We are outside and hardening off for you...said the tomatoes.

Question: The Tarheel State.  OK see if you know this?  I didn’t. 
(Name the U.S. state!)

     Friday not so nice as Thursday. We are overcast now, and looks like rain.  Question we will be saying all season.  WILL IT RAIN?    We didn’t put away the wagons last night as it was a low of 39.  They are getting hardened off for sure with the cool nights, wind we have had and even the rain.  Ready to go into your garden. 
So can I plant tomatoes?   This is in this article you would read this but this is when you should plant them.  We have tomatoes that are ready to go into your garden.  We have moved some outside to start the hardening off process, but greenhouse has some also.  They look really nice if I would say so.  Also still planting some for the 2nd and 3rd crop.
Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F.
GROWING TOMATOES FROM PLANTING TO HARVEST  By The Editors
Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!
ABOUT TOMATOES
There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.
Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!
In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO GROW A TOMATO?
This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.
In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.
Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.
TYPES OF TOMATOES
Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
 Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.
Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible.
PLANTING DATES FOR TOMATOES
PLANTING DATES FOR SPRING
On average, your last spring frost occurs on May 2 (at HAMPTON, IA climate station). Average but we know that it is later than that date.  I am afraid to say.
 PLANTING
Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.
Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.
STARTING TOMATOES FROM SEED
As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.
PLANTING THE TRANSPLANTS
Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F.
Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting.
When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
Water well to reduce shock to the roots.
Spacing for Tomatoes
GROWING TOMATOES IN CONTAINERS
Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom.
Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.
TOMATO PLANT CARE
Watering
Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.
Fertilizing
You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.
Pruning, pinching, staking
If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.
No flowers, no fruit?
If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.
Check out this post for even more tomato tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:
Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.
Tomato Pests
Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit
When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:
Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile.
Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.
Tomato Diseases and Problems
Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop; it’s common after rainfall or in humidity. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive.
Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW TO HARVEST TOMATOES
Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
HOW TO STORE TOMATOES
Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.
Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars.
‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer
Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)
‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields
Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)
‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.
Cherry Tomatoes
‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.
Large Tomatoes
Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking.
WIT & WISDOM
Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer  Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa  beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

Answer: North Carolina