image from webstockreview.net 

     Good morning.  Temperature is 25 degrees with a clear, blue sky.  This is at 7:36 AM  Sorry didn’t post yesterday working in the greenhouse.  I want to take the time to wish our mother Addie Bechtel Kerndt a birthday on March 23.  She was born in 1908.  She gave us in the family lots of memories, and was a source of who we are today.  Happy Birthday MOM

I am just going to tell you that I have been awake since 4 AM.  I worked a full day of planting all ready.  I had to decide what all of us are going to plant.  There will be 4 of us planting today.  I had to decide what to plant them in “ the size of the container”  if it is a 4 pack, single then will it be in a 3”, 4” or 4 ½” pot.  Does it make a nice basket?  Then where will we put the plants in the greenhouse.  So got that decided for today.  I make up planting sheets with all of this information ( which I still need to do).  We are in full production of planting, and you would say that too when you see all the plug trays to be planted. 

Sun is shining so the greenhouse will warm up quickly.  We will open up doors to keep it comfortable.  Without opening the doors 100 degrees would be the temperature.  TOO warm to plant for sure, and the young plants don’t like it that warm.  Might have to start the fans to help keep it cooler.

I do all the watering at this stage.  That is daily on the list 7 days a week.  I grew up help milking cows, so feel this is what I am doing with the greenhouse.  

Tomorrow I am a presenter at the NIACC gardening seminar. Gardening and YOU…  Also we will be setting up a table for Market place.  It will be great to see the gardeners and all will be excited about planting and SPRING. 
​
With all to do, I am making this short but ending with this poem.
The gardener doesn’t mind the rain,
The gardener doesn’t mind the pain.
And even when the weather’s hot,
She’d rather work outside than not.
Even weeding has its pleasure.
Making room for floral treasures.
The gardener doesn’t count time lost:
She only minds an early frost.
Alma Ruth, American poet 1928
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

Pinterest.com 

​Good morning…whoops it is noon already.  Temperature is 31 with possible cloudy skies with a high of 42 degrees, low tonight of 24 degrees.  We received 2 inches of snow over night and we surprised we got that much.  The roads, blacktop areas are melting but we have white ground.  It would have been my mother’s birthday, and on this date we have more snow than not, so not surprised. Happy Heavenly birthday to you mom. 
 
I am posting about tulips and not in the planting as much as the care this spring with them.  You will find it interesting what to do after they have bloomed.  I promise soon we will see the tulips and daffodils blooming. 
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Tulips  by Catherine Boeckmann
Long live the tulip! These beautiful jewels brighten our days in spring. We truly look forward to seeing those blue-green leaves start to emerge as the earth awakens from its winter sleep! Here are our tips on how to care for tulips.
About Tulips
Tulips normally begin emerging from the ground in late winter or early spring. If unseasonably mild weather causes premature growth in winter, the danger is not as great as it may seem. Tulips (and daffodils, too) are quite cold tolerant. If freezing winter temperatures return, it may delay growth, however. Snow is actually helpful in this case, as it can insulate the foliage from extreme cold.
Plant in the Fall for Spring Blooms!
Tulip bulbs are planted in the autumn before the ground freezes. By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors and most are excellent for use as cut flowers, too.
Tulip flowers are usually cup-shaped with three petals and three sepals. There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders. The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet. One tulip grows on each stem, with two to six broad leaves per plant.
Are Tulips Annual or Perennial Bulbs?
Although tulips are technically a perennial, many centuries of hybridizing means that the bulb’s ability to come back year after year has weakened. Therefore, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in the western mountainous regions of the U.S. come closest to this climate, and may have more success perennializing their tulips.
GROWING
If it rains weekly, do not water. However, if there is a dry spell and it does not rain, you should water the bulbs weekly until the ground freezes.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed unless in a drought. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or any other rough material to the soil to foster swift drainage.
Apply compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
In the spring, when leaves emerge, feed your tulip the same bulb food or bone meal which you used at planting time. Water well.
Deadhead tulips as soon as they go by, but do not remove the leaves!
Allow the leaves to remain on the plants for about 6 weeks after flowering. The tulips need their foliage to gather energy for next year’s blooms! After the foliage turns yellow and dies back, it can be pruned off.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
WIT AND WISDOM
Did you know: If you dig up a tulip bulb in late summer, it’s probably not the same bulb you planted last fall. It’s her daughter. Even while the tulip is blossoming, the bulb is dividing for the next generation.
To get the longest vase life, cut tulip stems diagonally, then wrap the upper two-thirds of the flowers in a funnel of newspaper and stand them in cool water for an hour or two. Then, recut the stems and the tulips will last at least a week.
In 17th-century Holland, the new tulip was such the rage and fashion that a handful of bulbs was worth about $44,000.
Red tulips symbolize a declaration of love.
Taken https://www.almanac.com/plant/tulips
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse,Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from Pinterest...Happy dance about the weather today.  

       Good morning and it is.  Blue, clear sky with temperature now wait for it.  43 degrees. High today 56, low of 40.  Alexa said we can expect lots of clouds, but not right now at 10:00 AM.  Enjoy the day.  Stay safe. 
 
Can I plant this plant here?  Is often asked of me.  I look at the information and see what zone it is.  We are in zone 5 but some zone 5 plants will not winter over.  They will grow like an annual but not survive our winter.  Here is information on planting zones. 
Get in the Zone: Two Truths (and a Lie) about Zone Maps
How-to, Planning and Design, Planting Tips
Have you ever returned from a trip, determined to recreate that tropical vacation vibe in your northern backyard? Or maybe you hope to grow lilacs, like those that filled the vase on your grandmother’s kitchen table—but aren’t sure they’ll flourish in your southern garden. While it’s easy to drool over the latest, greatest plants featured in magazines, catalogs and websites, how do you know which plants will thrive in your area—and which ones will struggle to live up to your expectations?
What’s a Hardiness Zone Map?
You’ve probably heard about a plant’s hardiness zone—but what exactly does that mean? And how do you determine your gardening zone? A hardiness zone refers to a geographic area with a certain average minimum temperature, a factor that predicts the survival of many plants. Growers typically include a plant’s hardiness zone on the plant’s tag, as well as listing its hardiness zone on the company’s website or in catalogs.
But how do you know the hardiness zone for where you garden? The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (PHZM) shows the 13 hardiness zones throughout the United States (zones 12 and 13 are relatively new additions for Puerto Rico and Hawaii), broken into subzones—for instance, zones 7a and 7b. Data is collected for a 30-year period from 7,983 temperature stations to create the hardiness zone map. The data is reviewed by a team of climatologists, agricultural meteorologists, and horticultural experts, double-checking the data for errors or biases. There’s a lot of science and expertise behind a map we often take for granted. By entering your zip code here, you’ll find your hardiness zone.
Easy peasy, right?
But is your hardiness zone absolute? Are there any factors that might make it hotter or colder than indicated on the USDA PHZM—and can you cheat the system, by adding plants outside your zone? And if you abide by the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, are your plants guaranteed to grow and flourish?
To answer these questions, let’s play a little game called “Two Truths and a Lie”—about hardiness zones! Read each statement, make your guess, and then find out if it’s a truth or a lie regarding hardiness zones.
Truth or Lie? A Hardiness Zone May Contain Hotter or Colder Areas Within It
Based on the average annual extreme minimum temperatures during a 30-year period in the past—not just the lowest temperature—hardiness zones provide a good indicator for plant survival. However, in every hardiness zone, hotter or colder temperatures may appear, meaning that plants listed for other zones might grow well within these areas.
Higher and lower temperatures in a zone
Areas within zones can sport higher or lower temperatures, along with “microclimates” that can be found in individual gardens. For instance, cities tend to be slightly warmer than the surrounding zone, as they hold more heat due to the large amounts of blacktop and concrete. A city might even be listed as a warmer zone than the surrounding countryside. Likewise, higher elevations tend to be colder than surrounding lower-lying areas, so the top of a mountain may be a colder zone than the town just below it.
Large bodies of water can change the zone
Even large, unfrozen bodies of water can impact an area’s hardiness zone. Areas adjacent to bodies of water stay a bit warmer in winter and cooler in summer because water moderates the air temperatures.
Along with zone deviations within a region, you might find microclimates in your garden—pockets that are warmer or cooler than the general zone for your area or the rest of your yard.
Beginner Tip for the New Gardener
A microclimate is an area with fine-scale climate variations, like a warmer pocket caused by nearby blacktop and concrete, or a cooler spot in a hill or valley. An entire yard can be slightly warmer or cooler than the surrounding area because it is sheltered or enclosed. Microclimates can also differ from the surrounding area in terms of light exposure, moisture levels, wind, and soil.
Tropical Plants by a wall is a warmer microclimate - National Garden Buurea
A sheltered area in front of a south-facing wall or a low spot where cold air collects—these microclimates offer you the chance to “push” your zone a bit. Zone pushing is an effort to grow plants in your garden that shouldn’t survive in your climate based on their hardiness zone.
However, if you’re dying to grow a crape myrtle in your zone 5 garden, finding the warmest microclimate might yield a happy payout for your gamble. But just like throwing the dice at the craps table, zone pushing requires strong nerves, because not all gambles win. (Still, it’s a sweet reward when they do!)
So, if you guessed that hardiness zones can vary in temperature, you’re correct!
Beginner Tip for the New Gardener
When determining microclimates in your garden, look for areas that are slightly different than the surrounding landscape. Cold air pools in depressions, making low-lying areas of a yard colder than level areas. Areas next to houses or other buildings tend to be slightly warmer, as the structures absorb heat during the day and radiate it back out at night. Walls, driveways, and patios also absorb heat, making the spaces near them slightly warmer.
Truth or Lie? It’s OK to Ignore Hardiness Zones
If you’re dying to create a tropical staycation on your patio but live in zone 3a, don’t fret: you can enjoy lush, lovely foliage and fabulous flowers in your serene space by breaking the hardiness zone rules.
Out-of-zone goodies
Before you load your cart with out-of-zone goodies, however, make sure you’ve thought through your gardening goals. If you’re OK treating warm-zone plants as annuals in your cold-zone garden, load up! Enjoy a summer-long treat of a gorgeous, tropical oasis. Just keep in mind that those lovelies will most likely be a “one-and-done.” It’s a rare tropical plant that survives grown in-ground where low temperatures average -40 degrees in winter.
Treat as annuals
If you’re enamored with plants that aren’t hardy in your zone, enjoy them as annuals. Or, if you’re looking to add plants that are just slightly outside your zone—maybe a 6b plant in a 7a garden—take advantage of your garden’s microclimates. Positioning plants in sheltered spots or areas with radiant warmth may help a “zone-pushed” plant survive and thrive.
Grow out-of-zone plants in containers
Growing out-of-zone plants in containers seems like an easy way to enjoy your favorites without fuss. And, if you own a greenhouse or can provide warm shelter over winter for the containers, your plants may continue to thrive for years. However, many gardeners don’t realize that soil in pots typically drops to the same temperature as the surrounding air, while in-ground plants benefit from “bottom heat”—the geothermal heat below the soil. The temperature of the ground soil just a few inches deep can be more than 20 degrees warmer than the air temperature on a blustery, cold day. So, the roots of potted plants are less protected from cold than you might expect. Make sure to place container-grown, out-of-zone plants in a warm, sheltered spot over winter to help them survive.
If you’re a risk-taker, an eternal optimist, or you’re willing to spend your gardening budget on perennials that act like annuals in your zone, then yes: it’s OK to ignore hardiness zones!
Newer cultivars for other hardiness zones
Or, if you’re giddy for gardenias or crazy for camellias, look for newer cultivars developed for colder zones. Plant breeders continuously strive to push zones, creating hardy plants that flourish outside of their traditionally grown regions. While most gardenias, for example, are known for hardiness in zones 8-11, newer introductions push the border to zones 6 and 7.
And, for plants that typically need a long winter chill to bloom beautifully, like lilacs, newer cultivars are developed that thrive in warmer zones. If there’s a plant you covet, you just might find a new, hardy solution to your wishes!
National Garden Bureau Expert Tips
Do you know that National Garden Bureau members include the very best plant breeders and growers, who develop a wide range of cultivars that can push zones for traditionally grown plants? Newer cultivars may be bred for better cold or heat tolerance, allowing you to grow plants in your zone that previously weren’t an option due to extreme cold or heat. Thank goodness for our brilliant members!
Truth or Lie? All Plants Listed for My Hardiness Zone Will Grow Perfectly in My Garden
You’ve made a list, checked it twice…and limited your plant selections to those perfect for your hardiness zone. Your garden is guaranteed to grow beautifully, right?
Well…
Remember that hardiness zones are based on the average annual extreme minimum temperatures, not the coldest. And even plants perfectly defined for your hardiness zone can be injured by a sudden bout of extremely cold weather in fall before going dormant. Or a heat wave in mid-winter that tricks plants into breaking dormancy, followed by normal seasonably cold weather. Extreme, unusual temperatures make gardening a challenge, even when you play by the hardiness zone rules.
Many factors affect the success of your plants
Even without temperature fluctuations, many other factors contribute to the success or demise of plants. Wind, soil quality, moisture, pollution, humidity, light, competing plants—all of these environmental factors contribute to your garden’s success.
Knowing your garden = success!
The reality is: no hardiness zone map can take the place of knowing your garden—its microclimates, soil challenges, wind breaks, radiant heat, and competing plants. Hardiness zone maps provide a perfect start to help you make good plant selections, but hands-on experience gives you the best knowledge of what will survive—and thrive—in your garden.
Taken from https://ngb.org/zone-hardiness/
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  

image from wallpaperaccess.com 

​Good morning, we have wispy clouds up high in the sky, but I would say mostly clear right now. Temperature at 30 at 8:15AM with a high today of 54. I will have to see if we get that warm here in NC Iowa.  Low tonight of 30.  This is the first day of Spring, and I do believe it is going to feel like it.  ENJOY
 
Now these signs I like to see because nature is going to be on the mark when Spring starts. 
5 Signs of Spring: Birds, Peepers, Tree Buds, and More
Every year, we patiently look for the first signs of spring—leaves budding, birds singing, and butterflies migrating. Even if it’s still winter and the ground is covered in snow, observe closely! There are always subtle signs that spring is on the way. For example:
1. Birds are singing!
Backyard birds are one of the best predictors. There is a weather proverb that states, “Bluebirds are a sign of spring; warm weather and gentle south breezes they bring,” and this appears to be true in the northern tier of the United States. Bluebirds do not come north until all chance of winter has passed and they are assured an ample food supply.
We started hearing bird song in mid-February from chickadees, titmice, and red-winged blackbirds. The cardinals sing their “cheer, cheer, cheer” to say that we are turning a corner.
 
Many migrating birds are arriving as many as two weeks earlier compared to decades past (and some never leave!).
As the days gradually become lighter and temperatures start to lift, the chorus will become louder. In March, a chorus of birdsong fills the air as the migrating birds return. Warblers, sparrows, yellowthroat, and finch are more favorites. You may hear the knock of woodpeckers, too! Even ducks start to return to our lakes.
2. Trees are budding, sap is flowing!
Observe the buds on your trees. Some of the first trees to bud are the willows and silver maples, followed in March with the red maples.  Another sign is the flowing sap. The sugar sheds are firing up in New Hampshire!Mmm … there’s nothing like the taste of maple syrup, liquid gold! The first to notice seem to be the squirrels, who start poking around the trees looking for oozing sap.
3. Peepers are peeping
As soon as the ponds and wetlands thaw—as early as mid-March—listen for the spring peppers (Pseudacris crucifer) and the western chorus frog (Pseudacris triseriata). These tiny amphibians sing loudly, creating quite a chorus at dusk!
Like its name, the spring peeper tends to call a high single “peep!” Put all those spring peepers together and it’s a “peep, peep, peep, peep!” The call of the chorus frog is hard to describe. It sounds a little bit like someone is running their thumb along a comb.
These tiny frogs live beneath logs or underground and are freeze-tolerant, and tend to like moist, wooded areas, ponds, and wetlands.
As they emerge from hibernation and begin to spawn, look for the appearance of small jelly-like egg masses. While it may seem like there are an overabundance of tadpoles, most (up to 90%) do not survive do to predators.
4. Fresh, soft scents
Ever notice that entrancing smell of spring? The Earth is awakening and it does indeed smell more, well, earthy. With warmer weather, misty mornings and soft wet smells fill the air.
 
5. Butterflies and Bumblebees Return
As warmer weather returns, you may start to see butterflies and bumblebees return. Both are pollination wizards.
To encourage butterflies to reside in your garden, it’s best to include food sources in the form of host plants for caterpillars and nectar plants for butterflies. See our article on plants which attract butterflies to the garden.
We adore the slow, fat, gentle bumbles. The first bumblebees are the queens who survived the winter months. If you wish to attract butterflies and butterflies, be sure to have available flowers and plants.
What are the first signs of spring in your neck of the woods?
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/5-signs-spring-birds-peepers-and-tree-buds
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from pinterset.com 

      ​Happy St. Patrick’s Day!  Always a fun holiday when you live in an Irish community.  For this one day, I go by Becky O’Litterer.
IT is cold out there today.  The wind sounded awful last night blowing they said up to 50 mph.  Everything is fine this morning, but you always look around and see that it is.  Temperature at 9:30 AM is at 14 degrees clear, sky.  Cloudy sky with a high of 27 degrees and a low tonight of 7 degrees.  I know you all were ready for spring, but it is still the middle of March here in IOWA.  Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
Planting Peas, which I learned this season you can plant Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature: Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up.
Snow will not hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens might. Be prepared to plant again, if the first peas don’t make it. This I didn’t know.  BUT the secret here is if the garden itself is ready to plant and not too wet.  When do you put your peas in? 
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Peas  by The Editors
The sweet taste of glorious garden-grown peas is nothing like what you find in grocery stores. They are nature’s candy off the vine! Peas are one of the season’s first crops, planted as soon as the ground can be worked, even if snow falls afterwards. See our tips on growing peas, from sowing to harvest!
About Peas
Peas are very easy to grow but their growing period is very limited. It’s important to plant them early enough in spring so they mature while the weather is still cool. (This means planting in February, March, or April in most parts of the United States and Canada.) However, they can also be grown as a fall or winter crop in warmer regions.
Peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy their taste as soon as you can! Those peas in grocery stores are often starchy in taste which you’ll find has no comparison to garden-fresh peas.
Three varieties of peas suit most garden and culinary needs:
Sweet peas, aka garden peas or English peas (Pisum sativum ssp. sativum), have inedible pods from which the seeds (peas) are taken.
Snow peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon) produce edible, flat, stringless pods containing small peas.
Snap peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon ser. cv.) produce thick, edible pods containing large/full-size peas.
Great planting companions for peas include: Chives, Mint, Alyssum, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish, Turnip and Beans. Learn more about Companion Planting.
PLANTING
Select a sunny location and well-draining soil. Although peas can grow in part shade, they won’t be as sweet or productive as those grown in full sun. Prepare the soil, preferable in the fall, mixing in aged manure and/or compost, and much well. Peas like well-draining soil.
When to Plant Peas
Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature: Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up.
Snow will not hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens might. Be prepared to plant again, if the first peas don’t make it. Alternatively, try starting your peas in a cold frame.
A second round of peas can be planted in the late summer or early fall, approximately 6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost date.
Here are some more tips on when to start planting peas.
How to Plant Peas
Peas are best direct-seeded right in the ground and do not like their roots disturbed. But transplanting is possible, if you start seeds in biodegradable pots; you’ll transplant the pot and all into the garden and the pot will disintegrate.
Where spring is long and wet, plant seeds in raised garden beds.
To speed germination, soak seeds in water overnight before planting.
Sow seeds 1 inch deep (slightly deeper if soil is dry) and about 2 inches apart. Do not thin.
Plant rows 7 inches apart.
In terms of crop rotation, do not plant peas in the same place more than once every 4 years.
Pea roots, like those of other legumes, fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants.
In terms of fertilizer, peas need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen will encourage foliage growth instead of flowers or pods. Learn more about soil amendments.
Bush peas can reach 18 to 30 inches tall.  Pole types can grow at least 4 to 6 feet tall. Both types benefit from support (especially bush peas above 2 feet and all pole peas). Install thin tree branches or twiggy sticks (pea sticks), trellises, chicken wire, strings, or netting before plants establish their shallow roots. See instructions on how to build trellises and supports for peas.
Water to keep the soil moist. If seeds wash out of the soil, poke them back into it.
GROWING
Water peas sparsely with no more than 1 inch per week, unless plants are wilting. We don’t want to encourage pea rot. But also do not let the plants dry out. If this happens, no pods will be produced.
Gently remove intrusive weeds by hand. If necessary, hoe or cultivate, but do so very carefully to avoid disturbing peas’ shallow, fragile roots.
Pea leaves turn yellow for several reasons. Often, this is due to the stress of hot weather. Provide partial shade (e.g., row covers) during the hottest time of day and water properly.
Fertilizing plants is not usually required if the plants are mulched deeply with grass clippings, shredded leaves, or another biodegradable material.
HARVESTING
How do you know when peas are ready to be picked?
Most varieties of peas are ready to harvest 60 to 70 days after planting. Peas mature quickly, so check daily once you see the flowers in bloom.
Pick snow peas when the delicate pods begin to show immature seeds inside.
Gather snap peas when the pods become plump, yet are still glossy and filled with sweet-tasting peas.
Pick shell peas before the pods become waxy.
How to Harvest Peas
Harvest peas in the morning after the dew has dried. They are crispiest then.
Harvest regularly to encourage more pods to develop.
Use two hands when you pick peas to avoid damaging the plant. Hold the vine with one hand and pull pods off with the other.
Peas are at the peak of flavor immediately after harvest.
Pea pods that have hardened or turned a dull color are over mature. Mature plants usually stop producing and die back in hot summer weather.
If you missed your peas’ peak period, you can still pick, dry, and shell them for use in winter soups.
How to Store Peas
Store peas in the refrigerator for about 5 days: Place in paper bags, then wrap in plastic.
Or, freeze peas: Shell sweet peas, blanch, immerse in cold water, drain, and pack in sealed containers.
De-string/trim snow or snap peas and prepare as above.
WIT AND WISDOM
If a girl finds nine peas in a pod, the next bachelor she meets will become her husband.
According to folklore, St. Patrick’s Day is the traditional day for planting peas (in many regions).
Legend has it that the phrase “green thumb” originated during the reign of King Edward I of England, who was fond of green peas and kept six serfs shelling them during the season. The serf who had the greenest thumb won a prize!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/peas till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from blogspot.com 

Morning.  It is starting to rain, good thing the temperature is at 40 degrees but a high only of 42. Rain, snow most of the day.   Low tonight of 17.  NW wind coming up, and we are in a wind advisory.  Wind chill will make it feel below zero tonight.  Stay warm, stay safe.
Easter to me is early.  It is April 9th, so that makes Good Friday April 7th.  Old wives tale, and our parents and Grandparents planted potatoes on Good Friday.  Now read the next section on when to plant.  Will April 7th meet these requirements?

1. 2 to 4 weeks before our last frost date which is May 15
2. Soil temperature is at least 55 degrees
3. The soil should not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work with. 

I will let you decide when to plant your potatoes.  I am getting the seed potatoes and onion sets next week March 21st, so you can stop and pick some up when it is ready to plant them. 
Also this is the first time I have read about planting potatoes in a container, that you add soil as the potatoes grow.  Give some thought about that!
​
When to Plant Potatoes
Garden potatoes can be planted 2 to 4 weeks before the  average last frost date. The soil temperature should be at least 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. But pay more attention to the soil than the calendar to determine planting time. The soil should not be so wet that it sticks together and is hard to work. Let it dry out a bit first. If you have a late and wet spring, you can plant later—through April (depending on location) or even June, especially in containers.
In cooler regions, the early-maturing potatoes are usually planted early to mid-April. In warmer regions, planting times range from September to February; in central Florida, gardeners plant potatoes in January, and in Georgia they plant in February.
How to Plant Potatoes
Potatoes for planting are called ‘seed potatoes’ and usually sold in bags or netting. Use certified (disease-resistant) seed potatoes from which eyes (buds) protrude. (Do not confuse seed potatoes with potato seeds or grocery produce.)
The moment you get them, break them free, lay them out in a tray (such as an old egg carton) and pop them somewhere bright and frost-free to sprout – such as an indoor windowsill. This is a process called ‘chitting’. It’s not essential, but chitting helps speed things along a bit so that by the time they’re planted they’ll be primed and itching to send out roots.
A great way to get more seed potatoes for free, is to cut them in half. But only do this if they’ve got plenty of “eyes” which appear as small dimples and are where the sprouts emerge from. You want to put the end of the potatoes with the most eyes facing upwards for this reason.
At least 2 days ahead of planting, use a clean, sharp paring knife to cut large potatoes into golf ball-size pieces, with 1 to 2 eyes each. This time allows the pieces to heal, or form a protective layer over the cut surface, improving both moisture retention and rot resistance. Do not cut up seed potatoes that are smaller than a hen’s egg; plant them whole.
Plant Potatoes in Pots: If you don’t have the garden space, plant in large containers, old compost sacks or purpose-sold potato sacks. Fill the bottom of your pot or sack with about 4 inches (10 cm) of potting mix then lay one or two potatoes on top and cover. Once the foliage is growing, add in more potting mix, a bit at a time, to hill or earth them up until the soil level reaches the top at which point the foliage almost seems to explode in size.
GROWING
Watering Potatoes: Firstly, water! This is really important because potatoes are lush and leafy plants, and those tubers take a lot of effort to swell. So if it’s dry, water thoroughly. Maintain even moisture, especially from the time after the flowers bloom. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Too much water right after planting and not enough as the potatoes begin to form can cause them to become misshapen. Stop watering when the foliage begins to turn yellow and die off.
If you’re growing in containers, take extra care to keep your plants really well watered, especially in warmer weather, as this really will make all the difference in achieving a good crop.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

taken from farmfoodfamily.com 

image from Dengarden.com 

      Good morning, winter is back today.  All night the wind blow from the NW and it sounded like winter.  Temperature at 7:00 AM is at 22 degrees with clouds off and on.  Today’s high of 27 degrees with a low of 6.  I am getting a delivery today of plugs, we will unload quickly for sure.  Stay warm. 
​
Now any of you have done this with keeping rabbits out of a garden.  Never heard of it before legend has it that rabbits are terrified of their own reflection, so try an old-time rabbit remedy and place large, clear glass jars of water throughout the garden.  Here are some other ideas.  Good luck with the rabbits.  They love your newly planted garden. 
How to Identify and Get Rid of Rabbits
Got rabbits? These small mammals can do a number on young plants, so prevention is paramount. Aside from fencing, there are a number of old-time remedies and other solutions that will keep them out of the garden patch! Plus, see a list of plants that rabbits tend to ignore.
Why Would You Keep Rabbits Away?
Anyone who tills the soil regards the rabbit as more than just a cute threat to the carrot patch. This long-eared animal possesses a voracious appetite for all kinds of fresh vegetation—woody plants, perennials, annuals, vegetables, and berries. In fact, a menu of rabbit favorites is so ridiculously long that it’s easier to list the few plants that they don’t enjoy.
Rabbits also have an extremely high reproductive potential, which is why keeping them around might quickly cause a total garden infestation. They can produce up to three litters of six babies each per year in the north, and up to six litters of three babies each per year in the south. The first litter appears in March in the north, year-round elsewhere. The gestation period is 29 days. That’s only about eight days more than it takes a chicken egg to hatch!
Your backyard bunny’s primary concern is to eat without being eaten, a difficult task given that rabbits are relished by more than two dozen species of predators. Nibbling your petunias is therefore not a carefree picnic but a danger-fraught mission. However, if your neighborhood bunny can squeeze through a hole in your garden fence, it will find a time to be able to munch in safety.
You can check our tips for keeping your plants safe from rabbits, but try to regard rabbits as Beatrix Potter did—part of a peaceful, pastoral landscape. Then protect the plants that you and the bunnies really love, and don’t worry about the rest.
IDENTIFICATION
How to Identify Rabbits in your Garden
Of the nine species of North American cottontail rabbits, it’s the eastern cottontail (Sylvilagus floridanus) that is our most abundant and annoying. Ranging from Boston to Boulder and south into Mexico, this bunny-about-town is rarely found in forests; preferring instead brushy fence rows, field edges, brush piles, and—you guessed it—landscaped backyards. Its fondness for flowers, vegetables, bark, and bulbs often results in pruned peppers and clipped cosmos.
Even though its nicknames are adorable (among them bunny, bunny rabbit, and cottontail), and you’ll probably want to befriend it once you see its cute ears, the eastern cottontail can be a bothersome pest. It is gray or brownish, with a short tail and big ears. It can weigh 2 to 4 pounds, be 15 to 19 inches in length, and live for 12 to 15 months. Its vocal call is almost silent, but it will emit a scream when threatened. Its famous features include a short white tail resembling a cotton ball and long, tapered ears.
For an eastern cottontail, security is a pile of brush, leaves, or another animal’s abandoned burrow. Unlike their European cousins, these rabbits do not dig intricate burrows or warrens but make due with what they find. Rabbits rarely leave their shelters in broad daylight, preferring instead early morning or evening. Like most animals, they are sensitive to the change in day length as spring approaches. For rabbits, the longer days signal the start of two things: breeding season and spring dining.
Rabbit Damage
Rabbits are voracious eaters and leave clean-cut damage. Check the leaves and stems of your plants for cleanly cut damage; insects and other pests usually leave jagged edges on damaged plants. This clean-cut damage often happens at ground level, as rabbits tend to eat the yummy green shoots of tulips and other plants.
These low mowers graze close to the ground and sniff out the first tender young shoots and crop them short. They love to munch on flowers, clover, peas, lettuce, beans, and more. Many of these plants are also the favorites of woodchucks or groundhogs, so check for burrows before deciding you have rabbit damage. Once your plants have passed the seedling stage, they are usually safe from rabbit damage.
Although bunny nibbling occurs in every season, it’s especially discouraging in the early spring when rabbits mercilessly munch the tender green shoots of plants. As a Connecticut gardener remembers, “My tulips were just poking through the snow when suddenly it looked like they’d been weed-whacked. Cut clean off! I blame the bunnies—their little paw prints were everywhere.”
CONTROL AND PREVENTION
How to Prevent Rabbits
The best way to keep rabbits out of the garden and prevent rabbit damage is to use physical prevention methods such as fencing. Though we’ve mostly been discussing eastern cottontails, keep in mind—these tips should work for any type of rabbit that loves to munch on your plants!
The most effective way of keeping out rabbits is chicken wire fencing. Install a fence that is 4 feet high and bury it at least 6 inches deep. Bend the top foot of the fence away from the garden like a security fence, so that they can’t climb or jump over it.
For bulbs, try a dome or cage of chicken wire secured over the bed.
Focus on keeping rabbits from setting foot in your garden to begin with. Many old-time remedies rely on spreading various products around the perimeter of the garden such as dried blood meal or human hair. Sprinkle dried blood meal on the surface around all your plants as early in the season as you can, and repeat after a heavy rain. (Note: If you have dogs, don’t try this method because they might be attracted to the scent and start digging up your garden themselves!)
Rabbits don’t like to stray far from their shelters, so try to reduce the possible rabbit homes around your yard. Rake away piles of brush and leaves, fill in abandoned burrows, and seal any holes under sheds or structures. If a rabbit doesn’t have a place to live or hide nearby, hopefully it won’t stay and munch. Rabbits will also breed much more if they have a good habitat available—all the more reason to have no vacancy!
How to Get Rid of Rabbits in the Garden
If rabbits have already found their way into your veggie patch, it’s time to try some techniques to discourage them from staying.
As their twitching noses indicate, rabbits sniff a lot. Try sprinkling dried sulfur around or on your plants. Rabbits also dislike the smell of onions, so try planting these around your garden to further deter the furry creatures.
To discourage pesky rabbits, try dusting your plants with plain talcum powder.
Since rabbits are such great sniffers, powdered red pepper sprinkled around the garden or on targeted plants may keep them out.
Irish Spring soap shavings placed in little drawstring bags around the garden have been said to help keep rabbits away.
Make a bad-tasting rabbit cocktail by grinding together three hot peppers, three large onions, and one whole bunch of garlic. Add water to cover, and place into a covered container overnight. Strain, and then add enough additional water to make a gallon of the mixture. Spray onto plants, repeating after rainfall. Commercial products using pungent garlic oil are also worth a try.
Spray around your plants with a mixture of 1 teaspoon Lysol and 1 gallon of water.
Some people protect plants with individual “collars” of tin cans or screening so that the plants may reach a less vulnerable size. Put the collar around each stem for protection.
Use cylinders of 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth to keep rabbits from nibbling on young fruit and landscape trees. The cylinders should extend higher than a rabbit’s reach while the rabbit is standing on the expected depth of snow, and they should stand one to two inches out from the tree trunk.
Some of the deer techniques related to odor are also said to work against rabbits. Deter rabbits with commercially-available deer repellents that contain a mixture of dried bovine blood, sulfured eggs, and garlic.
Legend has it that rabbits are terrified of their own reflection, so try an old-time rabbit remedy and place large, clear glass jars of water throughout the garden. Garden centers sell ready-made reflectors, as well as other devices—crouching cats, fake snakes, menacing owls—designed to frighten bunnies away from your plants.
Sometimes, humane traps are the best solution. (Note that trapping and releasing wild animals may be against the law in your area, however.) If you don’t want to buy a trap, consider building one. Place the trap where you’ve seen the rabbits feeding or resting, and cover it with a piece of canvas. Apples, carrots, cabbage, and other fresh green veggies make excellent bait.
Plants That Rabbits Dislike
According to bunny experts, rabbits have plant preferences based on taste, nutritive value, the presence of poison or prickles, and ease of availability. Their tastes in food can also vary by region and season, so not all plants work for all rabbits. Be tricky and tend plants that rabbits don’t find very appetizing.
Rabbits tend to avoid some of the same plants as deer and Japanese beetles. If you’d like to control all these pests, check our list of deer-resistant plants and best and worst plants for Japanese beetles to know which plants might do best. Choose plants such as forsythia, lilac bush, zinnias, daffodils, lavender, and snapdragons for rabbits. This might help to reduce your rabbit population. This is not a guaranteed solution, as hungry rabbits will eat almost anything, but filling your garden with these plants might make your garden less appetizing than another one. Here are more plants that rabbits dislike:
WOODY PLANTS
Azalea (Rhododendron sp.)
Boxwood (Buxus sp.)
Bush cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster sp.)
Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
Rhododendron (Rhododendron sp.)
Tatarian dogwood (Cornus alba)
Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
PERENNIALS
Adam’s needle (Yucca filamentosa)
Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera)
Foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia)
Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina)
Meadow rue (Thalictrum rochebrunianum)
Peony (Paeonia hybrids)
Perennial salvia ‘East Friesland’ (Salvia x superba)
Primrose (Primula x polyantha)
Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Sedum)
Speedwell (Veronica sp.)
Spring cinquefoil (Potentilla verna)
Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis)
ANNUALS
Four o’clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa)
Geranium, zonal and bedding (Pelargonium x hortorum)
Mexican ageratum (Ageratum houstonianum)
Spiderflower (Cleome hasslerana)
Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
Wax begonia (Begonia x semperflorens-cultorum)
BULBS
Daffodil (Narcissus sp.)
Hyacinth (Hyacinth orientalis)
Persian onion (Allium giganteum)
VEGETABLES
Asparagus
Leeks
Onions
Potatoes
Rhubarb
Summer squash
Tomatoes
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/pest/rabbits
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-903-9365 cell 641-794-3337 

image from pinterest.com 

      Almost can say good afternoon.  We had moisture all day yesterday, but it melted then last night the flakes of snow stuck.  I would say we had a couple of inches.  In moving the snow today, it is melting after it the snow has been moved.  We didn’t get the 4 to 6 inches. Now the meteorologists are saying snow Saturday afternoon till Sunday morning.  Haven’t heard any totals, this will be the one that gives us lots of snow.  See what happens.  Temperature at noon today is at 32 degrees.  Cloudy skies with lots of clouds, high today of only 34 degrees and a low tonight of 27.  Stay safe…drive carefully as there is slush on the roads. 

When to Cut Back Irises  By BARBARA GILLETTE
This author is going to tell you in the fall, but if you haven't done it.  It is ok to do it this spring.  Need to get that old growth off the plant crown. 
Irises come in a variety of forms and colors with large, showy blooms that make them one of the most popular flowering plants in gardens across the globe. Fairly easy to grow and care for, these spring blooming, perennial rhizomes do require annual pruning to keep them healthy and able to put on the flower display for which all types of iris are so-well known.
Why You Should Cut Back Irises
Maintaining the thick-spathe type leaves of the iris and removing spent flower stems are important for several reasons.
Most varieties send up a flower stalk with several blooms that open incrementally. It isn't necessary to deadhead individual spent blooms, but you do want to remove the stalk at the base once the two to three week bloom period has ended. Stalks with wilted blooms or bare of any bloom aren't attractive and detract from the foliage which, by itself, adds form and glossy green color in the flower garden.
The spent flowers also will direct energy into producing seedheads. While this is perfectly okay, it does divert the plant's energy from producing new leaves; a necessary function that insures a good flowering period the following year.1
Pruning or trimming the foliage protects the plant from fungal and bacterial diseases caused by too much moisture on the leaves. Irises are vulnerable to blight, leaf spot and soft rot. Left to overwinter, they are also vulnerable to a major iris pest-the iris borer. The adult (a brown moth) lays eggs which overwinter in dead foliage. Larvae hatch in spring and eat through the leaves eventually boring into the plant's rhizome causing rot.
Proper pruning allows the opportunity to inspect your plants, remove any diseased or dead leaves and check for insect pests.
A number of iris species and types belong to the family Iridaceae. Most grow from rhizomes although there are a few bulb types. Regardless of the iris variety you choose for your garden, steps for cutting back remain the same.
How to Cut Back for Best Blooms
Irises rhizomes and bulbs store energy needed to develop new leaves which are the key element for consistent bloom. This energy is generated through photosynthesis in the plant's long, thick, narrow leaves and allows the rhizome or bulb to begin producing new leaves to support next season's bloom period.1 Cutting back the leaves the correct way at the right time, along with dividing your iris every two to three years, are the best ways to achieve consistent annual bloom.
Remove Spent Flower Stalks
Bearded Iris, one of the most popular types, often sends up a second bloom in the fall. Regardless of variety, whenever your iris has completed it's bloom cycle, the plant benefits from removing spent stalks. Use a sterile hand pruner or clipper to cut the stalk at it base. Angled cuts are best because they allow for water run-off which helps prevent moisture-based disease.
Fan Trim in Mid-Fall
Fall is the time to trim back the clump of iris leaves which continue to produce energy as long as temperatures remain above freezing. The fan trim is a good garden practice for maintaining and encouraging consistent annual blooming. Clean, sterile scissors, hand trimmers or a small garden shear all work well for this task. Starting in the middle of the clump, cut at a downward angle along each leaf. leaving a graduated fan shape of 4 to 5 inches tall at the peak. The outside leaves should be 2 to 3 inches tall. This fan shape helps keep leaves healthy by preventing moisture from accumulating in the center of the clump, but allows for continued photosynthesis. At this same time, go ahead and remove dried, discolored and diseased leaves.
Remove All Foliage After Frost
Once cold temperatures are consistent, most, if not all, of the iris leaves will die back naturally. Now dead foliage should be removed leaving just a half-inch to an inch above the rhizome. Use the angled cut and a sterile tool to cut back and avoid breaking or pulling the spent leaves since this can damage the rhizome.
This is a good time to run your hands over the plant's base. In a good sized iris clump you will find a number of rhizomes fairly close to the soil surface. Check for spent or soft ones and cut them out with your clean tool. Cut between the soft or damaged one and any healthy ones, lift it out and add it to your compost or dispose of it.
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/when-to-cut-back-irises-
Till next time this is Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from sfsalt.com 

      ​Good morning.  No moisture yet at 8:00 AM.  Winter storm warning is effect at noon.   3-6 inches they are predicting.  Heavy snow with wind…stay safe all and travel safely.  Temperature is 33 degrees, snowy weather, high of 37 and low tonight of 27 degrees. 
 
Now I am just the messenger in this information.  I always wondered about Epsom salt especially on tomatoes.  I know the ones that use it say it does help.  Here is what the author Robin Sweetser says about it. 
What Plants Don't Like Epsom Salt by Robin Sweetser
Many gardeners ask us about using Epsom salts in the garden: Which plants don’t like Epsom salts? Will Epsom salts kill plants? We’re here to tell you that Epsom salts are good for neither plants nor soil! Yes, it’s one of those gardening myths. Learn more about how Epsom salt works and also some alternatives.
Most gardeners love a reliable home remedy and are eager to embrace a magic bullet. This is the case with Epsom salts. They are supposed to make flowering plants bushier and blossom more and make peppers and tomatoes more productive. But are they really a miracle cure? Can Epsom salts be harmful? Let’s separate myth from reality.
What Is Epsom Salt?
Epsom salt is the chemical magnesium sulfate (MgSO4)—which means both magnesium (about 10%) and sulfur (about 13%).
Magnesium is needed by plants to generate the chlorophyll needed for photosynthesis. On a plant lacking magnesium, the older leaves will turn yellow between the veins and along the edges and growth will be stunted. Sandy, light, low pH soils are prone to magnesium deficiency. If your soil is quickly leached by rainfall and has a pH of 5.5 or less, it probably lacks sufficient magnesium. The addition of compost to raise the level of organic matter in the soil will help.
Sulfur is needed to form some vitamins and plant proteins. If a plant lacks sulfur the young leaves will turn yellow.  Sulfur also gives vegetables such as broccoli, onions, and mustard greens their flavors. Sulfur is seldom deficient in garden soils in North America so deficiencies are rare. Plus, if sulfur is overdone, it will build up in the soil and make it hard for plants to make use of the other nutrients they need. If you are lacking sulfur, manure is a good organic source.
Is Epsom Salt Good for Plants?
Bottom-line: No, epsom salt is not beneficial for plants.
One reason people use Epsom salts is to prevent blossom-end rot. This isn’t true. In fact, Epsom salts can be harmful! Why? Blossom-end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, not magnesium or sulfur deficiency. And adding too much magnesium to your soil can actually prevent calcium uptake!
 While many vegetables (leafy greens, beans, peas) can grow in soil with low magnesium levels, other plants including tomatoes, peppers, and roses need high levels of magnesium. So what if Epsom salt is added to the soil to correct large soil magnesium deficiencies? Unfortunately, horticultural studies (Auburn University, Delaware Valley College) prove that adding Epsom salts to the soil (directly or through watering) does not link to higher yield or healthier growth from peppers and tomatoes to roses. When it comes to your soil, do not rely on Epsom salts to adjust deficiencies in magnesium or sulfur! The only real way to know if your soil is lacking magnesium or sulfur is to test your soil. Here are 3 simple DIY soil tests. (Or, there are soil tests provided by your cooperative extension.) If you add Epsom salts to soil that already has sufficient magnesium, this can harm plants and contaminate soil.
 In addition, spraying Epsom salt solutions on plant leaves can also cause leaf scorch. Excess magnesium can also increase mineral contamination in water that percolates through soil. Remember that Epsom salt is a highly soluble chemical. When you use Epsom salts on plants, it can it will leach out of your soil fast, running into and polluting ponds and streams. The best practice is to avoid adding any extra chemicals to your soil—even things that seem ‘safe’— because you can easily do more harm than good.
Alternatives to Epsom Salt
Before heading to the drug store for some Epsom salts, get an OMRI-certified agricultural-grade magnesium sulfate or look for a slow-release form of magnesium that will have longer lasting effects such as magnesium-enriched biochar or kieserite. If your soil is acidic, dolomitic limestone will raise the pH and add magnesium.
Save the Epsom salts for soothing your tired aching body after a day in the garden!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/epsom-salt-garden-good-or-bad
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365