image from ACS.nmsu.edu

          End of August, WOW…Another month and September being our 9th month.  Looks we might get a shower of rain this morning. With a cold front moving thru, the last few days have been almost perfect summer days.  Cooler temperatures, lower humidity and the sun was gorgeous.  But a little rain will not hurt anything.  We are in a drought for Iowa so a little rain will not take care of that but it all will help.  Lawns will green up again.  I am still processing tomatoes.  Working on another batch of pasta sauce.  It makes the whole house smell so good.  Next will be salsa and tomato soup.  There is a sweet tomato relish my mom made, that I do enjoy so should make that also.  I was given some onions from their garden and when I cut into them, I saw this.  What is this I wondered?  I cut it out and used the good parts of the onion.  Any of you have this in your onions?  So, what it is called is onion soft rot.  Now I know, and want to share with you.  Stay safe. 
​
What Is Onion Soft Rot – Learn About Soft Rot in Onions
An onion with bacterial soft rot is a squishy, brown mess and not something you want to eat. This infection can be managed and even completely avoided with good care and cultural practices, but once you see the signs of it, treatment is not effective.
What is Onion Soft Rot?
Soft rot in onions is a common disease caused by several types of bacteria. It most commonly affects onions while they are being stored, but contamination or the damage that leads to contamination often occurs during or around harvest. The disease can cause a lot of destruction and significantly diminish yields.
Bacterial soft rot infections strike already mature onions. The signs of onion soft rot start with softness at the neck of the bulb. As the infection creeps in, the onion will appear water soaked. Then, one or more scales in the bulb will become soft and brown. If you squeeze an infected bulb, it will emit a watery, smelly substance.
How Onion Bacterial Soft Rot Spreads
Onions  become infected with soft rot bacteria through soil, water, and infected plant debris. The infection gets into bulbs through wounds and damage. The infection is most likely to take hold during warm and humid conditions.
Any damage to leaves or bulbs can cause the infection to get in, including hail and rain damage, sun damage, freezing, bruising, and cutting the tops of the bulbs during harvesting. Damage while the bulb is still in the ground, and after it has been harvested, can lead to infection.
Managing Soft Rot in Onions
Once the disease has set in, there is no treatment that will save a bulb, although it tends to infect just one or two scales. You can prevent infection in several ways, though:
Avoid overwatering your onion plants, especially when it is hot out.
Make sure your onions are planted in ground that drains well and that you give them space for airflow and to dry out between watering.
Avoid damage to the entire plant while the bulb is developing.
Handle harvested bulbs gently to avoid bruising and other types of damage that can lead to infection during storage.
Make sure the onion is fully mature before you harvest it; the drier the tops are, the more protected the bulb is from infection.
If your onions do get damaged, like after a big storm, you can spray the damaged areas with a copper-based spray to protect against infection.
Taken from www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/onion/soft-rot-in-onions.htm
Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image from gardenerspath.com 

     ​     It is getting dark in the northern sky.  Wind picking up, clouds moving quickly.  Looks like rain coming quickly with this cool front approaching.  All of this at 8:00 AM. Hopefully all of us will get the much-needed rain, and no storms.  But later today with the heat of the day there might be storms but looks like south of us.  Stay safe.  Looking forward to less heat, and humidity coming tomorrow and next week.  I need to do some work outside.  We will be attending the Geneva Flea Market in Sept. so need to get things ready for that.  Never been there, and now going to take wagons of things to it.  Sept 10, 11th.  I will spend my birthday Sept 11th there. 
     I was told that posting about harvesting potatoes was a good blog.  With that in mind, I will continue with harvesting onions and storage.  Again hope the new gardeners this year have had success with their gardens, and will continue to do it next year. 
HARVEST/STORAGE
HOW TO HARVEST ONIONS
Pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have stopped growing. These onions will not store well but can be used in recipes within a few days.
When onions start to mature, the tops (foliage) become yellow and begin to fall over. At that point, bend the tops down or even stomp on them to speed the final ripening process.
Loosen the soil around the bulbs to encourage drying.
When tops are brown, pull the onions.
Be sure to harvest in late summer, before cool weather. Mature onions may spoil in fall weather.
HOW TO STORE ONIONS
Clip the roots and cut the tops back to 1 inch (but leave the tops on if you are planning to braid the onions).
Let the onions cure on dry ground for a few days, weather permitting. Always handle them very carefully—the slightest bruise will encourage rot to set in.
Allow onions to dry for several weeks before you store them in a root cellar or any other storage area. Spread them out on an open screen off the ground to dry.
Store at 40 to 50°F (4 to 10°C) in braids or with the stems removed in a mesh bag or nylon stocking.
Mature, dry-skinned bulbs like it cool and dry.
Don’t store onions with apples or pears, as the ethylene gas produced by the fruits will interrupt the onions’ dormancy. Onions may also spoil the flavor of these fruits (as well as potatoes).
A pungent onion will store longer than a sweet onion. Eat the sweet varieties first and save the more pungent onions for later.
WIT & WISDOM
Practice crop rotation with onions. Learn more about crop rotation.
To make onions taste milder, soak them in milk or pour boiling water over the slices and let stand for 20 minutes. Rinse with cold water.
In the Middle Ages, it was believed that onion juice could cure baldness, snakebite, and headaches.
A generation or two ago, children were treated with a poultice of mashed onions applied as a paste to cover a wound.
A whole onion eaten at bedtime was prescribed to break a cold by morning, and sliced onions were placed on the soles of the feet to draw out fever.
Early settlers made a cough syrup by steeping raw onion slices in honey overnight.
A raw onion rubbed on a bee sting or insect bite will relieve the pain and itching.
Onion’s skin very thin,
Mild winter coming in;
Onion’s skin thick and tough,
Coming winter cold and rough.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/onions
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 964-903-9365

image from gardnerspath.com

      ​      Another hot, humid day but it looks like a cold front will be coming thru Thursday night into Friday  morning. so that should give us some rain and much needed cooler temperatures. Hope we all get that needed rain.  BUT the heat and humidity will be down on Saturday.  High on Saturday of 79. 
        I am posting a couple of things today. I had lots of seed potatoes go out this spring, so found this article about harvesting potatoes.  I am thinking some of you have all ready done that but here is some helpful hints about harvesting.  Enjoy the potatoes as fall/winter is coming. 
      HARVEST/STORAGE
WHEN TO HARVEST POTATOES
“New potatoes,” which are potatoes that are purposefully harvested early for their smaller size and tender skin, will be ready for harvest 2 to 3 weeks after the plants stop flowering. New potatoes should not be cured and should be eaten within a few days of harvest, as they will not keep for much longer than that.
For mature potatoes, wait 2 to 3 weeks after the plant’s foliage has died back. The tops of the plants need to have completely died before you begin harvesting. Cut browning foliage to the ground and wait 10 to 14 days before harvesting to allow the potatoes to develop a thick enough skin. Don’t wait too long, though, or the potatoes may rot (especially in moisture-laden soil).
Toughen up potatoes for storage before harvest by not watering them much after mid-August.
Dig up a test hill to see how mature the potatoes are. The skins of mature potatoes are thick and firmly attached to the flesh. If the skins are thin and rub off easily, your potatoes are still too new and should be left in the ground for a few more days.
Potatoes can tolerate light frost, but when the first hard frost is expected, it’s time to get out the shovels and start digging potatoes.
HOW TO HARVEST POTATOES
Dig potatoes up on a dry day. Dig up gently, being careful not to damage the tubers. Avoid cutting or bruising potato skin. Damaged potatoes will rot during storage and should be used as soon as possible. The soil should not be compact, so digging should be easy.
If the soil is very wet, let the potatoes air-dry as much as possible before putting them in bags or baskets.
Don’t leave the potatoes that you have dug in the sun for long after they have been dug up from your garden, otherwise your potatoes may turn green. Green potatoes have a bitter taste due to the presence of solanine, and if enough is eaten, can cause vomiting and diarrhea. Small spots can be trimmed off, but if there is significant greening, throw the potato out.
HOW TO STORE POTATOES
Allow freshly dug potatoes to sit in a dry, cool place (45-60°F / 7-15°C) for up to two weeks. This allows their skins to cure, which will help them keep for longer.
After curing, make sure you brush off any soil clinging to the potatoes, then store potatoes in a cool, dark place, preferably 45° to 50°F (7° to 10°C), with good ventilation. When properly stored, potatoes will remain fresh for up to a month. Throw away potatoes that are shriveled, green, or have many sprouts.
Do not store potatoes with apples; the apples’ ethylene gas will cause potatoes to spoil.
Never store potatoes in the refrigerator.
Whether you dig your own potatoes or buy them at a store, don’t wash them until right before you use them. Washing potatoes shortens their storage life.
WIT & WISDOM
Before planning your garden, take a look at our plant companions chart to see which veggies are most compatible with potatoes.
Did you know: Potato promoter Antoine Parmentier convinced Marie Antoinette to wear potato blossoms in her hair.
Grated potatoes are said to soothe sunburnt skin.
“What I say is that if a man really likes potatoes, he must be a pretty decent sort of fellow.”
–A. A. Milne, English writer (1882–1956)
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

image from blogspot.com

     ​       I can’t believe I am posting about fall pruning of perennials.  Where did this garden season go?  I hope all of you have had a great year and have enjoyed the flowers and vegetables you have planted this year.  This year so different from the rest, that gardening is giving you some peace. Enjoyment and place to go.  I am still planting some annual pots to give color around the greenhouse.  I also have a couple of flower beds to clean up. It is never ending.  But I have two areas that I have planted in that I have found the peace, enjoyment, and contentment of being at home.  Both with lots of shade so can sit most of the time during the day and early evening. 
One of the perennials that is listed below is the Crocosmia (Crocosmia).  I had a good gardening friend tell me about this one.  They are planted from bulbs so they will be here next spring.  Hummingbirds and butterflies love this plant.  Good luck with the not so fun job of pruning back perennials.  But it will help with the plant for next spring.  Stay safe, stay cool, and enjoy the bounties around you. 
Some perennials can't handle cold weather well. They don't remain attractive after the first frost, and the cold can lead to recurrent problems with pests and diseases. But cutting back certain perennials can protect them from the cold and spark healthy growth come spring. Here are 34 perennials to cut back in the fall.
Tip
Cutting old and diseased foliage in the fall helps a perennial jump right into new growth come spring. But some plants need their foliage for protection over the winter and instead should be pruned in the spring. Know your plant's particular care requirements for best results.
Bearded Iris (Iris germanica)
The tall foliage of bearded iris begins flopping early in the growing season. By fall, it can become cover for iris borers and fungal diseases. Cut the flower stalk as soon as it's done blooming, and remove any damaged or diseased leaves, but leave the healthy foliage until fall. Cut back the leaves to 6 inches, and dispose of the foliage, rather than composting it.
USDA Growing Zones: 3 to 10
Color Varieties: Red, pink, orange, yellow, blue, purple, brown, white
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Soil Needs: Humusy, medium moisture, well-draining
Bee Balm (Monarda didyma)
Even the most resistant varieties of Monarda can succumb to powdery mildew. When that happens, you'll have to cut back the plant long before fall. But healthy new growth can be left until spring. Sometimes selective thinning of the stems is all that is needed for fall, and you can leave the remaining seed heads for the birds.
USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 9
Color Varieties: Red
Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
Soil Needs: Rich, humusy, moist
Blackberry Lily (Iris domestica)
Prune the blackberry lily in the fall to keep its foliage from collapsing. Limp foliage can cause the crown to rot and invite borers. Cutting it back also can help stop unwanted self-seeding, preventing the plant from becoming invasive.
USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 10
Color Varieties: Orange with red spots
Sun Exposure: Full sun, light shade
Soil Needs: Average, moist, well-draining
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora)
Blanket flower is a pretty hardy plant, and cutting back the spent stems seems to improve its vigor. The plant will look fuller and healthier with some fall pruning. And if you deadhead flowers throughout the growing season, it can promote more continuous blooming.
USDA Growing Zones: 3 to 10
Color Varieties: Yellow, orange, red, maroon
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Soil Needs: Rich, moist, well-draining
Bronze Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare 'Purpureum')
Bronze fennel can be found accenting many gardens. The foliage provides food for swallowtail caterpillars, which can leave the stems completely stripped by fall. If that is the case, it is no longer providing any use to the plant and can be cut back to the ground.
USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 9
Color Varieties: Yellow
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Soil Needs: Rich, moist, well-draining
Catmint (Nepeta)
Nepetas respond well to pruning throughout the season to refresh and tidy up the foliage. Moreover, winter cold will damage the foliage, so get a head start on your spring garden cleanup by cutting back the plant in the fall.
USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 8
Color Varieties: Blue
Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
Soil Needs: Rich, humusy, well-draining
Columbine (Aquilegia)
Remove columbine foliage showing leaf miner damage, and clear out any debris around the base of the plant. Columbine sends out growth early in spring and appreciates not having old foliage from the previous season to contend with. To prevent self-seeding, remove flowers after blooming. Leave healthy foliage to absorb energy throughout the growing season, and prune after frost.
USDA Growing Zones: 3 to 9
Color Varieties: Blue, orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow
Sun Exposure: Part shade
Soil Needs: Sandy or loamy, moist, well-draining
Corydalis (Corydalis lutea)
It is hard to kill corydalis. But if you would prefer to tame its enthusiastic self-seeding habit, remove seed heads and cut back dead foliage after a killing frost. Furthermore, if a significantly hot summer has damaged foliage, cut back the plant to its basal leaves in the fall.
USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 7
Color Varieties: Yellow
Sun Exposure: Part shade to shade
Soil Needs: Average, medium, well-draining
Crocosmia (Crocosmia)
The flowers of crocosmia should be cut back when finished blooming to encourage new flowers. The seed heads can offer interest, but the foliage eventually heads downhill in the colder months. Cut back dead foliage and remove debris.
USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 9
Color Varieties: Red, orange, yellow
Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
Soil Needs: Average, neutral pH, well-draining
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/perennial-plants-to-cut-back-in-the-fall-4767363
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

image from pinterest

      ​       It is really humid all ready this morning.  Sweating comes easily but I guess that is good.  Stay cool, and drink plenty with this heat and humidity.  Of course, most schools have started it would be this hot.  Hope all of them stay safe.  What kind of weather will September bring?  This is what the Farmers almanac says.
FALL WEATHER FORECAST 2020: SEPTEMBER BRINGS COOL WEATHER EAST, WARM WEST
READ THE LATEST FORECAST FOR SEPTEMBER 2020!  By The Editors
As the days shorten and the leaves turn, we march closer and closer to autumn! Wondering what sort of weather the season will bring? Almanac meteorologist Michael Steinberg gives us a sneak peek of what to expect this fall.
SEPTEMBER HOLIDAY FORECAST: COOL IN THE EAST, WARM OUT WEST
Labor Day (September 7) marks the last hurrah of the summer season across the United States and Canada. Good news! The weather will mostly cooperate if you have plans for one last barbecue before autumn weather sets in. Most of the eastern half of the United States will be a bit on the cool side during September, although sprinkles will be few and far between. Showers will be more widespread from Texas to Arizona and northward to the Canadian border, although temperatures will be on the warm side in most of these areas. Parts of Alaska and Hawaii will also see showers.
Meanwhile, hot, mostly dry weather will be the rule from Washington down through California. Folks in Atlantic Canada and the Yukon and Northwest Territories will see a few showers, but elsewhere across the commonwealth, dry and cool weather will prevail.
For Patriot Day on September 11, showers will be the rule across much of the United States, although sunshine will dominate from the Heartland to California.
My favorite day in September is Grandparents Day (September 13). Whenever I get the chance, I train my grandkids to do to their parents all the bad stuff my kids did to me—revenge is sweet! The grandkids will have to do it indoors in most places in Canada and the eastern two-thirds of the United States, as rainy weather and cool temperatures will predominate. Most of the western states will see warmer, dryer weather; dry air of a cooler nature will prevail in Atlantic Canada.
2020 FALL WEATHER FORECAST SUMMARY
Autumn, with its cool, crisp nights, warm wool sweaters, and endless amount of pumpkin-flavored foods, officially begins with the autumnal equinox on Tuesday, September 22.
September 2020
Generally, temperatures will fall as autumn arrives in September. The cooler-than-normal temperatures, on average, will linger through the month in most places, although temperatures for the month will average above normal in Florida, from the Intermountain region and Arizona westward to the Pacific, in Alaska and Atlantic Canada, and from the Prairies westward to the Pacific and northward to the Yukon. September precipitation will be on the heavier side from southern New England southward to Georgia, from Pennsylvania southwestward to Louisiana, and in the Desert Southwest, southern Alaska, Atlantic Canada, Quebec, and portions of the Yukon and Northwest Territories. It will be near or below normal elsewhere.
October 2020
Just when an early winter seems inevitable, October will roll in with milder-than-normal temperatures nearly everywhere—actually, make that “much warmer than normal” temps in the eastern two-thirds of the United States. But enjoy it while it lasts: As the leaves begin turning color and floating to the ground, above-normal rainfall will visit the Deep South and Southeast and range northeastward to New England, as well as predominate from central California northward through the Pacific Northwest. Most other areas will be dry or nearly so.
Autumn temperatures will be above normal in Atlantic Canada, southern Ontario, the Prairies, British Columbia, and the Yukon and below normal elsewhere across the Canadian commonwealth. Precipitation will be below or near normal in Ontario and the Prairies and above normal in nearly all parts of the other Canadian provinces.
A PREVIEW OF WINTER WEATHER AHEAD
Dare we even mention winter yet? (It is our job, after all.
As far as the upcoming winter goes, we will be entering Solar Cycle 25, which is expected to bring very low solar activity. Although low levels of solar activity have historically been associated with cooler temperatures, on average, across Earth, we believe that recent warming trends will dominate in the eastern and northern parts of the United States in the coming winter, with below-normal average temperatures limited to the western portion of the nation. Temperatures will average above normal in most of Canada, except for Atlantic Canada and the Prairies, where below-normal temperatures are expected.
As we move toward the winter, watch for any changes in the ENSO pattern (the El Niño–Southern Oscillation, which is based on temperatures in the Pacific Ocean), where we expect a weak La Niña to develop. If the La Niña were to be stronger, colder temperatures would likely prevail across the northern Plains and southern Ontario. On the other hand, if we instead have more neutral conditions or an El Niño, California would experience heavier rainfall while the Canadian Prairies would have milder temperatures.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/fall-weather-forecast
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365

image from wikiHow 

​      So here is information that I would find informative if I had hydrangeas.  You will have to know what variety you have for when to prune them.  Research about pictures if you don’t know to help with this.  Iowa is warming up as the western states are.  Humidity is up also from the southern states.  But it is still summer in Iowa. 
WHEN TO PRUNE DIFFERENT KINDS OF HYDRANGEAS  WHEN AND HOW SHOULD HYDRANGEAS BE PRUNED?
By Robin Sweetser
April 17, 2020
When do you prune your hydrangea? Well, it depends on the variety. Yes, we know that sounds tricky but it’s not if you consult our handy cheat sheet to figure out the best time to prune.
Properly pruning hydrangeas based on your hydrangea’s type will allow you to have more blooms next year. However, before you start pruning, it’s important to figure out which type of hydrangea you have. If you prune at the wrong time, you could be cutting off next year’s blooms!
HYDRANGEA PRUNING CHEAT SHEET
Use this table to determine when to best prune the hydrangeas in your garden. Some types should be pruned in late winter, while others should be left alone until after they bloom in the summer.
Hydrangea Type                                              When to Prune                              Where Flowers Appear
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) Summer, after flowering               On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia)  Summer, after flowering               On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata)   Late winter, before spring growth             On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens)              Late winter, before spring growth             On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata)    Summer, after flowering               On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris)  Summer, after flowering               On old growth
MORE ABOUT PRUNING DIFFERENT HYDRANGEA TYPES
Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
Even though I’m located in Zone 5, my ‘Endless Summer’ mophead hydrangea—which usually has huge blue blossoms all summer long—was killed to the ground. Luckily, it has the wonderful ability to bloom on both old and new wood, so even though they were a bit later than usual, there were still many blooms.
My other blue hydrangea is a lacecap-type, called ‘Let’s Dance Starlight’, but instead of the huge, mophead-type of flower cluster that ‘Endless Summer’ has, the lacecap hydrangea bears a flat blossom made up of many small, fertile flowers surrounded by a few showy, sterile flowers. It is also hardy to Zone 5 and blooms on both old and new wood.
Both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are considered bigleaf or macrophylla hydrangeas, so they can be pruned right after flowering by cutting back the flowering shoots to the next bud. If you have older plants that aren’t blooming well, you can cut up to a third of the stems off at the base in late summer to encourage new growth.
The hydrangeas grown most often in New England gardens are the panicle-types, since they are not only beautiful, but also very hardy, surviving Zone 3 winters with no problems. One of the oldest and most reliable favorites is ‘Grandiflora’, also known as Pee Gee hydrangea. Native to China and Japan, it was the first Asian hydrangea cultivar introduced to the United States, in 1862. They were a big hit during the Victorian era. The flowers start out a creamy white and turn a rosy pink as they age. They can be dried and look lovely in a winter arrangement. Find out how to dry these lovely hydrangeas here.
There are many panicle-types to choose from. I have one called ‘Pinky Winky’ that has long, cone-shaped white and pink flowers, and also ‘Vanilla Strawberry’, which has panicles that color from white at the tip to pink in the middle and red at the base. For something different, try ‘Limelight,’ which has chartreuse flowers that gradually turn pink in autumn.
Panicle-type hydrangeas should be pruned in late winter to keep them from becoming overgrown.
Smooth Hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
Smooth hydrangeas are North American natives, originally found growing wild in Pennsylvania. They tolerate light shade, begin to bloom in June, and continue to blossom until fall. Their white flowers are round and can reach 12 inches in diameter.
The popular cultivar ‘Annabelle’ grows to be 3-5 feet tall and can be used to light up a shady path or as a mass planting at the edge of the woods. It is hardy to Zone 3.
Smooth hydrangeas can be pruned back to the ground in the fall or early spring.
Oak-leaf hydrangeas are another North American native, having been discovered in Georgia in 1773.
Oak-leaf hydrangea
Also called swamp snowball, it is hardy to zone 5 and though it prefers full sun, it can take some shade and still blossom well. It blooms a little later than the other hydrangeas, beginning in August. Its flowers are large panicles that start out white and turn dark pink as they age. The leaves, which are deeply lobed like an oak leaf, turn a rich maroon red in the fall.
Oak-leaf hydrangeas don’t need a lot of pruning, but if you want to tidy yours up, prune out the dead stems at the base in early spring.
ABOUT THIS article
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/when-prune-different-kinds-hydrangeas
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 

        ​    We got rain.  Hope you did this morning too.  Another round of rain later today.  Now it is getting humid out.  Now and next week we will be getting the heat that the west has had.  90 degrees for a few days.  Summer still is here.  Stay safe, and keep comfortable. 
Looking for a way to revive, rejuvenate, and give new life to your tired, worn out hanging baskets and container plants?
As late summer arrives, many hanging baskets and potted plants purchased back in the spring begin to show serious signs of wear and tear. What once was a healthy, thriving plant has become a sad, struggling plant.
By mid-summer, many hanging basket and container plants have fallen on tough times – but don’t throw them out just yet!
The leaves are thinning, and the beautiful blooms that once blanketed its foliage are now few and far between. And watering is nearly impossible too, as the water simply flows right through the roots.
All of the above are classic signs of worn out, root-bound, overgrown hanging basket and container plants. And at this point, no matter what you do, the plant is going to continue to go downhill.
When plants begin to lose their luster in mid-summer, it is more than likely the result of overcrowded roots.
But wait – not all is lost! Before you toss those worn out baskets and planters to the curb, there is a way to still give them a gorgeous second life. And it’s easier than you could ever imagine!
A Simple Solution For Saving Worn Out Hanging Baskets & Container Plants
Although you can always replant baskets and potted plants into larger containers, sometimes it’s simply not feasible or practical.
If a plant is already large, it can be difficult finding containers large enough to work. Even if you do, it can expensive and time consuming to fill with all of that potting soil.
And do you really want to put that much effort into plants that only have a few months ( or weeks ) of life left before frost sets in?
Instead of throwing those worn out baskets to the compost heap, give them new life by re-planting them directly into your flowerbeds and landscape. Not only will the new space and soil rejuvenate your worn out plants, it provides a huge splash of color to perennial bed spaces for the rest of the growing season.
A worn out basket of petunias can find new life and vigor in a flowerbed.
 And you will be amazed at how big and beautiful those potted plants can become once again!
The Secret To Transplanting Success
By replanting directly into the ground, worn out root-bound baskets and planters can find the space and nutrients they need to grow strong again.
Begin by digging a hole about 50% larger than the existing root ball of the potted plant. Remove the plant from the original basket, taking care to lightly break apart the root bound edges.
root bound
Gently break apart the roots of potted plants to help them re-establish into the landscape.
This will help the plant’s roots to quickly search out into the new soil and replenish nutrients. Before planting, soak the roots with a good dose of water to re-hydrate.
When re-planting into the new hole, fill the bottom with compost, and mix equal amounts of soil and compost around the edges. The loose, nutrient-filled soil will give the worn out hanging basket plants an easy path to set new roots.
Finally, finish by applying a healthy dose of liquid fertilizer to the plant. Because it is mature and established, it will quickly soak up the nutrients to come back to life.
Water daily or even twice daily for the first week, until the roots have had a chance to become re-established. In no time at all, your old hanging basket will bounce back to life in a beautiful display of color.
Adding in generous amounts of compost to the planting hole is a must.
To keep the annuals flowering big until the end of the season, apply a light granular or liquid fertilizer once a week. Your plants will thank you with rejuvenated blooms!
Here is to getting a second life out of those worn out hanging baskets and planters this summer! Happy
As always, feel free to email us at thefarm@owgarden.com with comments, questions, or to simply say hello! To receive our 3 Home, Garden, Recipe and Simple Life articles each week, sign up below for our free email list. This article may contain affiliate links.
Taken from https://oldworldgardenfarms.com/2020/07/30/worn-out-hanging-baskets/?fbclid=IwAR3u0McAZmjY9HBLfRW9u9vsxsO7W1nJCkakXY13uwbaBs_Fk2P808p97Ak
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

​    Here you see what I am growing just in the landscape pots they came in.  GRAPES I had to look up when I should pick them.  I had purple ones and they are gone so reading the article I do believe that the birds harvest them for me.  When I was watering yesterday, I could smell the grapes.  That brought back memories when I was up to my Uncle Ted’s place in Lansing and he always had grapes.  So, I am thinking they are close to being picked.  Have you picked your grapes in the garden?  I just can’t believe they grew so well in the pots they came in.  We will transplant them into bigger one’s next year and have to cut them back. There are about 8 pots that have grown together.  Still this morning lovely out with lower humidity, cool breeze partly cloudy sky and a nice breeze.  But as all weather does change, we will be getting the hot and humid weather that out west has had next week.  Enjoy what you can and be outside. 
Ripening Of Grapes: When To Harvest Grapes
In my neck of the woods, the Pacific Northwest, it seems every other day a new winery pops up. Some of them make it and some of them don’t; the result not only of savvy marketing but the quality of the wine which directly correlates to the superiority of the grape. For the home gardener, growing grapevines [1] may create a lovely shaded oasis or arbor, or an ornamental detail with the added bonus of edibility. But how do you know when to harvest grapes at the peak of their sweetness and optimum flavor? Read on for some grape harvest info.
When to Harvest Grapes
The precise time for picking grapes is dependent on the location, length of growing season, variety of grape, crop load and the intended use of the grape. Heavy crop loads take longer to mature. The optimum time for harvesting grapes will vary year to year as do environmental conditions — sometime after the berries turn color (veraison).
Commercial grape growers rely on more scientific methods to determine when to harvest the grapes such as precise pH levels [2] and sugar contents (Brix) that are established with testing. The home grower may make use of the following to ascertain the ripening of grapes and proper harvest time:
Color – Harvesting grapes for use in jellies or wine making must occur at just the right stage of maturity for maximum sweetness. Grapes change color from green to blue, red or white, depending upon the variety. Color is one of the indicators of ripeness. However, it is not the most reliable indicator, as many varieties of grapes change color well prior to ripening. Still, when completely ripe, the whitish coating on the grapes becomes more evident and the seeds turn from green to brown.
Size – Size is another gauge of the ripening of grapes. When mature, the grapes are full size and a bit less firm to the touch.
Taste – Hands down, the best way to ascertain if your grapes are ripe enough to harvest is to taste them. Sample the grapes three to four weeks prior to the approximate harvest date and continue to taste the grapes as they mature. Try to take samples at the same time of day from a variety of areas on the vine.
Grapes, unlike other fruits, do not continue to ripen once off the vine, so it is important to keep tasting until the grapes are uniformly sweet. Sample from sun exposed areas as well as those that are shaded. Ripeness and color of grapes is not reliant upon direct sunlight, but rather the amount of light that reaches the grape foliage results in high quality fruit. It is the leaves of the grape that engender the sugars, which are then transferred to the fruit.
Additional Grape Harvest Info
Uneven ripening may occur due to too many grape clusters on the vine (over-cropping), potassium deficiency, drought or other environmental stressors. Warmer than normal weather is often the cause of uneven ripening, wherein some berries stay sour, hard and green while others ripen and darken in color normally.
Ripening berries are also extremely attractive to the birds [3]. To protect the impending harvest, you may want to envelop the grape clusters in a brown bag tied to the cane or by netting the entire vine.
Once you have ascertained it is prime time for a grape harvest, simply remove the clusters with hand shears. Grapes can be stored at 32 F. (0 C.) with 85 percent relative humidity, in a perforated bag for up to two months.
Taken from https://www.gardeningknowhow.com  Ripening Of Grapes: When To Harvest Grapes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

image from frescos/grass/com

​      Another almost perfect summer day.  A great day if you can be outside in your gardens sometime to enjoy all your work.  How are your gardens doing?  From the vegetable garden to the flower beds and all the containers you have planted.  Let us know. 
     Found this article that explain some of the terminology about plants annuals and perennials. Hope you clarify some of your questions.  Enjoy your day and please stay safe. Annual, perennial, biennial – these important terms refer to a plant’s life cycle or life span, which usually includes the production of flowers and seeds that guarantee the next generation. They’re important for gardeners to understand if they’re to choose plants wisely. Although the distinctions are occasionally blurred, for the most part you can refer to the following definitions.
Annuals: Live For One Season
Annual plants complete their life cycle in one growing season. Zinnias, for example, sprout from seeds in spring, produce foliage, and then begin flowering. By late summer these flowers, if left on the plant, go to seed — that is, they mature into a seed-head filled with viable seeds. The mother plant dies with the first frost, but she’s produced hundreds or even thousands of seeds capable of carrying on the next generation. The same holds true for beans. If we don’t harvest them, the seeds will mature within the pods.
zinnias
Annual zinnias are colorful, long-blooming summer favorites.
Biennials: Live for Two Years
These intriguing plants live for two seasons. In their first season, the seeds sprout and the plant produces only foliage, and then overwinters. The next spring, it sprouts to life and produces flowers and mature seed, after which the plant dies. Some of our favorite vegetables are biennials. In its first season a carrot plant develops a deep, carbohydrate-filled taproot to store energy needed to survive winter. If left unharvested, the plant will re-sprout in spring, produce flower and seeds, and then die back. Cabbage, kale, and celery are also biennials, as are Canterbury bells and many foxgloves.
kale
Kale is a biennial; left in the garden over the winter, it will resprout in spring, bloom, and produce seeds.
foxglove
Most foxgloves are biennials; however, some varieties will bloom their first year if seed is sown in early spring.
Perennials: Live for Three or More Years
Defined as plants that live for three or more years, perennials vary in their life spans. Some perennials are described as short-lived. An individual columbine plant, for example, may live for several years and then begin to die back. However, in that span it has produced plenty of seed. Peonies and daylilies, on the other hand, are long-lived, lasting for a decade or longer if given ideal growing conditions.
peonies
Peonies are long-lived perennials that will awe you with their sumptous blooms year after year.
Self-Sowing Annuals: Reseed Themselves
Some annuals behave like perennials, in that they appear to return year after year. However, each year brings a new generation of plants that have grown from seeds dropped by the mother plant, which died at the end of the previous growing season. This tendency is also referred to as self-seeding or reseeding. Calendula and cornflower are two self-sowing annuals. When a plant shows up in a different spot in the garden, the seed having been carried by an insect, animal, or the wind, the surprise plant is sometimes called a volunteer.
calendula
At the end of the growing season, calendulas will drop their seeds, which may ovewinter and sprout the following spring.
Half-Hardy Annuals: Tolerate Light Frosts
Unlike zinnias and marigolds that need warm temperatures, some annuals will sprout in early spring and continue growing into fall, tolerating frosts and even light freezes. They’ll be killed back by a prolonged or deep freeze. Examples include sweet peas and snapdragons.
 
snapdragons
Snapdragons grow best in cooler temperature and will tolerate light frosts.
Temperennials: Perennial in Warmer Regions
Although it’s not widely used, the term temperennial makes an important distinction. It describes plants that are perennial in their native habitat, often tropical or semi-tropical, but are grown as annuals in colder regions. Some temperennials, such as cannas, are hardy to regions as cool as zone 8. Elsewhere, the roots must be dug up and overwintered in a sheltered spot. Peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants are all perennials, as are many petunias and the bright red geraniums (Pelargonium species) sold alongside the annuals. They can all be grown year-round in frost-free areas, or overwintered indoors in cooler locales.
canna
Cannas are perennial in zones 8 and warmer. In regions with colder winters the roots must be dug up and stored indoors over the winter.
pepper
Although most gardeners grow them as annuals, pepper plants are perennial in frost-free regions.
Woody Plants: Yes, They're Perennials, Too
What about trees and shrubs? Plants that produce woody stems are, technically speaking, perennials, because they live for three or more years. However, we usually reserve the term perennial for herbaceous (non-woody) plants.
lilac
Lilacs are long-lived woody plants (shrubs) with fragrant spring blooms.
Taken from  https://www.gardeners.com/how-to/terms-annuals-perennials
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365

      ​     This is what I have been doing for the 2nd week now, working up tomatoes.  I found this article helpful even though I have been doing tomatoes before.  How are you doing with tomatoes?  Canning or freezing?   I totally enjoy doing this.   The weather is almost perfect for canning.  The house isn’t warmed up at all because we can have the windows open.  Lower humidity is wonderful.  Hope all of you are staying safe. 
HOW TO HARVEST TOMATOES
Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. If you grow orange, yellow or any other color tomato, wait for the tomato to turn the correct color.
If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they ripen.
If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, watch this video for tips.
You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.
HOW TO STORE TOMATOES
Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.
See RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
Tomatoes grow in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” What’s most important is to look for disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. Many modern cultivars have resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, and root knot nematodes. Cultivars with such resistance are denoted as such by the letters V, F, and N following the cultivar name
Here are a few of our favorite varieties of tomatoes:
Early Varieties (60 or fewer days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than mid or late-season cultivars.
‘Early Cascade’: trailing plant, large fruit clusters
‘Early Girl’: one of the earliest tomatoes, produces through the summer
Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)
‘Floramerica’: firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
‘Fantastic’: meaty rich flavor, heavy yields, crack resistant
Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)
‘Amish Paste’: Large paste tomatoes, good slicers, heavy yields
‘Brandywine’: A beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
Cherry Tomatoes
‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’: bright red tomatoes, foolproof in any climate, bears abundant fruit in high or low temps and in rain or drought
‘Sun Gold’: golden orange tomatoes, very sweet yet tart flavor, huge clusters
Large Tomatoes
Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking.   MY FAVORITE TOMATO IS THE CELEBRITY  
CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO HOW TO CHOOSE TOMATO VARIETIES.
WIT & WISDOM
In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
The tomato plant is native to South America but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous.
In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.
Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365