One way of relaxing working with plants under the tree.  Enjoyed the day.

       Wow the end of JULY...and I started doing this blog in Feb. In counting I have been writing this blog for 182 days.  I know I have missed a couple but only a couple of days.  That is more than 1/2 of year, and the numbers that are looking at the blog each day is growing.  So thanks to all of you that are reading and sharing what I write.  I have been writing since the beginning of this venture of the greenhouse.  I went to a marketing class in 1985 and they said to be diversified.  So I like plants and I knew a grower that worked at the Rockwell/Swaledale schools so I started buying annuals from them.  Also at the time of the marketing class, with us in the corner of 4 counties, Butler, Cerro Gordo (which we are in), Floyd and Franklin with having 5 school systems coming out of Dougherty the best way would be direct mailing.  So that was the start of newsletters.  I send them out to the area and to my gardeners.  Some of you will remember getting them in the mail, but when it total over 1000 and with the printing cost and mailing cost it lead me to do other things.  I was on the radio so went to do that more.  In all what I am saying I have been writing about gardening for a long time with the newsletter and the weekly radio show Gardening and YOU...
      I did take my advice from yesterday and sat in my garden.  Totally enjoyed the day.  So did all my little kittens as they were sleeping and playing around me all day.  I worked on the air plants, trying a new way of displaying them and in part getting ready for bringing them inside for the fall.  Pam did have the second day of the flea market so did have gardeners stop down and look.  So that was fun, because I could visit with them and it was in a relaxing area.  UNDER the trees by the house is our new place for Becky's Greenhouse during this time of the year.  So annuals went out, perennials, and succulents plus some hanging baskets that look really good. I even took a little cat nap( pardon the pun) in my chair.  In looking at the list of how to relax in the garden, I did 3 of them.  So that was good.  Humidity is coming back and also the heat, so next week for a few days will not be working in the afternoon outside, but will work in the morning on gardening things.
     I had a question yesterday about why her air plant has changed color from being red tips to just the green.  I reminded her that the air plants need at least 6 hours of sunlight.  They need the light from the sun when they are in the house, from a window.  Air plants are from the tropical and even though they live under the canopy of the trees, the light is very intense in a rain forest.  I am moving the airplants outside to more sunlight and not under the complete shade of our trees.  Last year, I left them in the greenhouse and then it was too hot for them.  Always something to learn, and do differently if the plants are not happy.  If they are happy, then they will grow and be like they were made to be.  Don't be afraid to try something different...that is what gardening is all about.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa 

Pictures of hardy hibiscus pictures and plants by Marianne Folkerts

          I was sent some pictures of hibiscus so today I am going to talk about the ones that grow here in Iowa over our winters which are called hardy hibiscus.  Plant taxonomy classifies the hardy hibiscus plants with which I deal in this article as Hibiscus moscheutos. They also go by such common names as "rose mallows" and "swamp mallows." But I prefer the more descriptive nicknames "hardy hibiscus" and "dinner-plate hibiscus," for these names tell you that H. moscheutos is quite cold hardy despite bearing large blooms that remind one of the tropics. Although hardy hibiscus plants are woody in summer and function as sub-shrubs in the landscape, their stems do die back to the ground in winter, making them herbaceous perennials, technically.  This means the plant grows back from the roots and not on old growth. 
      The most popular hardy hibiscus cultivars reach about 2 1/2 feet in height, with a spread slightly less than that, but the measurement more folks concentrate on is the bloom size -- up to 10 inches for 'Galaxy,' for example. The species plant is indigenous to eastern North America. H. moscheutos cultivars can be grown in planting zones 4-9. Grow hardy hibiscus plants in full sun and in an average-to-wet soil.
       If you are not planting hardy hibiscus plants in a wet spot, then make sure they are adequately watered. Because the blossoms are so large -- yet so ephemeral -- deadheading is recommended after blooming, for aesthetic purposes. If the spent flowers are allowed to remain, they can look quite messy, detracting from the display value of your specimen.  Since this perennial does die back to ground level in winter, feel free to prune it down to the ground in fall. As alive as the branches may seem in fall, trust me, they will die in winter. It is what lies under the earth (that is, the root system) that will live on. New branches will spring out of the ground the following year from this root system.  Now what I do is keep the branches during the winter, so you have a knowledge where the plants is because the plant needs warm nights like in June to start to grow.  It is one of the plants we need to be patient about in the spring for growing.  But these specimens are slow to push new shoots out of the ground in spring, a fact that is capable of causing great fear on the part of new gardeners. One's initial reaction, upon witnessing their tardiness for the first time, is, "Oh no, the cold temperatures of the winter must have killed off my plant." But exercise a little patience before you write off this perennial and begin planning to replace it with something else. By June in my zone-5 garden, the new shoots finally make an appearance.
         Hardy hibiscus plants essentially function as late summer flowering shrubs (even though they are classified botanically as perennials). They will typically bloom in late July or early August in northern climates. I know when we go to the State Fair their hibiscus's are all in bloom and look awesome. This feature makes them valuable specimen plants in landscaping plans that strive for spring-to-fall color, since fewer flowering shrubs bloom at this time than at other times during the growing season.  This is what I am talking about in your perennial bed to have plants that bloom early spring, spring, late spring, early summer, late summer and fall for the continuous of blooms all summer long.  As you know, perennials blooms don't last all season long. 
       I always have plants here in the spring, but right now sold out of them at the Franklin Co. Fair.  You should put this on your list for next spring, as it is an easy plant to grow and gives color in the summer when other plants are done blooming.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

          I know this next article is something we all don't like to do in the gardens but it is a chore that has to be done.  I found this article about 6 ways to help with it....it is weeding of course.  Read more: http://www.finegardening.com/six-tips-effective-weed-control#ixzz4Fc0HlSwJ
 
Six Tips for Effective Weed Control
Proven methods for controlling weeds in your garden
by Barbara Pleasant
        If you were to track every hour spent in your garden, you would probably find that you do an inordinate amount of weeding. And while the first few weeks of tearing up these intruders can prove mildly satisfying, the chore soon wears thin. Even more maddening—you are just six simple strategies away from your garden not needing weeds anymore.  What’s that? A garden needs weeds? Weeds are nature’s healing remedy for sites that are in a wounded, plantless state, but weeds and gardeners have different ideas of what makes for a good recovery. Armed with a better understanding of weeds and the strategies outlined here, you can win every future skirmish, giving you more time to enjoy your well-groomed garden.
 
1. Let sleeping weeds lie  Kill weeds at their roots but leave the soil—and dormant weed seeds—largely undisturbed.  Every square inch of your garden contains weed seeds, but only those in the top inch or two of soil get enough light to trigger germination. Digging and cultivating brings hidden weed seeds to the surface, so assume weed seeds are there ready to erupt, like ants from an upset anthill, every time you open a patch of ground. Dig only when you need to and immediately salve the disturbed spot with plants or mulch.  In lawns, minimize soil disturbance by using a sharp knife with a narrow blade to slice through the roots of dandelions and other lawn weeds to sever their feed source rather than digging them out. Keep in mind that weed seeds can remain dormant for a long, long time.
2. Mulch, mulch, mulch  Don’t give weeds the chance to see the light. Whether you choose wood chips, bark nuggets, straw, or even pine needles, keep the mulch coming to smother out weeds. Mulch benefits plants by keeping the soil cool and moist and depriving weeds of light. Organic mulches, in particular, can actually host crickets and carabid beetles, which seek out and devour thousands of weed seeds.  Some light passes through chunky mulches, and often you will discover—too late—that the mulch you used was laced with weed seeds. It’s important to replenish the mulch as needed to keep it about 2 inches deep (more than 3 inches deep can deprive soil of oxygen). In any case, you can set weeds way back by covering the soil’s surface with a light-blocking sheet of cardboard, newspaper, or biode­gradable fabric and then spreading prettier mulch over it.  If you choose to use this method on seldom-dug areas, such as the root zones of shrubs and trees, opt for tough landscape fabric for the light-blocking bottom sheet. There is a catch, however: As soon as enough organic matter accumulates on the landscape fabric, weed seeds dropped by birds or carried in on the wind will start to grow. For the bottom layer of fabric to be effective, these must be pulled before they sink their roots through and into the ground.
 
Monday: Kill weeds. Tuesday: Kill weeds...
 
If you’re a new gardener—or you’re working in a wild and weedy space—the first season will likely be a rough one. Commit (and stick) to a weeding schedule, and don’t take on more space than you can manage. If you have more weeds than you can handle, keep weedy areas mowed until you’re ready to conquer them.
3. Weed when the weeding’s good Young weeds go down much easier than older ones, so make the most of good weeding conditions.  As the old saying “Pull when wet; hoe when dry” is wise advice when facing down weeds. After a drenching rain, stage a rewarding weeding session by equipping yourself with gloves, a sitting pad, and a trug or tarp for collecting the corpses. As you head out the door, slip an old table fork into your back pocket because there’s nothing better for twisting out tendrils of henbit or chickweed. When going after bigger thugs, use a fishtail weeder to pry up taprooted weeds, like dandelion or dock.   Under dry conditions, weeds sliced off just below the soil line promptly shrivel up and die, especially if your hoe has a sharp edge. In mulched beds, use an old steak knife to sever weeds from their roots, then patch any open spaces left in the mulch.
 
4. Lop off their heads  Chopping off weed heads feels good and you’ll reap short- and long-term benefits.  When you can’t remove weeds, the next best thing is to chop off their heads. With annual weeds, dead­heading buys you a few weeks of time before the weed “seed rain” begins. Cutting back the tops of perennial weeds, like bindweed, reduces reseeding and forces them to use up food reserves and exhaust their supply of root buds, thus limiting their spread.  You will need pruning loppers to take down towers of ragweed or poke, or you can step up to a string trimmer equipped with a blade attachment to cut prickly thistles or brambles down to nubs. No matter which method you choose, chopping down weeds before they go to seed will help keep them from spreading.
 
5. Mind the gaps between plants  Tightly planted beds leave no room for unwanted visitors.  Close plant spacing chokes out emerging weeds by shading the soil between plants. You can prevent weed-friendly gaps from the get-go by designing with mass plantings or in drifts of closely spaced plants rather than with polka dots of widely scattered ones. You can usually shave off about 25 percent from the recommended spacing. Most spacing recommendations, however, are based on the assumption that adjoining plants will barely touch when they reach mature size, so stick with the guidelines when working with plants that are prone to foliar diseases, such as bee balms (Monarda didyma  and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 4–9) and phloxes (Phlox paniculata  and cvs., Zones 4–8).
 
6. Water the plants you want, not the weeds you’ve got  Drip irrigation is the way to go for a quick way to water your plants and not your weeds. Watering by hand works, too, but it’s often tedious.
Hope this helps, I found some ideas I am going to try.  I have these 2 flower beds out front of the house, and the plan was before I read this was to plant, plant and plant perennials I know will not come back if they are kept over in the greenhouse.   Also the plan to mulch.  In the past we have mulched too thick but 2" is a good rule of thumb.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa 

     Summer produce is coming on, and one of them are the cucumbers.  So what do you fix with fresh garden cucumbers?  I enjoy eating it all with all the fresh garden produce we are having.  I went on Allrecipes.com for ideas for cucumbers dishes and this is what I came up with. 
How many of you fix cucumbers this way?  I so remember mom making this is the summer. 
Mom's Cucumbers taken from http://allrecipes.com/recipe/13996/moms-cucumbers/?internalSource=search%20result&referringContentType=search%20results&clickId=cardslot%2012
Recipe By:Karen
"Tasty marinated cucumbers. Ideal for a fresh side salad."
 
Ingredients
3 large cucumbers
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup white sugar
1/8 cup water
 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1/4 cup chopped onion
 
Directions
1 Peel the cucumbers and slice wafer thin. Sprinkle with salt. Let stand 30 minutes, then squeeze cucumbers to release moisture.
2 In a medium size bowl mix sugar, water, vinegar, celery seed, and onion. Add cucumbers to mixture. Mix well. Refrigerate 1 hour
Share your favorite cucumber dishes love to see what you all make with those fresh cucumbers from the garden.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

Dark Chocolate Sun Coleus needs to have the seed heads taken off

Rule of thumb for removing seed heads along with dead heading, pinch off to the first set of leaves. 

Finish pot of coleus ready to be fool to grow more with out the seed heads on the plants.

           Here is a picture of my coleus in some of my containers.  I am such a believer in cutting off this flower stem, but have found very little information on it.  I remember I took off the flower stem on a coleus that a customer was buying and she got so upset because that is why she bought the plant because of the flower.  As I have always said, the flower must come off because all the energy of the plant will be going into making a seed for it survival, that is why the plant gets lanky as the energy goes into the seed making to survive.   So we have to fool the plant, and take off the part that is forming seeds.  You will see the before picture, picture of me taking off the flower, and then a picture of how it looks after wards.  I have many pots I need to do this to, but with the lower humidity and temperature it will be enjoyable to do.
Here is what I found out a short article from  http://www.hortmag.com/weekly-tips/pinch-back-coleus-for-optimal-growth
       Cutting back coleus will actually produce more of it, making the plant take on a bushier shape quite quickly. The flowers are often pinched from coleus plants so the leaves aren’t downplayed, but doing so also makes this  tender perennial (often grown as a summer annual in cold climates) fuller by keeping the height under control and creating the opportunity for more leaves to grow.
      To pinch back your coleus, simply cut or pinch off any stem at a point where two stems or two leaves are growing from it. Two new branches will begin to grow from where those other stems or leaves meet the main stem that you pinched.
       You can also pinch just under the coleus’s flower buds if you don’t want the plant’s energy to be spent on producing flowers and seeds. (When this happens, the leaves lose beauty and vigor.) Around midsummer, coleus should be pruned regardless of whether it will be allowed to flower. If it’s not maintained, it could overgrow and branches can snap from their weight.  Hope this gives you some idea what to do with your coleus.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa

Early blight on tomatoes

            In doing some reading about what the humidity does to our plants, I found this article about early blight.  Tomato growers are not going to like to read this because humidity does lead to early blight, and there are some measures to take as the article says.  Let us hope that this week, it will drop in humidity and makes working outside more enjoyable.
    Taken from    http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/early-blight/
     Early Blight What is early blight?  Early blight is one of two common fungal diseases that can devastate tomatoes in both commercial settings and home gardens.  Early blight can also be a serious disease on other popular vegetables including eggplants, peppers, and potatoes.  The second common tomato blight, Septoria leaf spot, is detailed in University of Wisconsin Garden Facts XHT1073. 
      What does early blight look like?  Symptoms of early blight first appear at the base of affected plants, where roughly circular brown spots appear on leaves and stems.  As these spots enlarge, concentric rings appear giving the areas a target-like appearance.  Often spots have a yellow halo.  Eventually multiple spots on a single leaf will merge, leading to extensive destruction of leaf tissue.  Early blight can lead to total defoliation of lower leaves and even the death of an infected plant. 
     Where does early blight come from?  Early blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, which survives in plant debris or on infected plants.  Early blight symptoms typically begin as plant canopies start to close.  Denser foliage leads to high humidity and longer periods of leaf wetness that favor the disease. 
       How do I save a plant with early blight?  Once symptoms of early blight appear, control is difficult.  Thinning of whole plants or removal of selected branches from individual plants may slow the disease by increasing airflow and thus reducing humidity and the length of time that leaves remain wet.  Fungicides labeled for use on vegetables and containing copper or chlorothalonil may also provide control of early blight if they are carefully applied very early in the course of the disease (before symptoms develop is best) and on a regular basis throughout the rest of the growing season.  If you decide to use fungicides for disease control, be sure to read and follow all label instructions of the fungicide that you select to ensure that you use the product in the safest and most effective manner possible. 
      How do I avoid problems with early blight in the future?  Early blight is best controlled using preventative measures.  Destroy infested plants by burning or burying them.  Rotate vegetables to different parts of your garden each year to avoid areas where infested debris (and thus spores of Alternaria solani) may be present.  Use early blight-resistant vegetable varieties whenever possible.  Increase spacing between plants to increase airflow and decrease humidity and foliage drying time. I TELL GARDENERS MY ARMSPREAD IS WHAT I WANT SPACE BETWEEN THE TOMATOES SO THAT IS LIKE 44 TO 5 FEET.   Mulch your garden with approximately one inch of a high quality mulch, but DO NOT over mulch as this can lead to wet soils that can contribute to increased humidity.  Finally, where the disease has been a chronic problem, use of preventative applications of a copper or chlorothalonil-containing fungicide labeled for use on vegetables may be warranted.  Hope this helps...till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa

Blossom end rot on a tomato

    Question asked I am having trouble with my tomatoes.  I have noticed brown spots near the base of the fruit.  They start out small but continue to increase in size.  What is this disease and how can I get rid of it?
 
A.  Well, if it is any consolation, you are not alone.  We have been getting several calls from folks that appear to have the same tomato malady as you.  The culprit is Blossom-end rot (BER), and is actually a physiological disorder, not a disease.  It is easily identified as a brown, leathery rot developing on or near the blossom-end of the fruit.  It starts with a dry brown, dime-sized lesion, generally increasing in diameter as the condition worsens.  In time lesions, often become covered with a black mold.
 Taken from http://faq.gardenweb.com/discussions/2766766/what-is-blossom-end-rot-how-can-i-prevent-itBlossom-end rot is a disorder of tomato, squash, pepper, and all other fruiting vegetables. You notice that a dry sunken decay has developed on the blossom end (opposite the stem) of many fruit, especially the first fruit of the season. This is not a pest, parasite or disease process but is a physiological problem caused by a low level of calcium in the fruit itself.
Symptoms
BER, or blossom-end rot usually begins as a small "water-soaked looking" area at the blossom end of the fruit while still green. As the lesion develops, it enlarges, becomes sunken and turns tan to dark brown to black and leathery. In severe cases, it may completely cover the lower half of the fruit, becoming flat or concave, often resulting in complete destruction of the infected fruit.
Cause
Calcium is required in relatively large concentrations for normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is deprived of calcium, the tissues break down, leaving the characteristic lesion at the blossom end. Blossom-end rot develops when the fruit's demand for calcium exceeds the supply in the soil. This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, drought stress, excessive soil moisture, and/or fluctuations due to rain or overwatering . These conditions reduce the uptake and movement of calcium into the plant, or rapid, vegetative growth due to excessive nitrogen fertilization.
Management
Adequate preparation of the garden bed prior to planting is the key to preventing BER. Insure adequately draining soil in the bed by adding needed amendments, maintain the soil pH around 6.5 - a pH out of this range limits the uptake of calcium. Lime (unless the soil is already alkaline), composted manures or bone meal will supply calcium but take time to work so must be applied prior to planting. Excess ammonial types of nitrogen in the soil can reduce calcium uptake as can a depleted level of phosphorus. After planting, avoid deep cultivation that can damage the plant roots, use mulch to help stabilize soil moisture levels and help avoid drought stress, avoid overwatering as plants generally need about one inch of moisture per week from rain or irrigation for proper growth and development.

Once the problem develops, quick fixes are difficult. Stabilize the moisture level as much as possible, feeding with manure or compost tea is recommended by many, foliar applications of calcium are of questionable value according to research because of poor absorption and movement to fruit where it is needed but many have reported that foliar application of magnesium (epsom salts) can effect added calcium uptake. Other various suggestions consist of powdered milk, crushed egg shells tea, bone meal tea, Tums tablets, etc. but prevention is the key. Some recommend removing affected fruit from to reduce stress in the plant.
BER should not be confused with fruit abortion or inadequate pollination although the symptoms may appear similar. The onset of BER occurs only after the fruit is well on it's way to development while insufficient pollination problems terminate the fruit while still quite small.  Hope this helps....till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

If you know me, Pooh one of my favorite gardeners. 

      With the hot, humid weather we are having heat index above 100 I was wondering what it will do to our plants.  Here is an article I found, which makes common sense level but also some food for thought.  I am going out now to water everything to see if I can keep it growing and maintaining.  We have the racks under the trees so that will help a lot.  We have the racks off that hot black top, I want to keep them looking well because this will not last forever and some gardeners will need plants to fill in areas and I want to help them with that.  Taken from http://www.plantanswers.com/garden_column/june03/4.htm
How Hot Weather Effects Plants
       Hot, dry summers are rough on plants, especially on non-native plants and those weak from improper care. Since many of our landscape plants aren't naturally adapted to heat, they need special attention and care.  High temperatures speed up the normal living process of plants to a maximum rate at and above 90 degrees F. This means that most plants can take temperatures up to 90 degrees F. fairly well. Anything above that—the hotter it gets, the more they suffer! Of course, less tolerant or weaker plants suffer even more. The longer high temperatures persist, the greater the injury to the plant.
       Hot soils also hamper plant growth. Shallow-rooted and container plants are particularly affected by soil heat build-up. Deeper-growing roots penetrate to a level of better soil temperatures and moisture. Mulching the soil surfaces around plants and watering properly is a good idea to stabilize soil temperatures. The most obvious symptom of a plant’s heat exposure and hot soils is persistent afternoon wilting, followed by foliage burn.
      Hot air, particularly hot, dry wind, causes too much moisture loss from the plant's foliage. Some evaporation from leaves is normal, but when vital moisture is being evaporated faster than the plant's ability to replace it, leaves dry out and wilt. To be drought-tolerant, plants must have roots able to absorb as much, or more, moisture from the soil and do it as fast, or faster, than the foliage loses it. First symptoms of hot air injury are drying and browning at the tips and edges of older leaves. Then, tender new tip growth wilts, soon followed by dieback. Rapid moisture loss can cause tender leaves to turn black. Evaporation cools foliage, but if it doesn't get water from the roots fast enough to provide the evaporative cooling effect, the foliage gets hot, tender growth wilts and older leaves sunburn.
      Exposure to the intense sunlight of bright, cloudless, summer days can be too much for sensitive plants. Reflected light from walls and other surfaces can also add to the problem. Stunted plant growth and a yellow-white "burn" on the upper surface of older leaves are familiar symptoms of too much intense sunlight. A good covering of leaves protects the tender bark of branches and stems from sunburn. If this shading is lost, or pruned off, the exposed tender bark will likely sunburn.
       When some nutrients are reduced or limited, or their uptake inhibited, deficiency symptoms quickly appear. Such is the case with iron during hot weather growth. Wet soils, dry soils, not watering deep enough, salty or caliche soils, etc. will decrease the amount of iron plants can absorb from the soil. The yellow foliage symptoms of iron chlorosis appear as greenish-yellow leaves with dark veins. As iron deficiency becomes troublesome, the green color of leaves turns to yellow, then to white and finally brown as the tissue dies.
      Plant location is very important. Shaded locations cut summer stress for heat- and sunlight-sensitive plants. Eastern exposures or open areas are generally preferred for blooming plants. Southern or western exposures are subject to direct, intense sunlight, as well as reflected heat. Because walled areas of these hot exposures build up and hold additional heat, only very heat tolerant plants can survive in these locations. Also, consider draft and wind exposure when positioning plants whose foliage may be particularly subject to burn by hot, drying air movement.
      "How long and how often to water" depends upon how long the soil retains moisture and how fast that moisture is being used. A proper balance of moisture and air in the soil is necessary for roots to breathe and do their job. Irrigate to maintain favorable, not abundant soil moisture. Water long enough during each irrigation to allow moisture to penetrate completely through the plant rooting area, but no more often than necessary to prevent foliage wilt! Following this rule, and you'll automatically adjust to the age and type of plant as well as to the differences in seasonal requirements. Deep, penetrating irrigations each time also keep soil salts washed downward out of the root area. A drip irrigation system is THE MOST effective, efficient method of watering.
         Fertilizing during hot weather should be done with caution, if at all. Increased living processes of plants during hot weather use up nutrient reserves faster. However, rapid uptake of fertilizers by summer-active roots could result in fertilizer burn. Increase the fertilization frequency, but decrease the amount applied each time. Fall fertilization helps plants recover from summer exhaustion. Spring fertilization encourages strong growth to better withstand summer stress.   Food for thought or should I say water for thought...till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa
 

     So I thought I didn't know about the heat index maybe you don't either.  Here is what I found.  I just know I don't like it over 100 degrees.  I will complain about this...feeling bad for the county fairs that are on now with this heat and humidity.  It does take some of the fun out of the event that is for sure.  As I have a friend keep telling me, drink, drink, drink and drink more water.
Taken from National Weather Service site at http://www.srh.noaa.gov/ama/?n=heatindex
 
What is the heat index?
     "It's not the heat, it's the humidity".  That's a partly valid phrase you may have heard in the summer, but it's actually both.  The heat index, also known as the apparent temperature, is what the temperature feels like to the human body when relative humidity is combined with the air temperature.  This has important considerations for the human body's comfort.  When the body gets too hot, it begins to perspire or sweat to cool itself off.  If the perspiration is not able to evaporate, the body cannot regulate its temperature.  Evaporation is a cooling process.  When perspiration is evaporated off the body, it effectively reduces the body's temperature.  When the atmospheric moisture content (i.e. relative humidity) is high, the rate of perspiration from the body decreases.  In other words, the human body feels warmer in humid conditions.  The opposite is true when the relative humidity decreases because the rate of perspiration increases.  The body actually feels cooler in arid conditions.  There is direct relationship between the air temperature and relative humidity and the heat index, meaning as the air temperature and relative humidity increase (decrease), the heat index increases (decreases).
      In order to determine the heat index using the chart above, you need to know the air temperature and the relative humidity.  For example, if the air temperature is 100°F and the relative humidity is 55%, the heat index will be 124°F.  When the relative humidity is low, the apparent temperature can actually be lower than the air temperature.  For example, if the air temperature is 100°F and the relative humidity is 15%, the heat index is 96°F (use this calculator).  In the Panhandles, we commonly see hot temperatures during the summer, but the low relative humidity values make it somewhat unusual to see dangerous heat index values (i.e. 103°F or greater).  A full heat index chart for a larger range of temperatures and relative humidity values can be found at this link.
      It surprises many people to learn that the heat index values in the chart above are for shady locations.  If you are exposed to direct sunlight, the heat index value can be increased by up to 15°F.  As shown in the table below, heat indices meeting or exceeding 103°F can lead to dangerous heat disorders with prolonged exposure and/or physical activity in the heat.
Classification
Heat Index
Effect on the body

Caution
80°F - 90°F
Fatigue possible with prolonged exposure and/or physical activity

Extreme Caution
90°F - 103°F
Heat stroke, heat cramps, or heat exhaustion possible with prolonged exposure and/or physical activity

Danger
103°F - 124°F
Heat cramps or heat exhaustion likely, and heat stroke possible with prolonged exposure and/or physical activity

Extreme Danger
125°F or higher
Heat stroke highly likely
Stay cool, drink water and hopefully this will pass.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty

          I know green beans are setting on in your garden, so what do I talk about with the green beans?  I came up with this article on the different ways of preparing the green beans. It might just give you some ideas of different ways to fix them.  This came from
http://www.bhg.com/recipes/how-to/cook-with-fruits-and-vegetables/how-to-cook-green-beans/#page=0
 
Start with 12 ounces fresh green beans. Wash beans and remove ends and strings. Leave beans whole, or cut them into 1-inch pieces (makes 2-1/2 cups), or slice them lengthwise for French-cut beans.
How to Cook Green Beans on the Stove
Cook green beans, covered, in a small amount of boiling salted water until crisp-tender:
- 10 to 15 minutes for whole or cut green beans
- 5 to 10 minutes for French-cut green beans
How to Cook Green Beans in the Microwave
Place green beans in a casserole dish with 2 tablespoons water. Microwave, covered, on 100 percent power (high) until crisp-tender, stirring once:
 - 8 to 12 minutes for whole or cut green beans
- 7 to 10 minutes for French-cut green beans
How to Steam Green Beans
In a steamer cook whole, cut, or French-cut green beans, covered, for 18 to 22 minutes or until crisp-tender.
How to Saute Green Beans
Step 1: Blanch green beans
Bring a large saucepan of water to boiling. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the green beans. Cook beans for 3 to 4 minutes or until crisp-tender. Drain beans and immediately plunge them into ice water. Let the beans sit in ice water for 3 minutes or until cool. Drain well and set aside.
Step 2: Saute green beans
In a large skillet heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add beans. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes or until heated through. Season with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and black pepper. Remove from heat.
So how do you fix green beans?  Include hints and recipes that would be great.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa