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We are having some rainy weather this last weekend, and again today. The rain for us is going south but as close as Hampton. We are having clouds, and cooler temperatures but no rain. We are having gardeners stop and have a look. We have lots of variety of tomatoes and peppers. Our annual plants are looking good. Perennials are doing well. Shrubs and roses are 10.00 off this week. Hanging baskets are on sale. 10.00 or 12.00 Have you been looking for lemon grass? We have lots. We just took out lilies, daylilies from the greenhouse. We have hostas here. Are you looking for rhubarb plants, how about horseradish? We have them. We have lots of asparagus roots. Start a new bed or add to yours.
We have bulk seed for pole green beans in Blue Lake variety. I am hearing the gardeners are not finding the seeds in packets. We have them. .50 per Tablespoon
So how do you grow your green beans? Here is what the almanac says.
Green beans are a staple of so many vegetable gardens because they are so easy to grow—even in limited space—and incredibly productive! Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest green beans, including both the pole and bush types.
About Green Beans
All green beans (also called “string beans” or “snap beans”) are tender annuals. Though most green beans are indeed green, they also come in purple, red, yellow, and streaked varieties.
What’s the Difference Between Bush Beans and Pole Beans?
The main difference between the many types of green beans is whether their growing style is classified as “bush” or “pole.”
Bush beans generally require less maintenance due to their size, but pole beans typically yield more beans for longer and are mostly disease-resistant.
Bush beans produce in about 50 to 55 days; pole beans will take 55 to 65 days.
Bush beans often come in all at once, so stagger your plantings every two weeks to get a continuous harvest. Pole beans need their vines to grow and will produce for a month or two if you keep harvesting.
PLANTING
Beans grow best in well-draining soil with normal fertility and an acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). They don’t typically need supplemental fertilizer because they fix their own nitrogen in the soil. However, particularly poor soil should still be amended with aged manure or compost in the fall prior to planting (or about a week before planting in the spring).
Beans don’t like having their roots disturbed, so set up any supports for pole beans prior to planting.
When to Plant Beans
Beans grow best when direct-seeded outdoors. Sow any time after the last spring frost date, when soil have warmed to at least 48°F (9°C). Don’t plant too early, as cold, moist soil will delay germination and could cause the seeds to rot.
Tip: To get a head start on planting, place black plastic or landscaping fabric over your garden beds to warm the soil prior to sowing seeds.
Do not start green bean seeds indoors. Due to their fragile roots, they may not survive transplanting. Plus, they’re such fast growers that there’s no real advantage to starting them early indoors.
How to Plant Beans
Sow bush beans 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart.
Sow pole beans 1 inch deep, placing them around supports.
Tip: Plant pole and bush beans a little deeper in sandy soils, but not too deep. Seedlings cannot push through soil that is too deep, heavy, dense, packed, and/or mulched; they will break their “necks” in trying to emerge.
For pole beans, set up trellises, stakes, or other supports prior to planting so that the plants’ fragile roots are not disturbed.
One option is to create a tepee: Tie three or four (or more) 7-foot-long bamboo poles or long, straight branches together at the top and splay the legs in a circle. Then plant three or four seeds around each pole. As vines appear, train them to wind up the poles. For more stability, wrap string/wire around the poles about halfway up, encircling the tepee; this gives the vines something to grab.
Another easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
For a continued harvest that lasts all summer, sow seeds every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away and unable to harvest, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone!
Practice crop rotation (planting crops in different areas each year) to avoid the build up of pests and diseases in one spot.
GROWING
Mulch soil around bean plants to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained. Beans have shallow roots, so mulch keeps them cool.
Water regularly, about 2 inches per square foot per week. If you do not keep beans well watered, they will stop flowering. Water on sunny days so that foliage will not remain soaked, which could encourage disease.
If necessary, begin fertilizing after heavy bloom and the set of pods. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer or you will get lush foliage and few beans. A side dressing of compost or aged manure halfway through the growing season is a good alternative to liquid fertilizer.
Weed diligently but carefully to avoid disturbing the beans’ roots.
Pinch off the tops of pole bean vines when they reach the top of the support. This will force them to put energy into producing more pods instead.
In high heat, use row covers over young plants; hot weather can cause blossoms to drop from plants, reducing the harvest.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
When it comes to green beans, the options are endless. Here are several types and varieties to consider:
Chinese (aka Asian) long beans (aka yardlong or asparagus beans): slender, 1- to 2-foot pods. Try ‘Orient Wonder’, ‘Red Noodle’, or ‘Yardlong.’ All pole.
French green beans (aka filet or haricots verts): thin, tender, 3- to 5-inch pods. Try ‘Calima’, ‘Masai’, or ‘Maxibel’; in a container, plant ‘Mascotte’. All bush.
Italian/Romano: wide, flat 6- to 8-inch pods even in the hottest summers. Try ‘Early Bush Italian’, extra-large-pod ‘Jumbo’, or ‘Roma II’. All bush.
Purple beans: 5- to 6-inch pods are deep purpose when raw and turn green when cooked. Try ‘Amethyst’, ‘Royal Burgundy’, or ‘Velour’. All bush.
Snap beans (aka string or stringless): slender, 5- to 7-inch pods. Try ‘Blue Lake 274’ (bush), heirloom ‘Kentucky Wonder’ (bush or pole), or ‘Provider’ (bush).
Yellow wax beans: 5- to 7-inch pods have a milder flavor than green varieties. Try stringless ‘Cherokee’ (bush), classic ‘Golden Wax’ (bush), or ‘Monte Gusto’ (pole).
HARVESTING
Harvest beans in the morning when their sugar level is highest.
Pick green beans every day; the more you pick, the more beans grow.
Green beans are picked young and tender before the seeds inside have fully developed.
Look for firm, sizable pods that are firm and can be snapped—generally as thick as a pencil.
Snap or cut the beans off the plant, being careful not to tear the plant. Fresh beans should snap easily when broken.
Once you see the seeds inside bulging, green beans are past their peak and will taste tough.
How to Store Green Beans
Store beans in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Beans will toughen over time even when stored properly.
Alternatively, blanch and freeze immediately after harvesting.
Beans can also be canned or pickled.
WIT AND WISDOM
Beans are commonly used in everyday expressions to indicate something of little value. Something that “isn’t worth a hill of beans” is not worth much.
According to folklore, in order to get rid of a wart, rub it with a bean and cast the bean over your shoulder without looking back.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/beans
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365
We have bulk seed for pole green beans in Blue Lake variety. I am hearing the gardeners are not finding the seeds in packets. We have them. .50 per Tablespoon
So how do you grow your green beans? Here is what the almanac says.
Green beans are a staple of so many vegetable gardens because they are so easy to grow—even in limited space—and incredibly productive! Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest green beans, including both the pole and bush types.
About Green Beans
All green beans (also called “string beans” or “snap beans”) are tender annuals. Though most green beans are indeed green, they also come in purple, red, yellow, and streaked varieties.
What’s the Difference Between Bush Beans and Pole Beans?
The main difference between the many types of green beans is whether their growing style is classified as “bush” or “pole.”
Bush beans generally require less maintenance due to their size, but pole beans typically yield more beans for longer and are mostly disease-resistant.
Bush beans produce in about 50 to 55 days; pole beans will take 55 to 65 days.
Bush beans often come in all at once, so stagger your plantings every two weeks to get a continuous harvest. Pole beans need their vines to grow and will produce for a month or two if you keep harvesting.
PLANTING
Beans grow best in well-draining soil with normal fertility and an acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). They don’t typically need supplemental fertilizer because they fix their own nitrogen in the soil. However, particularly poor soil should still be amended with aged manure or compost in the fall prior to planting (or about a week before planting in the spring).
Beans don’t like having their roots disturbed, so set up any supports for pole beans prior to planting.
When to Plant Beans
Beans grow best when direct-seeded outdoors. Sow any time after the last spring frost date, when soil have warmed to at least 48°F (9°C). Don’t plant too early, as cold, moist soil will delay germination and could cause the seeds to rot.
Tip: To get a head start on planting, place black plastic or landscaping fabric over your garden beds to warm the soil prior to sowing seeds.
Do not start green bean seeds indoors. Due to their fragile roots, they may not survive transplanting. Plus, they’re such fast growers that there’s no real advantage to starting them early indoors.
How to Plant Beans
Sow bush beans 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart.
Sow pole beans 1 inch deep, placing them around supports.
Tip: Plant pole and bush beans a little deeper in sandy soils, but not too deep. Seedlings cannot push through soil that is too deep, heavy, dense, packed, and/or mulched; they will break their “necks” in trying to emerge.
For pole beans, set up trellises, stakes, or other supports prior to planting so that the plants’ fragile roots are not disturbed.
One option is to create a tepee: Tie three or four (or more) 7-foot-long bamboo poles or long, straight branches together at the top and splay the legs in a circle. Then plant three or four seeds around each pole. As vines appear, train them to wind up the poles. For more stability, wrap string/wire around the poles about halfway up, encircling the tepee; this gives the vines something to grab.
Another easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
For a continued harvest that lasts all summer, sow seeds every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away and unable to harvest, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone!
Practice crop rotation (planting crops in different areas each year) to avoid the build up of pests and diseases in one spot.
GROWING
Mulch soil around bean plants to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained. Beans have shallow roots, so mulch keeps them cool.
Water regularly, about 2 inches per square foot per week. If you do not keep beans well watered, they will stop flowering. Water on sunny days so that foliage will not remain soaked, which could encourage disease.
If necessary, begin fertilizing after heavy bloom and the set of pods. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer or you will get lush foliage and few beans. A side dressing of compost or aged manure halfway through the growing season is a good alternative to liquid fertilizer.
Weed diligently but carefully to avoid disturbing the beans’ roots.
Pinch off the tops of pole bean vines when they reach the top of the support. This will force them to put energy into producing more pods instead.
In high heat, use row covers over young plants; hot weather can cause blossoms to drop from plants, reducing the harvest.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
When it comes to green beans, the options are endless. Here are several types and varieties to consider:
Chinese (aka Asian) long beans (aka yardlong or asparagus beans): slender, 1- to 2-foot pods. Try ‘Orient Wonder’, ‘Red Noodle’, or ‘Yardlong.’ All pole.
French green beans (aka filet or haricots verts): thin, tender, 3- to 5-inch pods. Try ‘Calima’, ‘Masai’, or ‘Maxibel’; in a container, plant ‘Mascotte’. All bush.
Italian/Romano: wide, flat 6- to 8-inch pods even in the hottest summers. Try ‘Early Bush Italian’, extra-large-pod ‘Jumbo’, or ‘Roma II’. All bush.
Purple beans: 5- to 6-inch pods are deep purpose when raw and turn green when cooked. Try ‘Amethyst’, ‘Royal Burgundy’, or ‘Velour’. All bush.
Snap beans (aka string or stringless): slender, 5- to 7-inch pods. Try ‘Blue Lake 274’ (bush), heirloom ‘Kentucky Wonder’ (bush or pole), or ‘Provider’ (bush).
Yellow wax beans: 5- to 7-inch pods have a milder flavor than green varieties. Try stringless ‘Cherokee’ (bush), classic ‘Golden Wax’ (bush), or ‘Monte Gusto’ (pole).
HARVESTING
Harvest beans in the morning when their sugar level is highest.
Pick green beans every day; the more you pick, the more beans grow.
Green beans are picked young and tender before the seeds inside have fully developed.
Look for firm, sizable pods that are firm and can be snapped—generally as thick as a pencil.
Snap or cut the beans off the plant, being careful not to tear the plant. Fresh beans should snap easily when broken.
Once you see the seeds inside bulging, green beans are past their peak and will taste tough.
How to Store Green Beans
Store beans in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Beans will toughen over time even when stored properly.
Alternatively, blanch and freeze immediately after harvesting.
Beans can also be canned or pickled.
WIT AND WISDOM
Beans are commonly used in everyday expressions to indicate something of little value. Something that “isn’t worth a hill of beans” is not worth much.
According to folklore, in order to get rid of a wart, rub it with a bean and cast the bean over your shoulder without looking back.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/beans
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365
