​tomato disease Powdery mildew
White, powdery patches on tomato leaves? That’s powdery mildew—more common in dry days with cool, humid nights. Credit AmBNPHOTO

​Wilting tomato leaves
Bacterial Wilt of tomato caused by Ralstonia solanacearum
Watering won’t help—bacterial wilt clogs the plant’s vessels from the inside out. Credit:  AmBNPHOTO

​Good morning, and when you go outside you will notice it is almost crisp out  Humidity is low.  Going to be an awesome day except for the smoke in the air from the fires.  Stay safe and enjoy.
 
Australia family and friends for August 1, Friday will have rainy conditions around 2 AM.  Their time now at 8:30 AM on Thursday for us, and for them it is 11:30 PM Thursday evening.  Stay dry, stay safe.
 
Last of the tomato diseases.  I hope you are having any of these.  It soon will be producing lots of fruit for you.  I know lots of salsas, juice, pasta sauce, pizza sauce and tomato soup will be processed and canned.  I, myself, love to can.   I will find time to do that when the tomatoes are ready.  I didn’t get to do it last year because of our trip to Australia.  That was a lifetime trip for sure.  I am keeping in touch with family and friends there, which is what we wanted when we went on the trip.  Sightseeing was great, but the family and friends are a lifetime. 
 
White spots
tomato disease Powdery mildew
White, powdery patches on tomato leaves? That’s powdery mildew—more common in dry days with cool, humid nights. Credit AmBNPHOTO
White spots on tomato leaves can be caused by sunscald or insect problems. Insects with piercing, sucking mouthparts often leave small white dots behind as they go, where they’ve slurped up all the good stuff out of the leaf cells, leaving them pale and white. It could be thrips or leaf miners.
However, if it’s a tomato disease-related issue, it may be powdery mildew. This fungal disease isn’t usually a huge problem in tomatoes, but it can slow them down and reduce yields by interfering with photosynthesis. Powdery mildew makes the plant leaves look like they’ve been dusted with flour. There may be white spots at the beginning of the infection.
To combat powdery mildew, space plants adequately and prune to maintain good air circulation. It’s okay to remove the infected leaves, but it usually isn’t necessary.
Resistant varieties: ‘Rebelski’ and ‘Geronimo’
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Wilting tomato leaves
Bacterial Wilt of tomato caused by Ralstonia solanacearum
Watering won’t help—bacterial wilt clogs the plant’s vessels from the inside out. Credit:  AmBNPHOTO
Tomatoes wilt in extreme heat and weather due to dehydration, but if adequate soil moisture is present, it could be a sign of bacterial wilt.
Bacterial wilt is caused by an organism called Ralstonia solanacearum. It lives in the soil for years and enters the plant through wounds caused by insects, transplanting damage, or other factors. Once in the plant, it fills the portions of the stem that conduct water with slime, choking it off and causing the wilt. The wilt, after all, is merely a symptom of the leaves not getting enough water.
Bacterial wilt is characterized by wilting leaves that stay green. If you cut an infected stem, you may see a brown or yellow slime inside.
Controlling bacterial wilt is best done with cultural methods. Remove and dispose of all infected plant material (don’t compost it) and switch to growing a non-tomato-family crop in that site, such as corn, beans, or squash. While crop rotation often doesn’t help gardeners much with insect pests, it can be beneficial in managing bacterial wilt. Wait at least 3 years before growing tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants in that location.
Taken from Taken from https://www.almanac.com/whats-wrong-my-tomato-plant-visual-guide-leaf-problems
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com, Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse

 black leaves on tomates   Dark, greasy-looking spots on leaves and stems? That’s late blight, and it spreads fast in wet weather. Credit: JPC-PROD  ​

black on leaves    ​​Tiny, round spots with dark borders and light centers? That’s Septoria leaf spot, a fungal disease that loves damp leaves.

      ​Good morning, we got rain again last night another .6 inches.  I haven’t kept track of the total, but it is a lot.  But we didn’t have the wind so that helped with keeping everything safe.  It is still humid out but the temperature is at 71F(21C)  There is no more rain in the future for a few days. Winds will be changing to the N NW so wondering if that will be the less humid air.  Partly cloudy skies.  Stay cool yet and stay safe.  

 Australia family and friends said they are not having rain but a typical winter day.  Predicted for their July 31 Thursday weather is rainy conditions expected around 7 AM, wind gusts are up to 6 mph.  Low for them will be 40F(4C0 and high of 55F(13C).  Stay warm, stay safe.  Time for them when we are Wed July 30 at 11:00 AM is 2:00 AM July 31st.  It gives you an idea of the time difference. 
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Continuing with tomato diseases you can get.
Tomato leaves turning black
Black tomato leaves are typically a later stage of one of the fungal diseases or wilts, such as late blight, bacterial leaf spot, or Septoria leaf spot. Black leaves can also be a result of frost damage or herbicide drift.
Leaves and stems of tomato leaves attacked by late blight.
 Dark, greasy-looking spots on leaves and stems? That’s late blight, and it spreads fast in wet weather. Credit: JPC-PROD
A black tomato leaf won’t recover, and you’ll likely find less severe signs higher on the plant since many tomato diseases progress from the ground level. Look for other signs on less distressed leaves, like brown or yellow spotting, curling, and wilting. If you find those areas, troubleshoot from there.
If you can’t figure out what is causing the leaves to turn black, it’s best to remove and dispose of the plant, sanitize your tools, and keep a close eye on other tomato plants and those in the Solanaceae family, like peppers, potatoes, and eggplants.
Black spots on tomato leaves
Tiny, round spots with dark borders and light centers? That’s Septoria leaf spot, a fungal disease that loves damp leaves.
Black spots on tomato leaves are a common sign of Septoria leaf spot. It’s caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici. It overwinters on old plant material left in the garden.
Septoria loves wet weather and usually shows first on the lower leaves as small, dark brown or black spots with a gray center. Eventually, the spots can merge together and take over, causing the leaf to wither and drop off. The characteristic lighter center is a good identifier, and Septoria won’t affect the fruit like bacterial spot (Xanthomonas) or early blight.
Like all fungal diseases, controls include mulching underneath, adequate plant spacing, avoiding overhead watering, irrigating in the morning, cleaning up and removing dead vegetation, and planting resistant varieties. Prune off the lower set of branches that might be in contact with the ground to increase airflow and reduce the likelihood of infection.
Resistant varieties: Most tomato varieties are susceptible.
Hope you don’t have any of these this year. 
Taken from Taken from https://www.almanac.com/whats-wrong-my-tomato-plant-visual-guide-leaf-problems
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com, Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse

​Yellowing leaves with brown, target-like spots? That’s early blight. Credit: AmBNPHOTO

​When early blight hits the fruit, it shows up as sunken, leathery spots near the stem end—often with concentric rings. Credit: Plant Pathology

  ​Good morning…we made it through another night of storms and wind.  Only 12 miles from here in Rockwell, they have lots of trees down.  We have one in Dougherty, lots of branches down but are ok around the greenhouse.  This spring Larry worked on taking down several dead ash trees.  Three would have affected his shop’s electricity, and 2 would have landed on the west greenhouse.  So thankful that he did that. We had another .5 of rain.  Sadly we aren’t done, another round of thunderstorms for tonight and rain most of tomorrow. But we go from 90 degrees heat index to a very normal summer day with temperatures in the 70’s and low humidity for the rest of the week.  I am looking forward to that.  Then I will work outside in the greenhouse area doing what I must do.  Plant, see what to keep, and compost.  I have lots of ideas yet on containers to plant. I am working on next year’s project on what grows well in containers for your garden.   
Continue to stay safe and stay cool.
 
Australia family and friends for July 30 Wed will have a low of 38F(3C) with partly cloudy conditions continuing through the morning.  Wind gusts are up to 7 mph.  Looks like a chance of rain and a high of 55F(13C)  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Tomatoes might be our favorite garden crop, but they often come with a host of leaf problems—yellowing, spotting, curling, wilting—that can look very similar and be tricky to diagnose. These diseases can spread quickly once they take hold, making prevention key. One of the smartest ways to protect your crop is to choose tomato varieties bred for resistance to common diseases in your area. Whether you prefer slicers, paste, or cherry tomatoes, many disease-resistant options—hybrids, heirlooms, and open-pollinated types alike—are available. Pairing the right variety with good care brings you closer to that perfect summer sauce.
Beyond choosing the right plants, simple practices like mulching to block soil splash, pruning for airflow, and watering at the base can help manage or even prevent most tomato leaf problems. Gardeners have battled these challenges for generations—long before modern fungicides—and time-tested habits still go a long way.
Today, I posted two more tomato problems.  The first one leaf curl is from being too dry, so don’t think that will be a concern this year.  The second one is the blight.  Have a read about them, and good luck with your tomatoes.
Leaf Curl
Leaves curling up like scrolls? That may just be your tomato trying to conserve moisture in hot, dry weather. When tomatoes curl their leaves, they’re usually stressed from a hot spell—not sick. Think heat, wind, or water woes.
But watch for yellowing or stunted growth. Leaves curling upward as if rolling in toward their center can be caused by the tomato yellow leaf curl virus. The disease is transmitted by whiteflies, which can bring it from nearby weeds or other infected crops. Symptoms include yellowing leaf margins (the edges) and curling leaves, stunted growth, and dropped flowers. Because this disease is insect-transmitted, you may find it on one plant but not its neighbor, which is a good sign it isn’t a soil-borne fungal issue.
There isn’t much to do but remove the infected plants and dispose of them to prevent whiteflies from continuing to feed on them. Keep weeds controlled around the garden, as some of them may be hosts for whiteflies.
Many diseases can cause spots on tomato leaves, and early blight is a likely culprit. We have an entire article about early blight, because it’s a common problem. It’s a fungal disease caused by two different species of Alternaria.
Early blight typically first appears in midsummer and initially presents as small, dark brown spots on older leaves near the soil line. The spots are round, but are larger than other diseases, ranging from the size of a pencil eraser to as big as your thumbnail. They may develop concentric rings, similar to a bullseye or rings on a tree, and the leaf tissue surrounding the spots will begin to turn yellow. Eventually, the leaves wither and drop. Fruit can also be affected, developing dark, leathery spots.
To combat early blight, trim off and dispose of infected foliage, and keep the leaves dry. Avoid watering in the evening, and water at the base of the plants if possible. Mulch plants to prevent soil from splashing onto the leaves, and fertilize them to keep them growing vigorously. Planting disease-resistant cultivars will give you a good head start.
Plant Diseases
Early blight of tomatoes is a common issue that many tomato gardeners face. If left unchecked, it can destroy your tomato plants and severely hamper your harvest. Here’s how to watch for signs of early blight and keep it in check.
What Is Early Blight?
Early blight is a fungal pathogen of tomatoes. It also affects plants like peppers, potatoes, eggplants, and other members of the nightshade family.
This fungus first attacks the lower leaves of tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc., and moves up the plant. It is often confused with Septoria leaf spot, Verticillium and Fusarium wilts, and bacterial leaf spot.
How Does Early Blight Spread?
During wet or humid conditions, like warm days with significant rainfall or morning dew, the fungus that causes early blight can replicate rapidly. Spores can be produced as quickly as 3–5 days after spots first appear.
These spores are then ready to infect more areas of your plant or drift to an adjacent victim. Alternaria spores can be spread by wind, people and animals, and by contaminated tools. Lower leaves commonly become infected when in contact with contaminated soil or when soil is splashed onto the leaves by rain or irrigation.
High humidity levels, rain, and wind contribute to the spreading of Alternaria spores. In other words, warm, humid summers with evening thunderstorms, like many of us experience in June, July, and August. The spores can overwinter in the soil and in contaminated plant material.
Early blight can cause cankers that girdle the plant. The Alternaria fungus also releases phytotoxins, toxic chemicals to the host plant—your tomato or potato. The result is struggling or even dead plants, and a reduced harvest.
Identification
Early blight begins on lower older leaves in midsummer when temperatures warm. Watch for these signs when walking in your garden:
Small dark spots may appear on older leaves near the soil. Spots are brown and round and may develop concentric rings.
Early blight spots range from the size of a pencil eraser to almost as big as a dime.
Leaf tissue surrounding the spots may turn yellow.
Eventually, infected leaves will turn brown completely and wither. They may fall off or remain attached to the plant as dried-out husks.
Stem infections are often oval in shape and also present in concentric rings.
Fruit can be infected and develops dark, leathery spots with raised ridges. Infection happens near the stem, and the fruit may drop off.
Is It Early Blight or Another Problem?
As mentioned, several tomato diseases are commonly mistaken for each other. Sometimes, your tomatoes may have more than one issue going on.
Here’s a quick primer, and if you want more information on how to avoid misdiagnosis, check this page from NC State Extension.
Early blight: ¼ to ½ inch brown spots on leaves. Oval spots on stems. Fruit is affected near the stem. Many spots will have concentric rings like a bullseye. Starts on lower leaves.
Septoria leaf spot: Much smaller spots on leaves than early blight. Spots are usually round, about 1/16 of an inch, and often light gray in the center.
Fusarium and Verticillium wilts: Wilting is the key indicator. Stems will show brown fungus inside the water-carrying tissues. Leaf yellowing is common. Fusarium may wilt only one branch or one side of the plant at first.
Early blight is a fungal disease, and for the home gardener, mass application of fungicides is not practical or advised. Your best option is to apply some Integrated Pest Management principles to limit the fungus’ spread and survival.
Prevention and Monitoring
Early blight is common in tomato gardens. While it may be impossible to prevent it completely, several measures can limit the spread and intensity of early blight.
Closely inspect any transplants you purchase and bring home. If starting plants from seed, disinfect your containers and tools to kill any potential fungus from the previous season.
Alternaria are soil-borne fungi, so cleaning your equipment is essential. Snippers, cultivators, shovels, trowels, and any tool used on your tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and peppers should be disinfected before moving to another area of the garden.
Give your tools a quick scrub to remove soil, then dip or spray them with a mild bleach solution.
Choose Tolerant/Resistant Plants
Some tomato varieties exhibit more tolerance to early blight. Unfortunately, this tolerance doesn’t mean complete immunity, but rather that the tomato will “shrug off” and be less affected by the fungus.
Many hybrids and even a few heirloom varieties are available that are less susceptible to Alternaria fungi and blight.
Treatments for Early Blight
Early blight cannot be cured, and cultural methods such as those below are the most effective for the home gardener. Fungicidal treatments for early blight are costly, environmentally damaging, labor-intensive, and thus not practical.
Keep your plants growing vigorously
Fertile, rich soil and lots of sunlight can go a long way to helping tomatoes (and potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) keep marching when early blight starts to show up.
Compost will help your tomatoes to thrive, without the lack of fruiting that too much artificial fertilizer can cause.
Irrigate from below
If you irrigate your garden, try to avoid overhead systems for your tomatoes. Alternaria thrive in wet, humid conditions. The combination of damp foliage and soil splash from overhead sprinklers can worsen a fungus problem.
Use drip irrigation or, if you water by hand, take care to water at the base of the plant and not from up high.
Mulch, mulch, mulch
Mulch is your friend. From weed suppression to soil protection and eventual breakdown into the soil’s organic matter, mulch is hard to beat. In the case of early blight, mulching reduces soil splash from rain or irrigation. It provides a barrier to fungus movement from the soil to the lower leaves.
Prune your tomatoes
Keeping the lower leaves from touching the soil, and promoting airflow through the plant, especially near the ground, can significantly reduce the likelihood of many tomato diseases becoming established. Remove those bottom leaves that aren’t doing much, and let in some fresh air.
Remove infected tissues early
Leaves showing signs of early blight should be pruned off and disposed of. Bury them deeply or burn them. Slowing the progression of the fungi can provide the plant an edge to keep growing up top and have time to give a batch of tasty tomatoes.
Removing the entire plant in the fall after your harvest will eliminate a significant spore source for next spring. Spores can overwinter in the dead vegetation they infect.
Rotation is important
For early blight, rotating where you grow tomatoes and related crops can provide a considerable advantage to your plants.
Alternaria fungi overwinter in the soil, so grow something from a different plant family for two years before returning tomatoes, potatoes, or other Solanaceae to that plot.
Taken from Taken from https://www.almanac.com/whats-wrong-my-tomato-plant-visual-guide-leaf-problems
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com, Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from ​A tomato in trouble: Yellowing, wilting leaves are classic signs of Fusarium wilt. Credit: Plant Pathology

GOOD morning this Monday.  It is warming up and humidity is coming back.  We had wind last night, strong wind but looks like just some leaves and small branches are down.  The fruit trees all fell, but I got them picked up.  We got .6 of rain, so I don’t have to water wagons, trees and shrubs today. 
Yesterday the Herb festival went very well.  There were 4 of us sharing the parking lot for the public boat ramp that was closed because of the high water.  I must tell you it was an awesome spot.  We had shade trees, it was on a flat surface, and it was easy access to all the vendors in the basketball court.  We all hope they can get that space next year.  We had many in wheelchairs, and walkers that found it very nice to be able to shop.  Thank you, Greene Garden Club, for an good experience even with the hot, humid day we had.  I brought back less plants so that was my goal.  As I told a few, Larry will be happy to not load up so many plants for back to the greenhouse.
After this hot, humid weather, I will be back out working with the plants.  I need to decide if I will keep the flats, plant the flats for my garden or compost.  I am here to help you during the week.  I have had some questions about hanging baskets , yes I have some nice ones yet that we planted later so if you need some for a spot in your garden you can stop in.  I have many annuals left, perennials are here, lilies are ready to bloom.  The shrubs look awesome with the rain, and still a nice selection of trees.    I might be working outside, or I might be in the house/office working on bookwork.  We have a camera so when I see you drive up, I will be out.  There is still time to plant and enjoy your gardens.  That is what I am doing planting and enjoying. 
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Our weather, as all of you know is warm and heat advisory again from 12noon to 8PM.  Potential for overnight severe storms again tonight.  High today of 87F(31C).  Stay cool, stay safe

Australia weather for family and friends for Tuesday July 29. You might be wondering what time it is for them when I post this.  It is 10:50 AM on Monday morning here in Dougherty, and for them it is 1:50 AM Tuesday morning.  Their low will be 42F(5c)  and a high of 57F(14C).  For them they wear winter clothing. They are having wind so it will feel colder for them. Stay warm, stay safe.

Keeping Your Tomatoes Healthy
Tomato leaf problems can be frustrating, but they’re not the end of your harvest. With a little observation, a few preventive steps, and the right variety, most issues can be managed before they take hold.
As always, healthy soil and attentive gardening are your best defense. Keep a journal, note what worked (and what didn’t), and don’t be afraid to try new varieties next season. After all, every great tomato gardener learns a little more each year. 
I am going to share with you several things that can happen to your tomatoes. I will be posting each one separately so you can study each one.  Hopefully you are not having any trouble but if you are hopeful this helps. 

1st problem
Yellowing Tomato Leaves  Fusarium wilt disease on tomato
Tomato leaves turning yellow are a general indicator that something is wrong, similar to when humans have a fever. While poor nutrition can be a cause, when discussing tomato diseases, there are typically additional signs, such as wilting or spots on the stems and leaves.
However, if entire leaves are turning yellow, a likely culprit is Fusarium wilt, caused by the fungal organism Fusarium oxysporum. Warmer summer soil temperatures bring on this problem, allowing the fungus to gain a foothold in the plant through injuries to the roots caused by cultivation, nematodes, moles, or even vigorous weeding. Once in the plant, the fungus clogs the water-conducting tissue (xylem) and inhibits water transport, causing the plant to wilt.
Yellowing leaves, especially without other symptoms, are a good indicator. Remove infected plants, choose resistant varieties, and sanitize your garden tools. If you have continual problems, try soil solarization.
Resistant varieties: ‘Celebrity Plus’, ‘Supersweet 100’, ‘Early Girl’, ‘Jolene’, ‘Plum Regal’
Prevention and Monitoring
Of course, we would rather not have any Fusarium spores or hyphae at all. Monitoring will alert you to a developing problem. Prevention ideas include:
Purchase transplants and seeds from a reliable supplier. Seeds can be heat-treated or fumigated by the vendor to ensure no spores are hiding in your seed packets. A professional nursery or grower will monitor and take steps to keep their stock Fusarium wilt-free.
Clean your tools. Do this for tools used in potentially contaminated areas before moving to a new spot and before storing them for the winter. After scrubbing them, dip your tools in a mild bleach solution.
Fusarium fungi prefer acidic soils, so liming to raise your pH to be neutral or slightly alkaline  (soil pH of 7 or a touch higher) can limit their activity. Don’t overdo it. Highly alkaline pH can limit plant nutrient availability.
Choose Resistant Plants
Gardeners have many options when choosing which varieties to plant; some have been bred to resist Fusarium. The seed catalog or website listing will often state a particular cultivar’s resistance to Fusarium, Verticillium, harmful nematodes, and many other pests and diseases.
If you have previously experienced a problem with a particular pest, choosing a resistant variety is perhaps one of the most important and easiest ways to minimize the impact.
You may see the resistance abbreviated as ‘F’ or ‘FNV.’ The latter would indicate resistance to Fusarium, nematodes (the bad ones), and Verticillium. Seeds labeled ‘TMV’ would show resistance to the tomato mosaic virus.
Tomato seed may be labeled ‘F’, ‘FF’ or ‘FFF’ to indicate resistance to one or more races of F. oxysporum f.sp. Lycopersici. Check the key or legend of your seed catalog to confirm.
Treatments for Fusarium Wilt
There is no “cure” for Fusarium wilt. Fungicides are not effective. Your best bet is to limit the spread and food source, and choose resistant plants, as discussed above.
Get rid of infested plants
Remove infected plants. Don’t compost them. Bury them (somewhere else) or burn them. Getting rid of these infected plants can reduce the amount of spore present next year and slow the spread.
Move plants around
Rotate your plants. For example, if you experienced Fusarium wilt in your tomatoes, move next year’s tomato planting to a new area and grow a non-susceptible plant in the old spot. (This is known as “crop rotation.”)
Fusarium is host-specific, so the fungus that attacked your tomatoes likely won’t bother your melons, beans, etc. Don’t replant a susceptible species for several years. Avoid planting a related species in that location, like following tomatoes with peppers (they are both members of the Nightshade family, Solanaceae).
Use soil solarization
Fusarium spores in the soil may be killed by a technique called soil solarization. Basically, bare ground is covered in clear plastic to harness the sun’s rays and heat the earth, killing the pathogen.
The process can take several weeks during the summer, so you may have to forfeit the peak of the growing season. However, you can still plant a late crop of delicious lettuces, kale, and peas, right?
Fusarium wilt can be challenging if allowed to spread in your garden. Take the actions given above early. Choosing resistant varieties, rotating crops, and cleaning your tools will go a long way toward keep Fusarium risk low.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/whats-wrong-my-tomato-plant-visual-guide-leaf-problems
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com, Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from Mynbc5.com

      Good morning.  Waking up to a light blue sky with clouds.  You will see later what this means for the dew point of the day.  High today of 84F(29C) with a dew point of 69F(20C).  I am going to put the dew point in each time also, so we can get used to reading what that is and how comfortable or uncomfortable it will be.   I will be working on my garden planting this morning early, doing some watering to keep plants moist, and then go to the house/office to work.   Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Saturday July 26 will be rainy conditions and wind gusts up to 18 mph will make the temperature feel like 46F(7C).  Temperature should be around 60F(15C) Stay warm, stay dry, stay safe. 
 
What Is Dewpoint? The Real Reason Air Feels Hot and Sticky
Dewpoint explained!  By Catherine Boeckmann
When folks grumble about feeling uncomfortable in July, they often say, “It’s not the heat; it’s the humidity.” And sure, it’s humid—but the dewpoint is what tells you how muggy and sticky the air feels. Whether you’re tending your garden, heading out for a run, or just trying to survive a summer day, let’s break down what humidity means—and why dewpoint matters more than you might think.
As soon as you wake up in the morning, you can get a good sense of how humid it is outside—just by looking at the sky out your window. No weather apps needed. Read the sky:
Deep blue sky: This means the air is dry. You’ll often see this kind of clear, rich blue on crisp, cool days or in places with low humidity like Montana.
Light blue sky with a nearly white horizon: This shows average humidity. The air holds some moisture, but it’s nothing too sticky or uncomfortable.
Milky or hazy sky: This is a sign of very humid air, which is common in summer in places like the Carolinas and the Gulf States. That whitish haze happens because there’s so much moisture floating in the air.
What is Humidity? Stick With Me!
You know that sticky feeling on a hot summer day—when you practically peel yourself off vinyl car seats or the laundry just won’t dry on the line? That’s humidity at work. It comes from water vapor, which is invisible moisture floating around in the air.
There are a couple of ways to measure how much moisture is in the air—but let’s focus on the two most common ones:
1. Relative Humidity (What You Usually See on Weather Apps)
This is the one most people are familiar with because it shows up in your phone’s weather forecast. It’s a percentage that tells you how close the air is to being “full” of moisture.
For example:  If the relative humidity is 100%, the air is completely saturated—any more moisture, and you’ll get dew, fog, or rain.
If it’s 60%, the air is a little over halfway full.
But here’s the catch: relative humidity changes depending on the temperature. Warmer air can hold more moisture than cooler air, so the same amount of water vapor might feel humid in the morning but drier in the afternoon.
That’s why meteorologists often prefer another measurement…
2. Dewpoint (A Better Way to Tell How Humid It Feels)
While weather apps usually show relative humidity, dewpoint is actually a better way to tell how humid or muggy it feels outside.
So what is it?
The dewpoint is the temperature at which the air becomes so full of moisture that it can’t hold any more—and water starts to condense into dew, fog, or even rain. It’s measured in degrees, just like temperature.
But here’s the key difference:
Dewpoint doesn’t change just because the temperature goes up or down. It reflects the actual amount of moisture in the air. So it’s a much more reliable way to judge how humid the day really is.
Why Dewpoint Feels More Accurate
Let’s say it’s 68°F in the early morning, and the air is completely saturated. The relative humidity is 100%, and the dewpoint is also 68°F. You might see dew on the grass or fog in the air.
Later in the day, the temperature rises to 90°F. The air can now hold more moisture, so the relative humidity drops to 50%—but the dewpoint stays at 68°F, because the amount of moisture hasn’t changed.
That’s why dewpoint is the go-to measurement for meteorologists and weather nerds—it gives you the real story about how sticky or dry the air feels, no matter the time of day.
Dewpoint Comfort Levels
Here’s a quick cheat sheet to help you understand what dewpoint numbers feel like:
65°F and above: Very humid—feels sticky and heavy.
Low 60s: Somewhat humid—you might notice the moisture, but it’s manageable.
50s: Comfortable—most people feel good in this range.
40s and below: Dry and crisp—think of cool mountain air.
If you want to know whether you’ll be sweating through your shirt or enjoying a pleasant breeze, check the dewpoint, not just the temperature.
Dewpoint Can Even Predict How Cool the Night Will Be
Here’s a neat trick: the dewpoint can help you guess the lowest temperature overnight.
Air can’t cool down below the dewpoint without something big changing—like a new air mass moving in. That’s because once the air cools to the dewpoint, moisture starts to condense into dew or fog. This process releases a little bit of heat into the air, which actually slows down further cooling.
So, if the dewpoint is 60°F in the evening, chances are the overnight low will stay right around 60°F—not much lower.
This is super handy for planning:
Want to know if you’ll need a jacket by morning?
Wondering if the tomatoes will get hit with a cold snap?
Check the dewpoint. It’s not just about muggy afternoons—it’s also a quiet clue to how the night will feel.
Wrapping It Up: Know Your Dewpoint, Know Your Comfort
Now you know—it’s not just the temperature or the humidity making you sweat. It’s the dewpoint that really tells the story. By learning to read dewpoint ranges and what they mean, you’ll get a much clearer sense of what’s going on in the air around you.
Whether you’re planning a hike, working in the garden, or just trying to stay cool, keeping an eye on the dewpoint can help you stay one step ahead of those muggy summer days
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/dewpoint
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or  Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from pinterst.com 

      We got rain last night.  Ponding on the grass again. So, no watering today.  I will work on doing some planting.  The weather man said less humidity and cooler temperatures  high of 80F(27C) and looks that way till Sunday and Monday the heat advisory will be back.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Thursday July 25 will have 59F(15C) for a high and a low of 34F(1C) for Friday morning.  Stay warm, stay safe.

Here is an interesting article about what to put in the refrigerator for storing the fresh vegetables.  I knew some of these but found some interesting things to do.  Enjoy the harvest of the summer with keeping them fresh.

How to store food in the fridge vs. countertop by Catherine Boeckmann
Quick quiz: Do you store apples in the fridge? How about tomatoes? Where do you put your garlic? Check our list of vegetables and fruit to see how we store produce. Hint: The fridge is not always the answer!
List of Vegetables to Store in Refrigerator
Asparagus: Store asparagus by placing the spears upright in an open container (such as a drinking glass or a jar) that contains about an inch of water. Cover the asparagus loosely with a produce bag. It should keep for 10 to 14 days.
Beans (snap): Store snap beans, such as green beans, in a perforated produce bag in the refrigerator, and they should keep for about a week. Note that their condition will deteriorate faster if they are kept below 40°F.
Brussels sprouts: Store sprouts in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a month.
Broccoli: Store broccoli in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Do not wash it prior to putting it in the fridge, as this can encourage bacterial rot.
Cabbage: Cabbage can be stored in the refrigerator in the produce drawer for up to 4 to 5 months.
Cauliflower: As with broccoli, store cauliflower in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator. Do not wash it prior to storage; it should keep for 2 to 3 weeks.
*Radishes: Radishes keep well in cold conditions. Store in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a month.
*Beets: Check out our tips for storing beets in a root cellar.
*Carrots
*Parsnips
*Rutabagas
*Turnips
*Root vegetables: In the fridge, small quantities of root crops can be stored in a perforated plastic bag, where they will keep 2 to 3 weeks. Large amounts are best stored in a root cellar or another cool, dark, humid place. Brush the roots clean of any clinging garden soil. If tops are still attached, twist or cut them off 1/2 to 1 inch above the roots. Bury the roots in buckets of sand. Add a layer of slightly damp sand to either polyethylene bags with breathing holes or to the bottom of plastic containers such as 5-gallon plastic buckets. Then, add a layer of carrots and more sand to the container. Storage temperatures should be just above freezing.
Vegetables That Should Not Be Stored in the Refrigerator
Onions, Shallots, and Garlic: NEVER put onions, shallots, or garlic in the refrigerator. They are susceptible to cold damage at temperatures below 40°F, which means that they are best stored outside of the fridge. If possible, keep them in a cool part of the kitchen, pantry, or mudroom. It’s best to store them in mesh bags (which they often come in) to provide ventilation. If you can’t do this, put them in a bowl in your pantry. You may cover them with a bag, but make sure there are plenty of ventilation holes. Once cut open, these bulbs can be stored in the refrigerator in a small container or baggie. It’s fine to store scallions and green onions in the refrigerator. Note: Do not store onions near potatoes! They are not friends. Potatoes excrete moisture and speed up onion decay.
Potatoes: Never refrigerate potatoes—it will turn their starch to sugar. Brush off any clinging soil, and store in a dark, cool place such as a pantry or basement. Put in a basket or paper bag. Potatoes like it a bit warmer than other root crops, so store them higher up. NOTE: Don’t store potatoes with onions or apples; these crops give off ethylene gas that will spoil the potatoes.  See how to store potatoes in a root cellar.
Pumpkins and Winter Squash (Butternut, Acorn): Winter squashes don’t like to be quite as cool, nor as humid, as root crops do. Store squash in a place with a temperature of about 50° to 65°F.  Below 50°F, they are subject to chilling damage. Above 65°F, they become stringy.  If you have a cool-ish bedroom, stashing them under the bed works well! Watch this video on how to cure and store pumpkins.
Tomatoes: NEVER refrigerate fresh tomatoes if you want to keep that fresh-off-the-vine taste. Cherry tomatoes are the only variety that tends to stand up to time in the fridge without turning mushy or mealy too quickly. Leave tomatoes out on a counter (not in the sun). They can be put in the fridge once you cut into them, but their flavor will change.
Vegetables That Simply Need a Cool Spot
Some vegetables are better left in a cool spot in the kitchen and out of the refrigerator, though they won’t be ruined.
Cucumbers: Cucumbers can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days, but will keep for longer in a cool spot in the kitchen. Keep them in a perforated plastic bag for 7 to 10 days
Eggplant: Eggplant stores best outside of the refrigerator in a cool part of the kitchen. Under cold conditions, it may develop brown spots after more than a few days. Keep it in a perforated plastic bag for adequate humidity. Eggplant will keep for 7 to 10 days.
Summer Squash (Zucchini): Zucchini and other summer squashes may be stored in the refrigerator for a few days. Store them in a cool part of the kitchen in a perforated plastic bag for longer than that. They should keep for 10 to 14 days.
Peppers: Bell peppers can be stored in perforated produce bags in a cool part of the kitchen. They will keep for 10 to 14 days. Store hot peppers the old-fashioned way: by threading them onto a string and hanging them until dry. Peppers need good air circulation and should not be touching each other to dry properly.
Fruit to Keep in the Refrigerator
Let’s make this simple. Most fruit goes in the fridge. Sure, it can last on the counter for a few days, but it will last in the fridge for weeks without losing its texture and taste. Also, you can keep fruit unwrapped so it can breathe, with the exception of berries.
1. Apples   
Apples must go in a fruit drawer or crisper drawer in the fridge. Wrap in a damp paper towel to increase humidity because apples don’t like it dry. They ripen about four times faster at 50°F than at 32°F and become overripe very quickly at 70°F.
For long-term storage (up to 6 months), the traditional way to store apples is in a cool, dark place such as a root cellar at a temperature between freezing and 45°F. If you don’t have a root cellar, a double cardboard box in a cool mudroom or cellar can approximate the conditions. Remember to give apples an occasional change of air.
2. Berries (Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Blueberries)   
Never rinse berries before storage. It washes off the thin, protective epidermal layer. Berries are highly perishable and don’t store for long.
If you must store them, place them on a paper towel in a tightly covered container and store them in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. Wash right before eating.
If you’d like to store them for longer, learn how to make berry jam or how to freeze berries.
3. Citrus (Oranges, Grapefruit, Lemons, Limes)   
Sure, lemons and limes look pretty in a bowl. However, all citrus is best stored in the fridge—period. Not convinced? Leave a lemon or lime out on the counter at room temperature and you’ll get a dried-out fruit. In a fridge, lemons and limes will last up to four times longer! Put in a perforated bag or the produce drawer.
4. Grapes   
Grapes will keep for 2 to 3 weeks when kept in a perforated plastic bag (like the kind they’re typically bought in) in the refrigerator.
5. Pears   
Unripe pears can be kept in the refrigerator for a few days. In order to let them ripen and develop a better flavor and texture, move them out of the fridge a few days before you plan to eat them. Keep them in a paper bag or perforated plastic bag on the counter.
6. Melons   
Generally speaking, melons can be kept outside of the fridge if they have not yet been cut into. Once they’ve been sliced, store them in the refrigerator.
Muskmelons (Cantaloupe, Honeydew): Muskmelons can be stored whole in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks. Wash them before storage to clean off any debris or bacteria, but let their rind dry before moving them to the fridge. Outside of the refrigerator, they can be kept in a cool part of the kitchen for a week or so.
Watermelons: Watermelons can be kept at room temperature for about a week. If possible, store them in temps between 50° and 60°F, extending their shelf life by another week or two. Once you’ve cut into the melon, store it in the refrigerator.
7. Stone Fruit (Peaches, Cherries, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums)   
Store stone fruit in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator. In cold, humid conditions, they’ll keep for 1 to 2 weeks. Be sure to check for blemishes or soft spots regularly, as moisture can lead to rot.
Fruit to Keep Out of the Refrigerator: The Short List
Bananas
Avocados
Pineapples
Tropical Fruit
There are really just a handful of fruits that don’t go in the fridge. Bananas and most tropical fruit do not keep their true flavor or texture when chilled. If possible, store bananas, avocados, and pineapples outside the fridge at room temperature.   
Notes:
Bananas can cause nearby fruit to ripen more quickly, so you may or may not want the same fruit basket to have bananas and avocados!
Once tropical fruit is cut open, store in fridge in a container or baggie.
HERBS: How to Store Fresh Herbs
Most fresh herbs go bad in the refrigerator quickly. Ever noticed how the leaves of basil or parsley turn brown?     
Leafy herbs (including cilantro, mint, parsley, and dill) are best kept with their stems immersed in a glass of cool water, like a bouquet of fresh flowers, then tented with a plastic bag. They’ll keep for about 2 weeks. Trim the ends and change the water every couple of days. Just harvest (pinch) leaves as you need them! This encourages more growth.
Woody herbs (rosemary, thyme, chives, sage, oregano) can be stored in a fridge, loosely wrapped in a damp paper towel.
Most other herbs (and greens) will keep for short periods unwashed and refrigerated in tightly sealed plastic bags with just enough moisture to prevent wilting. For longer storage, use moisture– and gas–permeable paper and cellophane. Plastic cuts off oxygen to the plants and promotes spoilage.
Herbs can also be dried, frozen, preserved in vinegar, oils, and pesto (which should be kept refrigerated or frozen). Or, make yourself this herb butter, which stores and freezes well. To use up your leftovers, try out our favorite recipes using herbs.
Dried herbs and spices should be stored in a cool, dry place, not above the stove or right next to the burners, where heat and steam will cause them to lose flavor.
5 Tips for Storing Vegetables and Fruit
The refrigerator keeps food cold; however, it also has a drying effect. So, the first way to keep produce longer is to put vegetables in containers or a crisper drawer to increase relative humidity.
However, fruit is different. With the exception of berries, which do better in a plastic container, fruit needs to breathe and doesn’t actually need to be in a container.
Finally, wait to wash your produce before use. Never store veggies or fruit when wet. Remove the leaves of root vegetables when storing vegetables together.
Rhubarb, petite peas, sweet corn, and diagonally sliced or French-cut green beans are easy to blanch and freeze, and still taste great when thawed.
Cucumbers, beets, cranberries, tomatoes, and virtually all fruit (especially peaches) are well-suited to canning, and their subsequent taste tends to be worth the added trouble. As folksinger Greg Brown put it, “Taste a little of the summer … Grandma’s put it all in jars.”
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-store-vegetables-and-fruit-keep-it-fresh
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365 beckysgreenhouse.com, facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image fromburyhilltopsoil.andlog.co.uk

      ​Just came in from outside this morning.  Boy is it humid out.  Very tropical I am thinking.  Windows are all foggy.  It is going to be a nasty day to work outside.  We got rain last night, as I was checking if I needed water.  I don’t have to as we had almost ½” of rain.  We might get rain tonight again, if not I will water the plants in the morning.  They are predicting to cool down tomorrow. So hopefully I can work out in the planting area to get more containers planted.  Yes, I am planting, and I am making a fall garden.  Heat advisory today from noon to 8:00.  Heat index values around 105 expected.  High temperatures and high humidity may cause heat illnesses.  Drink plenty of fluids, stay in an air-conditioned room, stay out of the sun and check up on relatives and neighbors.  Stay cool, and please stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for their July 24, Thursday is going to be the complete opposite partly cloudy conditions expected around 2 AM, wind gusts up to 16 MPH are making the temperature feel like 39F( 3C). Today they will be 55F(13C).  So, for them stay warm, and stay safe. 
 
I have been hearing about this mushroom compost this season.  I found this article about it.  Have you heard of it?  Are you using it?  Let me know what you think of it. 
 
What Is Mushroom Compost and How To Use It  by Lauren Landers
Mushroom compost is a fungi-tastic soil booster made from the leftovers of mushroom farming. It’s loaded with nutrients and can help improve soil structure and pH—but it’s not a match for every plant. Dig into this guide to learn the ups and downs, how to spread the goodness, and which plants thrive (or dive) in mushroom compost.
This natural mulch is becoming increasingly popular for growing ornamentals and edible crops. Below, you’ll find a basic rundown of the pros and cons of using mushroom compost, tips for sourcing and applying it, and a list of plants that you should and shouldn’t grow in mushroom compost.
What is Mushroom Compost?
Also known as spent mushroom compost (SMC) or spent mushroom substrate (SMS), mushroom compost is a byproduct left over from the edible mushroom industry. But it doesn’t contain any mushrooms!
Instead, mushroom compost is actually the leftover substrate that’s used to grow mushrooms and it’s usually made from aged chicken or horse manure and/or composted straw, which has been heat-treated, sterilized, and amended with added limestone and sphagnum moss to help mushrooms grow better. However, once large-scale mushroom harvests are completed, all that leftover substrate can go to waste if it’s not repurposed into mushroom compost.
Spent mushroom compost is typically sold in bags or in bulk at garden centers or from soil suppliers. Dark, rich, and earthy, mushroom compost looks a lot like standard compost and it has a similar use. However, mushroom compost differs from standard compost in a few important ways, which can affect how it’s used in the garden and the types of plants you apply it to.
How is Mushroom Compost Different?
If you’ve ever used compost or aged manure in your garden, you should have no problem working with mushroom compost. Mushroom compost has many similarities to both compost and livestock manure, but it has a few differences that make it totally unique too!
Mushroom Compost vs Regular Compost
Standard compost and mushroom compost have a similar look and feel, and they can both contain manure or composted plant material, like rotted straw. These two amendments are filled with nutrients that help plants grow better, and they can improve soil structure and drainage as well. However, mushroom compost has a higher salt content and an alkaline pH, which can be more useful for balancing acidic soil, but less suitable for alkaline gardens and plants that aren’t salt tolerant.
Mushroom Compost vs Cow Manure
Like compost, cow manure also contains nutrients that plants need, and it can be used to improve soil structure. But fresh cow manure contains a high concentration of nitrogen that can burn plants if it’s not aged or composted before application. Mushroom compost generally does not need further composting, and it can be applied to gardens as-is. But mushroom compost contains less nitrogen than cow manure, which can make it more suitable for growing fruiting or flowering plants, but less efficient at boosting the growth of leafy greens.
Mushroom compost packs extra calcium power—helping keep your tomatoes blossom end rot-free and happy! Credit: Mila Makhova
Mushroom Compost Benefits and Drawbacks
The major difference between mushroom compost and other soil conditioners is that mushroom growers mix limestone and a few other additives into mushroom substrates to improve the growth of mushrooms. This added limestone makes mushroom compost more alkaline and calcium-rich than standard compost, which can benefit certain plants. However, mushroom compost isn’t suitable for every garden!
Pros:  Cons:
Filled with nutrients that plants need, like potassium, phosphorous, calcium, and magnesium.           
Contains relatively high levels of salt that may be unsuitable for some plants.
Typically has an alkaline pH that can balance acidic soils and reduce plant diseases like clubroot.       May make neutral or alkaline soils overly alkaline.
Easy to use, versatile, and budget-friendly if purchased in bulk. Can be difficult to source.
Can reduce weeds and improve soil drainage and water retention in sandy or heavy clay soils.   May cause drainage problems if not mixed with soil or other amendments.
Calcium content may prevent issues like blossom end rot.           Not suitable for acid-loving plants.
Why Should You Use Mushroom Compost?
Whether or not you use mushroom compost is a matter of personal choice, but it can be a smart decision for certain gardens. For starters, mushroom compost is budget-friendly when purchased in bulk. But it’s also easy to apply, and can be used as weed-suppressing mulch or soil conditioner to fix a number of gardening woes!
Whether you have heavy clay or overly sandy soil, mushroom compost can help aerate dense beds and improve drainage and water retention. However, where mushroom compost really shines is in gardens with nutrient-poor and overly acidic soil. In these spaces, mushroom compost helps to balance pH issues so that plants can absorb nutrients more readily, and it enriches garden beds with organic matter.
How To Use Mushroom Compost In Your Garden
The best time to apply mushroom compost is either before planting a single plant, or in spring or summer when plants do most of their growing. You can apply mushroom compost in autumn and winter too. However, applying this product when plants aren’t actively growing can lead to some nutrient loss and make mushroom compost a little less effective.
Depending on your gardening goals, you can use mushroom compost in a few different ways. But first, you’ll want to pick out and discard any large pieces of limestone that you find in the compost to reduce some of the compost’s alkalinity. If the compost was gathered fresh from mushroom growers, you may also want to set it aside to rest or cure for a few weeks in an out-of-the-way corner of your garden. However, this isn’t necessary if you purchased bagged compost or bulk deliveries from landscaping companies.
If you’re starting a new garden, you can use mushroom compost to enrich your beds or correct soil issues by applying a 2-inch layer of compost and then working it into the top few inches of soil. If you grow plants in containers, you can also use mushroom compost to enrich potting mixes by blending about 1 part mushroom compost with 3 parts potting soil.
If you already have vegetables, fruit, or flowering plants growing in your garden, you can still apply mushroom compost either as a soil conditioner or natural mulch. Spread 2 inches of mushroom compost over your beds or around the base of your plants. You can either work the compost into the soil with a shovel or rake or leave it as-is and allow earthworms and rainfall to do the mixing for you. Just be sure to keep the mushroom compost at least 1 to 2 inches away from plant stems, as applying mulch or compost directly against plant tissue can cause rot.
Precautions And Considerations
Although mushroom compost has a number of perks, it’s not a standalone growing medium and needs to be mixed with soil or another substrate before use. Growing plants in unmixed mushroom compost can lead to poor root development, drainage issues, and other problems.
Due to its higher-than-average salt content, mushroom compost is not ideal for starting seeds or seedlings and should be used in moderation in containers. If you’re growing an organic garden, take note that mushroom compost isn’t always approved for organic gardening. However, if you ask around and do your research, you can likely track down mushroom compost from organic mushroom growers that’s safe to use in organic gardens!
Plants That Don’t Like Mushroom Compost
Mushroom compost is beneficial to many plants, including calcium-loving nightshades, as well as roses, petunias, and dahlias. It can also be particularly beneficial to brassica vegetables that may develop clubroot in overly acidic soils. That said, mushroom compost isn’t ideal for every garden, and you may want to avoid using it if you’re growing the following plants.
Highly salt-sensitive plants, like:
Some orchids
Ferns
Acid-loving plants, like:
Rhododendrons
Azaleas
Blueberries
Heaths and heathers
Citrus
Camellias
Some hydrangeas
Some fruiting plants, like currants, raspberries, and cranberries
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/what-mushroom-compost-and-how-use-it
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from the Old Farmer's Alamanc 

      Good morning, and the summer weather is back.  It’s warm, humid already and it is just 7:00 AM.  It is cloudy outside which will help it to be not so hot.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends, Wed July 23 clear, wind gusts up to 16 MPH high of 64F(17C) stay warm, stay safe. 
 
We are going to have a hot, humid week.  I found this article about the summer of 1936, give it a read and hope we don’t have this.  Stay cool, stay safe 

Wild Weather Anniversary: Record-Breaking Summer by Martha White
Decades ago, a blistering heat wave hit the Eastern Seaboard. We may complain of the heat now, but the record-breaking summer of 1936 certainly puts the weather into perspective!
The 1936 Heat Wave
Even on the “cool” eastern seaboard in July of 1936, it was the heat wave that made the news. In midcoast Maine, where only the hardiest swim, all-wool bathing trunks were advertised for a dollar (or 3 dollars for those with detachable tops). In Boston, the price of cream skyrocketed as the combination of the drought in the Midwest and the hot weather in the East made for a “very short cream market.” Wholesale prices rose from $11 for a 40-quart can of cream in 1935 to $17.28 a can in July of 1936.
Central Park in New York City hit 106°F on July 9. The next day, Waterbury, Connecticut, saw 103°F, while many other New England towns hit over 100°F. Those who could left the steaming asphalt of the cities. Others stood under sprinklers or slept on roofs.
 In New York City, Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia declared public beaches open all night for the duration, promising not to arrest anyone. City swimming pools lengthened their hours.
Nearly 1,000 deaths nationwide—76 in New York City—were attributed to the 10-day heat wave, some from heat stroke or lung ailments, others from accidental drownings as nonswimmers desperately attempted to cool off.
Canadian towns and cities also felt the severity of the sun. Ontario alone marked over 500 deaths from the heat.
Dust Bowl Heat
In the vast Dust Bowl region that spread from North Dakota southward into Texas, with its heart over Kansas and Oklahoma, black-dust blizzards had been common since about 1932. The heat wave of 1936 that broke all records in 15 states during July and August was the final blow to many midwestern farmers who had fought against economic hardship and unparalleled heat and drought.
The 1936 heat gave new energy to the smothering dust storms that blackened skies. Trains missed their scheduled stops because they couldn’t see the towns as they passed through them. Doors and windows had to be sealed with adhesive tape to keep out the dust. Dishes had to be washed after a meal and again before the next one because dust had sifted into cupboards. Ceilings collapsed from the weight of dust that had collected in attics. Seeded crops blew out of the soil, and white chickens were dyed the color of dust. Dust storms like these still occur in different parts of the world today.
The chief of the Iowa Weather and Crop Bureau called July 1936 the hottest July in 117 years (although the single-day high had been reached in July 1934, at 118°F). On July 14, 1936, Iowa reported readings of more than 108°F at 113 separate weather stations.
Kansas City, Missouri, saw temperatures of over 100°F on 53 days that summer. Parts of Kansas and North Dakota soared to 121°F; South Dakota, Arkansas, Texas, and Oklahoma saw 120°F. Indiana, Louisiana, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Nebraska, New Jersey, West Virginia, and Wisconsin also hit their record highs in July or August of 1936.
Fortunately, humor increased with the heat and drought.
According to The Dust Bowl (Brookfield, CT: Millbrook Press, 1993), one tall tale described a midwestern man so overwhelmed by a single drop of rain that he had to be revived by dumping a pail of dust over his head.
The New York Times reported that a Syracuse housewife successfully fried an egg on the sidewalk.
And in New York, a man left his dentures on the windowsill, only to return an hour later to find them melted. Now, that’s hot.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/summer-heat-wave-1936
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  beckysgreenhouse.com, Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse 

image from trees.com 

      WOW 21st of July.  Summer is going so quickly. Today is cloudy, and cool at 70’s.  BUT it will change tomorrow and terrible on Wed.  I better work outside this morning while it is nice outside.  Setting up an area so I can plant outside and not in the greenhouse.  YES, still planting.  How is your gardening coming?  It is time to reap the harvest of what you have planted in the vegetable garden.  Enjoy what you have planted for flowers and blooms.  Stay safe, and enjoy today.
 
Australia family and friends for Tuesday July 22, cloudy conditions with wind gust up to 16mph. 75% chance of rain with high today of 64(17c). Stay warm, stay dry, stay safe.
 
Herb Fest is this Sunday at Greene city park starting at 10:00-3.  I will be there.  I have many kinds of herbs, perennials, houseplants, and annuals I will be bringing.   I thought it was an idea if you want to start an herb garden here is how to do it. 
 
How to Start an Herb Garden: A Beginner’s Step-by-Step Guide
Why Grow Your Own Herbs? Save Money, Add Flavor, and Enjoy Gardening!  By Lauren Landers
Love cooking with herbs but hate paying grocery store prices? Here’s a thyme-tested solution: grow your own! Starting an herb garden is easy and beginner-friendly and a great way to bring fresh flavor right to your kitchen. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll show you how to choose, plant, and care for herbs—whether you’ve got a backyard bed or just a sunny windowsill.
Although growing your own herbs can feel a bit intimidating at first, herbs are generally easier to keep and less demanding than most vegetables; they’re small, space-friendly, and can even be grown indoors year-round. If you dream of harvesting your basil for pesto-making or mint for loose-leaf teas, this step-by-step guide will teach you everything you need to know to design, plant, and grow your very first herb garden!
Which Herbs Should You Grow? Start with What You Love to Eat!
Before you can start planting your herb garden, you’ll need to select the types of herbs you want to grow. This should be primarily based on the herbs you actually cook with the most and the herbs you like eating. After all, there’s no point in growing herbs that you don’t like the taste of!
Once you’ve made a list of the herbs you purchase the most at the grocery store, do a bit of research to make sure these herbs can grow in the light levels and amount of space you have available in your garden. For example, sage plants grow large and are best suited for roomy herb gardens, but chives and parsley grow well in pots, and cilantro and dill tolerate lower light levels than most other herbs.
Annual herbs such as dill, basil, cilantro, and summer savory are easy to grow from seed. The plants last for one season only, so grow plenty of extra to dry or freeze for use over the winter. Once you get used to their flavors, you won’t want to cook without them.
Biennial herbs such as parsley and caraway can be started from seed also. They will grow well the first year and come back the second year, when they will bloom and set seeds. Then, the original plants will die.
Perennial herbs include Greek oregano, thyme, sage, winter savory, chives, and mint. Once established in your garden, these plants will increase in size and come back every year.
 Tender perennial plants such as tarragon, rosemary, and stevia need to be grown in pots so they can spend the winter indoors. Put the pots outside as soon as the weather warms in the spring.
Where (and How) to Grow Herbs: Beds, Pots, or Kitchen Windowsills?
After narrowing down the types of herbs you want to grow, it’s time to consider how you want to grow and tend your herb garden. If you have ample space, you can potentially create a dedicated herb bed in a raised or in-ground garden. However, if you’re gardening in a small area or indoors, you can also grow most herbs in well-draining terracotta, ceramic, or plastic pots that are at least 8 to 12 inches wide.
Standard potting mixes intended for veggies are suitable for most herb plants. Still, you may want to amend the potting mix with a bit of sand before planting lavender and other Mediterranean herbs that prefer drier conditions. If you’re growing herbs in in-ground or raised beds, blend a bit of compost or aged manure into your soil before planting to give your herbs a little boost.
While you’re at it, take some time to do a bit of garden planning and sketch out the layout of your garden before you starting planting. Since most herbs grow best in full sun, you can maximize light exposure by locating taller plants towards the back or north side of your garden and shorter herbs towards the front or south. Planting herbs that prefer drier conditions on one side of your garden and moisture-loving herbs on the other side can make watering a lot easier, too!
Close-up of hands planting basil in a clay pot with soil
Planting a little basil, growing a lot of joy. Credit: Robert Kneschke
Planting Herbs: Seeds, Starts, or Cuttings?
Gardeners have a few options when it comes to planting herbs. You can either grow herbs from seed, from potted plants, or cuttings taken from healthy herb plants, or fresh herb stems from the grocery store!
Growing herbs from seed tends to take the most time and is best-suited for fast-growing, tender-stemmed herbs like parsley or cilantro. These herbs are typically planted either indoors or directly in the garden or pots in spring, and may be succession-sown every few weeks thereafter for an extended harvest. If you start herb plants indoors, you can transplant them outside once the risk of frost has passed.
Growing herbs from nursery starts can be a little pricier, but it will allow you to harvest herbs earlier, and it’s the easiest way to grow woody-stemmed herbs, like lavender and rosemary. When it’s time to plant, dig a planting hole that’s as deep as your plant’s root ball. Amend the excavated soil with compost if desired. Then, locate the plant in the hole at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot, and fill the hole with the amended soil.
Growing herbs from cuttings doesn’t work well for all herbs, but it can be a great way to repurpose freshly cut herbs from the grocery store and grow a few plants on a budget. Tender-stemmed herbs are usually easiest to propagate in water, while woody-stemmed herbs tend to root best in soil with a touch of rooting hormone. After planting, keep the cuttings well-watered and in bright, indirect light until they root, and then treat them just like nursery-started plants.
 Caring for Herbs: Light, Water, and a Little Love
Herbs are generally resistant to most pests, and they don’t need as much attention as your average veggie plant. However, even low-maintenance herbs need a little TLC and the right growing conditions to thrive!
Sunlight
The majority of herbs are full-sun plants that require at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. The exception to this rule is some tender-stemmed herbs, like dill and cilantro, which actually do better and are less likely to bolt in partial sun locations. If you’re growing herbs indoors, locate your plants in the sunniest window you can find, or supplement their lighting with an LED grow light.
Watering
Herbs with tender stems require more water and should be provided with approximately 1 inch of water per week. Woody-stemmed herbs prefer slightly drier conditions, but they still should be watered when the top 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Keep in mind that potted herbs dry out faster than plants in in-ground gardens and may need to be watered daily in summer!
Fertilizing
Compared to vegetables, herbs are light-feeding plants that often don’t need much supplemental fertilizer. To keep herbs looking lush, just amend your soil with compost before planting and then feed your plants with a monthly dose of diluted liquid organic fertilizer from spring through early fall.
Overwintering
Succession sowing dill and cilantro can extend your harvest window, allowing you to gather fresh herbs for a little longer. However, these plants are true annuals, and they won’t survive the winter no matter how you tend them.
Perennial herbs, on the other hand, can potentially grow for years. But they may need a bit of help weathering the winter!Cold-hardy perennial herbs, such as oregano, will typically thrive outdoors, even in areas with cold winters. Just layer some mulch over their roots in fall and stop harvesting or pruning their stems a few weeks before frost is expected.
Heat-loving perennial herbs like rosemary only grow perennially in warm climates and are often treated like annuals in cooler areas. However, you can grow these plants for years if you move them indoors in winter.
Woman cutting rosemary herb branches by scissors,
Snipping sprigs of rosemary—because flavor this fresh is worth the trim. Credit: Artfully
When and How to Harvest Herbs Properly
Herbs can be harvested little by little as needed for recipes, or they can be harvested in larger quantities for freezing or drying. But it’s important to never harvest more than 1/3 of an herb plant at once, as overharvesting can damage or even kill your plants.
To harvest, cut stems off at a leaf node, avoiding the woody sections of Mediterranean herbs, such as lavender. Cutting these plants back too far can cause them to stop growing.
After harvesting, you can keep herbs fresh in the fridge for a few days by storing their cut stems in a glass of water or wrapping them in a damp paper towel in a Ziplock bag. For longer storage, you can also dry herbs via hang-drying or with a food dehydrator and store them in your spice cabinet. Or you can freeze them, whole or chopped, in ice cube trays filled with oil or water!
Yellow Leaves? Bolting Basil? Here’s What’s Really Going On
As with any plant, herbs can sometimes struggle with pests or other issues. But your plants are much more likely to recover if you take action at the first signs of trouble. Here are a few common issues you may encounter when growing herbs, along with simple solutions to help your plants thrive.
Pests
Although pests usually leave herbs alone, spider mites, aphids, thrips, and other destructive insects will sometimes feed on herb plants. This is more common in indoor herbs and plants that are stressed by environmental factors and can often be avoided by providing your plants with the right balance of light, water, and care. If pests do occur, treat your plants with a weekly application of organic soap spray until the pests have vanished. Here are 5 homemade solutions to deter pests.
Root Rot
Overwatering herbs or growing plants in poorly draining soil can lead to root rot and plant death. If you catch root rot early, you can often reverse it by watering your plants less and, potentially, repotting them. However, if root rot has progressed, the best way to salvage your plants is through stem propagation.
Yellowing Leaves
Herb leaves may turn yellow if your plants don’t receive enough light or fertilizer, or if they’re overwatered. Assessing your plant’s growing conditions will help you determine what your plant needs to recover.
Slowed Growth
Low light, insufficient fertilizer and water, or cool temperatures can cause herb growth to slow. Herbs may also grow slowly if they’re kept in undersized pots.
Flowering
Flowering isn’t necessarily a bad thing, and allowing herbs to flower can attract more pollinators and beneficial insects to your garden. However, some herbs won’t taste as good or continue to grow after they bloom. Pinching flowers back can keep your herbs growing a bit longer, but cool-season herbs like dill will inevitably bolt when summer hits.
With the right light, care, and a little patience, an herb garden can reward you with fresh flavor all season long. Still got questions? We’ve got answers!
Tips to Growing Herbs
Herbs are forgiving plants and will grow in less-than-ideal conditions.
Drainage is the most important thing to consider since many herbs do not like wet feet.
The soil does not have to be overly fertile. In fact, if herbs are over-fertilized, they tend to be less flavorful.
Most herbs grow best with at least six hours of sun a day.
When planting, give the perennial herbs room to grow. It may look a little bare at first, but they will expand to fill the space. Crowded plants compete with each other for nutrients and water and can be difficult to harvest. Air circulation is important for healthy growth, especially during humid weather.
Herbs respond well to regular pruning, and when you clip them often, you’ll be encouraging fresh new growth.
The season for bumper crops of fresh produce is approaching fast! Be ready by growing the herbs necessary to flavor your world and spice up your life!
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I grow herbs indoors?
A: Yes! Many herbs do well on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light. Choose compact herbs like thyme, basil, or chives for indoor success.
Q: Do herbs need full sun to grow?
A: Most herbs prefer 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. However, cilantro, parsley, and dill tolerate partial shade and cooler spots.
Q: How often should I water herbs?
A: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Potted herbs may need daily watering in summer, while woody herbs like rosemary need less frequent watering.
Q: How do I keep my herbs from bolting?
A: Keep herbs like basil, cilantro, and dill well-watered and pinch off flowers early. Grow cool-season herbs in spring and fall to avoid heat stress.
 Q: Can herbs survive the winter?
A: Annual herbs won’t survive frost, but some perennials like oregano or thyme can with mulch. Tender herbs like rosemary need to come indoors in cold climates.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-start-herb-garden-beginners-step-step-guide
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected] 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Becky’s Greenhouse.com Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse
 

image from ar.inspriedpencil.com 

      Good afternoon on Friday.  It was awesome out this morning, cool and humidity was down.  I worked out in the greenhouse and the blacktop all morning, as noon came you could feel the humidity coming in.  Temperature 71F(21C) cloudy skies which has helped with it being pleasant outside.  I am working on my flower garden displays.  I have the back of the blacktop that I fill up with pots and color. Moved the fruit trees behind them so it gives some height to the display.  I must get the wagons emptied and then you can see it when you drive by. Next week’s project, go through each wagon, decide to do if I keep the plant for me to plant, keep the plant for the gardener to plant this fall or compost it.  Stay cool, enjoy yourself and stay safe.

Australia family and friends for their Saturday July 19 low of 33F(1C) but the high is 58F(15C) cloudy conditions.  For them this is going to be a cool start to their day.  Stay warm, stay safe

I have a few cannas for sale.  I will use them in containers when I get to them on the wagons.  They are blooming red/yellow.  Here is how to take care of them.  Do you have some plants in your garden?  What I found interesting is that they need to be planted when the soil temperature is 60F. They don’t like cold at all.   One of these plants that you need to be patient with before planting.

Big, Bold, and Beautiful: How to Grow and Care for Canna Lilies By Catherine Boeckmann
Looking to add bold, tropical flair to your garden? Canna lilies are your go-to showstoppers! With their vibrant blooms and towering leaves, these heat-loving beauties are surprisingly easy to grow, even if your garden isn’t in the tropics. Whether you’re planting in borders, containers, or around water features, cannas deliver drama all summer long. Learn how to plant and grow cannas—plus, get instructions for deadheading, cutting back, and overwintering.
About Cannas
Cannas (Canna Indica) are unrelated to true lilies, even though they’re commonly called “canna lilies.” This flowering perennial plant is related to bananas and ginger! This may not be surprising when you consider their huge paddle-shaped leaves in those gorgeous red, orange, and bronze colors.
They may look tropical, but several canna species are native to the United States. The flowers are somewhat similar to an iris in shape. Their huge leaves wrap in ruffles around stems, tapering to refined buds that open into large, rainbow-hued flowers all summer long, even in intense heat.
Though often called “bulbs,” cannas are not true bulbs as they multiply beneath the soil from a rhizome, an underground stem.
Also known as Indian shot, canna is a sun-loving tropical or subtropical herbaceous perennial hardy in Zones 7-10. They’ll grow up to 8 feet tall in one season.
Cannas can be both focal points and stylish accents. Use them to bring structure as a tall border or to add depth to narrow spaces. They add a colorful splash to garden orders and poolside plantings, bring a tropical touch to water features, and thrive in boggy areas (NOT salt water). Mix cannas with grasses, lantana, zinnias, snapdragons, elephant ears, salvia, periwinkles, and more.
Note: Canna plants can be left outside in the ground all winter in Zones 7 to 10. They will also grow equally well in large containers dragged inside during the dormant period. In colder climates, cannas are easy to lift and store during cooler months. (Learn more below.)
Planting
Cannas need full sun for good flowering and consistently moist soil with a pH of around 6.0–6.5. Add lime before planting if your garden soil is acidic (low pH). Position plants away from strong wind; their large, soft leaves are vulnerable to damage.
When to Plant Cannas
Cannas can not tolerate cold temperatures. The soil must be 60ºF or warmer before planting rhizomes—often the time when folks put tomatoes in the ground. See our Planting Calendar for tomato-planting dates. Dig a small hole 2 inches deep and insert a thermometer to determine soil temps.
In cold, short-season areas, start canna rhizomes in pots indoors or in a greenhouse, ready to transplant outdoors at the right time.
How to Plant Cannas
Space rhizomes 1-1/2 to 2 feet apart to give cannas enough room. Containers need to be at least 18 inches in diameter (per rhizome).
Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 1 foot, then mix in 2 to 4 inches of compost.
Dig a hole 2 inches deep and set the rhizome 1 to 2 inches below the soil with the “eyes” (bumps or nodes, which are growth sprouts) pointed up.
Cover with 1 to 2 inches of soil. Tamp firmly.
Water thoroughly, then withhold water for as long as three weeks and watch for signs of growth. Cannas are slow to sprout. Once sprouted, water at least once a week by slowly soaking the area around the roots.
Full foliage color develops when days are warmer (59ºF or more). Blooms should appear in 10 to 12 weeks.
Cannas should not need to be staked as they have strong, upright stems.
Growing
Cannas need wet soil. If the soil doesn’t remain moist, provide a good soaking once a week and every other day during the hottest weeks of summer—water freely in dry spells.
Maintain a thin layer of mulch to help retain moisture.
Stake tall varieties, if necessary.
Where the soil is fertile, fertilizer is optional. However, canna are big eaters and would benefit from slow-release fertilizer at planting and twice during the growing season. Fish emulsion fertilizer, which is a little higher in nitrogen, is a beneficial organic alternative. Higher nitrogen fertilizers tend to increase canna height. Rose or tomato food products are also suitable.
Deadheading Cannas
To promote blooming, check your canna every few days to deadhead (i.e., remove spent flowers)
When deadheading, use small garden pruners or scissors. Do not pinch with your fingers.
Canna stems grow several flowers on a single stem. Snip off only the spent flower where it joins the main stem, leaving the other spikes to continue to bloom.  
Once all the flowers on a single canna spike have bloomed, you may cut that part of the stem back, but avoid cutting off any new budding spikes.
Cutting Back and Pruning Cannas
After the entire plant has been deadheaded several times and with flowers no longer forthcoming, cut the flower stem back to the foliage.
Only at the end of the growing season should you cut the plant—down to around 6 inches off the ground.
 If the plant looks “trashy” or the leaves get sunburnt, however, you can simply trim off the brown edges (like a haircut) or trim off any dead leaves at the bottom near the stem.
Be careful not to nick the main stem. If the stem is damaged, cut it back to the ground.
You may see seed pods on your canna!  These seed pods will make more cannas, so you can clip them off and put them right in the soil of your cannas; it may take a few years to get going, but you’ll have more cannas in the future.
How to Store Cannas for Winter
In Zones 7/8 and warmer, cannas can be left in the ground year-round. After frost kills the foliage, cut in-ground plants back to 4 inches. Add a healthy layer of straw or leaf mulch in the fall to protect rhizomes from the cold as the plants overwinter in place. (Note: Zone 7 doesn’t always experience canna-killing winter temperatures, so it’s a judgment call.)
Bring cannas grown in pots indoors into a garage or basement for winter. Keep them dry (do not water) until spring’s nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F., typically after the tulips have bloomed in northern areas. Only then move them outside for the summer.
In Zones 6 or colder, it is necessary to dig up (lift) in-ground cannas in the fall and bring them inside for the winter. After cutting the canna back (as above), dig out the rhizome with a shovel. Avoid damaging the rhizome by digging about 1 foot away from the stem. With your hands, gently loosen the soil and lift out the clump. Shake off the soil and cut off any foliage. Divide clumps into 3 to 5 rhizomes, each with eyes.
Cure the rhizomes in the sun or in a garage or closet for a few days to toughen them up and help them resist rot. Wrap each rhizome in a newspaper or a paper bag, along with a small amount of dry growing medium, such as peat moss, to absorb moisture and prevent rot. Rhizomes should not touch each other.
Store cannas over the winter in a dry place where the temperature will not drop below 40ºF. Often, this is a basement, attic, or garage. Check the rhizomes a couple of times over the winter to make sure that they don’t dry out. Mist with a bit of water, as needed. If you find rot, trip it away or discard the entire rhizome.
When spring’s nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F, replant outdoors. Make sure each divided piece has at least one eye; from it, new leaves will grow. Blooms should appear in 10 to 12 weeks.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/cannas
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckys greenhouse.com, Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse