image from thebrownchair.com 

Kale another easy spring vegetable to plant.  Do you like kale?  I don't know if I do or not.  

​Good morning at the end of March going out I would say more like a lion with cooler temperatures and that wind.  I just came in from the greenhouse, and it is cold out. 37F(3C) after having a temperature at 3:00 AM at 51F(10C). The wind is blowing out of the N 24 mph.  high only 58F(18C) but still with the wind blowing it will be a cool day.  So different than the 80F(26C) yesterday.  It sounds like rain and cool the rest of the week.  Now doesn’t that sound like spring.   Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Wed. April 1 will have 84F(29C) and partly cloudy skies.  Sounds like a little more of the summer weather for them.  Stay cool, stay safe.
 
I am posting about another early spring crop that is easy to grow.  Kale. I don’t know if I like this or not.  But I will try it and see.  I always thought it was a little bitter but maybe if I harvest when they are younger it will be better.  Do you like Kale?  Just plant a little and even put in your flower bed makes a nice foliage plant.  I will have pots of plants here from Swift’s Greenhouse at the end of April if you want to try some. 

Growing Kale Written By:  Catherine Boeckmann
Eat your greens—and love them, too! Kale isn’t just a health food trend; it’s a garden superstar. Packed with vitamins and able to handle chilly temps like a champ, kale thrives in spring and fall. From curly to dinosaur varieties, this hardy leafy green brings beauty and bounty to your garden—and your plate. Let’s dig into how to grow kale like a pro!
About Kale
Kale is a cold-hardy, resilient, non-heading green. It’s one of the easiest members of the brassica family to grow (which includes cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and other common cole crops).
A biennial (2-year) plant, kale produces leaves in the first year, and then, in the next year (or sometimes late in the first year), it will form a flower stalk. The stalk forms flowers and then seeds. Once the seeds mature, the plant dies.
Think beyond grocery store kale; there are so many amazing kale flavors and textures to choose from if you grow your own seed: mild, almost salad-like greens; sweet ‘Red Russian’ kales; or the nutty and sometimes peppery flavors of Italian kales; or handsome ‘Cavalo Nero’ or Tuscan kale, also called dinosaur kale because of its texture.
As well as being extremely nutritious, kale is attractive, coming in a stunning range of varieties, from bright greens to dark purples, crunchy leaves to crinkled beauties, and everything in between. Its ornamental value can be appreciated in traditional garden beds or containers, especially in the fall.
While easy to grow, there are a few crucial things to get right if you want to enjoy a truly bumper crop of health-boosting leaves. Read on for our guide to growing kale.
Planting
Full sun and fertile, well-draining soil produce the fastest-growing and most tender leaves, though kale will tolerate partial shade as well. Add plenty of compost to the ground before planting, and if your soil isn’t especially rich, top up its fertility by working in nitrogen-rich amendments such as blood meal, cottonseed meal, or composted manure into the ground before planting.
When to Plant Kale
Kale tastes best when plants grow rapidly and mature before the heat of summer (before temperatures exceed 75°F/24°C) or after fall frosts occur. Young plants are not seriously damaged by temperatures down to 25°F/-4°C. Mature plants are extremely hardy and can withstand very cold temperatures. However, hot temperatures will slow growth and cause a bitter flavor.
For spring: Whether direct seeding into the soil or transplanting starter plants from the nursery, you can plant 4 to 6 weeks before the average last spring frost. Seeds will germinate at soil temperatures as low as 40°F/4°C.
How to Plant Kale
When planting, add fertilizer (1-1/2 cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 25 feet of row) into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil. If you fertilize with compost, apply no more than 1 inch of well-composted organic matter per 100 square feet of garden area.
Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch deep, 1 inch apart, in rows 18 to 30 inches apart.
If you’re setting out young plants (transplants), plant them at the depth at which they are growing in the container, spaced 12 inches apart, in rows 18 to 30 inches apart.
After planting, water the plants well.
Growing
After about 2 weeks, thin seedlings to 8 to 12 inches apart.
It’s important to keep kale well watered and fertilized. If rain is inconsistent, provide 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week (about 1 gallon per square foot).
Side-dress as needed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
Mulch the soil to keep down the weeds, retain moisture, and keep kale cool. Kale growth can slow if plants are stressed (too hot or cold, inadequate water, pests or disease).
Harvesting
Kale is ready to harvest when the leaves are about the size of your hand. Pick about a fistful of outer leaves per harvest, but no more than one-third of the plant at one time.
Avoid picking the terminal bud (at the top center of the plant), which helps to maintain the plant’s productivity.
Kale will continue growing until temperatures reach 20°F/-7°C. Do not stop harvesting: A “kiss” of frost makes it even sweeter. (See local frost dates.)
To extend the harvest, protect with row covers or tarps. Or, create a makeshift cover of old blankets propped up by hay bales.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/kale
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

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Think about planting Swiss Chard and maybe use as an accent plant in a container.  

GOOD morning.  Record high today of 80F(27C).  Enjoy today as the rest of the week will be cooler and we will have moisture.  There might even be a little snow in the air.  I know all are disappointed, but it is just the end of March and the first of April.  This is our spring weather. Stay cool, then stay warm and dry.  Stay safe. 
 
Australia family and friends Tuesday March 31 high of 78F(26C) looks like a great fall day for them.  Stay safe and enjoy yourself.  I know that Evelyn had planted Swiss Chard in her gardens.  She has several wicking beds which is a concept I haven’t seen here.  I will have to have that as one of my postings.  They work when it is dry and helps with the watering. 
 
We are in full production planting so lots of growing is going on at Becky’s Greenhouse.  We do have seed potatoes in if you think you can plant on Good Friday.  It might be too wet; the ground might be too cold.  We will have to see, but we have them in.  One vegetable I just love to see in the garden or containers is Swiss Chard.  Give it a try this year.  I think it would make a great accent plant in your containers. 
 
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Swiss Chard  Written By: Catherine Boeckmann
Why should flowers have all the fun? With stems in ruby red, sunshine yellow, and neon pink, Swiss chard brings a whole bouquet of color and nutrition to your garden beds and your dinner plate. This cool-weather super green isn’t just easy on the eyes—it’s easy to grow, too! Swiss chard is a cheerful and dependable garden MVP. Let’s dig into how to grow your own rainbow of leafy goodness!
Similar to beets, Swiss chard’s stems and leaves can be eaten cooked or raw. It is prolific—leave plenty of room in the garden bed! Its mild flavor adds nutrition and color to salads, pasta, pizzas, quiches, sandwiches, and more.
Swiss chard is very easy to grow, incredibly hardy, and a great choice for beginner gardeners. And it looks beautiful in the garden, with broad, thick stems available in colors ranging from pure white to golden yellow and even hot pink!
Typically grown as a cool-season crop because it grows quickly and easily during the cooler temperatures of spring and fall, chard is quite tolerant of hotter temperatures, too. Its growth will slow down in summer, but chard’s higher heat tolerance makes it a great salad green to grow when it gets too hot out for the others.
Chard is a superfood, high in vitamins A, C, and K. It doesn’t have the bitter taste that many other greens have, and it makes a good substitute for spinach or kale if you’re not a fan of those superfoods.
On top of all its virtues as a garden vegetable, chard is a lovely edible ornamental plant, coming in many different colors to mix with landscaping or in containers. Why, you could even use chard in a vase or bouquet, mixed with flowers, or on its own. Why should flowers have all the fun?
Chard will tolerate partial sun, but it grows best in full sun. It prefers a location with moderately fertile, well-draining soil and a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). Before planting, mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil to boost soil fertility. Scatter a general-purpose organic fertilizer on the soil one week before sowing, then rake the soil to a fine tilth.
When to Plant Swiss Chard
For the spring season, plant chard seeds 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date.  For us that is May 1st to May 15th for the last frost day. 
This would be important to do.  Soak seeds in water for 24 hours before planting to speed germination.
How to Plant Swiss Chard
When ready to plant, apply 5-10-10 fertilizer to the area.  Sow seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, 2 to 6 inches apart, in rows 18 inches apart.  Continue planting seeds at 10-day intervals for a month.
You can also start chard off in pots for transplanting later, which has the benefit of helping to prevent slugs from eating the young seedlings. This is also useful for succession planting while you wait for space to become available in the garden. Once you’ve cleared out the previous crop, transplant the sturdy chard seedlings in the garden one foot apart, leaving 16 inches between rows.
Growing
When plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin to 4 to 6 inches apart, or 6 to 12 inches if plants are large.  Use scissors to avoid disturbing nearby plant roots. You can eat the cuttings.
Chard usually does just fine without the use of fertilizer, but if yours seems to be staying small, consider applying a balanced fertilizer halfway through the season.
Water evenly and consistently to help it grow better. Water plants often during dry spells in the summer. Water regularly to promote plenty of fresh leafy growth and to stop the plants from running to seed, or ‘bolting,’ in dry weather. If they do bolt, they’ll no longer produce new leaves, so dig them up and add them to your compost pile.
Mulch the plants to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Keep your chard weeded using a hoe.
When plants are about 1 foot tall, cut leaves back to 3 to 5 inches to encourage new tender growth; if chard plants become overgrown, they become less flavorful.
Harvesting
Begin to harvest when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, depending on which size leaves you desire.
Cut off outer leaves 1-1/2 inches above the ground with a sharp knife. Avoid damaging the plant’s center. Eat what you cut.
Harvest regularly, and the plants will produce continually. Use the “cut-and-come-again” harvesting technique, taking the largest, oldest leaves and leaving the young ones to continue growing.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/swiss-chard
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from snhf.org

image from freepik 

Good morning, as I am writing this at 8:40 AM we have a clear blue sky but wait the temperature is cool at 29F but we have a NW wind a 13 mph, so it feels like 18. Cooler today with only a high of 42F because of the cold front that passed through.  For me in the greenhouse, it is a clear sky so the sun will warm the greenhouse up nicely.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for March 28 Saturday will have clear skies and a high of 67F(19C)  They had rain, and it was humid but now that has lessened with the rain.  Stay cool, I think maybe stay warm.  And stay safe. 
 
I am highlighting one perennial for the pollinators.  It is Gaillardia or blanket flower.  I will have them here from Swift’s Greenhouse as perennial.  As you read, it is easy to grow, and they are zonal for us to come back.  The question I will ask, if you have grown these how do they come back?  Let us know. 
​
Looking for a flower that delivers nonstop color and attracts pollinators without demanding much in return? Meet the blanket flower (Gaillardia). With their daisy-like petals painted in fiery shades of red, orange, and gold, these native wildflowers live up to their name by blanketing garden beds in sunset hues throughout summer and fall. Tough and resilient, they thrive in poor soil, laugh off heat and drought, and invite bees, butterflies, and even goldfinches to the party. Learn how to grow these natural beauties.
They are native to much of North America and can be found as wildflowers in prairie habitats. While originating in the western states and the Great Plains, blanket flowers are cold-hardy to USDA Zones 3 to 9 and are excellent for dry, hot gardens as they don’t need much water.
Most Gaillardia varieties are both annual and perennial types. Gaillardia pulchella is a relatively common annual, and G. aristata is a short-lived perennial. The most common type in home gardens is G. x grandiflora, which tends to be a short-lived perennial in most regions.
Gaillardia blooms in early summer and keeps flowering profusely all summer long. In autumn, the flowers—if not deadheaded—become golfball-shaped seed heads favored by goldfinches. They are a favorite of bees and other pollinators and are often visited by butterflies.
They are moderately deer-resistant or, at least, get nibbled less often than most other plants. Most Gaillardia are cold hardy and will survive to –20°F with mulching in cold winters. Once established, these native wildflowers require very little care.
When to Plant Gaillardia
Small plants purchased from the garden center can be hardened off and planted outside once the frosts are finished in spring.
Warm-climate gardeners can also plant perennial blanket flowers by seed in fall. Wait to sow outdoors until the soil has warmed enough to plant sweet corn and tomatoes. Like many perennials, some Gaillardia planted from seed will not flower the first year, while other varieties will.
Where to Plant Blanket Flowers
Blanket flowers thrive in sun. They aren’t picky about pH and will do well in dry, less fertile conditions but can’t handle wet sites. Excellent drainage is the most crucial factor when considering soil. Gaillardia doesn’t spread by vegetative means but often self-seeds to fill an area.
How to Grow Gaillardia
Deadheading blanket flowers will help encourage further blooms. If in a container on the deck, nip off spent blooms at the first leaf node weekly. For larger plantings in the garden, use hedge shears to give them a quick haircut and deadhead many spent blooms at once. Otherwise, leave flowers to become seedheads for an autumn bird attraction.
As most Gaillardia varieties are cold-hardy to USDA Zones 3–9 or 4–9, leave the old growth intact over winter to provide insect habitat. Then prune them down to about 2–3 inches above ground in early spring. If you live in the colder regions of their area, a 3–4 inch thick layer of mulch in late fall can help with overwintering. Remove the mulch in spring and apply a fresh, non-soggy layer.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/blanket-flowers-gaillardia
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from freepik 

Good morning.  Can you believe it is 50F(10C) with a high of 57F(14C). A cold front moving in so low tonight of 25F and a wind chill in the teens.  You must have the whole gambit of clothing available for this time of year, from being warm, to being cold.  Have to say it isn’t boring.  Be cool, then be warm, and mostly be safe. 
 
Australia family and friends have been having humid and wet week. Friday March 27 will be 100% rain with a high of 62F(16C) 
Evelyn wrote this: “We are to have quite a lot of rain for the rest of the week. So yesterday (March 24th) Tom got the lawns mown and I was raking up twigs and bark from gum trees and added them to the burn pile. It looks good out there. We had rain last night (March 23rd) , so it will be humid today. I am picking quite a lot of tomatoes at the moment and green beans.”   Stay dry and stay cool or stay warm.  Their fall is always changing as our spring is.  Interesting. 
 
I found this part of the article about Monarch butterflies interesting.  I didn’t realize they have 5 generations in a season.  So that is why we need to provide food for them all gardening seasons.  I will post the rest of this article on what to provide them at a different time.  Butterfly weed or orange milk weed looks like a good plant to have for them. 
 
We can all help monarch butterflies! Their numbers have plummeted by 90 percent in the past few decades.
The Monarch Migration
If you grow plentiful Asclepias tuberosa—orange milkweed (also called butterfly weed)—then you may be blessed with plenty of monarch butterflies. These gorgeous orange and black pollinators will shelter in your garden for months, from March until October.
Then, the monarch butterflies migrate south every fall—the only butterflies to migrate as birds do! They’ll fly over 3,000 miles with the Sun as their guide, traveling about 50 miles a day.
The eastern population, which makes up the bulk of the monarch population in North America, travels from as far north as southern Canada down south to the border regions of Texas and Mexico, arriving at their roosting sites in November, where they’ll hibernate for the winter.
Some monarchs that live west of the Rockies gather in southern California instead.
Monarchs may take as many as five generations to complete a migration south! Monarchs normally produce four generations in one calendar year. Each generation goes through a life cycle of four stages: egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (chrysalis), and adult butterfly. These four generations comprise four different butterflies that each go, consecutively, through the four stages during 1 year—until it is time to start with stage one and generation one again.
The 5 Monarch Generations
In February and March, monarchs come out of hibernation to find a mate. They then migrate north and east to find a place to lay their eggs.
This starts stage one and generation one. In March and April, the eggs are laid on milkweed plants. After about 4 days, they hatch into baby caterpillars, also called larvae. The baby caterpillar eats milkweed to grow. After about 2 weeks, when it’s full-grown, the caterpillar will find a place to attach itself to start the transformation process. It attaches itself to a stem or a leaf, and then, using silk, it spins and transforms into a chrysalis. Within the chrysalis, the old body parts of the caterpillar undergo metamorphosis to become a butterfly that will emerge in 10 days and fly away. It feeds on flowers and fruit in gardens for 2 to 6 weeks. This first-generation monarch butterfly will then die after laying eggs for generation number two.
The second generation of monarch butterflies is born in May and June, and then the third generation will be born in July and August. These monarch butterflies will go through exactly the same four-stage life cycle as the first generation did, dying 2 to 6 weeks after they become adult monarch butterflies. If the process starts early enough, there can even be a fourth generation in late August.
The final generation of monarch butterflies is different from the others. It’s born in September and October and goes through exactly the same process as the previous generations, except for one part: The butterflies don’t die after 2 to 6 weeks. Instead, they migrate to warmer climates like Texas, Mexico, and California, where they hibernate for 6 to 8 months until it is time to start the whole process over again.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/travel-safe-monarchs
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from landscape.solutions.net

image from Becky's Greenhouse 

Good morning.  I started to write this yesterday morning, and then got the phone call the plant truck from Natural Beauty will be here.  Unloaded 25 boxes, then I got a call that seed potatoes were in.   We went to pick them up.  Onion sets will be next week.  I worked on that and still will be working on it today.  Making room for all these plant plug trays when they are unpacked.  Full production and still enjoy it.    I will not count how many trays we go or the number of plants to be planted.  We will work on one plug tray at a time.  Cloudy this morning already.  Is the sun going to come out?  Sun or clouds determines what the temperature will be in the greenhouse.  High today is 55F(13C) but looking at the forecast cloudy all day.  Greenhouse will be pleasant to work in, not like Saturday when it was over 100F.  Stay warm, or maybe stay cool, but stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends March 25th Wednesday will have 85F(30C).  I would be thinking this is hot for them, so their summer weather is back.  Rain is moving back in, wondering if it is humid also?  Stay cool and stay safe. 
 
With the warm temperatures we are having you are wondering what I can do in the garden and flowerbeds.  Here are some helpful tips for that early spring gardening and what to do. 

Early Spring Gardening Tasks and Tips Written By:  Robin Sweetser
Spring may be calling, but in many parts of the country—especially in cooler regions—it’s important not to rush the season. Early spring gardening requires a gentle approach, allowing soil to dry, plants to wake naturally, and beneficial insects to emerge safely. After seeing gardens already in full bloom in warmer climates, it can be tempting to dive right in, but patience pays off. These early spring gardening tasks will help you clean up winter’s leftovers, protect tender growth, and prepare your garden for a healthy, productive growing season—without doing more harm than good.
Early Spring Gardening Chores
Wait for the right conditions: Avoid walking on soggy soil, which can compact and damage plant roots. If you must enter wet areas, use stepping stones or boards.
Correct frost damage: Gently press frost-heaved plants back into the soil to protect roots.
Peony tips are very brittle when they first emerge. Take care when cleaning up around them.
Preserve beneficial insects: Delay leaf and debris removal until temperatures consistently reach 50°F or higher. Many insects overwinter in garden debris.
Pick up winter debris: Start by gathering fallen branches and sticks, giving you a clear view of how plants survived the winter.
Rake carefully: Begin with early bloomers so they can poke through the soil without damage.
Prune and clip: Remove old leaves from hellebores and epimediums. Cut back ornamental grasses before new growth begins, leaving 8–12 inches above the crown. Remove broken rose canes. Wait to prune spring-blooming shrubs until after flowering.
Divide overgrown perennials: Early Spring is ideal for dividing and moving perennials before buds and leaves emerge.
Violets may be pretty in bloom, but they are a terrible weed in my garden. It’s easy to pull them out in early spring, and much more difficult if I wait until later.
Weed control: Remove early weeds before they get established—they are easier to manage now.
Soil testing: Test your soil in early spring to determine which amendments are needed before planting. See my tips on how to take a soil test.
Early vegetable planting: Cold-hardy crops like peas, lettuces, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets, and chards can be planted once the soil is ready. Use local planting guides or check soil temperature (e.g., peas need at least 45°F to germinate).
Pot summer bulbs: Give begonias and other summer-flowering bulbs a head start indoors or in protected areas.
By following these early spring gardening tips, you’ll protect your plants, the soil, and beneficial insects while setting yourself up for a productive and beautiful garden all season long.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/early-spring-gardening-tasks-how-wake-your-garden-right-way
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

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Good morning.  We are having summer like temperatures today.  Record highs of 83F(28C) and that makes it in the greenhouse over 100F which I am not used to yet.  I changed my hours of working out there this morning and will do the office work this afternoon.  I need to make sure everything stays well hydrated, including me.   Here everyone is going to enjoy this summer like day.  Stay safe and looking at next week more seasonable temperatures which will be more enjoyable for planting.
 
Australia family and friends for their Sunday March 22 will have I can’t believe it also 83F(28C).  Evelyn wrote that she would always say that this time of year with their dad, Arnold, that we have the same temperatures.   Stay cool, stay safe and enjoy. 
 
Hanging Baskets: Jewelry for the Garden By Ellen Zachos
I've always thought of hanging baskets as the costume jewelry of the gardening world. They add the finishing touch to your garden after the irrigation has been installed and the mulch has been laid. And like any good accessory, they should always be kept looking shiny and new.
 
Hanging baskets require special care. A big part of their appeal is their lush, overflowing appearance, which means hanging baskets must be planted tightly to achieve this look. They have reduced room for soil and retain less water than in-ground gardens. Hanging baskets are usually planted with soilless potting mix because it's lightweight. But these peat-based mixes contain very little nutrition, so hanging baskets also require more frequent fertilization than gardens planted in the ground.
Meticulous maintenance is the key to flourishing hanging baskets. Consistent deadheading keeps flowering annuals from going to seed and encourages continuous bloom, so you should do it at least once a week. Plants with large flowers or flower heads, like geraniums and petunias, should be deadheaded more frequently, as soon as their flowers begin to wilt. You'll also want to keep trailing plants from becoming leggy. To keep stems compact, cut back every other stem by a third when they start looking stretched and disproportionately long. Blue fan flower (Scaevola), Summer Wave trailing torenia varieties, and million bells (Calibrachoa) are good examples of annuals that benefits from this kind of trimming. Remove dead or yellow leaves whenever you walk past your basket. Impatiens may need this kind of de-leafing every few days.
Fertilize your hanging basket once every two weeks, using a balanced fertilizer. A soluble fertilizer delivers nutrients more quickly than granular fertilizers and is a better choice for hanging baskets.
Hanging baskets dry out fast; their volume of soil is relatively small and they're exposed to the elements from all sides. In hot weather, you may need to water your basket as often as every day. If you forget to water and the soil in your basket dries out so much that it pulls away from the edges, soak the entire basket in a tub of water for 30 minutes to hydrate the potting mix. If you can't soak the basket, water it thoroughly every two hours until the soil has fully expanded.
Keep your eyes open for pests and diseases. Because the plants in a hanging basket are placed so close together it's easy for pathogens to travel from plant to plant. Check your basket at least every other day and remove any leaves that show signs of disease (mold, mildew, or leaf spots). Nip any pest infestation in the bud by handpicking pests, removing the affected plant parts, or treating the plant with a lower-toxicity labelled pesticide such as insecticidal soap, neem oil, or pyrethrin. But keep in mind that even organically approved pesticides such as these can be harmful to bees; if you must apply them to flowering plants, do so in late evening when bees are not actively foraging.
Another way to keep your hanging baskets fresh is to replace annual plants selectively as they pass their prime. If you started the season with pansies surrounded by ivy, replace the pansies with verbena in June, then chrysanthemums in September.
Be attentive to your hanging baskets. They may not last as long as a favorite piece of jewelry, but a few well cared for, creative containers can perfectly accessorize your home and garden, adding the sparkle that will take your landscape from ″nice″ to ″wow!″
Ellen Zachos is the owner of Acme Plant Stuff (www.acmeplant.com), a garden design, installation, and maintenance company in NYC specializing in rooftop gardens and indoor plants. She is the author of numerous magazine articles and six books and also blogs at www.downanddirtygardening.com. Ellen is a Harvard graduate and an instructor at the New York Botanical Garden. She lectures at garden shows and events across the country.
Taken from https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/3951/Hanging-Baskets-Jewelry-for-the-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from Pinterest 

​I am adding a second post today as some of this information is interesting.   Hope you are enjoying the day as the weather is awesome.  Stay cool, stay safe. 
When does Spring start?  Written By: Catherine Boeckmann
Welcome, vernal equinox! Are you excited about the start of spring?
When Is the First Day of Spring 2026?
In 2026, the equinox happens on March 20 at 10:46 A.M. EDT. This falls on a Friday and is the astronomical beginning of the spring season in the Northern Hemisphere and the autumn season in the Southern Hemisphere.
If you thought that the spring equinox only ever occurred on March 21, you may be dating yourself. The civil calendar date of the equinox continues to shift every year.
What Is the Spring Equinox?
In the Northern Hemisphere, the spring equinox (also called the March equinox or vernal equinox across the globe) occurs when the Sun crosses the celestial equator going south to north. It’s called the celestial equator because it’s an imaginary line in the sky above Earth’s equator. Imagine standing on the equator; the Sun would pass directly overhead on its way north.
On the March equinox, the Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere receive roughly equal amounts of sunlight; neither hemisphere is tilted more toward or away from the Sun than the other.
Although in most locations (the North Pole and the equator being exceptions), the amount of daylight had been increasing each day after the winter solstice, and after the spring equinox, many places will experience more daylight than darkness in each 24-hour day. The amount of daylight each day will continue to increase until the summer solstice (in June), when the longest period of daylight occurs.
Here’s an interesting fact: Equinoxes are the only two times of year when the Sun rises due east and sets due west for all of us on Earth! While the Sun passes overhead, the tilt of Earth is zero relative to the Sun, which means that Earth’s axis neither points toward nor away from the Sun. (Note, however, that Earth never orbits upright but is always tilted on its axis by about 23.5 degrees.)
What Does Equinox Mean?
The word equinox comes from the Latin words for equal night—aequus (equal) and nox (night). On the equinox, the length of day and night is nearly equal in all parts of the world.
Are Day and Night Equal on the Equinox?
Quite close! In reality, day and night are not exactly equal on the equinox. Daytime begins the moment any part of the Sun appears over the horizon and is not finished until the last part of the Sun disappears below the horizon. If the Sun were to shrink to a starlike point—and we lived in a world without air—the spring and fall equinoxes would truly have equal nights.
According to folklore, you can stand a raw egg on its end on the Equinox. Is this true?
This egg folklore became popular in 1945 following a LIFE article about the spring practice. “The origins of this myth are attributed to stories that the ancient Chinese would create displays of eggs standing on end during the first day of spring,” according to John Millis, assistant professor of physics and astronomy at Anderson University in South Carolina. “The ancient Chinese celebrated the first day of spring about six weeks earlier than the equinox”—not just on the equinox itself.
As with most folklore, it’s only partly true. You should be able to balance an egg on its end on the equinox, but it’s possible to balance an egg on other days, too!
Folklore or not, this egg trick sounded like fun to us. One spring, a few minutes before the vernal equinox, several Almanac editors tried this trick. For a full workday, 17 out of 24 eggs stood on end. Three days later, we tried this trick again and found similar results. Perhaps 3 days after the equinox was still too near. Perhaps the equinox has nothing to do with it. Perhaps we just don’t like to take ourselves too seriously!
Try this yourself and let us know what happens. (Tip: You’ll probably have better luck balancing an egg if you try it on a rough surface—or use an egg that has a bumpy end.)
Get outside! Look around. Are worms and grubs reappearing? (The March Full Moon is called the “Worm Moon” for this very reason!)
Watch the arc of the Sun across the sky as it shifts toward the north. Birds are migrating northward, along with the path of the Sun.
Are you noticing that the days are getting longer? Did you know that the increasing sunlight inspires birds to sing? Cool, eh? Enjoy our Bird Songs page.
Are daffodils poking up their heads? Trees, shrubs, and flowers are sensitive to temperature and day length, too! Since ancient days, people have used natural events as indicators of when the weather is right for planting. For example: Blooming crocus are your cue to plant radishes, parsnips, and spinach. See more of nature’s signs.
Can you feel the Sun getting stronger? The longer days bring high temperatures. Both we and the animals around us discard our warm clothes and heavy coats!
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/first-day-spring-vernal-equinox
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from lovethispic.com 

First day of Spring.  How we have all been waiting for this.  Also going to feel like spring.  Enjoy.  What a difference a week can make.  Still remember all the wind last weekend, and then the winter storm on Sunday.  High today will be 69F(20C). It was very warm, slight breeze out of the NNW.  Stay cool and stay safe. 
 
Australia family and friends for March 21, Saturday will have 71F(21C).  Similar temperatures isn’t that something.  They are having fall weather as we are having spring weather. Stay cool and stay safe. 
 
First day of Spring!  So much will start changing and more like spring.  I am going to ask you a couple of questions to share.  What signs of spring have you seen?  And what is your favorite part of spring?  Please take time to just post a simple answer, all of us would love to hear from you. 

1. Mine favorite about spring is when it rains, it will smell like spring a fresh and clean smell. 
2. Days getting longer and with daylight savings time makes our evenings seem less dark
3. Robins have had 2 snows on their tails.  Will we get the third? 
4. Boxes and boxes of plug plants coming in to be planted
5. I heard a BIG A go out from the elevator.  Has spring farming started?
6. Seed potatoes, onion sets will be here next week
7. Very pregnant mommy kitties
8. Are the Junco snowbirds still here?  If so, will we get more snow?
9. Have you seen any earthworms?  Another sign of spring
10. Maple trees are starting to bud out.  That leads to honeybees coming out to get pollen.  According to Story book Honey.

Now just put in comments your thoughts about spring, what you like?  Or what have you seen to be spring?  We all love to hear from you. 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from balconygardenweb.com 

image from syngentoflowers.com 

WOW it is an awesome day. Clear, blue sky.  Temperature is mild, and very little wind.  This is the start of a warmup for the first day of spring which is tomorrow.  Saturday high in the 70’s.  But then Sunday will be back to 40’s.  All I can say is just enjoy.  Stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Friday March 20 will 71F(21C) to me that sounds like another mild fall day for them.  Enjoy and stay safe. 
 
I was researching new plants I am growing this year.  The growers have them labeled as Dipladenia/Mandeville Flor White Halo and Dipladenia/Mandeville Madinia Maximo Red.  I found this very interesting when they are different plants. 
I will grow the Madinia Maximo red as a climber, and the Flor White Halo as a mounded plant.  I will have a look at the leaves to see if the difference Is in the Mandeville and the Dipladenia for which ones I am growing.  Give this a read and see if you can help with the difference besides how they grow.  That is your assignment. 

​Dipladenia: A Tropical Beauty for Your Garden  written by Donna
Dipladenia is a stunning tropical plant that can add a touch of the exotic to your garden. It’s a close relative of the popular Mandeville vine, but it has a few unique characteristics that make it a great choice for both indoor and outdoor spaces.
Dipladenia vs. Mandevilla
While Dipladenia and Mandeville are both members of the same family, they have some key differences. Mandevilla is a climbing vine that can reach heights of up to 20 feet, while Dipladenia is a bushier plant that typically grows to be around 3-5 feet tall. Dipladenia also has finer leaves and smaller flowers than Mandeville.
Dipladenia Facts
Growth habit: Dipladenia is a bushier plant with stems that grow down and hang.
Foliage: Dipladenia leaves are fine and pointed, deeply green and slightly glossy.
Flowers: Dipladenia flowers are trumpet-shaped and come in a wide range of colors, including pink, white, yellow, and red.
Pollinator magnet: Dipladenia flowers are a vibrant signal to pollinators, such as hummingbirds and bees.
Growing Dipladenia
Dipladenia is a relatively easy plant to grow, but it does have some specific requirements.
Temperature: Dipladenia prefers warm temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Water: Water dipladenia frequently in the summer, but let the top few inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Light: Dipladenia needs bright but indirect sun.
Soil: Dipladenia prefers well-drained soil.
Fertilizer: Fertilize dipladenia every three to four weeks during the growing season with a liquid plant food.
Dipladenia Care
Dipladenia is a low-maintenance plant, but there are a few things you can do to keep it looking its best.
Pinch back: Pinch off gangly growth when the plant is young to force thicker, stronger branches.
Stake: Dipladenia may need a stake to keep it upright as it matures.
Overwintering: Bring dipladenia indoors or into a greenhouse for the winter. Suspend fertilizing during the winter months.
Dipladenia as an Indoor Plant
Dipladenia is a great choice for indoor gardeners. It can be grown in a pot or hanging basket and will bloom profusely with proper care.
Temperature: Keep dipladenia in a warm spot with temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light: Place dipladenia in a bright but indirect light location.
Water: Water dipladenia regularly, but allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
Fertilizer: Fertilize dipladenia every three to four weeks during the growing season with a liquid plant food.
Tips for Growing Dipladenia
Start with a healthy plant: Choose a dipladenia plant that is free of pests and diseases.
Plant in well-drained soil: Dipladenia does not like to sit in wet soil, so make sure to plant it in a pot or bed with good drainage.
Water regularly: Dipladenia needs regular watering, especially during the hot summer months.
Fertilize regularly: Fertilize dipladenia every three to four weeks during the growing season to encourage blooming.
Pinch back: Pinch off gangly growth to encourage bushier growth.
Overwinter indoors: Bring dipladenia indoors for the winter if you live in a cold climate.
With a little care, dipladenia will reward you with beautiful flowers and lush foliage for many years to come.
Taken from https://www.gardeningtipsandtools.com/tropical-plants/dipladenia-a-tropical-beauty-for-your-garden/
 
Growing A Dipladenia Plant - Learn The Difference Between Dipladenia And Mandevilla  By Bonnie L. Grant
Dipladenia is in the Mandevilla family but has a decidedly different growth pattern. Mandevilla vines climb up vertical structures to seek the canopy light. Dipladenia is a bushier plant whose stems grow down and hang.
The two plants have similar brightly colored flowers, but mandevilla has a larger flower typically in red. Both plants need the same bright light and dipladenia care is the same as that for the mandevilla vine. When deciding between a mandevilla or dipladenia, the finer leaves and smaller flowers in a wide range of colors may win the day for the dipladenia.
The only difference between mandevilla and dipladenia care is that mandevillas require a trellis or staking. Dipladenia only needs a stake to keep the little plant straight as it matures. Fertilize every three to four weeks during the growing season with a liquid plant food, like this Miracle-Gro Pour & Feed Plant Food from Amazon, as part of good dipladenia care.
 Overwinter indoors or in a greenhouse and suspend fertilizing in winter. With a little luck, even northern gardeners can keep the plant growing indoors until the heat of summer arrives.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/vines/mandevilla/growing-a-dipladenia.htm
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse

image from publicdomainpictures.com 

The sun is up in a clear, blue sky.  It is going to warm up to 40F(4C) but right now at 8:30 AM it is cold out.  With all the snow, warming up will take a little longer. Just know that each day it will get warmer and believe it or not 70F(20C) on Saturday.  I will be busy keeping all plants well-watered and somewhat cool in the greenhouse.  Hopefully this is our last winter storm of this magnitude for this winter season.  See how the end of March comes out.  Stay warm, stay safe.
 
Australia family and friends for Thursday March 19 will have a high of 70F(20C).  To me, that sounds like a nice fall day for them.  ENJOY and stay safe. 
 
Here are some ideas for creating a pollinator garden.  Even if you don’t make a whole bed of these, the plants listed could be used in your gardens or containers.  I hope to have a handout on these plants, and also on the plants themselves so you know what the pollinators enjoy.
Pollinators are not just bees.   A pollinator is anything that helps move pollen from one part of a flower to another. This movement fertilizes a plant, helping make seeds, fruits, and new plants. Some plants can pollinate themselves, and others use wind or water to move their pollen. But many plants need help from insects and animals like bees, butterflies, birds, bats, and even some small mammals.
 
Pollinators visit flowers to find food, shelter, and nest-building materials. Some pollinators, like bees, collect pollen on purpose. Others, like butterflies or birds, move pollen by accident as they move. As they drink nectar or land on flowers, pollen sticks to their bodies and gets carried to the next flower they visit. Give some thought to add these plants to your gardens. 
 
How to Create a Pollinator Garden: Easy Steps and Best Plants for Beginners
Written By:  Lauren Landers
You don’t need experience—or a big yard—to create a pollinator garden. Just a few well-chosen plants, a bit of know-how, and a quick and easy DIY project or two can transform your garden into a pollinator paradise that’s irresistible to bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and more.
Here are just a few of my favorite must-have pollinator plants, but you can find many more plants that draw in bees, hummingbirds, and other wildlife!
Annuals
Zinnias
Cosmos
Nasturtiums
Sunflowers
Sweet Alyssum
Basil
Dill
Lantana
 
perennials
 Milkweed
Coneflowers
Joe Pye Weed
Cardinal Flower
Yarrow
Blazing Star
Alliums
Thyme
Asters
Goldenrod
 
Shrubs
Buttonbush
Serviceberry
Chokeberry
Summer Sweet
Purple Flower Raspberry
Blueberries
Winterberry
New Jersey Tea
Fast Facts
A true pollinator garden is more than flowers; it prioritizes mainly native plants that actually feed local pollinators—a mix of nectar- and pollen-rich blooms. It also provides continuous, season-long food and safe shelter.
Beyond bees and butterflies, many other insects pollinate plants, including beetles, moths, wasps, and ants.
Honeybees live in hives, but they’re actually native to Europe. Most native North American bees are solitary and live in the ground, plant stems, or old leaf litter.
A single bumblebee can pollinate around 6,000 flowers each day!
What Is a Pollinator Garden?
Pollinator gardens are spaces specifically designed to meet the needs and preferences of pollinators. These spaces can vary in size and design, but they typically include a variety of food and sheltering plants that pollinators love and may also offer other pollinator resources, such as water. Pollinator gardens are also generally kept free of pesticides to ensure that any pollinators that visit stay safe.
While pollinator gardens have been growing in popularity for years, they are becoming increasingly more important for pollinator survival. Today, pollinator populations are declining due to habitat loss, climate change, and other stressors. But by offering food, shelter, and nesting sites, pollinator gardens can help to counteract habitat fragmentation and serve as waystations for migrating monarch butterflies and hummingbirds.
Planning a Pollinator Garden
Pollinator gardens can be as diverse as the plants you grow in them, but if you want these spaces to be as attractive to pollinators as possible, there are a few simple guidelines to keep in mind.
Different pollinators are attracted to different types of flowers, so it’s a good idea to include a range of plants with different flower shapes, colors, and bloom times. Bees tend to be attracted to blue, purple, yellow, and white blooms, while hummingbirds favor orange and red flowers that are long and tubular. Butterflies, on the other hand, usually flock to flowers with wide, flat blooms, which make easy landing pads and accommodate their wider wingspan.
Although you can find many plants that appeal to pollinators, looking for plants that are native to your area is wise. Native plants are 4 times more attractive to pollinators than non-native species, but including some non-native ornamentals in your planting design is perfectly fine.
Layout
Pollinator gardens can range in size from extensive flowerbeds planted with a wide variety of flowers to a few porch pots or window boxes filled with plants that pollinators love. The only limit is your imagination and the amount of space you have for plants.
When planting for pollinators, I like to grow at least three of the same types of plants together in proximity. This technique, known as “drift” planting, makes flowers easier for pollinators to spot and feed from, but it also gives gardens and planters a more natural look. I’ll also stack taller plants toward the rear of my beds and shorter flowers closer to the sides to ensure all the plants I grow get enough light.
If you don’t want to grow a fully dedicated pollinator garden, you can also simply slip a few pollinator-friendly plants into your established flowerbeds or veggie garden. This will make these spaces more appealing to pollinators without requiring a full garden overhaul.
How to Create a Pollinator Garden
The amount of prep work you’ll need to do before starting a pollinator garden will vary depending on the status of your current garden space. If you’ve already been growing annuals and perennials in your beds, you may just want to refresh the soil with a layer of compost before planting. However, suppose you’re starting a brand-new bed and your soil is lacking to begin with. In that case, you may want to conduct a soil test, add a layer of compost or other amendments, or potentially even build and fill a few raised beds if you have poorly draining soil or your garden is naturally rocky.
Getting on top of weeds before you start planting is also wise and can make future gardening much easier. You can do this by hand-pulling them or by smothering weeds with cardboard or tarps for a few weeks before you intend to plant.
Location
Pollinator beds can be placed in either sunny or shady areas. However, the amount of light your beds receive will determine the types of plants you’ll be able to grow. Pollinator-friendly rain gardens can even be located in poorly draining spots that stay wet year-round as long as you choose water-tolerant plants to grow in them.
Aside from light access and soil, pollinator gardens should also be positioned away from busy roadways, if possible, and far from areas regularly treated with pesticides. It’s also a good idea to place them in slightly sheltered spots, as windy locations can make it harder for pollinators to fly about and feed.
Plants That Attract Pollinators
Native plants are, by far, the best picks for pollinators, but many non-native perennials, shrubs, annuals, and flowering herbs are also highly attractive to pollinators. For best results, try including a range of plants with different flowering times to ensure pollinators have a ready source of pollen and nectar no matter when they visit. You may also want to include host plants, like milkweed or dill, which are important food sources for developing monarch and swallowtail caterpillars.
Maintenance
Pollinator gardens will need to be watered and weeded just like any standard garden, although beds planted with native plants will often require minimal watering once established. I like to freshen up my beds by adding an annual layer of compost over the soil in fall, followed by a layer of mulch. This replenishes the soil slowly and allows me to avoid using any fertilizer.
Because pollinator gardens are intended for pollinators, it’s important to keep these spaces free from pesticides. For natural pest control, I rely primarily on barriers like row covers, hand-picking, and companion planting. However, if you do need to use pesticides in your beds, stick to organic products, apply only targeted applications, and never use them on plants that monarch caterpillars feed on, such as milkweed.
Tips
Starting a pollinator garden with the right plants is important. But there are other ways to make your space even more appealing to pollinators. If you want to see more hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, here are a few more tricks to try:
Add feeders. Installing a hummingbird feeder and regularly refreshing it with a good cleaning and fresh nectar will help attract even more hummingbirds. While you’re at it, you may also want to make a simple butterfly feeder by laying out a pie pan filled with cut-up fruit, such as apples, oranges, and bananas.
Include a water feature. Deep birdbaths can prove hazardous to small pollinators. You can work around this by adding clean pebbles to one side of your birdbath so pollinators can scramble out, or by installing a solar-powered fountain in your birdbath or a misting attachment to your garden hose.
Leave the leaves. Many pollinators overwinter in old leaf litter, so it’s best to leave autumn leaves in your flowerbeds through winter. Once spring temperatures are consistently above 50°F, it’s safe to start raking!
Make a bee house. Most pollinating bees are solitary (honeybees are non-native to agriculture). These bees live alone, not in hives. Bee hotels are places for solitary bees to make their nests. They can be purchased at garden centers or made at home from the stems of hollow plants.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-create-pollinator-garden
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa [email protected]  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365  Beckysgreenhouse.com  Facebook Becky Kerndt Litterer or Becky’s Greenhouse