image from FunkyJunk.interiors

      ​     I had a question asked when to prune hydrangeas?  Here is information about that but you will need to know what kind you have.  I would play it safe and just let it grow this spring and then identify with the blooms this season then you know when to prune.  Good luck with handling hydrangeas.  ALSO say healthy and safe.
 
When and How Should Hydrangeas Be Pruned?  By Robin Sweetser
 
Hydrangeas can sometimes be a tricky plant to care for, so it is important to learn when to prune different hydrangea varieties, as well as how to prune them. Consult our handy cheat sheet to figure out the best time to prune yours.
 
Properly pruning hydrangeas based on your hydrangea’s type will allow you to have more blooms next year. However, before you start pruning, it’s important to figure out which type of hydrangea you have. If you prune at the wrong time, you could be cutting off next year’s blooms!
 
Hydrangea Pruning Cheat Sheet
Use this table to determine when to best prune the hydrangeas in your garden. Some types should be pruned in late winter, while others should be left alone until after they bloom in the summer.
 
Hydrangea Type
When to Prune
Where Flowers Appear
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) Summer, after flowering On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) Summer, after flowering On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata) Late winter, before spring growth On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens) Late winter, before spring growth On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata) Summer, after flowering On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) Summer, after flowering On old growth
 
Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
Even though I’m located in Zone 5, my ‘Endless Summer’ mophead hydrangea—which usually has huge blue blossoms all summer long—was killed to the ground. Luckily, it has the wonderful ability to bloom on both old and new wood, so even though they were a bit later than usual, there were still many blooms.
 
My other blue hydrangea is a lacecap-type, called ‘Let’s Dance Starlight’, but instead of the huge, mophead-type of flower cluster that ‘Endless Summer’ has, the lacecap hydrangea bears a flat blossom made up of many small, fertile flowers surrounded by a few showy, sterile flowers. It is also hardy to Zone 5 and blooms on both old and new wood.
 
Both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are considered bigleaf or macrophylla hydrangeas, so they can be pruned right after flowering by cutting back the flowering shoots to the next bud. If you have older plants that aren’t blooming well, you can cut up to a third of the stems off at the base in late summer to encourage new growth.
 
Panicle Hydrangeas (H. paniculata)
The hydrangeas grown most often in New England gardens are the panicle-types, since they are not only beautiful, but also very hardy, surviving Zone 3 winters with no problems. One of the oldest and most reliable favorites is ‘Grandiflora’, also known as Pee Gee hydrangea. Native to China and Japan, it was the first Asian hydrangea cultivar introduced to the United States, in 1862. They were a big hit during the Victorian era. The flowers start out a creamy white and turn a rosy pink as they age. They can be dried and look lovely in a winter arrangement. Find out how to dry these lovely hydrangeas here.
 
There are many panicle-types to choose from. I have one called ‘Pinky Winky’ that has long, cone-shaped white and pink flowers, and also ‘Vanilla Strawberry’, which has panicles that color from white at the tip to pink in the middle and red at the base. For something different, try ‘Limelight,’ which has chartreuse flowers that gradually turn pink in autumn.
Panicle-type hydrangeas should be pruned in late winter to keep them from becoming overgrown.
 
Smooth hydrangeas are North American natives, originally found growing wild in Pennsylvania. They tolerate light shade, begin to bloom in June, and continue to blossom until fall. Their white flowers are round and can reach 12 inches in diameter.
 
The popular cultivar ‘Annabelle’ grows to be 3-5 feet tall and can be used to light up a shady path or as a mass planting at the edge of the woods. It is hardy to Zone 3.
 
Smooth hydrangeas can be pruned back to the ground in the fall or early spring.
 
Also called swamp snowball, it is hardy to zone 5 and though it prefers full sun, it can take some shade and still blossom well. It blooms a little later than the other hydrangeas, beginning in August. Its flowers are large panicles that start out white and turn dark pink as they age. The leaves, which are deeply lobed like an oak leaf, turn a rich maroon red in the fall.
 
Oak-leaf hydrangeas don’t need a lot of pruning, but if you want to tidy yours up, prune out the dead stems at the base in early spring.
 
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/when-prune-different-kinds-hydrangeas
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

Not the usually succulent picture.  Look closely this leaf was just on top of the dirt and growing little ones from that.  This makes you know that there is faith in new growth.  

Repotted succulents and looking good

If you can see these succulents are really growing well.

These succulents just came in, so will need to be planted.  300 of these

     ​     So start of another week.  Another week of this virus and staying home.  Hope all of you are well and keeping busy with this new way of life for awhile it looks like.  I haven't told you but I have been repotting succulents since the end of January.  I am a little tired of doing that but when I look at the results it is so worth it.  The aloe vera plants were brown but with repotting them they have turned to a beautiful green.  I am posting pictures of some of the succulents I repotted.  You can see I have more new plants to plant these trays hold 300 succulents. That is what we are doing.  PLANTING.  Stay healthy and safe.  Becky
 
Succulents are popular for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
 
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, stems, or roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world from Africa to the deserts of North America.
 
Fortunately, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
 
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
 
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar among the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents.
 Southern Light 
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight; the leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed.
 
On the other hand, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etiolation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
 
Temperatures for Growing Succulents 
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. In the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 F. Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 and 55 F.
 
Watering Succulents 
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater.
 
During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month.
 
Warning
Overwatering and ensuing plant rot are the most common causes of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system.
 
A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
 
 Choosing Potting Soil and Fertilizer 
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's specifically designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent such as perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.  ( I don't use a special potting mixture but I just use what I plant all my plants in.  The difference it isn't potting soil but potting mixture which has more perlite and peat moss in it all ready.) 
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/grow-healthy-succulent-plants-1902806
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from stories.rbge.org.uk

      ​    So soon you can plant lettuce.  If you need some seeds, we have a wide selection of bulk lettuce seed.  It has been tested and it will geraminated.  Call me 641-794-3337, email at beckmall@netins.net and we can arrange a curb side purchase.  I am over in the greenhouse all the time planting so no problem to help you with your gardening needs. We have seed potatoes and onion sets that can be planted soon.  Cabbage is growing as is the broccoli.  They will be more ready when the ground is ready is a couple of weeks.  I will post a list of the lettuce soon on this blog.  Stay healthy.  Becky
 
Growing your own salad greens will put a world of fresh ingredients at your fingertips. Whether you are a gourmet salad lover who likes to experiment with interesting greens or someone who just wants to have your own homegrown lettuce, your choices are only limited by the seeds you can find and the space you have.
 
Types of Salad Greens
We always think of spinach and lettuce as the main spring greens, but there are many more to choose from. Look to the east—Asian greens such as napa cabbage, tatsoi, pac choi (or “bok choy”), mibuna, santoh, and hon tsai tai are especially suited to growing in cool spring weather. If you have never tasted any of these greens, then you are in for a treat. Some are hot and spicy, while others are quite mild. They can be eaten raw or cooked and will add flavor to any salad or stir-fry.
 
Depending on your taste buds, you can grow mild, tender greens like claytonia, chard, and mache, or bitter greens like endive, escarole, and radicchio. If you want to add a peppery tang to your salads, try mustard, mizuna, broadleaf cress, or arugula.
 
Lettuce is the obvious choice for a salad garden and there are many spring lettuces to choose from. Try a delicate butterhead, tasty heirloom crisphead, or colorful leaf lettuce. Plant them as soon as the ground can be worked. Lettuce seeds will germinate in soil as cold as 40°F (5°C).
 
There are ready-made salad mixes that offer a wide variety of textures, colors, and flavors. Look for mesclun or misticanza mixes, or make up your own custom blend using seeds for your family’s favorite greens. Lettuces and greens that will continue to grow after being given a haircut are called “cut-and-come-again” in many catalogs.
 
Growing and Harvesting Salad Greens
The key to having perfect greens is to grow them under row covers, which help to keep them relatively clean and bug-free.
 
Many row covers are made from spun-bonded polypropylene, a material that is light-, water-, and air-permeable, and very lightweight. Most allow 70%-90% light transmission. Covers help to moderate temperature and give a few degrees of frost protection, too. They can be supported by wire hoops or just laid over the plants and held in place with rocks and soil. Unlike plastic, this breathable material won’t cook your plants on a hot sunny day.
 
To keep a continuous supply of greens, plant a small section of the bed every two weeks. Cover the seeds lightly with soil and tamp down. Keeping the seedbed moist while the seeds are germinating is important and the row covers will help to keep moisture in. Greens are mostly water and will suffer a setback if allowed to wilt. When the plants emerge, keep the row covers in place and well-anchored on all sides. Only remove them when harvesting. This is a very effective way to foil flea beetles, the bane of the early spring garden. Tiny, black hopping specks no more than 2mm long, they will leave your lettuce riddled with small holes.
 
To pick your greens, carefully shear the young plants with scissors, leaving the growing center of the plant intact. Water and lightly fertilize the plants, cover them up with the row cover, and in no time at all, they will regrow and be ready for another harvest.
 
If you don’t have a lot of room, try growing salad greens in a pallet garden (pictured above). Wrap landscape fabric around the back and sides of a wooden pallet, then fill the openings with soil and plant your seeds or starter plants. When the plants have taken root and begun to grow, simply stand the pallet upright in a sunny location.
 
Turn just a small part of your backyard into a salad-lover’s dream garden and soon you’ll be harvesting a bounty of flavorful greens.
 
About This Blog
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/how-grow-your-own-salad-greens
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from PBSLearningMedia

       ​I am going to post this right away this morning, and then later tonight I will post again what I am doing in the greenhouse.  This might give you some ideas of meals to fix while we are home all the time.  Hope all of you are well, safe and healthy.  Becky
 
Some ideas for meals now that you are home all the time....
by Margaret Boyles 
 
As of this writing, one in three families are at home. It’s an uncertain period of self-quarantine and physical distancing (staying six feet from another person or persons.)
 
So you’re not going out. Perhaps you’ve eaten all the fresh salad greens, broccoli, eggs, fresh meat, poultry, and fish. Perhaps your area doesn’t offer food-delivery services.
 
Maybe you’ve been creeping out to shop in the early morning, hoping to get in and out without encountering many others, but you’ve found limited supplies of most of the items on your list.
 Instead, you hastily pick up some canned and frozen foods you’ve never tried.  (When it comes to COVID-19, see a few food safety precautions.)
 
Or maybe, like us, you’ve decide to stay in a while longer and manage with what you still have on hand.
 
So, what to cook? 10 Simple Recipes
My siblings and I grew up with frugal parents who’d lived through both the Great Depression and World War II. They brought a lot of the family menus of their day to our family table. I’ll share some here.
 
(Apologies for the New England bias here; you can probably find similar family recipes from your own region.)
1.Welsh rabbit (rarebit): Cheddar cheese sauce with a dash of Worcestershire sauce over toast or saltines.
2.Tuna wiggle: Cheese sauce with canned tuna and fresh or canned peas over crackers or toast.
3.Mac and cheese: Of course! Many variations. Ours was pretty simple. Small elbow noodles mixed with a thick cheese sauce
4.Succotash: Shell beans and sweet corn—our local version of succotash— was my dad’s favorite food. We had a big garden, and did lots of home canning.You could easily replicate it by mixing a can of shell beans with a can or frozen package of corn. Salt and pepper to taste.
5.American chop suey: This stovetop dish of ambiguous origin generally combines ground beef sauteed with a chopped onion (and maybe a green pepper), some kind of cooked pasta, and a well-seasoned tomato sauce.
6.Scalloped potatoes: Our family dish featured unpeeled potatoes sliced thin (not peeled) tossed with a handful of flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, then added to a baking dish in layers, topping each layer with a cheesy sauce. Bake at 350° until potatoes get soft and brown on top and around the edges.
7.Pea soup: Extremely simple: Split green or yellow peas, mixed with sauteed diced carrot, onion, maybe a stalk of celery, then simmered—often with a meaty ham or shoulder bone—on low heat until thick; salt and pepper to taste. Note: If you’re new to pea soup, watch for allergies.
8.Meat loaf: Ours usually contained half hamburger, half other ingredients: e.g., bread crumbs or half a cup of rolled oats, a chopped onion, an egg, a grated carrot/beet/potato, or leftover cooked vegetables. You can find many vegetarian/vegan options on the web.
9.Clam chowder: Our recipe called for diced potatoes and onions—sauteed until tender—a can or two of clams with juice, and enough milk to serve everyone a full bowl. Sometimes, mom made a roux to thicken the milk. She seasoned the chowder with salt and pepper before serving.
10.Sausage and White Beans:  Drain can of cannelloni beans but keep half liquid. Brown sausage in oil; Cook half bean liquid and garlic, onions, canned tomatoes, some herbs for five minutes. Add beans and a can of tomato paste, and simmer a little longer.
 
A few hot (and cold) tips
1.While stores near you may lack fresh vegetables, meat and poultry, most of them, especially convenience stores in rural areas, will still have eggs and milk. The local hens keep laying eggs, and the cows keep giving milk.
2.Around here at least, even convenience stores usually sell fresh bananas. They’re cheap and nutritious. Peel and eat, whirl into a banana and peanut butter smoothie, use in a simple dessert, or freeze them. Freeze bananas? Yes! Peel and freeze in chunks or slices. Slimy when thawed, but so what. Thaw and add frozen banana slices to your morning oatmeal. Following the instructions for the oatmeal you’re using, mix oats with half water/half milk, add a bit of maple syrup or brown sugar, and a few frozen banana slices, and cook it over slow heat.
3.Speaking of oatmeal, it’s also cheap and nutritious, not to mention filling and extremely versatile. It keeps well for a long time. Have it for breakfast with frozen bananas stirred in. Add it to pancake batter. Among frugal cooks, it’s a well-known “extender,” filling in for bread crumbs, bulking up a meatloaf or a casserole.
4.If you do have fresh food you think might go bad before you can finish it, try freezing it (yes, even cooking and salad greens). Cut well-washed food into uniform-sized pieces, blanch in boiling water for two or three minutes, drain and cool immediately, then package and freeze. Don’t fuss over which containers to use: washed yogurt, cottage cheese, or butter containers with covers, doubled up plastic storage bags. Also don’t worry about the precise blanching times; just add your frozen veggies to your next soup or casserole.
5.By the way, you can also freeze hard cheese. And butter, too! If it’s packaged in plastic, just toss a block of cheese into the freezer as is. Remove to the refrigerator a couple of days before you want to use it. You probably won’t be able to tell that it was frozen. As for butter, remove the quarter-pound sticks from the package, leaving the paper wrapping on. Then wrap each stick tightly in foil, or put them all in an airtight freezer bag, and freeze.
6.Got pinto beans? I discovered this recipe for pinto-bean pie, inspired by the numerous Depression-era “mock pies. I think you could eat it for any meal.
 
"Living Naturally" is all about living a naturally healthy lifestyle. Margaret Boyles covers health tips, ways to avoid illness, natural remedies, food that's good for body and soul, recipes for homemade beauty products, ideas to make your home a healthy and safe haven, and the latest news on health. Our goal is also to encourage self-sufficiency, whether it's relearning some age-old skills or getting informed on modern improvements that help us live better, healthier lives.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/easy-recipes-cooking-coronavirus-quarantine
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

image from Becky's Greenhouse

     ​      So here is what we got in this week.  Seed potatoes, Yukon Gold, Red pontanic, Kennebec.  Onion sets red, white and yellow.  When you are ready, when the ground is ready you can pick them up here at Becky's Greenhouse.  Remember call me 641-794-3337. email me at beckmall@netins.net and we can do curbside pickup.  I am working every day so give me a call if you want to pick some up.
 
Here is how to plant the potatoes....
Folklore offers many “best days” for planting potatoes:
•Old-timers in New England planted their potato crops when they saw dandelions blooming in the open fields.
•The Pennsylvania Dutch considered St. Gertrude’s Day (March 17, aka St. Patrick’s Day) to be their official potato-planting day.
•Many Christians believed that Good Friday was the best day to plant potatoes because the devil holds no power over them at this time.
 
When to Plant Potatoes
Potatoes prefer cool weather.
In Northern regions, some gardeners will plant the first crop of early-maturing potatoes in early to mid-April, 6 to 8 weeks before the average last frost date or as soon as the soil can be worked; they can survive some cool weather but the threat of frost is a gamble. If there is a threat of frost at night, temporarily cover any sprouted foliage with mulch or an artificial covering such as old sheets or plastic containers (and be sure to remember to remove the coverings in the morning).
•To avoid frost, consider starting potatoes 0 to 2 weeks after your last spring frost. You may plant earlier, as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops may be ruined by a frost or overly wet soil.
•The soil, not the calendar, will tell you when it’s time to plant. The temperature of the soil should—ideally—be at least 50°F (10°C). The soil should also not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work. Let it dry out a bit first. Like other seeds, potato seed pieces will rot if planted in ground that’s too wet.
 
In Southern regions, potatoes can be grown as a winter crop and planting times range from September to February. Where winters are relatively mild, you can plant a fall crop in September. In central Florida, gardeners plant potatoes in January; and in Georgia they plant in February.
 
Preparing the Planting Site
•Potatoes grow best in cool, well-drained, loose soil that is about 45° to 55°F (7° to 13°C).
•Choose a location that gets full sun—at least 6 hours of sunlight each day.
•Grow potatoes in rows spaced about 3 feet apart.
•With a hoe or round-point shovel, dig a trench about 6 inches wide and 8 inches deep, tapering the bottom to about 3 inches wide.
•Spread and mix in fully-rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench before planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
 
How to Plant Potatoes
•In each trench, place a seed potato piece (cut side down) every 12 to 14 inches and cover with 3 to 4 inches of soil.
•If your garden soil is very rocky, put the seed potato pieces directly on the ground. Sprinkle with a mix of soil and compost. Cover them with straw or leaves, hilling the material up as the potatoes grow.
•The best starters are seed potatoes. Do not confuse seed potatoes with potato seeds or grocery produce! Select seed potatoes which have protruding eyes (buds).
•Use a clean, sharp paring knife to cut large potatoes into pieces that are roughly the size of a golf ball, making sure that there are at least 2 eyes on each piece. (Potatoes that are smaller than a hen’s egg should be planted whole.)
•If you are cutting up potato pieces yourself, do so 1 to 2 days ahead of planting. This will give them the chance to “heal” and form a protective layer over the cut surface, improving both moisture retention and rot resistance.
•12 to 16 days after planting, when sprouts appear, use a hoe to gently fill in the trench with another 3 to 4 inches of soil, leaving a few inches of the plants exposed. Repeat in several weeks, leaving the soil mounded up 4 to 5 inches above ground level (this is called “hilling” and is explained more here.).
•After the potato plants have emerged, add organic mulch between the rows to conserve moisture, help with weed control, and cool the soil.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from Becky's Greenhouse

image from pinterest

           So the pictures are what are planted and growing in the greenhouse.  Do you noticed the Cordyline's plants growing?  Here is some great information about them.  It is full production here for planting.  We will be here to help with your gardening needs.  I tried to post yesterday but internet was very slow.  SO got up early to post and internet is working so here it is.  Stay Healthy.  
Features
Cordyline’s narrow, sword-like foliage adds style and structure to the landscape. Its burgundy-red leaves are a source of rich color all season long, without the fuss of flowers. Terrific for growing in containers, either alone or mixed with contrasting flowers or foliage plants.
 
Uses
Wonderful for combination plantings. Perfect for all kinds of containers. Use as an accent or specimen in beds, planters and window boxes.
 
Plant Details
Category: Annual
Available Colors: Grown for foliage
Bloom Time: Grown for foliage
Height Range: 2-4' (0.6-1.2m)
Space Range: 18-24" (46-61cm)
Lowest Temperature: 20° to 30°F (-7° to -1°C)
Plant Light: Sun to Part Shade
Companion Plants: Impatiens, Plectranthus, Dusty Miller
USDA Zone: 9-11
taken from https://www.mygardenlife.com/plant-library/6585/cordyline/australis/red-sensation
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
March 24, 2020
    So we know spring will come.  Gardening can be done.  So we are planning on being open with the planting going on now.  We can do curbside delivery.  You will call, email me and we can get your order together and then bring it to your car.  Also we are in a small community with lots of space, so you can shop within the 6 feet rule of others.  We got seed potatoes in yesterday.  So planting on Good Friday will work if the soil is ready for them.  We are working with the bulk garden seeds to make sure they are good.  Plus we are planting lots of plants.  Please share this with others and let them know we will be here to help with their gardening needs.  THANKS
 
Are you one of those gardeners that check the ground obsessively for signs of life from the first mild day in February onward? Spring fever seems to affect gardeners more severely than others, and the remedy is to get more and earlier flowers in your landscape.
 
The colder the climate, the more anxious gardeners are for signs of spring in the landscape. Planting very early bloomers can make you feel like you’ve cheated part of winter, because these hardy bulbs may begin to bloom when the holiday decorations are just coming down. These petite flowers don’t make much of a statement when planted in groups of a dozen or less, but the low price of the so-called minor bulbs makes planting of a hundred or more affordable.
 
The common snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, sports dainty white bell-shaped flowers on six-inch stalks. They bloom as early as January and naturalize easily in an undisturbed spot. If white flowers are lost in your snowy garden, consider the winter aconite, Eranthis hyemalis, which produce bright yellow flowers atop a ruffled collar of green foliage. Finally, glory-of-the-snow, Chionodoxa luciliae, produces masses of blue, pink, or white star-shaped flowers to satisfy your pastel flower cravings.
 
If your digging arm ran out of steam after planting the first bag of fifty tulips last fall, your spring flower show may not be as lush as you wanted it to be. Interplant your large bulbs, like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths, with cold-hardy annuals. The resulting look will resemble a gardening magazine spread or public garden display you have admired.
 
The careful digging that allows you to install a nursery six-pack of hardy annual transplants won’t disturb large bulbs, which should be planted 4-8 inches deep. Plant the annuals as soon as they are offered in your nursery, as you should already see green foliage tips emerging from the bulbs. Try these four planting partners this spring:
 
■ Tulips and primroses
■ Hyacinths and pansies
■ Daffodils and scented stock
■ Dutch iris and sweet alyssum
 
When creating a flowering landscape, follow the garden design principle of starting with trees, then shrubs, then plants. Shrubs not only give the garden texture and dimension, but many also offer reliable spring flowers for sunny or shady situations. Azaleas herald the arrival of spring in many southern gardens, and forsythia does the same in temperate climates.
 
If the thought of a plain green shrub amidst your flowers doesn’t thrill you, choose a shrub that displays bright berries after its flowers fall, like viburnum. You can also look for newer cultivars of old favorites that have variegated foliage, like daphne ‘Marginata’ in warm climates or elderberry 'Madonna’ in cold climates.
 
When you include flowering containers in your spring garden, you can get earlier blooms in your garden than when you plant in the ground. You can bring small hanging baskets into a shed or garage when temperatures plummet at night, and even large containers can move to a sheltered area if you employ planters on casters.
 
Some of the most beloved container plants thrive in cool spring temperatures, including snapdragons, petunias, and annual lobelia. These cool-season annuals are at their flowering peak when daytime temperatures are in the 70s. Other container flowers, like viola and nasturtium, can tolerate early spring frosts.
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/spring-flower-guide-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from keepcalm-o-matic.co.uk

       ​    So we know spring will come.  Gardening can be done.  So we are planning on being open with the planting going on now.  We can do curbside delivery.  You will call, email me and we can get your order together and then bring it to your car.  Also we are in a small community with lots of space, so you can shop within the 6 feet rule of others.  We got seed potatoes in yesterday.  So planting on Good Friday will work if the soil is ready for them.  We are working with the bulk garden seeds to make sure they are good.  Plus we are planting lots of plants.  Please share this with others and let them know we will be here to help with their gardening needs.  THANKS
 
Are you one of those gardeners that check the ground obsessively for signs of life from the first mild day in February onward? Spring fever seems to affect gardeners more severely than others, and the remedy is to get more and earlier flowers in your landscape.
 
The colder the climate, the more anxious gardeners are for signs of spring in the landscape. Planting very early bloomers can make you feel like you’ve cheated part of winter, because these hardy bulbs may begin to bloom when the holiday decorations are just coming down. These petite flowers don’t make much of a statement when planted in groups of a dozen or less, but the low price of the so-called minor bulbs makes planting of a hundred or more affordable.
 
The common snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, sports dainty white bell-shaped flowers on six-inch stalks. They bloom as early as January and naturalize easily in an undisturbed spot. If white flowers are lost in your snowy garden, consider the winter aconite, Eranthis hyemalis, which produce bright yellow flowers atop a ruffled collar of green foliage. Finally, glory-of-the-snow, Chionodoxa luciliae, produces masses of blue, pink, or white star-shaped flowers to satisfy your pastel flower cravings.
 
If your digging arm ran out of steam after planting the first bag of fifty tulips last fall, your spring flower show may not be as lush as you wanted it to be. Interplant your large bulbs, like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths, with cold-hardy annuals. The resulting look will resemble a gardening magazine spread or public garden display you have admired.
 
The careful digging that allows you to install a nursery six-pack of hardy annual transplants won’t disturb large bulbs, which should be planted 4-8 inches deep. Plant the annuals as soon as they are offered in your nursery, as you should already see green foliage tips emerging from the bulbs. Try these four planting partners this spring:
 
■ Tulips and primroses
■ Hyacinths and pansies
■ Daffodils and scented stock
■ Dutch iris and sweet alyssum
 
When creating a flowering landscape, follow the garden design principle of starting with trees, then shrubs, then plants. Shrubs not only give the garden texture and dimension, but many also offer reliable spring flowers for sunny or shady situations. Azaleas herald the arrival of spring in many southern gardens, and forsythia does the same in temperate climates.
 
If the thought of a plain green shrub amidst your flowers doesn’t thrill you, choose a shrub that displays bright berries after its flowers fall, like viburnum. You can also look for newer cultivars of old favorites that have variegated foliage, like daphne ‘Marginata’ in warm climates or elderberry 'Madonna’ in cold climates.
 
When you include flowering containers in your spring garden, you can get earlier blooms in your garden than when you plant in the ground. You can bring small hanging baskets into a shed or garage when temperatures plummet at night, and even large containers can move to a sheltered area if you employ planters on casters.
 
Some of the most beloved container plants thrive in cool spring temperatures, including snapdragons, petunias, and annual lobelia. These cool-season annuals are at their flowering peak when daytime temperatures are in the 70s. Other container flowers, like viola and nasturtium, can tolerate early spring frosts.
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/spring-flower-guide-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​This was today's devotional from the Power of Being Thankful by Joyce Meyer
Refuse to Live in Fear
The Lord himself goes before you and will be with you; he will never leave you nor forsake you.  Do not be afraid; do not be discouraged.  Deuteronomy 31:8
 
     Fear is a spirit that produces feelings.  When God told Joshua to not be afraid.  He ws not commanding him to not "feel" fear, He was commanding him to not give in to the fear he was facing.
     I oftern encourage people to "do it afraid."  That basically means when fear attacks you, you need to go ahead and do whatever God is telling you to do any way.  You may do it with your knees shaking or your palms sweating, but do it anyway.  That's what it means to "fear not."
     We can be thankful we have Scripture to meditate on when we feel afraid.  God's promises strengthen us to keep pressing forward, not matter how we feel.   The Word of God will give you the faith you need to overcome any feeling of fear. 
   Thank You Lord that I don't have to give in to a feeling of fear.  With Your help, I can press forward and do what You have called me to do regardless of my feelings.  Thank You, Lord that I can do it afraid.  In your name we pray AMEN
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

taken from garden.org

       ​     We all are thinking about gardening and what we will plant.  As I asked my young gardeners what are you going to do to with your weeds.  They had a look on their faces "weeds?"  Will we have them we have tilled the garden well?  But unfortunately the weed seeds love that fresh tilled garden.  Here are some interesting hints on controlling the weeds.  Let us know how you control the weeds. Stay healthy.
 
Control Annual Weeds
By Charlie Nardozzi
 
Now that the vegetable garden is all planted, not only are your seeded squash, cucumbers, lettuces, beans, and carrots coming up, so are the weeds. There are perennial and annual weeds in most gardens. The perennial weeds, such as dandelions and quack grass, come up every spring, usually before you even get into the garden to plant. Annual weeds, such as lamb's quarters, purslane, galinsoga, and redroot pigweed (amaranth), are more opportunistic. There are literarily thousands of weed seeds in most garden soils. When you disturb the soil to plant, you are bringing weed seeds to the soil surface where light and warmth allow them to germinate. Plus, you can be bringing weed seed into your garden from compost or manures.
 
To control perennial weeds you need to dig them out — root and all. I won't be tackling that issue here. Annual weeds can be easier to control if you stay on top of the situation. Here are my 10 steps for controlling annual weeds in your vegetable garden.

When weeding, try not to dig deeper than a few inches into the soil to avoid bringing weed seeds to the surface to germinate.
 
1. Don't Till – While most gardeners are already planted, this is a good reminder for next year's garden and for gardeners who use a rototiller to weed between rows. The more you till, the more weed seeds are brought to the soil surface to germinate. Consider moving to a low or no till gardening system to keep the weed seeds buried. Also, avoid adding partially decomposed manures to your garden. Some, such as horse manure, can contain lots of weed seed. Lee Reich's book, Weedless Gardening (Workman, 2001) is a great guide to no-till gardening.
 
2. Identify Your Weed – Know the weed you're dealing with before you start pulling or hoeing. Make sure it's a weed and not one of your vegetable seedlings. Check out the Weed Library for proper weed identification.
 
3. Weed Early – If you weed early in the season,, you'll have fewer problems later in the growing season. Remove annual weeds before they reach 3 inches tall. Preferably on a sunny day, using a sharp-edged hoe, gently slice the weeds just below the soil surface to kill them. The sun will help kill the weeds so they don't resprout. Slicing the weeds less than 2 inches below the surface will avoid bringing more weed seeds to the surface.
 
Buckwheat is a good cover crop to smother weeds and build the organic matter in your soil.
 
4. Grow Weed Smothering Crops – Some vegetables compete better with weeds than others and once established, will be able to smother annual weeds. Crops such as tomatoes, squash, melons, potatoes, cabbage, and beans grow quickly in warm soils and can outgrow the weeds. Plus, they are large enough to shade out weeds growing later in the season. Vegetables such as lettuce, carrots, onions and radishes don't compete well with weeds and your yields will be reduced if you don't weed well early and often..
 
5. Add Organic Mulches – Once you've weeded a few times and your plants have germinated and are growing vigorously, consider adding an organic mulch. Organic mulches such as straw, pine straw, bark mulch, grass clippings from untreated lawns, and chopped leaves will keep the soil cool, moist, and less weedy while adding organic matter to the soil as they break down. Avoid using hay because it has weed seeds in it. Add a 2- to 3-inch thick layer of mulch around established plants. Organic mulches are best used on cool season vegetables, such as broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, and peas. If you are going to use them on warm season vegetables such as tomatoes, melons, peppers, and beans, wait until the soil has warmed into the 60Fs before applying the mulch.
 
6. Add Inorganic Mulch – Another way to mulch is to lay black, green, or red plastic mulch down on the beds before planting. These inorganic mulches warm the soil by 6 to 8 degrees and by poking holes and planting right into the mulch, the roots can take advantage of the warm soil and the plants will grow faster. They also keep weeds from germinating. It's best to run a soaker hose or drip irrigation line under the plastic mulch to keep the plants well watered. Most plastic mulches can be reused for 2 to 3 years if you're careful when pulling them up in fall.
 
Mulch with straw after weeding to keep the soil moist and prevent more weeds from growing.
 
7. Mulch Pathways – There's no reason to be weeding pathways. Pathways between rows of crops can be mulched at planting with any material that will prevent weed growth. Cardboard, bark mulch, straw, even old rugs can be used to stop weed growth. Some of the heavier materials, such as cardboard and old rugs, will not break down quickly and may need to be removed come fall.
 
8. Don't Let Weeds Go to Seed – Weed plants can reproduce prolifically. For example, one plant of redroot pigweed can produce more than 100,000 seeds in one season. If you get behind in your weeding, at least cut them down to prevent weed seeds from forming.
 
9. Grow Cover Crops – If you're battling lots of annual weeds in your garden, consider growing a cover crop to smother them and add organic matter to the soil. Buckwheat is a fast growing cover crop that will smother weeds. Consider planting winter rye in the fall, then turning it under in spring. The residue has been known to reduce pigweed, purslane, and lamb's quarter seed germination rates by 75%.
 
10. Eat Your Weeds – Weeds aren't all bad. After all, the definition of a weed is a plant growing in the wrong place. Many weeds are edible and taste great. Harvest lamb's quarters, purslane, and pigweed when they are young and add them to salads. Mix chickweed in with basil and parsley to make a great pesto.
taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/4017/?utm_source=nl&utm_medium=mail&utm_campaign=nl_2020-03-21
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

Dianthus Chiba Rose image from Ivy Garth Seeds and Plants

dianthus Telestar Crimson image from Ivy Garth seeds and plants

        ​     I planted these yesterday.  Chiba Rose and Telestar Crimson Dianthus  They are a great plant for the garden or containers.  Bloom all season with some deadheading.  Sweet Williams in another name for this cultivar.  I am going to try to post a couple times a day to show case what we are planting and give you something else to read besides all this other stuff. Stay healthy.
 
Intro: Dianthus flowers are perfect for plant containers and will bring a splash of color to any urban balcony garden. Dianthus flowers come in many colors, either it be a solid white, red, purple, pink and sometimes yellow, or with two colors or marks in the petals. The height of this flower ranges from 6 inches to 3 feet, and there are so many Dianthus varieties that any gardener can find a beautiful Dianthus species to fit his or her balcony garden.
 
Scientific Name: Dianthus spp.
 
Plant Type: Dianthus flowers are annual; some species are biennial
 
Light: Full sun, although several varieties, such as Dianthus deltoides, do well in partial shade.
 
Water: When it comes to watering Dianthus flowers, keep the soil evenly moist. Do not overwater or allow the potting soil to dry out.
 
Zone: Depends on variety. The Dianthus genus can range from Zone 3 to 11.
 
Fertilizer: Fertilize once a month during the Dianthus flower’s growing season.
 
Pests and Diseases: Most Dianthus plants will stay healthy and not be affected by insect pests or disease. Be on the lookout for aphids, spider mites, root and stem rot and mildew.
 
Propagation: To propagate this plant, allow spent Dianthus flowers to stay on the plant (do not deadhead) in order for the flowers to develop seeds. Collect seeds and plant after the last frost has passed. You can also just allow seeds to fall to the ground. New Dianthus flowers will spring up next year in the same spot.
 
Misc. Info: Deadhead flowers to produce more blooms
taken from http://balconycontainergardening.com/plants/317-grow-care-dianthus-flower
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net