spring beauty image from Pinterest. Bluebells image from Pinterest Dutchmen Britches image form Minnesotaseasons.com Bloodroot image from blogspot.com trout lily image form Pinterest red Trillium image from Pinterest star flower image from leaves of plants.blogspot.com wood anemone image from Pinterest Hepatica image from Pinterest toothwort image from Pinterest WOW it is warm out all ready. 33 degrees at 9:00 Am with a clear, blue sky. High today of high 50’s. UNBELIEVEABLE. Looks like for the next 7 days warm Normal low is 18 degrees, high of 34 degrees. We will see if this continues or we will have more seasonable temperatures.
I almost don’t want to post this writing about early spring wildflowers. I am hoping they don’t start to come out because we might get some more cold weather. But here they are. Have you been in the woods in the spring and found these? My growing up years, we would go to Uncle Ted’s and look for these wildflowers in his woods. His land was on the bluffs by Lansing and the Mississippi River. Very fond memories… Common Spring-Flowering Ephemerals by Robin Sweetser Go for a walk in the woods to see the first wildflowers! Called “spring ephemerals,” these tiny flowers emerge in early spring and disappear when the tree canopies fill out! They have descriptive names: trillium, bloodroot, Dutchman’s breeches, and Virginia bluebells, to name a few. A sure sign of spring in my area is when the bloodroot blooms. Like other spring-blooming ephemerals, this tiny wildflower makes use of the short time before trees leaf out and block the sun on the woodland ground. They fit most of their above-ground life into a few weeks in April and May, then fade away until next spring. What are Spring Ephemerals? We call these early wildflowers “ephemerals” because most, if not all, of their growth dies back when it starts to get warm. They are perennials which grow from underground corms or rhizomes. They can put on such an early show because they have stored food in their bulbs from the previous year’s growth. Don’t let their small, delicate appearance fool you. These lovely wildflowers are tough. They are perfectly adapted to the harsh growing conditions of early spring, utilizing the high levels of moisture and nutrients in the soil of deciduous forests at this time of year. Moist soil helps moderate the extreme difference between day and night temperatures and by growing low to the ground, they are out of the range of cold, drying winds. Spring-blooming ephemerals bloom for only a few precious weeks; they need to complete most of their life cycle in the early spring before the trees, shrubs, and plants leaf out and take the available light. Since there are not too many flying insects active this early in the spring, many ephemerals are pollinated by specialized beetles or ants. Others have evolved to look or smell like rotting meat to attract any flesh-eating flies that might be out early. Ants not only pollinate some of the plants but also disseminate the seeds. 10 Common Spring-Flowering Ephemerals When you are walking in the woods keep an eye out for some of these delightfully delicate wildflowers and assume the proper attitude of reverence by getting down to their level to observe them up close and personal. 1. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) is a gorgeous native wildflower found in moist woodlands and river flood plains. This ephemeral perennial plant comes up early in the spring. Purplish pink buds open to sky blue flowers with a delicate, sweet fragrance. The tubular flowers are beloved by pollinating bumblebees and other long-tongued bees but are visited as well as by several types of butterflies, moths, and hummingbirds. 2. Dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) look just like white pantaloons hanging upside-down to dry. They are also called soldier’s cap or butterfly banners and are related to bleeding hearts. The upside-down blossoms protect the pollen from wind and rain. Only the female bumblebees with her long tongue, can reach the nectar deep inside the long spurs and pollinate the flower in the process. 3. Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) has pure white flowers with leaves that wrap around the stem and bud, trapping warm air. Bloodroot gets its name from the red sap the leaves, stems, and roots exude when broken. The petals appear before the leaves unfurl and at night they close up to protect the center from rain or frost. 4. Eastern spring beauty (Claytonia virginica). The light pink Spring Beauties below have 5-petaled flowers with dark pink veins and long, succulent leaves. 5. Trout lily (Erythronium americanum) is the earliest blooming lily, bearing small yellow trumpets with recurved petals. The purple splotches on its leaves resemble the markings on a brook trout, giving it its name. 6. Red trillium (Trillium erectum) are all about threes. The plant has three heart-shaped leaves, three large red petals, and three green sepals. This has earned it the name trinity flower, but it goes by many common names including stinking Benjamin for its repulsive odor of rotting flesh meant to attract the flies that pollinate it and wake robin since it usually blooms around the time the robins return. 7. Starflower (Trientalis borealis) is a plant of sevens - seven leaves, seven petals, seven stamens, and even seven seeds in each capsule. These bright white flowers spread by underground runners and will form a nice carpet if undisturbed. 8. Wood anemones (Anemone quinquefolia) have a pliable stem that can survive strong winds. Its white blossoms have no nectar or scent and the plant is wind pollinated giving it the common name windflower. 9. Round-lobed hepatica (Anemone americana) is an early bloomer; its buds have hairs that act as insulation. It is easy to miss because its tiny flowers appear among last year’s withered leaves. The blossoms can be dark violet, white or a range of pastel colors including pink, lavender, and pale blue. Its flowers are self-fertile and don’t need an insect to pollinate them. 10. Cutleaf Toothwort (Cardamine concatenata) is one of the earlier spring wildflowers of moist forests and woods; the name refers to the tooth-like projections on the underground stems (actually leaf scars from the previous seasons growth). The leaves and rhizomes are edible (with a spicy flavor inspiring the common name of pepper root). Enjoy them in their natural surroundings. Never dig them up and try to transplant them into your own garden. Many species, like trout lilies, take upwards of 8 years to flower. Just enjoy a walk in the woods and the chance to see these wildflowers during the few short weeks that they flower. As the name “ephemeral” suggests, their beauty is fleeting. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-spring-ephemerals-first-wildflowers Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty, Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365
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image from familyhandyman.com Good morning, and it is a lovely morning. Temperature at 8:30 Am is at 26 degrees with a high today of 49. We have wispy clouds or cirrus clouds so will have more sunlight come thru. Enjoy. I will work in the office and house this morning, and then go out to the greenhouse this afternoon. I am sure it will be warm in there to work.
Do you have clover in your yard? I need to investigate getting some growing as we have some hives here from Storybook Honey. Here is what to do to have clover back in your yard. How and Why to Grow a Clover Lawn Clover Comeback: Learn All About the Benefits of White Clover by George and Becky Lohmiller At one time, most yards had at least some white clover growing in them. It was a world before chemicals, and clover was part of seed blends because it improved the soil—and the condition of the lawn. Gardeners are beginning to recognize the benefits of clover in lawn grass mixtures—or even as a replacement for grass. Move on from the quest for a perfect lawn of just turf grass. It’s not natural and ends up requiring chemicals. Before World War II and the advent of chemicals, clover was used as a great companion with turf grass. It was added to seed blends, along with fescues, ryegrasses, and Kentucky bluegrass, because it helped grass thrive. Benefits of Clover Being a legume, the clover plant fixes poor soil! Clover has the ability to convert nitrogen into fertilizer using bacteria in its root system, practically eliminating the need for additional fertilization. White clover (Trifolium repens) is the most common clover for lawns. Left uncut, white clover grows 4 to 8 inches tall and produces small white flowers that are often tinged with pink. It’s a rapid spreader that crowds out broadleaf weeds while growing harmoniously with grass. Like white clover, red clover (Trifolium pratense) is native to Europe, but has been naturalized in North America. It produces attractive purple flowers and typically grows taller than white clover (a little too tall compared to lawn grass). Clover is among the first plants to green up and thrive in the spring. It’s an extremely drought-resistant plant and will keep its cool-green color even during the hottest and driest parts of summer. Clover will also thrive in areas that are poorly drained or too shady for a conventional lawn. The flowers not only create a beautiful visual effect but also bring in bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects that prey on garden pests. Honeybees rarely sting when they are away from their hive, but if they make you uncomfortable or you are allergic to bee stings, simply have the lawn mowed more often when clover is in bloom. Or, grow clover on surfaces where there is little activity on the lawn, and the desired result is more aesthetic than functional. Planting Clover You can plant clover by itself for ground cover, but it stands up better to foot traffic when combined with lawn grass. Only 5 to 10% of the weight of tiny clover seed must be mixed with the recommended amount of grass seed to create a thick stand. When adding clover to an existing lawn, first mow it close and remove any thatch to allow the seed to fall to the soil surface. To sow clover alone, mix it with enough sand to facilitate spreading. About 2 ounces of clover is needed for every 1,000 square feet of lawn. Since clover has a low growth habit, it can go without mowing all season long if desired. Or, just mow a couple of times a year to maintain its appearance. Luck of the Clover Finding a four-leaf clover is considered good luck. Surely, it must be because, on average, there is only one of them for every 10,000 clovers with three leaves. But even if you never find a four-leaf specimen, just having clover growing in your lawn will keep it greener longer with minimum care, which we consider to be extremely good luck. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/clover-comeback Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from wallpaper cave Good morning, blue clear sky this Saturday. But the big surprise is the temperature. It is 12 degrees now at 8:16 AM, but at 4:00 AM it was 7 degrees. I missed this temperature being this cold. We should have had the wood stove at the greenhouse going as the waste oil couldn’t keep up. It got cold but no damage. This week little plant plugs come in, so we are going to be watching it closely. Did you guys know it was going to be that cold? We do have wind, so the wind chill makes it feel are you ready for this -4. It is Feb. in Iowa. Stay warm, stay safe.
Everything I know I learned in My Garden by Emilie Barnes Begin early. But it’s never too late to start. If it doesn’t work, try something else. Life is fragile. Protect it. Life is enduring. Trust it. Life is daily. Water it. Weed it. Life is indescribably beautiful. Enjoy it and say thank you. Growth takes time. And while you’re waiting, pull a weed. There’s something for everybody-different blooms for different rooms. Pruning hurts. Pruning helps you grow. Sometimes the tiniest flowers smell the sweetest. To everything there is a season. But know what season you’re in. Dream big. But try not to let ambition turn your joy into drudgery. Grow what you love. The love will keep it growing. You reap what you sow. But there will be surprises. “The lesson I have thoroughly learnt, and wish to pass on to others, is to know the enduring happiness that the love of a garden give.” Gertrude Jekyll Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from Quiet-corner.com Cold morning. The temperature is 20 degrees, cloudy sky and high today only in the 30’s. BUT this is more seasonable, it is ok.
New food for thought…growing lettuce. Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Lettuce by Catherine Boeckmann If you haven’t tasted fresh, homegrown lettuce, you’re missing out. It’s far superior to the store-bought alternative in both taste and vitamin A content. We’ll show you how to sow, plant, care for, and harvest this versatile salad vegetable. Lettuce is quick-growing, fuss-free, and can be grown just about anywhere. Grown for its luscious leaves, there’s a cornucopia of both hearting and loose-leaf varieties to explore. About Lettuce Lettuce needs little introduction. Grown for its luscious leaves, there’s a cornucopia of both hearting and loose-leaf varieties to explore. Lettuces that form dense heads for harvesting whole include creamy butterhead types, upright romaine and cos lettuces, and the classic, crunchy iceberg. Looseleaf lettuces can be harvested whole or a few leaves at a time, ‘cut-and-come-again ’-style. Choose from the classic salad bowl lettuce, handsome oakleaf types, or any number of other colorful leaves that’ll brighten vegetable beds and ornamental borders alike. Lettuce is a cool-season crop growing well in most regions in the spring and fall. This crop is perfect for beginners; it’s easily sown by seed directly in the soil as soon as the ground can be worked. Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount of seeds at a time, staggering the plantings. Lettuces are a great leafy green because they grow quickly, produce for a long time, and are not very demanding if you keep the plants sufficiently watered. Plus, lettuce grows great in raised beds, making it ideal for small spaces. Lettuces are perfect for containers, which can be placed on decks, patios, balconies, and porches. PLANTING Lettuce prefers a location with 5 to 6 hours of sun, but can benefit from afternoon shade when temperatures soar. Soil should be loose, well-draining, and moist but not soggy. In the weeks prior to planting, amend with plenty of compost for added fertility. Or grow lettuces in pots or tubs of potting soil. Lettuce prefers a bright, open position with good air circulation to promote strong, disease-free growth. Lettuce is a cool-season crop, so in hot climates, you may get better results growing it in a cooler, shadier spot, especially as the young plants start out. Either way, lettuces don’t take long to reach maturity, which makes them an excellent choice for growing in between slower-to-establish crops such as corn or leeks. When to Plant Lettuce Soil temperatures between 45°F and 65°F (7°C and 18°C) are ideal. Cold-adapted varieties can survive much lower temperatures. Make the earliest sowings under cover from late winter to grow on in greenhouse or hoop house beds for a super-early harvest. Then, from early spring, it’s time to sow for growing outside. Direct sowing is recommended. Sow seeds in the ground 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost date or as soon as the ground can be worked. Or, to get a head start, start seeds indoors about 1 month before your last spring frost date. Harden off seedlings for 3 days to a week before setting outdoors. If you are buying transplants (small plants) from a garden center or nursery, you may plant between 2 weeks before your last spring frost to 2 weeks after your last spring frost. In most regions, it’s possible to plant another crop of lettuce in the fall or even early winter. See our Planting Calendar for planting dates. Tip: To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in late August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10°F (6°C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three-foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—rotate the straw bale around the garden. How to Plant Lettuce Sowings may be made directly into prepared soil or into module trays of multipurpose potting soil. To sow direct, remove any weeds then rake the soil level to a fine, crumbly texture. Mark out shallow drills, 8 to 12 inches or 20 to 30cm apart, using a stringline as a guide if this helps. Then sow the tiny seeds in clusters—a pinch of seeds every four inches or 10cm. Backfill the seed drills, label with the variety and water. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Stones and large clods of dirt will inhibit germination. Plant seeds 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch deep. Lettuce seeds need light to germinate, so don’t sow them too deep. Seeds may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting (loose-leaf varieties are best for this). When broadcasting, thin 1- to 2-inch tall seedlings for the proper spacing. Spacing between plants depends on the variety: Loose-leaf lettuce: Plant or thin to 4 inches apart. Romaine (cos) and butterhead (loose-head, Bibb, Boston) lettuce: Plant or thin to 8 inches apart. Crisphead (iceberg) lettuce: Plant or thin to 16 inches apart. Set rows of lettuce 12 to 15 inches apart. Sow additional seeds every 2 weeks for a continuous harvest. Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce. Water thoroughly with a mist nozzle at time of transplanting or seeding. For a fall crop, cool the soil in August by moistening it and covering it with a bale of straw. One week later, the soil under the bale should be a few degrees cooler than the rest of the garden and ready to be sown with a 2-foot row of lettuce. Repeat the process every couple of weeks by rotating the straw bale around the garden. As autumn temperatures decline, seed as usual for a fall harvest. GROWING You can help transplants along at the start of the season by covering them with a temporary cloche made from bottomless milk cartons or plastic bottles. These will keep the chill off your seedlings just enough to help them acclimatize. Newly planted lettuces may also be helped with a simple row cover or fleece. Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting with organic alfalfa meal or another slow-release fertilizer to provide a steady stream of nitrogen. Make sure the soil remains moist but not overly wet. It should drain well. Overwatering leads to disease or soft growth. Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime, even in the heat of the day, to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate. Using row covers can also help to keep lettuce from drying out in the sun. An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months. Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of damaging your lettuce plants’ shallow roots. How to Delay Bolting Bolting is a common problem caused by warm temperatures (over 70°F/20°C) or changes in day length. When a lettuce plant bolts, it starts to produce a central stem and seed stalk, and leaves take on a bitter flavor. To delay bolting, cover plants with a shade cloth so that they get filtered light. Be sure to maintain watering throughout the warmest parts of the growing season, too. Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, may reduce bolting in the heat of the summer. cold frame with lettuce Lettuce is a great candidate for cold-frame gardening! RECOMMENDED VARIETIES Some of our favorite varieties include: Crisphead: ’Great Lakes’, ‘Ithaca’, ‘King Crown’, ‘Mission’, ‘Summertime’ Romaine (Cos)/Butterhead: ’Burpee Bibb’, ‘Cosmo Savoy’, ‘Green Towers’, ‘Little Gem’, ‘Paris White Cos’, ‘Parris Island’, ‘Valmaine’ Loose-Leaf: ‘Black Seeded Simpson’, ‘Green Ice’, ‘Ibis’, ‘Lollo Rossa’, ‘Oak Leaf’, ‘Prizehead’, ‘Salad Bowl’, ‘Slobolt’ Red Leaf: ’New Red Fire’, ‘Red Sails’, ‘Ruby Red’ (Not recommended for hot weather areas; the red pigment absorbs more heat.) Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/lettuce Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from My Jewish Learning 2nd post for today. Pastor Wendy shared with us last night at Ash Wed. Service the sound of a Shofar. I have never heard of this before. I wanted to share in memory of our good friend, Ruth Newman because she would have told us all about this Jewish custom.
Shofar, ritual musical instrument, made from the horn of a ram or other animal, used on important Jewish public and religious occasions. In biblical times the shofar sounded the Sabbath, announced the New Moon, and proclaimed the anointing of a new king. This latter custom has been preserved in modern Israel at the swearing in of the president of the state. The Jewish holiday of Yom Kippur is the religion's holiest day of the year. The most important modern use of the shofar in religious ceremonies takes place on Rosh Hashana, when it is sounded in the synagogue to call the Jewish people to a spiritual reawakening as the religious New Year begins on Tishri 1. The shofar can be made to produce sobbing, wailing, and sustained sounds in sequences that are varied strictly according to ritual. The shofar is also sounded on Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement, as a call for repentance and sacrifice and for love of the Torah. Taken from https://www.britannica.com/art/shofar till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell phone 641-903-9365 image from cherryblossomlife.com It is cool out this morning. The temperature is 22 degrees at 8:30 AM and the wind is blowing. So, if feels can you believe this 10 degrees. High today is 37 and it looks like Friday through Sunday it will be cooler out. Above the average but only in the 30’s. Stay warm, stay safe.
How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Carrots by Catherine Boeckmann Everyone enjoys a sweet, crunchy carrot, but many gardeners find them a bit tricky to grow. It’s all in the soil! Take a moment to find out what you need to grow carrots in your garden successfully! Learn how to plant, grow, and harvest home-grown carrots. About Carrots Carrots are a cool-season crop grown in spring. They are an excellent source of vitamin A and add color to a meal. They can be served cooked or raw. This popular vegetable has a natural sweetness—especially the homegrown carrot because the sugar that makes a carrot sweet begins to be replaced by fiber as it ages in the grocery stores. Plus, the home gardener has so many more varieties to grow, from Belgian whites to Purple Dragon to Parisian heirlooms that are round! (Not all carrots are the grocery store shape.) In fact, don’t expect to get perfectly straight ”grocery store” carrots. Your carrots will still taste better, whatever their shape! Carrots are known to be difficult to grow, especially in heavy, compacted soil. However, with a little effort, you can indeed grow carrots! You can learn more in our planting guide below. PLANTING Carrots prefer sunny locations (6 to 10 hours of sun). The soil itself should be free-draining; this is one of the few crops benefiting from sandier soils. You don’t want your soil to be too rich either, or the carrots can’t reach down! If your garden is made of rugged, clay soil, grow carrots in containers or raised beds at least 8 inches to 12 inches high. See our tips on container gardening below! When to Plant Carrots Carrot seeds can be sown about 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date.. Ideally, you want the soil to have dried out and warmed up a little after the winter. Seeds germinate after the soil temperature is at least 40° and germinate best at 55-65°, not exceeding 75°F. High summer temperatures reduce growth, decrease quality, and cause bitter or off-flavors to develop. For a fall harvest, sow seeds in mid-to-late summer—starting about ten weeks before your first fall frost. How to Plant Carrots Prepare the site by tilling to a depth of 10 inches. Make sure there are no rocks, stones, or even soil clumps. Amend soil with compost and 6 inches of sandy topsoil if your soil isn’t loose and airy. We recommend double-digging to be certain. We recommend sowing seeds directly in the garden (or wherever you plan to grow them) rather than transplanting. Carrots do not like to have their roots disturbed. Sow 1/4 inch deep, 2 to 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot apart. Tip: Try to distribute seeds in an even fashion so that seeds don’t grow together. The seeds are pretty tiny, and it’s very easy to sow them too thickly. If you’ve not got the steadiest hand, then a simple tip is to mix the seeds with fine sand to spread the seeds out. You can then sow pinches of your sand-seed mix instead. Then, just cover the seeds over. Keep the soil moist with frequent, shallow watering. For small carrot seeds to germinate, the soil mustn’t form a hard crust on top; covered with a layer of fine sand, vermiculite, or compost to prevent a crust from forming. (If you put your finger in the ground, it should be moist, but not wet, to the middle knuckle.) Carrots are sometimes slow to germinate. They require 14-21 days to emerge, so don’t panic if your carrots don’t appear immediately! Planting radishes with carrots helps minimize the crusting problem and helps you keep track of where the carrot seeds were planted. Sow quick-germinating radish seeds between carrot rows. The radishes will grow quickly, and by the time the carrots really start to grow, they can be harvested. For a continued harvest, plant carrots every four weeks through mid-summer. Carrots in Containers Growing carrots in pots is a great way to customize the perfect growing medium and avoid pests like carrot flies. Pots must be at least 10 to 12 inches deep and wide. A great low-fertility mix is one part sand and one part potting mix. Sow seeds very thinly over the top of a filled pot and then cover them with just a touch more of the mix. Water well, label, and set into a sunny position. Keep everything moist because, unlike those that are in the ground, carrots in containers will be entirely dependent on you for all their needs. Thin the seedlings to a couple of inches apart once they’re up. Then harvest once they’ve reached finger size. GROWING Gently mulch carrots to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from hitting the roots directly. When seedlings are an inch tall with 3 to 4 true leaves, thin so that they stand 3 to 4 inches apart. Snip tops with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the fragile roots of the remaining plants. Ensure carrots receive 1 inch of water per week, either through rain or watering; do not overwater carrots. Weed diligently as carrots do not like struggling against weeks, but be careful not to disturb the young carrots’ roots while doing so. Fertilize 5 to 6 weeks after sowing (We recommend a low-nitrogen fertilizer as excess nitrogen in the soil promotes top, or foliage, growth—not roots.) Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/carrots Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Bleeding heart Love-in-a-mist Love-lies-bleeding Larkspur Alyssum Falling in love poppies Forget-me-not Valentine sunflower Exotic Love Vine Kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate WOW it is sunny, clear blue sky, not much wind and the temperature at 9:00 AM is 36 degrees. High today in the 50’s. rain/Snow maybe tonight and then the temperature will be 30’s for the next 10 days. That is ok. We need more seasonable weather and have these temperatures in April. Happy Valentine’s Day. Interesting article about romantic flowers you can grow in your garden. I bet some of you are growing them all ready. Stay safe and enjoy your day.
Love will blossom along with these romantically named flowers by Robin Sweetser In honor of Valentine’s Day, we had fun finding these 10 flowers with romantic names. Consider adding these flower seeds to your garden, or give your loved ones some special seed packets for a season of long-lasting blooms! ‘Valentine’ sunflower ‘Valentine’ sunflower grows to be 5 feet tall. Its lemony yellow blossoms with chocolate brown centers are excellent for cutting so you’ll have bouquets all summer long to remind you of your growing love. ‘Exotic Love Vine’ aka Spanish Flag (Mina lobata) grows to be 15 feet tall in a good season, an indicator of the great heights to which love can soar. Its multicolored flowers change from yellow to orange to red as they mature. Forget-me-not Forget-me-not (Myosotis spp) is a hardy biennial that carpets the ground in early spring with its delicate pink, white, and blue flowers. According to a German folktale, it got its name when a knight who was picking flowers at a river’s edge fell in the water and was swept away by the current. He yelled, “Forget me not!” as he threw the bouquet to his sweetheart. Falling in love poppies ‘Falling in Love’ shirley poppies have delicate, crepe-papery, 3-inch-wide double flowers in a mix of scarlet, rose, white, and coral. These charmers bloom early and will reseed to keep your love blossoming year after year. Larkspur ‘Lover’s Mix’ larkspur is a classic cut flower with spires in pastel shades of lilac, pink, blue, rose, and white—perfect for bouquets for that special someone. Alyssum ‘Summer Romance’ alyssum is aptly named because you will fall in love with its sweet honey scent and blend of lavender, violet, white, and pink blossoms. Love-lies-bleeding Love-lies-bleeding (Amaranthus caudatus) is an heirloom plant that was a favorite in Victorian gardens. An amaranth, it bears long chenille-like tassels of dark red that cascade down toward the ground in dramatic fashion. It looks great growing over a white picket fence. Kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate (Persicaria orientalis) is another exotic heirloom. With lightly scented, 4-6 inch long rosy pink tassels and heart-shaped leaves, you will find it hard to resist. Blooming from July until frost, it can grow to be 6-7 feet tall in a good year and will keep your passion on display. For a shorter version, look for the cultivar ‘Cerise Pearls’. It grows to be only 4-5 feet tall, keeping the flowers at eye-level. Love-in-a-mist Love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) is another classic flower of the romantic garden that’s also known as “Love Entangle” or “Love-in-a-puzzle” for the way its flowers seem to float in a cloud of finely cut foliage. The blossoms come in many shades of blue, purple, pink, and white with dark centers. After blooming, the handsome seed pods can be dried and used in arrangements. Bleeding heart Of course, we can’t forget the famous bleeding heart. Who doesn’t love the arched sprays of tiny pink hearts that cover plants in early spring? Get passionate about gardening and plant the seeds of love this Valentine’s Day! Taken from https://www.almanac.com/10-romantic-flowers-valentines-day Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 Have you ever grown Lucky Bamboo? I have and it is easy. I will try to get some plants to play with.2/12/2024 image from fnpblog Good morning, looks cooler out this morning as the temperature is at 22 degrees at 7:30 AM. Clear blue sky seeing the sun will be good. It is predicted that Feb for us in Iowa will be mild, which will make winter shorter in time. Then we have March. Valentine’s Day this week, so flowers and plants are in the minds of many. Here is some information on Lucky Bamboo. I had one grown for a long time, but don’t have it now. I think I will look for this plant.
Lucky Bamboo's Many Meanings, Plus Care Tips Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) is a houseplant—not real bamboo! It’s popular because of its ability to grow in low light in the home or office. Learn more about how to care for Lucky Bamboo for years of good health and fortune! What Is Lucky Bamboo? The plant we commonly call “lucky bamboo” isn’t a type of bamboo at all. Despite its appearance, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana or braunii) is actually more closely related to succulents than to bamboo, which is a type of grass. Lucky bamboo is native to Africa, but is now cultivated around the world as a good-luck houseplant. Why is the Plant Called Lucky Bamboo? In Chinese lore, lucky bamboo symbolizes good fortune, and feng shui practitioners use it to attract positive energy. The number of stalks have different meanings: 2 stalks symbolize love or double luck 3 stalks bring three kinds of luck: happiness, long life, and wealth 4 stalks are bad luck; they bring negative energy and are thought to be a death wish! 5 stalks balance 5 areas of health: emotional, spiritual, mental, intuitive, and physical 6 stalks attract prosperity and wealth 7 stalks promote good health 8 stalks are good for success, growth, and fertility 9 stalks bring great luck 10 stalks bestow a complete and perfect life 21 stalks are for great wealth and enduring health How to Start Growing Lucky Bamboo Most people who grow lucky bamboo indoors have the plant in water. Here’s how: Use a layer of pebbles to stabilize the stems of the plant and hold it in place. Add enough water to keep the roots covered. (If it hasn’t grown roots yet, the plant will need at least 3 inches of water.) Distilled or filtered water is best, especially if you have fluoride or chlorine in your tap water. These chemicals can cause the green tips of the leaves to burn and turn brown. The container must have drainage holes; while you water frequently, do not let it sit in water or become waterlogged. A clear container makes it easy to see the roots and check the water level, but it can also cause algae to grow, so you may want to use a colored container. You’ll need to keep raising the water level as the plants grow to keep it above the roots. Lucky Bamboo Care Tips Lucky bamboo is a very easy-going plant that doesn’t require much attention. Follow these tips for success with your plant: Change the water every 7 to 10 days, cleaning the pebbles and container as well. Normally, lucky bamboo will grow fine without any fertilizer, but if you wish, you can give it a small drop of houseplant fertilizer monthly. Since this plant grows in the shade of taller trees in nature, keep it out of direct sunlight. Bright, indirect light is best. If it starts to fade to a pale green it needs more light. Lucky bamboo likes warm temperatures, in the 65° to 90°F range. Caution—this plant is toxic to cats! If you wish, you can transplant lucky bamboo in the soil. If the stalks get too tall, cut them off and start a new plant by rooting the stalks in water. Keep them in a shady area until new roots form, then plant them in soil or pebbles. Tie a gold or red ribbon around the stalks to hold them together and to symbolize good fortune. Young stalks can be trained to curl by using wire to hold them or you can try blocking light on three sides of the plant causing it to grow toward the light. Keep turning as it grows to form the curve. This takes time, but makes for a fun project. Pliable stalks can also be braided or twisted together. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/how-grow-lucky-bamboo Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 image from clipground.com
image from blogspot.com Weather update: When I got up at 4:00 AM this morning, the outdoor temperature was 43 degrees. UNBELEVABLE for Feb in Iowa. High today of 58 tonight a low of 38. This is April weather. It is full blue sky but the wind is blowing and a wind advisory for today. I have the door open in the greenhouse all ready. See what April will bring.
Another article for food for thought. Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Peas by Catherine Boeckmann Use this as guide when to plant peas. When to Plant Peas Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature. Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up. The sweet taste of glorious garden-grown peas is nothing like what you find in grocery stores. They are nature’s candy off the vine! Peas are one of the season’s first crops, planted as soon as the ground can be worked, even if snow falls afterward. About Peas Peas are easy to grow, but their growing period is limited. It’s essential to plant them early enough in spring so they mature while the weather is still cool! (This means planting in most parts of the United States and Canada in February, March, or April.) However, they can also be grown as a fall or winter crop in warmer regions. Peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy their taste as soon as possible! Those peas in grocery stores are often starchy in taste, which you’ll find has no comparison to garden-fresh peas. Three varieties of peas suit most garden and culinary needs: Sweet peas, aka garden peas or English peas (Pisum sativum ssp. sativum), have inedible pods from which the seeds (peas) are taken. Snow peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon) produce edible, flat, stringless pods containing small peas. Snap peas (P. sativum var. macrocarpon ser. cv.) produce thick, edible pods containing large/full-size peas. Great planting companions for peas include: Chives, Mint, Alyssum, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish, Turnip, and Beans. Learn more about Companion Planting. PLANTING Select a sunny location and well-draining soil. Although peas can grow in part shade, they won’t be as sweet or productive as those grown in full sun. Prepare the soil, preferably in the fall, mixing in aged manure and/or compost, and much well—peas like well-draining soil. When to Plant Peas Sow seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date when the soil is cool, or when it is at the desired temperature. Peas planted in cold (40°F) soil will germinate slowly; peas planted in soil that is at least 60°FF (but not more than 85°F) will catch up. Snow will not hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens might. Be prepared to plant again if the first peas don’t make it. Alternatively, try starting your peas in a cold frame. A second round of peas can be planted in the late summer or early fall, approximately 6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost date. Here are some more tips on when to start planting peas. How to Plant Peas Peas are best direct-seeded right in the ground and do not like their roots disturbed. But transplanting is possible if you start seeds in biodegradable pots; you’ll transplant the pot and all into the garden, and the pot will disintegrate. Where spring is long and wet, plant seeds in raised garden beds. To speed germination, soak seeds in water overnight before planting. Sow seeds 1 inch deep (slightly deeper if the soil is dry) and about 2 inches apart. Do not thin. Plant rows 7 inches apart. Regarding crop rotation, do not plant peas in the same place more than once every four years. Like those of other legumes, pea roots fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants. In terms of fertilizer, peas need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen will encourage foliage growth instead of flowers or pods. Learn more about soil amendments. Bush peas can reach 18 to 30 inches tall. Pole types can grow at least 4 to 6 feet tall. Both types benefit from support (especially bush peas above 2 feet and all pole peas). Install thin tree branches or twiggy sticks (pea sticks), trellises, chicken wire, strings, or netting before plants establish their shallow roots. See instructions on how to build trellises and supports for peas. Water to keep the soil moist. If seeds wash out of the soil, poke them back into it. GROWING Water peas sparsely with no more than 1 inch per week, unless the plants are wilting. We don’t want to encourage pea rot. But also do not let the plants dry out. If this happens, no pods will be produced. Gently remove intrusive weeds by hand. If necessary, hoe or cultivate, but carefully avoid disturbing peas’ shallow, fragile roots. Pea leaves turn yellow for several reasons. Often, this is due to the stress of hot weather. Provide partial shade (e.g., row covers) and water properly during the hottest time of day. Fertilizing plants is not usually required if the plants are mulched deeply with grass clippings, shredded leaves, or another biodegradable material. Taken from https://www.almanac.com/plant/peas Till next time this is Becky Litterer, Becky’s Greenhouse, Dougherty Iowa beckmall@netins.net 641-794-3337 cell 641-903-9365 |
AuthorHi! My name is Becky and I am a Master Gardener. I own Becky's Greenhouse in Dougherty, Iowa. Archives
March 2024
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