image from myrecipes.com 

     Question: First (Blank) (Blank) hare.
(What’s the saying? Fill in the blanks!)
 
COLD out this morning.  Temperature at 8:30 AM is 26 degrees.  Wind blowing so it feels colder.  High today of only 39 degrees.  Still winding out up to 25 MPH.  Tonight, a low of 20. If this is March going out like a lion, not too bad.  Stay safe.

Answer to that question about planting potatoes, April 2.  This is what you need to ask yourself.  What is the soil temperature?  and is the soil too soggy or will get too soggy?  

Potatoes do best in full sun. They can be planted in the early spring two to four weeks prior to the expected last frost date in your area. Seed potatoes planted in soil that is too cold or soggy may rot. Generally, potatoes will not grow until the soil temperature has reached at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit. You can plant a second crop as late as June 15 and harvest the potatoes as late as possible. Potato plants will tolerate a light frost, but protect plants from freezes with row covers, or harvest them before a freeze arrives.
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GARDENING  PLANTS & FLOWERS  VEGETABLES
How to Plant Seed Potatoes  Written by Marie Iannotti
Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow, but rather than planting them from seeds produced by the flowers of the plant, they are generally grown by planting portions of the root structure, known as seed potatoes. Potatoes grow more expediently by this kind of vegetative propagation, and for most home gardeners the process is easier than growing from seeds.
What Is a Seed Potato?
Though its name may be deceptive, seed potatoes aren't actually seeds; they're tubers that you can use to grow new potatoes that will be genetically identical to the parent potato. Similar to any other seed, seed potatoes are potatoes whose purpose is to be replanted and eventually produce more potatoes.
When to Plant Seed Potatoes
Potatoes do best in full sun. They can be planted in the early spring two to four weeks prior to the expected last frost date in your area. Seed potatoes planted in soil that is too cold or soggy may rot. Generally, potatoes will not grow until the soil temperature has reached at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit. You can plant a second crop as late as June 15 and harvest the potatoes as late as possible. Potato plants will tolerate a light frost, but protect plants from freezes with row covers, or harvest them before a freeze arrives.
Working With Potatoes
Potatoes are aggressively rooting plants and will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a pH of 5.0 to 7.0—acidic to neutral. However, potatoes are prolific growers and usually adapt to poor soil and climate conditions. Make sure to rotate where you plant potatoes in the garden, as soil-borne diseases can linger in the ground and affect future crops.
When selecting seed potatoes, do not use the potatoes you buy at the grocery store. Grocery produce is often treated with a growth inhibitor, which keeps potatoes fresher longer but also prevents sprouting or stunts growth.
Organically grown potatoes may be free of growth inhibitors, but they are prone to any diseases carried over from their growth period (such as ring rot or fusarium wilt). You need disease-free, certified seed potatoes. Before planting, examine the seed potatoes and discard any that have soft spots, cracks, bruises, or signs of rotting.
Before you plant, you may also decide to "chit" (pre-sprout) the potatoes. If you decide to encourage stem growth on your potatoes, this process will add two to four weeks to the process. However, many gardeners find that chitting potatoes produces a quicker, slightly larger potato.
Project Metrics
Working Time    30 minutes
Total Time           4 weeks (depending on if you chit your potatoes)
Material Cost     Approximately $1 per pound of seed potatoes
What You'll Need
materials for planting seed potatoes
 The Spruce / Sandhya Moraes
Equipment/Tools
Knife
Materials
Seed potatoes
Powdered sulfur (optional)
Bag (optional)
Egg carton, box, tray, or screen (optional)
Instructions
Chit the Potatoes (Optional)
Although potatoes will sprout in the dark, you will get long, pale shoots that easily break. Instead, place them in a cool spot with bright light for 2 to 4 weeks. This way, the sprouts will grow stocky, sturdy, and dark green. This process is also called greening. You can place your seed potatoes upright in an egg carton or box, on a tray, or screen with the majority of buds ("eyes") facing up. Do not pile them atop one another. You can start this process one month before your outdoor planting date.
Cut the Potatoes (Optional)
You do not need to plant a whole, intact potato. Seed potatoes can be cut into pieces. Each piece should have at least one "eye" each—a bud that will sprout into a new plant. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the seed potatoes into 2-inch squares. If you are going to cut them, do it about two days before you plan to plant. This allows the pieces to form a callus or seal, which prevents rotting while the pieces sprout and take root. If your seed potato is smaller than a ping pong ball, though, plant it whole.
Plant the Sprouted Potatoes
Plant the potatoes as soon as the sprouts are 1/2 inch to 1 inch long. Handle the seed potatoes carefully, so the sprouts do not break off or become damaged. Plant with the sprouts facing up and cover lightly with soil. If you've cut the seed potatoes, make sure the cut side is facing down.
Plant in Rows
Potatoes grow best planted in rows spaced 3 feet apart. Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep. Place cut side down, with eyes facing up. Space the seed potatoes 12 to 15 inches apart. Fill the trench with 4 inches of soil. As the plants grow, add more soil, mounding it up around the plants.
Water Well
Keep potatoes well-watered throughout summer, especially when flowering. During flowering, the plants begin to create the tubers—the edible potatoes. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water per week to produce well.
Harvest the Mature Potatoes
When foliage turns yellow, discontinue watering to begin the curing process for harvesting. You can harvest baby, or "new" potatoes two to three weeks after flowering ceases. Dig around the plants carefully to remove new potatoes for fresh eating, and leave the smaller potatoes to continue growing.
For potatoes you plan to store, harvest the crop two to three weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully loosen the potatoes with a garden fork and remove them from the bed. If the weather is dry, leave the potatoes in the garden, unwashed, for two to three days to cure, or move them to a protected area, such as a garage or shed, to cure.
Seed Potato Tips
You do not have to chit the potatoes to get a good crop. However, you might want to chit your potatoes if you notice them beginning to sprout or if you want an earlier harvest date. If you plan to eventually cut them before planting them, chit before cutting them.
When planting whole seed potatoes or pieces of potatoes, in general, more eyes per piece equals more potatoes. Smaller potatoes with one or two eyes per piece mean fewer potatoes, but they will be larger.
To further protect your seed potatoes, you can dust them with powdered sulfur right after cutting them. Place the potatoes in a bag, add the sulfur and shake. Then lay the pieces out and let them dry for three to four days.
If you have to postpone planting because of weather or some other reason, move the seed potatoes to a cooler spot to slow down their growth. Don't wait too long; the potatoes may start to dehydrate and shrivel.
On average, one pound of seed potatoes should yield about 10 pounds of edible potatoes. One pound of seed potatoes should plant a 5- to 8-foot row, depending on the variety.
Potatoes also perform well in grow bags, which is a good alternative if you have issues with voles in the garden. Fill a grow bag halfway with potting mix, plant the seed potatoes, and continue to add more soil to the bag as the potatoes grow. To harvest, spread out a tarp or sheet, and dump the bag. Kids especially enjoy sorting through the bag to find potatoes!
Taken from https://www.thespruce.com/what-are-seed-potatoes-
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell `641-903-9365
 
Answer: 1) catch 2) your

image from old farmers almanac.com  

     Question: How does the transposition of the parts of a word express the difference between a welcome and a wish for your departure?
    Weather has changed today.  Cool front came in.  Temperature at 8:25 AM is 35 degrees. High today of 45 degrees which is 10 degrees below normal.  So that helps with the average when the temperature has been 10-15 degrees above normal.  All comes out as that average.  Windy still and predicted cloudy to partly cloudy skies.  See what happens.  It is still March in IOWA. 
HOW TO GROW YOUR OWN SALAD GREENS
TRY GROWING YOUR OWN SALAD THIS YEAR!  By Robin Sweetser
Growing your own salad greens will put a world of fresh ingredients at your fingertips. Whether you are a gourmet salad lover who likes to experiment with interesting greens or someone who just wants to have your own homegrown lettuce, your choices are only limited by the seeds you can find and the space you have.
TYPES OF SALAD GREENS
We always think of spinach and lettuce as the main spring greens, but there are many more to choose from. Look to the east—Asian greens such as napa cabbage, tatsoi, pac choi (or “bok choy”), mibuna, santoh, and hon tsai tai are especially suited to growing in cool spring weather. If you have never tasted any of these greens, then you are in for a treat. Some are hot and spicy, while others are quite mild. They can be eaten raw or cooked and will add flavor to any salad or stir-fry.
If you are lacking garden space, try growing salad greens in containers.
Depending on your taste buds, you can grow mild, tender greens like claytonia, chard, and mache, or bitter greens like endive, escarole, and radicchio. If you want to add a peppery tang to your salads, try mustard, mizuna, broadleaf cress, or arugula.
Lettuce is the obvious choice for a salad garden and there are many spring lettuces to choose from. Try a delicate butterhead, tasty heirloom crisphead, or colorful leaf lettuce. Plant them as soon as the ground can be worked. Lettuce seeds will germinate in soil as cold as 40°F (5°C).
“CUT-AND-COME-AGAIN” GREENS
There are ready-made salad mixes that offer a wide variety of textures, colors, and flavors. Look for mesclun or misticanza mixes, or make up your own custom blend using seeds for your family’s favorite greens. Lettuces and greens that will continue to grow after being given a haircut are called “cut-and-come-again” in many catalogs.
GROWING AND HARVESTING SALAD GREENS
The key to having perfect greens is to grow them under row covers, which help to keep them relatively clean and bug-free.
Many row covers are made from spun-bonded polypropylene, a material that is light-, water-, and air-permeable, and very lightweight. Most allow 70%-90% light transmission. Covers help to moderate temperature and give a few degrees of frost protection, too. They can be supported by wire hoops or just laid over the plants and held in place with rocks and soil. Unlike plastic, this breathable material won’t cook your plants on a hot sunny day.
 
One simple way to grow your cut-and-come-again greens is to rake the prepared seedbed smooth and broadcast the seed evenly or sow it in wide bands to make harvesting easier.
To keep a continuous supply of greens, plant a small section of the bed every two weeks. Cover the seeds lightly with soil and tamp down. Keeping the seedbed moist while the seeds are germinating is important and the row covers will help to keep moisture in. Greens are mostly water and will suffer a setback if allowed to wilt. When the plants emerge, keep the row covers in place and well-anchored on all sides. Only remove them when harvesting. This is a very effective way to foil flea beetles, the bane of the early spring garden. Tiny, black hopping specks no more than 2mm long, they will leave your lettuce riddled with small holes.
To pick your greens, carefully shear the young plants with scissors, leaving the growing center of the plant intact. Water and lightly fertilize the plants, cover them up with the row cover, and in no time at all, they will regrow and be ready for another harvest.
If you don’t have a lot of room, try growing salad greens in a pallet garden (pictured above). Wrap landscape fabric around the back and sides of a wooden pallet, then fill the openings with soil and plant your seeds or starter plants. When the plants have taken root and begun to grow, simply stand the pallet upright in a sunny location.
Turn just a small part of your backyard into a salad-lover’s dream garden and soon you’ll be harvesting a bounty of flavorful greens.
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-grow-your-own-salad-greens
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-+794-3337  cell 641-903-9365

​
Answer: Wel-fare and fare-well.

image from chaoticallycreative.com

     ​Question: I hire parsons. (Form a single word from this sentence.)  Play on the word.
       Temperature at 8:00 AM is at 39 degrees.  High today of 61 but will have up to 40 MPH winds.  Clear, blue sky so will be a good growing day in the greenhouse.  LOTS of planting we have to do.  Enjoy and stay safe. 
When you’re sowing your garden seeds, do it right!  Sow seeds more easily with seed tape, soak your seeds to boost germination rates, and speed up germination with our excellent tips!
1. SPACE OUT SEEDS WITH SEED TAPE
Do you find it hard to space out your seeds accurately? Then make your own seed tape. This method is perfect for spacing out smaller seeds.
For this you’ll need some toilet paper, a paste made from equal parts flour and water, and your seeds. Start by rolling out enough toilet paper to run the length of your row. Place a daub of paste at the correct spacing on the paper using an artist’s brush. Drop two seeds onto each daub of paste. Then fold over the toilet paper. The paste will help to hold it all together.
After drying, the seed tapes can be labeled then rolled up and stored until you’re ready to sow. To sow simply unravel the tape into the seed drill and cover to the correct depth with soil. Water along the row and, hey presto, they’re ready to grow!
You can also make squares of pre-sown seeds using paper towel. The same method applies: daub on your paste, add your seeds, then sandwich with another layer of towel. These squares are great if you grow your plants in blocks, for example if you’re using the square foot gardening method.
2. SOW TINY SEEDS SUCCESSFULLY
Tiny seeds such as carrots are notoriously tricky to sow evenly. Make the task easier by mixing the seeds with fine, dry sand.
Thoroughly mix together a pinch of seeds with a couple of teaspoons of sand, then sprinkle along your seed drill. Now fill in the seed drill.
3. SPEED UP GERMINATION OF BIG SEEDS
Large seeds or seeds with a tough seed coat will germinate quicker if their coats are first punctured or softened, just before you want to plant them. This allows the water and gases necessary for germination to enter the seed faster.
A simple way to do this is to gently roll your seeds between two sheets of sandpaper until the seed coat just starts to rub off. Stop at this point or you risk damaging the seeds.
Or, soak your seeds in a bowl of lukewarm water for 24 hours. Soaking is an easy way to soften a hard seed coat to spark germination.
Good candidates for pre-soaking include: peas, beans, okra, corn, gourds, and squash. Parsley seeds also benefit from soaking for 48 hours, with a change of water halfway through.
4. MAKE SEEDS EASIER TO IDENTIFY AND GET RID OF WEEDS
Some seeds are hard to make out against the dark soil. A simple way around this is to line your seed drill with toilet paper. The white background makes it easier to see your seeds and to space them evenly along the row.
Using a label will help you to locate rows of seeds, but if you want to be certain you can backfill your seed drill with potting soil so that it stands out from the surrounding soil. This is particularly useful once they start to grow, as it helps you to differentiate seedlings you’ve planted from weeds which need removing.
One other method is to mix quick-growing seeds such as radishes with slow growers like parsnips. The radishes will germinate within a few days to mark the location of the row. They’ll be harvested long before the parsnips grow big enough to need that extra space.
5. PRE-SPROUT SEEDS TO SPEED GERMINATION
Another way to work with seeds that have a long germination time is to chit them – that simply means encouraging the seeds to sprout before planting them in the soil. This method works particularly well for those seeds that can take weeks to germinate, especially in cool weather. You can also use it for any early-planted seeds to speed things up.
Start by lining a sealable container with a couple of sheets of damp paper towel. Space out the seeds over the surface then add two more layers of damp paper towel over the top. Press on the lid. Keep the container in a warm place at about 65 to 70ºF. As soon as the seeds are showing tiny roots they are ready to plant. Don’t delay planting or the roots may end up distorted or forked. You needn’t worry about planting them the right way up - the seeds will naturally send the roots downwards.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/5-garden-hacks-seed-sowing-success
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa 641-794-3337  cwll 641-903-9365
 
Answer: Parishioners

image from Pinterest 

      ​Question: Why does a man paving the streets correct the public morals?  GOOD ONE…some of you will get this one right, not me but it made me smile.
The temperature at 8:45 AM is at 38 degrees but clear sky except for a few wispy clouds.  High today of 50 rain in the forecast but it looks like it will be south of us.  Tonight, low of 32 Not much wind, so all in all looks like a great day.  ENJOY, stay safe. 
You all know I have been doing this greenhouse for a long time. 32nd season.  Yesterday I had help from grandchildren, and it was a good time.  They all were good help.  2nd generation working at the greenhouse.  Many family own greenhouses have this experience and I am so glad I can share mine with them.  Today and I will be doing for the next weeks is planting.  We have things moved around and ready to just keep planting one plug tray at a time.  Pansy that were planted a month ago are starting to bloom so that is great to see. 
Here is some information about pansy one of the earliest annual plants we pick up that is in full bloom. 
VARIETIES OF PANSIES  By Robin Sweetser
Flowers are starting to appear for sale in the garden centers—and that means pansies. Get to know this old-fashioned “flower with a face” and discover different varieties!
GROWING PANSIES
Often gardeners overlook pansies as being temporary “throw-away” plants but most are actually half-hardy annuals meaning you should get at least two seasons of bloom from them. Plant breeders have been working to make them not only larger flowered but longer lasting and more heat- and cold- tolerant.
To insure a longer bloom span you can do your part by planting them where they get morning sun but are shaded from hot afternoon sun. Deadhead them often to keep them from setting seeds, water and fertilize regularly, mulch them, and don’t be afraid to pinch them back to encourage new growth. Frost won’t faze them. They can survive dips into the single digits and recover to bloom again.
‘Bingo’ and ‘Nature’ are two of the most cold hardy pansy varieties. Heat is a little more of a problem. When the night temperatures rise your pansies will take a break from blossoming. Keep the plants mulched and watered and they will perk up and begin to bloom again in the fall when the temps cool down. Pansies are also a great flower to plant in the fall. Try them instead of mums. They will bloom until really cold weather sets in. If well-mulched the plants can winter over in many areas of the country and be one of the first to blossom in your spring garden. I had one variety, called ‘Four Seasons’, winter over here in New Hampshire successfully but I’m sure there are other hardy ones out there.
PRETTY PANSY VARIETIES
There are so many colors and combinations to choose from that it is hard to decide on just one.
I love the classic “monkey face” pansies that my grandmother grew. To really enjoy their faces plant them in pots or window boxes where you can see them up close.
But pansies are more than just a pretty face, some are solid colors with no faces at all.
Others like ‘Ultima Morpho’ have whiskered cat faces.
There are ones with ruffled edges like ‘Flirty Skirts’ and ‘Ballerina’, and trailing pansies like ‘Cool Wave’ and ‘Waterfall’ that spread up to 2 feet, excellent for hanging baskets. ‘Colossus’ has giant flowers 3-4 inches across, and ‘Moulin Rouge’ has thick, stiff stems making it perfect for cutting.
The so-called antiques such as ‘Panola’ and ‘Mariposa Peach’ have soft, watercolor shades while ’Jolly Joker’ is garish purple and orange and then there are some that are just pure black!
The name pansy comes from the French “pensee” meaning thought because the blossom resembles a little frowning face, as if deep in concentration. They have a large number of colorful nicknames such as heartsease, three-faces-under-a-hood, Cupid’s delight, love-in-idleness, and jump-up-and-kiss-me.
The German name for this flower however is “stiefmutterchen”. Instead of seeing a face deep in thought, they see the unforgiving frown of a little stepmother. I think they have been reading too much Grimm!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-pretty-pansy-varieties
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365
 
Answer: Because he is amending the public ways.

image from waysidegardens.com 

      ​Question: When will there be but 24 letters in the alphabet?  This one made me smile.  But I didn’t answer it had to look at the answer.
 
Cloudy, overcast sky rain still in the forecast.  We had rain over night, so it is soggy out.  Temperature is at 43 degrees high today of only 50.  Wind is out of the north west so it will seem colder out.  BUT it is rain, and not snow.  Enjoy, Stay safe.
 
When do you prune your hydrangeas? Well, it depends on the variety. Yes, we know that sounds tricky but it’s not if you consult our handy cheat sheet to figure out the best time to prune. We’ve included photos in case you’re not sure which hydrangea you have.
Properly pruning hydrangeas based on your hydrangea’s type will allow you to have more blooms next year. However, before you start pruning, it’s important to figure out which type of hydrangea you have. If you prune at the wrong time, you could be cutting off next year’s blooms!
HYDRANGEA PRUNING CHEAT SHEET
Use this table to determine when to best prune the hydrangeas in your garden. Some types should be pruned in late winter, while others should be left alone until after they bloom in the summer.
Hydrangea Type               When to Prune Where Flowers Appear
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) Summer, after flowering               On old growth
Oakleaf (H. quercifolia)  Summer, after flowering               On old growth
Panicle (H. paniculata)   Late winter, before spring growth             On new growth
Smooth (H. arborescens)              Late winter, before spring growth             On new growth
Mountain (H. serrata)    Summer, after flowering               On old growth
Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris)  Summer, after flowering               On old growth
MORE ABOUT PRUNING DIFFERENT HYDRANGEA TYPES
Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
Even though I’m located in Zone 5, my ‘Endless Summer’ mophead hydrangea—which usually has huge blue blossoms all summer long—was killed to the ground. Luckily, it has the wonderful ability to bloom on both old and new wood, so even though they were a bit later than usual, there were still many blooms.
My other blue hydrangea is a lacecap-type, called ‘Let’s Dance Starlight’, but instead of the huge, mophead-type of flower cluster that ‘Endless Summer’ has, the lacecap hydrangea bears a flat blossom made up of many small, fertile flowers surrounded by a few showy, sterile flowers. It is also hardy to Zone 5 and blooms on both old and new wood.
Both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are considered bigleaf or macrophylla hydrangeas, so they can be pruned right after flowering by cutting back the flowering shoots to the next bud. If you have older plants that aren’t blooming well, you can cut up to a third of the stems off at the base in late summer to encourage new growth.
The hydrangeas grown most often in New England gardens are the panicle-types, since they are not only beautiful, but also very hardy, surviving Zone 3 winters with no problems. One of the oldest and most reliable favorites is ‘Grandiflora’, also known as Pee Gee hydrangea. Native to China and Japan, it was the first Asian hydrangea cultivar introduced to the United States, in 1862. They were a big hit during the Victorian era. The flowers start out a creamy white and turn a rosy pink as they age. They can be dried and look lovely in a winter arrangement. Find out how to dry these lovely hydrangeas here.
There are many panicle-types to choose from. I have one called ‘Pinky Winky’ that has long, cone-shaped white and pink flowers, and also ‘Vanilla Strawberry’, which has panicles that color from white at the tip to pink in the middle and red at the base. For something different, try ‘Limelight,’ which has chartreuse flowers that gradually turn pink in autumn.
Panicle-type hydrangeas should be pruned in late winter to keep them from becoming overgrown.
Smooth hydrangeas are North American natives, originally found growing wild in Pennsylvania. They tolerate light shade, begin to bloom in June, and continue to blossom until fall. Their white flowers are round and can reach 12 inches in diameter.
The popular cultivar ‘Annabelle’ grows to be 3-5 feet tall and can be used to light up a shady path or as a mass planting at the edge of the woods. It is hardy to Zone 3.
Smooth hydrangeas can be pruned back to the ground in the fall or early spring.
Oak-leaf hydrangeas are another North American native, having been discovered in Georgia in 1773.
Also called swamp snowball, it is hardy to zone 5 and though it prefers full sun, it can take some shade and still blossom well. It blooms a little later than the other hydrangeas, beginning in August. Its flowers are large panicles that start out white and turn dark pink as they age. The leaves, which are deeply lobed like an oak leaf, turn a rich maroon red in the fall.
Oak-leaf hydrangeas don’t need a lot of pruning, but if you want to tidy yours up, prune out the dead stems at the base in early spring.
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/when-prune-different-kinds-hydrangeas
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell  641-903-9365
 
Answer: When U and I are 1.

image from Becky's and also the years of growing is 32 years.

      ​This morning temperature I can’t believe is at 44 degrees at 8:30AM  high today of 50  but cloudy skies as rain is moving in.  It is getting dark to the west, so looks like rain soon.  Even enjoy the rain.  I love the spring rains for the smell it gives out. 
Question: The Golden State.
(Name the U.S. state!)
 
Here is an article I wrote for my sister’s Master Gardener group.  I wanted to share it with you what we do in the off season in the greenhouse.   Greenhouse grower what do I do in the later fall/winter months?   This is Becky Kerndt Litterer from Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa. I am Mary Kay Winke’s sister.   I am starting now my 32nd year of greenhouse growing.  It has been a job that I have learned on how to grow plants.  I had my training as a Elementary Educator.  But with the things that happened, my husband and I reopened up his business of Larry’s Garage and we were told to have something that is different to add to that.  I love plants, I had my mom’s gardening that I love to watch her to do.  We started off in buying plants from a Rockwell greenhouse and selling plants.  When they wanted to sell the greenhouses, we started growing and learning how to do this.  Now I am still at it for 32 years.  I am still learning and trying new things which is good for you the gardener. 
     Many gardeners think that when the growing season is done, then I am done but that is far from the truth.  We heat the one greenhouse in the winter, so we need to move plants in there that we want to keep over the winter.  We will have plants in the unheated part of the greenhouses to keep them for the next garden season.  We only heat 1/3 of the greenhouse, so plastic walls need to go up for that area to be heated. 
    When I am not working in the greenhouse, I am working on greenhouse stuff.  Yearend bookwork to see how the year went.  Inventory of plants and seeds to be done.  I have a daily blog that I need to continue to post on Facebook and my website.  The biggest project is ordering plant plugs and seeds for the next gardening season.  Greenhouse growers usually use a broker to order their plugs thru.  A plug tray could have 40 plants in a tray up to 500 plants in a tray.  The broker puts in your order and when you wanted shipped from the grower.  It is a good system as there are problems the broker can direct that.  If you need something and it is up to the broker to find that plant thru their list of growers. 
   So here is an example of all what the process is. I am looking at trailing petunias.  8 different varieties of them.
•             Easy Wave petunia and there are 25 different colors and combinations.
•             Evening Scentsation ( this is the right spelling even though spell check doesn’t like it)
•             Opera Supreme 9 different colors
•             Shockwave 10 different colors
•             Success 16 different colors
•             Tidal Wave 5 different colors
•             Trilogy 8 different colors
•             Wave 5 different colors
I go thru each variety and look at the growing time, any comments about it and the success of this plant.  Then I have decide what colors to get for each variety that I decided to grow.  I have to decide what size tray to get them in the choices are 40 tray, 144 tray, 288 tray 512 tray.    Ok when should I have them shipped to get them planted and growing the time before we open the greenhouse.   This process must be done with every plant that I get shipped as a plug tray. In looking at my list I have 200 different kinds of plants to order in this process.   Now I need to go the seeds that I plant and do the same thing with them.
    After the orders are confirmed, I work on the planting book.  With each variety, I need to decide what size container they are transplanted into.  Do we make baskets?  How many plugs go into each size basket?  Do we make landscape pots with them?  How many plugs are planted in them?  Then comes the price I will charge the gardeners.  I will look for information on growing the plants and put that in the planting book.  If there are signs to go along with the specific plant, I will print those out. 
     It will be soon time for me to start the planting of these plugs and working in the greenhouse in Feb.  Full production starts in March where I have several transplanters come and help.  We transplant each by hand but for our operation that is the way to do it.  I must decide where they will put the planted trays.  Will it need full light so it goes on top of the rack, if can get by with more filtered light it can go on the bottom of the rack.  We have always doubled deck the finished trays. 
     I have a story to tell.  Several years ago, I was planting, and it was the end of March.  Greenhouse was getting full of plants.  I had a knock on the door as we have an old-fashioned barn door, and the door handle is hard to open.  Push it ahead and then down.  I went to the door and here was a representative from Proven Winners.  She was checking to see I wasn’t illegally propagation their plants as all Proven Winners are patented.  I was not so that was good. The fine is $1.00 per plant that was propagated, and they were destroyed.  She said she has gone back the next year the grower has done it again.  Her comment about the operation is you do it a different way that is for sure, but it looks like it works.  Big company like Proven Winners coming to our small greenhouse really impressed me. 
    Order of plants plugs are in; seed order is in and wait now I must order all the plastic that the plants are planted in and the trays for growing.  I can’t forget the potting mix to plant them in, and then the fertilizer.  I forgot I need to order the labels that need to go into the container so you the gardener know what you are buying.  Now I am ready to plant and that will be soon.  There is nothing move rewarding to plant and watch how the plants grow with sunlight, heat, and water.  For me it is a passion, and you will find that when you come to Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa 
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
Answer: California  I said Florida….
 

image from Pinterest

      ​Question: (Blank) what you (Blank).  I think our mothers would have said this to us.  I didn’t get this one, how about you?
(What’s the saying? Fill in the blanks!)
Temperature is all ready at 36 degrees at 8:00 AM but that is only 7 AM sun time.  Today a high of 54 but clouds moving in and some rain.  Lots of rain tomorrow and still on Wed.  Enjoy as now we are in spring.  BUT don’t rush the season too much because we still can get cold weather and maybe some more snow.  See what happens. 
Here are some ideas to make planting pots for seed starting.  Always fun to be ecofriendly.  Have fun if you do these things.  And GOOD LUCK!    
10 BIODEGRADABLE PLANTING POTS AND HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN!  By Robin Sweetser
Happily, we’re seeing more biodegradable planting pots. Yep, they go right in the ground! Not only are they an easy way to start vegetables, but they’re also economical and spare the use of pounds of plastic. See 10 types of plant pots—from paper to cow manure—plus 3 ways to make your own biodegradable pots!
As much as we would like to see plastic plant pots being recycled, tons of them end up in landfills and incinerators every year. That leads many of us to look for alternative containers in which to start our spring seedlings. In shopping, please note that there are three ways that eco-friendly pots are described:
Plantable: This means that you can put the pots right in the ground, plant and all, and the roots will penetrate through the pot into the surrounding soil as the pot breaks down.
Biodegradable: These pots eventually break down and seem to disappear to the naked eye but depending on what they were made of they may leave harmful residues behind, so look for ones that are certified organic.
Compostable: This is another category. These pots break down into humus eventually and leave no toxic residue. Some compostable pots take a long time to break down though so be aware that they are not actually considered plantable. It is best to remove the plants and add the empty pots to your compost pile to break down.
10 TYPES OF ECO-FRIENDLY GARDEN POTS
There are many types of pots to choose from made from paper to cow manure!
1. Peat pots have been around for years but there is some controversy about how sustainable a product they are. Like oil, there is a finite amount of peat in the world. Even though it is considered by many to be renewable, it takes a long time. Peat develops at a rate of 1 inch every 15 to 25 years. Most of the peat used in the US is harvested in Canada. If you choose to use peat, the pots are totally plantable and come in a wide range of sizes and types from Jiffy7 pellets to strips of square cells to individual pots.
2. Coconut coir is starting to be used as a peat substitute. Once considered agricultural waste, the fibrous husks of coconuts are molded into pots or finely shredded and used as a planting medium. Coir pots are also plantable since roots can easily pass between the fibers.
3. Feather pots are another agricultural waste product. Poultry farmers in the US generate about 4 billion pounds of chicken feathers each year. A clean and sustainable source of the protein keratin, the feathers can be shredded and made into light, durable pots that can be composted when empty.
4. Fertilpots are made from a mixture of 80% spruce fibers and 20% peat. They are biodegradable but don’t contain any glue or binders and are certified organic. Plant roots can penetrate the sides of the pot so they can be planted pot and all. They are made in France so they do have to travel to get to a US distributor in PA. They are available from Johnny’s Selected Seeds.
5. Eco-Forms are containers made from grain husks - primarily rice hulls - and starch-based binders which are heated and pressed to make them hold together. They make a range of pots from practical ones for professional growers to dressy looking ones in many colors for home gardeners. These pots will last for 5 years and can withstand freezing and thawing. They are not meant to be planted in the ground but they are biodegradable and can be composted. They are made in China.
6. EnviroArc is a biodegradable pot from Australia. It is made from bamboo pulp, rice hulls, wheat straw, and cornstalks - all organically grown on their own farms. These pots last 18 to 24 months but will break down in less than 6 months when composted. They offer a wide range of sizes and colors.
7. Western Pulp makes a molded fiber pot from recycled paper. These are heavy-duty containers and tender plants will not be able to push their roots through them. You are advised to gently tear away the pots from the rootball before planting, then compost the container. They are made in the USA but are not certified organic.
It is easy enough to make your own paper pots from old newspaper. Wrap the strips around any size cylinder you choose like this juice glass.
8. Paper pots are not a new idea; for years many of us have been making our own pots out of old newspapers. Strips of paper can be wrapped around a cylindrical form and folded over on the bottom to form a little cup. These can be filled with soil and used to grow transplants for the garden. They are fragile, especially when wet so try to avoid handling them too much. They can be planted pot and all and break down fast in your soil. Cardboard toilet paper and paper towel tubes can be turned into pots for seedlings and fiber egg cartons can also been used.
The roots of your plant will help hold the soil blocks together. This mold makes 4 cubes of soil at a time.
9. One kind of pot is no pot at all. Soil blocks are another old practice that is regaining popularity. Simply use a form to compress potting soil into blocks that can be used for direct seeding, transplanting, or growing cuttings. Care must be taken to keep the blocks intact until they can be planted. Forms of different sizes are available from Johnny’s.
10. My favorite eco-friendly container is the CowPot. As a former dairy farmer I applaud the innovative approach brothers Matt and Ben Freund of CT have taken to find ways to maximize the use of all that manure cows generate. Along with solar panels, they use methane gas from manure to power their farm. The liquids left over from that process are used as fertilizer and the solids are composted and then molded along with recycled newsprint into plant pots. The pots can withstand about 3 months of use in the greenhouse but will dissolve within 4 weeks of being planted in the ground. Because of the nutrients from the manure in the pots, plants have been proven to grow larger than those grown in plastic. They are made right on the farm.
3 DIY WAYS TO MAKE BIODEGRADABLE PLANTING POTS
If you’re thinking about starting a lot of seeds, make biodegradable seed pots out of recycled materials. They’re easy to make and they can be transplanted right into the ground when the time comes. Plus, they’re economical! Seed trays and pots can be expensive, and as they’re usually made of plastic, they’re not always very environmentally-friendly. The good news is, it’s easy to make your own from nothing more than egg boxes, toilet paper tubes, and newspaper.
Newspaper Pots
To make paper pots, you’ll need an old newspaper (not a glossy magazine, as this will take a long time to rot down and may be printed with inks containing traces of toxic heavy metals), a pair of scissors, and a jar or glass to use as a mold. Follow the instructions below to make your newspaper pot:
1. Cut your newspaper into strips about 1 inch (3cm) taller than your jar.
2. Fold a flap along the length of a strip, then unfold the flap to leave a crease.
3. Lay your jar on the newspaper at one end of the strip so that the open end sticks out.
4. Tightly roll the strip around the jar.
5. Holding the paper closed, turn the jar on its end.
6. Fold the loose ends of the paper in to create the base, and push them down.
7. Pinch along the edges to firm them up.
8. Holding the bottom flaps, pull out the jar and firm up the base.
9. Fold the top of the paper along the crease you made earlier – this creates the rim of your pot.
Once filled with potting soil, the pot will become more stable, but it’s best to also nestle your pots side by side in a tray to keep them secure once the paper is wet.
At planting time, dig a hole into prepared soil and plant your seedling, including the pot – the paper will biodegrade within a few weeks.
Toilet Paper Tube Pots
Cut toilet paper tubes in half for most seedlings, or leave them whole for plants that need more root space – peas, corn, and tomatoes for instance. Alternatively, cut down paper towel tubes to the desired length.
Making a toilet paper tube seed pot is even easier than making a newspaper pot!
1. Cut four equally-spaced inch-long slits into one end of the toilet paper tube.
2. Fold the flaps down, alternating the tucks to create a strong interlocking base.
3. Fill with potting soil, and sow your seeds into it.
Set the tubes in trays so that they don’t fall apart as the cardboard softens. As the seedlings grow, their roots will help hold the potting soil together. You can also group pots together using string or rubber bands.
Cardboard tubes rot down more slowly than newspaper, but roots will find their own way out of the pot eventually. However, you can peel off the cardboard before planting if you prefer – it peels away very easily when wet.
Egg Crate Seed Trays
Using cardboard egg crates is the simplest method of all.
1. Cut off the lid.
2. Put the lid underneath the base for additional strength.
3. Fill the compartments with potting soil, and sow!
Be aware that the roots of some crops will soon become constricted in egg crates, so they should only be used for crops that will quickly be moved on or planted out.
When you’re ready to plant your seedlings out, egg carton cells are easily torn apart when damp. Make sure to also rip away the base of each cell to help the roots escape into the soil.
Whatever you choose to raise your plants in, have fun watching them grow from tiny seeds into strong healthy starts for your garden!
Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/biodegradable-planting-pots
Till next time this is Becky Litterer Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
 
Answer: 1) Practice 2) preach

image from dreamstine.com/free-clipart/image

      ​Question: What is that which was tomorrow, and will be yesterday?  I got this one how about you?
WHAT IS THE SPRING EQUINOX?
In the Northern Hemisphere, the March equinox (aka spring equinox or vernal equinox) occurs when the Sun crosses the equator line, heading north. This event marks the start of spring in the northern half of the globe. After this date, the Northern Hemisphere begins to be tilted more toward the Sun, resulting in increasing daylight hours and warming temperatures. (In the Southern Hemisphere, it’s the opposite: the March equinox marks the start of autumn, as the Southern Hemisphere begins to be tilted away from the Sun.)
Observe nature around you!
Are worms and grubs reappearing? (The March Full Moon is called the “Worm Moon” for this very reason!)
Watch the arc of the Sun across the sky as it shifts toward the north. Birds are migrating northward, along with the path of the Sun.
Are you noticing that the days are getting longer? Did you know that the increasing sunlight is what triggers birds to sing? Cool, eh? Enjoy our Bird Songs page.
Are the daffodils poking up their heads? Trees, shrubs, and flowers are sensitive to temperature and day-length, too! Since ancient days, people have used them as indicators of when the weather is right for planting. For example: Blooming crocus are your cue to plant radishes, parsnips, and spinach. See more of nature’s signs.
Can you feel the Sun getting stronger? The longer days bring high temperatures. Both we and the animals around us strip off our clothes and heavy coats!
Are you getting itchy to get outdoors? March is time to start gardens and sow seeds in many regions. See the best planting dates according to your local frost dates or our Vegetable Gardening for Beginners guide for gardening tips!
Are you craving fresh foods after a long winter? A Spring Tonic, using the early greens of spring, may be just the thing you need! Also, find some new spring recipes using what’s fresh and seasonal!
→ What sort of weather will spring bring?
SPRING WEATHER FORECAST 2021: RAIN OR SHINE? FROST OR FLOWERS?
What weather does Spring 2021 have in store for us? Will it get warmer or cool off? Is rain on the way? Read on for seasonal weather predictions from The Old Farmer’s Almanac meteorologist Michael Steinberg.
THE ALMANAC’S SPRING WEATHER FORECAST
Spring officially begins, of course, with the spring equinox, which arrives on Saturday, March 20, at 5:37 A.M. Eastern Time. At this time, the Sun stands directly over Earth’s equator, and we can wake up knowing that we are inching ever closer to the longest day of the year, the summer solstice.
 
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves dreaming of summer weather just yet. First, let’s talk about what to expect for spring.
WHAT WEATHER WILL SPRING BRING ACROSS THE UNITED STATES?
This spring, we’re expecting to see warmer-than-normal temperatures across much of the northern United States, from the Northeast through the Midwest and into the High Plains.
Warmer-than-normal temperatures are also predicted for parts of the Intermountain region, Desert Southwest, Alaska, and Hawaii.
From the northern half of the Intermountain region to the Pacific coast, as well as across much of the southern U.S., we’re predicting that near-normal to cooler-than-normal temperatures are in store for the spring season.
Hopefully, by the time Easter arrives on April 4, we’ll have left wintery weather far behind us!
Rainfall will be above normal in the Northeast, Southeast, Florida, and eastern Great Lakes.
Also expect more rain than average from the High Plains into Oklahoma and Texas; and in the Desert Southwest and southern California.
Rain is predicted to be below or near normal elsewhere in the country.
Watch for a tropical storm threat in Florida in mid-May, too.
SPRINGTIME IN CANADA
In Canada, spring temperatures will be above normal from the Prairies northward into Yukon and Northwest Territories.
Elsewhere in the country, near to below-normal temperatures are expected.
Precipitation will be near to below normal in Atlantic Canada and the Prairies and near to above normal elsewhere.
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, START YOUR… SEEDS!
Good news! Warmer-than-normal spring temperatures in the North could mean an early start to the gardening season in many regions, while cooler-than-normal temperatures in the South could give gardeners a chance to get things growing before summer’s heat kicks in!
No matter where you are, be sure to consult our Planting Calendar for suggested seed-starting and planting dates in your area—and keep an eye out for frost!
So, are you feeling ready for spring? We sure are. For more weather forecasts and folklore, pick up a copy of the 2021 Old Farmer’s Almanac!
Mike Steinberg is Senior Vice President for Special Initiatives at AccuWeather Inc in State College, Pennsylvania. He is also a member of the National Weather Association and the Canadian Meteorological and Oceanographic Society
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/first-day-spring-vernal-equinox
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  641-903-9365
 
Answer: Today

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      Question: How could the letter G surprise a farmer?  This one is hard.  I didn’t get it but laughed when I saw the answer.  GOOD LUCK.
​
Second post as I didn’t get one posted yesterday.  This is important in your growing of transplants so give it a try. 
HOW TO HARDEN OFF PLANTS
PREPARING SEEDLINGS FOR TRANSPLANT BY HARDENING THEM OFF
How to Harden Off Plants
 “Hardening off” is the process of getting your indoor-grown seedlings accustomed to life outdoors. Find out how to move your young plants to the garden safely—and without stalling their growth!
HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY HARDEN OFF INDOOR-SOWN PLANTS
“Hardening off” is the process of gradually acclimatizing indoor-sown plants to outdoor conditions.
For most plants, begin hardening off a week before the final frost date for your area. Our Garden Planner uses data from your closest weather station to recommend when it’s safe to plant out, providing a helpful guide to work back from.
Choose a sheltered spot to harden off your plants. An unheated greenhouse or cold frame is a great tool for this, or you can cluster pots into buckets, crates or boxes to keep the wind off. Don’t place pots directly on the ground where they can easily be knocked over by birds or attacked by slugs.
Begin hardening off on a still, cloudy day when temperatures are fairly steady. Water plants before they go outside. Place them into your sheltered spot for just two hours on the first day. The next day, leave them out for two more hours, with perhaps an hour’s direct sunshine in the morning. Gradually increase the length of outdoor time and direct sunshine over one to two weeks. You can then leave them out overnight if there’s no danger of frost.
In cold winter regions, plants – particularly tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers – will need to be prepared for the cooler nights early in the growing season. Towards the end of the hardening off period, cover your crops with fleece or row covers to protect them overnight. Once crops have been planted into their final positions, be alert for unexpected cold snaps and cover tender crops if necessary.
It’s a good idea to grow a few more plants than you need so you can hold some back just in case. Bought-in plants may also need hardening off, particularly if they have been kept in sheltered conditions.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/video/how-harden-plants
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net  641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
 
Answer: By changing oats into goats.

mysquarefootgarden.net

      ​Question: Emblem of majesty am I, which “shows force of temporal power,” but twist me about and I become a thing which makes even monarchs cower.
(What word fits the first clue, but when rearranged, fits the second?)
This one is very hard I didn’t get it, good luck.
 
Weather is really great today.  Temperature is at 43 degrees at 1:30 PM high today at 51 and a low tonight of 24.Only going to get warmer each day.  ENJOY
SMALL-SPACE GARDENING: 5 TIPS FOR GROWING MORE  LEARN HOW TO GROW MORE FOOD IN LESS SPACE!  By Robin Sweetser
Grow more in less space with interplanting, succession planting, and other techniques. Robin has five simple gardening tips for ensuring a bountiful harvest, even if you only have a small space to work with!
5 TIPS FOR SMALL-SPACE GARDENING
1. Use Raised Beds
Forget about growing plants single file in long, parallel rows. You can grow up to 10 times the amount of produce in the same space by using raised beds and square-foot gardening.
In a raised garden bed, you keep outside weeds from your garden soil, prevent water runoff and soil compaction, and worry less about slugs, snails, and other garden pests. Also, garden boxes allow you to concentrate your energy in a small area, meaning you can work, water, weed, and fertilize as economically as possible. You can make the most of the entire growing season by using season-extending devices such as cold frames, cloches, row covers, and plastic tunnels, too.
2. Keep Seedlings Coming
Succession planting keeps the garden in continual production. Whenever one crop is harvested, have seedlings ready to transplant in its place. For the best results, use quick-maturing vegetables such as radishes or salad greens to fit several crops into one season and spread out the harvest. See 5 fast-growing veggies to try.
3. Interplant (Intercrop)
“Interplanting” or “intercropping” is the practice of planting small crops in between bigger ones; the small, fast-growing crops will be ready before the big ones need the extra space. If you have a small area, this lets you use your space more efficiently and for longer. 
 
To “interplant,” plants should be placed close enough so that their leaves will touch when they’re mature, shading the ground between them. This will keep weeds down and conserve moisture, reducing the need to mulch and weed.
As the plants begin to crowd out their neighbors, harvest the early-maturing ones, leaving room for the others to develop. For example, plant lettuce around longer-season vegetables such as broccoli, peppers, or tomatoes.
4. Plant Companions, Not Competitors
Some intercropping partners thrive if their roots occupy a different depth of soil. Pairing shallow-rooted vegetables, such as bush beans, with deeply rooted beets makes good use of space without creating root competition. Similarly, planting heavy feeders such as cabbage or cucumbers with light-feeding carrots or beans reduces the competition for soil nutrients. The best intercropping partners are companion plants that have different demands and complement each other, such as the Three Sisters: corn, beans, and squash. Refer to our vegetable companion planting chart for more recommended pairings.
5. Grow Up, Not Out
Lay out your garden plot with the fence, trellis, or wall at the north side. By planting the tallest plants there, you will avoid shading the smaller ones. Vining plants, if left to sprawl, take up valuable space in a small garden, so help them grow up.
Cucumbers will eagerly climb a nylon net fence, with the subsequent bonus result that the dangling fruits grow straighter and are easier to pick.
Tomatoes produce more fruit and ripen earlier if kept off the ground on a trellis or in a wire cage.
Peas and pole beans naturally reach for the sky and will cover a wire fence or twine around a tripod of poles.
Some heavier plants, such as cantaloupes, watermelons, and winter squashes, may need help in climbing, so tie their vines to the structure to get them going in the right direction. Support the fruit with slings to keep them from tearing off the vine too soon.
PLOT OUT YOUR GARDEN
Good soil, adequate sunshine, and sufficient drainage are the key requirements for a successful vegetable garden, but planning your garden’s layout shouldn’t be a last-minute thought. Every garden—and every gardener—is different, so create a garden tailored to your space and needs.
For example, a 100-square-foot garden (10x10 feet) can easily yield a wide variety of veggies. Bisecting it with two narrow paths forms four beds that are easy to reach into and tend. (One square = one square foot.
Taken from https://www.almanac.com/small-space-gardening
Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337  cell 641-903-9365
 
 
Answer: Scepter - specter