taken from puregracefarms.com

      ​       I am back.  Tuesday August 13th, I had a complete knee replacement on my right knee.  In January I had my left one done.  So surgery on Tuesday, home on Wed, Therapy on Thursday and now just getting better.  Sleeping ok, walking ok, pain isn't too bad.  So it is good.  I thought I better post or you are going to wonder.  Facebook is asking, so I am sure you are too.  How are your peppers in the garden?  Hope this is the year for peppers.  They grow and develop is a lot to do with the weather. 
       Peppers are such a lovely fruit. They come in many different colors, sizes and hotness. Plus, they’re easy to freeze to use all winter. See how.
 
Did you know: A green pepper is just an unripe one—give it time and it will turn red, orange, purple, yellow or chocolate brown!
 
Regular peppers are a delicious addition to a veggie dip; they have a distinctive crunch and a beautiful sweetness (if ripe). Stir-fried peppers and onions are phenomenal with hamburgers, hot dogs, sausages and steaks. They also begin my soups and are a great start for a chicken or steak stir-fry.
 
A Couple Growing Tips
Peppers like it fairly hot. They actually don’t set fruit when it is extremely hot but they do like it to be warm. When planting, I place them fairly close together—an open hand’s width apart seems to be ideal.
 
I also place several individual book matches in the hole before I plant them. This seems to help them to produce well. If the fruits get heavy, they can sometimes need support. Keep an eye out for this possibility.
 
Freezing Peppers
If frost threatens before the entire crop has matured, pick the entire plant out of the ground and wash the roots. These can then be hung upside down in a warmer place (finished porches work well) and the fruits will ripen. They may wrinkle a bit, but they still taste spectacular.
 
Peppers are the easiest thing in the world to freeze. They need no blanching whatsoever—just cut them into the size of pieces that you like to use and put them in the freezer.
 
I tend to use a lot of peppers during the year so I try to fill quite a few quart bags in season. I make sure that they can lay flat so that they will stack nicely in the freezer.
 
When it is time to use them, I can break off a large or small bunch and toss them directly into the pan. Most of the time, an onion or two is already there slowly frying in coconut oil (and a dash of salt) until soft. I like to wait until the oil begins to turn the color of the peppers (about 20 to 30 minutes) before continuing with my recipe. This ensures that both the onions and the peppers are soft and delicious.
I freeze much of my harvest! Whether you’re a gardener or just don’t want to throw away food, see my tips for freezing spinach and greens, freezing corn, and freezing Brussels sprouts.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/celestes-garden/freezing-peppers
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​     Winning the Battle of the MIND
 
2 Corinthians 10: 5 IN as much as we refute arguments and theories and reasoning's and every proud and lofty thing that sets itself up against the knowledge of God, and we lead every thought and purpose away captives into the obedience of Christ the Messiah, the Anointed one.
 
     Satan has declared war on God's children, and our minds are the battlefield in which the war is won or lost.  Satan loves to put wrong thoughts into our minds, thoughts that are not in agreement with God's Word, hoping, we will meditate on them long enough for them to become reality in our lives.  We can cast down those wrong thoughts and bring every thought captive into the obedience of Jesus Christ.
 
   Be thankful that you can choose your own thoughts and that you are not a prisoner to whatever kinds of thoughts just fall into your mind.  Think good things that agree with God's word on purpose.  Think about God's love for you and the good plant He has for your life.  Think about how you can be a blessing to other people and how you can be a blessing to God by simply being available for Him to work through.  Thinking right thoughts will close the door to wrong ones and in the process it also closes the door to the devil.
 
I thank You Lord that I am Your child and I am greatly blessed.  Today, I choose to think God honoring thoughts, focusing on Your goodness in my life.  I am grateful that I can choose what thoughts I am going to dwell on.  AMEN
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@neints.net

picture from NASA

          Another love of mine, the sky...so here is the information about seeing Mercury this month.  Go to the website Alamanc and you can print off the map to see where Mercury will be.  BUT you have to get up early before sunrise to see it.  GOOD LUCK
See Elusive Planet Mercury at Dawn  By Jeff DeTray from AstronomyBoy.com
Spot the elusive planet Mercury in the east before sunrise! It’s a rare opportunity to get a glimpse of the Sun’s innermost planet.
 
Pass the sun-block!
 Can’t you see,
 It’s really bright,
 Cried Mercury . .
–Mr. R.’s World of Science (online)
 
Mercury ís brave
 close to the sun
 lost in its glare
 how quickly it runs
–Kamtime (online)
 
Poems devoted to the planet Mercury are few and far between, but they share common themes. They typically refer either to Mercury’s extreme relationship with the Sun or its speedy movement through the sky—or both. Mercury is closer to the Sun than any other planet and thus endures a surface temperature of up to 800°F. Sunblock, indeed! And Mercury is fast! It whips around the Sun once every 88 days, compared to our Earth’s 365 days. The ancient Romans noted how swiftly Mercury moves across the sky and named it for the fleet-footed Messenger of the Gods.
 
It’s a testament to the exquisite observing skills of ancient astronomers that they ever noticed Mercury at all. From our Earthly perspective, the innermost planet never ventures very far from the Sun; you have to know exactly when and where to look.
 
Spot Mercury Before Dawn
Fortunately, August brings the best opportunity to see the elusive planet.  Mercury rises before the Sun all of this month, and is surprisingly easy to see from now through August 27.
 
The planet attains a greatest elongation 19 degrees west of the Sun on August 9.
 
So, the several mornings before and after August 9 are the best times to see Mercury with the eye alone.
 
Here’s how:
•Go outside 30 to 45 minutes before sunrise. Consult the Almanac’s Sunrise and Sunset Calculator to find the exact time of sunrise for your location. With sunrise not far away, the sky will be brightening quickly, so don’t be late!
•Look to the east-southeast, low in the sky for a bright yellowish-orange “star.” If the skies are clear, you should even be able to see Mercury without a telescope for the planet is a bright as a 1st-magnitude star.
 
More about Mercury
Exploratory spacecraft have visited Mercury only twice!
1.In 1974–75, NASA’s Mariner 10 probe made three flybys of Mercury, sending back the first close-up photos and discovering that the tiny planet has its own magnetic field, a finding that surprised researchers.
2.Then, in 2011, NASA’s MESSENGER  (MErcury Surface, Space ENvironment, GEochemistry, and Ranging) spacecraft reached Mercury and went into orbit around it. MESSENGER spent the next four years collecting science data and making thousands of high-resolution photographs of Mercury. The MESSENGER photo reproduced on this month’s sky map shows how closely Mercury resembles the Moon, at least on its surface.
 
A third spacecraft is currently on its way to Mercury! BepiColombo is a collaboration between the European Space Agency and the Japanese Space Agency. The mission carries two separate probes, which will separate from one another once BepiColombo reaches Mercury in 2025.
 
Fortunately, you won’t have to wait that long to undertake your own exploration of Mercury. You merely have to wake up before dawn on August 9 or 10 (or thereabouts) to see the hot and speedy planet for yourself.
 
https://www.almanac.com/content/sky-map-august-  to see a map of the sky to find Mercury
​till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

     ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
    
    I had this question asked what weed looks like morning glory with a heart shaped leaf?  This is what I found.  Any of you have this in your yards?  Doesn't look like a fun weed to get rid of?  GOOD LUCK
 
 Bindweed 
Type: Broadleaf perennial
Size: Climbs 6 feet or more
Where it grows: Landscape and garden areas in sun
Idnetify Weeds: Bindweed has arrowhead-shape leaves on twining vines. The garden weed bears white to pale pink morning glory-type flowers.
Control: Mulch your garden to prevent bindweed. Repeatedly chop down growing bindweed plants and/or treat with postemergence herbicide.
Test Garden Tip: Wandering roots produce offspring 20-30 feet from the mother vine.
taken from https://www.bhg.com/gardening/pests/insects-diseases-weeds/types-of-weeds
 
Gardening Know How - https://www.gardeningknowhow.com 
Bindweed Control – How To Kill Bindweed In The Garden And Lawn
Any gardener that has had the displeasure of having bindweed in their garden knows how frustrating and infuriating these weeds can be. Controlling bindweed can be difficult, but it can be done if you are willing to take the time. Below, we have listed some different ways how to control bindweed.
 
Identifying Bindweed
Before you can get rid of bindweed, you need to make sure that the weed you have is bindweed. Bindweed (Convolvulus) is often called wild morning glory because it looks like morning glory  Bindweed is a climbing vine. Normally, the first signs that you have bindweed will be thin thread-like vines that wrap themselves tightly around plants or other upward objects.
 
Eventually, the bindweed vines will grow leaves, which are shaped much like an arrowhead [2]. After the leaves appear, the bindweed vine will start growing flowers. Bindweed flowers are trumpet shaped and will be either white or pink.
 
How to Control Bindweed
Part of why it is so hard to get rid of bindweed is that it has a large and hardy root system. Single attempts to remove bindweed roots will not be successful. When controlling bindweed, the first thing to remember is that you will need to make several attempts of the bindweed control method you choose several times before you can successfully kill bindweed.
 
Organic and Chemical Approaches for Bindweed Control
Both boiling water (organic) and non-selective herbicides (chemical) can be used to get rid of bindweed. Both of these options can kill any plant where applied. These methods are ideal for areas where bindweed is growing but there are no other plants you wish to save. These would be areas like driveway cracks, empty vegetable beds and vacant lots.
 
To use boiling water to kill bindweed, simply boil some water and pour it on the bindweed. If possible, pour the boiling water about 2-3′ beyond where the bindweed is growing so that you can get as much of the roots as possible.
 
If you are using an herbicide, apply it heavily to the bindweed plant and re-apply every time the plant reappears and reaches 12 inches (30 cm.) in length.
 
Repeated Pruning to Kill Bindweed
Another popular method for controlling bindweed is to prune the vines back to the ground repeatedly, whenever they appear. Take a pair of scissors or shears and snip the bindweed vine off at ground level. Watch the location carefully and cut the vine back again when it appears.
This method forces the bindweed plant to use up its energy reservoirs in its roots, which will eventually kill it.
 
Controlling Bindweed with Aggressive Plantings
For as stubborn as bindweed can be, it has a very hard time competing with other aggressive plants. Often, bindweed can be found in poor soil where few other plants can grow. Improving the soil and adding plants that spread densely will force the bindweed out of the bed.
 
If you have bindweed in your lawn, dethatch the lawn [3] and apply fertilizer to help your lawn grow more compactly, which then makes it far more difficult for bindweed to grow.
 
Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are more environmentally friendly.
 
Article printed from Gardening Know How: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 
 

​   I was sent this article from one of my gardening center (IGC) .  So thought I would send it on to you about Epsom salt and how it doesn't work as a fertilizer.  Here is what he wrote. 
I gotta say, while some of these have some merit (compost is great, wood ash can help in overly acidic soil, egg shells are alright when ground up as described, and coffee grounds can be helpful, although not to acidify the soil as described) I think you are leading your customers down a path of woo and pseudoscience with some of the most popular items on this list, and potentially creating some pretty major obstacles to their success as gardeners along the way.

Epsom salts is basically an old wives tale. Magnesium deficiencies are the only justifiable reason to use them, and such deficiencies are very rare and even harder to properly diagnose without a laboratory soil test. Even when faced with a proven deficiency, high phosphorous will inhibit mag uptake, so all you're doing is salting the earth. More on that here: https://www.gardenmyths.com/epsom-salt-for-plants/ and https://blog-yard-garden-news.extension.umn.edu/.../myth...

Vinegar as a soil acidifier - doesn't work. To actually make any meaningful change in the pH of the soil, you'd be applying so much vinegar that you'd be causing harm to the plant and other microbial life. https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/.../vinegar-a-garden.../


Here is the article mention above as gardenmyth. 
Epsom Salt Myths in The Garden
Almost daily, I see a post in social media about using Epsom salt to cure all manner of plant problem. Planting a new plant; add Epsom salt to the planting hole. Are bugs your problem? Epsom salt will get rid of them. It also gets rid of diseases, and blemished on leaves. It makes tomatoes grow bigger, and produces a higher yield, with no Blossom End Rot. Roses are absolutely dependent on the stuff – you must put it in the planting hole every time.
 
If Epsom salt is such a miracle cure for plants, why is it that the scientific community does not know about it? Time to debunk this myth once and for all.
 
Epsom salt for plants
Epsom salt for plants – or is it best for a bath?
 
What is Epsom Salt?
Epsom salt is a very simple chemical consisting of magnesium, sulfate, and some water. The water is tied up in the crystalline structure of the chemical, and we can ignore it.
 
Magnesium is one of the nutrients plants need to grow. It is however, a minor nutrient which means plants don’t need very much of it.
 
Sulfate consists of sulfur and oxygen. Plants can absorb sulfate directly from the soil and use the sulfur molecule. It too is a minor nutrient for plants.
 
Epsom Salt Fertilizer
Epsom salt does work as a specific fertilizer. If your soil is deficient of magnesium or sulfur, it will add these nutrients to the soil. As far as garden soil goes neither of these nutrients is usually deficient. If you are adding any kind of organic material or organic mulch to the soil, your soil will likely have enough of both magnesium and sulfur.
 
Sandy soil and acidic soil may have a deficiency of magnesium (ref 1).
 
It should not be added to soil unless a soil test shows you that you need to add more. If you need only sulfur and not magnesium, then horticultural sulfur is a much better product to use.
 
Just to be clear – the NPK numbers for Epsom salts is 0-0-0.
taken from https://www.gardenmyths.com/epsom-salt-for-plants
till next time this is Becky Litterer
 

taken from seasalt.com

     ​How to Make Your Own Fertilizer
 By Erin Huffstetler  Erin Huffstetler is the former frugal living expert for The Balance Everyday, where she covered best tips for saving money and getting out of debt.
 
Here are seven homemade fertilizer recipes for you to put to the test. They're made from ingredients you probably already have on hand, including some things you may be in the habit of throwing away.
 
Fast facts on Epsom salt fertilizer:
  Use in Place Of 
 ■ Houseplant food  ■ Vegetable fertilizer Rose plant food
 
 What You Need 
 ■ 1 Tablespoon Epsom salt
■ 1 gallon water
■ A watering can
 
 What You Do 
 1. Dissolve the Epsom salt in water.
2. Use the solution to water your plants.
3. Repeat once a month to maintain efficacy.
 
 Why This Works 
 
 
Epsom salt is made up of magnesium and sulfate – both vital plant nutrients. Some magnesium-loving plants to try it on: houseplants, roses, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes.
 
 Coffee Ground Fertilizer 
Fast facts on coffee ground fertilizer:
  Use in Place Of   Rose plant food  Soil acidifiers
 
 What You Need 
 ■ Used coffee grounds
■ A cookie sheet
■ Newspaper
  What You Do 
 1. Line a cookie sheet with newspaper.
2. Then, spread your used coffee grounds out on the sheet, and allow them to dry completely.
3. Sprinkle the grounds around the base of your acid-loving plants. Azaleas, roses, rhododendrons, and blueberries are just some of the plants that will benefit from this treatment.
 
 
Note: Be careful not to overdo it with the grounds. Even acid-loving plants can get too much acid.
  Why This Works 
 Coffee grounds are rich in nitrogen, magnesium, and potassium – all important plant nutrients. They're also naturally acidic, so they can help you boost the acidity of the soil.
 
Fast facts on egg shell fertilizer:
  Use in Place Of  Garden lime
  What You Need 
 ■ Eggshells
■ A blender
  What You Do 
 1. Save your eggs shells, and allow them to air dry.
2. Then, place the dried shells in a blender, and pulse until they're powdery-fine.
3. Sprinkle the shells around the plants in your garden.
 
Eggs shells are made up almost entirely of calcium carbonate – the main ingredient in agricultural lime.
 
Fast facts on vinegar fertilizer:
  Use in Place Of 
 Houseplant fertilizer
Rose plant food
Soil acidifiers
 
 What You Need 
 ■ 1 Tablespoon white vinegar
■ 1 gallon water
■ A watering can
 
 What You Do 
 1. Combine the white vinegar and water.
2. Use the solution to water your plants.
3. Repeat every three months.
 
 Why This Works 
 
The acetic acid in vinegar works to increase the acidity of the soil—just the thing for acid-loving plants. Just don't use straight vinegar to fertilize your plants. Undiluted vinegar is an herbicide.
 
Fast facts on fish tank water fertilizer:
 
 Use in Place Of Any fertilizer
  What You Need 
 ■ Used fish tank water
  What You Do  
 1. Save the dirty water from your fish tank.
2. Then, use it to water your plants.
  Why This Works 
 Used fish tank water is full of nitrogen and other nutrients that plants need to thrive.
 
Fast facts on fireplace ash fertilizer:
  Use in Place Of 
 Garden fertilizer
Garden lime
  What You Do 
 1. Sprinkle cool (never hot) fireplace ash over your garden beds, and work it into the soil.
Note: Fireplace ash should not be used if your soil is alkaline. It also shouldn't be used around acid-loving plants, unless you're trying to turn hydrangeas pink.
 
 Why This Works 
 
Fireplace ash is rich in potassium and calcium carbonate. If your soil is too acidic, it'll help to balance out the pH, so your plants are better able to absorb the nutrients that are present in the soil.
 
 What You Need 
 ■ Kitchen and garden scraps
  What You Do 
 ​1. Save your fruit and vegetable scraps, newspapers, grass clippings, and other compostable materials, and use them to start a compost bin or pile.
2. Add a bit of water from time to time, and turn your pile to speed up the composting process.
3. When everything has broken down into a dark, rich soil spread it in your garden, and enjoy the results.
 
 Why This Works 
 Compost is loaded with nutrients and microorganisms that are good for your garden.
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/make-your-own-fertilizer-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from extension.tennessee.edu

     ​    Another article about tomatoes and the brown spots at the bottom.  They are starting to ripen so enjoy....
How to Identify, Control, and Prevent Blossom-End Rot
 
Here are tips on how to identify, control, and prevent blossom-end rot on your tomatoes and other garden plants.
 
What is Blossom-End Rot?
Why are your tomatoes rotting on the bottom? Unfortunately, they probably have blossom-end rot. It is a common problem on tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and squash caused by a low concentration of calcium in the fruit. (Calcium is needed for normal cell growth.) Blossom-end rot usually occurs when there are wide fluctuations of moisture, which reduces uptake and movement of calcium into the plant. When the demand for calcium exceeds the supply, the tissues break down.
 
Calcium deficiency during fruit formation can also be caused by too much nitrogen fertilizer, high salt levels in the soil, or damage to plant roots during cultivation. Be aware of these causes when caring for tomatoes in order to prevent blossom-end rot.

Some blossom-end rot is more or less normal in the first tomatoes of the season, since the plants are usually under stress during the initial fruit set. If the damaged portion is small, you can trim it off and enjoy the rest of the tomato. Hopefully the problem will ease, because after all, no one wants rotten tomatoes!
 
How to Identify Blossom-End Rot Damage
Usually blossom-end rot occurs when the fruit is green or ripening. It starts with a small, depressed, water-soaked area on the blossom end of the fruit. As the spot enlarges, it becomes sunken and turns black or dark leathery brown in color.
 
Blossom-end rot appears as brown, sunken spots on your tomato.
 
Control and Prevention
How to Control Blossom-End Rot
•Remove the affected fruit. There is not much that can be done once the rot sets in. If the affected fruit is pinched off, the plant might blossom again and set normal fruit.
•Apply a liquid calcium fertilizer after removing the affected fruit.
 
Prevent Blossom-End Rot
•The key is soil preparation. Maintain a soil pH around 6.5. Lime the soil to increase the ratio of calcium ions to other competitive ions in the soil. Add crushed eggshells, gypsum, or bone meal to the transplant hole to fortify calcium intake.
•Maintain a more uniform moisture supply. Use mulches and/or irrigation to avoid drought stress. If it’s rainy, ensure plants have good drainage and soil dries out (but do not cease to water). Overall, plants need about once inch of moisture per week.
•Avoid cultivating, or hoeing, near the roots of tomato plants.
•For fertilizer, use nitrate nitrogen instead of ammoniacal nitrogen (as the latter increases blossom-end rot).
•Avoid over-fertilizing during early fruiting, when blossom-end rot is more likely to occur.
•Staking the plants when they’re young can also be helpful. See our video on properly staking tomatoes.
 
Plants Affected
•Tomatoes
•Bell Peppers
•Eggplants
•Squash (Zucchini)
taken from https://www.almanac.com/pest/blossom-end-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture fromdesktopnexus.com

      ​Welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
 
August in the Garden to Do List   By Marie Iannotti
  August gardening chores can be a mixed bag. For many gardeners, the month of August begins the downhill slide into offseason. Warm climate gardeners have a second chance, but some don't have a second wind after summer's heat. By all means, take some time to simply enjoy your garden and all the hard work you've put into it. But August weather is often milder than we expect and it's a great time to perk things up in the garden, after July's extremes.
 
Your garden plants are hardier than you think and there are plenty of gardening tasks for August that will keep your flower and vegetable gardens going longer, as well as opportunities to get a head start on next year's garden plans.
 
Garden To-Do List for the Sultry Month of August 
■ Seed a fall crop of peas and spinach and keep harvesting. Many flowers and vegetables will revive and continue producing if you regularly harvest the vegetables while they are young and tender and deadhead spent flowers.
■ Pick herbs for fresh use and for drying. Most herbs have a more concentrated flavor if they are not allowed to flower and frequent harvesting will accomplish that. Harvesting will encourage them to send out fresh, new growth and keep them growing longer.
■ Order spring bulbs for planting and forcing. You won't be able to plant them until later in the fall, but you will get the best selection if you order early.
■ Check that your mulch hasn't decomposed and add more as needed. While organic mulches are meant to continue decomposing on your garden beds and help feed the soil, you do not want to leave your soil uncovered at the end of the season. Bare soil is an invitation for weed seeds.
■ Spread a mid-season layer of compost or manure. Your plants will appreciate the extra boost to get them through the final growing months and your soil will need some amendments, too
■ Leave some annual seeds to self-sow. Many annual flowers, like cosmos, nigella, and cleome, will seed themselves throughout your garden. You'll be delighted next season with an abundant, natural scattering of flowers. Don't worry, any that seed in unwanted places will be easy to pull out early in the season.
■ Start saving seeds and taking cuttings. Focus on your top performers and sentimental favorites, so you will have them to grow again next year.
■ Remove any diseased foliage now, so it doesn't get lost in the fall leaves. Dispose of diseased plants in the garbage or burn them. Don't put them in the compost pile unless you are absolutely sure it will get hot enough to kill any lingering spores.
■ Cut back the foliage of early bloomers like Brunnera and hardy geraniums, to revitalize the plants. They are probably looking a bit tired and removing the older leaves will encourage fresh new growth.
■ Prune summer flowering shrubs as the flowers fade. This will help put the energy back into the leaves and roots of the plant, rather than into setting seed.
■ Trim and feed handing baskets to prolong their beauty. Sometimes we take hanging baskets for granted since they tend to be planted with profuse bloomers. However, they will need some TLC after working so hard setting flowers all summer.
■ Take pictures of your garden at peak. Take pictures of container combinations you'd like to repeat. This will give you reminders next season of what worked and which areas of your garden need some tweaking.
■ Make sure the cold frame is ready to go. Whether you plan to overwinter some tender plants in it or you won't need it until the early spring, you will want it set up and in place before the ground is suddenly covered in snow.
■ Begin dividing perennials. Start with the bearded iris. You will want to get your perennial divisions in the ground at least a couple of months before the ground freezes, so they will have time to set down roots.
■ Pot up perennial divisions for spring plant swaps. Sink the pots into the ground this fall and they'll be one less chore in the spring. (An empty spot in the vegetable garden is perfect for this. By the time you're ready to plant vegetables next spring, it will be time to lift
■ Plant trees, shrubs, and perennials now, so they can take root. Keep them well watered, until the ground freezes, since they have a limited root system.
■ Get your fall-blooming crocus and colchicum planted so they'll bloom on time. They bloom in the fall, but they need to be in the ground several weeks earlier.
 
 More for Zones 1 - 3    I think this would be us in zone 4 and 5. 
■ Start moving houseplants back indoors, so they get used to limited sun exposure and humidity. Do this while the windows are still open, to ease the transition. Maybe bring some outdoor plants inside, to overwinter, too.
 
 More for Zone 8 and Above 
Lucky you, your second gardening season is just beginning. Take some time to clean things up, getting rid of tired foliage and diseased leaves, then dig in and get planting.
■ Begin planting for the fall/winter vegetable garden. This is your peak season and a much more pleasant time to be in the garden than sweltering summer.
■ Plant a spring crop of garlic. Milder climates can plant soft-neck garlic, which is good for storing
■ Get the rose garden in shape for fall planting. Do some deadheading and pruning to shape plants and remove any tired foliage.
■ Order spring flowering bulbs for pre-chilling. If you live in an area that does not freeze in the winter, many bulbs will need a few months of artificial chilling, before they will bloom.
■ Feed citrus trees after harvesting. They will need extra fertilizer to recover.
 
Then sit back and enjoy all you've accomplished!
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/august-in-the-garden-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

picture from youtube.com

      ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs. 
 
I do believe I am going to share with you some of my favorite things....canning and processing is one of them.  The blink you hear when the jar seals is the most awesome sound.  Give it a try!  You will be very well rewarded in doing it. 
 
If you are blessed with an overabundance of fresh fruit and vegetables, preserve your harvest for winter. Canning is one time-honored way. Here’s an overview on how to can!
 
NOTE: Guidelines for safe canning are always being updated so use current information. Your local county extension office has a wealth of information about canning.
•Gather all your ingredients and equipment and make sure you have everything you need before you start. Halfway through the process is no time to be running to the store.
•Follow recipes and directions exactly. No improvising; your family’s safety depends on doing this correctly.
 
The Acid Test
Is the food you are canning high or low in acid? A pH of 4.6 is the dividing line; a higher pH number means less acidity and a lower pH number means more acidity.
 
Low acid vegetables such as green beans or corn need to be processed at a high temperature to prevent growth of deadly botulism which thrives in an airless, low acid, moist environment. This toxin is odorless and colorless and so potent that even a minute amount can cause paralysis and death. To kill it off, low acid foods must be processed at 240 degrees—hotter than boiling water. To maintain high enough temperatures for the proper length of time you need to invest in a pressure canner. This process is not for the novice.
 
No Pressure
Most low acid foods can be preserved in other ways and they will not only be safer but taste better. Broccoli, corn, and green beans taste much better when frozen and have better texture. Blanch them briefly in boiling water, cool down quickly in ice water, and pack them in bags or containers for the freezer.
 
Put ‘Em Up!
Harmful bacteria won’t survive in high acid conditions so pickles, relishes, salsas, and tomatoes are very safe for the beginning canner. (To be on the safe side, you can add extra acidity with lemon juice or vinegar.) Jams, jellies, fruits, and tomato and fruit juices are also highly acidic. They all can be safely processed in a boiling water bath. A water bath canner is just a large deep pot with a special rack to hold 6 to 8 jars.
 
To avoid canning burnout, start with a small project at first. Try a few jars of salsa instead of a bushel of tomatoes. Prepare the recipe and get the water in the canner boiling.
 
Put A Lid On It!
Sterilize the jars and keep them hot until you are ready to fill them. Use real canning jars and new 2- piece lids. Keep the flat part of the lid hot; the screw ring needs to be clean but not hot. Fill the jars to within 1/4 inch of the top, this is called head space and can vary depending on your recipe. Wipe the jar rim and threads clean and put on the lid. Tighten it only finger tight. Place jars on the rack in the boiling water so that they are covered by at least 1 inch of water. Count processing time once the water has returned to a boil.
 
Most pickles need only 5 minutes in boiling water. Lift out the whole rack to remove the jars and spread them out to cool. If you hear popping noises it is the jars sealing. Once the jars are cool check the seal; the center of the lid should be depressed. If a jar doesn’t seal put it in the fridge to eat right away. The sealed jars can be labeled and stored in the pantry for winter.
 
The sight of those gleaming jars full of delicious food is very satisfying!
 
If you found this overview interesting, we’d advise that you read the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning to make sure you read the latest on safe and effective canning.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/garden-journal/canning-and-preserving-your-harvest
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net