We have sold lots of these miniature roses, but we have more.  They are blooming and looking great with new colors.  They are in a 4" pot which will transplant great.  The cost of them is $5.49.  One of the many perennials we still have here.
     Miniature roses are true roses, bred to stay small in size. Most mini roses also have smaller flowers than standard rose bushes, but they come in a variety of types and colors. Despite their small size, miniature roses are extremely hardy. In fact they are more winter hardy than most tea roses. Miniatures also tend to be profuse repeat bloomers.  Miniature roses work well in a border and are especially nice as specimen plants or edgers.
      Miniflora - An American Rose Society classification for newly developed mini roses that have a slightly larger plant and bloom size than miniature roses. Average plant size is 2 ½ - 4 ½ feet. Plant and treat miniature roses the same as you would full size roses.
Dig a hole the same depth as the pot the rose came in and about a foot wider. Carefully remove the rose from the pot and gently loosen the roots. If the plant is tightly root bound, use a sharp knife to score the sides of the root ball and try again to loosen the roots. Add some organic matter to the soil in hole, if needed.  Place the rose bush in the center of the hole, with the roots spread out.  Fill in the hole and firm gently. Thoroughly water the newly planted bush and then apply a layer of mulch.
     Roses can be heavy feeders and since mini roses continue blooming all season, regular fertilizing is essential. Use any commercial rose food or general purpose fertilizer, according to label instructions. Feed when the bush first leafs out. Feed after each heavy flush of bloom. Stop feeding about 6 - 8 weeks before the first expected frost.
     How much water your rose bush will require depends on your soil and weather. A general rule of thumb is to provide at least an inch of water each week. During hot, dry spells you will need to water more frequently. Be sure to water deeply, so that the soil is wet at least 12 - 18 inches below the surface. Avoid getting the leaves wet during humid weather, to discourage fungal diseases.
    Although mini roses do quite well in containers and you often see them sold as houseplants, many gardeners are disappointed by their performance indoors. As roses, they need full sun and good humidity. These are easy enough to provide in summer, but humidity drops considerably when the heat comes on indoors and roses will quickly become desiccated. Mini roses given as gifts will do best if transplanted outdoors. Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

            Memorial Day is a day to thank and think about the ones that have served in our military to keep our rights and freedom as we have them now.  I am especially partial to the Navy Seabees as Larry retired out of the Seabees as his military career.  If you have listened to any stories about the Navy Seabees, you know they had a good time.  Thanks guys for serving and protecting our rights and freedom.  For all that have gone before us...we are saying thank you and thinking of you today.   
      Here is the history of the Seabees.  Seabees -- their simple motto tells the story: "We build, we fight". From the island hopping of World War II and the cold of Korea, to the jungles of Vietnam, to the mountains of Bosnia, and to the deserts of Afghanistan and Kuwait, the Seabees have built entire bases, bulldozed and paved thousands of miles of roadway and airstrips, and accomplished a myriad of construction projects.
In December 1941, with an eye on the developing storm clouds across both oceans, Rear Admiral Ben Moreell, Chief of the Navy's Bureau of Yards and Docks, recommended establishing Naval Construction Battalions. With the attack on Pearl Harbor and the U.S. entrance into the war, he was given the go-ahead.
The earliest Seabees were recruited from the civilian construction trades and were placed under the leadership of the Navy's Civil Engineer Corps. Because of the emphasis on experience and skill rather than on physical standards, the average age of Seabees during the early days of the war was 37.
More than 325,00 men served with the Seabees in World War II, fighting and building on six continents and more than 300 islands. In the Pacific, where most of the construction work was needed, the Seabees landed soon after the Marines and built major airstrips, bridges, roads, warehouses, hospitals, gasoline storage tanks and housing.
With the general demobilization following the war, the Construction Battalions were reduced to 3,300 men on active duty by 1950. Between 1949 and 1953, Naval Construction Battalions were organized into two types of units: Amphibious Construction Battalions (PHIBCBs) and Naval Mobile Construction Battalions (NMCBs).
The Korean Conflict saw a call-up of more than 10,000 men. The Seabees landed at Inchon with the assault troops. They fought enormous tides as well as enemy fire and provided causeways within hours of the initial landings. Their action here and at other landings emphasized the role of the Seabees and there was no Seabee demobilization when the truce was declared.
Following Korea, the Seabees embarked on a new mission. From providing much needed assistance in the wake of a devastating earthquake in Greece in 1953 to providing construction work and training to underdeveloped countries, the Seabees became "The Navy's Goodwill Ambassadors". Seabees built or improved many roads, orphanages and public utilities in many remote parts of the world.
These "Civic Action teams" continued into the Vietnam War where Seabees, often fending off enemy forces alongside their Marine and Army counterparts, also built schools and infrastructure and provided health care service. After Vietnam, the Seabees built and repaired Navy bases in Puerto Rico, Japan, Guam, Greece, Sicily, and Spain. Their civic action projects focused on the Trust Territories of the Pacific.
In 1971, the Seabees began their largest peacetime construction on Diego Garcia, a small atoll in the Indian Ocean. This project took 11 years and cost $200 million. The complex accomodates the Navy's largest ships and the biggest military cargo jets. This base proved invaluable when Iraq invaded Kuwait in August 1990 and Operations Desert Shield and Desert Storm were launched.
During the Gulf War, more than 5,000 Seabees (4,000 active and 1,000 reservists) served in the Middlle East. In Saudi Arabia, Seabees built 10 camps for more than 42,000 personnel; 14 galleys capable of feeding 75,000 people; and 6 million square feet of aircraft parking apron.
For more than 60 years the Seabees have repeatedly demonstrated their skills as fighters and builders. From the islands of the Pacific to the jungles of Vietnam, to the mountains of Bosnia and to the sands of Saudi Arabia and Kuwait, they have built and fought for freedom. In peacetime, they have been goodwill ambassadors. In peace and in war, they have lived their motto: "Can Do!" Taken from http://www.navy.mil/navydata/personnel/seabees/seabee1.html
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

          I had a question yesterday about how to harvest lettuce so here is what I found.  This is what I told the young gardener.   I have several varieties of lettuce in containers so you can take home transplant, eat right away and have fresh garden lettuce.  I took one home and will have fresh lettuce today for our evening meal.  I have put in a recipe of a dressing like my mom used to make.  See what you think do you remember it?  How do you fix your fresh lettuce? 
How to Harvest Leaf Lettuce

• Harvesting leaf lettuce is quite simple. Are you having salad for dinner? Walk out to the garden and pick the mature leaves. When you think about how to pick leaf lettuce, just remember that you don’t want to uproot the whole plant, which will cause the rest of the plant to die off. Be gentle and quickly snap off each mature leaf, leaving behind those that aren’t ready so the Lettuce should be harvested when full size, but just before maturity. You want it young and tender.
• Before maturity, you can harvest leaf lettuce by simply removing outer leaves so that the center leaves can continue to grow. Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer leaves, digging up the whole plant or cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible this way. Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm.
• Mature lettuce gets bitter and woody and it will go bad quickly, so check your garden everyday.
• As time passes, you will want to cut the whole plant from the ground.
• It’s best to harvest in the morning before leaves have been exposed to sun.
• Keep lettuce in the refrigerator for up to 10 days in a loose plastic bag

Ingredients  for dressing for Garden Lettuce
1- 5 ounce can evaporated milk
1/4 cup cider vinegar
4 1/2 tsp white sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/8 tsp black pepper
Whisk the evaporated milk, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper together in a bowl until the sugar is dissolved.  Chill until ready to use.
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer, from Becky's Greeenhouse, Dougherty Iowa Enjoy this great Memorial Day weekend...

Excellent picture of containerscaping.  Plant the same plant in the pot and group the pots for color, texture and form.  These are big leaf begonias.

           I use begonias in some of the mass plantings in the garden beds of Mason City.  The Big leaf Begonia is a great one for this.  As you can see by the picture also use in containers.  It will take shade but also does well in sun.  It will get tall like 16" tall and just blooms, blooms and blooms.  No deadheading as it is self cleaning.  This variety is a cross between a dragon wing begonia and a waxed begonia.  I have it in red leaf red bloom, and a green leaf with a red bloom.  We have 2 kinds of dragon wing begonia and they will need to be in more shade.  Give these a thought for your gardens.  Here is an article I found in our trade magazine about begonias.  Also have a great Memorial Day weekend.  Here in Iowa we have rain, but then we will have sun shining and great time for all the outside activities.  ENJOY!!!!
Begonias: The Perfect Landscape Plant
By Jasmina Dolce  taken from my Lawn and Garden retailer magazine
     By now, we all know that begonias are a staple landscape plant. From sun to shade, backyards to commercial plantings, they work. That’s why it’s no surprise the National Garden Bureau named 2016 “Year of the Begonia.”  The landscape market continues to trend upward as home owners look to create inviting outdoor spaces and spruce up curb appeal. And begonias can help achieve both.
     Gardeners love begonias for a variety of reasons. Recent introductions offer versatility and tolerance to a range of environments, and they require little maintenance. They’re perfect for the landscape lover’s front yard and even the urban gardener’s mixed combo.
Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from  Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

          I had a customer in yesterday that wanted to know if I had Romaine lettuce started.  I remember I grew it last year, but need to start some now.  That lead me to think about how many different kinds of lettuce can we grow in the garden.  This article taken from  Article printed from Gardening Know How: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com.
      There are five groups of lettuce categorized by head formation or leaf type. Each of these lettuce varieties offers a unique flavor and texture, and growing different types of lettuce will be a surefire way to generate interest in eating a healthy diet. Let’s learn more about the different lettuce types.
       Crisphead lettuce, more commonly known as iceberg, has a tight head of crisp leaves. Often found in the local salad bar and a virtual staple in the delicious BLT, it’s actually one of the more difficult lettuce varieties to grow. This lettuce variety is not fond of hot summer temps or water stress and may rot from the inside out.  Start iceberg lettuce via seed directly sown 18-24 inches apart or started indoors and then thinned 12-14 inches between heads. Some iceberg lettuce varieties include: Ballade, Crispino, Ithaca, Legacy, Mission, Salinas, Summertime and Sun Devil, all of which mature in 70-80 days.  Probably will not grow this as it is hard to grew on the garden.
     Summer Crisp, French Crisp or Batavian Somewhat between the lettuce types Crisphead and Looseleaf, Summer Crisp is a large lettuce variety resistant to bolting [1] with great flavor. It has thick, crisp outer leaves which can be harvested as a looseleaf until the head forms, while the heart is sweet, juicy and a bit nutty. Different types of lettuce for this variety are: Jack Ice, Oscarde, Reine Des glaces, Anuenue, Loma, Magenta, Nevada and Roger, all of which mature within 55-60 days.
      Butterhead, Boston or Bibb  One of the more delicate varieties of lettuce, Butterhead is creamy to light green on the inside and loose, soft and ruffled green on the exterior. These different types of lettuce may be harvested by removing the entire head or just the outside leaves and are easier to grow than the Crispheads, being more tolerant of conditions.  Less likely to bolt and rarely bitter [2], the Butterhead lettuce varieties mature in about 55-75 days spaced similarly to the Crispheads. These varieties of lettuce include: Blushed Butter Oak, Buttercrunch, Carmona, Divina, Emerald Oak, Flashy Butter Oak, Kweik, Pirat, Sanguine Ameliore, Summer Bib, Tom Thumb, Victoria, and Yugoslavian red and are extremely popular in Europe.
     Romaine or Cos  Romaine varieties are typically 8-10 inches tall and upright growing with spoon-shaped, tightly folded leaves and thick ribs. Coloration is medium green on the exterior to greenish white inside with the outer leaves sometimes being tough whilst the interior foliage is tender with wonderful crunch and sweetness.  ‘Romaine’ comes from the word Roman while ‘Cos’ is derived from the Greek island of Kos. Some different types of this lettuce are: Brown Golding, Chaos Mix II black, Chaos Mix II white, Devil’s Tongue, Dark Green Romaine, De Morges Braun, Hyper Red Rumple, Little Leprechaun, Mixed Chaos black, Mixed Chaos white, Nova F3, Nova F4 black, Nova F4 white, Paris Island Cos, Valmaine, and Winter Density, all of which mature within around 70 days.
      Looseleaf, Leaf, Cutting or Bunching  Last but not least is one of the easiest types of lettuce to grow [3] — the Looseleaf varieties of lettuce, which form no head or heart. Harvest [4] these varieties either whole or by the leaf as they mature. Plant at weekly intervals starting in early April and again mid August. Thin Looseleaf lettuce to 4-6 inches apart. Looseleaf varieties are slow bolting and heat resistant.  A wide variety of colors and shapes guaranteed to stimulate the sight and the palate are available in the following lettuce varieties: Austrian Greenleaf, Bijou, Black Seeded Simpson, Bronze Leaf, Brunia, Cracoviensis, Fine Frilled, Gold Rush, Green Ice, New Red Fire, Oakleaf, Perilla Green, Perilla Red, Merlot, Merveille De Mai,Red Sails, Ruby, Salad Bowl, and Simpson Elite, which will all mature within a 40-45 day time period.  Now we know about all the different kinds of lettuce we can grow.  TRY some, and even put into your flower bed think outside of the box.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

What not to do in your vegetable garden.

           Here we go...Dougherty got another inch of rain last night, there was no damage like some had with the wind.  It will help with the watering outside, will not have to do it today.  Had good help yesterday and got the plants out of the east greenhouse, and down in the west greenhouse just on the floor.  So all of that is good.  Racks are full, plants are blooming and here we go with another weekend coming up for planting. 
     Journey's Past Flea Market and General Store is open.  Every Friday here in Dougherty on Main St. there will be a Flea Market and the General Store will be open.  Come on and have a look what treasures you can find. Then you know you can stop and see us at the greenhouse. 
    Found this article about what not to do with your vegetable gardens.  I usually talk about what to do.  Interesting...Whether you are just starting your first vegetable garden, or have been growing for decades you are bound to make mistakes.Here are things NOT to do in the vegetable garden along with an extra bonus tip at the end.
      Do Not Over Fertilize  Many new vegetable gardeners may get the idea that really slapping on the fertilizer will help the plant grow even more. And the more fertilizer you use, the bigger and better the plant will get. Avoid Over Fertilizing Vegetables
Fertilizers should really only be used when there is a nutrient deficiency in the soil. Plants are going to only take up nutrients as they need them, and any others that are added to the soil will only go to waste. This is especially true when it comes to nitrogen. Sure, there are some plants that will benefit from a small dosage of fertilizer, such as corn, and organic amendments like compost are always a good bet.
     Do Not Plant In Too Much Shade  Planting vegetables in a shady area is a really big no-no. There are a handful of veggies that do not mind a little shade, such as lettuces and peas, but most vegetables need at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight in order to thrive. Less than that and you could end up with underperforming plants. If you are starting your first vegetable garden make sure to watch the sun throughout the season to find the area that gets the best sunlight. It’s better to check the sunlight in the spring, summer, and fall because what is sunny in early spring might be shaded in summer once the trees have filled with leaves.
      Do Not Forget to Amend the Soil Amend Garden Soil with Plenty of Compost There’s a saying in gardening that goes something like this, “Feed the soil so it feeds the plants”. This is extremely important and should be embedded in your gardener brain. If you start out with vibrant, healthy soil you will grow vibrant, healthy plants. Amending your soil in the spring, throughout the season, and in the fall with copious amounts of organic matter is the absolute best thing you can ever do for your garden. When it comes to compost and other soil amendments you really want to pile it on. With adding compost, more is better.
     Do Not Over Water  Just like over fertilizing, over watering is a very common mistake many gardeners make. Keep in mind that most vegetables need about an inch of water per week. A good rule to remember is to keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy.  I like to use the “finger check” method to see if a plant needs water. Simply take your finger  and stick it in the soil about an inch or two deep. If the soil feels dry to the touch, water the plants. If the soil feels moist, do not water and re-check again the next day.  I always recommend mulching around plants. You can use straw, dried grass clippings, unfinished compost, dried leaves, or non-colored bark mulches as an excellent mulch for the vegetable garden. A thick layer of mulch will help conserve soil moisture and even help keep weeds from getting out of hand.
      Do Not Plant Seedlings Too Deep… Except TomatoesTomatoes are the only vegetable that you can actually plant deep. Every vegetable except tomatoes should be transplanted so the soil line of the seedling is level with the soil line of the garden. 
Tomatoes are the rare exception because the tiny hairs found on the stem of the plant will actually form roots. Planting the tomatoes deep will cause the plant to grow a bigger, stronger root system.  So, when transplanting vegetables into the garden make sure to keep the soil lines the same, except for tomatoes.
     Do Not Start Out Too Big Once you get the gardening bug it is difficult to restrain yourself from wanting to go full bore and plant an expansive vegetable garden. The temptation is great. If you are just starting your first garden resist the urge to plant a huge garden right off the bat. Start with a few easy plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, green beans, or lettuces. Once you start getting comfortable growing those vegetables, expand on to a couple more vegetables. As your experience and confidence grows, start diving into more difficult vegetable to grow, like broccoli or Brussels sprouts. Avoid growing a huge garden during your first at-bat. Doing so can lead to you becoming overwhelmed and frustrated.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

       Notice a mistake on the title from yesterday Old Fashioned Planted...should be plant.  You know what I have been doing but planting.  Today I am going to share with you small gardening hints from The Old Farmer's Cookbook Almanac, Garden Fresh.  If you love cookbooks like I do, I read them a lot.  If you want a good cookbook using fresh herbs, this is one you need to look at. 
     Chive a perennial, grows 12 to 24 inches tall in moist soil.  Harvest the hollow, grasslike leaves in the spring by snipping them close to the ground, they will grow back.  Chives enliven rice, cheese dishes, eggs, vegetables dishes, dressings, sauces and dips.
    I was suppose with what onion is the mildest.  Know your onions dry, or bulb, onions include spring summer sweet onions, such as Vidalia and Bermuda and the stronger flavor, fall winter storage onions such as Yellow Globe.  They may be white, red, or yellow and are harvested after the tops have died down.  Sweet onions have thin skins and a mild taste that makes them perfect for eating raw or using in briefly cooked dishes.  Storage onions have thick layers of skin, are more pungent, and do well in dishes that cook for a while.  Red onions are usually the mildest and often are eaten raw or grilled.  White onions are a bit more pungent and often are sautéed and used  in salsas or Mexican cuisine.  Yellow onions have the strongest flavor, they are great for soups and other cooked dishes.
     In the kitchen, potatoes to seal in Vitamic C, add a pinch of sugar, not salt to potato boiling water. Asparagus to save n store, to store for a week or two wash asparagus spears in cold water  and place a moist paper towel over their cut ends.  Place the spears in a plastic bag and store in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator. To store for 2 to 3 days, trim the stems and stand the spears in 1 inch of water in a glass, cover with plastic and refrigerate. 
    Here is a recipe to use your rhubarb in.
Marbled Rhubarb Orange Bread
1 3/4 diced rhubarb
2 1/2 cups plus 2 Tablespoon all purpose flour
1/4 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
zest and juice of 1 orange
3/4 cup sugar
2 Tablespoon shortening
1 egg
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
 
 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Grease and flour a 9 x 5 inch loaf pan.  In a small bowl, toss the rhubarb pieces with 2 tablespoons of flour to coat.  Set aside. In a separate bowl, combine the pecans, brown sugar and cinnamon.  Set aside. In a large bowl, combine the orange zest and sugar.  Add the shortening and mix thoroughly. To this mixture, add the orange juice and egg. Mix well.  Sift together the remaining flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Add these dry ingredients to the orange mixture alternately with buttermilk, stirring between each addition until the batter is smooth.  Fold in the rhubarb pieces. Spoon half of the batter into the prepared loaf pan.  Sprinkle three quarters  pecan mixture on top.  Spoon the remaining batter into the loaf pan. Top with remaining pecan mixture.  Swirl a knife through the batter several times to create marbling.  Bake for about 60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.  Remove from the oven, cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.  Makes 1 large loaf.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

     coleus stained glassworks copper

          We have different kinds of coleus on hand and I have noticed they are very popular this spring.  Here is a little information about this colorful foliage plant that now can be grown in more sun.  Our mothers and grandmothers would have said only plant them in the shade, but plant developed has made a change. 
     Coleus leaves don't need the addition of flowers. There are varieties in combinations of reds, pinks, yellows, oranges, and greens. No blues or purples - yet. Coleus plants, made popular as a Victorian bedding plants, made a huge comeback in the 1990s and shows no sign of fading back into anonymity. Why should it? Coleus plants give us all season color, in full sun or shade and everything in between. They are the ultimate low maintenance plant. Coleus are tender tropical plants, native to areas bordering the equator. They love the heat, but will happily grow as annuals in just about any garden.
      Foliage : Coleus are in the Lamiaceae, or mint, family and have the familiar square stems and opposite leaves. However the foliage offers a great deal of variety, with some ruffled, others elongated, and an endless combination of colors and markings.  Flowers: The tall, thin stalks of flowers are usually pruned off before they bloom, to keep the plant’s energy going toward producing a bushy plant. Since the modern sun coleus types do not grow true to seed, the incidental flowers are not missed.
       Light exposure depends on the variety. The old fashioned seed-grown coleus do best in partial shade, but the newer vegetatively cultivated varieties have their best color if grown in full sun.
     Bloom Period: Plants will try to bloom intermittently throughout the growing season, but as mentioned, the flower stalks are usually trimmed off.
      Soil: Coleus are said to prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH, but I haven’t had problems in my slightly acidic soil. I think as long as there is plenty of organic matter, you should be fine. Planting: Coleus is not at all frost tolerant. Don’t rush to get your plants in the ground. Wait until temperatures remain reliably above 60 F., before you move them out in the garden.
      Water: Although coleus love heat, they also need a moist soil. The soil should not remain wet all the time, but long dry spells will slow the plants’ growth and the leaves will start to turn brown around the edges.  Mulching will help the soil retain moisture longer, but I have read that cedar mulch can be toxic to coleus. I haven’t tried it myself, so I can’t really say. Fertilizer: You’ll get the best color from your coleus leaves if you go easy on the fertilizer. If you have rich soil, you may not need to feed at all. If not, use a balanced fertilizer at half strength monthly.
      To get full, bushy plants, pinch out the growing tips with the plants are about 6 in. tall. You can do this a few more times, if you like, but once the plants start sending up flower stalks, you’ll be pinching out the stalks and getting the same results as pinching the tips.  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa
Here is what we have: 
coleus Kong mosaic
coleus stained glassworks copper
coleus stained glassworks kiwi fern
coleus sun dark choc
coleus sun choc covered cherry

I will be busy planting these this week. 

     I found this interesting about Memorial Day and the planters.  Like I said where did May go?  Memorial weekend coming up....wow
       Will you be decorating cemetery monuments this Memorial Day? If so, children (or others) may be curious about the exact meaning behind the holiday. Specifically, how does it differ from Veterans Day? And how do so-called "cemetery logs" planted for the May holiday differ from those planted for Veterans Day? More importantly on a practical level, if you're looking for some options in "patriotic" annuals for your planting needs, you'll want to see my pictures of red, white and blue flowers.  For those who haven't fully examined the history behind the two holidays, they may appear to be carbon copies of each other. But there is a difference between Memorial Day and Veterans Day (beyond, i.e., the date of celebration). Memorial Day is a day set aside to honor U.S. military personnel who have died in the service of their country. Veterans Day, meanwhile, is the holiday on which America honors all U.S. military personnel (all who have served honorably, that is).
     In terms of decorating cemetery (sometimes misspelled as "cemetary") monuments, a big difference (in Northern climes, at least) between Veterans Day and Memorial Day is that the weather for the latter is plant-friendly. Thus the so-called "cemetery logs" that you buy at the florist or nursery for Memorial Day are planted with live plants: namely annual plants (they're less expensive than perennial plants). 
     Cemetery logs look like window boxes, and their framework is often made out of rough-cut wood; this framework resembles a log, thus their name. Like window boxes, cemetery logs are filled with soil and planted. But in regions where the weather is too cold on November 11 (Veterans Day) to sustain annual flowers, cemetery logs are decorated instead with branches cut from evergreen trees, winterberries, artificial plants and other ornamentation that can withstand the frosty temperatures.
      Coming as it does on the threshold of summer (Memorial Day is celebrated on the last Monday in May), Memorial Day offers you better options for decorating cemetery monuments. There'll be plenty of time during the cold months to display artificial plants, so I heartily recommend that you use annual flowers for Memorial Day. Yes, annual flowers will die later in the year; but, in the meantime, they bring life to cemeteries. And isn't that what you truly seek from decorating cemetery monuments?  Till next time, this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa

Garden Salsa pepper, the most popular hot pepper here.

          What an awesome weekend, sun today, no clouds right now very little wind.  I know the temperature is coming up to 80 degrees but it will be great.  Thanks to all that have come and especially when you tell me you have read this website blog.  Makes doing it each day fun.  So today, Peter picked a peck of pickled peppers how many pickled peppers did Peter pick?  Here at Becky's Greenhouse we have the pepper plants for that peck of peppers.   
pepper Anaheim  A mild, medium sized chili pepper that grows to 6-10 inches, often used when green, though it can be used when red. The basic variety ripens to a dark green/reddish color, but other strains ripen to full red. They are one of the most common chilis in the United States and are used in many foods and recipes. Red varieties can be strung together and dried to make ristras. Maturity: 75-80 Days Scoville: 500-1000
 
pepper Baby Bell Mix  Matures in 65 days from transplanting. The perfect snack pepper! Bite sized mini-bells are sweet and crisp for eating fresh, stuffing or pickling. Each compact plant will produce an abundance of green peppers that will mature to red, orange, yellow or chocolate.
 
pepper Big Bertha Big Bertha produces thick, crisp peppers that are extremely sweet and mature dark green to shiny red. They don’t produce many seeds, making them excellent for slicing. For maximum flavor, eat the same day they are picked. Easy to grow in any garden, give them plenty of sunlight and water.
 
pepper California wonder  HEIRLOOM. The standard bell pepper for many decades, this 1928 introduction is still the largest open-pollinated, heirloom bell you can grow. A perfect stuffing pepper-blocky 4" x 3 1/2", thick-walled, tender and flavorful.
 
pepper Garden Salsa  73 days from transplanting.  Developed just for salsa, this medium-hot chile pepper turns out to be heavy bearing and delicious, too! Boasting just the right amount of heat, it can be picked green for salsa or allowed to turn red for full nutritional kick and use in salads, sauces, and more! Garden Salsa Hybrid scores 3,000 Scovilles on the heat index, which gives it a nice little bite in salsa but doesn't produce so much heat that diners have to be warned before they try it! It's a great all-purpose pepper, because it does offer a nicely nuanced flavor that works in a variety of dishes.  Expect these long, skinny peppers to reach 8 or 9 inches long but just about an inch in diameter at the widest point (the shoulders). The skin is thin, glossy, and firm, protecting the succulent flesh within, You can even dry Garden Salsa Hybrid and then grind it into spice.
 
pepper Hungarian Sweet Wax 68 days — 'Hungarian Sweet', also known as 'Sweet Banana',  'Yellow Wax' or 'Banana Chili', have tapering, six inch by 1½ inch long fruit that start out green, ripen to a light-yellow color at the harvest stage, finally maturing from golden to orange to red.  Their flavor is mild (typically 0 but can reach up to 500 Scoville Units) and as with most peppers, its "heat" depends on the stage of maturity at harvest.  That is, the riper they are, the sweeter they are. Although primarily used as a pickling pepper, they are also excellent stuffed with your favorite sausage or cheeses, or are used as a raw ingredient in various dishes.  Diced into small chunks, they are added to relish or salsa recipes to add sweetness and to temper the heat of other peppers in the mix.
 
pepper Jalapeno A jalapeno pepper is, of course, a type of chili pepper. It is a fuit of the Capsicum pod type. It is a medium sized pepper when compared to other chili pepper, measuring an average of 2-3.5 inches in length. While originating in Mexico, it is now grown worldwide for it's popular flavor and mild heat level, which averages around 5,000 Scoville Heat Units. That is hot, but not too hot.  You'll find them served when green, but if you leave the jalapeno pepper on the plant long enough, it will turn red. The red variety are just as delicious as the green jalapeno pepper, though a touch sweeter.
 
pepper Poblano  Loads of mildly pungent, 4" heart-shaped fruits that ripen from dark green to deep red. Called Ancho when dried, Poblano when fresh. This is one of the most popular peppers grown in Mexico. Plants grow to 2 1/2 ft. tall. Fully ripened, red fruits are much hotter and flavorful than the earlier picked green ones. Days to maturity are from time plants are set in garden.
 
pepper Purple Beauty 72 Days to maturity. This is a productive open-pollinated variety that produces an abundance of sweet, deep purple, 3" x 3" blocky fruit. Mature color is a deep red that develops late. Purple Beauty’s unusual, bright color makes a stunning addition to farmers market displays, home gardens, and fresh summer salads!
 
pepper Rainbow mix A formula mix of our most popular bell pepper colors. Grow a rainbow of vibrant sweet bells - red, yellow, green, orange, purple, and brown.
 
pepper Serrano Chili Small finger-shaped hot peppers picked green or red. Easy to dry.
Serrano will give you dozens of medium-thin walled fruits per plant. Pick them early when the peppers are green and more mild or wait until they're mature and "red hot", at about 10,000 Scovilles. Days to maturity are from time plants are set in garden. For transplants add 8-10 weeks. Space plants 18-24" apart.
 
pepper Yellow Bell Yellow, thick-walled, sweet fruits add appetizing color and vitamins to fresh salads, and are superb for stuffing as well as fresh use. Plants can get quite large, so be prepared to support them, especially when carrying lots of fruit. Ripens green to yellow.
Now you can read over what we have to make that peck of peppers.  Till next time this is Becky Litterer from Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty

New to us here at Becky's and very popular with the gardeners.  Big Bertha pepper