God's Garden Gifts-"Cool as a cucumber"

               In looking around my flowers, I decided to share with you some of my containers that have done well this year.  These are all in the shade which gets morning sun till noon and then the house shades the pots for the rest of the day.  Begonias is what you are thinking and yes that is what I planted. 
      Big Leaf Red Begonia with bronze leaf- it's the quickest-blooming, largest, most vigorous Begonia the world has ever seen. And this splendid color (a fire-engine bright crimson-red) combines wonderfully with the large, elegant bronze foliage. If it's time to update the Begonia basket, let BIG™ lead the way!  These color-drenched oval 2 1/2-inch flowers appear in great clusters, while the bronze foliage is glossy and oversized, with nicely pointed tips. BIG™ Red reaches about 20 inches high and blooms all summer in sun or shade. What a change from fussy older varieties!  Perfect for mass landscaping, bedding, edging, or containers, the BIG™ Begonias germinate very easily and are self-cleaning throughout their long, lovely summer season. Released exactly 100 years after the first-ever Begonia hybrid, BIG™ is a giant leap forward.  This pot is part of my series of containers called " God's Garden Gifts"  which are plants and have a recipe with them.  This God's Garden Gift is called " Cool as a Cucumber"  You will have to have a look next year at the recipe why it is called this.
    The second pictures is of Gryphon Begonias. Plants that were once considered denizens of indoor windowsills are making a break and heading outside. A wide range of tender perennials are shedding their houseplant image and are being offered at garden stores for use as annuals in the outdoor garden.  A great choice for adding color and texture to beds or containers in shade to part shade is the new hybrid begonia 'Gryphon'. Named after a mythical creature with the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle, Begonia x hybrid 'Gryphon' is both eye-catching and durable. Its large, maple-like leaves are deep green splashed with silver and hints of purple. It's similar to a rex begonia, but more tolerant of dry soil and easier to grow.  This fast grower will eventually reach 10-24 inches tall and wide. While it can be planted out directly in the garden, it makes an especially dramatic statement in a container, either as a solo show or combined with other shade lovers. Imagine it combined with the bold colors of coleus or a silvery waterfall of 'Silver Falls' dichondra. And you can double your pleasure by bringing in your container before frost and returning it to an indoor windowsill for the winter.
     I know you here in Iowa, this is the end of our season but put either or both on your list for next year as they are easy, grow well, and still have color when it is the end of summer.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty, Iowa

Gryphon Begonias

Here is a picture of it, and more information than I gave you this spring.

            This is what I can't believe August 30th....where did spring and summer go?  Today I am going to talk about a plant that came up that is a great one for summer and fall blooming here in Iowa.  If you are interested put on your list to try for next year.  I have sold many of them this year, and will get more for next year.  The variety I grew you will realize why I first got it because of the name.  I am talking about passion plant, and the variety I had was the Becky's Passion Plant.  I can't take any credit for it just that we share the same name.   One of the ways the flower is remembered is calling it a Christ's Resurrection plant because the leaves resemble the spear that pierced our savior's side; the tendrils, - the cords that bound his hands, or the whips that scourged him; the ten petals, - the apostles; Judas having betrayed, and Peter deserted; the pillars in the center, - the cross or tree; the stamina, - the hammer, the styles the nails; the inner circle around the central pillar, - the crown of thorns; the radiance, - the glory; the white in the flower - the emblem of puriety; and the blue, - the type of heaven. One species, the Passiflora alata even drops of blood are seen upon the cross or tre-. This flower continues three days open and then disappears, thus denoting the resurrection.
 Here is what I found out about the passion plant.  
Taken from http://gardening.about.com/od/shrubsvines/a/Passion-Flower.htm?utm_content=7440438&utm_medium=email&utm_source=cn_nl&utm_campaign=gardening&utm _term=
         Passion flowers are exotic looking tropical plants that can actually be grown in much milder areas. There are many different passion flower plants and there is considerable variety between the species. Some passion flowers are vines, some produce edible fruits. Passion flowers look extremely exotic, so it’s a surprise to find them growing in fields along the sides of the road. If you'd like to give them a try, here are some tips for growing your own passion flowers at home.
Overview and Description:  The genus Passiflora contains over 400 species, so the common name Passion Flower can be a bit confusing. To muddle matters further, most are vines, but some are shrubs, annuals, perennials and even trees. What they all share are exotic flowers that only remain open for about 1 day. They have a wide, flat petal base with several rings of filaments in the center which surround a stalk of sorts, that holds up the ovary and stamens.  Flowers: 5 or 10 petals in a flat or reflex circle. The ovary and stamens are held atop a tall, distinctive stalk which is encircled by delicate filaments. The stigmas start out high above the anthers and slowly bend backwards to come closer for pollination. Colors include: blue, purple, pink, white and red.
Foliage: The most commonly grown forms are vines that climb and cling by tendrils. The leaves are alternate and either lobed or ovate.  Botanical Name:  Passiflora  Common Name(s):  Passion Flower, Passion Vine, Maypop, Granadilla USDA Hardiness Zones: 6 - 10, depending on species.  Mature Size:  Varies with the type of passion flower you are growing. Most are vines: 15-30' (4.5 - 9 m) x 6-8 ft. (2-2.5 m)
Exposure:  Full Sun to Partial Shade  Bloom Period:  Most passion flowers grown in gardens will repeat bloom from mid- to late summer.  Design Tips:  Although passion flowers are native in many regions of the Southern U.S., they can become a nuisance, to the point of being invasive. Check with your local Cooperative Extension or DEC to see if you should avoid passion flowers altogether or if certain species are preferable.   A lot of gardeners prefer to grow their passion flowers in containers. Passion flower grows quite happily in a pot and you have the convenience of being able to move it to a sunnier site or even bring it indoors for the winter. Plus, it limits the spreading by rhizomes.
Sun: Passion flowers need at least 4 full hours of sunlight a day; more in cooler climates and some partial shade in the hottest areas. Plants may need winter protection in Zone 6. In zones cooler than zone 6, they will be winter-killed.  Soil: The soil should be well-draining, but rich. Passion flowers grow and bloom best when the soil is kept moist. They don’t handle drought well. Soil pH can be in the neutral range, anywhere from about 6.1 to 7.5.  Planting: The addition of compost to the planting hole will help retain moisture. Some type of support is needed for the vines to grow on. It can be a trellis, a structure or even another plant.  Most varieties of passion flower can be purchased as plants.  So give this plant some thought for next year.  I promise you that time will be here before we know it.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa

Here is my work for the next couple of days....love to can and process.

     So this question comes from me, and I learned something when I goggled it.  Harvesting tomatoes getting them to turn red.  I learned about them with temperatures above 85 degrees. Here is a picture of what I picked at our friend's garden that plants tomatoes for both of us to use. 
Ripening and Harvesting Tomatoes  TAKEN FROM http://garden.org/learn/articles/view/374/
One of the great joys of gardening is reaching for the first red-ripe tomato on the vine and biting into it. There's a flavor, juiciness and pleasure you'll never find in a supermarket tomato. Because tomatoes ripen from the inside out, when the outer skin is firm and red, you know you've got a beautiful ripe one.

Getting Them to Turn Red
The red color of tomatoes won't form when temperatures are above 86oF. So, if you live where the summers get quite hot, leaving tomatoes on the vine may give them a yellowish orange look. It's probably better to pick them in the pink stage and let them ripen indoors in cooler temperatures.

Tomatoes need warmth, not light, to ripen, so there's no need to put them on a sunny windowsill. Place them out of direct sunlight -- even in a dark cupboard -- where the temperature is 65 to 70F. Short but till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa

        Sorry I didn't post for a few days.  With the late summer we are having gardening tips are fewer and fewer to share.  But here I will share under request a recipe our son uses for pasta sauce, homemade and canned.  Here is the recipe follow other recipes for processing it wither you use pints, or quarts.  As you can see it is ://www.pinterest.com/pin/473511348305292899/ and Mom on Timeout
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Canning your own homemade pasta sauce is easier than you might think! This recipe is so delicious and takes advantage of all the fresh…
Homemade pasta Sauce, makes 6 pints
Produce
2 tbsp Basil, fresh
2 Bay leaves
5 cloves Garlic
2 Onions, med
2 tbsp Oregano, dried
1 tsp Parsley, dried
1 Red bell pepper
15 lbs Tomatoes
Canned Goods
1 small can Tomato paste
Condiments
1/4 cup Lemon juice
1 dash Worcestershire sauce
Baking & Spices
1/2 tsp Black pepper
1/2 tsp Red pepper flakes
1 tsp Salt
1 tbsp Sugar
Oils & Vinegars
1 tbsp Vegetable oil
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

          I had a question about broccoli.  A gardener friend brought me some broccoli yesterday and it was so strong I wanted why this time of year and not in the spring.  This is what I found out. 
      Heating cabbages and their friends has two different effects. Initially the temperature rise...speeds the enzyme activity and flavor generation, with maximum activity around 140F/60C. The enzymes stop working altogether somewhere short of the boiling point. If the enzymes are quickly inactivated by plunging the vegetables into abundant boiling water, then many of the flavor precursor molecules will be left intact. ... If the cooking period is prolonged, then the constant heat gradually transforms the flavor molecules. Eventually the sulfur compounds end up forming trisulfides, which accumulate and are mainly responsible for the strong and lingering smell of overcooked cabbage.
      So as suggested by others, boiling instead of steaming to reduce cooking time helps. So does cooling quickly, with cold or ice water. Boiling in excess water will also leach some out, but you might also lose flavor you like.  A couple other thoughts, also from On Food and Cooking. Cabbage family vegetables grown in the summer, and under drought stress, (it isn't under drought conditions, but I am wondering grown in the summer with the amount of heat we had) produce more of the flavor precursors, and those grown in the autumn and winter with less light and more water have less. They're also more concentrated in the core of the vegetables. And for cabbage, you can remove a lot of them by chopping and soaking in cold water; conceivably the same could work for broccoli, but again perhaps at the cost of desirable flavor.  I am going to freeze the broccoli as that is blanch into hot water, then cooled down see if that helps.  I will put into a freezer bag and then into a plastic container when I freeze it so the smell doesn't get into the food into the freezer.
      Another article I found when I was researching making an homemade peach pie is from King Arthur Flour.  I love the clear jel for thickening so have that on hand will try it in the pie.  So wanted to share with you about making fruit pies.  There is a generation that loves homemade pies and Larry's dad is part of that generation. 
taken from http://www.kingarthurflour.com/guides/pie-baking/pie-thickener    
      I found this great article about making fruit pies and what to use as thickener.  I have found the product Instant clear Jel just an awesome product for pies and canning.  I found it on Amazon but in larger areas you might be able to get it in a grocery store or health store.  Let me know if you tried it and see what you think. 
Your guide to perfectly thickened fruit filling
Your goal: fruit pie filling that's firm enough to hold its shape, yet soft enough to yield easily to a fork. The following thickeners are listed in order from least inherent thickening power ("gel strength") to greatest.

• All-purpose flour produces a somewhat cloudy filling; you'll use more of it than you would higher-starch thickeners. Learn more
• Quick-cooking tapioca makes filling bright and clear, but also gives it a stippled (and for some, "gluey") texture. Filling mixed with tapioca needs to rest 15 to 30 minutes before baking, for the tapioca to soften.
• Instant ClearJel keeps fillings thick through a great range of temperatures, making it ideal for pies that are frozen, before or after baking. Learn more
• Pie Filling Enhancer thickens fruit pie fillings the same way Instant ClearJel does. Its advantage is added ascorbic acid (a flavor enhancer), and superfine sugar, which prevents it from clumping. Pie Filling Enhancer is about half sugar; so you'll want to reduce the sugar in your recipe as directed below. Learn more
• Cornstarch has thickening power similar to that of Instant ClearJel. Like flour, it lends a cloudy, semi-transparent look to filling. It can also give filling a chalky or floury taste. For full effectiveness, make sure the pie filling is bubbling up through the crust before removing your pie from the oven.

For best results, premix
When making fruit filling, start by mixing the thickener with the sugar and spices in the recipe. Not only does this ensure the thickener reaches every part of the filling, it prevents it from clumping when it hits the fruit's juices.
Wait before you judge
Fruit filling thickens as it cools, so don't judge your pie hot out of the oven: wait until it's cooled to room temperature.

Thickeners for fruit pies

Fruit
Thickener
For 1 Cup of Fruit
For 8 Cups of Fruit
Apples

Need the least amount of thickener, since they're less juicy. They're also high in natural pectin; pectin helps filling thicken.
All-purpose flour
1 3/4 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tsp

Instant ClearJel
1/2 tsp
1 tbsp + 1 tsp

Cornstarch
1/2 tsp
1 tbsp + 1 tsp

Quick-cooking tapioca
3/4 tsp
2 tbsp

Pie Filling Enhancer
1 1/2 tsp
Reduce sugar by 3/4 tsp
1/4 cup
Reduce sugar by 2 tbsp

Blackberries & Raspberries

Are very juicy, and release even more liquid if they've been frozen; they need more thickener than apples.
All-purpose flour
1 tbsp + 1 tsp
1/2 cup + 2 tbsp + 1 tsp

Instant ClearJel
2 3/4 tsp
1/4 cup + 3 tbsp + 1 tsp

Cornstarch
1 tbsp
1/2 cup

Quick-cooking tapioca
1 tbsp
1/2 cup

Pie Filling Enhancer
1 tbsp + 2 tsp
Reduce sugar by 2 1/2 tsp
3/4 cup + 2 tsp
Reduce sugar by 6 tbsp + 1 tsp

Blueberries

These have a lot of pectin; they'll need a little less thickener than other berries.
All-purpose flour
1 tbsp
1/2 cup

Instant ClearJel
2 tsp
1/3 cup

Cornstarch
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Quick-cooking tapioca
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Pie Filling Enhancer
1 tbsp + 1 tsp
Reduce sugar by 2 tsp
1/3 cup
Reduce sugar by 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Cherries

Fresh cherries will need slightly less thickener than canned or frozen.
 All-purpose flour
1 tbsp
1/2 cup

Instant ClearJel
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Cornstarch
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Quick-cooking tapioca
1 1/4 tsp
3 tbsp + 1 tsp

Pie Filling Enhancer
1 tbsp + 1/2 tsp
Reduce sugar by 2 tsp
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp + 1 tsp
Reduce sugar by 1/4 cup + 2 tsp

Peaches, stone fruits

Don't have quite as much pectin as apples; they're also juicier, so will require more thickener.
 All-purpose flour
2 1/2 tsp
6 tbsp + 2 tsp

Instant ClearJel
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Cornstarch
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Quick-cooking tapioca
1 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup

Pie Filling Enhancer
1 tbsp + 2 tsp
Reduce sugar by 2 1/2 tsp
3/4 cup + 1 tbsp + 1 tsp
Reduce sugar by 6 tbsp + 2 tsp

Strawberry/rhubarb

The juiciest fruit with the least amount of pectin; these will require the most thickener.
 All-purpose flour
1 tbsp + 1 1/2 tsp
3/4 cup

Instant ClearJel
2 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup + 2 tbsp + 2 tsp

Cornstarch
1 tbsp + 1/4 tsp
1/2 cup + 2 tsp

Quick-cooking tapioca
1 1/2 tsp
1/4 cup

Pie Filling Enhancer
2 tbsp
Reduce sugar by 1 tbsp
1 cup
Reduce sugar by 1/2 cup

Tips

• Lattice-top fruit pies need less thickener, as more moisture evaporates from open-top pies as they bake. When baking a lattice- or open-top pie, reduce thickener by 1/4 teaspoon per cup of filling (1/2 teaspoon per cup for Pie Filling Enhancer).
• Pies require longer baking than you think. The pie may be golden brown and the fruit bubbling, but chances are it still needs another 5 to 10 minutes to fully activate the thickener. This is especially true if flour or cornstarch are used.
• With the exception of filling made with flour or cornstarch, fruit filling will continue to thicken for 24 hours after baking. Instant ClearJel will make filling about 15% thicker from day 1 to day 2; quick-cooking tapioca and Pie Filling Enhancer, about 30% thicker.
• Frozen fruit releases more juice than fresh. When baking pie with frozen fruit or berries, increase the thickener by 1/4 teaspoon per cup of fruit or berries. Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

 

Here are some examples that I made up for the Franklin Co. Fair.  I am using 2 popular items now, succulents and recyclable items think outside of the box.  These would grow nicely inside so give them a try.   

            Question yesterday about over wintering succulents.  I would take them inside during the winter, putting them in a sunny window.  But they will go dominant, so watch the amount of watering.  Easy plants to winter over, so give it a try.  You don't need a greenhouse to keep them over the winter here in IOWA.  Here is what I found about succulents and a good article about taking care of them.  Hope it gives you some helpful hints.
       By Jon VanZile  Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.  Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.  As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
Light: Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature: Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF. Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70ºF and about 85ºF and nighttime temperatures between 50ºF and 55ºF.
Water: Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering.

• Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
• Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.

Potting Soils:Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer: During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Top fertilizing entirely during the winter.
taken from http://houseplants.about.com/od/growinghealthyhouseplants/a/SucculentsBasic.htm
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

In this pot of succulents, we need to add more dirt.  Have the dirt up to the rim of the container, because now the water can set in it too long.

This might be harder to see, but I pulled out the plants and added more soil so it is up to the rim. The water will slide around the plant and out of the container.

         I worked with succulents today, so thought I would share with you some pictures and one helpful hint or maybe two.  When planting in a container, have the dirt up to the rim after you have the succulent planted.  Also they like full sun, and watch the rain if you don't have drainage holes they will need to be tipped over to let some of the water out.  These that I planted for the Franklin Co Fair, have pea rock in the bottom, but I had them staged when I got home under the trees and we have had lots of rain, so they were really wet.  I have now for the winter months unplanted them and put them in a big tray to grow in the greenhouse.  Next spring, I will take them out and plant in the containers again.  For me, just easier to take care of one big tray then lots of little planters.  These are the first set of pictures. 

             The second set of pictures is 2 containers of succulents that this is the 3rd year for them.  They look awesome, full and grow very nicely.  They are just a grower's demo to show what you can do with the plants called succulents.  They will go into the heated greenhouse for the winter.  Winter months with the less amount of sunlight, they will go dominant  so will not need as much water.  When the spring time comes around, longer days, then the watering will be done when I water all the rest of the plants.

             The third set of pictures is of the succulents I have on the racks for sale.  They look really good.  They are full, green and really growing.  I have good luck keeping them over in the greenhouse, but if you want to come and pick some up to grow for your gardens, I am here Monday thru Friday from 9-6. 
     Pictures are I am going to use today worth a thousand words, but tomorrow I will talk more about succulents and the care of them that I have found on the internet.  One article just written on the 19th of August 2016 will be what I share.    Thanks for looking at this website yesterday and part of today I have had many look at it....I will keep it up because you are looking and reading it.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

           The third mistake we can make in gardening is too much mulch, according to this author thru gardening.about.com.   Mulch does many wonderful things in the garden, but once again, it can be too much of a good thing. Two - 4 inches of mulch will keep the soil cool, conserve moisture and help suppress weeds. More than that and you’re asking for trouble.  Too much mulch can prevent water and air from getting to the soil. Water tends to drain off before it reaches the soil surface, let alone the plant roots and as I mentioned above, roots need air, too. A heavy layer of mulch blocks air flow and can also compact the soil.
      This is a common mistake that I notice around trees.  Mounding mulch too close to a plant’s stem or a tree’s trunk is another common mistake. This is a common practice of public landscapers. It even has a name - mulch volcanos. Besides leading to the two problems listed above, mulch volcanos offer safe harbor to insects and they hold moisture next to the stem or trunk, with can lead to rotting or fungal diseases. Always keep mulch an inch or more away from the actual plant.
       Death by mulch is usually a slower process than over watering, but if you think you’re doing everything else right and your plants still aren’t happy, check your mulch depth. Rake it out and make sure water is able to sink through and get where it needs to go. Every plant is different. Every garden is different. The best way to care for your plants is to keep a close eye on them and catch problems early. Luckily that just means walking or working in your garden regularly, something we already do.
Taken from  http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenproblems/fl/How-to-Kill-Your-Plants.htm?utm_content=7337008&utm_medium=email&utm_source=cn_nl&utm_campaign=gardening&utm_term=
Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

           So here we are at the end of summer gardening, but here is the 2nd most common mistake we make with gardening according to this author from gardening about.com.
    Can you fertilizer too much?  The old adage that if a little is good a lot must be better is rarely the case and fertilizing plants is no exception. There are some plants known as heavy feeders, but no plant needs to be feed every time you water. Excessive fertilizer effects plants in a couple of ways.  If you are using a synthetic fertilizer, the salts can build up in the soil and burn the roots. This is especially true of potted plants. Make sure you water all your plants well enough to disperse the water and food and allow water to drain out of the drainage holes in your containers, to avoid salt built up.  Too much fertilizer, especially food high in nitrogen (the first number on the package), can promote a lot of tender, leafy growth. That may sound like a good idea, but being forced into unnatural growth can stress a plant. Stressed plants, like stressed people, are more susceptible to disease. In addition, stressed plants are very attractive to insect pests. They love tender succulent growth.  Don’t forget, most plants need a period of dormancy. Winter takes care of that for us outdoors, but indoor plants need to rest during the off season, too. Don’t feed them until you start to see signs of new growth in the spring and cut back a little on watering, too.
Taken from  http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenproblems/fl/How-to-Kill-Your-Plants.htm?utm_content=7337008&utm_medium=email&utm_source=cn_nl&utm_campaign=gardening&utm_term=  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty, Iowa