image from My Jewish Learning 2nd post for today. Pastor Wendy shared with us last night at Ash Wed. Service the sound of a Shofar. I have never heard of this before. I wanted to share in memory of our good friend, Ruth Newman because she would have told us all about this Jewish custom.
Shofar, ritual musical instrument, made from the horn of a ram or other animal, used on important Jewish public and religious occasions. In biblical times the shofar sounded the Sabbath, announced the New Moon, and proclaimed the anointing of a new king. This latter custom has been preserved in modern Israel at the swearing in of the president of the state. The Jewish holiday of Yom Kippur is the religion's holiest day of the year. The most important modern use of the shofar in religious ceremonies takes place on Rosh Hashana, when it is sounded in the synagogue to call the Jewish people to a spiritual reawakening as the religious New Year begins on Tishri 1. The shofar can be made to produce sobbing, wailing, and sustained sounds in sequences that are varied strictly according to ritual. The shofar is also sounded on Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement, as a call for repentance and sacrifice and for love of the Torah. Taken from https://www.britannica.com/art/shofar till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365
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image from cherryblossomlife.com It is cool out this morning. The temperature is 22 degrees at 8:30 AM and the wind is blowing. So, if feels can you believe this 10 degrees. High today is 37 and it looks like Friday through Sunday it will be cooler out. Above the average but only in the 30’s. Stay warm, stay safe.
How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Carrots by Catherine Boeckmann Everyone enjoys a sweet, crunchy carrot, but many gardeners find them a bit tricky to grow. It’s all in the soil! Take a moment to find out what you need to grow carrots in your garden successfully! Learn how to plant, grow, and harvest home-grown carrots. About Carrots Carrots are a cool-season crop grown in spring. They are an excellent source of vitamin A and add color to a meal. They can be served cooked or raw. This popular vegetable has a natural sweetness—especially the homegrown carrot because the sugar that makes a carrot sweet begins to be replaced by fiber as it ages in the grocery stores. Plus, the home gardener has so many more varieties to grow, from Belgian whites to Purple Dragon to Parisian heirlooms that are round! (Not all carrots are the grocery store shape.) In fact, don’t expect to get perfectly straight ”grocery store” carrots. Your carrots will still taste better, whatever their shape! Carrots are known to be difficult to grow, especially in heavy, compacted soil. However, with a little effort, you can indeed grow carrots! You can learn more in our planting guide below. PLANTING Carrots prefer sunny locations (6 to 10 hours of sun). The soil itself should be free-draining; this is one of the few crops benefiting from sandier soils. You don’t want your soil to be too rich either, or the carrots can’t reach down! If your garden is made of rugged, clay soil, grow carrots in containers or raised beds at least 8 inches to 12 inches high. See our tips on container gardening below! When to Plant Carrots Carrot seeds can be sown about 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date.. Ideally, you want the soil to have dried out and warmed up a little after the winter. Seeds germinate after the soil temperature is at least 40° and germinate best at 55-65°, not exceeding 75°F. High summer temperatures reduce growth, decrease quality, and cause bitter or off-flavors to develop. For a fall harvest, sow seeds in mid-to-late summer—starting about ten weeks before your first fall frost. How to Plant Carrots Prepare the site by tilling to a depth of 10 inches. Make sure there are no rocks, stones, or even soil clumps. Amend soil with compost and 6 inches of sandy topsoil if your soil isn’t loose and airy. We recommend double-digging to be certain. We recommend sowing seeds directly in the garden (or wherever you plan to grow them) rather than transplanting. Carrots do not like to have their roots disturbed. Sow 1/4 inch deep, 2 to 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot apart. Tip: Try to distribute seeds in an even fashion so that seeds don’t grow together. The seeds are pretty tiny, and it’s very easy to sow them too thickly. If you’ve not got the steadiest hand, then a simple tip is to mix the seeds with fine sand to spread the seeds out. You can then sow pinches of your sand-seed mix instead. Then, just cover the seeds over. Keep the soil moist with frequent, shallow watering. For small carrot seeds to germinate, the soil mustn’t form a hard crust on top; covered with a layer of fine sand, vermiculite, or compost to prevent a crust from forming. (If you put your finger in the ground, it should be moist, but not wet, to the middle knuckle.) Carrots are sometimes slow to germinate. They require 14-21 days to emerge, so don’t panic if your carrots don’t appear immediately! Planting radishes with carrots helps minimize the crusting problem and helps you keep track of where the carrot seeds were planted. Sow quick-germinating radish seeds between carrot rows. The radishes will grow quickly, and by the time the carrots really start to grow, they can be harvested. For a continued harvest, plant carrots every four weeks through mid-summer. Carrots in Containers Growing carrots in pots is a great way to customize the perfect growing medium and avoid pests like carrot flies. Pots must be at least 10 to 12 inches deep and wide. A great low-fertility mix is one part sand and one part potting mix. Sow seeds very thinly over the top of a filled pot and then cover them with just a touch more of the mix. Water well, label, and set into a sunny position. Keep everything moist because, unlike those that are in the ground, carrots in containers will be entirely dependent on you for all their needs. Thin the seedlings to a couple of inches apart once they’re up. Then harvest once they’ve reached finger size. GROWING Gently mulch carrots to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from hitting the roots directly. When seedlings are an inch tall with 3 to 4 true leaves, thin so that they stand 3 to 4 inches apart. Snip tops with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the fragile roots of the remaining plants. Ensure carrots receive 1 inch of water per week, either through rain or watering; do not overwater carrots. Weed diligently as carrots do not like struggling against weeks, but be careful not to disturb the young carrots’ roots while doing so. Fertilize 5 to 6 weeks after sowing (We recommend a low-nitrogen fertilizer as excess nitrogen in the soil promotes top, or foliage, growth—not roots.) Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/carrots Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Bleeding heart Love-in-a-mist Love-lies-bleeding Larkspur Alyssum Falling in love poppies Forget-me-not Valentine sunflower Exotic Love Vine Kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate WOW it is sunny, clear blue sky, not much wind and the temperature at 9:00 AM is 36 degrees. High today in the 50’s. rain/Snow maybe tonight and then the temperature will be 30’s for the next 10 days. That is ok. We need more seasonable weather and have these temperatures in April. Happy Valentine’s Day. Interesting article about romantic flowers you can grow in your garden. I bet some of you are growing them all ready. Stay safe and enjoy your day.
Love will blossom along with these romantically named flowers by Robin Sweetser In honor of Valentine’s Day, we had fun finding these 10 flowers with romantic names. Consider adding these flower seeds to your garden, or give your loved ones some special seed packets for a season of long-lasting blooms! ‘Valentine’ sunflower ‘Valentine’ sunflower grows to be 5 feet tall. Its lemony yellow blossoms with chocolate brown centers are excellent for cutting so you’ll have bouquets all summer long to remind you of your growing love. ‘Exotic Love Vine’ aka Spanish Flag (Mina lobata) grows to be 15 feet tall in a good season, an indicator of the great heights to which love can soar. Its multicolored flowers change from yellow to orange to red as they mature. Forget-me-not Forget-me-not (Myosotis spp) is a hardy biennial that carpets the ground in early spring with its delicate pink, white, and blue flowers. According to a German folktale, it got its name when a knight who was picking flowers at a river’s edge fell in the water and was swept away by the current. He yelled, “Forget me not!” as he threw the bouquet to his sweetheart. Falling in love poppies ‘Falling in Love’ shirley poppies have delicate, crepe-papery, 3-inch-wide double flowers in a mix of scarlet, rose, white, and coral. These charmers bloom early and will reseed to keep your love blossoming year after year. Larkspur ‘Lover’s Mix’ larkspur is a classic cut flower with spires in pastel shades of lilac, pink, blue, rose, and white—perfect for bouquets for that special someone. Alyssum ‘Summer Romance’ alyssum is aptly named because you will fall in love with its sweet honey scent and blend of lavender, violet, white, and pink blossoms. Love-lies-bleeding Love-lies-bleeding (Amaranthus caudatus) is an heirloom plant that was a favorite in Victorian gardens. An amaranth, it bears long chenille-like tassels of dark red that cascade down toward the ground in dramatic fashion. It looks great growing over a white picket fence. Kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate (Persicaria orientalis) is another exotic heirloom. With lightly scented, 4-6 inch long rosy pink tassels and heart-shaped leaves, you will find it hard to resist. Blooming from July until frost, it can grow to be 6-7 feet tall in a good year and will keep your passion on display. For a shorter version, look for the cultivar ‘Cerise Pearls’. It grows to be only 4-5 feet tall, keeping the flowers at eye-level. Love-in-a-mist Love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) is another classic flower of the romantic garden that’s also known as “Love Entangle” or “Love-in-a-puzzle” for the way its flowers seem to float in a cloud of finely cut foliage. The blossoms come in many shades of blue, purple, pink, and white with dark centers. After blooming, the handsome seed pods can be dried and used in arrangements. Bleeding heart Of course, we can’t forget the famous bleeding heart. Who doesn’t love the arched sprays of tiny pink hearts that cover plants in early spring? Get passionate about gardening and plant the seeds of love this Valentine’s Day! Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-romantic-flowers-valentines-day Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Have you ever grown Lucky Bamboo? I have and it is easy. I will try to get some plants to play with.2/12/2024 image from fnpblog Good morning, looks cooler out this morning as the temperature is at 22 degrees at 7:30 AM. Clear blue sky seeing the sun will be good. It is predicted that Feb for us in Iowa will be mild, which will make winter shorter in time. Then we have March. Valentine’s Day this week, so flowers and plants are in the minds of many. Here is some information on Lucky Bamboo. I had one grown for a long time, but don’t have it now. I think I will look for this plant.
Lucky Bamboo's Many Meanings, Plus Care Tips Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) is a houseplant—not real bamboo! It’s popular because of its ability to grow in low light in the home or office. Learn more about how to care for Lucky Bamboo for years of good health and fortune! What Is Lucky Bamboo? The plant we commonly call “lucky bamboo” isn’t a type of bamboo at all. Despite its appearance, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana or braunii) is actually more closely related to succulents than to bamboo, which is a type of grass. Lucky bamboo is native to Africa, but is now cultivated around the world as a good-luck houseplant. Why is the Plant Called Lucky Bamboo? In Chinese lore, lucky bamboo symbolizes good fortune, and feng shui practitioners use it to attract positive energy. The number of stalks have different meanings: 2 stalks symbolize love or double luck 3 stalks bring three kinds of luck: happiness, long life, and wealth 4 stalks are bad luck; they bring negative energy and are thought to be a death wish! 5 stalks balance 5 areas of health: emotional, spiritual, mental, intuitive, and physical 6 stalks attract prosperity and wealth 7 stalks promote good health 8 stalks are good for success, growth, and fertility 9 stalks bring great luck 10 stalks bestow a complete and perfect life 21 stalks are for great wealth and enduring health How to Start Growing Lucky Bamboo Most people who grow lucky bamboo indoors have the plant in water. Here’s how: Use a layer of pebbles to stabilize the stems of the plant and hold it in place. Add enough water to keep the roots covered. (If it hasn’t grown roots yet, the plant will need at least 3 inches of water.) Distilled or filtered water is best, especially if you have fluoride or chlorine in your tap water. These chemicals can cause the green tips of the leaves to burn and turn brown. The container must have drainage holes; while you water frequently, do not let it sit in water or become waterlogged. A clear container makes it easy to see the roots and check the water level, but it can also cause algae to grow, so you may want to use a colored container. You’ll need to keep raising the water level as the plants grow to keep it above the roots. Lucky Bamboo Care Tips Lucky bamboo is a very easy-going plant that doesn’t require much attention. Follow these tips for success with your plant: Change the water every 7 to 10 days, cleaning the pebbles and container as well. Normally, lucky bamboo will grow fine without any fertilizer, but if you wish, you can give it a small drop of houseplant fertilizer monthly. Since this plant grows in the shade of taller trees in nature, keep it out of direct sunlight. Bright, indirect light is best. If it starts to fade to a pale green it needs more light. Lucky bamboo likes warm temperatures, in the 65° to 90°F range. Caution—this plant is toxic to cats! If you wish, you can transplant lucky bamboo in the soil. If the stalks get too tall, cut them off and start a new plant by rooting the stalks in water. Keep them in a shady area until new roots form, then plant them in soil or pebbles. Tie a gold or red ribbon around the stalks to hold them together and to symbolize good fortune. Young stalks can be trained to curl by using wire to hold them or you can try blocking light on three sides of the plant causing it to grow toward the light. Keep turning as it grows to form the curve. This takes time, but makes for a fun project. Pliable stalks can also be braided or twisted together. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-grow-lucky-bamboo Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from clipground.com
image from blogspot.com Weather update: When I got up at 4:00 AM this morning, the outdoor temperature was 43 degrees. UNBELEVABLE for Feb in Iowa. High today of 58 tonight a low of 38. This is April weather. It is full blue sky but the wind is blowing and a wind advisory for today. I have the door open in the greenhouse all ready. See what April will bring.
Another article for food for thought. Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Peas by Catherine Boeckmann Use this as guide when to plant peas. When to Plant Peas Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature. Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up. The sweet taste of glorious garden-grown peas is nothing like what you find in grocery stores. They are nature’s candy off the vine! Peas are one of the season’s first crops, planted as soon as the ground can be worked, even if snow falls afterward. About Peas Peas are easy to grow, but their growing period is limited. It’s essential to plant them early enough in spring so they mature while the weather is still cool! (This means planting in most parts of the United States and Canada in February, March, or April.) However, they can also be grown as a fall or winter crop in warmer regions. Peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy their taste as soon as possible! Those peas in grocery stores are often starchy in taste, which you’ll find has no comparison to garden-fresh peas. Three varieties of peas suit most garden and culinary needs: Sweet peas, aka garden peas or English peas (Pisum sativum ssp. sativum), have inedible pods from which the seeds (peas) are taken. Snow peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon) produce edible, flat, stringless pods containing small peas. Snap peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon ser. cv.) produce thick, edible pods containing large/full-size peas. Great planting companions for peas include: Chives, Mint, Alyssum, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish, Turnip, and Beans. Learn more about Companion Planting. PLANTING Select a sunny location and well-draining soil. Although peas can grow in part shade, they won’t be as sweet or productive as those grown in full sun. Prepare the soil, preferably in the fall, mixing in aged manure and/or compost, and much well—peas like well-draining soil. When to Plant Peas Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature. Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up. Snow will not hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens might. Be prepared to plant again if the first peas don’t make it. Alternatively, try starting your peas in a cold frame. A second round of peas can be planted in the late summer or early fall, approximately 6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost date. Here are some more tips on when to start planting peas. How to Plant Peas Peas are best direct-seeded right in the ground and do not like their roots disturbed. But transplanting is possible if you start seeds in biodegradable pots; you’ll transplant the pot and all into the garden, and the pot will disintegrate. Where spring is long and wet, plant seeds in raised garden beds. To speed germination, soak seeds in water overnight before planting. Sow seeds 1 inch deep (slightly deeper if the soil is dry) and about 2 inches apart. Do not thin. Plant rows 7 inches apart. Regarding crop rotation, do not plant peas in the same place more than once every four years. Like those of other legumes, pea roots fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants. In terms of fertilizer, peas need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen will encourage foliage growth instead of flowers or pods. Learn more about soil amendments. Bush peas can reach 18 to 30 inches tall. Pole types can grow at least 4 to 6 feet tall. Both types benefit from support (especially bush peas above 2 feet and all pole peas). Install thin tree branches or twiggy sticks (pea sticks), trellises, chicken wire, strings, or netting before plants establish their shallow roots. See instructions on how to build trellises and supports for peas. Water to keep the soil moist. If seeds wash out of the soil, poke them back into it. GROWING Water peas sparsely with no more than 1 inch per week, unless the plants are wilting. We don’t want to encourage pea rot. But also do not let the plants dry out. If this happens, no pods will be produced. Gently remove intrusive weeds by hand. If necessary, hoe or cultivate, but carefully avoid disturbing peas’ shallow, fragile roots. Pea leaves turn yellow for several reasons. Often, this is due to the stress of hot weather. Provide partial shade (e.g., row covers) and water properly during the hottest time of day. Fertilizing plants is not usually required if the plants are mulched deeply with grass clippings, shredded leaves, or another biodegradable material. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/peas Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from atraditionalife.com The thermometer says 36 degrees, but I wore my coat when I went to feed the cats. It is cloudy outside, and the wind is out of the south. When it is out of the south there must be moisture in the air, so it feels a lot colder. Like 28 degrees. But still, this is mild Feb weather in Iowa.
Do you see a reason for my postings today and yesterday? Yes, posting about plants, seeds, and garden vegetables you should plant first. I had a hard time to find when to plant onions, but this article said with air temperature of 55 degrees to 75 degrees. Onions are temperature sensitive: they require cool weather to produce their tops (early stages of growth) and warm weather to produce their bulbs (late stages of growth). Onions grow best in air temperatures of 55° to 75°F (13-24°C) Temperatures greater than 85°F (29°C) can cause soft, gray, watery bulbs. All food for thought….yes FOOD. How to Plant and Grow Onions by Stephen Albert from Harvest to Table website Onions can be grown for their green immature stems or they can be grown for their mature bulbs. These strong-smelling plants have been extremely popular for centuries. Two main types of onions are grown in the home garden: the young, green or white, bunching sorts eaten fresh and before the mature bulb has formed, and those that develop a large, coated bulb with a papery skin that is most often eaten boiled or fried (and also eaten fresh though some are pretty strong). How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Shallots Onions grown for their green stems are also called green onions, spring onions, and scallions. (The terms are often used interchangeably.) Bulb-forming onions can be harvested early as green onions. But not all green or bunching onions will grow bulbs if allowed to mature. So when you select an onion to grow in your garden, make sure you get the type of onion you want—bulbing or bunching. Here is your complete guide to growing onions. Raising onions in your garden There are three ways of starting onions: by seeds, by sets, and by multipliers or potato onions that develop among onion flower clusters. Here’s a primer on each of these ways to grow onions: Seeds: Raising onions from seeds is often difficult in the home garden, but seedlings raised by commercial nurseries are inexpensive and save time. Seedlings are one of the easiest ways to start an onion patch. Set: Onion sets are also inexpensive and easy to grow. The “set” consists of a small, immature bullet that has been harvested from a large bulb grown for that purpose. These immature bulblets will produce a mature onion during the season. Sets are used for growing spring onions for eating fresh and for growing mature onion bulbs. Sets are easy to plant and seldom fail. Bulbils among the flower clusters: Flower bulbils are not true bulbs like the set, but aerial, bulb-like organs from which a new plant will grow. These plants are often called multiplier- or potato-onions. Tree onions–also called topsetting onions, walking onions, or Egyptian walking onions produce bulbils among the flower clusters. Whichever way you choose to start onions, it is important to get true stock, authentic as to the variety from a reliable local garden center. Shape and size Bunching onion: Some onions produce very small, nearly insignificant bulbs; these are called bunching onions, green onions, and scallions. Pickling onions: Some onions produce small bulbs that are round or spindle in shape; these are called picking onions. Bulb or storage onions: Some onions produce medium-sized globe-shaped bulbs; these tend to be sharp-flavored storage onions. Fresh-use onions: Some onions produce large, round, mild-flavored bulbs for fresh use; Spanish and Bermuda onions are large, mild, and sometimes sweet. Color and flavor Onion colors range from white or yellow to red or purple. Yellow onions are all-purpose onions; they have a balance of astringency and sweetness in their flavor. White onions have a sharper more pungent flavor; they are also more tender and have a thinner, papery skin. Red onions have red flesh and purple skin; the flavor of red onion is similar to a yellow onion but the layers of red onion are less tender and less meaty than a yellow onion. Generally, the strongest-tasting onions are the best choice for storing into the winter; they have the toughest skins. Onion daylight requirements Bulb onion varieties differ according to the amount of daylight needed for bulb formation. Some varieties require 12 hours of light each day to form bulbs (called short-day); some require 13 to 16 hours of daylight to form bulbs (called long-day). If you live in the North where summer days are long, grow a long-day variety. If you live in the South, where daylight hours do not vary by much year-round, grow a short-day variety. Grow short-day varieties where winters are mild; where you can grow onions through autumn and winter. Grow-long day onions where winters are cold. Onions are not sensitive to mild frost in either spring or autumn. It may be worth noting, long-day onions tend to be round, and globe-shaped and short-day onions tend to be flatter in shape. Onion seeds, seedlings, and sets Onions can be grown from seeds, seedlings, or sets (sets are small bulbs grown the previous year). Onion sets (small onion bulbs) have a head start; they will mature more quickly. Onion seedlings will need more time to produce bulbs than sets. Onion seeds will need a long growing season to produce bulbs; sometimes they produce a bulb the second season they are in the ground. Sets are only available in spring. There will be a greater selection of varieties if you shop for seeds than in sets or seedlings. If you live in a short-growing season region, choose sets to ensure you have enough time to grow bulbs. Where to plant onions Grow bulb onions in full sun. Green onions can be grown in a partially shady spot. Onions prefer loose, well-worked, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Loosen the soil to 6 inches (15cm) deep and remove all lumps, stones, and roots. Add well-aged compost or a commercial organic planting mix to the planting bed before planting. Turn the soil under to 12 inches (30cm) deep. Sandy loam is good soil for growing onion sets. Loam is good soil for seeds and seedlings. Heavy clay soil can impede the development of bulbs. If the soil is not well-drained, grow onions in raised or mounded beds. Good drainage is important. A soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is recommended for growing onions. Perform a soil test before planting onions. Onions are light feeders. Onions can follow fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers in a crop rotation. They can be planted ahead of legumes in the crop rotation. Onion planting times Onions are temperature sensitive: they require cool weather to produce their tops (early stages of growth) and warm weather to produce their bulbs (late stages of growth). Onions grow best in air temperatures of 55° to 75°F (13-24°C) Temperatures greater than 85°F (29°C) can cause soft, gray, watery bulbs. Plant onion sets (small bulblets) 3 to 4 months before the time you want to harvest mature bulbs; plant sets 3 to 4 weeks before you want to harvest green onions. Onion seeds are best started indoors: start seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the average last frost date in spring and transplant them into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. (Cold temperatures can affect the germination rate; wait until the soil is at least 40°F before sowing seeds.) In mild-winter regions, plant onions in the fall or winter, depending on the variety. Most onions are sensitive to day length. American and Spanish onions need long days to produce their bulbs, and Bermuda onions prefer short days. Green onions for autumn harvest: Plant green onions 4 to 6 weeks before the first expected fall frost for autumn harvest; late summer or early fall temperatures should not be greater than 75°F (24°C). Green onions for winter and early spring harvest: In mild winter regions, plant green onions in autumn for winter and early spring harvest. About temperature and day-length: Bulb Onion Growing: Day Length and Temperature. Planting onion seeds Onion seeds can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before you plan to set seedlings out or you can direct sow seed in the garden when the soil temperature is at least 40°F (4.4°C). Sow seed ¼ to ½ inches (12mm) deep. The seed will germinate in 7 to 10 days at 70°F (21°C), longer in cooler soil. Thin seedlings from 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5cm) apart in rows 12 to 18 inches (30-45cm) apart; thin again for bulb onions from 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) apart. The final size of the onion will depend on how much growing space it has. Planting onion seedlings Seedlings are onions that have begun growing. You can start seedlings indoors from seed or you can purchase onion seedlings at the garden center. Place transplants in the garden just slightly higher than the surrounding soil and they will settle into place. Space seedling transplants 2 to 3 inches (5-7cm) apart in rows 12 to 18 inches (30-45cm) apart Thin seedlings from 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) or more apart allowing for bulb development. Planting onion sets Sets are small bulblets–about the size of a large pea–whose growth was interrupted before the bulbs developed. Bulblets larger than ¾ inch (19mm) in diameter may go to seed before developing bulbs (these are best grown as green onions). Plant sets 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5cm) deep. Plant sets pointed side up. Space sets 2 to 3 inches (5-7cm) apart in rows 12 to 18 inches (30-45cm) apart. Thin to 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) or more apart allowing for bulb development. The final size of the onion will depend on how much growing space it has. Companion plants for onions Grow onions with beets, lettuce, strawberries, summer savory, and tomatoes. Onions are easily inter-planted between larger crops such as cabbages or tomatoes. Container growing onions Green onions easily grow in containers 6 inches deep (15cm); grow 8 to 10 green onions in a container 8 inches across. Grow bulb onions in containers 8 to 10 inches (20-25cm) deep. Watering onions Keep the soil evenly moist until onion plants begin to mature. Dry soil can cause onions to split; wet soil can cause bulbs to rot. Transplants need more water than sets. To conserve soil moisture, lay down 8 to 10 inches (20-25cm) of mulch when the soil warms in early summer. Soil can be allowed to dry when leaves start to get yellow and brown and to droop over. Feeding onions Side-dress onion plants with a nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer such as alfalfa meal. You can also plant beans nearby; bean roots set nitrogen in the soil. Some growers place aged chicken manure between onion rows before planting. Gently and shallowly work the manure into the soil. The high nitrogen content can benefit onions. Do not let the mature touch the plants. Thin plants early to give bulbs room to mature to the desired size. Onion care Keep planting beds free of weeds to avoid competition for light, water, and nutrients. Weed control is important in the onion patch. Onion roots are very shallow; cultivate weeds with a shuffle hoe or remove them by hand being careful not to injure the shallow root system. Thin plants early to give bulbs room to mature to the desired size. Use the thinnings as green onions. Bend but do not break stalks 2 to 3 weeks before harvest to hasten bulb development. Cut back on watering close to harvest to keep the necks from rotting. Heavily mulch onions that you plan to over-winter and harvest the second season. Use an organic mulch such as aged compost or straw. Avoid planting onions near sweet potatoes; both can be attacked by wireworms. Taken from https://harvesttotable.com/how_to_grow_onion/ Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Feb 6, 2024 image from clipground.com It sounds like another awesome day for us. The temperature at 7:45AM is 27 degrees with a high today in the 50’s. We have blue, clear skies so almost perfect, and it is Feb. in Iowa. We are having highs to take care of that cold we had in January to get the averages to come out. Lows tonight of 33 while the average temperature is 17. I worked in the greenhouse yesterday and I had the doors open. It was pleasant to be in there just as I was cleaning not planting yet. I will do more cleaning and see what happens later this week. All of you enjoy this weather and stay safe.
Ash Wed is Feb 14 so Easter will be March 31st. I hate to say, but don’t think we will be planting potatoes on Good Friday. Here is what the soil, and the temperature needs to be to plant those potatoes. Potatoes aren’t fussy vegetables, which makes them a fabulous choice for first-time growers. They do well in most soils and almost always produce plenty to hunt for at harvest time. That said, you can do a few things to elevate your crop. You’ll need a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight and fertile, loose, well-drained soil; hard or compacted soil leads to misshapen tubers. Ideally, the soil is slightly acidic (pH 5.8 to 6.5), and the soil temperature is at least 45º to 55ºF (7° to 13°C). In the fall, mix compost or organic matter into the soil. Learn more about compost, soil amendments, and preparing the soil for planting.) When to Plant Potatoes Garden potatoes can be planted 2 to 4 weeks before the average last frost date. The soil temperature should be at least 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. But pay more attention to the soil than the calendar to determine planting time. The soil should not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work. Let it dry out a bit first. If you have a late and wet spring, you can plant later—through April (depending on location) or even June, especially in containers. In cooler regions, the early-maturing potatoes are usually planted early to mid-April. In warmer regions, planting times range from September to February; in central Florida, gardeners plant potatoes in January; in Georgia, they plant in February. 4 Methods of Plant Potatoes There are different approaches to planting potatoes. Dig Holes: For each seed potato, dig a hole about 6 inches deep (or 16 cm). Add in a little slow-release organic fertilizer (e.g., chicken manure pellets) and then pop in the potato with sprouts pointing up and cover with soil. Space potatoes about 16 inches (or 40 cm) apart in both directions for early types. Maincrop potatoes need a bit more space to stretch their legs, so space them at 18 inches (or 45 cm) apart. Dig V-Shaped Trenches: Dig 2- to 2.5-foot trenches (60 to 75 inches). Lay a nourishing cushion of garden compost along the bottom and a few of those chicken manure pellets, then set your tubers into position about one foot or 30 cm apart. Then just fill back in. I don’t think it makes a huge difference which way you plant, so do whatever’s easiest in the space you have. Plant in Straw: Nestle seed potatoes down into the soil surface, then cover them with straw. See our article on planting potatoes in straw. Plant Potatoes in Pots: If you don’t have the garden space, plant in large containers, old compost sacks, or purpose-sold potato sacks. Fill the bottom of your pot or sack with about 4 inches (10 cm) of potting mix, then lay one or two potatoes on top and cover. Once the foliage is growing, add in more potting mix, a bit at a time, to hill or earth them up until the soil level reaches the top at which point the foliage almost seems to explode in size. GROWING Watering Potatoes: Firstly, water! This is really important because potatoes are lush and leafy plants, and those tubers take a lot of effort to swell. So if it’s dry, water thoroughly. Maintain even moisture, especially from the time after the flowers bloom. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Too much water right after planting and not enough as the potatoes begin to form can cause them to become misshapen. Stop watering when the foliage begins to turn yellow and die off. If you’re growing in containers, take extra care to keep your plants really well watered, especially in warmer weather, as this really will make all the difference in achieving a good crop. Hilling Potatoes: The potato flavor is improved by depth and darkness. As the potato plants grow above the soil surface, you’ll need to periodically “hill up” or mound up soil and compost around the plant so that only the top leaves stick out of the ground. Becky’s note ( a way to think of this, is the potatoes all form on top of that seed potato you put in the ground.) It’s vital not to allow potato spuds to be exposed to sunlight, as this also causes them to turn green and produce a chemical called solanine, which gives off a bitter taste and is toxic. Do the hilling in the morning, when plants are at their tallest. (During the heat of the day, plants start drooping.) Just draw up the soil with a hoe every time the stems get to around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) tall so that just the very tops are left poking out. Continue doing this in stages until you can no longer draw up any more soil, or the foliage closes over in between the rows. If you’re growing your potatoes in a smaller raised bed, it may be easier to simply top up with organic matter around the whole area. Hilling keeps potatoes from getting sunburned, which can cause them to turn green and produce a bitter, toxic chemical. Protect From Frost: Late frosts can damage the young foliage – something to watch out for with early starts. Frost-bitten plants usually have enough energy to shake off any damage, but it can set plants back nonetheless. So if a frost is forecast and potatoes stand to get clobbered, do whatever you can to protect them. Cover the area in a few layers of warming fleece or row cover fabric, cover clusters of shoots with pots, or draw up the soil to bury the young shoots. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from cliparting.com Good morning, 36 degrees at 9:30 AM with prediction of a high today 55 degrees. Partly cloudy skies, but right now it is more sun that clouds. Yes it is Feb 5th. ENOY this weather.
You can read the March predictions to see what you think we will have here in the Midwest. Let me know what you think. I am leaning towards not an early spring as it will be near to below average temperatures for us in March. What do you think? Enjoy and stay safe. March 2024 Weather Predictions We expect an early start to spring across much of the U.S., with above-average March temperatures along the East Coast (except for Florida), in the eastern Ohio Valley and Great Lakes, from the Deep South up into Texas and Oklahoma, on the West Coast, and in Alaska. Near- to below-average temperatures are largely anticipated elsewhere. Look for a warmer-than-normal month in most of Canada, except for southern Ontario, the eastern Prairies, and the Northwest Territories. Early spring will continue into April and May, with near- to above-average temps arriving in much of the U.S.; however, the western Ohio Valley, Upper Midwest, and portions of the Plains will be cooler than normal. Spring Weather On the Way Spring starts officially on Tuesday, March 19, 2024—the date of the spring equinox! But it looks like the weather may be spring-like before that! Taken from https://www.almanac.com/march-forecast Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from churchof jesuschrist.org Good morning, the temperature is 27 and right now at 7:30 AM I can see the sun with very few clouds. Weather man said the clouds will move in. That 27 degrees in our normal high for this time of year. We are to have temperatures in at 40 degrees. It is still very mild and enjoyable.
Have you noticed that we are having more daylight? Found this article interesting to consider what we will gain in Feb. and what will happen in March with our increase sunlight. Spring will come I promise. . Enjoy the increasing daylight—only a minute per day (soon two) Speaking of chill, the most obvious and life-affecting winter change these days is in the length of daylight. We had our earliest sunset (darkest afternoon) on December 7, and then saw our darkest morning (latest sunrise) during the first week of January. How it all fits together to deliver hours and minutes of daylight boils down to the very darkest day being the recent solstice on December 21. The increase in sunlight was just a few seconds per day at first. In late January, the gain in daylight reached more than a minute per day. But it’s now changing quickly. In just a few weeks, we’ll be gaining over two minutes of daylight each day! When it reaches three minutes per day by the end of February, it’ll remain glued to that same rapid sunshine-growth right through April. And that’s the visible change the greatest number of us will be aware of. We won’t even care when June and July glue that darkness/daylight ratio in place so that, until late in summer, there’s barely any further change to observe. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/7-changes-earth-marches-slowly-towards-spring Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 |
AuthorHi! My name is Becky and I am a Master Gardener. I own Becky's Greenhouse in Dougherty, Iowa. Archives
March 2024
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