image form tenax.net this is trellis netting, that the plants will grow up through it and keep a straight stem.  

How to grow the False Queen's Anne Lace.  What is trellis netting?  

​Friday afternoon. Cloudy, and even a little moisture.  We had rain early morning, and this morning.  69F(20C) which is mild and so much better than 90F.  Looks like raining more, and then the temperature tomorrow and next week looks cooler.  We are on the north side of the heat dome which is in Missouri and south in Texas.  I am sorry for all that heat.   Stay dry, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Saturday will be having this.  Evelyn wrote,” junior soccer and footy over the weekend, which also makes the weekend fly by.”  Partly cloudy sky with a high of 59F(15C)  Enjoy your Saturday. 
 
I found an article on how to grow Ammi which is False Queen Anne’s Lace.  Interesting  on how to grow. 
How to Grow: Ammi (False Queen Anne's Lace)
One of the biggest “newbie” flower gardening mistakes I see is not growing enough “filler” type flowers for bouquets.
 
I know, I know… it’s easy to get starry eyed over all those big blooming “focal” flowers, like Sunflowers, Zinnias and Dahlias… but a bouquet made with only big focal flowers can easily look a tad gaudy and overpowering.
In order to have well balanced bouquets and arrangements with visual interest, it’s important to grow some flowers whose soul purpose is to complement and enhance the focal flowers.
Ammi (False Queen Anne’s Lace) does this beautifully. It looks great with almost any type of flower and adds some much needed volume, texture and whimsy.
You may have noticed the wild Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota) growing in meadows and roadsides. Another name for this plant is Wild Carrot, and yes, if you pull up the root, you’ll see and smell that it is indeed a white carrot!
For floral use, though, most people prefer to grow the more sophisticated and cultivated varieties of Ammi, which are related to wild Queen Anne’s Lace.
Let’s look at the Pros and Cons of growing Ammi for cut flower use.
PROS
They are fairly easy to grow.
They are versatile in bouquets and arrangements.
They attract pollinators.
They will reseed themselves, if you allow them to.
CONS
They are not the longest blooming flower. You’ll need to plant them a few times over the spring/summer to have a continual harvest.
They should be netted to keep them from falling over.
They have irritating sap that can cause contact dermatitis when harvested on a sunny day (more about this later!). 
There are 3 main categories of Ammi that are used for floral work.
1. Ammi majus: This type most closely resembles wild Queen Anne’s Lace - light, airy and delicate. On our farm, this type does best in the spring/early summer.
2. Ammi visnaga: This type is much more robust and fuller than Ammi majus. It also tends to be more green than white. This type is sturdy and adds lots of structure to bouquets. Unfortunately, it also has a distinct smell that some people don’t like. On our farm, this type blooms well even in the heat of summer and into fall.
3. Dara/Daucus carota: Technically not “Ammi”, you’ll often find this in seed catalogs under the Ammi category. This type is a unique variety of wild carrot. The blooms come in a range of pink, purple and white. I’ve seen all sorts of names for this flower (no one seems to know exactly what to call it!), so search for “Dara”, “Ammi dara”, “Daucus”, “Daucus carota”, “False Queen Anne’s Lace”, “Chocolate Queen Anne’s Lace”, “Ornamental Carrot”, “Chocolate Flower”  and even “Chocolate Lace Flower”!
Here are a few of my favorite Ammi to grow for cut flower use:
“White Dill” (Ammi majus)
“Graceland” (Ammi majus)
“Green Mist” (Ammi visnaga)
“Dara” (Daucus carota)
HOW TO SOW
Ammi generally prefers cooler weather and really shines in the spring/early summer. While it can handle warm days, it wants cool nights. 
The plants are quite cold hardy and can handle some frost.
If you live in a warm climate, sow the seeds in the fall and they will take off early next spring. If you live in a cold climate, sow the seeds as early as you can in the spring (when the soil has thawed).
Transplants or Direct Sow?
Ammi can be transplanted or direct sown.
Transplants should be sown indoors 4-6 weeks before you plant them out. Keep the seeds in the fridge or freezer for 2 weeks before sowing (this mimics winter weather).
Remember, they want cold nights, so if you are using heat mats for your seedlings, be sure to turn off the heat at night or remove the tray at night. They can be transplanted out BEFORE the threat of frost is over, since they are cold hardy.
If you don’t want to mess around with moving trays every day (I don’t!!!), then simply direct sow when you want them to grow as early in the spring as possible.
Ammi prefers to be direct sown, so this method is the simplest and easiest. You might as well save yourself some time and growing space, and simply direct sow the seeds!
PLANT SPACING
Ammi can be grown at 3-12” spacing… so if you direct sowed and your plants are crowded, don’t fret.
I find Dara needs the least amount of spacing (grows very upright), Ammi majus needs about 6-9” spacing, and Ammi vignaga does better at 12” spacing (widely branching plants).
Netting is helpful, as plants will grow 36” or more. We use Hortonova trellis netting stretched tight over the bed with stakes.
Yup. It’s a real pain harvesting those stems in the netting… But it’s better than having the plants falling over! Hint: Pull the stem down through the netting, not up.
Update: Recently, we switched to using “cattle panel support” pictured below for growing Ammi and Dara… and it is a GAME CHANGER. You can learn how we make the “cattle panel supports” in this blog post.
GROWING ON
Ammi is not a particularly long lasting flower in the field. Don’t expect it to bloom all summer long. 
In order to harvest Ammi longer, I like to plant 2 successions of Ammi majus (spring/early summer blooming) 2-3 weeks apart, followed by 2 successions of Ammi visnaga (summer/fall blooming) 2-3 weeks apart.
Dara seems to do better as a spring/early summer blooming plant, but occasionally I can get some to bloom into the fall.
STAGE OF HARVEST
Recognizing the correct stage of harvest for Ammi can be a little tricky.
Harvest too early, and they will droop over and never recover.
It’s better to err on the side of too mature than too early. Fortunately, even if you harvest them too mature, they still look beautiful with their seed pods.
Take a look at the bloom. If it is flat or concave (sides higher than center), it is not ready.
If the bloom is domed or convex (sides lower than center), then it’s ready!
20190801_135100.jpg
When you cut a stem of Ammi, sap will come out of the cut end. Do NOT allow this sap to come into contact with your skin, especially on a sunny day. Ammi can cause contact dermatitis on some people, called Phytophotodermatitis, a reaction caused by contact with a plant sap/substance that reacts to sunlight.
When the sap gets on your skin and is exposed to the sun, it can cause burns and blisters. While usually not painful, it can cause scarring that lasts for months. Usually, I wear long pants, long sleeves and gloves when harvesting (AND harvest it before sunrise or after sunset), but on this one day, we had to harvest it 9am and it was 90+ degrees. I learned a hard lesson to always wear long pants/sleeves, even when it’s suffocating (and this is exactly why farm workers wear long pants/sleeves when harvesting carrots, celery and other plants).
The blisters were not painful, but I had scars/dark patches on my legs/forearms for about 3 months.
POST HARVEST CARE
Immediately upon harvest, allow the Ammi to rest in a bucket of water in a cool, dark place.
After resting overnight, stems should be ready for arranging!
Taken from https://www.threeacrefarm.net/blog/2020/1/17/how-to-grow-ammi-false-queen-annes-lace
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from tenax.net

image from mygardenlife.com 

What is False Queen's Anne Lace?  

Good afternoon.  I started this posting this morning but there were lots of interruptions.  Now back to it.  It is cloudy outside, which helps with the level of heat.  Temperature still is 80f(2C). Early tomorrow morning it will rain and suppose to rain all day.  One inch of rain is predicted which we need with the extreme heat we have been having.  Cold front moving in, so might be some severe weather with that.  See what happens but the temperature is to be 69F(20C).  That will seem cold won’t it.  Stay cool today, stay dry tomorrow and be safe.
 
Australia family and friends for July 31, Friday will have high of 57F(14C) and chance of rain too.  Stay warm, stay dry, and stay safe.
 
One of the postings I talked about plants to use in floral arrangements, and False Queen’s Anne Lace was mentioned.  One of the gardeners asked what that was, and I had to research it to find out.  Tomorrow I will post on how to grow it if you want it for those floral arrangements.
It may not be a true “royal”, but there’s no denying this flower’s regal appeal. Coveted by designers for its delicate and airy, lace-like looks, Ammi comprises a group of herbaceous perennials (or sometimes biennials) that are oftentimes mistaken for their more “royal” cousin (Daucus carota, or Queen Anne’s Lace). Since their flowers look almost identical, Ammi is commonly referred to as false Queen Anne’s Lace, but there’s nothing false about this plant’s beauty and inviting charm.
Endemic to Egypt’s Nile River Valley, the Mediterranean and Southwest Asia, the Ammi genus includes about seven species of flowering herbs that are members of the Apiaceae (carrot) family. Most cultivars used by designers today are derived from Ammi majus, whose origins trace back to around 2,000 B.C. Historically, Ammi has been used by ancient Egyptian caravan travelers who used the plants as a natural bronzer of sorts. Its roots contain 8-methoxypsoralen, a compound with pigment producing properties. By chewing on these roots, travelers had an easy and inexpensive source of protection against the sun’s harsh UV rays.
Today, Ammi is distinguished mostly by its commercial uses, specifically as a cut flower and garden ornamental. The two most popular species cultivated for the cut flower trade are A. majus and A. visnaga. These wildflower-like plants feature multi-branched stems that grow between 90–120 cm in height and are topped with large, dome-shaped umbels. These umbels (between 7–15 cm in diameter) are densely packed with small, pure white (or sometimes green) flowers that mimic lace from a distance. (Hence the common names lace flower and white lace flower.) These blossoms may sometimes produce a faint, yet unpleasant scent. On the other hand, its attractive, feathery foliage contributes to the plant’s overall airy look, making it an excellent filler flower for garden-style arrangements and wedding designs.
As we mentioned earlier, Ammi is oftentimes mistaken for the real Queen Anne’s Lace, or Daucus carota. It makes sense, too, since their flowers are almost mirror copies of one other. They are also members of the same carrot family. However, one can tell these “cousins” apart by their coloration. Ammi flowers are pure white and they don’t feature the dark central dot seen on Queen Anne’s lace flowers. Ammi is also more delicate and less weedy; in fact, many biennial species of Queen Anne’s lace have been listed as invasive by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Among contemporary designers, Ammi remains a coveted accent flower for its versatility and overt good looks. Like Gypsophila, it adds soft yet full volume to wedding bouquets and spring/summer arrangements. Its ethereal flowers also combine effortlessly with virtually all color palettes and arrange beautifully with large-headed flowers like roses, lilies and peonies. Ammi also makes a desirable garden plant; if added to a home garden, you will be rewarded with hoards of butterflies and other pollinating insects!
Special Care when you cut them
Select straight, sturdy stems that have umbels with a majority of their florets open. Any stems with under fifty percent of their florets open may have been harvested too early; these usually wilt faster because they do not take in water properly. Also avoid flowering stems that are shedding petals or pollen.
When processing, strip foliage that falls below the water line. Recut the stems about 2.5 cm at an angle (45-degrees) and hydrate them immediately in water mixed with a floral preservative (with sugar and a biocide) for at least two hours before storage or use in floral work. Although not required, stems can be recut under running water or in a bowl of clean water. Cutting under water may reduce the risk of air pockets forming at the stems’ base and allows the flowers to absorb water right away. Ammi flowers are ethylene sensitive, so keep them away from sources of the gas. Also, since it is easily susceptible to water stress, avoid using floral foam with Ammi stems, unless they are cut short.
Stems may be stored for a couple of days at 34–36ºF (1–2ºC) at 75–80% humidity, but this isn’t required.
Fun Facts:
The genus name comes from the Greek word “ammos” meaning sand. This likely references the plant’s origins in the Nile delta and the Meditteranean, where it thrives in warm and dry (or semi-dry) areas.
Ammi majus (false Queen Anne’s lace) is often confused with its cousin, (the true) Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota)—and with due reason...they look almost identical! Although they are part of the same family, these two species are very different. The most notable differentiating factor between the two are their colors; Ammi flowers are pure white and they don’t possess Queen Anne’s lace’s dark central dot. Ammi is also typically more delicate and less weedy; in fact, many biennial species of Queen Anne’s lace have been listed as invasive by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Of the six known species of the Ammi genus, the two species most cultivated for the cut flower trade are A. majus and A. visnaga. These are typically grown as annuals or biennials, and their leafy, flowering stems are used as cut flowers and garden ornamentals. The most widely known cultivar of A. majus is 'Green Mist', which as its name suggests, produces green flowers.
Ammi is a member of the Apiaceae (carrot) family, and its common relatives include fennel, parsley and dill. For this reason, its leaves sometimes give off a carrot-like scent when they are crushed.
Aside from its ornamental and medicinal uses, Ammi was also grown as a food source given its edible leaves. In India, it is commonly used as an aromatic spice, which is said to taste like thyme.
When in season, Ammi flowers are usually seen growing wildly in open fields and alongside roads, or cultivated as an ornamental in home gardens and greenhouses. Its plants serve as prime attractors of butterflies, bees and other pollinating insects.
In 2014, Ammi was awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the U.K.’s Royal Horticultural Society.
Ammi flowers are said to symbolize sanctuary and warmth.
Given its airy, lacelike appeal and long vase life, Ammi has become a popular filler used in both fresh and dried floral designs. It makes a fantastic substitute for Queen Anne’s lace flowers, and similar to Gypsophila, it adds softness, great texture and fullness to garden-style arrangements and bridal bouquets. Ammi flowers can also be air dried for up to three weeks in a dark, well-ventilated area.
Taken from https://www.flower.style/flowers-we-love/ammi-majus
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from mygardenlife.com

taken from carolinahoneybees.com 

Golden Rod good for bees, good as a cut flower and easy to grow.  It is a perennial.  The plant will be here next year for sure. 

Another warm day, the weatherman said cooler and it is in temperature down to 85F(30C) with it feeling like 90F(32C).  It is still hot out, blue sky with little wind.  I worked till 11 and I got warm working outside.  I am finally getting caught up with the watering as it isn’t so dry on the pots small and large.  Same on Thursday but a cold front coming through Friday morning which will be much needed rain, and cooler temperatures.  I am ready for these again cooler temperatures to work outside.  2 county fairs this week through the weekend.  Stay cool for sure.  Stay safe for the crews that are building homes, working outside on grain moving equipment, and road construction.  Our thoughts are with you all. 
 
Australia family and friends will have high of 56F(14C) rainy conditions and wind gusts up to 18 MPH making it feel like 37F(2C). This is for their Thursday July 30th.  Stay warm, stay dry, stay safe.
 
I didn’t get this perennial this season, but if I write about it, it will be in my mind to get some for next year.  I need to make little signs that you know what plants are good for the bees.  I know growing up, when Goldenrod was blooming in the ditches, my dad would say it affected his allergies.  But it isn’t goldenrod, but it the ragweed that gives us that sneezing and coughing. 

How to Grow Goldenrod: A Native Plant for Fall Color and Pollinators Written By:  Andy Wilcox
Native plants that provide color and habitat are in focus now, and goldenrod fits that bill perfectly. Whether in a modern meadow, as a patch in a perennial bed, or even in a container on the patio, goldenrod brings fall color and graceful feathery plumes to the landscape. And it’s great for our buzzing friends!
About Goldenrod
For many, this plant seems to need little introduction. We’ve blown past it growing in ditches on the highway, seen it popping up behind the shed, or vaguely appreciated its nodding yellow heads on tall stems as part of the pleasing earth tones of an early fall meadow. But many of us have never thought of growing goldenrod on purpose. Isn’t it just a weed?
Goldenrod is a large group of plants in the genus Solidago, although you’ll also see plants from Euthamia and Oligoneuron called goldenrods. Unless you’re a botanist, you likely won’t be able to tell the difference. Most goldenrods are tall and enjoy drier sites, but with over one hundred species, there are goldenrods to fit almost any soil type and location. They’re herbaceous perennials that tolerate poor sites and even clay soils as long as there’s some drainage.
Goldenrods sometimes get a reputation as spreaders, and some species sprawl out quite easily, reproducing from rhizomes. There are goldenrods with more fibrous root systems, sometimes called clumping goldenrods, which are better at staying put where you plant them, although they can spread by seed.
Goldenrod for Pollinators
Goldenrod blooms in late summer and carries flower heads well into fall. It’s native to North America and is a fantastic food source for many of our pollinators, especially as typical summer flowers begin to fade out and pollen becomes more scarce. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better all-purpose pollinator plant for your garden.
While a field full of goldenrods pleases the bees, our eyes may wish for a bit more variety. Fortunately, several other natives, such as asters, mountain mint, milkweeds, bee balm, and Joe-pye weed, are easy to combine with goldenrod plantings. Add native grasses like big bluestem and switchgrass for a native pollinator patch that will wave in the wind and be alive with activity.
Does Goldenrod Cause Allergies?
Goldenrod is not the yellow autumn native plant responsible for your allergies flaring up. Goldenrod pollen is heavier and sticky and doesn’t become airborne. The correct plant to assign your irritation to is ragweed, which disperses zillions of pollen grains that float across the wind and into your sinuses.
Planting
Goldenrods will put on their best showy colors if planted in full sun, but they’ll make do with only partial sunshine. Mostly, they prefer dry to medium moisture and acidic pH, but a few species readily grow in wetter meadow-like conditions. Shop around for the right cultivar and species for your location, as these perennials can be around for a while.
Goldenrod looks best in larger plantings. Use patches to bring out the color and allow it to take hold in a spot. It also looks perfect as a border plant along a fence mixed with other natives.
Is Goldenrod a Good Cut Flower?  Another reason to grow it.
Yes — goldenrod (Solidago spp.) is considered a good cut flower for late-summer and fall floral arrangements Harvest to Table. Its bright yellow, dense flower clusters are long-lasting in the vase, and the stems are sturdy enough to support blooms without wilting quickly.
Why It Works Well as a Cut Flower
Long vase life: Goldenrod flowers stay fresh for several days when cut and placed in water cdmra.org.
Sturdy stems: The upright, fibrous stems hold their shape well, making them suitable for both fresh and dried arrangements Harvest to Table.
Color and texture: The bright yellow plumes add vibrancy to floral designs, especially in late-season bouquets.
Low maintenance: Once cut, goldenrod doesn’t require heavy feeding or frequent watering, making it easy to maintain in a vase cdmra.org.
Best Practices for Cutting and Arranging
Cutting time: Harvest stems in the late morning when flowers are fully open but not fading. This ensures the best color and longevity scienceinsights.org.
Cutting technique: Use sharp shears to cut stems at a 45° angle to maximize water uptake.
Vase care: Change water every 2–3 days and trim stems slightly each time to extend life.
Arrangement tips: Pair goldenrod with complementary late-blooming flowers like asters, chrysanthemums, or ornamental grasses for a seasonal look Harvest to Table.
Goldenrod is also valued in gardens for its pollinator appeal, attracting bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. While it’s primarily grown for its ecological benefits, its cut flower qualities make it a versatile choice for both garden and floral design.
Bottom line: Goldenrod is a reliable, low-maintenance cut flower that adds color, structure, and longevity to floral arrangements, especially in late summer and fall.
Growing
Like many natives, goldenrod won’t need much attention from you. That’s one of the great reasons to plant them!
Deadheading isn’t required.
Goldenrods grown in the ground won’t need fertilizing, but those in containers will benefit from a monthly general-purpose fertilizer. Follow the directions on the label.
 Pests and Problems
Goldenrods don’t suffer many issues but may be slightly affected by powdery mildew.
Types
Showy goldenrod (Solidago speciosa) earns its name with larger flower heads atop strong dark stems. A later bloomer with a fibrous root system, this species is less likely to spread. It’s winter hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8 and reaches a mature height of about 3 to 4 feet.
Late goldenrod (S. gigantea) is a tall species, often reaching 6 feet. It tolerates wetter sites than other goldenrods and is hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8. This is an aggressive spreader, sending out rhizomes to conquer the landscape.
Sweet goldenrod (S. odora) is a modest plant, about 3 feet tall. It’s clump forming and won’t spread, and it’s perfect for smaller spots where it can be a showy splash of fall color.
Wit and Wisdom
The genus name Solidago comes from the Latin word solidus, which means to make whole, referring to the plant’s use as a medicinal plant.
According to Robin Sweetser, “Some Native American tribes used the fresh or dried flowers in tea to cure different ailments. Today, it’s often used as a medicinal herb to relieve colds, fevers, and the flu.”
After tossing all the tea in the harbor, Bostonians experimented with making tea out of goldenrod and other native berries and plants.
Goldenrods are deer-resistant, especially once they start to get tall and woody-stemmed.
Goldenrod is the state flower of Nebraska and Kentucky.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/goldenrod
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse
image taken from carolinahoneybees.com

Sad sunflowers

Happy Zinnias

image from positive bloom.com 

Sad sunflowers, along with Happy Zinnias.  Do you have dill growing in your garden?  

Still good morning. Whoops got interrupted before I sent this.  Good afternoon.  I have been outside all morning, watering and moving plants for my summer garden.  I like how it looks all ready and more to move and grow. I need to harvest all those lovely peppers in the 4” pots.  Some are blossoming again, and if I pick these see if they do too.  BUT they dry out quickly with such little dirt. If I am watering each day, it will be ok.  Temperature is down from yesterday to 76F(24C), less humidity and we have overcast sky.  So, working outside isn’t too bad.    I know you gardeners are watering, and watering more.  Containers, baskets and gardens will need lots of attention from all this hot, humid weather from Friday to Monday. Stay cool, stay safe, and drink. 
 
Australia family and friends
 Evelyn wrote this Monday morning, “Good morning. Today will be a mild sunny day, with rain coming sometime tonight. I plan to spend my time outside today. I can just imagine how suffocating the heat and humidity feels. Dad would say that is what makes the corn grow and mature.” 
Their weather for Wednesday will be same rain showers with a high of 54F(12C) Continue to stay dry, stay safe. 
 
I was sad when I saw this sunflower look so dry.  That was 24 hours without watering.  I watered and before I came home it looked more alert.  The plant will be deadheaded and clean up the old blossoms and that should be fine.  Hot, humid weather without rain is hard on us, and our plants.  It will be ok and look like it did at the fairgrounds.  Water makes miracles happen. 
 
I love dill, I love to smell it and have it cut inside the house for the aroma.  I know it is too late for you to plant, but for next spring here is what to do. 
 
Planting and Growing Dill Written By:  Catherine Boeckmann
With its delicate fronds, tangy flavor, and natural pest-repelling powers, dill is the herb that does it all. Whether you’re crafting crunchy pickles, tossing together a creamy potato salad, or looking to attract pollinators to your garden, this feathery favorite is a must-grow. Best of all? It lives up to its nickname “dill weed”—because it practically grows like one! Let’s dig into how to plant, grow, and harvest dill with ease.
Native to Eurasia and the Mediterranean, dill is most at home in warmer climates. It’s an annual herb, so to create a permanent patch of dill, allow some of the plants to flower and go to seed each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the next growing season.
Dill attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden and is a host plant for the caterpillar of the black swallowtail butterfly.
Planting
Where to Plant Dill
Dill plants grow best in full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight). Also, choose a location that is protected from strong winds, as dill’s tall foliage can be blown over easily.
Choose a planting site with well-draining soil rich in organic matter. The soil’s pH should ideally be between slightly acidic and neutral (6.5–7.0).
Plant dill near cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli, and other brassicas; dill is thought to improve their growth and protect them from pests. Keep it away from carrots, however, as it can decrease yields. Learn more about companion planting!
According to Jill MacKenzie and Shirley Mah Kooyman of the University of Minnesota Extension, “Growing dill indoors is possible, as long as you provide enough light.”
When to Plant Dill  
Here is one plant that you need to know what the soil temperature is when you plant them.  This May the soil temperature was cooler than this.  We must be weather wise when it comes to gardening.  NOT what we did in the years before.
Dill seeds should be sown directly into the garden (dill puts down a taproot, so, like carrots, it doesn’t transplant well) after the threat of frost has passed in the spring. For the best germination results, the soil temperature should be between 60° and 70ºF (15° and 21°C). Seedlings should appear in 10 to 14 days.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, sow dill seeds every few weeks until midsummer to ensure a constant supply into fall.
How to Plant Dill
Sow dill seeds about ¼ inch deep.
Seedlings should appear after 10 to 14 days. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 10 to 12 inches apart (if they aren’t already spaced well enough).
Harvesting
As soon as the plant has four to five leaves, you can start harvesting. Harvest older leaves first. Pinch off the leaves or cut them off with scissors.
If you have a lot of plants, you can take entire stalks.
Wit and Wisdom
For sweeter breath, chew dill seeds.
If you grow your own dill and cucumbers, you can make dill pickles!
Have you ever wondered, what exactly is a “kosher” dill pickle? Kosher is from a Hebrew word meaning “right,” “proper,” or “fit.” It is usually applied to food, especially to meat that has been slaughtered and prepared according to the prescribed manner. Kosher salt is not treated with additives and is as close to pure solar salt as you can get. If you taste a kosher dill pickle, you’ll know it has been prepared in the best possible way.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/dill
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  images from Becky's Greenhouse, positive bloom.com 

taken by Becky Litterer

How much to drink with this hot, humid weather!  What is that sweet smell coming out of the cornfield?  

WOW what can I say but it is hot and humid out.  It takes your breath away, and immediately you start to sweat.  90 F(32C) with heat index up to 108F(44C)  this is just DARN HOT.  I was outside at 7:30 watering and unloading trailer and pickup from Sunday’s Herb Fest in Greene. I made it till 9:30 AM and had to come in and cool off. I got done watering wagons at 11:30 and I will go back out after 6 to water the shrubs. It takes lots of water as all of you know.  I am sure you are watering your gardens and flowers. We had a very successful day at the Herb Festival.  We brought back about ¼ of what we took down.  This makes me smile.  All those plants in the gardeners’ garden and not in mine.  I still have 5 wagons with plants on them.  When it cools down some,  I will start cleaning up wagons.  I will plant some pots for me for my summer garden and the rest I will compost or I call it unplant.  Hope to do one wagon this week.  Cooling down supposes to be 80F(27C) tomorrow.  Hopefully the humidity will be down too.  That will seem more like it.    

Posting information about how much to drink if you are outside during this extreme heat. FOOD for thought, whoops drink for thought. 
How Much to Drink When the Heat Index Is Over 100
When the heat index is above 100°F, your body is working harder to cool itself, and you lose more fluids through sweating. You should increase your fluid intake significantly above normal recommendations to prevent dehydration, heat exhaustion, or heatstroke.
Core hydration targets
Pace: Drink about 8 ounces (1 cup) of water every 15–20 minutes while active in the heat
Hourly target: This adds up to roughly 32 ounces (1 quart, ~1 liter) per hour of exposure
Ceiling: Do not exceed 48 ounces (6 cups) per hour to avoid overhydration and electrolyte imbalance.
Daily baseline: On normal days, women need ~9 cups and men ~13 cups of fluids; in extreme heat, you may need 2–3 liters per hour if sweating heavily.
Extra water needs in extreme heat
At 40°C (104°F+), add 1,500–2,500 ml (about 5–8 cups) extra per day for moderate activity
Intense work or exercise can push sweat losses to 2–3 liters/hour — replace them immediately
Electrolyte replacement
For prolonged exposure (2+ hours), mix 1 part sports drink into 3 parts water to replenish sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium
Avoid caffeine and alcohol during heat exposure — both increase dehydration risk
Practical tips
Keep a reusable, insulated water bottle on hand and refill often.
Eat water-rich foods like watermelon, cucumber, and strawberries to boost hydration
Check your urine color: light yellow means adequate hydration; dark yellow means you need more fluid.
If you feel dizzy, have dark urine, or experience muscle cramps, stop activity and rehydrate immediately.
Bottom line: In heat above 100°F, aim for ~1 quart (32 oz) of water per hour while active, with electrolytes for long exposures, and never exceed 6 cups/hour. This proactive approach can prevent heat-related illness and keep you safe in extreme conditions
Field corn smells sweet at tasseling because the plant releases aromatic, sugar‑related volatile compounds during pollination, creating a noticeable sweet scent.
These volatiles come from the developing pollen, silks, and surrounding plant tissues, which contain natural sugars that contribute to the aroma.
Stay cool, stay safe and DRINK

Australia family and friends are having the opposite of this.  This is their winter and today they will have a high of 62F(16C) and low of 41F(5C).   They are having a sheep grazier warning severe weather because it is going to be raining every day this week, and it will create floods in the pastures with the sheep.  Sometimes, they don’t get the rain in Sale, but I am sure they will let me know.  Stay dry, stay safe. Stay warm. 
 
At the fair, we parked the wagon of plants out to Grandpa’s Farm.  We were next to the corn field, and I could smell something sweet.  Yes, it smelled sweet and it was coming from the corn.  It has been a long time since I was that close to a corn field to notice the sweetness in the air.  Remember this was the week of July 12th, 2 weeks ago.  I don’t know if the corn is still doing this.  Here is why.  Have you noticed? 
 
Although field corn is not harvested for sweetness, the plant still contains natural sugars early in development. As the corn enters the tasseling stage (when the tassel releases pollen), it emits volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These VOCs often have sweet or grassy aromatic profiles.  Sweetness in corn is tied to sugar content, which is highest before sugars convert to starch. Sweet corn is harvested at peak sugar levels, while field corn is left to mature and dry, converting most sugars into starch
Even so, during tasseling, field corn still produces sugar‑related volatiles that can smell sweet.  The sweet smell is therefore not an indicator of edible sweetness but a natural part of the plant’s reproductive phase, when aromatic compounds are released to support pollination and signal plant health.
This phenomenon reflects the same underlying chemistry that makes fresh corn smell sweeter before sugars convert to starch, as noted in discussions of corn sugar development and aroma.
 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from randylemmon.com 

image from Almanac.com 

Cut flower design gives you some ideas of what to plant.  

​WOW it has changed just like the weatherman predicted.  HOT and humid, it is only 81F(27C) which feels like 87F(31C) but the dew point is 74F(23C).  So that makes it feel uncomfortable. It was cloudy this morning so didn’t seem so bad, but now I don’t want to go out.  We need to load up the trailer for Herb Fest, and the grandsons are going to help.  Hopefully they come closer to late afternoon and then it isn’t going to be so warm.  I know tomorrow will be warm, hopefully gardeners will come and see what all the vendors have. I will be glad when this event is behind me, because I am getting ready to be done with the moving and loading and unloading of plants. See what happens tomorrow.  You stay cool, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends wrote “! The kids' sports are fun. Last night was cold watching Alfie's footy.”  As their temperature at night is 40F(4C) with their daytime in the 60F(15C) Stay warm, stay safe.  Interesting note one of them wrote about the peppers I posted. “, seeing your containers of sunflowers makes our dull day brighter. Your peppers (we call them capsicums) look very healthy, and they would be delicious pickled.”  I did notice that when I was there that the peppers were called “capsicums”.  Always nice to see and hear about different things from Australia. Hope you enjoy too.
 
I have noticed that cut flower bouquets as a business are popping up all over.  How fun is to get a bouquet of freshly grown flowers.  I know some of my gardeners would like to grow their own and cut flowers for themselves.  I will be looking for articles to help all of us with this.  My mother always had a bouquet of flowers in the house.  She loved to grow flowers and show them off. 
 
Raised-Bed Cut-Flower Garden Plan (Flower-Farm Style) Written By:  Susie Hughes
This Raised-Bed Cut-Flower Garden Plan creates a dedicated space just for cutting flowers, so your blooms won’t compete with vegetables or mixed garden borders. Think of it as a mini flower farm at home. Using three raised beds, this layout is designed to provide a steady supply of fresh flowers for bouquets and vases from spring through fall—perfect for your home, sharing with friends, or giving as gifts.
The Raised Bed Cut Flower Garden Layout
This plan packs a surprising amount of flower power into just three raised beds, producing enough blooms to keep fresh bouquets flowing from midsummer into fall. Keep in mind that this plan is specifically for annual cut flowers—flowers you replant each year—rather than perennials. Because this is a pure cutting garden, annuals are ideal for fast growth and repeat harvesting.
Raised beds warm faster in spring, improve drainage, and make harvesting easier. However, this layout can also be adapted for in-ground garden beds if needed.
Annual cutting flowers come in nearly endless colors, shapes, and sizes. Mix and match varieties to suit your color palette—pastels, brights, monochrome, or a lively mix. For more flowers that perform well in cutting gardens, see our guide to the best Flowers for a Cutting Garden.
The Plant List
Below is a sample plant list designed for this exact raised-bed cut-flower garden layout. Note: Under “quantity per bed,” we are listing the number of plants in the garden bed. However, when you plant the seeds, be sure to plant extra. We sow three seeds per plant to ensure at least one germinates. Then you will “thin” the seedlings, choosing the best of the bunch, to the plant spacing listed below.
 
Plant Name     Spacing            Quantity per Bed        Sow/Plant Outdoors    Bloom Season
Zinnia  9–12”  6          Mid-May         July–Frost
Cosmos            12–18” 16        Mid-May         July–Frost
Amaranthus    12–18” 6          Mid-May         July–Frost
Sunflowers      12–24” 4          Mid-May         July–September
False Queen Anne’s Lace        12–18” 6          Mid-Spring      June–Frost
Larkspur          6–12”  6          Early Spring     June–Frost
Snapdragon     6–12”  6          Early Spring     June–Frost
Cornflowers (Bachelor’s Buttons)       6–12”  16        Mid-Spring      June–Frost
Bells of Ireland            6–12”  4          Mid-Spring      July–Frost
Sweet Peas      3–6”    22        Early Spring     June–July
For detailed growing instructions, refer to the Flower Growing Guide Library.
How to Create Your Cutting Garden
Step 1: Preparing the Soil
Fill raised beds with 12–18 inches of rich, well-draining soil.
Mix in compost or aged manure to promote strong roots and abundant blooms.
Step 2: Timing Your Planting
Cool-season flowers (snapdragons, larkspur, sweet peas, cornflowers) can be sown indoors or planted outdoors in early spring.
Warm-season flowers (zinnia, cosmos, sunflowers, Amaranthus) should be planted after the last frost when the soil has warmed.
Succession sow every 2 to 3 weeks for continuous blooms.
Step 3: Planting Tips
As mentioned above, sometimes seeds don’t germinate, get eaten by pests, or rot. Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves and are 3 to 4 inches tall, you will simply “thin” out the weakest seedlings, choosing the hardiest plant of the bunch. Learn more about direct sowing and thinning.
As difficult as it is to “kill” seedlings, it’s important to space flowers generously to allow airflow and reduce disease risk.
Note: Larger flowers, like sunflowers, may need staking. Also, label beds or squares to track varieties and bloom times.
Step 4: Watering and Maintenance
Keep soil evenly moist using a soaker hose, drip line, or gentle hand watering.
Mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Harvest frequently—cutting flowers encourages new growth and prolongs blooming.
Step 5: Harvesting Flowers
Cut flowers in the morning when the blooms are hydrated.
Remove lower leaves before placing stems in water.
Re-cut stems every 1–2 days in fresh water for longer vase life. See our tips on Making a Beautiful Bouquet.

“This little plan produces enough flowers to see my family and friends through the summer into fall. Zinnias, cosmos, Amaranthus, and sunflowers are my favorites. I sow some seeds indoors and others directly in the beds once the soil warms. Harvesting regularly keeps the blooms coming, and it’s so satisfying to share fresh bouquets with everyone.”
–Susie H.

Why Grow a Dedicated Cutting Garden?
Boost pollinators and garden health: Annual flowers attract bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects that improve pollination for nearby plants.
Mark life’s milestones: Fresh bouquets brighten birthdays, anniversaries, and everyday moments.
Spark hope: Planting seeds and watching them bloom brings anticipation and a sense of renewal after long winters.
Promote relaxation: Floral scents connect to the brain’s emotional center, easing stress.
Lift beauty and mood: Colorful blooms help you feel connected to nature.


Q: Can I mix perennials with these annuals?
A: Yes! Reserve a small bed or border for perennials like echinacea or rudbeckia.
Q: Do I have to start seeds indoors?
A: Not always! It depends on the type of flower:
Warm-season flowers (like zinnias, sunflowers, and cosmos) are sensitive to frost, so it’s best to plant them outdoors after the last frost.
Cool-season flowers (like pansies, snapdragons, and sweet peas) can handle cooler weather, so starting them indoors a few weeks early gives them a jump start on the season.
Q: How do I keep flowers blooming all season?
A: For many annuals like zinnias, cosmos, and marigolds, succession planting every 2–3 weeks and harvesting regularly encourages continuous blooms. Some flowers, however, bloom just once per stem, so for those, planting new seeds or seedlings in succession ensures your garden stays colorful all season.
Q: How do I make bouquets last longer?
A:  Cut in the morning. Use clean, sharp tools—pruners or scissors give a clean cut and protect the plant. Snip at an angle. Leave enough foliage. Re-cut stems in water immediately
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/raised-bed-cut-flower-garden-plan-flower-farm-style
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from Becky's Greenhouse wagons 

Peppers growing in my 4" pots.  Unbelievable 
​
I am sorry to say it is getting warmer out today, and hotter and more humid this weekend.  I went over at 7:30 to water and move plants.  It was nice then, and as the morning went on it became warmer. This afternoon it is 75F(24C) again in the 90’s for the weekend. Here we go again it was nice having it cooler this week. Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends said, “The last 2 days a bit on the chilly side.”  You will notice the direction of their cold wind. “Yesterday felt bitterly cold, the wind must have been coming from the south.”  You remember it is the Southern Hemisphere.   Stay warm, stay safe.
 
I move these pepper plants to the area that I am calling my summer garden.  I will pick the peppers, and I don’t know if they will bloom again.  They are in a 4” pot.  Unbelievable that they can grow and produce.  I will enjoy them this way.  I think the peppers are doing well this summer for most of you.  Now you are waiting on the tomatoes.   I am also picking tomatoes from the 4” pots.  They aren’t as big, but they will still taste good. 
I am staging the plants to go to the herb festival for Sunday.  Grandboys will be down and help load up.  This Sunday in Greene from 10-3.  Last hurrah for the season. But the work isn’t done. I still have 4 wagons full so the plants will be planted for my summer garden, or I will compost them or unplant as I call it.  Watering trees and shrubs will continue of course, and all the plants in my summer garden.  I have succulents that need to be transplanted.  Just part of the list, so I will be working in the mornings, and home in the afternoon in the home/office.
How is your garden?  Heat and humidity hard on the plants.  During the fair I heard some stories about the tomatoes not setting on fruit and not growing well.  It could be the heat but also it could be what I talked about earlier planting the tomatoes when we still had those cold nights.  They love 60 degree nights which we didn’t get till middle of June, and they will survive at 50 degree nights but when below 45 degrees at night for several nights it will make the plant not grow well and affect fruit production.  We had several of those cold nights in May and after May 15th.  This is just food for thought for you to think about planting in the future we need to watch the weather day and night.
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

Sunflowers that look like could be used as cut flowers.  I see that is becoming a new and fun thing to do.  Making arrangements of cut flowers. 

tomato plants developed for containers.  These are cherry tomatoes.

Swiss Chard 

This is what I have started for my gardens in containers.  I am thinking I show you in pictures next spring what you can do with the plants, and how they look.  

Another beautiful day.  Might be a little warmer, and we don’t have the wind.  But the humidity is still low.  I was out at the greenhouse at 7:30 to work on watering the wagons.  Moving stuff around and still getting things back into place from the fair.  I will go out later this afternoon to work on more planting and cleaning up.  Never ending is it.  High today of 75F(24C).  Enjoy and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends Friday July 24th will have a high of 55F(13C) and chance of rain.  But the family has been doing their normal routine stuff yesterday was walking with friends and playing golf.  If you know the family, you will know who is doing what. Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Pictures are from my garden.  Jen, when she was home planted these tomatoes plants that are designed for containers. They are the 3rd picture.   Look at how nice and green they are.  They are growing and starting to bloom and set fruit.  Cherry tomatoes, but for the cost in the store these will be enjoyed. The plants are new to me, and I will be getting them again.  I do think I will have the plant gals put some in containers in early spring, so you can take them home all ready to grow and eat.

First picture is one of my favorite containers. Helianthus Sunfinity Double Yellow and the small flowers at the base in Melampodium Jackpot Gold.  Helianthus is sunflower and this is a dwarf kind developed for containers.
Sunflower) Add brightness and cheer to the garden with Sunfinity® Double Yellow Helianthus! This bright Helianthus features stark yellow petals with a golden center and a small, dark eye. Its vibrant blooms stand out amongst true green foliage. This is a vigorous grower and can reach a height of 32-40 inches and width of 24-30 inches. It grows in a bushy, upright habit which makes for a great tall border plant, or for mass planting in the garden. Sunfinity® Double Yellow continues to put on new blooms all summer long. We recommend deadheading to promote additional blooms. Sunfinity® sunflowers can be grown in a container but beware of its vigor and choose a larger container. You can be sure you'll see plenty of pollinator activity around this plant as its blooms attract pollinator bees. Sunfinity® Double Yellow Helianthus thrives when planted in full sun areas of the garden. We recommend fertilizing your annuals once a week with a water-soluble fertilizer. Continue to do this throughout the growing season. Plant your helianthus next to complimentary annuals for a colorful look in the garden.
 More Details
Name: Helianthus annuus Sunfinity® Double Yellow
Common Name: Sunflower
Sunlight: Full Sun (+6 hrs.)
Attracts Wings: Bee Friendly, Butterflies
Bloom Time: Late Spring or Early Summer, Late Summer, Summer
Flower Color: Yellow Shades
Max Height: 2 - 4 Feet
Max Spread: 2 - 3 Feet
Water Requirements: Average Water Needs
USDA Hardiness Zone: 9, 10, 11
Attributes: Cut Flower or Foliage, Dried Flower
Design Use: Border, Container, Massing, Specimen
Container Design: Thriller
 Gardener Tips
For general how to grow tips for Sunfinity® Double Yellow Sunflower (Helianthus) and how to care for your annuals.
Melampodium Jackpot gold is planted at the feet of the Double Yellow sunflower.  It just blooms and is an easy and happy plant.  I always have them in a 4 pack so you get more for you $. 
A more vigorous version of Million Gold, this variety offers the same heat and cool tolerances, and maintains its attractive appearance with very little care all season long. Melampodium is commonly known as Butter Daisy. Masses of 1" golden-orange flowers cover the bushy plants. This underused annual is excellent for gardens, landscapes and mixed combos.
Color: Golden-orange
Taken from https://gardencrossings.com/products/sunfinity-double-yellow-sunflower-helianthus
Taken from https://www.harrisseeds.com/products/23208-melampodium-jackpot-gold
​
Jen planted 2 pots of Swiss Chard into these containers.  Right away the deer found them and ate them down.  I put up on the wagons, and now they look like this.  I always loved the color of the foliage of Swiss Chard and felt it could go into a combination planter as an accent plant.  I will look up how to fix this as a vegetable.
Here is how to cook Swiss Chard.  By the looks of what they were using, these in the pots are really small, but I might try it anyway. 
Recipes
Swiss chard can be cooked quickly and deliciously by sautéing, steaming, blanching, or roasting, with stems cooked slightly longer than the leaves to ensure tenderness and flavor.
Preparing Swiss Chard
Wash thoroughly: Rinse the leaves and stems in cold water to remove dirt and grit, especially if freshly harvested or from a farmers’ market
Separate stems and leaves: Stems are tougher and require slightly longer cooking. Chop stems into ½–2 inch pieces and leaves into ribbons or bite-sized pieces
Optional trimming: Remove any tough or dried ends from the stems for better texture
Cooking Methods
1. Sautéing (Quick and Flavorful)
Heat 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil or butter in a skillet over medium-high heat.
Add chopped stems first and cook 3–5 minutes until slightly tender.
Add garlic, onion, or shallots and sauté for 30 seconds to 1 minute until fragrant.
Add the leaves and cook 2–5 minutes until wilted but still vibrant.
Finish with lemon juice, Parmesan, or seasonings like red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper
Serve immediately as a side dish or over grains like quinoa or pasta.
2. Steaming
Place chopped stems in a steamer basket over boiling water for 3–5 minutes.
Add leaves on top and steam 2–3 more minutes until tender.
Season with olive oil, lemon, or herbs
3. Blanching
Boil water with a pinch of salt.
Add stems first for 2–3 minutes, then leaves for 1–2 minutes.
Transfer to ice water to stop cooking, then drain and use in salads, pastas, or stir-fries
4. Roasting or Baking
Preheat oven to 375–400°F (190–200°C).
Toss chopped chard with olive oil, salt, and optional seasonings.
Roast 10–25 minutes until leaves are tender and slightly crispy, stirring halfway through.
Taken from Copilot
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from naturalremedyideas.com 

Do you grow these in your gardens or on the patio to help with mosquitos?  Interesting this posting says we have to use it on our skin to work. i know others come in and have a recipe of plants to help when they are on the patio. 

WOW what a lovely day.  Summers best.  Lower temperature and humidity with a north, northwest wind.  What a nice change from last week.  Looks like till Friday we will have this, and then the heat and humidity come back.  DARN  I have herb festival this Sunday.  But we will be there. 
We have everything back from the fair.  Larry takes different equipment and tractors to use at Grandpa’s Farm.  He takes a pickup with a pump, water tank and generator so I can water the plants every day.  Of course, all the plants and all the stuff for the booth area.  We had 3” of water inside the greenhouse from Monday’s rain, so have that mess to clean up too.  I worked this morning earlier and now I am working in the house/office on things. Believe it or not, I need to water the wagons after 3.3 inches of rain on Monday.  I will work on that later in the day.  I am now getting plants planted and organized for my summer garden.   Love doing that for me.
Sorry I forgot one more article about mosquitos and the plants that repel them.  I find this interesting.  I do have those plants here, so will give them a try if it works because we will have mosquitoes.  ENJOY the day and stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their Thursday July 23rd will have high of 55F(13C) with a low of44F(6C) with a chance of rain.  One of the friends wrote “the mornings have been cold, but we have had some sunshine in the afternoons.”  Stay warm, stay safe. 
 
How many of you plant these plants to help with mosquitoes?  It makes sense that you use it on your skin, and not have it in a pot by you.  Is that what you get from this article? 
Plants That Repel Mosquitoes and Other Biting Bugs  Written By: Robin Sweetser
When summer arrives, so do the biting bugs! Can plants alone really repel mosquitoes and other nuisance insects in the garden? Here’s what the science says, as well as a list of plants with insect-repellent properties.
Mosquitoes are more than a nuisance, as there are many mosquito-borne diseases out there, including viruses such as West Nile, Eastern Equine Encephalitis, and Dengue. It’s not just mosquitoes, either—gnats, biting flies, ants, and other pests can take the fun right out of any outdoor activity.
Do Mosquito-Repellent Plants Really Work?
Mosquitoes and many other biting insects target their victims by the odors and gases we give off—carbon dioxide, sweat, and smelly feet, to name a few. Mosquitoes, for example, can be attracted by the carbon dioxide in our breath from as far as 150 feet away.
Luckily, the strong scents produced by some common garden plants can block the scent receptors that the bugs use to find us—but simply including strongly scented plants in your garden isn’t enough to keep the bugs at bay. In most cases, a much stronger, more concentrated amount of a plant’s scent is needed to throw the bugs off your trail.
It’s All in the Oils
The key to generating a strong enough insect-repellent scent is to release the essential oils within a plant’s leaves. These oils actually have an insect-repelling effect. Burning sprigs of the plant or crushing the foliage are the best ways to release their oils.
At home, it’s easiest to crush the leaves and apply them topically whenever you’re working in the garden. Simply pinch off a few leaves and crush them in your hands to release their essential oils, then rub the crushed leaves on your skin to create a mosquito-repellent layer.
(WARNING: Be wary of allergies! Direct contact with the oils of some plants may irritate the skin. We recommend testing the crushed leaves on a small part of the underside of an arm or leg before applying it elsewhere.)
It’s important to keep in mind that although some plants may indeed repel insects, using them as suggested below will not produce the same insect-repelling results as commercial insect repellents, which have been engineered for effectiveness and longevity. In most cases, using the leaves from a plant will only provide moderate protection for a short period of time. As a rule of thumb, if you can’t smell the scent on yourself any longer, it’s probably not keeping the bugs away anymore!
Which Plants Have Insect-Repelling Properties?
Many plants that are labeled as “insect-repelling” are, in fact, not. Specifically, the so-called “mosquito plant,” Pelargonium citrosum, has shown little to no evidence of repelling mosquitoes despite its name and pleasantly lemon-scented leaves.
So, here are a few scented plants that actually have insect-repelling qualities when used correctly:

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) and citronella grass (C. nardus) have proven mosquito-repelling abilities thanks to the citronella oil contained within their leaves. The leaves can be crushed and rubbed on bare skin to ward off biting bugs. Tall, tropical grasses, lemongrass, and citronella grass will only survive as perennials in frost-free zones; those who live in colder climates will need to keep them in pots and bring them inside when temperatures drop in the fall.

Lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus) is another citrus-scented plant that can be used as a topical insect repellent. Burning sprigs of lemon thyme (on the outdoor grill, for example) is also effective at keeping nuisance insects away from the immediate area.

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), like lemon thyme, gives off a scent that’s offensive to insects. Apply it topically. If you’re planning to grow it, keep in mind that lemon balm is in the mint family, so confine it to a pot to keep it from spreading like crazy!

Lavender has a strong scent that can repel moths, flies, fleas, and mosquitoes. Use fresh or dry some of the flowers to hang around the house or put in with your clothing to keep bugs out.

Garlic keeps away more than vampires. To be effective against bugs, however, the cloves must be rubbed on the skin, which may end up being more offensive to other humans than to insects. (Sadly, consuming garlic hasn’t been shown to keep the bugs away.)

Rosemary may prevent flies and mosquitoes from ruining a cookout. If the bugs are really bad, throw a few sprigs of rosemary on the grill, and the aromatic smoke will help drive the mosquitoes away.

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is a culinary herb that does double duty by repelling flies and mosquitoes, too. It’s one of the most pungent herbs and even gives off a strong scent without its leaves being crushed. If you’re looking for an insect-repelling plant that you can “set and forget,” basil is your best bet.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) contains a substance called nepetalactone, which has been found to be even more effective than DEET at repelling mosquitoes in lab trials. Unfortunately, when crushed leaves were applied topically, catnip appeared to have little to no insect-repelling effect, so don’t depend on this plant to keep the mosquitoes away.

We’re sure other plants have acquired a bug-repelling reputation, but we wouldn’t depend on only a few plants to make our yards insect-free. One of the most effective things you can do to cut the mosquito population down is to eliminate any standing water where their larvae may be living.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/mosquito-repellents-and-bite-remedies
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from ar.sinspiredpencil.com 

Posting the 3rd information about mosquito bites.  How to relieve the itching.

Thank you for the gardeners that came today.  It is great weather to be adding to your garden. It isn't too late.  You will see that I am planting yet and really just started to plant for me.  I had some containers get too dry while we were at the fair, so I will plant to add more and compost those dried up ones.  
​
Best Way to Relieve Bites and Itching
It helps to ice the area of the bite to constrict the capillaries near the skin’s surface and reduce swelling. If you are going to use a topical cream, you can likely do better than Caladryl and calamine lotions for mosquito bites; it’s better to apply a low-potency hydrocortisone and be patient.
Remember: Do not scratch the bite; this will only make it worse.
White vinegar is a remedy for relieving the itch of insect bites. Don’t use vinegar if the area is raw.
A paste of baking soda and water can provide much-needed relief for bug bites
Oatmeal can also help to provide itch relief—not only for bug bites.
Some people claim to have luck with high doses of vitamin B1 (such as 100 milligrams, two or three times a day), but it doesn’t work for everybody.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/mosquito-repellents-and-bite-remedies
Till next time this is Becky Litterer , Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse  image from ar.inspriedpencil.com