image from Becky Litterer

image from pluie de chats French wikipedia

image from wikimediacommons

      ​     I want to share with you this article a little off from gardening but it does talk about 2 other things I love kitties and weather.  Interesting about  where did the phrase "raining cats and dogs" come from? 
Cats and Weather—The Folklore  By James J. Garriss
What is the origin of the phrase, “raining cats and dogs”? What do animals falling from the sky have to do with torrential downpours? Let’s explore!  After struggling for territory, I started to think about cats and weather—specifically, the phrase “raining cats and dogs.”   Can you imagine anything more improbable then raining cats and dogs or, for that matter, more uncomfortable?
 
Raining Cats and Dogs
Some authorities tie the idea to Norse mythology. Odin, the Viking god of storms, was often pictured with dogs and wolves, symbols of wind. Witches, who supposedly rode their brooms during storms, had black cats, which became signs of heavy rain. Therefore, “raining cats and dogs” referred to a storm with wind (dogs) and heavy rain (cats).
 
While the story sounds good, the expression didn’t become popular until the 1700s, when Jonathan Swift (author of Gulliver’s Travels) used it in a satire. He pictured snobby upper class aristocrats solemnly fretting that it would “rain cats and dogs”. Suddenly the saying caught on. Apparently, the English spent a lot of time chatting about rain and it was the latest hit phrase.
 
Cats and Weather Folklore
The cat/witch connection created a lot of superstitions. Many European cultures believed that cats could influence or even forecast the weather.
•In Britain, especially Wales, it was believed that rain was likely if a cat busily washed its ears.
•In Holland, cats could predict the wind by clawing at carpets and curtains.
•In early America, if a cat sat with its back to the fire, it was foretelling a cold snap and if it slept with all four paws tucked under, bad weather was coming.
 
Sailors were particularly superstitious or just so bored that they spent a lot of time watching the ship’s cat.
•If a cat licked its fur against the grain it meant a hailstorm was coming; if it sneezed, rain was on the way; and if it was frisky, the wind would soon blow.
•Some believed cats could start storms through magic, so sailors always made sure cats were content. (I’m sure the cats encouraged this belief!)
 
Another common legend was that when a cat stared out the window, it would rain. Since that’s where my cat stomped off to once I shoved him off the keyboard—I had better go close the car windows!
 
Ever head of Cat Nights? This term harks back to the days when people believed in witches.
 
This bit of folklore also gives us the saying, “A cat has nine lives.” Cat Nights began on August 17.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/weather-news/cats-and-weather
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

image from all-americanselectiions

            I know many of you are looking thru seed catalogs, so I will add this article with more new seeds to look at.  I am working on my seed order because soon I will be starting them.  How quickly this time has come around.  Do you plant seeds inside for your garden?  Let us know. 
New and Notable Plants for 2020  ll America Selection winners and other new varieties By Robin SweetserWe are being inundated with seed catalogs this year. It will be hard to find room among the tried and true to experiment with all the new things I’d like to try. Here are some edibles that caught my eye—as well as a few flowers.

• Cucumber ‘Green Light’ is tops on my list. An All-America Selections National Vegetable Winner, it sounds like the cuke of my dreams. It bears all female flowers which will produce about 40 fruits per plant in 30 to 37 days from transplants or 37 to 42 days from seed. To conserve space, grow the 80 inch long vines on a trellis. The 3-1/2 inch long mini-cukes are spineless with tender skin, similar to my all-time favorite ‘Diva’.

Broccoli ‘Burgundy’ is a purple sprouting broccoli with intense color and good flavor. It is completely edible (crown and steam), so less waste. Plus, this purple broccoli provides essential nutrients and antioxidants. Tender enough to eat raw or cooked. (Cook lightly to preserve the color.) Plants are 24 to 36 inches tall and start producing edible shoots in 60 days.
Lettuce ‘Bronze Mini-Romaine’ is perfect for containers or edging. The 8 inch tall red heads are slow to bolt in hot weather and reach a harvestable size in 21 to 40 days. Planting a few seeds every week will give you a constant supply for salads. Would do well in a window box on your balcony.

Acorn squash ‘Starry Night’ is a new one from Johnny’s Selected Seeds. If you are disappointed by acorn squashes that don’t last long in storage this one promises to be different, lasting from fall harvest into the new year. It has attractive speckled skin, smooth creamy texture and sweet flavor. Each bushy plant produces about a half-dozen 2 to 2-1/2 pounds fruits and it has good resistance to powdery mildew.


Pumpkin ‘Blue Prince’ is another AAS winner. Similar to ‘Jarradale’ it is a 7 to 9 pound, blue-skinned winter squash that can be used decoratively or eaten… or both! The 18 inch high, 5 foot long vines are mildew tolerant. The deep orange flesh is very sweet and not stringy. It matures in 110 days from seed or 90 days from transplants.
 
Watermelon ‘Mambo’ is also an AAS National Vegetable Winner and one to try if you struggle with ‘Sugar Baby’. This has similar sized, round fruits, weighing about 10 to 12 pounds each. A high germination rate makes them easy to grow from seed. It offers a high yield even in cool cloudy weather, maturing in 75 days from transplanting or 90 days from seed. Since they hold well on the vine without over-ripening, you don’t have to worry about losing the precious fruits if you are late in picking them. I can almost taste the juicy red flesh!

Since downy mildew has become such a problem for basils, Rutgers University has bred new DMR (downy mildew resistant) varieties that have strong resistance to this destructive disease.

• ‘Rutgers Devotion’ is a Genovese-type with large, cupped, dark green leaves on a compact plant.
• ‘Rutgers Obsession’ is a compact growing Italian large leaf variety with glossy dark green pointed leaves. Both types are highly productive, fully mature in 74 days. If downy mildew has been plaguing your garden, give one of these a try.

New Flowers in 2020We always manage to find room for a few new flowers. The first two are AAS National Herbaceous Perennial Winners for 2020:
Echinacea ‘Sombrero Baja Burgundy’ has 3 inch, violet-red flowers on a sturdy, branching, 18 to 20 inch tall plants. Grown in full sun, it blooms from midsummer to frost. Hardy to zone 4 and deer resistant, it is a favorite with birds and pollinators. We sell lots of coneflowers to florists and use them in our own bouquets, so this sounds like one we’ll have to try.
Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’ is a disease resistant and drought tolerant black-eyed Susan that blooms from July thru Sept. The compact plants grow about 2 feet tall in full sun and bear lots of 2 inch bright golden yellow flowers with classic black centers. Hardy to zone 4 it is also deer resistant and pollinator friendly.

Clematis ‘Stand By Me’. Since I am a clematis addict I have to try this plant. It is not terribly new - honored as a Plant of Distinction by the University of Georgia in 2017 -  but I am just now seeing it pop up in all the catalogs. It is a bush type rather than a climber that gets about 3 feet tall and has lots of blue, nodding bell flowers. Good for full sun to part shade and hardy in zones 3-7.

taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/new-and-notable-plants-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from en.wikipedia.org

  Sorry posting late tonight.  BUT we had a funeral visitation to go to and left at noon when I usually do this posting.  Said goodbye to our last WW2 vet from our little community. 

​      ​     You will find this list very interesting.  Some of them will not overwinter here in our zone 4.  Some of them I never heard of so it is your turn to let us know if you have grown them.  Just write in the comment which one you have grown. 
 
The Most Beautiful Flowers You Can Plant in Your Garden
Some flowers capture the imagination like no other. The beauty of these flowers makes them iconic: When we see them, we are transported to a garden wedding, tropical destination, or secret forest. Yet, most of the flowers can grow in the typical suburban landscape, as a hardy perennial or patio specimen, and some are even easy to grow from seed. From exotic imports to native wildflowers, choose one of the most beautiful flowers in the world to grow in your garden.
 
Zygopetalum Orchid
 Take the inherent beauty of the orchid, and add fantastic speckling and unusual anatomy, and you will recognize one of the dozen or so species of the Zygopetalum genus of orchids. Unlike many orchids, the zygopetalum is also very fragrant. Grow in partial shade in humid conditions, and protect from hot summer temperatures and freezing temperatures. A hanging basket under the dappled shade of a tree provides the best lighting conditions for the zygopetalum orchid.
 
English Rose
English roses like the 'Abraham Darby' variety shown here are revered for their large blooms packed with petals and old world fragrance. Many of the most beloved English roses (Rosa) come from the David Austin breeding program, where roses undergo an eight year trial program to identify the most outstanding garden varieties. Grow these zone 5-9 plants in full sun in rich loam, and fertilize once in spring and once in summer.
 
Dinner Plate Dahlia
Some people automatically think of giant dinner plate blooms at the mention of dahlias, but the Dahlia genus includes small poms and single daisy-like flowers as well. Growing a dinner plate dahlia is both art and science. Choose a variety that has the potential to produce mammoth blooms, like the 'Kevin Floodlight' pictured here. Plant in these annuals in full sun, provide plenty of fertilizer and water, and remove all buds but one to direct plant energy to the large bloom. Dinner plate dahlias need a long time to mature, and may need a head start indoors north of growing zone 5.
 
Turkscap Lily
So many features of the Turkscap lily (Lilium martagon) make it special: the impressive four-foot stalks, the pendant-like shape of each blossom, and the profusion of blooms on each stalk. Much less common in the trade than Oriental or Asiatic lilies, martagon lilies like their feet in the shade and their blooms in the sun in zones 3-8. They need a sheltered spot where they won't be subjected to wind, and they need very good drainage. The variety 'R.O. Backhouse' shown here features pink buds that open to gold flowers dusted with purple freckles.
 
Blue Poppy
The allure of the Meconopsis betonicifolia is strong, aided by the fact that the flowers need very particular growing conditions in zones 5-7 and only bloom for about two weeks. The national flower of Bhutan grows best in areas that resemble its native habitat, with cool summers and moist soil.
 
Delphinium
Few flowers are as arresting as a healthy stand of Delphinium elatum in full bloom. Every coveted shade of blue is present, from wispy powder puff blue to robust violet. Delphiniums do well in areas with cool or mild summers in zones 3-7. They need rich soil, staking, and regular moisture.
 
Toad Lily
Although the color and form of the exotic-looking toad lily (Tryicyrtis hirta) read like a tender tropical plant, this shade-loving perennial is surprisingly hardy. The fall bloomers are hardy to zone 4, and will multiply slowly in moist soils.
 
Foxglove
 Are foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea) the most beautiful flower in the landscape? Bumblebees seem to think so, and love them so dearly they sometimes spend the night in the tubular blossoms so they can get an early start when the sun rises. Plants are biennial in zones 4-8, meaning they produce foliage one season and flower the next. However, when self-seeding begins in partial shade and moist soil, you may always have one generation of plants ready to bloom, while the next prepares itself. Try 'Mountains Mixed,' which has upright-facing flowers.
 
Bearded Iris
 Bearded irises (Iris germanica) are as tough and low maintenance as they are exquisite to behold in the sunny zone 3-10 garden. Expect to see varieties like 'Wabash,' a Dykes Memorial Medal winner, peak in May. Divide bearded irises every few years to keep them vigorous.
 
Peony 'Bowl of Beauty'
The name says it all. While there aren't really any unattractive peonies (Paeonia), 'Bowl of Beauty' is the perfect marriage of color and form. The large circumference of fuchsia guard petals surround a frilly lemon center of petaloids, which create the bowl. Peonies don't ask for much in their decades of life: full sun and good drainage are enough to produce masses of blooms in soil of average fertility. Peonies are exceptionally hardy, to zone 3 or 2, giving northern gardeners something to look forward to after a grueling winter.
 
Bird of Paradise
 Go ahead, anthropomorphize this flower—you won't be the first one to coddle and pamper your Strelitzia reginae flowers as if they were pets. In spite of their exotic appearance, the South African natives are not fussy plants, and will grow in many situations as long as you protect them from cold. Plant them in full or partial sun in regular potting soil, and water when soil surface is dry. Plants must overwinter indoors north of zone 10.
 
Cockscomb
 Whether you think Celosia argentea var. cristata is gaudy or gorgeous, no one can deny that the crested flowers are fascinating. Cockscomb flowers are annuals that are easy to grow from seed, and plants may even self-sow. In addition to red, these sun lovers come in orange, pink, yellow, and purple hues. For big, showy plants look for those in the 'Chief' series, which may grow three feet tall and have blooms several inches across.
 
Protea
At once spiky and delicate, king protea (Protea cynaroides) evolved to survive in the harsh South African climate, while attracting pollinators at the same time. It must work, because protea plants are one of the most ancient flowers, evolving more than one hundred million years ago. Grow protea in full sun and water sparingly. Plants are evergreen and hardy to zone 9.
 
Love Lies Bleeding
Also known as the tassel flower, Amaranthus caudatus makes a stunning hanging basket specimen. Plants are easy to grow as annuals in all growing zones. Plants bloom from July to frost in full sun, and blooming panicles may reach up to two feet long. The edible, nutritious seeds are a bonus.
 
Wisteria
Although some wisteria varieties (Wisteria sinensis) have a thuggish reputation in the garden, a well-maintained native Wisteria vine (Wisteria frutescens or Wisteria macrostachya) in full bloom can give the impression that one has entered the Garden of Eden. Prune and train over a sturdy structure like an arbor or gazebo, as most trellises can't do the job. Vines are hardy down to zone 5.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/the-most-beautiful-garden-flowers-
till next time from Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from Becky Litterer

image from Becky Litterer

              I found this article interesting.  One thing the author said which I have been saying for all the years I have been in the greenhouse.  Our potting soil isn't really potting soil, because there is no soil in it. 
Here’s how make your own potting soil for your containers and pots! Using the right potting soil is one of the secrets to gardening success.
  Quote from the author " •The perfect potting mix does not contain actual soil or garden dirt. It’s composed of peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, sand, and shredded bark or compost."  Potting soil we use has peat moss, vermiculite, perlite and shredded bard.  Larger greenhouse growers would make their own but for space, time and convience we purchase big bags of dirt.  Soon I will be out in the greenhouse planting for my gardening season. 
    Container gardens are on my mind as the winter chill sets in. Containers are great for a number of reasons, namely that they’re versatile, space-saving, and allow you to be more efficient in your use of resources. If you have a small garden space or live in an apartment with a balcony or rooftop, containers are for you.
Creating your own potting soil for your container garden lets you tailor your mix to the needs of the plants you wish to grow.
 
How to Make Your Own Potting Soil Mix
For the amount of containers I use in my garden, I learned long ago that it’s much cheaper to make my own potting soil and store it in an old trash can, rather than pay for several big sacks of pre-made potting mix. Plus, I can customize the mix for a variety of different plants.
 
Before we go any further, note that if you only need a few small containers’ worth of potting soil, you may actually be better off buying a pre-made mix! Making your own is usually only economical on a large scale or in the long term.
 
Potting soil
Here are a few things to keep in mind before creating your own mix:
•When it comes to potting mix, the lighter it is, the better. Loose and porous mixtures not only make a container lighter to move, but they transport water, fertilizer, and air to plant roots more quickly, and allow for good drainage, which is important for container gardening.
•The perfect potting mix does not contain actual soil or garden dirt. It’s composed of peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, sand, and shredded bark or compost.
•Start with the basic recipe below and then add soil sulfur to lower the pH or lime to raise the pH, according to the needs of your plants. Both additives can typically be found at garden centers. Plants such as lettuce, Russian sage, and marigolds prefer sweet soil with a pH of about 7.5, while others are acid lovers, like ferns, asters, and strawberries. They need a pH of about 5.5 to 6.0. Here’s a list of more plants’ pH preferences.
•If rapid drainage is needed, as is the case for cacti, succulents, and lavender, add extra sand and perlite.
•If greater moisture retention is needed, as is the case for ferns and woodland flowers (like primrose) add extra vermiculite or peat.
 
Basic Container Potting Mix Recipe
Ingredients
 1 bucket (10 quarts) peat moss
 ½ bucket (5 quarts) perlite
 ½ bucket (5 quarts) vermiculite
 ½ bucket (5 quarts) screened compost or composted cow manure
 2 cups fine sand
 2 cups pelleted time-release fertilizer
 ½ cup lime (to counter the acid of peat and keep the pH level near neutral)
 
Instructions
 Mix thoroughly. Makes enough to fill two 14-inch tubs or five 12-inch hanging baskets. Double or triple recipe for bigger containers.
 
Potting soil
How Much Potting Mix Do I Need?
Potting mix is sold by volume (typically measured in quarts), and most pots are measured by their diameter. To translate quarts of mix into various pot sizes, use this quick reference.
 
Pots & Tubs
 Container Size Amount Needed
8-inch 3 quarts
10-inch 6 quarts
12-inch 8 quarts
14-inch 12 quarts
16-inch 20 quarts
20-inch 24 quarts
24-inch 28 quarts
30-inch 72 quarts
36-inch 96 quarts
 
Hanging Baskets
 12-inch 6 quarts
16-inch 10 quarts
 
Window Boxes
 24 inches by 6 inches 12 quarts
36 inches by 6 inches 20 quarts
 
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening-news/make-your-own-potting-soil
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
​

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image from pinterset

           So it is not time to plant onions yet, but this is food for thought about planting them.  I have told the gardeners to plant the onion set completely in the soil for onions to turn into green onions.  If you want to have them grow big, just plant 1/2 of it in the ground and have the top showing that will make a bigger onion.
 Here is another way of getting the bigger onions.
There's no need to make trenches or special holes for the sets. Just grasp them at the top (the pointed end) with the root end down and push them into well-prepared soil the full depth of the bulb. The soil should just barely cover the top of the onion sets. If you have some tiny sets, plant them at least an inch in the ground, so they get good contact with the soil. The sets will get a better start. After you've got your sets in the ground, firm the soil around them with a hoe. After they have grown some, dig up some of the soil around the onion. Remember, if a set is planted too shallowly, it takes a long time to get started. It's important to push the bulb all the way into the soil. It gets the onion off to a good start for producing a lot of top growth. If the onion sets are a little too deep, it won't hurt. Later, when the bulbs are expanding, pull some of the dirt away from the sides to give the bulbs room to expand.
 
How do you plant them for having bigger onions? 
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness. Here’s how to grow an endless supply of onions in your garden!
Typically, onions are planted early in the spring and harvested in the fall after their tops begin to die back. In the southern U.S., some onion varieties can be planting in the fall.
Should I Grow Onions from Seed or from Sets?
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than planting from onion seeds or transplants. Onion sets are small onion bulbs that are sold specifically for gardening. Once planted, they develop into a full-size bulb after about 3-½ months.
Onion plants grow well in raised beds or raised rows at least 4 inches high. If you’d prefer to start your onions from seeds, check out our tips for growing onions from seed indoors.
Planting   When to Plant Onions

• Generally speaking, plant onion sets outdoors when the weather is cool—not cold. Ideally, outdoor temperatures shouldn’t dip below 28°F (-2°C) after planting.
  • In regions with a frigid winter, plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring—usually late March or April.
  • In milder regions, onions can be planted in the late fall or winter. They will sit dormant during the cool season, but will be primed and ready to grow as soon as the longer, milder days of spring arrive. 
• If planting from seeds, start them indoors about 6 weeks before you plan to transplant them to the garden. Onion seeds need temperatures of at least 50°F (10°C) to germinate properly.

Preparing the Planting Site

• Select a location with full sun, where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
• Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compacted, rocky, or clay-heavy soil affects bulb development.
• Add aged manure or compost to the soil in early spring, before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
• At planting time, mix in some nitrogen fertilizer.
• Practice crop rotation with onions. In other words, don’t plant them in the same location year after year, as this can encourage the spread of diseases that affect the crop.

How to Plant Onions

• Because they mature much faster (and are less work overall), we recommend growing onions from onion sets (i.e., small onion bulbs) rather than from seeds. However, in mild regions with a long growing season, seeds are an option as well.
  • Tip: Choose onion sets that are around ¾-inch in diameter and no bigger. Larger ones may produce stiff necks and go to seed too quickly.
• If planting from seed, bear in mind that onion seeds are short-lived, so start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting to the garden.
• When planting onion sets, plant them between 2 and 6 inches apart, and don’t bury them more than 1 inch under the soil.
• When planting transplants into the garden, space plants 4 to 5 inches apart in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
• Add straw mulch between rows of onions. This will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.

Can You Plant a Sprouted Onion? 
Yes, you can plant a sprouted onion, though you won’t get more onions from it. You will get lots of tasty green sprouts, however! Here’s how to do it:

1. Fill a pot with potting soil and make a hole in the middle that is about the depth and width of the onion.
2. Place the onion in the hole and cover with soil.
3. Water and put the pot in a sunny spot.
4. Harvest the green sprouts as needed for cooking.

If you get a sprout with a flower, wait until the flower goes to seed. Save the seeds for planting in the spring.
taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/onions
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 

taken from espoma.com

     ​     We got some snow yesterday and over night.  A little for everyone to move.  Looks like snow could be yet today and tomorrow.  Cloudy sky...temperatures will be in the 30's so that will be good. 
        Interesting article if you enjoy herbs and also the history of their uses.  Some I wonder about.
We all know that herbs make great companions in the garden and kitchen. Herbs also have a long history as a natural remedy—and many other more unusual uses, too! Read on…
 
Anise
 Romans paid taxes with anise, and it was used in cough drops.
Anise seed steeped in milk is said to be a sleep-producing drink, but it is also quite likely that the warm milk alone would do the trick.
Basil
 Precious to lovers in Italy and considered sacred in India. Many years ago, Italian men wore a sprig of basil to indicate their intended marriage. A cup of basil tea after dinner helps digestion. Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
Borage
 The Romans believed the herb to be an antidepressant, and ancient Celtic warriors took it for courage.
Caraway
 Caraway was used to scent perfumes and soaps. The Greeks used it for upset stomachs.
Chervil
 Eating a whole plant would cure hiccups; chervil was said to warm old and cold stomachs.
Chives
 Bunches of chives hung in your home were used to drive away diseases and evil.
Dill
 Romans made wreaths and garlands out of dill. Dill keeps witches away.
Fennel
 Bunches of fennel were used to drive off witches. It was used in love potions and as an appetite suppressant.
Garlic
 It was thought to give strength and courage. Aristotle noted garlic’s use as a guard against the fear of water. It’s also been widely used against evil powers.
Lovage
 Chewing on a piece of the dried root will keep you awake. Lovage warms a cold stomach and help digestion. Added to bathwater, it was believed to relieve skin problems.
Marjoram
 The Greeks believed it could revive the spirits of anyone who inhaled it. At weddings wreaths and garlands were made of marjoram.
Mint
 It was believed to cure hiccups and counteract sea-serpent stings. The Romans wore peppermint wreaths on their heads. It was added to bathwater for its fragrance.
Oregano
 Used for “sour humours” that plagued old farmers. Also used for scorpion and spider bites.
Parsley
 Used for wreaths and in funeral ceremonies. Believed to repel head lice and attract rabbits.
Rosemary
 Rosemary in your hair will improve your memory. It will protect you from evil spirits if you put a sprig under your pillow.
Sage
 Thought to promote strength and longevity and believed to cure warts. American Indians used it as a toothbrush.
Summer Savory
 It was believed to be an aphrodisiac. Some thought it was a cure for deafness.
Tarragon
 Put in shoes before long walking trips to give strength. It has been used to relieve toothache and as an antifungal.
Thyme
 Burning thyme gets rid of insects in your house. A bed of thyme was thought to be a home for fairies.
Anyone who has sage planted in the garden is reputed to do well in business.
 
taken from https://www.almanac.com/content/herbal-folklore-and-old-fashioned-tips
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net

image from larvalsubjects.wordpress.com

     ​So we are having snow this morning but it is warm out at 31 degrees Friday morning.  Tricky travel with more snow today.  SO be safe.  I think i just finished up my plant order.  I will go over it again and double check for new things to add.  Spring is happening here at Becky's Greenhouse with doing this.  Now to work on the seed order.  ALWAYS something that is for sure.  Some interesting plants with these perennials.  Think about adding them to your garden if you don't have them all ready. 
 
Perennial Plants 
Longest Lived Perennial Flowers
 By Jamie McIntosh  Jamie has written about gardening and special occasion flowers since 2011. She has years of experience in caring for flowers and plants.
In the gardening world, annual flowers generally refer to those that complete their entire life cycle in one growing season, and perennial flowers are those that return year after year. However, not all perennials are created equal. It's frustrating to design a new flowerbed around your favorite perennial flowers, like delphiniums, Shasta daisies, and pincushion flower, only to see them peter out after three or four years. Other perennial flowers are notorious for their longevity. These are the specimens you see in old neighborhoods, planted when the homes were built, and still blooming decades later. Choose these, and use the money you'll save in subsequent growing seasons for lush hanging baskets or container gardens.
 
Balloon Flower
Balloon flowers deliver that coveted shade of blue that blends well in any garden design, without the finicky needs some blue flowers exhibit. A native of China, these flowers endure a wide range of temperatures and conditions in full sun or partially shady gardens. Compact varieties that don't need support are the easiest to grow, including 'Apoyama' and the container-ready 'Sentimental Blue.' Once settled in, balloon flowers rarely need to be divided, and don't require deadheading, although shearing may produce a second flush of blooms at the end of summer.
 
Black-Eyed Susan
 Sometimes confused with daisies, Rudbeckia plants are the later-blooming, longer-living cousins in the Asteraceae family. Although the classic gold flowers of plants like this 'Goldsturm' variety are common in garden centers, you can find gorgeous burgundy and orange toned varieties, as well as fluffy doubles that act as enduring stand-ins for lookalikes such as zinnias or dahlias.
 
Butterfly Weed
Anyone who cares about the future of our Monarch butterflies should include the premier food for Monarch caterpillars, the butterfly weed. The Perennial Plant Association named this 2017 Plant of the Year, but the desirable attributes of Asclepias tuberosa will linger on in your garden: drought tolerant, free-flowering orange blooms, and disease and pest-free plants will grow in average soil and full sun for many years.
 
Daffodil
Hybrid tulips and hyacinths are attention hogs in the spring garden, but these are some of the shortest-lived perennial bulbs you can plant. Instead, choose hardy daffodils, which will multiply over the years to form a handsome naturalized colony in flowerbeds or wild parts of your property.
 
Daylily
Have you ever noticed a wild clump of daylilies on the side of a highway or back country road? This should give you a clue to the tenacity of the versatile daylily. If you like orange hues, try a hybrid like the more civilized 'Orange Crush' shown here. Or, branch out to many shades of the rainbow, as you can get blooms in all shades except for pure white and true blue. Drought tolerant and nearly pest-free, some consider daylilies to be an essential part of any blooming landscape.
 
Geranium
 Unlike the pelargoniums sometimes referred to as geraniums at the garden center, true geraniums are hardy perennials that will grow and return in the unforgiving climates of Siberia and Alaska. In addition to the delicate flowers, gardeners also appreciate the ornamental foliage of some varieties, which features divided leaves with dark colored bands.
 
Hellebore
A harbinger of spring, the hellebore or lenten rose fills two difficult niches: it thrives year after year in shady spots, and it blooms well before the last frost has kissed the landscape. Old hellebore varieties didn't generate much excitement with their muddy-colored blooms that turned their faces to the soil, but newer cultivars are bigger and brighter. 'Pink Frost' is notable for its large and upward facing flowers.
 
Liatris
You may have noticed the fluffy stems of liatris in your cut flower arrangements, and wondered where the exotic looking flowers came from, but cultivars like 'Floristan' pictured here couldn't be easier to grow. The North American wildflowers still grow on prairies and grasslands, nourishing butterflies and bees with nectar-rich flowers that bloom from the top down. Grow in full sun and average soil in USDA zones 5-9.
 
Pulmonaria plants like this 'Mrs. Moon' cultivar will already be blooming before many perennials have even emerged from the soil. Depending on the variety you plant, you will see petite white, pink, or blue flowers complemented by highly ornamental foliage with interesting white freckles. Give it ample moisture and rich soil, and watch a few plants multiply into a dozen over the seasons in your woodland garden.
 
Peony
Peonies take a few years to get established in the garden, but the wait is worth it. Just ask any bride who pays a premium to include these softball-sized, fragrant blooms in her bouquet. Plant them in well-drained soil, in a sunny spot, and keep the eyes just below soil level to ensure many years of spring blossoms.
 
Sedum
Sedum plants are as tough as nails, and will survive such insults as being rudely yanked from the landscape and replanted by a toddler with a shovel. Leathery, succulent leaves contribute to the vigor of the sedum, retaining moisture during periods of drought. Sedum plants like the popular 'Autumn Joy' or the dramatic 'Purple Emperor' attract pollinators and thrive in clay or sandy soils with no additional fertilizing or spraying.
 
Siberian Iris
Include a selection of these easy perennials in your deer-resistant garden for late spring to early summer blooms. Although not invasive, irises do need dividing every few years to maintain vigor. Share a few rhizomes with friends, and they can enjoy the same three-foot flower spikes in their floral arrangements as you.
taken from https://www.thespruce.com/longest-lived-perennial-flowers-
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net
 

image from Becky's 

           I am enjoying  doing what I have  post.  So have wanted to try this for awhile now.  Here it is with celery and onions.  Seeing them grow is so rewarding especially this time of year.  Larry has snow to move as it snowed all day yesterday and last night.  Didn't get alot, but still makes some for him to move.  Snow for the next 2 days so we will see what happens.  Temperature is at 30 degrees.  So that isn't bad.  Watch the winter driving that you have.  Be careful and safe.  Sounds like Interstate driving yesterday wasn't good with icy and snow covered roads.
 
Everybody needs a food garden. No matter how small your garden and meager your harvest, the fresh food that you produce there will will be tasty and nutritious. It will connect you with the natural world.
 
Okay, maybe you don’t have much or any outdoor space. Or, perhaps it’s not spring and seed packets are hard to find. But you could also start an indoor salad garden by using the produce from your local grocery store!
 
Stumps, Stems, and Roots
 
Begin in the produce aisle of your local supermarket. Toss in a couple of bunches of celery and and couple of heads of Romaine lettuce (or other lettuce attached to an intact base), a few small onions, and several packages of the fresh herbs that you use most: basil, oregano, mint, thyme, sage, rosemary. You’ll want stems 4 to 6 inches long.
 
Head for the organic section to collect a couple of sweet potatoes, a few beets, a few large radishes, and a few unwaxed turnips. Why organic? You’ll want your roots to sprout, and many conventionally grown root vegetables have been sprayed to prevent sprouting.
 
These vegetables comprise your garden starters. The cost is negligible, because you get to eat a lot of what you’ve bought.
 
Gardening Supplies
 
You’ll also need:
•Containers for your plants. Your imagination is the limiting factor here. The only requirements for a good plant container: It must hold soil, drain well, and have contained no toxic or hazardous materials. Coffee cans, plastic buckets, galvanized tubs, all with drainage holes punched into the bottom and sides; clay pots of any size or shape; burlap bags; wooden crates; polypropylene shopping bags; sandbags; window boxes; cut-away soda bottles; a length of PVC pipe with planting holes cut out; pieces of roof gutter with holes drilled in the bottom.
•A bag of sterile potting soil. Don’t use ordinary topsoil. It’s too heavy for indoor plantings and may contain weed seeds, spores of plant diseases, and insect pests.
•Some form of liquid fertilizer. You can find many complete liquid fertilizers at garden centers. I use a commercial product containing a mixture of fish emulsion and seaweed extract. (It’s very smelly, but the smell dissipates within a few hours.) Use any fertilizer according to package directions.
•Sunny windowsills or a full-spectrum fluorescent light fixture or two. Although leafy crops don’t need as much sun as those that flower and fruit, your growing crops will still need a few hours of sunlight each day. Indoor growers have developed some truly ingenious ways to make the most of what light they have.
•A watering can and maybe a plant mister. You can even make your own waterer from a plastic jug. A repurposed spray bottle or one from the dollar store will work fine for misting.
 
Growing salads and soup greens
•Celery from a stump: Just cut the bottom 2 inches from a bunch of celery (refrigerate the stalks for later use) and “plant” it, root side down, in a saucer of water or an inch or two or pot of moist sand or potting soil. Leaves, then tender stalks will slowly emerge from the center. When the stump is well rooted, transplant it into a larger pot. You’ll be able to harvest tender stems and leaves for soups and salads for many months.
•Romaine or other lettuce from a stump: Follow the same procedure as for celery. Pick the outer leaves as they mature, leaving new leaves to grow from the center.
•Clone new basil, sage, mint, thyme, oregano, or rosemary plants: Remove lower leaves from the stems of fresh herbs and set the stems in water. Keep the water fresh. Once your stem has a good set of roots, you can plant it in potting soil in a suitable container. Keep the plants growing in a sunny windowsill or under a full-spectrum fluorescent. Trim “branches” as needed to clone new plants.
•Sweet potato foliage: Unless you often shop at ethnic supermarkets or do a lot of Asian-style cooking, you may not know that sweet potato foliage is edible, tasty, nutritious–and makes a gorgeous, irrepressibly vining houseplant. Note: Don’t try this with regular potatoes, whose sprouts and leaves are poisonous. Slice the sweet potato root in half or leave it whole. Use the toothpick method to suspend your sweet potato in a jar of water with the cut side under water until it begins rooting and sprouting. Each little “eye” above the water level will grow a new slip that you can remove and place in water to root. You can even grow tubers from your rooted slips in a large polypropylene shopping bag or other suitable container if you have enough space.
•For fresh green onions: Cut a bit of the root ends from cooking onions (leaving an inch or so of flesh) or from a bunch of scallions and plant them in a pot of moist growing medium. You can even plant a whole cooking onion that’s begun to sprout. Trim blades for use as the new scallions reach harvestable size.
•To grow beet, radish, or turnip greens: Follow steps similar to those outlined for sweet potatoes. You can use the toothpick-suspension method or plant your cut roots in a large, shallow bowl with water and clean sand or some some small rocks. Remove the largest outer leaves (if any), cut off about a third of the root, and set the flat cut end in the bowl. Once each root grows a healthy set of roots and leaves, plant it in a container of potting soil. As the new plant grows, harvest the outer leaves for salads or cooking; leave the center leaves to grow.
 
Try it yourself and let us know how it goes!
taken from https://www.almanac.com/news/natural-health-home-tips/grow-indoor-salad-garden-stumps-stems-and-roots
till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky's Greenhouse Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net