I had a question yesterday about the phlox blooming and there is something on them.  I predicted it was powdery mildew which it probably was.  It is the nature of the plant getting this powdery mildew.  Very often this will happen, but I looked up some information and this is what I found out about the garden phlox.  You should cut the damage part off, destroy and don't compost.  Clean up your cutting tool after so it doesn't care the mildew to other plants.  This can't not live in our winters so next year it will be a start of a clean slate with the growing of phlox.  I have noticed how nice the phlox are blooming this year, so enjoy and then just know if you get the powdery mildew it is a common thing among phlox. 
Here is the site I looked this up.  ? powdery mildew on phlox
 
      Attracting butterflies with its fragrant blooms, the garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) is an herbaceous perennial that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 4 through 8. The garden phlox requires full to partial sun in well-drained soil. This lovely plant with colorful flowers is highly susceptible to the damaging fungus known as powdery mildew.
     Unfortunately, the plants are often plagued by mold and mildew. The most common fungal problem is powdery mildew, which distorts foliage, weakens the plant and can reduce flowering. The mildew usually results in a white or gray powdery growth on leaves or flowers. Powdery mildew thrives in humid weather when temperatures are between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
     Powdery Mildew  One of the oldest known plant diseases, powdery mildew is a wide destructive force that can affect a wide array of plant species. Typically, the first sign of a powdery mildew infestation is a white, powdery growth on the branches and leaves of the garden phlox. The leaves will begin to discolor, turning yellow or brown before dropping off prematurely. In some instances, the shoots and leaves may begin to twist. If left untreated, powdery mildew can severely damage the plant and is highly contagious, spreading to nearby flowers, bushes and crops.
      Organic Treatment  A natural fungicide treatment against the harmful powdery mildew is skim milk. The amino acids and calcium in skim milk help eliminate the fungus without harsh chemicals. To begin, mix 9 parts water with 1 part skim milk and pour the concoction in a clean garden sprayer or spray bottle. Apply the organic powdery mildew treatment once every other week during the morning hours. The baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) commonly used for recipes, cleaning and removing odors can also eliminate powdery mildew from your garden phlox. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of baking soda for every quart of water and transfer the mixture to a spray bottle or garden spray. Liberally coat the top and underside of the leaves as well as the branches once a day every three days with the mixture.
       Prevention  The best defense against the fungus that causes powdery mildew is proper prevention. Provide adequate spacing between plants to allow for air circulation. Air circulating between the garden phlox helps keep the plant’s foliage dry and reduces the growth of the fungus. Furthermore, refrain from wetting the plant’s leaves angularly remove decaying or dead branches and sticks from under the plant. Decaying matter is a food source for powdery mildew fungus.  Keeping the plant dry this year has been the problem with all the rain we have had, and the high humidity. 
 
1  Cut out infected leaves and plant stems as soon as the powdery mildew is noticed. Use clean shears to prevent the spread of the spores to healthy plants.
 2 Remove all fallen leaves and dead plant material from the bed, but dispose of it rather than adding it to your compost pile. Old plant material can harbor powdery mildew spores.
3 Delay any scheduled fertilizer applications until the phlox has recovered from the powdery mildew infection. High nutrient levels in the soil can cause an increase in mildew growth.
4 Water phlox in the morning so that the excess moisture dries quickly. Light overhead watering can rinse spores off the plants, but wet foliage later in the day that doesn't dry quickly can increase mildew infestations.
5  Cut back the phlox to the ground in fall after the plants begin to die back. Remove all old plant material and mulch from the bed and dispose of it so that mildew spores don't survive over winter and reinfect the plants in spring.
Tip
Planting resistant phlox varieties can prevent most powdery mildew problems. Resistant varieties include “Natasha” (Phlox maniculata “Natasha”) and “David” (Phlox paniculata “David”).  till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa
  

          I had a question about geraniums this summer and not doing well.  The hot humid weather will affect them blooming but here is more information about the geranium. 
This information came from http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/flowers/outdoor-indoor-geranium-culture/
       The garden geranium is a favorite outdoor-indoor plant. It belongs to the genus Pelargonium which means “stork” in Latin. This plant has a long, slender fruit capsule that resembles a stork’s bill. There are over 200 Pelargonium species and many well-known hybrids. Most species originated in South Africa. The common garden geranium is Pelargonium hortorum.  Few plants offer such variation in flower color, growth habit, leaf pattern, and scent. Geranium flowers come in white, pink, salmon, red, fuchsia, lavender, and bi-colors. There are double flower types and old-fashioned singles. Growth habits range from trailing vine types to upright garden forms. Leaves may be nearly circular or deeply segmented and lacy. They can be green, green and white, or patterned with combinations of reds, yellows, and oranges. Although the flowers have an unpleasant odor, there are scented-leaf geraniums that are very pleasant. Aromas include lemon, orange, lime, peppermint, pineapple, nutmeg, rose, and many others.
        Martha or Lady Washington geraniums (Pelargonium domesticum) have the brightest flowers, with colors from purple black to vivid yellow. They do not make good garden plants in Minnesota, however, because they must have cool (50° to 60°F) night temperatures to blossom. This means they will bloom only in early summer and in autumn, not July or August.  Interesting about the Martha Washington geraniums, so I think that is true in Iowa.
       Though geraniums have traditionally been grown from cuttings in greenhouses, many are now grown from seed that is planted in small "plugs" then grown on before being sold. These hybrid seed geraniums may not be in full flower when you buy them, but they often outperform geraniums grown from cuttings, especially in late summer and early autumn. Seed-grown geraniums are a welcome addition to any sunny garden. Their color range is similar to that of cultivars propagated from cuttings. Elite, Maverick, Multibloom, Orbit, Pinto, and Ringo are just some of the color series of seed geraniums that are available. We have many red seed geraniums left so if you want some color this fall, stop in and pick some up.  They are $1.00 for 4 plants. 
     Outdoor geranium culture  Wait to plant geraniums outdoors until frost danger has passed and the soil temperature reaches 60°F. Choose a site with lots of sunlight, ideally eight hours or better. With less sun, the plants will bloom sparsely. Soil should be open and porous to allow for good water drainage, oxygen penetration, and healthy root growth. A heavy soil will benefit from the incorporation of several inches of peat, compost, or perlite before planting geraniums. Do not use manure or vermiculite. Sandy soil will also be measurably improved by the addition of organic matter.  Geraniums will not bloom well if they are overfertilized. Two pounds of 10-10-10 dry fertilizer or 4 pounds of 5-10-5 dry fertilizer for 100 square feet can be incorporated into the soil at planting. A half-rate application of this dry fertilizer can be spread at mid-season in July. Water these dry fertilizers into the soil. An alternate fertilizer scheme is to use 2 level teaspoons of water-soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, applied every three weeks. Use either dry or water-soluble fertilizer methods, but don't use both or you will overfeed the plants.  When you plant, make an irrigation furrow or dike around the plants to serve as a reservoir for summer watering.
      Water geraniums thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry between waterings to avoid root rot. Do not allow the plants to wilt, however. Cycles of wilting, followed by a heavy watering, cause leaf drop and result in poor growth.
       Remove faded flowers and dry leaves from the plants. These attract Botrytis fungus which attacks leaves and young buds.   Protective fungicide sprays may be necessary during periods of cool, moist weather. Check your garden center for products labeled for use on geraniums. Fortunately, insects are generally not a problem.
       Geraniums are attractive in outdoor planters and tubs. The soil in these containers becomes warm from the sun, so it's important to water regularly. Planters and tubs must have drain holes so moisture won't be trapped in the bottom, causing roots to rot. Hanging baskets with trailing geraniums are also attractive, provided they are kept in a sunny location, out of damaging wind.  If you have a bright location indoors, you can bring your geraniums inside and keep them growing as houseplants until it's warm enough to put them out the following spring.
       The practice of storing geraniums in the basement over the winter works better with cold, damp basements than it does with dry, warmer, modern basements. Minnesota has only about 130 frost-free days, and half the summer could go by waiting for poorly overwintered plants to bloom again.  Interesting about over wintering geraniums in Minn. which would be true in Iowa?  Shorter blooming dates...
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa