in its pot and spread the roots. Fill the hole and lightly firm the soil around the roots.
Water and mulch. Immediately after planting, water the garden with a gentle spray to settle the soil. Add additional soil around any exposed roots. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch, such as pine needles, shredded bark, or seed hulls, after the plants resume active growth.
Tips
Plant annuals in large blocks of single colors or varieties, instead of single-file rows, for the most dramatic effect.
Pinch the growing tip out of tall-growing plants to encourage branching and shorter growth. This method may result in smaller but more plentiful flowers.
Remove spent flowers -- called deadheading -- to keep annuals blooming throughout the season. Once they set seeds, most annuals stop producing flowers.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/1319/Transplanting-Annuals
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest 

       Good morning, Cooler out this morning, as the temperature is 20 degrees at 8:00 AM partly sunny high of 46 and low again tonight of 21 degrees.  It was a great day to work in the greenhouse, with the sun shining and very warm.  I could work outside which was very enjoyable.  Looks like today will be another fine day.  Enjoy the sun…stay safe. 
​
GARDENING  PLANTS & FLOWERS  PERENNIALS
How to Grow and Care for Iris Flowers  By ERICA PUISIS
 Iris flowers have around 300 varieties in the Iris genus. These famous flowers are available in two main forms: those that grow from rhizomes and those that grow from bulbs. They feature unique blooms that are made up of two different kinds of petals, falls and standards. The falls form the lower petals, which droop downward or fall. The standards are the upper three petals of the flower.
The characteristics of an iris petal further segment the plant into three types: bearded, crested, and beardless. Bearded iris plants have soft hairs along their falls, resembling a beard. The flowers of a crested iris have a ridge-like crest on their falls. Beardless have neither hairs nor crests.
Irises that grow from bulbs include Iris reticulata, Spanish (Iris xiphium) and Dutch varieties (Iris x hollandica) and bloom earlier than the rhizomatous irises. However, most irises show their famous flowers in the early summer, while some also bloom for a second time in the late summer. They are known for attracting butterflies and hummingbirds and make perfect cutting flowers. The iris varies greatly in size, from the smallest dwarf variety, which only grows to 6 inches tall, to the tallest variety which is up to 4 feet tall.
Iris Care
Different species of irises require slightly different methods of and timing for planting. Bulbous irises, which includes Dutch, Spanish, and reticulata irises, are planted in the fall in full sun in well-draining soil.
To plant your bulbs, loosen the soil, then mix in compost and 1/4 cup of all-purpose granular fertilizer according to the directions on the bag. Situate the bulbs 4 to 5 in. deep, depending on the type of bulb. For bearded irises, position rhizomes horizontally in the soil, leaving the top of the rhizome partially exposed. For other varieties, position the crown of the plant 1/2 to 1 in. below the the soil line.
Once flowers are spent, deadhead the blooms. When the whole stalk of flowers is spent, cut the stalk to the ground to direct energy to the roots, instead of forming seed heads. Once the first heavy frost comes or your leaves yellow for the season, you can cut your iris foliage to the ground to prevent iris bores from overwintering in the leaves. However, do not be tempted to remove the foliage before then, as the greenery is still performing photosynthesis, providing the plant with energy necessary for next year’s blooms.
Once the foliage is trimmed back for the winter, be sure to cover the rhizomes with something to help protect them, such as sand or mulch. Remove this in the spring. Irises are a great choice for areas with wildlife as they are deer resistant. Common pests include iris borers. 
Iris flowers with purple, yellow and white petals on clustered stalks in garden
Light
Most iris varieties do best in full sun. Some varieties can tolerate partial shade, but too much shade will prevent them from flowering.
Soil
Rich, well-draining soil is best for iris plants. Though they like moist soil, too much water can be damaging. If you are worried about too much standing water, try planting your irises in raised beds, as this will allow for optimal water drainage. Japanese and Louisiana irises can tolerate moist soil and are excellent for areas near ponds. Siberian irises prefer acidic, moist soil.
Water
Because the iris likes both moisture and well-draining soil, watering consistently and deeply is very important. Just be sure not to overwater, as too much water in the soil can cause problems such as root rot. Though they appreciate consistent water, most iris varieties are drought-resistant and won’t die quickly if they are deprived of water for a short time.
Temperature and Humidity
With its wide range of varieties and growing zones, the iris is a hardy plant that can tolerate fluctuations in temperature and humidity. As long as the soil is well-draining and they get plenty of water and sunshine, these flowers can thrive in a large variety of gardens.  Siberian, Bearded, and Japanese irises typically are hardy in USDA zones 3-9; Iris reticulata and Dutch iris are hardy in zones 5-9; and Louisiana iris prefers zones 6-9.
Fertilizer
Because irises prefer rich soil, compost makes a perfect amendment. Loosening the soil in the spring and adding a healthy layer of compost will help give your irises the nutrients they need to grow healthy and lush.
If you do not have compost, a well-balanced fertilizer for flowers works well. Just beware of too much nitrogen, which can lead to rot. Because some varieties bloom twice, once early in the season and once later in the season, these varieties will appreciate another dose of fertilizer before their second bloom.  
Iris Varieties
Yellow Iris: Also sometimes known as "flag," this variety of beardless iris is highly tolerant of moisture. It is an abundant spreader, which sometimes deters gardeners from planting it. However, it makes a great container flower variety and produces beautiful blooms and bright green foliage.
Louisiana Iris: This iris is native to the U.S. and hardy to zone 6-9. They boast a wide variety of colors and petals that are reminiscent of lilies.
Japanese Iris: The Japanese iris boasts large, broad petals, and a stunning array of colors. This variety also does well with increased soil moisture, making it the perfect choice in areas with high water tables or a greater chance of standing water.
Siberian Iris: The Siberian iris provides smaller, more delicate-looking blooms than many other iris species and adds a beautiful pop of color in the late spring. 
Iris flower with purple and yellow petals in sunlight closeup
 Iris flowers with tall sword-like leaves and yellow petals on thin stems
Propagating Irises
Irises spread underground through rhizomes or bulbs and will need to be divided every 3 to 5 years, creating the perfect opportunity to spread your irises to new landscaping areas. You will know when it is time to divide when you have fewer blooms or there are rhizomes popping out of the ground. Follow these basic steps to propagate iris plants:
Wait for 6 to 8 weeks after your irises have finished blooming. Then, with a garden fork or shovel, slowly work around each plant to loosen the rhizomes or bulbs.
Gently lift the iris out of the ground and shake out the dirt.
Once the dirt is removed you will be able to see the rhizomes or bulbs. You will find smaller rhizomes spreading from the larger mother rhizome. Some may come away naturally while others will need to be cut. Either way, divide these smaller rhizomes and toss any old, shriveled rhizomes.
Once you divide the rhizomes and remove any that are spent or diseased, simply plant the divided iris plants in a new location.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/iris-flowers-growing-guide-5120188
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from SanAntoniExpress.new 

       Good morning….Start of another week.  For us here at the greenhouse, full production of planting.  I need to work to make more room for the newly planted flats to go.  I was a presenter at the NIACC gardening Seminar on Saturday.  We had a great time, and I do believe the group did enjoy my presentation all about gardening.  Again, I love the planting and growing of the plants, but after Saturday talking with the gardeners, I love working with the gardeners and helping them with their gardens.    From talking with the gardeners, I know we are all ready for spring and time to work outside.  I promise you it is coming.  Today will be a good day.  Temperature at 8:30 AM is all ready 32 degrees, mostly sunny, high of 48 and a low of 28 degrees.  Alexa said we will have clouds move in, for mostly cloudy sky.  But not right now.  We are looking at having moisture again on Thursday.  That will make 13 weeks of moisture on Thursday out of 11 weeks.  Cycle is moving along.  Moisture in the form of rain, not snow.  I know some of you have had snow this last week.  Still March in IOWA.  Stay safe.
​
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Peaches  by The Editors
Juicy peaches picked at their peak are pure perfection! From planting peach trees to spring pinching to summer pruning, here is how to grow peaches!
About Peaches
To grow peaches, the trick is to choose a type that will fit with your climate. Peach trees can be grown in USDA Zones 4 to 10, but do especially well in Zones 6 to 8. If you live in one of these latter zones, you can focus on choosing a variety based on its flavor and harvest-time. If you live in colder regions, there are some varieties that are more cold tolerant that you should choose instead.
PLANTING
For the best fruit production, peach trees should be planted in an area that receives full sun all day long. Morning sun is especially crucial because it helps to dry morning dew off the fruit and keeps it from rotting. Be sure to avoid planting in low areas, too, as cold air and frost can more easily settle there and affect the quality of your peaches.
Choose a site with well-drained, moderately fertile soil. Peach trees won’t do well in areas where soil is compacted or remains constantly wet. Soil pH should be on the slightly-acidic side, between 6 and 6.5.
When to Plant Peach Trees
Peach trees should be planted while they’re dormant—typically in late winter or early spring (depending on climate).
In regions where the ground freezes during winter, hold off on planting until the soil has thawed and the ground is no longer waterlogged from snowmelt or heavy spring rains.
It’s best to plant the trees the same day that you get them (if possible) to reduce stress. Potted trees can tolerate not being planted for a little while, but bare-root trees should be planted as soon as possible.
Select a tree that is about 1 year old and has a healthy root system. Older trees tend not to be as productive or vigorous overall.
How to Plant Peach Trees
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using clean shears to cut through the offending roots. (Keep root pruning to a minimum, overall.)
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Tip: Especially for dwarf or semi-dwarf grafted trees, the graft union must be 2 to 3 inches above the soil surface. If it’s any lower, the grafted tree (called the scion) may start to put out its own roots and grow into a standard-size tree.
Do not fertilize at the time of planting.
If you are planting standard-size trees, space them 15 to 20 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 10 to 12 feet apart.
Most types of peach trees are self-fertile, so planting one tree is all that’s needed for fruit production.
An Alternative Planting Method
If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England. It involves planting a peach tree—ideally a dwarf variety—on the south side of the home (or other structure), directly under the eaves. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan-shape against or very near to the wall of the house.
Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to tent. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warmth of the sun—directly and reflected off the house—year round. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects, and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn.
GROWING
About 4 to 6 weeks after the tree blooms, thin the fruit so that they are 6 to 8 inches apart on the branch. If too much fruit is left on the tree, it is likely to be smaller and subpar. Thinning the fruit ensures that the tree will focus energy on the remaining fruit.
Prune and fertilize to encourage 10 to 18 inches of new growth during spring and summer.
Fertilizing
About 6 weeks after planting, fertilize young trees with a balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer.
Tip: Apply fertilizer in a circle around the tree, but keep it at least 18 inches away from the trunk. This encourages the roots to spread outward, rather than in on themselves.
During the second year, add 3/4 pound of nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring and once in the early summer.
After the third year, add about 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer per year to the mature trees in the spring.
To help make the tree hardier, do not fertilize it within 2 months of the first fall frost date or while the fruit is maturing. Fertilizer should only be applied between spring and mid-summer.
Pinching Peach Trees in Spring
In the spring (often April), pinch your off the tips of new branches so the tree will make side branches and be shaped nicely and your fruit will be within reach. Otherwise, the branches will keep growing long and straight without side branching.
For pinching, you can easily use your fingers to snap off tips by hand. Just pinch off the tip of a new branch just above a bud. Choose buds a distance of 1 to 2 feet from where the branch begins from a larger branch. Then your tree will grow out buds just below the pinched bud to make side branches.
 Pruning Peach Trees in Summer
Pruning in the summer can NOT be avoided. If left unpruned, peach trees weaken, may become diseased, and bear less fruit year after year. Peaches bloom and bear fruit on second-year wood; therefore, the trees need to make good growth each spring and summer for lots of fruit!
The goal is to keep peach trees small, no more than six to ten feet tall. In general, you will be 1) cutting out any branches at the top from getting too high so the fruit is reachable and 2) cutting out side branches so that enough light is getting to lower branches for flower and fruit development.
In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds so the tree doesn’t grow too tall. Then, remove some branches from the center. Look for three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, then cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches.
 In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
You may need to prune a couple times a summer. The first time you prune is when the tree has put on about two feet of new branches. This can happen as early as May or it may not even happen at all (in which case you don’t need to prune or it may harm the tree because some shade from leaves is important to avoid sun scald).
NOTE: Summer pruning is NOT the time for any dramatic cutting. This is done in late winter when the tree is dormant.
Taken from  https://www.almanac.com/plant/peaches
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from webstockreview.net 

     Good morning.  Temperature is 25 degrees with a clear, blue sky.  This is at 7:36 AM  Sorry didn’t post yesterday working in the greenhouse.  I want to take the time to wish our mother Addie Bechtel Kerndt a birthday on March 23.  She was born in 1908.  She gave us in the family lots of memories, and was a source of who we are today.  Happy Birthday MOM

I am just going to tell you that I have been awake since 4 AM.  I worked a full day of planting all ready.  I had to decide what all of us are going to plant.  There will be 4 of us planting today.  I had to decide what to plant them in “ the size of the container”  if it is a 4 pack, single then will it be in a 3”, 4” or 4 ½” pot.  Does it make a nice basket?  Then where will we put the plants in the greenhouse.  So got that decided for today.  I make up planting sheets with all of this information ( which I still need to do).  We are in full production of planting, and you would say that too when you see all the plug trays to be planted. 

Sun is shining so the greenhouse will warm up quickly.  We will open up doors to keep it comfortable.  Without opening the doors 100 degrees would be the temperature.  TOO warm to plant for sure, and the young plants don’t like it that warm.  Might have to start the fans to help keep it cooler.

I do all the watering at this stage.  That is daily on the list 7 days a week.  I grew up help milking cows, so feel this is what I am doing with the greenhouse.  

Tomorrow I am a presenter at the NIACC gardening seminar. Gardening and YOU…  Also we will be setting up a table for Market place.  It will be great to see the gardeners and all will be excited about planting and SPRING. 
​
With all to do, I am making this short but ending with this poem.
The gardener doesn’t mind the rain,
The gardener doesn’t mind the pain.
And even when the weather’s hot,
She’d rather work outside than not.
Even weeding has its pleasure.
Making room for floral treasures.
The gardener doesn’t count time lost:
She only minds an early frost.
Alma Ruth, American poet 1928
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

Pinterest.com 

​Good morning…whoops it is noon already.  Temperature is 31 with possible cloudy skies with a high of 42 degrees, low tonight of 24 degrees.  We received 2 inches of snow over night and we surprised we got that much.  The roads, blacktop areas are melting but we have white ground.  It would have been my mother’s birthday, and on this date we have more snow than not, so not surprised. Happy Heavenly birthday to you mom. 
 
I am posting about tulips and not in the planting as much as the care this spring with them.  You will find it interesting what to do after they have bloomed.  I promise soon we will see the tulips and daffodils blooming. 
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Tulips  by Catherine Boeckmann
Long live the tulip! These beautiful jewels brighten our days in spring. We truly look forward to seeing those blue-green leaves start to emerge as the earth awakens from its winter sleep! Here are our tips on how to care for tulips.
About Tulips
Tulips normally begin emerging from the ground in late winter or early spring. If unseasonably mild weather causes premature growth in winter, the danger is not as great as it may seem. Tulips (and daffodils, too) are quite cold tolerant. If freezing winter temperatures return, it may delay growth, however. Snow is actually helpful in this case, as it can insulate the foliage from extreme cold.
Plant in the Fall for Spring Blooms!
Tulip bulbs are planted in the autumn before the ground freezes. By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors and most are excellent for use as cut flowers, too.
Tulip flowers are usually cup-shaped with three petals and three sepals. There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders. The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet. One tulip grows on each stem, with two to six broad leaves per plant.
Are Tulips Annual or Perennial Bulbs?
Although tulips are technically a perennial, many centuries of hybridizing means that the bulb’s ability to come back year after year has weakened. Therefore, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in the western mountainous regions of the U.S. come closest to this climate, and may have more success perennializing their tulips.
GROWING
If it rains weekly, do not water. However, if there is a dry spell and it does not rain, you should water the bulbs weekly until the ground freezes.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed unless in a drought. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or any other rough material to the soil to foster swift drainage.
Apply compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
In the spring, when leaves emerge, feed your tulip the same bulb food or bone meal which you used at planting time. Water well.
Deadhead tulips as soon as they go by, but do not remove the leaves!
Allow the leaves to remain on the plants for about 6 weeks after flowering. The tulips need their foliage to gather energy for next year’s blooms! After the foliage turns yellow and dies back, it can be pruned off.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
WIT AND WISDOM
Did you know: If you dig up a tulip bulb in late summer, it’s probably not the same bulb you planted last fall. It’s her daughter. Even while the tulip is blossoming, the bulb is dividing for the next generation.
To get the longest vase life, cut tulip stems diagonally, then wrap the upper two-thirds of the flowers in a funnel of newspaper and stand them in cool water for an hour or two. Then, recut the stems and the tulips will last at least a week.
In 17th-century Holland, the new tulip was such the rage and fashion that a handful of bulbs was worth about $44,000.
Red tulips symbolize a declaration of love.
Taken https://www.almanac.com/plant/tulips
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse,Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest...Happy dance about the weather today.  

       Good morning and it is.  Blue, clear sky with temperature now wait for it.  43 degrees. High today 56, low of 40.  Alexa said we can expect lots of clouds, but not right now at 10:00 AM.  Enjoy the day.  Stay safe. 
 
Can I plant this plant here?  Is often asked of me.  I look at the information and see what zone it is.  We are in zone 5 but some zone 5 plants will not winter over.  They will grow like an annual but not survive our winter.  Here is information on planting zones. 
Get in the Zone: Two Truths (and a Lie) about Zone Maps
How-to, Planning and Design, Planting Tips
Have you ever returned from a trip, determined to recreate that tropical vacation vibe in your northern backyard? Or maybe you hope to grow lilacs, like those that filled the vase on your grandmother’s kitchen table—but aren’t sure they’ll flourish in your southern garden. While it’s easy to drool over the latest, greatest plants featured in magazines, catalogs and websites, how do you know which plants will thrive in your area—and which ones will struggle to live up to your expectations?
What’s a Hardiness Zone Map?
You’ve probably heard about a plant’s hardiness zone—but what exactly does that mean? And how do you determine your gardening zone? A hardiness zone refers to a geographic area with a certain average minimum temperature, a factor that predicts the survival of many plants. Growers typically include a plant’s hardiness zone on the plant’s tag, as well as listing its hardiness zone on the company’s website or in catalogs.
But how do you know the hardiness zone for where you garden? The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (PHZM) shows the 13 hardiness zones throughout the United States (zones 12 and 13 are relatively new additions for Puerto Rico and Hawaii), broken into subzones—for instance, zones 7a and 7b. Data is collected for a 30-year period from 7,983 temperature stations to create the hardiness zone map. The data is reviewed by a team of climatologists, agricultural meteorologists, and horticultural experts, double-checking the data for errors or biases. There’s a lot of science and expertise behind a map we often take for granted. By entering your zip code here, you’ll find your hardiness zone.
Easy peasy, right?
But is your hardiness zone absolute? Are there any factors that might make it hotter or colder than indicated on the USDA PHZM—and can you cheat the system, by adding plants outside your zone? And if you abide by the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, are your plants guaranteed to grow and flourish?
To answer these questions, let’s play a little game called “Two Truths and a Lie”—about hardiness zones! Read each statement, make your guess, and then find out if it’s a truth or a lie regarding hardiness zones.
Truth or Lie? A Hardiness Zone May Contain Hotter or Colder Areas Within It
Based on the average annual extreme minimum temperatures during a 30-year period in the past—not just the lowest temperature—hardiness zones provide a good indicator for plant survival. However, in every hardiness zone, hotter or colder temperatures may appear, meaning that plants listed for other zones might grow well within these areas.
Higher and lower temperatures in a zone
Areas within zones can sport higher or lower temperatures, along with “microclimates” that can be found in individual gardens. For instance, cities tend to be slightly warmer than the surrounding zone, as they hold more heat due to the large amounts of blacktop and concrete. A city might even be listed as a warmer zone than the surrounding countryside. Likewise, higher elevations tend to be colder than surrounding lower-lying areas, so the top of a mountain may be a colder zone than the town just below it.
Large bodies of water can change the zone
Even large, unfrozen bodies of water can impact an area’s hardiness zone. Areas adjacent to bodies of water stay a bit warmer in winter and cooler in summer because water moderates the air temperatures.
Along with zone deviations within a region, you might find microclimates in your garden—pockets that are warmer or cooler than the general zone for your area or the rest of your yard.
Beginner Tip for the New Gardener
A microclimate is an area with fine-scale climate variations, like a warmer pocket caused by nearby blacktop and concrete, or a cooler spot in a hill or valley. An entire yard can be slightly warmer or cooler than the surrounding area because it is sheltered or enclosed. Microclimates can also differ from the surrounding area in terms of light exposure, moisture levels, wind, and soil.
Tropical Plants by a wall is a warmer microclimate - National Garden Buurea
A sheltered area in front of a south-facing wall or a low spot where cold air collects—these microclimates offer you the chance to “push” your zone a bit. Zone pushing is an effort to grow plants in your garden that shouldn’t survive in your climate based on their hardiness zone.
However, if you’re dying to grow a crape myrtle in your zone 5 garden, finding the warmest microclimate might yield a happy payout for your gamble. But just like throwing the dice at the craps table, zone pushing requires strong nerves, because not all gambles win. (Still, it’s a sweet reward when they do!)
So, if you guessed that hardiness zones can vary in temperature, you’re correct!
Beginner Tip for the New Gardener
When determining microclimates in your garden, look for areas that are slightly different than the surrounding landscape. Cold air pools in depressions, making low-lying areas of a yard colder than level areas. Areas next to houses or other buildings tend to be slightly warmer, as the structures absorb heat during the day and radiate it back out at night. Walls, driveways, and patios also absorb heat, making the spaces near them slightly warmer.
Truth or Lie? It’s OK to Ignore Hardiness Zones
If you’re dying to create a tropical staycation on your patio but live in zone 3a, don’t fret: you can enjoy lush, lovely foliage and fabulous flowers in your serene space by breaking the hardiness zone rules.
Out-of-zone goodies
Before you load your cart with out-of-zone goodies, however, make sure you’ve thought through your gardening goals. If you’re OK treating warm-zone plants as annuals in your cold-zone garden, load up! Enjoy a summer-long treat of a gorgeous, tropical oasis. Just keep in mind that those lovelies will most likely be a “one-and-done.” It’s a rare tropical plant that survives grown in-ground where low temperatures average -40 degrees in winter.
Treat as annuals
If you’re enamored with plants that aren’t hardy in your zone, enjoy them as annuals. Or, if you’re looking to add plants that are just slightly outside your zone—maybe a 6b plant in a 7a garden—take advantage of your garden’s microclimates. Positioning plants in sheltered spots or areas with radiant warmth may help a “zone-pushed” plant survive and thrive.
Grow out-of-zone plants in containers
Growing out-of-zone plants in containers seems like an easy way to enjoy your favorites without fuss. And, if you own a greenhouse or can provide warm shelter over winter for the containers, your plants may continue to thrive for years. However, many gardeners don’t realize that soil in pots typically drops to the same temperature as the surrounding air, while in-ground plants benefit from “bottom heat”—the geothermal heat below the soil. The temperature of the ground soil just a few inches deep can be more than 20 degrees warmer than the air temperature on a blustery, cold day. So, the roots of potted plants are less protected from cold than you might expect. Make sure to place container-grown, out-of-zone plants in a warm, sheltered spot over winter to help them survive.
If you’re a risk-taker, an eternal optimist, or you’re willing to spend your gardening budget on perennials that act like annuals in your zone, then yes: it’s OK to ignore hardiness zones!
Newer cultivars for other hardiness zones
Or, if you’re giddy for gardenias or crazy for camellias, look for newer cultivars developed for colder zones. Plant breeders continuously strive to push zones, creating hardy plants that flourish outside of their traditionally grown regions. While most gardenias, for example, are known for hardiness in zones 8-11, newer introductions push the border to zones 6 and 7.
And, for plants that typically need a long winter chill to bloom beautifully, like lilacs, newer cultivars are developed that thrive in warmer zones. If there’s a plant you covet, you just might find a new, hardy solution to your wishes!
National Garden Bureau Expert Tips
Do you know that National Garden Bureau members include the very best plant breeders and growers, who develop a wide range of cultivars that can push zones for traditionally grown plants? Newer cultivars may be bred for better cold or heat tolerance, allowing you to grow plants in your zone that previously weren’t an option due to extreme cold or heat. Thank goodness for our brilliant members!
Truth or Lie? All Plants Listed for My Hardiness Zone Will Grow Perfectly in My Garden
You’ve made a list, checked it twice…and limited your plant selections to those perfect for your hardiness zone. Your garden is guaranteed to grow beautifully, right?
Well…
Remember that hardiness zones are based on the average annual extreme minimum temperatures, not the coldest. And even plants perfectly defined for your hardiness zone can be injured by a sudden bout of extremely cold weather in fall before going dormant. Or a heat wave in mid-winter that tricks plants into breaking dormancy, followed by normal seasonably cold weather. Extreme, unusual temperatures make gardening a challenge, even when you play by the hardiness zone rules.
Many factors affect the success of your plants
Even without temperature fluctuations, many other factors contribute to the success or demise of plants. Wind, soil quality, moisture, pollution, humidity, light, competing plants—all of these environmental factors contribute to your garden’s success.
Knowing your garden = success!
The reality is: no hardiness zone map can take the place of knowing your garden—its microclimates, soil challenges, wind breaks, radiant heat, and competing plants. Hardiness zone maps provide a perfect start to help you make good plant selections, but hands-on experience gives you the best knowledge of what will survive—and thrive—in your garden.
Taken from https://ngb.org/zone-hardiness/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  

image from wallpaperaccess.com 

​Good morning, we have wispy clouds up high in the sky, but I would say mostly clear right now. Temperature at 30 at 8:15AM with a high today of 54. I will have to see if we get that warm here in NC Iowa.  Low tonight of 30.  This is the first day of Spring, and I do believe it is going to feel like it.  ENJOY
 
Now these signs I like to see because nature is going to be on the mark when Spring starts. 
5 Signs of Spring: Birds, Peepers, Tree Buds, and More
Every year, we patiently look for the first signs of spring—leaves budding, birds singing, and butterflies migrating. Even if it’s still winter and the ground is covered in snow, observe closely! There are always subtle signs that spring is on the way. For example:
1. Birds are singing!
Backyard birds are one of the best predictors. There is a weather proverb that states, “Bluebirds are a sign of spring; warm weather and gentle south breezes they bring,” and this appears to be true in the northern tier of the United States. Bluebirds do not come north until all chance of winter has passed and they are assured an ample food supply.
We started hearing bird song in mid-February from chickadees, titmice, and red-winged blackbirds. The cardinals sing their “cheer, cheer, cheer” to say that we are turning a corner.
 
Many migrating birds are arriving as many as two weeks earlier compared to decades past (and some never leave!).
As the days gradually become lighter and temperatures start to lift, the chorus will become louder. In March, a chorus of birdsong fills the air as the migrating birds return. Warblers, sparrows, yellowthroat, and finch are more favorites. You may hear the knock of woodpeckers, too! Even ducks start to return to our lakes.
2. Trees are budding, sap is flowing!
Observe the buds on your trees. Some of the first trees to bud are the willows and silver maples, followed in March with the red maples.  Another sign is the flowing sap. The sugar sheds are firing up in New Hampshire!Mmm … there’s nothing like the taste of maple syrup, liquid gold! The first to notice seem to be the squirrels, who start poking around the trees looking for oozing sap.
3. Peepers are peeping
As soon as the ponds and wetlands thaw—as early as mid-March—listen for the spring peppers (Pseudacris crucifer) and the western chorus frog (Pseudacris triseriata). These tiny amphibians sing loudly, creating quite a chorus at dusk!
Like its name, the spring peeper tends to call a high single “peep!” Put all those spring peepers together and it’s a “peep, peep, peep, peep!” The call of the chorus frog is hard to describe. It sounds a little bit like someone is running their thumb along a comb.
These tiny frogs live beneath logs or underground and are freeze-tolerant, and tend to like moist, wooded areas, ponds, and wetlands.
As they emerge from hibernation and begin to spawn, look for the appearance of small jelly-like egg masses. While it may seem like there are an overabundance of tadpoles, most (up to 90%) do not survive do to predators.
4. Fresh, soft scents
Ever notice that entrancing smell of spring? The Earth is awakening and it does indeed smell more, well, earthy. With warmer weather, misty mornings and soft wet smells fill the air.
 
5. Butterflies and Bumblebees Return
As warmer weather returns, you may start to see butterflies and bumblebees return. Both are pollination wizards.
To encourage butterflies to reside in your garden, it’s best to include food sources in the form of host plants for caterpillars and nectar plants for butterflies. See our article on plants which attract butterflies to the garden.
We adore the slow, fat, gentle bumbles. The first bumblebees are the queens who survived the winter months. If you wish to attract butterflies and butterflies, be sure to have available flowers and plants.
What are the first signs of spring in your neck of the woods?
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/5-signs-spring-birds-peepers-and-tree-buds
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from pinterset.com 

      ​Happy St. Patrick’s Day!  Always a fun holiday when you live in an Irish community.  For this one day, I go by Becky O’Litterer.
IT is cold out there today.  The wind sounded awful last night blowing they said up to 50 mph.  Everything is fine this morning, but you always look around and see that it is.  Temperature at 9:30 AM is at 14 degrees clear, sky.  Cloudy sky with a high of 27 degrees and a low tonight of 7 degrees.  I know you all were ready for spring, but it is still the middle of March here in IOWA.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
Planting Peas, which I learned this season you can plant Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature: Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up.
Snow will not hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens might. Be prepared to plant again, if the first peas don’t make it. This I didn’t know.  BUT the secret here is if the garden itself is ready to plant and not too wet.  When do you put your peas in? 
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Peas  by The Editors
The sweet taste of glorious garden-grown peas is nothing like what you find in grocery stores. They are nature’s candy off the vine! Peas are one of the season’s first crops, planted as soon as the ground can be worked, even if snow falls afterwards. See our tips on growing peas, from sowing to harvest!
About Peas
Peas are very easy to grow but their growing period is very limited. It’s important to plant them early enough in spring so they mature while the weather is still cool. (This means planting in February, March, or April in most parts of the United States and Canada.) However, they can also be grown as a fall or winter crop in warmer regions.
Peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy their taste as soon as you can! Those peas in grocery stores are often starchy in taste which you’ll find has no comparison to garden-fresh peas.
Three varieties of peas suit most garden and culinary needs:
Sweet peas, aka garden peas or English peas (Pisum sativum ssp. sativum), have inedible pods from which the seeds (peas) are taken.
Snow peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon) produce edible, flat, stringless pods containing small peas.
Snap peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon ser. cv.) produce thick, edible pods containing large/full-size peas.
Great planting companions for peas include: Chives, Mint, Alyssum, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish, Turnip and Beans. Learn more about Companion Planting.
PLANTING
Select a sunny location and well-draining soil. Although peas can grow in part shade, they won’t be as sweet or productive as those grown in full sun. Prepare the soil, preferable in the fall, mixing in aged manure and/or compost, and much well. Peas like well-draining soil.
When to Plant Peas
Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature: Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up.
Snow will not hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens might. Be prepared to plant again, if the first peas don’t make it. Alternatively, try starting your peas in a cold frame.
A second round of peas can be planted in the late summer or early fall, approximately 6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost date.
Here are some more tips on when to start planting peas.
How to Plant Peas
Peas are best direct-seeded right in the ground and do not like their roots disturbed. But transplanting is possible, if you start seeds in biodegradable pots; you’ll transplant the pot and all into the garden and the pot will disintegrate.
Where spring is long and wet, plant seeds in raised garden beds.
To speed germination, soak seeds in water overnight before planting.
Sow seeds 1 inch deep (slightly deeper if soil is dry) and about 2 inches apart. Do not thin.
Plant rows 7 inches apart.
In terms of crop rotation, do not plant peas in the same place more than once every 4 years.
Pea roots, like those of other legumes, fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants.
In terms of fertilizer, peas need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen will encourage foliage growth instead of flowers or pods. Learn more about soil amendments.
Bush peas can reach 18 to 30 inches tall.  Pole types can grow at least 4 to 6 feet tall. Both types benefit from support (especially bush peas above 2 feet and all pole peas). Install thin tree branches or twiggy sticks (pea sticks), trellises, chicken wire, strings, or netting before plants establish their shallow roots. See instructions on how to build trellises and supports for peas.
Water to keep the soil moist. If seeds wash out of the soil, poke them back into it.
GROWING
Water peas sparsely with no more than 1 inch per week, unless plants are wilting. We don’t want to encourage pea rot. But also do not let the plants dry out. If this happens, no pods will be produced.
Gently remove intrusive weeds by hand. If necessary, hoe or cultivate, but do so very carefully to avoid disturbing peas’ shallow, fragile roots.
Pea leaves turn yellow for several reasons. Often, this is due to the stress of hot weather. Provide partial shade (e.g., row covers) during the hottest time of day and water properly.
Fertilizing plants is not usually required if the plants are mulched deeply with grass clippings, shredded leaves, or another biodegradable material.
HARVESTING
How do you know when peas are ready to be picked?
Most varieties of peas are ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting. Peas mature quickly, so check daily once you see the flowers in bloom.
Pick snow peas when the delicate pods begin to show immature seeds inside.
Gather snap peas when the pods become plump, yet are still glossy and filled with sweet-tasting peas.
Pick shell peas before the pods become waxy.
How to Harvest Peas
Harvest peas in the morning after the dew has dried. They are crispiest then.
Harvest regularly to encourage more pods to develop.
Use two hands when you pick peas to avoid damaging the plant. Hold the vine with one hand and pull pods off with the other.
Peas are at the peak of flavor immediately after harvest.
Pea pods that have hardened or turned a dull color are over mature. Mature plants usually stop producing and die back in hot summer weather.
If you missed your peas’ peak period, you can still pick, dry, and shell them for use in winter soups.
How to Store Peas
Store peas in the refrigerator for about 5 days: Place in paper bags, then wrap in plastic.
Or, freeze peas: Shell sweet peas, blanch, immerse in cold water, drain, and pack in sealed containers.
De-string/trim snow or snap peas and prepare as above.
WIT AND WISDOM
If a girl finds nine peas in a pod, the next bachelor she meets will become her husband.
According to folklore, St. Patrick’s Day is the traditional day for planting peas (in many regions).
Legend has it that the phrase “green thumb” originated during the reign of King Edward I of England, who was fond of green peas and kept six serfs shelling them during the season. The serf who had the greenest thumb won a prize!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/peas till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365