You can still plant cucumbers, and vine plants. Conditions are right.

image from fly.club

Still time to plant cucumbers, and vine plants. Conditions are right.  Good morning, cloudy morning in Dougherty but it makes for a good day to work inside the greenhouse and outside.  Even though we got over one inch of rain, these little pots of plants don’t hold much dirt, so they dry out quickly.  I am back to watering.  Your gardens if they got rain are ok, I am sure.  I don’t know about your container gardens if you are watering today.  Predicted to get more rain today but looks like it will be more south.  See what happens.   Mild temperatures so that will be nice for us to work in the gardeners and just be outside.  Have a cup of coffee around your plants that is the special time we think about this winter.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Sunday June 14th will have 60F(16C) with a chance of rain.  Evelyn said for Saturday they were to go to see the kids play but it might rain so they might not  go.  But otherwise, the weather has been good for them. Stay dry, stay warm, stay safe.

Cucumbers how are they growing?  It is finally the time to plant the vine plants.  Warm ground temperature, warm night temperatures and moisture.  Mine in the packs are growing well.  You can still plant, and that is what I am going to do.  Plant some vine plants in my garden of pots.  Here is some diseases to watch out for:

What’s green, crunchy, and the star of every summer salad? That’s right—cucumbers! Whether you’re dreaming of garden-fresh slices or homemade pickles, you’ll find growing cucumbers is surprisingly simple and seriously rewarding. From trellis-loving vines to patio-perfect bush varieties, there’s a cucumber plant for every space.
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers.
Vining cucumbers, the most common varieties, grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow best when trained up a trellis or fence. Since they grow off the ground, the fruits will be cleaner (versus those that grow directly atop soil), often more abundant, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers, however, are nicely suited to containers and small gardens.
Cucumber Pests and Diseases
Pest/Disease    Type     Symptoms        Control/Prevention
Anthracnose    Fungus Yellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, rot              Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost; use mulch; rotate crops
Aphids Insect   Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold   Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1–2% solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Blossom-end rot           Disorder            Dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (opposite stem) may enlarge and become sunken and leathery   Caused by lack of calcium in fruit, often due to roots failing to obtain sufficient water and/or nutrients. Remove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (around 6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; prevent root damage
Cucumber beetles        Insect   Holes in leaves/flowers; rasped fruit; plants stunted/die (Bacterial wilt signs: wilting; plants die; ends of cut stems, when pressed together for 10 seconds and pulled apart, release stringy, white sap)       Handpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt
Cucumber mosaic virus            Virus    Varies with plant, but may include stunting, mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruit              Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids; use mulch
Downy mildew              Fungus Yellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation            Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Powdery mildew          Fungus Typically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowers      Destroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Squash bugs     Insect   Many small, yellow/brown/black spots on leaves; wilt; scarred fruit         Handpick; crush yellow/bronze egg clusters on leaf undersides; lay boards on soil and check for pests underneath each morning; remove plant debris; use row covers; rotate crops
Whiteflies         Insect   Sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/ silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit viruses              remove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch
Little or No Fruit:
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually caused by a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers are usually all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time for fruit to set. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit; male flowers do not have this swelling at the base.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. Do rest assured; you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrid varieties (those that produce primarily female flowers) require companion cucumber plants with male flowers in order to produce fruit.
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse