taken from weavershardware.com

      ​Mums are starting to hit the market now here in Northern Iowa which is good but also means we are coming to the fall season.  So you want a perennial mum?  You want a showy mum?  Here is a great article to discuss all about mums.  Because of my knee this year I will not be carrying mums.  BUT there are many in different stores in the area you will be able to find.  Thanks for asking.  I will see if next year I can get the mammoth Mums.  Read the article and you will see why. 
 
How to Grow the Most Gorgeous Chrysanthemums This Fall
When you think of chrysanthemums, do you picture showy corsages on homecoming queens or the all-too-familiar orange and yellow varieties you see in grocery stores at this time every year? Get ready to be amazed by the choices you have for growing what is still the brightest and most reliable fall-blooming flower.
Mums' blossoms may be as extravagant as a cheerleader's pom-pom or as dainty as a powder puff. They come in a rich palette that echoes autumn's vibrant golds, garnets, and corals and includes traditional solids as well as bicolor and even tricolor flowers.
Whatever your style — flashy or casual, restrained or formal — there's a mum for you. And best of all for home gardeners, mums are generally pest- and disease-resistant, making few demands beyond ample sunshine and consistent watering.
 
Planting Mums
In late summer when other plants call it quits, mums hit their stride. Like poinsettias, they're photoperiodic, meaning they rely on specific amounts of light to send the signal that it's time to start putting on a show.
 
On average, garden mums will not start to set buds until the nights last about 10 hours long. Blooms follow in six to 10 weeks. Cool temperatures don't bother mums, either. In fact, chilly weather intensifies colors and keeps blossoms looking fresh until a hard, killing frost drops the curtain on the gardening year. If you choose early-, mid-, and late-blooming varieties, you will enjoy a full seven weeks of bloom — a brilliant last act for any landscape.
When selecting varieties, there's wide range of types to pick from: decorative, daisy, and low-growing cushion mums as well as early-blooming anemones, quills, and spiders. The new European-style Prophets Series — from Greenhouse Grower, an Ohio-based wholesale breeder and nursery — boasts more than 100 blossoms per plant. These sturdy-stemmed, ball-shaped beauties were inspired by varieties beloved in Belgium, where All Saints' Day is celebrated each November first with lavish mum displays.
 
Growing Mums as Perennials
Though technically perennials, mums are often grown as annuals owing to shallow root systems inclined to heave right out of the ground during winter's freeze-thaw cycles. If you live where winter can be frigid (USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 3 through 6), go with early-blooming varieties — they're more likely to come back in subsequent years. Those of you who live south of Zone 6 can push the envelope, opting for varieties that need more time to reach their full potential. When winter looms, apply a mulch of crisscrossed evergreen boughs to help plants make it through the cold weather ahead.
Several years ago, horticulturists at the University of Minnesota developed a new chrysanthemum hybrid described by perennial breeder Neil Anderson, Ph.D., as a "hardy shrub mum." Dubbed the My Favorite Series, the robust plants were touted as reliably perennial as far north as zone 3b. They have been hard to find the past couple of years but returned to the market this year under a new name, the Mammoth Series.
True to their new designation, these oversize mums can measure 2 to 3 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet across by their third season,with a massive canopy of flowers — up to 5,000 per plant. Monarch butterflies adore these shrubby wonders.
Finally, to further increase the odds that your chrysanthemums will survive winter, consider planting them in spring as opposed to late summer, to give root systems ample time to become established.
 
Caring for Mums
Soil: While mums thrive in just about any soil type, they do benefit from generous helpings of homemade compost. Dig in a spadeful at planting time and topdress with more. Soil must be well drained, however, or the plants will rot.
 
Sunshine: Mums planted in full sun bloom more profusely than those in partial shade. An optimal site receives six to eight hours of direct light.
Water: Shallow-rooted mums dry out quickly. Be sure to water consistently, especially during dry spells and in fall, when plants are storing up energy for winter survival.
Pinching Back: If you don't like the leggy look (who does?), remove the tips of stems early in the season to encourage branching. Repeat the process every two weeks until mid-July. Mums purchased as annuals in late summer do not require this treatment.
 
Taking Cuttings From Mums
Creating new plants from your favorite mums is easy, says Galen Goss, executive director of the National Chrysanthemum Society. Simply snip off a 4-inch stem with leaves on it and put it in a pot filled with a soilless medium, such as vermiculite. Keep it moist and outdoors in a bright spot.
After a couple of weeks, repot the cutting (which has sprouted roots) to a small container filled with potting soil. Fertilize once a week. Two to three weeks later, transplant it to the garden and keep fertilizing. You'll enjoy flowers that very autumn!
 
Planning Your Mum Garden
▶︎Use shorter cushion mums to carpet a slope. Foot-tall mounds of lush foliage make an attractive groundcover until late summer, when colorful flower heads steal the show.
▶︎Start a nursery bed where you can grow your own mums from cuttings. In late summer, transfer the ready-to-bloom plants into the garden to take the place of tired-looking annuals.
▶︎When a killing frost is predicted, pot up your mums and bring them indoors to adorn the Thanksgiving table.
▶︎Plant taller varieties for use as cut flowers. After cutting, split the stem ends so they can take up water more efficiently.
 
Choosing Mum Varieties
For stopping traffic: The spider mum Senkyo Kenshin stands 3½ feet tall. It blooms midseason, with about 27 striking, reddish-bronze blossoms per plant.
For brilliant color: Jessica has joyful, bright yellow blossoms. This midseason decorative mum is from the Prophets Series.
For double duty: An old favorite, French Vanilla has 3½ inch white flowers. Grow in a mixed border or cutting garden.
For cold climates: Minnautumn is an extremely cold-hardy — to zone 3 — decorative cushion mum. It's only 15 inches tall, with vivid orange-red flowers.
For the vase: Carousel, a purple quill mum, is an elegant cut flower. Huge blossoms measure up to 4 inches across.
 
taken from https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/gardening/a20705668/growing-mums/
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from publicdomainpictures.net

picture from fablunch.com

     ​    I have some tomatoes and peppers given to me.  I am hungry for salsa so have been looking at fresh salsa.  Then I wondered how long that keeps.  This is what I found.
 
four to seven days
Stored in an airtight container, fresh salsa keeps for four to seven days in the refrigerator. After this time, throw the salsa away and wash the container.
 
I looked up how long cooked salsa will keep.
How long can you keep homemade salsa?
Homemade salsa will generally keep for about 5 to 7 days, assuming it has been continuously refrigerated. ... Properly stored, salsa will maintain best quality in the freezer for about 2 months, but will remain safe beyond that time.
 
So I think I will make my canning salsa recipe but just cut it back as I don't feel like I can process the jars right now, just have some to eat.  What do you do with your extra tomatoes and peppers?
 
Harvest Time For Tomatoes: When To Pick Tomatoes
When it’s harvest time for tomatoes, I think there should be a celebration; perhaps a federal holiday should be declared — I love this fruit so much. There are a multitude of ways to prepare tomatoes from dried to roasted, to stewed, canned, even frozen (as many as there are tomato varieties.
 
If you’re lucky enough to be able to grow your own tomatoes, the question is when are tomatoes ready to harvest? Tomatoes are sneaky. We’re used to purchasing vibrant red tomatoes from the grocers, but the fact is that color is not a good indicator of when to pick tomatoes. Waiting for a time when the fruit is uniformly red may be a little late for picking the tomatoes.
 
When to Pick Tomatoes
Tomatoes are gassy — I mean they emit a gas. Ethylene gas [3] is produced by fully formed mature green tomatoes. Inside the mature green tomato, two growth hormones change and cause the production of the gas, which in turn ages the cells of the fruit, resulting in softening and loss of the green color, turning into a red shade [4]. The ethylene increases the carotenoids (red and yellow colors) and decreases the chlorophyll (green color).
 
Because of this process, tomatoes are one of the only vegetables, I mean fruit, which can be picked before it is completely ripened. Harvest time for tomatoes should ideally occur when the fruit is a mature green and then allowed to ripen off the vine [5]. This prevents splitting or bruising and allows for a measure of control over the ripening process.
 
How to Harvest Tomato Fruit
Harvest time for tomatoes will occur at the end of its growing season, usually late summer, once the tomatoes are at their mature green stage. Tomatoes harvested before this, such as those you buy at the supermarket, have often been picked before this stage so they can ripen during transport and, thus, have a lesser flavor than those left on the vine a bit longer.
 
There is a fine line when picking tomatoes at the mature green stage. Look for the first light blush of color as an indicator of when to pick tomatoes to ensure no loss in their essence. Of course, you can also harvest tomato fruit when it is ripe; ripe fruit will sink in water. These vine ripened tomatoes may be the sweetest, but some types of tomato are too heavy to vine ripen, hence picking tomatoes at their mature green stage and allowing the ethylene gas to continue the ripening process.
 
The “how” to harvest tomato fruit is pretty basic. Watch the bottom of the fruit carefully, as this is where tomatoes begin to ripen, especially large heirloom varieties [6]. Lightly squeeze the fruit to test for firmness. Once the first bloom of red appears on the skin of the tomato, harvest time for tomatoes are nigh.
 
Grasp the fruit firmly, but gently, and pull from the plant by holding the stem with one hand and the fruit with the other, breaking the stalk just above the calyx that has formed to protect the bud.
 
Once you’ve harvested the tomatoes, store them indoors to continue to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen faster if wrapped in newsprint, which will contain the ethylene gas and hasten the process. Store them at 55-70 F. (13-21 C.) — or cooler if you wish to slow the ripening and warmer to hasten it, and check routinely for ripeness. They may last from three to five weeks stored this way.
 
Taken from https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/harvest-time-for-tomatoes.htm
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

picture from toniandrukatis.word

     ​     So here is today's question. 
Does this make sense as a weather prediction?   We will have to keep track of this won't we.  Do you have any weather predictions like this to share with us?  I got these from the Farmers Almanac and most of them I haven't heard.  How about you? 
 
When October and November are warm and rainy, January and February are frosty and cold; but if October and November be snow and frost, then January and February are open and mild.”

• “If the sun rises red and fiery, it betokens more or less wind or rain.” This observation agrees with the old English rule: If red the sun begins his race, be sure that rain will fall apace.
• “If cloudy at sunrising, and it so decreases, it is a certain sign of fair weather.” Agreeable to this is an observation of Pliny’s, in his Natural History, in which says: If at sunrising the clouds are driven away and retire as it were to the west, it denotes fair weather.
• “Little round clouds like a dapple grey, and at the same time a north wind blows, denote fair weather for a few days.”
• “If the sun be surrounded with an iris, or circle of white clouds, and they equally fly away, ‘tis a sign of fair weather.”
• And this old English proverb is often right: “In the decay of the moon, a cloudy morning bodes a fair afternoon.”
• “If the weather be hazy, and the wind falls away, and small clouds increase, depend on much rain, and that soon.”
• “When mists rise in low ground and soon vanish, nothing is a surer sign of fair weather; when they are heavy, rise slowly, and keep visible on the hilltops, they soon fall down in rain, which, however, seldom lasts long.”
• “A mist in the morning, before sunrising, and at or about the full of the moon, betides fair weather; if mists appear in the new moon, you may depend on more or less rain in the old; and when they arise in the old, there is generally rain in the new.”
• “If the wind shifts from the north to the south in a few days without rain and turns north again with rain, returns to the south in one or two days, and so on for two or three keeps shifting, it will afterwards fix south or west two months or more.”
• “In summer, or autumn, when the wind has been in the south two or three days, and the weather very hot, and the clouds rise one above another with white tops, like battlements of a tower, and joined together, and black on the hills, depend on thunder and rain very speedily.”
• “You may sometimes see two clouds, one to the left, another to the right, which denote a sudden shower.”
• “When clouds float in a serene sky, you may expect winds, and if they rise from the south, depend on rain; if you see them driving at sunset, come from what quarter they will, depend on a tempest approaching. Clouds that have a dusky hue and move slowly are laden with hail; if they have a blue cast, with large hail; if yellow, small.”
• “The faster it rains, the sooner it will be over, and sudden rains never last long. But when the air grows thick, and the sun, moon, and stars shine dim, then it is likely to rain six hours successively.”
• “When it rains an hour or two before sunrising, it generally clears before noon and continues so the whole day; if the rain sets in an hour or two after sunrising, it generally rains all day, unless the rainbow appears a little before the rain begins, and then it seldom lasts long.”
• “When October and November are warm and rainy, January and February are frosty and cold; but if October and November be snow and frost, then January and February are open and mild.”

Do any of these observations ring true to you? Do you have weather observations of your own?
taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/weather-folklore-shepherds-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

picture from pinterest.com 

     ​     I got some good response from my posting yesterday about what family bee balm is in?  Many of you knew it was the mint family....very good.  So now for a couple of more questions and answers are at the end of this posting.
 
1. Daylilies are an easy perennial to grow, so easy you don't have to do anything with them from deadheading to trimming back?  True or False
 
2. Daylilies are one of the many true lilies like Asiatic lilies.  True or false 
Let us know what you think....A question or two are fun I am finding out. 
 
     While it is tempting to cut back the whole flower garden in the fall, even in colder climates, it can be nice to leave some perennials standing throughout winter months. The seeds of echinacea and rudbeckia will attract and feed the birds and sedum will hold onto snow like frosting. There are also plants that like the protection their foliage provides for their crowns like asclepias (butterfly weed), chrysanthemums, and heuchera (coral bells), which all fare best if cleaned up in the spring. But, there are other plants that will need to be pruned in the fall.
 
No one can pinpoint when the frost and snow will come. Many gardens survive just fine with no attention at all in the fall. This listing can serve as a guideline, but all gardens are unique. What works for one, may not work for another. It never hurts to take some time and put your garden to bed in the fall.
 
Some perennials do not handle rough weather well. They will not remain attractive after frost, and they have recurrent problems with pests and diseases, which will overwinter in their fallen foliage and surface in the spring. These perennial flowers are best cut down in the fall. If they are diseased, throw the foliage away, do not even compost it. There will always be exceptions and time will play a factor.
 
Here are some more work to do with perennials.  I found this list interesting.  Have you grown Bronze fennel. I love the look of this herb and it is a host plant for the Black Swallowtail Butterflies.  Zone 5 so we might find it hard to winter over here.  BUT plant it as a great annual plant. 
 
Bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare "Purpureum") 
 Bronze fennel has increased in popularity lately and can be found accenting many gardens. The foliage provides food for swallowtail caterpillars, which can leave the stems completely stripped by fall. If that is the case, it is no longer providing any useful service and can be cut back to the ground. It grows best in USDA zones 5 through 9.
 
 Catmint (Nepeta) 
Nepetas respond well to severe pruning throughout the season. The foliage will be damaged by winter cold and will need to be cut back anyway, so get a head start by pruning in the fall. It grows best in USDA zones 3 through 8.
 
Columbine (Aquilegia) 
 Remove any foliage showing leaf miner damage and remove any debris around the base of the plants. Aquilegia sends out growth early in spring and would likely appreciate not having the old foliage to contend with. It grows best in USDA zones 3 through 9.
 
  Corydalis (Corydalis lutea) 
 It is hard to kill corydalis, but if you would rather cut back on its enthusiastic spreading habit and it has not been deadheaded during the summer, cut it back after a killing frost. It grows best in USDA zones 5 through 7.
 
Crocosmia (Crocosmia) 
 The flowers of crocosmia fall off naturally once blooming has finished and the seed heads can offer interest, but the foliage eventually heads downhill and there is nothing to be gained by leaving it up through winter.
 
Daylily (Hemerocallis) 
 Daylilies respond well to shearing and unless you are in an area where they remain somewhat evergreen, fall pruning will save you a messy cleanup in the spring. It grows best in USDA zones 3 through 9.
 
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/perennial-plants-to-cut-back-in-the-fall
 
answer to the question do I need to cut back the daylilies this fall? 
Fall Care of Daylilies
Daylilies bloom in a variety of colors, depending on the cultivar.
 
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are by far one of the easiest flowers to grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10. Sure, you can let them be and enjoy their colorful, lily-like flowers, especially in the first year. But, to maximize their growth and number of blooms for years to come, adopt a few cultural habits when growing daylilies, some of which are best performed in the fall.
 
1  Water flowering daylilies one or two times a week with 1 inch of water to keep them blooming. Do this only if rain is lacking or scarce. Reblooming varieties such as "'Stella de Oro" flower in the fall.
 
2  Pinch or cut off spent blooms if your daylilies are a reblooming variety and flowered in the fall. This practice cleans up the garden and prevents the daylilies from using their energy to make seeds.
 
3  Remove or cut off daylily foliage with a pair of hand clippers only when it starts to yellow, not while it is still green. This habit prolongs the time the daylilies have to photosynthesize sunlight into energy, which will result in more blooms the following year.
 
4  Lift the clump with a garden fork after cutting back the foliage if your daylilies are overcrowded and not blooming well. Brush and shake off the soil and separate the roots and the base of the foliage, called fans, with your hands. Use a clean knife, if necessary, to divide the mass of daylilies into sections. Each section should have roots and fans.
 
5  Replant the divided sections in full sun to partial shade at the same depth as before. Space divisions 1 to 2 feet apart. Daylilies grow well in most soil types, but they prefer well-drained soil rich in organic matter.
Tip
◾To create the ideal planting bed for daylilies, cultivate the soil about 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in approximately 4 inches of organic matter, such as compost or chopped leaves, before planting.
taken from https://homeguides.sfgate.com/fall-care-daylilies
 
Answer to the question are day lilies really true lilies? 
The Difference Between Asiatic Lilies and Daylilies
Daylilies brighten dark spots in the garden.
 
Daylilies (Hemerocallidaceae) and Asiatic lilies (Lilium spp.) are popular types of lilies for gardens in Mediterranean type climates. Asiatic lilies are one of the easiest lilies to grow. A colorful addition to any garden, Asiatic lilies are extremely hardy, are not particular about soil type and require no staking. Daylilies are often known as the "perfect perennial" as they require little maintenance and thrive in almost any soil condition. Although they are similar in care and cultivation, daylilies and Asiatic lilies have unique and distinctly different characteristics.
 
Origin
A member of the plant family Liliaceae (Lily), Asiatic lilies are native to Japan and China. Daylilies are not true lilies, although they are also native to Asia, belonging to the genus Hemerocallis.
 
Flowers
Depending on species and cultivar, Asiatic lilies exhibit flowers that are 4-5 inches in diameter on 20- to 36-inch stems. They display three to 12 flowers per stem. Cultivars are available in shades of white, tan, orange, yellow and red. Popular Asiatic lily cultivars include "Grand Prix" (red), "Connecticut King" (yellow), "Roma" (white), "Enchantment" (orange), "Moulin Rouge" (red), and "Sterling Star" (white). Asiatic lilies present little or no fragrance. Asiatic lilies are popular with the floral industry as long-lasting cut flowers for arrangements and corsages.
 
Daylilies grow up to 4 feet tall and may require staking, and the flowers last for only one day. Daylilies typically bloom in the morning and die in the evening. There are also daylily varieties that are nocturnal, only blooming during nighttime hours. Because of their short blooming period, they are unsuitable as cut flowers. There are many varieties of daylilies in many sizes and flower colors including red, orange, yellow, pink, purple and blue. Daylilies are deer- and disease-resistant. Hemerocallis "Bright Sunset" is a hybrid that displays flowers up to 6 inches wide in deep shades of orange and red. The center of the flower is a luminescent pale green. A vigorous grower with deep-green, lush foliage, the plant is well-suited for mass planting in flower beds or along a garden pathway.
 
Hardiness
Asiatic lilies thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 through 10. Dayliies can be cultivated in all USDA plant hardiness zones.
 
Cultivation
Daylilies grow best in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil in a full-sun location. They are very drought tolerant and cannot survive in constantly damp soil. Savvy gardeners provide supplemental water during the blooming period to encourage floral development. Daylilies form large clumps and should be planted at least 3 feet apart to accommodate growth. Daylilies benefit from regular applications of organic fertilizer with a high nitrogen content.
 
Outdoors, Asiatic lily tubers are planted in either the fall or spring. Asiatic lilies can also be forced to bloom as an indoor container planting. Hybrids that lend themselves to forcing include L. auratum, L. speciosum and L. longiflorum. Bulbs must be kept in a cool environment so that they will flower without a natural winter chill. When gardeners force Asiatic lilies, the plant is brought into the warmth of the home or heated greenhouse for flowering six weeks after planting.
 
taken from tps://homeguides.sfgate.com/difference-between-asiatic-lilies-daylilies-34849.html
 till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 
 
 
 
 

taken from gardening knowhow.com

         While it is tempting to cut back the whole flower garden in the fall, even in colder climates, it can be nice to leave some perennials standing throughout winter months. The seeds of echinacea and rudbeckia will attract and feed the birds and sedum will hold onto snow like frosting. There are also plants that like the protection their foliage provides for their crowns like asclepias (butterfly weed), chrysanthemums, and heuchera (coral bells), which all fare best if cleaned up in the spring. But, there are other plants that will need to be pruned in the fall.
 
No one can pinpoint when the frost and snow will come. Many gardens survive just fine with no attention at all in the fall. This listing can serve as a guideline, but all gardens are unique. What works for one, may not work for another. It never hurts to take some time and put your garden to bed in the fall.
 
Some perennials do not handle rough weather well. They will not remain attractive after frost, and they have recurrent problems with pests and diseases, which will overwinter in their fallen foliage and surface in the spring. These perennial flowers are best cut down in the fall. If they are diseased, throw the foliage away, do not even compost it. There will always be exceptions and time will play a factor.
 
Here are three more perennials to be cut back in the fall.
Beebalm (Monarda didyma) 
 Even the most resistant varieties of Monarda can succumb to mildew. When that happens, you will be cutting them back long before fall. Fresh, new growth can be left on until spring. Sometimes selective thinning of the stems is all that is needed and you can leave the remaining seed heads for the birds. It grows best in USDA zones 4 through 9.
For your information.  If you this summer in some of the Iowa Fields have seen a light purple blooms on areas that isn't growing corn or beans.  I found out it was Monarda.  Butterflies love these so what a good conservation practice that is.  I bet the bees like it also. 
 
Beebalm belongs to the mint family with that square stem.  All mints have square stems so easy to identify.
​
Blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis) 
Prune to keep the foliage from collapsing and causing the crown to rot and to avoid borers. It grows best in USDA zones 5 through 10.
 
 Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora) 
 Gaillardia is a pretty hardy plant, but cutting back the spent stems seems to improve its hardiness even more by improving its vigor. It grows best in USDA zones 3 through 10.
taken from taken from https://www.thespruce.com/perennial-plants-to-cut-back-in-the-fall  till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

taken from busygardening.com

      ​Good morning, welcome to my Garden show, Gardening and you.  I am Becky Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse in Dougherty.  This show is about more than just the different aspects of gardening, it’s about how we can help you with your gardening needs.
      So where did summer go?  Here in Iowa it does feel like fall even though we have another month before the fall starts.  Now time to think about working up the garden for winter and the next spring season.  What perennials to cut back in the fall? 
 
     While it is tempting to cut back the whole flower garden in the fall, even in colder climates, it can be nice to leave some perennials standing throughout winter months. The seeds of echinacea and rudbeckia will attract and feed the birds and sedum will hold onto snow like frosting. There are also plants that like the protection their foliage provides for their crowns like asclepias (butterfly weed), chrysanthemums, and heuchera (coral bells), which all fare best if cleaned up in the spring. But, there are other plants that will need to be pruned in the fall.
 
No one can pinpoint when the frost and snow will come. Many gardens survive just fine with no attention at all in the fall. This listing can serve as a guideline, but all gardens are unique. What works for one, may not work for another. It never hurts to take some time and put your garden to bed in the fall.
 
Some perennials do not handle rough weather well. They will not remain attractive after frost, and they have recurrent problems with pests and diseases, which will overwinter in their fallen foliage and surface in the spring. These perennial flowers are best cut down in the fall. If they are diseased, throw the foliage away, do not even compost it. There will always be exceptions and time will play a factor.
Bearded Iris 
 The tall foliage of bearded iris begins flopping early in the season. By fall, it becomes cover for iris borers and fungal diseases. Cut back after a killing frost and dispose of the foliage, rather than composting it. It grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 10.
taken from taken from https://www.thespruce.com/perennial-plants-to-cut-back-in-the-fall
 
Also the question about when to divide Iris so here is that information. 
Dividing and Moving Iris – How To Transplant Iris
Transplanting iris is a normal part of iris care. When well cared for, iris plants [1] will need ro be divided on a regular basis. Many gardeners wonder when is the best time to transplant iris and how should one go about moving iris from one place to another. Keep reading to learn more about how to transplant iris.
 
Signs You Need to Transplant Iris
There are a few signs that you should consider dividing iris plants.
The first sign that your iris need divided will be decreased blooming. Overcrowded iris rhizomes will produce fewer flowers than uncrowded iris rhizomes. If you have noticed that your iris are blooming less than they have, you may need to transplant the iris in your garden.
 
The next sign that you should consider transplanting your iris is if the rhizomes start heaving out of the ground. Overcrowded iris rhizomes will start to push on each other, which results in the entire root system of your iris plants literally pushing themselves out of the ground. The iris roots may look like a mass of snakes or a pile of spaghetti when they need to be divided. They may even stop putting up foliage and the plants may only grow foliage on the outside edges of the clump.
 
When to Transplant Iris
The best time when to transplant iris is in the summer, after the iris have finished blooming, up until fall.
 
Steps for Dividing Iris Plants
To divide your iris, start by lifting the clump of iris plants out of the ground with a spade or fork. If possible, lift the whole mass out whole, but if you are unable to do this, carefully break the clump into smaller parts and lift these out.
 
Next, brush of as much dirt as possible from the iris rhizomes. This will make it easier to see when you are breaking the clumps apart.
 
The next step in dividing iris plants is to divide the iris rhizomes. Each iris rhizome should be divided into pieces that are 3 to 4 inches long and have at least one fan of leaves on the rhizome. Do not remove the roots from the rhizomes.
As you get closer to the center of the clump, you may find large sections of rhizomes that have no leaf fans. These can be discarded.
Check all of the divided iris rhizomes for iris borers and disease. The iris rhizomes should be firm and not soft. If the rhizome feels soft, throw it away.
 
Steps for Transplanting Iris
Once the iris rhizomes have been divided, you can replant them. First, trim all of the iris leaf fans back to about 6 to 9 inches tall. This will allow the plant to re-establish its roots without having to support a large amount of foliage at the same time.
 
Next, plant the iris rhizomes in the selected location. This location should receive a good deal of sunlight and should be well draining. Dig a hole where the rhizome will settle into the ground just below the ground level. If planting several iris near each other, point the rhizomes away from each other and space them 18 inches apart.
 
Spread the roots out around the rhizome and then cover the roots and the rhizome with dirt. Water the newly transplanted iris plants well.
 
taken from  https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/iris/dividing-transplanting-iris.
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

taken from Wikipedia.org

     ​     So I am back to posting on this blog. I had complete knee surgery on the 13th, and then had a little hiccup so had to go back into surgery a week later.  BUT now I am on the mend and ready to start back for PT and regular routine.  DID you miss me?  I miss writing to you, and now getting back into writing what this time of year with gardening.  I have had dahlia this year, and didn't grow very well for me in a container.  So how about you?  Did you raise any?  I will transplant them into bigger pots for next season and see how they grow.  I so remember my mom having them, and also Larry's mom having lots of dahlias when we were first married.  Let me know what luck you have with dahilas.  I know you have to dig them up in the fall but they are so worth it aren't they.  LOVE the bloom.         
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Dahlias
 2019 is the Year of the Dahlia! These colorful, spiky, daisy-like flowers bloom from midsummer right through first frost, when many other plants are past their best. Plant bulbs in the springtime and prepare to be wowed! Learn more about dahlias, growing tips, and new varieties.
 
The National Garden Bureau has selected the beautiful dahlia as the bulb of the year.
Dahlia is a genus of tuberous plants that are members of the Asteraceae family; related species include the sunflower, daisy, chrysanthemum, and zinnia. They grow from small, brown, biennial tubers planted in the spring.
 
Picking a favorite dahlia is like going through a button box. As well as coming in a rainbow of colors, dahlia flowers can range in size from petite 2-inch lollipop-style pompoms to giant 15-inch “dinner plate” blooms. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall. 
 
They are considered a tender perennial in cold regions North America. They are only winter hardy in planting zones 8 to 11. Gardeners in zones 2 to 7 can simply plant dahlia tubers in the spring and either treat them as annuals or dig them up and store for winter.
 
Dahlias love moist, moderate climates. Though not well suited to extremely hot climates (southern Florida or Texas), dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long.
 
Planting
When to Plant Dahlias
•Don’t be in a hurry to plant; dahlias will struggle in cold soil. Ground temperature should reach 60°F. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting. (We plant them a little after the tomato plants go in.)
•Some gardeners start tubers indoors in containers a month ahead to get a jump on the season. Medium to dwarf-size dahlias will do well in containers.
 
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
•Select a planting site with full sun. Dahlias grow more blooms with 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They love the morning sunlight best. Choose a location with a bit of protection from the wind.
•Dahlias thrive in rich, well-drained soil. The pH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic.
•If you have a heavier (clay) soil, add in sand, peat moss, or aged manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage.
•Large dahlias and those grown solely for cut flowers are best grown in a dedicated plot in rows on their own, free from competition from other plants. Dahlias of medium to low height mix well with other summer flowers. If you only have a vegetable garden, it’s the perfect place to put a row of dahlias for cutting (and something to look at while you’re weeding!).
How to Plant Dahlias
•Avoid dahlia tubers that appear wrinkled or rotten. Pink “eyes” (buds) or a little bit of green growth are good signs. Don’t break or cut individual dahlia tubers as you would potatoes.
•Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller flowering types, which are usually about 3 feet tall, should be spaced 2 feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced 3 feet apart. If you plant dahlias about 1 foot apart, they make a nice flowering hedge and will support each other.
•The planting hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. It also helps to mix a handful of bonemeal into the planting hole. Otherwise, do not fertilize at planting.
•Dig a hole that’s about 6 to 8 inches deep. Set the tubers into it, with the growing points, or “eyes,” facing up, and cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil (some say 1 inch is adequate). As the stem sprouts, fill in with soil until it is at ground level.
•Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.
•Dahlias start blooming about 8 weeks after planting, starting in mid-July.
•Do not water the tubers right after planting; this encourages rot. Wait until the sprouts have appeared above the soil to water.
•Do not bother mulching the plants. The mulch harbors slugs and dahlias like the sun on their roots.
Care  How to Grow Dahlias
Watering
•There’s no need to water the soil until the dahlia plants appear; in fact, overwatering can cause tubers to rot. After dahlias are established, provide a deep watering 2 to 3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler (and more in dry, hot climates).
•Like many large-flower hybrid plants, the big dahlias may need extra attention before or after rain, when open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind.
Fertilizing
•Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer (similar to what you would use for vegetables) such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20. Fertilize after sprouting and then every 3 to 4 weeks from mid-summer until early Autumn. Do NOT overfertilize, especially with nitrogen, or you risk small/no blooms, weak tubers, or rot.
Pinching, Disbudding, and Staking
•When plants are about 1 foot tall, pinch out 3-4 inches of the growing center branch to encourage bushier plants and to increase stem count and stem length.
•If you want to grow large flowers try disbudding—removing the 2 smaller buds next to the central one in the flower cluster. This allows the plant to put all of its energy into fewer but considerably larger flowers.
•Bedding dahlias need no staking or disbudding; simply pinch out the growing point to encourage bushiness, and deadhead as the flowers fade. Pinch the center shoot just above the third set of leaves.
•For the taller dahlias, insert stakes at planting time. Moderately pinch, disbranch, and disbud, and deadhead to produce a showy display for 3 months or more.
 
Winter Care
•Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost.
•Dahlias are hardy to Zone 8 and can be cut back and left in the ground to overwinter; cover with a deep, dry mulch. Further north, the tuberous roots should be lifted and stored during the winter. (Some readers find, however, that dahlias will survive in Zone 7 if the winter isn’t too severe.)
Pests/Diseases
•Slugs and snails: Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
•Mites: To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
•Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle: They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
•Aphids
•Deer: Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
•Powdery Mildew: This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August.
Harvest/Storage
Dahlias are beautiful in a vase. Plus, the more you cut them the more they will bloom.
To gather flowers for a bouquet, cut the stems in the morning before the heat of the day and put them into a bucket with cool water. Remove bottom leaves from the stems and place the dahlias in a vase. Put the vase in a cool spot and check the water daily. The bouquet should last about a week.
 
Taking Up the Tubers
In cold regions, if you wish to save your plants, you have to dig up the tubers in early fall tubers after the first frost in the fall and store them over the winter.
Dahlias may be hardy to USDA Zone 8. There, they can be left in the ground to overwinter. In areas that get frost, including most parts of Zone 5, a killing frost—or a touch of frost—can help the bulb to shut down/go dormant. See your local frost dates.
•After fall frost has blackened the foliage, cut off all but 2 to 4 inches of top growth
•Carefully dig tubers without damaging them.
•Lift and gently shake the soil off the tubers.
•Cut rotten tubers off the clump and leave the clumps outside in the sun upside down to dry naturally.
•Pack in a loose, fluffy material (vermiculite, dry sand, Styrofoam peanuts).
•Store in a well-ventilated, frost-free place—40 to 45º F is ideal, 35 to 50º F is acceptable.
•Take out the tubers in the spring, separate healthy tubers from the parent clump, and plant in the garden. Each tuber must have at least one “eye” or a piece of the crown attached or it will not develop into a blooming plant. The eyes are located at the base of the stem and look like little pink bumps.
•If this all seems like too much bother or you do not have the right storage place, skip digging and storing, and just start over by buying new tubers in the spring.
 
Recommended Varieties
There are about 60,000 named varieties and 18 official flower forms including cactus, peony, anemone, stellar, collarette, and waterlily. The American Dahlia Society recognizes 15 different colors and color combinations. Here are some popular choices:
•‘Bishop of Llandaff’: small, scarlet, intense flowers with handsome, dark-burgundy foliage
•‘Miss Rose Fletcher’: an elegant, spiky, pink cactus plant with 6-inch globes of long, quilled, shell-pink petals
•‘Bonne Esperance’, aka ‘Good Hope’: a foot-tall dwarf that bears 1-½-inch, rosy-pink flowers all summer that are reminiscent of Victorian bedding dahlias (though it debuted in 1948)
•‘Kidd’s Climax’: the ultimate in irrational beauty with 10-inch “dinnerplate” flowers with hundreds of pink petals suffused with gold
•‘Jersey’s Beauty’: a 7-foot tall pink plant with hand-size flowers that brings great energy to the fall garden.
Wit & Wisdom
•The dahlia was named for Anders Dahl (Swedish botanist), born on March 17, 1751.
•In the 16th century, dahlias grew wild on the hillsides in parts of Mexico. There, they were “discovered” by the Spanish, who remarked on the plant’s beauty.
•Both dahlia flowers and tubers are edible. The tubers taste like a cross between a potato and a radish.
 
The Dahlia you brought to our isle
 Your praises forever shall speak
‘Mid gardens as sweet as your smile
 And colour as bright as your cheek.
–Lord Holland (1773–1840)
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/dahlias
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

taken from puregracefarms.com

      ​       I am back.  Tuesday August 13th, I had a complete knee replacement on my right knee.  In January I had my left one done.  So surgery on Tuesday, home on Wed, Therapy on Thursday and now just getting better.  Sleeping ok, walking ok, pain isn't too bad.  So it is good.  I thought I better post or you are going to wonder.  Facebook is asking, so I am sure you are too.  How are your peppers in the garden?  Hope this is the year for peppers.  They grow and develop is a lot to do with the weather. 
       Peppers are such a lovely fruit. They come in many different colors, sizes and hotness. Plus, they’re easy to freeze to use all winter. See how.
 
Did you know: A green pepper is just an unripe one—give it time and it will turn red, orange, purple, yellow or chocolate brown!
 
Regular peppers are a delicious addition to a veggie dip; they have a distinctive crunch and a beautiful sweetness (if ripe). Stir-fried peppers and onions are phenomenal with hamburgers, hot dogs, sausages and steaks. They also begin my soups and are a great start for a chicken or steak stir-fry.
 
A Couple Growing Tips
Peppers like it fairly hot. They actually don’t set fruit when it is extremely hot but they do like it to be warm. When planting, I place them fairly close together—an open hand’s width apart seems to be ideal.
 
I also place several individual book matches in the hole before I plant them. This seems to help them to produce well. If the fruits get heavy, they can sometimes need support. Keep an eye out for this possibility.
 
Freezing Peppers
If frost threatens before the entire crop has matured, pick the entire plant out of the ground and wash the roots. These can then be hung upside down in a warmer place (finished porches work well) and the fruits will ripen. They may wrinkle a bit, but they still taste spectacular.
 
Peppers are the easiest thing in the world to freeze. They need no blanching whatsoever—just cut them into the size of pieces that you like to use and put them in the freezer.
 
I tend to use a lot of peppers during the year so I try to fill quite a few quart bags in season. I make sure that they can lay flat so that they will stack nicely in the freezer.
 
When it is time to use them, I can break off a large or small bunch and toss them directly into the pan. Most of the time, an onion or two is already there slowly frying in coconut oil (and a dash of salt) until soft. I like to wait until the oil begins to turn the color of the peppers (about 20 to 30 minutes) before continuing with my recipe. This ensures that both the onions and the peppers are soft and delicious.
I freeze much of my harvest! Whether you’re a gardener or just don’t want to throw away food, see my tips for freezing spinach and greens, freezing corn, and freezing Brussels sprouts.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/celestes-garden/freezing-peppers
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

      ​     Winning the Battle of the MIND
 
2 Corinthians 10: 5 IN as much as we refute arguments and theories and reasoning's and every proud and lofty thing that sets itself up against the knowledge of God, and we lead every thought and purpose away captives into the obedience of Christ the Messiah, the Anointed one.
 
     Satan has declared war on God's children, and our minds are the battlefield in which the war is won or lost.  Satan loves to put wrong thoughts into our minds, thoughts that are not in agreement with God's Word, hoping, we will meditate on them long enough for them to become reality in our lives.  We can cast down those wrong thoughts and bring every thought captive into the obedience of Jesus Christ.
 
   Be thankful that you can choose your own thoughts and that you are not a prisoner to whatever kinds of thoughts just fall into your mind.  Think good things that agree with God's word on purpose.  Think about God's love for you and the good plant He has for your life.  Think about how you can be a blessing to other people and how you can be a blessing to God by simply being available for Him to work through.  Thinking right thoughts will close the door to wrong ones and in the process it also closes the door to the devil.
 
I thank You Lord that I am Your child and I am greatly blessed.  Today, I choose to think God honoring thoughts, focusing on Your goodness in my life.  I am grateful that I can choose what thoughts I am going to dwell on.  AMEN
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@neints.net

picture from NASA

          Another love of mine, the sky...so here is the information about seeing Mercury this month.  Go to the website Alamanc and you can print off the map to see where Mercury will be.  BUT you have to get up early before sunrise to see it.  GOOD LUCK
See Elusive Planet Mercury at Dawn  By Jeff DeTray from AstronomyBoy.com
Spot the elusive planet Mercury in the east before sunrise! It’s a rare opportunity to get a glimpse of the Sun’s innermost planet.
 
Pass the sun-block!
 Can’t you see,
 It’s really bright,
 Cried Mercury . .
–Mr. R.’s World of Science (online)
 
Mercury ís brave
 close to the sun
 lost in its glare
 how quickly it runs
–Kamtime (online)
 
Poems devoted to the planet Mercury are few and far between, but they share common themes. They typically refer either to Mercury’s extreme relationship with the Sun or its speedy movement through the sky—or both. Mercury is closer to the Sun than any other planet and thus endures a surface temperature of up to 800°F. Sunblock, indeed! And Mercury is fast! It whips around the Sun once every 88 days, compared to our Earth’s 365 days. The ancient Romans noted how swiftly Mercury moves across the sky and named it for the fleet-footed Messenger of the Gods.
 
It’s a testament to the exquisite observing skills of ancient astronomers that they ever noticed Mercury at all. From our Earthly perspective, the innermost planet never ventures very far from the Sun; you have to know exactly when and where to look.
 
Spot Mercury Before Dawn
Fortunately, August brings the best opportunity to see the elusive planet.  Mercury rises before the Sun all of this month, and is surprisingly easy to see from now through August 27.
 
The planet attains a greatest elongation 19 degrees west of the Sun on August 9.
 
So, the several mornings before and after August 9 are the best times to see Mercury with the eye alone.
 
Here’s how:
•Go outside 30 to 45 minutes before sunrise. Consult the Almanac’s Sunrise and Sunset Calculator to find the exact time of sunrise for your location. With sunrise not far away, the sky will be brightening quickly, so don’t be late!
•Look to the east-southeast, low in the sky for a bright yellowish-orange “star.” If the skies are clear, you should even be able to see Mercury without a telescope for the planet is a bright as a 1st-magnitude star.
 
More about Mercury
Exploratory spacecraft have visited Mercury only twice!
1.In 1974–75, NASA’s Mariner 10 probe made three flybys of Mercury, sending back the first close-up photos and discovering that the tiny planet has its own magnetic field, a finding that surprised researchers.
2.Then, in 2011, NASA’s MESSENGER  (MErcury Surface, Space ENvironment, GEochemistry, and Ranging) spacecraft reached Mercury and went into orbit around it. MESSENGER spent the next four years collecting science data and making thousands of high-resolution photographs of Mercury. The MESSENGER photo reproduced on this month’s sky map shows how closely Mercury resembles the Moon, at least on its surface.
 
A third spacecraft is currently on its way to Mercury! BepiColombo is a collaboration between the European Space Agency and the Japanese Space Agency. The mission carries two separate probes, which will separate from one another once BepiColombo reaches Mercury in 2025.
 
Fortunately, you won’t have to wait that long to undertake your own exploration of Mercury. You merely have to wake up before dawn on August 9 or 10 (or thereabouts) to see the hot and speedy planet for yourself.
 
https://www.almanac.com/content/sky-map-august-  to see a map of the sky to find Mercury
​till next time, this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net