image from blogspot.com

​     So are you having any trouble with your vine plants?  Such as the leaves are yellowing, wllting and holes are appearing.  It could be cucumber beetles.  Here are some suggestions on what to do.  GOOD LUCK…Larry just moved out my big, big pots that I will use for the vegetables.  So this next week, I will be planting my vegetables in them.  I know you are saying it is late.  But we will see what happens with them.  No extra time to do it, and now I have more space on the blacktop for them so watering is easier. 
WHAT ARE CUCUMBER BEETLES?
If you find that the stems of your seedlings are being eaten off, leaves are yellowing and wilting, and holes are appearing, you may have a striped or spotted cucumber beetle problem. Striped cucumber beetles are specialists on cucurbits (such as cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, watermelons) while spotted cucumber beetles feed on other plants in addition to cucurbits.
Often, the beetles leave their hibernating sites early in the season (mid-April to early June), and feed on seedlings right as they are emerging, usually killing them. Then their larvae feed on the roots of the host plants. As they grow into adults (mid-July to September), the beetles will once again feed on the leaves, vines, and fruit of plants that survive, leaving deep marks in the rind.
Cucumber beetles hold another threat too: They can spread bacterial diseases and viruses from plant to plant, such as bacterial wilt or mosaic virus.
IDENTIFICATION
HOW TO IDENTIFY CUCUMBER BEETLES
Adult striped cucumber beetles are about ¼ inch long and have a yellow-and-black–striped abdomen and a dark-colored head and antennae. Spotted cucumber beetles are the same length but have 12 black spots on a yellow abdomen. The larvae are worm-like, white, dark-headed, and have three pairs of legs on the thorax.
IDENTIFYING CUCUMBER BEETLE DAMAGE
While cucumber beetle larvae feed on cucurbit roots, adult feeding is more damaging to the crop. Adults feed on leaves and can stunt plant growth. Look for holes and yellowing and wilting leaves.
Feeding on flowers can reduce fruit production, and direct feeding on fruits causes unattractive scars an pock marks on the fruit, too.
Often, the cucumber beetles alone will not kill the plants or cause major damage, but the spread of disease will. Feeding by adult cucumber beetles can spread bacterial wilt disease among cucurbit plants, even when population density of the insect is low.
Adult cucumber beetles overwinter in weeds, garden debris, and woody areas. The diseases they carry can also overwinter internally and can be passed onto plants the next spring through fecal matter.
 
CONTROL AND PREVENTION
HOW TO GET RID OF CUCUMBER BEETLES
Inspect newly planted cucurbit plants for the presence of this beetle; be watchful when plants are seedlings.
Use yellow sticky traps to catch cucumber beetles and other pests.
Knock beetles to the ground and catch them with a piece of cardboard placed under the plant. Or, use a handheld vacuum to suck up the beetles. They are very hard to hand pick, but it is easier to hand pick them with yellow gloves coated in petroleum jelly.
Cover seedlings with row covers, though you must remove during blossoming time several hours each day to allow for pollination.
Few insecticides can be used on cucurbit plants because they are very sensitive. They would need to be used when plants are just beginning to emerge through the soil. Please contact your local cooperative extension for a list of approved insecticides for your area.
Folk advice from The 1963 Old Farmer’s Almanac states that nasturtiums and wood ashes are effective against cucumber beetles.
HOW TO PREVENT CUCUMBER BEETLES
If you till your garden in the late fall, you will expose cucumber beetles hiding there to harsh winter conditions and reduce their populations next year. Remove all debris after fall harvest to reduce overwintering habitat.
Rotate crops so cucurbit crops are not planted directly into soils containing overwintering populations.
Transplanting young plants rather than direct seeding can protect vulnerable seedlings from damage.
Planting trap crops (cucurbit varieties highly attractive to cucumber beetles) at the perimeter of the harvested crop can keep cucumber beetles from migrating into the harvested crop.
Where cucumber beetles are a problem, let the beetles come out of hiding and plant late. They have a knack for finding vulnerable seedlings. When yours are up and growing, the cucumber beetles will be gone, fooled into thinking you don’t have any cucumbers in your garden.
Natural predators include beneficial insects like braconid wasps, some nematodes, and soldier beetles.
Companion planting your vegetables with flowers can help to keep pests away from the plants you don’t want the beetles to attack.
Once bacterial disease has entered the plant, there’s very little that you can do. If it’s bacterial wilt, you’ll see the leaves dry up and the plant will quickly wilt and die. Take prevention for next year, as described above.
PLANTS AFFECTED
Cucumbers
Squash (Zucchini)
Pumpkins
Green Beans
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/pest/cucumber-beetles
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

image from 1929charmer.com

      ​     This was asked last week why my clematis leaves are turning brown?   Do not like the answer as there isn’t an easy fix.  Have any of you had this on your clematis?  Let us know what you did.
Why Do My Clematis Leaves Turn Brown?  By Erica Roth
Clematis is a flowering vine that grows vigorously. Flower shape, color and growth rate of the vine vary by species. Clematis is ornamental but is often used for practical purposes; when encouraged to creep up a trellis, the plant can shade your home during the summer. Brown leaves on a clematis plant can indicate several different problems, all of which can be resolved with a little detective work and proper care.
Heat
The hot sun may cause clematis leaves to turn brown, usually in the height of the summer heat. Rest assured that your clematis is not necessarily dying, but is suffering from a case of sunburn, so to speak. If possible, move the vine to a new location that gets less direct sun. Make the transfer before new growth appears, to avoid disturbing the natural blooming season. Continue to water the clematis as needed to combat the heat. Clematis requires at least an inch of water weekly from irrigation or natural precipitation.
 
Spider Mites
A spider mite infestation can cause browning on the leaves of the clematis. The discoloration is usually a gradual process, with the leaves turning pale tan, then a deeper brown color before dropping off the plant. Spider mites are tiny pests that suck the sap of the leaves, causing them to die. Spider mites lay eggs on the leaves of the clematis; new mites hatch during the next growing season. A forceful stream of water may be enough to dislodge the mites. Pesticides may be required for moderate to severe infestations.
Wilt
Clematis wilt is a fungal disease that can affect the entire plant. The stem rots, leading to a physical collapse of the vine. Following collapse, the stem and leaves turn brown or black in color and die. Clematis wilt appears suddenly, literally overnight in some cases. The plant will look healthy one day and sick the next. Remove the affected areas of the clematis and wait until the next year to determine if the plant will come back. If healthy buds exist under the ground, it's likely that the clematis will grow anew in the spring.
Prevention
Spraying the clematis with fungicides and pesticides may prevent browning of the leaves due to insect pests and fungal disease. Preventive chemical control is not always foolproof; newly planted vines are more susceptible to clematis wilt than established plants. Large-flowering clematis also carry a higher risk of clematis wilt.
Taken from https://www.ehow.com/info_8036520_do-clematis-leaves-turn-brown.html
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@neitns.net

Grandson Dylan

Granddaughter Leah

Grandsons Corbin, Brayden

Granddaughter Abby

​Happy Anniversary to my husband Larry.  I could not have done all  without you.  Thanks for all you do.  Becky
The devotional for today from the Power of Being Thankful, Joyce Meyer
Let peace lead the way.
Luke 6:31 Do to others as you would have them do to you.
     The Bible teaches that God will lead us by the presence of peace.  Thankfully, peace is the umpire in our lives that lets us know if we are in God’s will and out of it.  You will not experience peace if God is leading in one direction and you are pulling in another; you will feel frustrated and conflicted. 
     God will not force you to do what is right, but He will show you what to do if you seek Him and ask for His guidance.  Then He will leave the choice to you.  IF you make right choices, you will reap good results that will cause you to be extremely grateful.
     If you really want change in your life, take the step to follow God even if doing so is difficult for you.  Be led by peace and trust that His plan for your life is better than you can even imagine. 
In prayer I ask.  Lord, thank you for my spouse and for their unique gifts and abilities.  Help me to appreciate them and focus on their strengths.  Today, I choose to be a blessing and let You take care of everything else.  In your name we pray AMEN
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from blogspot.com

      ​I am so fortunate to have lots of these plants on the wagons and racks that the butterflies are around and getting what they need “nectar” from the plants.  Story to tell.  45 years ago, tomorrow June 28th, Larry and I got married and you know what we had on our wedding cake.  Butterflies . So they were important from the beginning for me.  Butterflies were on the wedding invitation too.  Butterflies are very important in our environment so more plants we can have for them the better.  What do you have in your garden that the butterflies enjoy?  Let us know.  Enjoy the sunshine and the summer like weather.
Gardening for Butterflies
By Alice Yarborough gardens and writes from her home in Carnation, Washington. This article was adapted from Butterfly Gardens, (Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Brooklyn, NY, 1995; $8
Gardening for butterflies is a suspenseful art, a bit like holding a picnic and wondering if your invited guests will show up. It is because butterflies are choosy insects. Any gardener can have aphids, but red admirals, painted ladies and tiger swallowtails insist upon certain amenities, such as sunshine and shelter from wind.
To butterflies, the plants in a garden are more important than the design. They need flowers for nectar throughout the growing season. Luckily, many common annuals and perennials are top-notch nectar flowers. While native American species play an important role as host plants for hungry butterfly caterpillars, most adult butterflies have cosmopolitan tastes, supping as readily on the nectar-filled flowers of exotic plants as natives.
Butterflies seem especially attracted to gardens boasting generous patches of a given nectar flower. If you plant Jupiter's-beard (Centranthus ruber), don't settle for one or two plants. Try growing three or more patches of this especially popular nectar flower and watch the swallowtails drift from clump to clump.
What's in My Garden
Because I love old-fashioned cottage gardens, my garden is filled with informal groups of plants of varied heights, including many low growers spilling forth onto the garden's gravel paths.
Grape hyacinths, Pulmonaria, rock cress, azaleas, lilacs, wallflowers and pinks furnish nectar in early and mid-spring. From late spring on through autumn, many butterfly plants bloom. Primula vialii, the June-blooming orchid primrose, is thickly interplanted with tall forget-me-nots. I use perennial alpine pinks, biennial sweet William, and self-sowing annual candytuft to edge beds of Jupiter's-beard and June-blooming yarrows (Achillea) such as pale yellow 'Taygetea' and 'Moonshine'. I planted tall perennial phlox and purple coneflowers behind the Jupiter's-beard to provide color and nectar in July and August.
Joe-pye weed (Eupatorium purpureum) dominates one end of the garden. It waves its butterfly-laden flower heads for weeks in late summer. In front of it are patches of red bee balm (Monarda) and the tall hybrid yarrow, 'Coronation Gold'. A large drift of purple-flowered anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), completes the picture. Although the garden hosts a variety of nectar flowers, the butterflies concentrate when anise hyssop and Joe-pye weed bloom. Edging this bed are clumps of golden marjoram, oregano, rosy-flowered ice plant (Hylotelephium spectabile 'Carmen'), and the little Mexican daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus).
In September and October, purple hardy asters, backed with golden sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) and 'Taiyo' sunflowers, create a dazzling picture.
In arid regions use drought-tolerant butterfly flowers. Asters (Aster novi-belgii), butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Coreopsis, fleabane (Erigeron), Jupiter's-beard, Lantana, lavender, Sedum, verbena, and yarrow all thrive on dry, sunny sites.
Make mud Puddles
If your garden has a low, damp area, plant moisture lovers like the rosy-flowered swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Joe-pye weed, forget-me-nots, bee balm, and meadow sweet (Filipendula palmata). Create a shallow puddle to attract swallowtails, blues, sulfurs and other butterflies that enjoy drinking at mud puddles. (They do so to obtain needed salts in their diet.) A sprinkling of table salt and the addition of some manure will increase the puddle's appeal for butterflies. Salt harms plants, however, so use a plastic liner or locate the puddle away from your flower border.
What about Caterpillars?
Butterfly gardeners should not use insecticides and herbicides. Many pesticides kill indiscriminately so doom butterflies or their larvae. My advice? Don't fret too much about caterpillars chewing your prized plants. Natural predators usually keep caterpillar populations under control. Also, the larvae of many butterflies feed only on certain plants and trees.
Mostly, I welcome the occasional presence of butterfly caterpillars in my garden, sometimes carrying one indoors along with a spray of its food plant so that I can observe the miracle of metamorphosis. West coast ladies sometimes lay eggs on the leaves of ornamental mallows. Painted ladies, which instinctively lay their eggs on thistle plants, also find an acceptable substitute in the hairy leaves of borage. Spying dozens of painted lady caterpillars on your borage plants does not mean the end result will be a crowd of butterflies emerging from their cocoons in your garden. Such collections of juicy caterpillar morsels are handy food marts for wasps and hungry birds.
Common Garden Butterflies
Each delicately winged butterfly that graces your garden spent a part of its life in another, less well known form: a larva. To enjoy butterflies in greatest abundance, learn to recognize them whatever their stage of growth. All begin as an egg, which shortly becomes the larval form, a caterpillar. After feeding, caterpillars pupate in a chrysalis, then transform into beautiful butterflies.
Tiger Swallowtail
(Papilio glaucus and P. rutulus) The caterpillar lives in a leaf shelter of its food plant, often trees such as cherry, poplar, birch, and basswood. The large adult is a common sight in gardens.
Monarch
(Danaus plexippus) Birds learn fast to avoid this caterpillar and butterfly. The larvae absorb toxins from their food plant, milkweed.
Buckeye
(Junonia coenia) This caterpillar is gardener-friendly because it eats weeds such as plantain. The "eyespots" on both wings of the adult are used to frighten predators.
 
Painted Lady
(Vanessa cardui) Colors on the caterpillar vary, but the yellow side stripes are consistent. Because the adults are so adaptable, this species is particularly widespread.
Great Spangled Fritillary
(Speyeria cybele) The butterfly's name comes from the silvery "spangles" visible on the undersides of wings. The favorite food plant of the spiny caterpillar? Violets.
Red Admiral
(Vanessa atalanta) This caterpillar feeds on nettle plants, inside an individual leaf tied up with silk. Adults like to linger on sunny garden paths, and often rest on a wooden structure--or the gardener!
Mourning Cloak
(Nymphalis antiopa) This spiny caterpillar feeds on nettles, elm, willow, poplar, and birch. Look for sunbathing adults on sunny, late-winter days, a sign that spring is near.
Black Swallowtail
(Papilio polyxenes) Just about any plant of the carrot family, such as carrots, dill, and parsley, are fair game for this caterpillar. When you see the butterflies in your garden, you know the caterpillars will follow soon.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/218  till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@neitns.net  641-794-3337

​Photo: Time for the Chelsea chop otherwise these plants get too tall and floppy.

​After: Now you can see the container that was hidden by the growing phlox plants. I left a row of tall ones in the back to blossom first. They have the shed to lean on for support and the shorter plants in front of them will hide their naked ankles.

​Pink asters are in short supply in my garden so I take advantage of the opportunity to make more.

      ​      Interesting article about pruning perennials early in the season.  I thought I would share with you.  Do any of you do this?  Let us know.  CHOP, CHOP
What is the Chelsea Chop? A new hairdo or a fancy cut of meat? Nope, it’s just a pruning technique borrowed from the Brits. By cutting back leggy perennials by early summer, you will have more flowers on a fuller-looking plant. It’s hard to chop but it works and you’ll be happy once you see the renewed blooms! Here’s how.
The name “Chelsea Chop” comes from Great Britain because they do it around the time of the annual Chelsea Flower Show in May. However, for many areas, the timing is simply late spring or early summer.  For me, it should be called the “4th of July Chop” because cutting the plants any later than that won’t give them enough time to recover and blossom before fall.
The whole idea is that one hour of pruning now would result in three more weeks of flowers at the end of their season! As well as extending the blooming season, you are controlling the growth and shape of your perennials for a better-looking, fuller, more compact plant. This pruning technique is especially suited to perennials to get too tall and leggy such as phlox, aster, and sedum.
I ruthlessly chop off the top 1/3 of 1/2 of the New England asters and tall phlox in my front flowerbeds because they get so tall we can’t see out of the windows! I am a little more selective in the other beds, cutting back only about half the plants in a clump, leaving a few to grow tall and blossom earlier. The shorter ones help to support the leggy ones, lessening the need for staking, and hide their “naked ankles”, the leafless stems at the base of the taller plants.
 I usually just use my trusty kitchen shears to make random sharp cuts but you can use pruners, loppers, or even hedge clippers to get the job done faster.
Before: Phlox take over in front of the shed and get so tall and floppy it can be a challenge to open the door! They also overtake the other plantings.
After: Now you can see the container that was hidden by the growing phlox plants. I left a row of tall ones in the back to blossom first. They have the shed to lean on for support and the shorter plants in front of them will hide their naked ankles.
Pink asters are in short supply in my garden so I take advantage of the opportunity to make more.
If you are as frugal as I am, save some of the cuttings to root and make new plants! New England asters and phlox cuttings placed in a glass of water will produce new roots in no time. They can be potted up to share or planted out in the garden where they often bloom the first year.
The Chelsea chop is best done on late summer or fall bloomers like rudbeckias, helenium, goldenrod, asters, phlox, marguerites, chrysanthemums, and nepeta. Since it encourages branching, the plants will be shorter, more compact, and have more flowers. By leaving a few tall ones to bloom earlier you can extend the bloom time. Give it a try!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/chelsea-chop-cutting-back-perennials-better-blooms
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

​     So here we are June 25th and another almost perfect day.  Clear, blue sky with a little breeze and still lower humidity for NOW.  We had lots of rain over the weekend.  The rain came as a surprised to Larry and I on Sunday evening.  We didn’t realize that much rain.  We had 3 inches that night and another 1.3 inches on Monday.  There was lots of water around.  Now it is Thursday.  I saw a sprayer go out, so the fields must be drying out.  Humidity is coming back tomorrow, another cold front so it will be gone for Saturday but then the humidity will come back for next week.  BUT it is the end of June and summer is here. 
     I have had gardeners come and some of them have been new to the greenhouse.  They seemed impressed with the variety, color and selection.  I must tell you a story.  One of them asked me “What is your secret for the vivid, vibrant colors.”
“I said we did a second crop of zinnias and marigold, so they are young yet so looking good.”
“Yes, they are but all of the plants look so vibrant.”
“I have to give the credit to all the rain we have gotten.  Nothing better for them but nature’s rain.”
“I also fertilize every time I water so they will have what they need to grow.”
She still was looking for an answer.  This is what I told her.
“I am the caretaker, but these are the Lord’s flowers.  He is showing how happy he is with what I am doing.”   Ok she said I understand.  Thanks to the ladies that came as a group for the first time to see what we have here at Becky’s Greenhouse.
I am posting pictures of what they would have seen with the vibrant colors.  You can see I have plants here yet.  Another gardener asked,” You have lots of plants left.”
I said,” yes, I have planned on that.  We planted in May so I would still have a variety for you the gardener to add more or replace plants in your gardens or container.  I will continue to keep them looking well into July and August if you are in a need to replace plants or working on a new flower bed. 
      The only thing in July, August I will only be open during the week.  Monday thru Friday.  Closed on the weekends. I need a day off.  With today’s date, this is the 102 days of working straight in the greenhouse.  Starting in March with planting, and then at the end of April working with you the gardener.   I did some work in January with the succulents, February I planted pansies, but I didn’t add those days with the 102 because I did take weekends off to do other things.  I will be open Saturday and Sunday this weekend.  Friday, Saturday hours 9-6, Sunday 11-4.
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337

      I have been for the last hour trying to get a video downloaded to this site about the perennials we have here.  But it isn't working.  So need to go to plan B.  Here are pictures of the perennials.  So what I said in the video.  Good morning, and it is a great almost perfect morning after the rain we had for the last 2 days.  The perennials are blooming and very lush with the rain.  Can you see the butterflies?  Hope I got some with the pictures.  So here is the first rack blooming perennials and ready to go into your garden.  Next pictures are of the lily rack and you can see they have grown nicely and some are blooming with many getting ready to bloom.  The third rack and you see the monarda.  Also we are growing dahlias and they are growing well.  They are not perennials but they will give you color all summer long and into the fall.  There is a blue iris ready to bloom.  The hostas are all looking good and they are also ready to go into your gardens.  SO if you are in need of more perennials, stop in or call me at Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa 641-794-3337 beckmall@netins.ent, till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa 

​So the second posting for today.  We still have tomatoes and peppers on the hot side plants.  Plus we have all the cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower.  We have vine plants too in  cucumbers, squash and melons.  So if you have room, or lost some of these vegetables you still can plant them.  We probably will work on the peppers and tomato rack tomorrow on unplanting but will not get rid of all of them.  I need to lessen our plants for all the watering it takes when it doesn't rain and when it gets warm.  For both tomatoes and peppers time is getting close to be able to get them planted for production this fall.  Stop out and see us if you need any of these vegetable plants.  We can find some vegetables that will give you some produce.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 

image from simple.wikipedia.org

           So working from the home office.  I haven't been working from here for almost 100 days.  We got 2.3 inches of rain last night.  As of noon today another inch of rain.  Things are wet.  Water around the greenhouse and some going thru it.  Not like it was with 4 inches of rain, but still it is wet out.  For the ones of you know that we have kittens they are safe and dry.  I am posting an article about monarch butterflies which I have been seeing flying around.  Yes I have different kinds of ornamental milkweed you have plant in your garden and you will have them fly around.
Milkweed in the garden 
 By Susan Littlefield
 
Monarch butterflies are amazing creatures. These strikingly colored, orange, white, and black butterflies migrate up to three thousand miles every year to spend the winter roosting in large groups in mild winter areas of Mexico and California. Unfortunately, they are also in deep trouble. Over the past twenty years, the number of monarchs has dropped precipitously due in large part to loss of habitat. Logging of Mexican forests has reduced the extent of the butterflies' overwintering sites, and in this country, modern agricultural practices and urban and suburban development have led to loss of important grasslands habitat and a sharp decline in the number of milkweed plants that are vital for monarch reproduction.
 
While the adult butterflies feed on nectar from a wide variety of flowers, monarch caterpillars feed exclusively on milkweed. No milkweed means no butterflies. How can you help the beleaguered monarch? By planting milkweed in your own garden and landscape.
 
Various species of milkweed are found growing natively across the country. While some are wildlings that are best suited to more naturalized landscape areas, there are some species of milkweed that fit nicely into more manicured garden areas.
 
Butterfly weed is one of the latest perennials to sprout in the spring. Mark its spot so you don't disturb it by accident before it sends up new shoots.
 
One of the best garden additions is butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), with large, flat-topped clusters of bright orange flowers all summer long on 1-3 foot tall plants. An undemanding, drought tolerant perennial that's native to the eastern and southern U.S. and adapted to USDA Zones 4-9, all it asks is full sun and well-drained soil. Besides helping monarchs, the flowers of butterfly weed also provide nectar to nourish many other species of butterflies. A great choice for a prairie or meadow planting, it pairs nicely with other natives like purple coneflowers, asters, and ornamental grasses.
 
Swamp milkweed is a great choice for gardens with moist soil, but also does well in soils with average moisture.
 
Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) grows naturally in swamps (hence the name), but it also does well in garden settings in full sun in USDA Zones 3-9, adapting to soils with average moisture. A native of the eastern U.S., this milkweed is a robust plant reaching 3-5 feet tall and producing clusters of fragrant pink or mauve flowers through the summer. As with all milkweeds, it will feed monarch caterpillars and attract many species of butterflies.
 
There are many more native milkweed species that thrive in a variety of climates and growing conditions. Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is one of the most familiar, growing natively in most of the eastern and central U.S. and Canada, but other species are found in just about every region of the country. Here are suggestions for a dozen of the most ornamental native milkweeds from the National Wildlife Federation.
 
You can also help monarch butterflies by including a variety of flowering plants in your garden so there are blooms from spring to fall to provide nectar for adult butterflies and avoiding the use of pesticides harmful to butterflies and their caterpillars in your gardens and landscape.
taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/3927
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from boston2berkeley.com

      ​   I suppose to be working on bookwork, but I am finding more things to write to you about.  One gardener asked about lemon cucumbers.  So we quickly planted them 3 weeks ago and now I just took outside as they are ready to go in the garden.  I thought they had a lemon flavor, but I looked it up and I WAS WRONG.  Here is what I found out about lemon cucumbers.  They are not too late to plant in your garden if you have room. 
Lemon Cucumbers
 
Description/Taste
 Lemon cucumbers are spherical to oval-shaped, averaging 5-7 centimeters in length and often have a small protrusion at the blossom end, somewhat like a navel orange. Its yellow to gold skin is thin and tender with some striping and mottling and has tiny bristles that are edible but can easily be removed. This tennis-ball sized fruit changes from lemon-yellow to a golden yellow as it ripens. The inner flesh is pale green to yellow with edible seeds and has a mild, sweet taste with a cool, crisp texture.
 
Seasons/Availability
 Lemon cucumbers are available during summer months.
 
Current Facts
 Lemon cucumbers, botanically classified as Cucumis sativus, get their name from the lemon-yellow color of its skin but does not have a flavor profile similar to an actual lemon. Also known as a Garden Lemon, Apple cucumber, Budamkaya, and Dosakai, Lemon cucumbers have thin skin and are burpless, meaning they lack bitter flavor components and are easily digestible.
 
Nutritional Value
 Lemon cucumbers contain vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium, calcium, fiber and anti-oxidants.
 
Applications
 Lemon cucumbers are most often used in raw preparations but may also be pickled. They can be used sliced in fresh green salads, tofu salads, zucchini and pea salads, or sliced and served fresh with basil pesto. Lemon cucumbers can also be juiced and used in cocktails, agua frescas, and smoothies. Pair with tomatoes, summer squash, carrots, fresh herbs and cheeses, citrus, olives, and vinegar. Lemon cucumbers will keep up to three days when stored in the refrigerator.
 
Ethnic/Cultural Info
 Lemon cucumbers have a strong modern market presence in India where it is commonly added to soup, Daal, used in making Dosa-Aavakaaya, and chutney. It is popular in India for its cooling properties to assist in fighting against the sweltering summer heat and is also enjoyed raw as a summer snack.
 
Geography/History
 Lemon cucumbers are believed to have originated in India or the Middle-East in the 16th century as referenced by ancient Middle Eastern texts. It was then introduced to the United States in the early 1900s. Today, Lemon cucumbers can be found at farmers markets and specialty grocers in the United States, Europe, and Asia.
taken from https://specialtyproduce.com/produce/Lemon_Cucumbers_3844.php
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net